<DIV>I just read on the internet that the U.S. Navy has ordered all of its ships to fly the Rattlesnake "Don't Tread on Me" flag.....Huzzah !!!! hardtack</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Hello Brothers, As you may know, the A.M.M. is selling David Wrights recently released print "Climbing the Western Slope", published by Gray Stone Press. This is a signed and numbered edition, 995 copies available. I can send anyone a picture of the print and an order form via e-mail, all you have to do is ask. I also have full color brochures available by mail, again for the asking. I sent a letter, order form, and a few brochures to every Brigade Booshway, you can contact yours, too. The prints sell for $165 (including shipping). The A.M.M. gets to keep $50 of this for the Land fund. We can buy them for ourselves, or sell to others. Just make sure the order forms go through me, the Land fund clerk, so that we get our cut. As an incentive to sell to others, Mike Powell (UT) has offered to make a 4 pt. Whitney Capote for whoever sells the most copies of the print by Dec. 31, 2002. So, take a copy of the pic, and some order blanks to your next rendezvous, living history event, etc.... Sell some prints- get a chance to be wearing a custom capote next year- AND help out the Land Fund all at the same time. </DIV>
<DIV> Help me spread the word on this PLEASE. This is a great opportunity for us, thanks to our brother David Wright. </DIV>
<DIV>Let me know if you need more info., brochures, e-mail pic and order form, etc....</DIV>
Mark, I found the following in my files..... Also, I noticed you deleted my
mail re: the virus attached to an email from you to me direct. Did you ever
find out anything more on the subject? Barney
MtMan-List: Blankets / Lanolin
Sender: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com
Reply-to: hist_text@lists.xmission.com
"Wash it as little as possible, preferably by hand. They can be machine
washed but if you want it to last a very long time, dry clean it at the end
of the season and put it away carefully for the summer. A teaspoonful of
hazelnut oil , Almond oil or similar in the final rinse helps restore the
oil to the wool. Moreover, it will smell very nice!"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Mark, I found the following in my files..... Also, I noticed you deleted my mail re: the virus attached to an email from you to me direct. Did you ever find out anything more on the subject? Barney<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<B>MtMan-List: Blankets / Lanolin</B><BR>
Sender: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com<BR>
Reply-to: hist_text@lists.xmission.com<BR>
<BR>
"Wash it as little as possible, preferably by hand. They can be machine<BR>
washed but if you want it to last a very long time, dry clean it at the end<BR>
of the season and put it away carefully for the summer. A teaspoonful of<BR>
hazelnut oil , Almond oil or similar in the final rinse helps restore the<BR>
oil to the wool. Moreover, it will smell very nice!"<BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
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<BR>Your boy has got the same problem that I have when it comes to shooting.
<BR>Being right handed and left eye dominate, as for shooting a gun it has not bothered me, and I don't hold the gun or site it any different then any one else does. But when it comes to shooting a bow it really shows up to a point that is better to start him out shooting it left handed, Is the best advice I can give ya.
<BR>Crazy Cyot </FONT></HTML>
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In a message dated 9/7/2002 11:01:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
GazeingCyot@cs.com writes: start him out shooting it left handed>>
Wynn, I'd have to agree with Cyot; IMO, that will give him a better chance to
do really well.
This would be a good time to go Lefty since the replacement bow you now have
to get for him ;) could be made as a left-hander.
One other thought: This might be a good time to see if he has the rare
advantage of being ambidextrous, and shoot both ways. It would take some
training and practice and patience, but what a cool thing to be able to do.
Pick up a righty or lefty and do as well with either. You gotta get 'em while
they're young.......
Barn
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 9/7/2002 11:01:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time, GazeingCyot@cs.com writes: </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="arial" LANG="0"></B>start him out shooting it left handed>><BR>
<BR>
Wynn, I'd have to agree with Cyot; IMO, that will give him a better chance to do really well.<BR>
<BR>
This would be a good time to go Lefty since the replacement bow you now have to get for him ;) could be made as a left-hander.<BR>
<BR>
One other thought: This might be a good time to see if he has the rare advantage of being ambidextrous, and shoot both ways. It would take some training and practice and patience, but what a cool thing to be able to do. Pick up a righty or lefty and do as well with either. You gotta get 'em while they're young.......<BR>
<BR> When shooting a primitive bow ether shoot the bow flat or cantering it to a bout 45 degrees helps. If this does not help him you could build an arrow rest for him. This is not allowed in most primitive coemption but if you what him to enjoy shooting it ya need to make it so it don't hurt to shoot it. For the slap of the string on his arm I made my self an arm guard out of raw hide.
<BR>Crazy</FONT></HTML>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">He struggles with both eyes open. He can only wink with the one eye and it<BR>
has become a habit already. If I give him a play gun and site down it in<BR>
reverse he looks like he is trying to line it up with his nose not his eye.<BR>
What happens when he holds the play gun left handed? I also had that problem 'cep I'm left handed & right eyed. Learned to shoot left handed, but never got above being just a "fair" shot. THEN, I messed up my left shoulder & had to relearn how to shoot right handed at about 45 years old. TOUGH to do, but I FINALLY managed. I'm a much better shot with dominant eye AND if the need arises, now that left shoulder is back close to normal, I can shoot either hand. Even left handed shooting has improved, but still not quite as good as right handed. Now, I'm going through the same problems with wife 'cuz she's like your son -- right handed & left eyed. It was a battle to get her to remember to shoot left handed, but she's getting better -- & she's now over 50. IF she can do it, your son should have an easier time of it. His habits haven't had 50 years to take a "set" yet! 8) <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have to be careful not to make it to much of a deal or he gets frustrated.<BR>
then I fail him.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">THAT'S the real problem! Remember to use LOTS of positive reinforcements!<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> It is kinda fun to be able to do things ambidextrously. I can throw a lasso<BR>
about the same either hand, not real well but I can catch something<BR>
sometimes and it is fun to impress my nephews rodeo friends by telling them<BR>
to use the other hand.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Besides being able to shoot either hand, I can also weld either hand & it comes in HANDY on the job. My favorite trick is to switch hands in the middle of a pass without breaking arc. When some one's watching & paying attention, they can't believe what they saw. 8)</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Is there anything you can put on a primitive bow to create a ledge so he<BR>
does not have to let the arrow rest on his hand as he shoot or is there a<BR>
better way around it?</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I made arrow rests for both our bows out of pieces of antler tucked (and glued) under brain tan for the grip. While I'm not sure it a a period correct cure, I did use proper materials. Both our bows were hand made recurve self bows & shot nicely with the rests. Never did get wife to switch to left handed archery, so we could shoot each other's bows -- 'till mine broke. 8( Might try a recurve with your son -- they don't bite the arm like a straight bow does. Recurves ARE period -- the Indians called 'em "contrary bows". </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Is there anything you can put on a primitive bow to create a ledge so he<BR>
does not have to let the arrow rest on his hand</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B><BR>
I'm thinking YES, a small ledge could be carved into the edges of the bow itself. Personally I don't see any reason this couldn't be done on both sides to allow for ambidextrous shooting too. Barn</B></FONT></HTML>
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Subject: MtMan-List: looking for..............paul jones
Date: 10 Sep 2002 00:01:49 EDT
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I am hoping that Paul Jones of Clark and Sons will read this and contact me
either on this list or off list....
