Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Pecatonica Kits and .54 twists
Date: 01 Feb 2003 03:02:32 EST
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Beaverboy, cabin creek muzzleloading makes some nice guns and
accouterments you might give them a try. They also have a catalog you can
get for a price. Heres there website <A HREF="http://www.cabincreek.net/index.html">Cabin Creek Muzzleloading</A>
About barrel twists usually the bigger the bore the straighter the twist, and
smaller the bore the twist can be tighter...........but i'm not totally
certain on this. For a .54 cal the twist can be 1:48" to a 1:70" range
for round ball i'd chose 1:70"
Sincerely,
Daniel "Mandan" Duncan
AMM#1727
Missouri Valley Party
Missouri/Iowa Brigade
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<BR> Beaverboy, cabin creek muzzleloading makes some nice guns and accouterments you might give them a try. They also have a catalog you can get for a price. Heres there website <A HREF="http://www.cabincreek.net/index.html">Cabin Creek Muzzleloading</A>
<BR>About barrel twists usually the bigger the bore the straighter the twist, and smaller the bore the twist can be tighter...........but i'm not totally certain on this. For a .54 cal the twist can be 1:48" to a 1:70" range for round ball i'd chose 1:70"
<BR> Sincerely,
<BR>
<BR>Daniel "Mandan" Duncan
<BR>AMM#1727
<BR>Missouri Valley Party
<BR>Missouri/Iowa Brigade</FONT></HTML>
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<BR>I would like to add a bit to what Capt. Lahti' told ya. After the hide were dry they were checked one more time to make sure all the grease (fat) was removed when fleshed. Then they are folded in half hire side in stacked with the folded side out alternating the hides so you have a flat on both side of the pile. Then the hides are pressed and tied in to a bail for transporting. Each bail was made to weigh about 80 lb. when completed or as close as you could get with the hides they had. When packing the hide on horse or mule it was important that you had two bails of equal weight to keep the load balanced on the pack animal. To press the hides into a tight bail was important, in the field this was done by weighting down the pile of furs with a mans body weight then tied, when the bail was getting close to being complete or to large for this to work well any more it would take more weight to compress a press would be made in the field using a log as fulcrum or lever to press the bail tight to cut down on the bulk of the bail. The bails were warped with a cover hide of some kind or what ever they had to protect it from rain or moisture beside bugs that was the other danger the hides had to be protected from. When camped in one spot for a given time the hide would be taken out of the bails and aired to make sure they stayed dried. Bails like this could be put in a cache and stored tell Rendezvous.
<BR>Hope this helps ya
<BR>Crazy Cyot
<BR>As for what trappers ate have a look and my web site and read
<BR>Mountaineer Survival Skills ya might get a little more insight to there diets then you have thought of.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#336699" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0">
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Pecatonica Kits and .54 twists
Date: 04 Feb 2003 11:26:47 -0800 (PST)
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After 30 years of shooting flintlocks I have to agree with Mr. Fusco. I too like a slow twist for .54 cal. I recently started shooting an Ed Rayle barrel with round bottom roove rifleing in .54 with a 1/70 twist. It shoots better than any gun I own and I'm shooting 90 grain loads.
ThisOldFox@aol.com wrote:> it was my thoughts that you didnt like alexanders methods of doing things.
Nope, you have him confused with Dr. Sam.
>I thank his book is a darn good primer for a new builder and
> even an old fox can learn new tricks---
I agree. The one thing I found is that he wrote his book over several years
and he contradicts himself in various places. He is also overly technical
with his measurements and drawings. A new builder wouldn't necessarily need
all this info, but Peter makes exact replicas of existing guns, so those
measurements are important in his case.
> to me he is a good writer and i liked his explination of sear and tumbler
> engagement and lock geometry
His is probably the first book out that really explains this. There are many
other little tidbits that haven't been written in any previously published
books, and for that I believe his book is the most comprehensive so far. In
the past, you almost had to have every gunbuilding book available, because
there was always something one author left out, that another author included
in his book. A new builder will learn much from Alexander's book.
Dave Kanger
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<P>After 30 years of shooting flintlocks I have to agree with Mr. Fusco. I too like a slow twist for .54 cal. I recently started shooting an Ed Rayle barrel with round bottom roove rifleing in .54 with a 1/70 twist. It shoots better than any gun I own and I'm shooting 90 grain loads.
<P> <B><I>ThisOldFox@aol.com</I></B> wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">> it was my thoughts that you didnt like alexanders methods of doing things.<BR><BR>Nope, you have him confused with Dr. Sam.<BR><BR>>I thank his book is a darn good primer for a new builder and<BR>> even an old fox can learn new tricks---<BR><BR>I agree. The one thing I found is that he wrote his book over several years <BR>and he contradicts himself in various places. He is also overly technical <BR>with his measurements and drawings. A new builder wouldn't necessarily need <BR>all this info, but Peter makes exact replicas of existing guns, so those <BR>measurements are important in his case.<BR><BR>> to me he is a good writer and i liked his explination of sear and tumbler<BR>> engagement and lock geometry<BR><BR>His is probably the first book out that really explains this. There are many <BR>other little tidbits that haven't been written in any previously published <BR>books, and for that I believe his book is the most comprehensive so far. In <BR>the past, you almost had to have every gunbuilding book available, because <BR>there was always something one author left out, that another author included <BR>in his book. A new builder will learn much from Alexander's book.<BR><BR>Dave Kanger<BR><BR>----------------------<BR>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
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How do you trappers and skinners get rid of the fishy smell from otter and beaver skins? Yupper, just a little green when it comes to these critters.
This is the otter that I picked up last Feb. in S.GA, 60" 40lb rascal. I stretched and fleshed out the skin then worked it soft but stiff enough to use it as possible bag or quiver skin.
Dick James, if you're out there. Hi, haven't talked to you in awhile. Hope all it well.
Frank
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