Frank Sablan
Midland,Texas
heard he has been under the weather hope he is doing fine.......
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I am hoping that Paul Jones of Clark and Sons will read this and contact me either on this list or off list....<BR>
<BR>
Frank Sablan<BR>
Midland,Texas<BR>
<BR>
heard he has been under the weather hope he is doing fine.......</FONT></HTML>
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<BR>When shooting a bow instinctive (without sights) being left eye dominate and shooting right handed. I found to be a real challenge that I never really over came to my satisfaction, granted I was able to make meet with a bow but it really limited my shooting ability. For in stead of just having to know how far up or down I had to hold my point of aim for certain yardage I had to all so hold off to one side for the drift that seemed to happen too. To tell you the truth I got so flustered with it I quit shooting the bow. My best advice is to shoot left handed or do lots and lots of shooting to learn how to hold your point of aim to make up for it.
<BR>see ya down the trail
<BR>Crazy Cyot</FONT></HTML>
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I'm doing research on an article for a major blackpowder publication. If anyone has any info about research documents concerning black powder firearms used by hay's rangers, or by the mexican citizens in Texas in the 1840s, I would appreciate it. I'm particularly interested in the kinds of long guns used by both the texans and the Mexicans. M. Branson
scott mcmahon wrote:Gentlemen,
I'm looking for information regarding the furtrade in the Nations during
the first half of the nineteenth century(specifically 1820-40). I have one
or two books(Fort Gibson and Pioneer Days in the Early Southwest) that cover
the subject but am always looking for something new. Also if anyone has any
information regarding the type of goods stocked at trade houses in the
Nations I would appreciate greatly appreciate it. I look forward to your
replies and suggestions.
Dios, Libertad y Tejas
Cpt. Scott McMahon
S.W. Frontiers Mntd. Ranging Co.
"Hays's Rangers have come, their appearance never to be forgotten. Not any
sort of uniforms, but well mounted and doubly well armed: each man has one
or two Colt's revolvers besides ordinary pistols, a sword, and every man a
rifle....The Mexicans are terribly afraid of them."
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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Yahoo! - We Remember
9-11: A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost
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<P>I'm doing research on an article for a major blackpowder publication. If anyone has any info about research documents concerning black powder firearms used by hay's rangers, or by the mexican citizens in Texas in the 1840s, I would appreciate it. I'm particularly interested in the kinds of long guns used by both the texans and the Mexicans. M. Branson
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Gentlemen,<BR>I'm looking for information regarding the furtrade in the Nations during <BR>the first half of the nineteenth century(specifically 1820-40). I have one <BR>or two books(Fort Gibson and Pioneer Days in the Early Southwest) that cover <BR>the subject but am always looking for something new. Also if anyone has any <BR>information regarding the type of goods stocked at trade houses in the <BR>Nations I would appreciate greatly appreciate it. I look forward to your <BR>replies and suggestions.<BR><BR>Dios, Libertad y Tejas<BR>Cpt. Scott McMahon<BR>S.W. Frontiers Mntd. Ranging Co.<BR><BR>"Hays's Rangers have come, their appearance never to be forgotten. Not any <BR>sort of uniforms, but well mounted and doubly well armed: each man has one <BR>or two Colt's revolvers besides ordinary pistols, a sword, and every man a <BR>rifle....The Mexicans are terribly afraid of them."<BR>General Ethan Allen Hitchcock<BR><BR>_________________________________________________________________<BR>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com<BR><BR><BR>----------------------<BR>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Yahoo! - We Remember<br>
<b>9-11: <a href="http://dir.remember.yahoo.com/tribute">A tribute to the more than 3,000 lives lost</a></b>
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Subject: MtMan-List: Danger to Equines, Hunters, Anglers, Recreationists
Date: 12 Sep 2002 14:08:43 EDT
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A heads-up to those in the West and North regarding WEST NILE VIRUS.... This
just in from ProMedMail, a service of Harvard University Med School and the
CDC:
Because WNV is most serious in horses, veterinarians have worked closely
with livestock owners to make them aware. Likewise, FWP officials are
informing hunters, anglers, and recreationists,
Vermont: Probable First Case of human West Nile Virus Infection: "We have
already confirmed that West Nile virus is in Vermont, both birds and
mosquitoes have tested positive, so it was only a matter of time before a
human case was identified" said Dr. Patsy Tassler, Health Department
epidemiologist.
Montana: The first case of West Nile virus (WNV) in a Montana resident was
announced on Fri 6 Sep 2002 in Sweet Grass County. State Epidemiologist Todd
Damrow: "Although this particular case is imported from another state, we've
known for 2 weeks that the virus has been present in horses in Montana" he
added. "It is only a matter of time before a positive human case is diagnosed
that was obtained in Montana."
Colorado: In Colorado, 19 more horses tested positive for West Nile virus on
Tue 10 Sep 2002, bringing the state-wide equine total to 117. At least 31 of
those horses have died...
California: (CDC) have confirmed that a woman in Los Angeles County,
California,
contracted West Nile virus infection.
Canada:
Ontario: As of Wed 11 Sep 2002, there has been one confirmed human case of
West Nile virus in Ontario;
Manitoba, the virus has been found in geese, ducks, sentinel chickens, an
owl, and horses. There have been no human cases of West Nile virus diagnosed
in this province.
Quebec: As of Fri 6 Sep 2002, a total 77 birds have tested West Nile
virus-positive in 8 districts of Quebec.
Saskatchewan: The total number of confirmed West Nile virus-positive birds is
now 21 collected from 13 localities.
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">A heads-up to those in the West and North regarding WEST NILE VIRUS.... This just in from ProMedMail, a service of Harvard University Med School and the CDC:<BR>
<BR>
<B><U>Because WNV is most serious in horses, veterinarians have worked closely <BR>
with livestock owners to make them aware. Likewise, FWP officials are <BR>
informing hunters, anglers, and recreationists,</B></U><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<B><U>Vermont</B></U>: Probable First Case of human West Nile Virus Infection: "We have already confirmed that West Nile virus is in Vermont, both birds and mosquitoes have tested positive, so it was only a matter of time before a human case was identified" said Dr. Patsy Tassler, Health Department epidemiologist.<BR>
<BR>
<B><U>Montana</B></U>: The first case of West Nile virus (WNV) in a Montana resident was announced on Fri 6 Sep 2002 in Sweet Grass County. State Epidemiologist Todd <BR>
Damrow: "Although this particular case is imported from another state, we've known for 2 weeks that the virus has been present in horses in Montana" he added. "It is only a matter of time before a positive human case is diagnosed that was obtained in Montana." <BR>
<BR>
<B><U>Colorado</B></U>: In Colorado, 19 more horses tested positive for West Nile virus on Tue 10 Sep 2002, bringing the state-wide equine total to 117. At least 31 of those horses have died... <BR>
<BR>
<B><U>California</B></U>: (CDC) have confirmed that a woman in Los Angeles County, California, <BR>
contracted West Nile virus infection. <BR>
<BR>
<B><U>Canada</B></U>:<BR>
<B>Ontario</B>: As of Wed 11 Sep 2002, there has been one confirmed human case of West Nile virus in Ontario;<BR>
<B>Manitoba</B>, the virus has been found in geese, ducks, sentinel chickens, an owl, and horses. There have been no human cases of West Nile virus diagnosed in this province.<BR>
<B>Quebec</B>: As of Fri 6 Sep 2002, a total 77 birds have tested West Nile virus-positive in 8 districts of Quebec.<BR>
<B>Saskatchewan</B>: The total number of confirmed West Nile virus-positive birds is now 21 collected from 13 localities. </FONT></HTML>
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I'm looking for some help re a wool blanket. I have heard that it increases
the warmth quite a bit. I have a CJ Wilde 6 pt. that, although mighty purty,
wasn't as warm last winter as I expected it would/should be.
While CJ wasn't too keen on the idea at all, my question is: what is the
method to safely 'full' it, and what changes to the blanket could be
expected, like shrinkage and the need to restore the oils.
Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>I'm looking for some help re a wool blanket. I have heard that it increases the warmth quite a bit. I have a CJ Wilde 6 pt. that, although mighty purty, wasn't as warm last winter as I expected it would/should be. <BR>
<BR>
While CJ wasn't too keen on the idea at all, my question is: what is the method to safely 'full' it, and what changes to the blanket could be expected, like shrinkage and the need to restore the oils.<BR>
<BR>
Barney</B></FONT></HTML>
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I have heard of fulling but cant bring myself to wash a wool blanket, especially a wilde, but the following came off the blue heron mercantile web site....hope it helps<BR>
<P ALIGN=LEFT></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Goudy Old Style" LANG="0"><B>To tighten the weave, thicken the nap, and improve the efficiency of your wool blanket, wash once or twice in warm water without detergent and drip-dry, using Wool-ite to avoid loosing some of the lanolin in the wool which acts as waterproofing. Some marginal shrinkage will occur, (approx. 10%) but the slightly smaller blanket size is offset by it's increased insulating ability. </B><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</P></P></FONT></HTML>
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does anyone have the address to R M Felts. looking for double/triple smoke
bacon. something i can pack that doesnt need refrigeration....
frank sablan
midland,texas
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">does anyone have the address to R M Felts. looking for double/triple smoke bacon. something i can pack that doesnt need refrigeration....<BR>
<BR>
frank sablan<BR>
midland,texas</FONT></HTML>
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<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF">does anyone have the address to R M Felts. looking for double/triple smoke bacon. something i can pack that doesnt need refrigeration....<BR><BR>frank sablan<BR>midland,texas</FONT> </FONT>
Frank, It sounds like I should try Felts, and will on the next call, but I do
use a couple of other places that have some tasty Bacon as well as double
smoked Hams, Beef, Turkey, Sausage and jerky products.
They are <A HREF="http://www.hillbillysmokehouse.com/">The Hillbilly Smokehouse</A> located in the Ozarks, and
Meadow Farms <A HREF="http://www.smokedmeats.com/">Mahogany Smoked Meats and Jerky</A> located in Southern California.
Meadow Farms claims to be the last smokehouse in the country using only
Mahagony to smoke their meats and it does impart a different, IMO delicious
flavor. Pricey, but oh so good!
Also, thanks for the lead to Blue Heron; they had exactly the info I was
looking for.
Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>Frank, It sounds like I should try Felts, and will on the next call, but I do use a couple of other places that have some tasty Bacon as well as double smoked Hams, Beef, Turkey, Sausage and jerky products.<BR>
<BR>
They are <A HREF="http://www.hillbillysmokehouse.com/">The Hillbilly Smokehouse</A></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"> located in the Ozarks, and<BR>
Meadow Farms <A HREF="http://www.smokedmeats.com/">Mahogany Smoked Meats and Jerky</A></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"> located in Southern California. Meadow Farms claims to be the last smokehouse in the country using only Mahagony to smoke their meats and it does impart a different, IMO delicious flavor. Pricey, but oh so good!<BR>
<BR>
Also, thanks for the lead to Blue Heron; they had exactly the info I was looking for.<BR>
<BR>
Barney </B></FONT></HTML>
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thanks everyone for your info on bacon sources, I will consider all
sources......
BTW------ I have made several linen haversacks with hemp straps, they are a
bit loose....sagging and I would like a recipe for waterproofing with linseed
oil, I know that pure linseed oil takes time to dry, what can be mixed it
and what portions should it be mixed with for it to dry in half the time..?
hope all this makes sense.
Frank Sablan
Midland,Texas
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">thanks everyone for your info on bacon sources, I will consider all sources......<BR>
<BR>
BTW------ I have made several linen haversacks with hemp straps, they are a bit loose....sagging and I would like a recipe for waterproofing with linseed oil, I know that pure linseed oil takes time to dry, what can be mixed it and what portions should it be mixed with for it to dry in half the time..? hope all this makes sense.<BR>
<BR>
Frank Sablan<BR>
Midland,Texas</FONT></HTML>
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Just returned from an 8 day cow elk hunt in a traditional muzzleloader unit in Idaho. One member of our party made meat with his smoothbore. He made the shot at about 65 yards up hill. Bullet entered and broke a rib, passed through a lung and then through the spine. That cow dropped like a ton of bricks and
rolled almost down to the creek. My son finished her off with a head shot from his flinter. We in total saw 14 cows, 2 bulls, 2 bears (one of which got some lead flung at it, and several grouse. Some of the grouse made it home with me. My son and I are returning this weekend for 4 more days of cow hunting.
Dennis Knapp aka Sticher
Southern Idaho
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> Does anyone make a good historically accurate flintlock rifle suitable for
> use by a 10 year old, which is decent enough to be a life-long utilitarian
> rifle?
>
> Thanks!
> Pete
Pete, Check out Traditions. They make a youth model .50 cal flintlock. Price is right too at about $140-150. Both my boys use them. My oldest killed his first deer last year with his.
Dennis Knapp aka Sticher
Southern Idaho
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Sir: I would like information about obtaining a booth space to sell flintlock rifles at Ft. Bridger next year. Please contact me at my own e-mail address: d49_mbranson@yahoo.com
Allen Hall wrote:Hello,
I thought maybe someone in the Fort Bridger area would be interested in this.
Allen
The very existance of the rendezvous as we know it will be discussed at the
public meeting. It will be held at the Lyman Town Hall 10:00 a.m. on the
28th of september. 100 E Sage. It is very important for every one to be
there. Please come and express what you liked or didn't like about the 2002
rendezvous.
Thanks Kash
(2002 Rendezvous Booshway)
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Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
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<P>Sir: I would like information about obtaining a booth space to sell flintlock rifles at Ft. Bridger next year. Please contact me at my own e-mail address: d49_mbranson@yahoo.com
<P> <B><I>Allen Hall <ALLENHALL@SRV.NET></I></B>wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">Hello,<BR><BR>I thought maybe someone in the Fort Bridger area would be interested in this.<BR><BR>Allen<BR><BR>The very existance of the rendezvous as we know it will be discussed at the<BR>public meeting. It will be held at the Lyman Town Hall 10:00 a.m. on the<BR>28th of september. 100 E Sage. It is very important for every one to be<BR>there. Please come and express what you liked or didn't like about the 2002<BR>rendezvous. <BR><BR>Thanks Kash<BR>(2002 Rendezvous Booshway)<BR><BR><BR><BR>----------------------<BR>hist_text list info: http://www.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/maillist.html</BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
My two cents experience with commerical or braintan is to stretch it. I have a buddy who has used commerical braintan and he stretched it and smoked it as well. If you dont mind what are you planning on making?<BR>
<BR>
Frank Sablan<BR>
Midland,Texas</FONT></HTML>
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In my humble opinion both commercial and braintan leather will stretch if
sewn directly into a garment. Example, I made a pair of commerical elkskin
pants and didnt stretch the leather, well after wearing them a while, sitting
and bending, I looked as if I was carrying a load in my backside and my knees
were stretched as if carrying grapefruits. I had to readjust them and sew
again. I just recently finished a pair of braintan dropfront breeches and
stretched and stretched the hides and the finished product is still
stretching abit esp. the waist band, should have but a canvas band inside the
waistband to prevent stretching but I live and learn. again this is just my
two cents worth, it has worked for me. On smoking the hides sew the hide
into a tube and attach a small canvas tube (this will be over the smoke
source) use real punky wood and smoke away. Hope all this helps
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In my humble opinion both commercial and braintan leather will stretch if sewn directly into a garment. Example, I made a pair of commerical elkskin pants and didnt stretch the leather, well after wearing them a while, sitting and bending, I looked as if I was carrying a load in my backside and my knees were stretched as if carrying grapefruits. I had to readjust them and sew again. I just recently finished a pair of braintan dropfront breeches and stretched and stretched the hides and the finished product is still stretching abit esp. the waist band, should have but a canvas band inside the waistband to prevent stretching but I live and learn. again this is just my two cents worth, it has worked for me. On smoking the hides sew the hide into a tube and attach a small canvas tube (this will be over the smoke source) use real punky wood and smoke away. Hope all this helps</FONT></HTML>
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Sorry to say Mike Powell and I work on this movie and I would not walk across
the street to see it my self. We put together the Shoshoni and Nezperce
villages for it. With there lack of wanting to portray the Villages as they
were described by Lewis and Clark. Their lack and willingness to even give a
clear picture of the history of these people and what the Shoshoni were going
threw at the time when they helped the expedition. To say the least I was
very let down to think this movie was produced by National Geographic (I
excepted better from them.) So I am not surprised that the rest of the movie
was of no historic value too.
Better luck next time
Crazy Cyot
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Sorry to say Mike Powell and I work on this movie and I would not walk across the street to see it my self. We put together the Shoshoni and Nezperce villages for it. With there lack of wanting to portray the Villages as they were described by Lewis and Clark. Their lack and willingness to even give a clear picture of the history of these people and what the Shoshoni were going threw at the time when they helped the expedition. To say the least I was very let down to think this movie was produced by National Geographic (I excepted better from them.) So I am not surprised that the rest of the movie was of no historic value too.
<BR>
<BR>Better luck next time
<BR>Crazy Cyot</FONT></HTML>
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Leather stretches it's just the nature of the stuff, it's made of skin and
skin stretches if it didn't when ya get fatter it would not fit ya any more.
As for puree stretching it may help some but it's still going to stretch were
it gets stress. Putting canvas in the waste bad is the best way to keep your
breeches up and fitting you. It does not take long for leather to stretch,
you could not ware them out fast enough to keep this from happening. As for
them stretching to where ya, I looked as if ya was carrying a load in your
backside and your knees were stretched as if carrying grapefruits.
That's the way pantaloons and breeches looked they were made baggy in the
seat that was the stile of them and if they are made of leather they will
stretch in the knees no stopping it. As for lining the pants leather is warm
enough to ware without doing this, I wouldn't. Make them and live in them and
they will look like you have.
See ya down the trail
Crazy Cyot
>
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2> Leather stretches it's just the nature of the stuff, it's made of skin and skin stretches if it didn't when ya get fatter it would not fit ya any more. As for puree stretching it may help some but it's still going to stretch were it gets stress. Putting canvas in the waste bad is the best way to keep your breeches up and fitting you. It does not take long for leather to stretch, you could not ware them out fast enough to keep this from happening. As for them stretching to where ya, I looked as if ya was carrying a load in your backside and your knees were stretched as if carrying grapefruits.
<BR>That's the way pantaloons and breeches looked they were made baggy in the seat that was the stile of them and if they are made of leather they will stretch in the knees no stopping it. As for lining the pants leather is warm enough to ware without doing this, I wouldn't. Make them and live in them and they will look like you have.
IMO if you line the seat and/or legs of braintanned britches you will lose
some if not all of the 'breatheablilty' of the material; one of it's
outstanding properties. Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>IMO if you line the seat and/or legs of braintanned britches you will lose some if not all of the 'breatheablilty' of the material; one of it's outstanding properties. Barney</B></FONT></HTML>
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I agree, I was just stating that if one stretches leather it is not as likely
to stretch as much. I have made a pair of braintan leggins and stretched
them and had sewn them skin tight, now a few years later, they have stretched
and fit great.
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I agree, I was just stating that if one stretches leather it is not as likely to stretch as much. I have made a pair of braintan leggins and stretched them and had sewn them skin tight, now a few years later, they have stretched and fit great.</FONT></HTML>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">stretched them and had sewn them skin tight, now a few years later, they have stretched and fit great</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B><BR>
Bingo! It's some work stretching, but well worth the effort. And then no need for lining or that 'load in your pants' look! <G> Barn</B></FONT></HTML>
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<DIV>To whoever was asking about a kids rifle. I just saw this on the on-line round robin:</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Marvis Chance </STRONG> - September 20, 2002<BR><A href="mailto:mrcvcoa1@hotmail.com">mrcvcoa1@hotmail.com</A><BR>FOR SALE JUST IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS: Dixie Super Cub 50 cal. flint rifle. Just the thing for a child, the lady in your life, or to use as an excellent brush gun. This is just the ticket for Christmas to bring that smile to the face of someone who is special . 28 1/2" octagon barrel, 7/8" across the flats. Double set triggers, and the lock is a great sparker. Overall 44". The wood looks to be European walnut, the the brass furniture is engraved, includes nose cap, thimbles, buttplate, toe plate,trigger guard and patchbox. It has a satin oil finish and weighs about 7 lbs. Looks brand new. Asking $250.00 </DIV>
I almost forgot, Fredricksburg,Texas has a place called Opa's meats, most
grocery stores carry Opa's sausage, I have purchased dried sausage from them,
I have had some at least two years old hanging in the garage, and still
good. check it out Opa's smoked meats-------><A HREF="http://www.opassmokedmeats.net/">Home</A>
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I almost forgot, Fredricksburg,Texas has a place called Opa's meats, most grocery stores carry Opa's sausage, I have purchased dried sausage from them, I have had some at least two years old hanging in the garage, and still good. check it out Opa's smoked meats-------><A HREF="http://www.opassmokedmeats.net/">Home</A> </FONT></HTML>
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Returned to work today after another long weekend of elk hunting in Idaho. My son, Alan, age 14, killed his first elk with his Traditions .50 cal flintlock. He made a great shot that took out the liver and heart. It was about a 30-35 yard shot. We had the pack goats with us and were able to make it out in one trip. This will be a mighty fine eatin' elk as it was a cow calf. Had the hangin' tenders last night for dinner. Life just don't get any better than that!!! My younger son was with us on the trip so got to expereince the thrill of it all too. He's ready for next year NOW when he can hnunt too.
Regards,
Dennis Knapp aka Sticher
Southern Idaho
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<DIV>Hi guys, I've been busy lately doing some tanning. I recently finished a couple of elk hides and a local buck. I have another buck skin soaking in a lime solution, waiting to be scraped. The elks were a bi*ch.... After a lot of work I still had some stiff areas, and decided these would be good for bow case, rifle case, etc.... I still had enough beautiful, soft leather for a pair of britches, which I am stitching up now. (after two complete brain tanning cycles). After talking to Oliver McCloskey, I learned that the bigger hides have to be brained again and again, etc... to get completely soft. I have been refering to <A href="http://www.braintan.com">www.braintan.com</A> periodically also. There is a good article there on the bigger hides, and it says the same thing. That's the reason for this post. If you aren't familiar with <A href="http://www.braintan.com">www.braintan.com</A>, you should be....lots of good info there. I bought several hides from Oliver McCloskey to make a coat. I'm still trying to decide on a pattern for that. If you are considering buying brain tanned hides, you ought to check out Oliver. He does great work, and has very fair prices. He advertises in Muzzle Loader Magazine, or if you need info. on him, just ask me. I'm wearing myself out doing these hides, but am learning a lot. I've done several hides before, but each new experience teaches me something new. I recently became aquainted with a rancher that harvests many deer a year. He is giving me the hides, because I'm going to teach him, and his son, the fundamentals of brain tanning. I ordered a new scraper from braintan.com, because I'll need two to help out these fellows this weekend. I ordered it Sunday night (online) and it was on my porch this afternoon (Wed.). Great service. If anyone has any great labor saving techniques on brain tanning, I'd love to hear them. Yfab, hardtack </DIV>
Hey Randal, I have a few minutes, so I'll be quick....if you don't
already know, storing hides can be a pain in the butt....I've solved
this.....get to your local feed store, or Ag store, and buy the 50 lbs. bags
of loose grainular salt...we call it Feed Salt...the loose kind....and scrape
your hides REAL CLEAN...getting ALL the fat and meet off...be sure to wash,
or rinse the hide off real good, on both sides, getting all the blood and
garbage OFF, trim it up, make it clean, REAL CLEAN...lay it fur side down,
spread it flat, and pour on the salt...I'm liberal with the salt, about a
half inch thick, spread it ALL OVER with my hand, all the way to the
edges.....then I fold one side to the middle, carefully, then the other side
to the outter opposite edge, and then carefully roll it up like a sleeping
bag, being careful not to spill out a lot of the salt on the ends.....then,
place this hide in a GUNNY SACK....put the gunny sack inside those big blue
30gal plastic trash cans, with the lid...tie the gunny sack shut...I twist it
tight, then tie it off with a leather thong, buckskin of course......before
hand, drill a few holes in the bottom of the barrel, and set the barrel on a
plastic milk crate, letting the salt water drain out of the gunny sack and
barrel.....it will weep for a few days, and then stop.....
And here's the BIG DEAL , when you take them out, TWO YEARS later,
the hair just falls right off...the mucus has broken down, and I can just
spray the hair off with water, and wipe it off with my hands....MUCH
EASIER..also, the salt washes right off and the hide is still soft and
pliable.....LOOKS LIKE IT JUST CAME OFF THE DEER...........THEN, I can soak
the hide in COSTIC SODA.....or commonly called....Sodium Hydroxide.....which
does an excellent job....be careful, it will burn you in the grainular
form......THE BENEFIT...once the hair is out BEFORE you go to soak the hide,
the solution has an easier time GETTING INTO THE HAIR FOLECUL HOLE.......got
it? The little round peg is out of the whole, allowing more solution in, and
easier...doing a better job of getting the mucus out...which is already
broken down, over time........THEY COME OUT GREEEEEAAAAATTTTT!
Scrap super clean....SALT HEAVY....roll neatly....place in gunny sack,
place sack in big plastic barrel with holes in bottom, on top of a milk crate
to weep, and not over concrete, the salt water will destroy the concrete over
time, place over dirt, stores for A VERY, VERY, VERY LONG TIME THIS WAY, and
comes out just fine....in the super hot summer, mid summer, I'll even spray
down the gunny sack with water, to add moisture..leaving the sack in the
barrel, no need to take it out, no josseling the sack around knocking out
salt.....the gunny sack soaks up the water...the hides, on the outter parts
of the sack get a little water, but nothing major...middle of the sack, won't
get super wet, just moist....the moisture, helps to keep moisture inside the
hides......the deer hair, becomes a natural blanket for the leather.....VERY
COOL SYSTEM.....BUT IT TOOK ME THREE YEARS TO FIGURE THIS OUT.....
Of course, you have to be willing to "build up" some hides, so that
you can let them set for the two years, minimum......It's taken me an
additional two years to learn that the hair just falls right out...the mucus
has broken down so well, that it loses it's grip on the hair foleculs, and
you can wipe it, or pull it, or spray it right out...and what doesn't come
out, which is very, very little, will just get soaked off.
Storage problem solved! I hated having to scrap off the hair after
the soak, this puts me on the beam twice.....I go to the beam only once, to
get all the fat and meat off..having to scrap that garbage off is the most
physical part of the process, except pulling soft, which we enjoy doing,
right?. I only want to be on the beam once per hide.
Recap: I scrap all fat and meat off...wash or spray the hide
CLEAN...salt heavy...fold in sides, roll neatly, place in gunny sack, place
sack in big plastic barrel, set barrel on milk crate, making sure the gunny
sack is tied shut.
Benefit; NO SMELL, NO BUGS, NO MESS, NEAT, STORES FOR YEARS, WON'T DRY
OUT, SALT WASHES/DISOLVES OFF, HAIR FALLS OUT AFTER TWO YEARS, NO SECOND TRIP
TO THE BEAM, WON'T HURT THE HIDE TO BE ON SALT FOR A LONG TIME, NO MEAT OR
FAT = NO ROTTING HIDE, and won't draw the bugs, it's the fat and meat that
rot, not the leather.
That's enough.....my storage troubles are over....thought you might
want to know the same....I don't have enough freezer space to store green
hides...and we have TWO freezers...that space is for MEAT!!!!
Any questions, give me a shout...I have other tips, but I'm
tired...see ya, Ken
ps. when I pull out a hide to start the process, I carefully unroll
the hide over my big salt barrel, in order to save any excess salt.....it's
cheap, I know, but I'm too tight to just throw good salt on the ground...Ha!
Let me know what you think...it works great for me...I'm VERY, VERY happy
now.....we've lost TOO MANY hides, only because we didn't know how to store
them right.
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<BR> Hey Randal, I have a few minutes, so I'll be quick....if you don't already know, storing hides can be a pain in the butt....I've solved this.....get to your local feed store, or Ag store, and buy the 50 lbs. bags of loose grainular salt...we call it Feed Salt...the loose kind....and scrape your hides REAL CLEAN...getting ALL the fat and meet off...be sure to wash, or rinse the hide off real good, on both sides, getting all the blood and garbage OFF, trim it up, make it clean, REAL CLEAN...lay it fur side down, spread it flat, and pour on the salt...I'm liberal with the salt, about a half inch thick, spread it ALL OVER with my hand, all the way to the edges.....then I fold one side to the middle, carefully, then the other side to the outter opposite edge, and then carefully roll it up like a sleeping bag, being careful not to spill out a lot of the salt on the ends.....then, place this hide in a GUNNY SACK....put the gunny sack inside those big blue 30gal plastic trash cans, with the lid...tie the gunny sack shut...I twist it tight, then tie it off with a leather thong, buckskin of course......before hand, drill a few holes in the bottom of the barrel, and set the barrel on a plastic milk crate, letting the salt water drain out of the gunny sack and barrel.....it will weep for a few days, and then stop.....
<BR> And here's the BIG DEAL , when you take them out, TWO YEARS later, the hair just falls right off...the mucus has broken down, and I can just spray the hair off with water, and wipe it off with my hands....MUCH EASIER..also, the salt washes right off and the hide is still soft and pliable.....LOOKS LIKE IT JUST CAME OFF THE DEER...........THEN, I can soak the hide in COSTIC SODA.....or commonly called....Sodium Hydroxide.....which does an excellent job....be careful, it will burn you in the grainular form......THE BENEFIT...once the hair is out BEFORE you go to soak the hide, the solution has an easier time GETTING INTO THE HAIR FOLECUL HOLE.......got it? The little round peg is out of the whole, allowing more solution in, and easier...doing a better job of getting the mucus out...which is already broken down, over time........THEY COME OUT GREEEEEAAAAATTTTT!
<BR> Scrap super clean....SALT HEAVY....roll neatly....place in gunny sack, place sack in big plastic barrel with holes in bottom, on top of a milk crate to weep, and not over concrete, the salt water will destroy the concrete over time, place over dirt, stores for A VERY, VERY, VERY LONG TIME THIS WAY, and comes out just fine....in the super hot summer, mid summer, I'll even spray down the gunny sack with water, to add moisture..leaving the sack in the barrel, no need to take it out, no josseling the sack around knocking out salt.....the gunny sack soaks up the water...the hides, on the outter parts of the sack get a little water, but nothing major...middle of the sack, won't get super wet, just moist....the moisture, helps to keep moisture inside the hides......the deer hair, becomes a natural blanket for the leather.....VERY COOL SYSTEM.....BUT IT TOOK ME THREE YEARS TO FIGURE THIS OUT.....
<BR> Of course, you have to be willing to "build up" some hides, so that you can let them set for the two years, minimum......It's taken me an additional two years to learn that the hair just falls right out...the mucus has broken down so well, that it loses it's grip on the hair foleculs, and you can wipe it, or pull it, or spray it right out...and what doesn't come out, which is very, very little, will just get soaked off.
<BR> Storage problem solved! I hated having to scrap off the hair after the soak, this puts me on the beam twice.....I go to the beam only once, to get all the fat and meat off..having to scrap that garbage off is the most physical part of the process, except pulling soft, which we enjoy doing, right?. I only want to be on the beam once per hide.
<BR> Recap: I scrap all fat and meat off...wash or spray the hide CLEAN...salt heavy...fold in sides, roll neatly, place in gunny sack, place sack in big plastic barrel, set barrel on milk crate, making sure the gunny sack is tied shut.
<BR> Benefit; NO SMELL, NO BUGS, NO MESS, NEAT, STORES FOR YEARS, WON'T DRY OUT, SALT WASHES/DISOLVES OFF, HAIR FALLS OUT AFTER TWO YEARS, NO SECOND TRIP TO THE BEAM, WON'T HURT THE HIDE TO BE ON SALT FOR A LONG TIME, NO MEAT OR FAT = NO ROTTING HIDE, and won't draw the bugs, it's the fat and meat that rot, not the leather.
<BR> That's enough.....my storage troubles are over....thought you might want to know the same....I don't have enough freezer space to store green hides...and we have TWO freezers...that space is for MEAT!!!!
<BR> Any questions, give me a shout...I have other tips, but I'm tired...see ya, Ken
<BR> ps. when I pull out a hide to start the process, I carefully unroll the hide over my big salt barrel, in order to save any excess salt.....it's cheap, I know, but I'm too tight to just throw good salt on the ground...Ha! Let me know what you think...it works great for me...I'm VERY, VERY happy now.....we've lost TOO MANY hides, only because we didn't know how to store them right.</FONT></HTML>
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John, You might check out an outfit in Henrietta, Texas called 'Buffalo
Runner'. They have done the research and produce what are, IMO, a well
constructed, comfortable and durable boot, available in a couple of styles,
in black and brown, and with walking or riding heels.
I know there is also a bootmaker on the list, but can't remember who it is,
so maybe someone can shout it out....
This may be controversial, but one thing I found helpful when 'breaking in'
new boots of original (2 piece) design is to saturate a pair of thick socks
in rubbing alcohol and slip into the boots, then wear them for a couple of
hours. The ones I have done come out form fitted to your foot, and it seems
to eliminate a lot of the slippage/blisters/etc people experience during
normal break-in.
Welcome to the fold. Hope we have the chance to share a camp one day. Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>John, You might check out an outfit in Henrietta, Texas called 'Buffalo Runner'. They have done the research and produce what are, IMO, a well constructed, comfortable and durable boot, available in a couple of styles, in black and brown, and with walking or riding heels. <BR>
<BR>
I know there is also a bootmaker on the list, but can't remember who it is, so maybe someone can shout it out....<BR>
<BR>
This may be controversial, but one thing I found helpful when 'breaking in' new boots of original (2 piece) design is to saturate a pair of thick socks in rubbing alcohol and slip into the boots, then wear them for a couple of hours. The ones I have done come out form fitted to your foot, and it seems to eliminate a lot of the slippage/blisters/etc people experience during normal break-in. <BR>
<BR>
Welcome to the fold. Hope we have the chance to share a camp one day. Barney </B></FONT></HTML>
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Subject: Re: MtMan-List: was Boots now Occupations
Date: 27 Sep 2002 19:06:36 EDT
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About Buffalo Runner boots, I don't know about their products today; glad
someone spoke up cuz there's nothing worse than wasting money on the wrong
stuff. Some years back I got a style they called IIRC the Buffalo Runner, a
2-piece, square toed stovepipe they claimed was PC, but we all know that
story <G>! I might have to look up Bob Schmidt, or maybe he can answer the
question for us....
As to occupations, there were lots of them in the area but many of them never
traveled to a Rendezvous, and that affects how 'correct' you can be. Another
part of getting your persona right is not only WHAT you did but WHEN you did
it.
There's lots of choices from early Trappers and Traders to Trail Merchants
and Texas Rangers. Later there were US Army mucky-mucks, Government Agents
and the high powered familys, just to name a few.
All before 1840.
Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">About Buffalo Runner boots, I don't know about their products today; glad someone spoke up cuz there's nothing worse than wasting money on the wrong stuff. Some years back I got a style they called IIRC the Buffalo Runner, a 2-piece, square toed stovepipe they claimed was PC, but we all know that story <G>! I might have to look up Bob Schmidt, or maybe he can answer the question for us....<BR>
<BR>
As to occupations, there were lots of them in the area but many of them never traveled to a Rendezvous, and that affects <I>how</I> 'correct' you can be. Another part of getting your persona right is not only WHAT you did but WHEN you did it. <BR>
<BR>
There's lots of choices from early Trappers and Traders to Trail Merchants and Texas Rangers. Later there were US Army mucky-mucks, Government Agents and the high powered familys, just to name a few.<BR>
<BR>
All before 1840. <BR>
<BR>
Barney<BR>
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<DIV>For those of you who have not seen this:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>This one is a genuine hoot. It was an actual letter sent to a man named Ryan DeVries by the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality, State of Michigan. <BR>Wait till you read this guy's response.......but read the letter before you get to the response........</FONT><FONT lang=0 face=Arial color=#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"> <BR>Mr. Ryan DeVries <BR>2088 Dagget <BR>Pierson, MI 49339 <BR>SUBJECT: DEQ File No. 97-59-0023; T11N; R10W, Sec. 20; Montcalm County <BR>Dear Mr. DeVries: <BR>It has come to the attention of the Department of Environmental Quality that there has been recent unauthorized activity on the above referenced parcel of property. You have been certified as the legal landowner and/or contractor who did the following unauthorized activity: <BR>Construction and maintenance of two wood debris dams across the outlet stream of Spring Pond. A permit must be issued prior to the start of this type of activity. A review of the Department's files shows that no permits have been issued. Therefore, the Department has determined that this activity is in violation of Part 301, Inland Lakes and Streams, of the Natural Resource and Environmental Protection Act, Act 451 of the Public Acts of 1994, being sections 324.30101 to 324.30113 of the Michigan Compiled Laws, annotated. <BR>The Department has been informed that one or both of the dams partially failed during a recent rain event, causing debris and flooding at downstream locations. We find that dams of this nature are inherently hazardous and cannot be permitted. The Department therefore orders you to cease and desist all activities at this location, and to restore the stream to a free-flow condition by removing all wood and brush forming the dams from the stream channel. All restoration work shall be completed no later than January 31, 2002. <BR>Please notify this office when the restoration has been completed so that a follow-up site inspection may be scheduled by our staff. Failure to comply with this request or any further unauthorized activity on the site may result in this case being referred for elevated enforcement action. <BR>We anticipate and would appreciate your full cooperation in this matter. Please feel free to contact me at this office if you have any questions. <BR>Sincerely, David L. Price <BR><BR>District Representative Land and Water Management Division <BR>******************* This is the actual response sent back........ <BR>Dear Mr. Price, <BR>Re: DEQ File No. 97-59-0023; T11N; R10W, Sec. 20; Montcalm County. <BR>Your certified letter dated 12/17/01 has been handed to me to respond to. <BR>First of all, Mr. Ryan DeVries is not the legal Landowner and/or Contractor at 2088 Dagget, Pierson, Michigan. I am the legal owner and a couple of beavers are in the (State unauthorized) process of constructing and maintaining two wood "debris" dams across the outlet stream of my Spring Pond. <BR>While I did not pay for, authorize, nor supervise their dam project, I think they would be highly offended that you call their skillful use of natures building materials "debris." <BR>I would like to challenge your department to attempt to emulate their dam project any time and/or any place you choose. I believe I can safely state there is no way you could ever match their dam skills, their dam resourcefulness, their dam ingenuity, their dam persistence, their dam determination and/or their dam work ethic. <BR>As to your request, I do not think the beavers are aware that they must first fill out a dam permit prior to the start of this type of dam activity. <BR>My first dam question to you is: (1) Are you trying to discriminate against my Spring Pond Beavers or (2) do you require all beavers throughout this State to conform to said dam request? <BR>If you are not discriminating against these particular beavers, through the Freedom of Information Act, I request completed copies of all those other applicable beaver dam permits that have been issued. Perhaps we will see if there really is a dam violation of Part 301, Inland Lakes and Streams, of the Natural Resource and Environmental Protection Act, Act 451 of the Public Acts of 1994, being sections 324.30101 to 324.30113 of the Michigan Compiled Laws, annotated. <BR>I have several concerns. My first concern is - aren't the beavers entitled to legal representation? The Spring Pond Beavers are financially destitute and are unable to pay for said representation - so the State will have to provide them with a dam lawyer. The Department's dam concern that either one or both of the dams failed during a recent rain event causing flooding is proof that this is a natural occurrence, which the Department is required to protect. <BR>In other words, we should leave the Spring Pond Beavers alone rather than harassing them and calling their dam names. If you want the stream "restored" to a dam free-flow condition please contact the beavers - but if you are going to arrest them, they obviously did not pay any attention to your dam letter, they being unable to read English. <BR>In my humble opinion, the Spring Pond Beavers have a right to build their unauthorized dams as long as the sky is blue, the grass is green and water flows downstream. They have more dam rights than I do to live and enjoy Spring Pond. If the Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Protection lives up to its name, it should protect the natural resources (Beavers) and the environment (Beavers' Dams.). <BR>So, as far as the beavers and I are concerned, this dam case can be referred for more elevated enforcement action right now. Why wait until 1/31/2002? The Spring Pond Beavers may be under the dam ice then and there will be no way for you or your dam staff to contact/harass them then. <BR>In conclusion, I would like to bring to your attention to a real environmental quality (health) problem in the area. It is the bears! Bears are actually defecating in our woods. I definitely believe you should be persecuting the defecating bears and leave the beavers alone. If you are going to investigate the beaver dam, watch your step! (The bears are not careful where they dump!) <BR>Being unable to comply with your dam request, and being unable to contact you on your dam answering machine, I am sending this response to your dam office. <BR>Sincerely, <BR>Stephen L.Tvedten <BR></FONT></DIV>
Try Kaibab Moccasin Co. in Tucson. They make excellent Navajo-style and
Ute-style mocassins, ideal for the "Southwestern" look. People of all
professions often chose to wear mocassins once they were out on the plains,
including soldiers, tourists, etc. (See Garrard, "Wah-to-yah and the Taos
Trail" et. Al.)
John R. Sweet
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Try Kaibab Moccasin Co. in Tucson. They make excellent Navajo-style and Ute-style mocassins, ideal for the "Southwestern" look. People of all professions often chose to wear mocassins once they were out on the plains, including soldiers, tourists, etc. (See Garrard, "Wah-to-yah and the Taos Trail" et. Al.)<BR>
<BR>
John R. Sweet</FONT></HTML>
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<BR>Beaverboy Has given the method I use the only thing I would add is I try and get as much off as ya can with the knife before boiling. I take the tongue and brains out before boiling it helps to cut down on the time it has to be boiled. ya can take brush to it to help clean off the meat and stuff when ya take it out of the water. After ya get it clean I have used hydrogen peroxide to bleach the bone just a little in a fresh pot of water will do it. Do be careful because to much will eat the bones.
<BR>see ya on the trail
<BR>Crazy Cyot </FONT></HTML>
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<DIV>A friend of mine has a skull collection. He uses meal worms and saw dust. Bury skull in bucket of sawdust, ans meal worms, they'll pick the skull clean. Meal worms can be found at pet stores. When I did a beaver skull, I just buried it in the garden. Nature did the rest. hardtack</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">As to occupations, there were lots of them in the area but many of them never traveled to a Rendezvous, and that affects <I>how</I> 'correct' you can be. Another part of getting your persona right is not only WHAT you did but WHEN you did it. <BR>
One occupation I've never ran across anyone doing that might be a whole bunch of fun to do is that of one of the distillers of the famed Taos Lightning. <BR>
Subject: Re: MtMan-List: was Boots now Occupations
Date: 29 Sep 2002 11:49:36 EDT
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In a message dated 9/29/2002 6:29:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
NaugaMok@aol.com writes:
> One occupation I've never ran across anyone doing that might be a whole
> bunch of fun to do is that of one of the distillers of the famed Taos
> Lightning.
>
Funny you should mention that NM; one of the first Southwest things I did was
as a Whisky Merchant traveling the Trail to Rendezvous. Only problem was
gettin' into my own merchandise a bit too often, and having WAY too much fun <
GGG>. Barney
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000080" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B>In a message dated 9/29/2002 6:29:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, NaugaMok@aol.com writes:<BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">One occupation I've never ran across anyone doing that might be a whole bunch of fun to do is that of one of the distillers of the famed Taos Lightning. <BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B><BR>
Funny you should mention that NM; one of the first Southwest things I did was as a Whisky Merchant traveling the Trail to Rendezvous. Only problem was gettin' into my own merchandise a bit too often, and having WAY too much fun <GGG>. Barney</B></FONT></HTML>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">if anyone is interested in this period and the idea of a "Southwestern" 1840's <BR>
event let me know.<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000080" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SCRIPT" FACE="Comic Sans MS" LANG="0"><B><BR>
Cpt, I'm polishin' up my Paterson's. Put me on the list...... Barney </B></FONT></HTML>
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