Subject: Re: Re: MtMan-List: Question from new subsciber
Date: 03 Mar 2001 19:46:08 -0700
<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><font ><blockquote><blockquote><TT>And to think of all those miles us pilgrims had <BR>
to lug you in that Sedan chair.... with the poles <BR>
cutting into our shoulders,.............<BR>
<BR>
My suspicions grow.....<BR>
<BR>
Lee Newbill<BR>
Humble Pilgrim<BR>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<BR>
"Hey Pilgrim", didn't that sound like the Duke!!!<BR>
<BR>
If that would have been Larry, Dennis and myself <BR>
we would have carried the good Capt. tied to the <BR>
pole and gagged, then told everyone in camp of <BR>
our great hunt and what we got. <GGG> "You should <BR>
be leary Pilgrim", starting to feel like watch <BR>
one old them old shootem ups videos.<BR>
<BR>
Oh, about the sheep jokes boys, do you want the <BR>
edited or uncut photos? How about Dennis does <BR>
<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><font ><blockquote><blockquote><TT>agreed people are the problem, but when they have <BR>
moved into a farming area that has been in <BR>
operation since right after the Civil War and <BR>
In a message dated 3/6/01 11:57:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dbest@hydro.mb.ca writes:
> Wondering if any of you folks have any first-hand knowledge of Predersoli's
>
Hi Dianne,
We own a .36 (and it uses a .36 ball) Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle (one of
the old ones) and it works well. I replaced the main spring (no problem
getting parts) as the original was cracked. But after that it works and
looks great. We have a friend that shoots a .32 at all the local shoots and
even out to 75 yards he is always in the money and loves it. In fact he
likes his so much that he convinced another club member who was getting his
first flinter to buy the .45 you are interested in. He got his from Kennedy
Arms last fall and I helped him sight it in. Out of the box it shot tight
groups and looked and worked well (after I got him a real flint that fit the
lock). Fit and finish was real nice and for the price it is a good buy.
Should give you years of fun.
Y.M.O.S.
C.T. Oakes
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/6/01 11:57:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
<BR>dbest@hydro.mb.ca writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Wondering if any of you folks have any first-hand knowledge of Predersoli's
<BR>work. </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hi Dianne,
<BR>
<BR>We own a .36 (and it uses a .36 ball) Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle (one of
<BR>the old ones) and it works well. I replaced the main spring (no problem
<BR>getting parts) as the original was cracked. But after that it works and
<BR>looks great. We have a friend that shoots a .32 at all the local shoots and
<BR>even out to 75 yards he is always in the money and loves it. In fact he
<BR>likes his so much that he convinced another club member who was getting his
<BR>first flinter to buy the .45 you are interested in. He got his from Kennedy
<BR>Arms last fall and I helped him sight it in. Out of the box it shot tight
<BR>groups and looked and worked well (after I got him a real flint that fit the
<BR>lock). Fit and finish was real nice and for the price it is a good buy.
<BR>Should give you years of fun.
<BR>
<BR>Y.M.O.S.
<BR>
<BR>C.T. Oakes</FONT></HTML>
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<dd>Several months ago someone on this list recommend the "Titus Bass" series of books written by Terry Johnston as being a good read. As a result, I have accumulated all 8 current paperback books and have read all of them with great enjoyment. Some I bought new and the rest I purchased from Ebay ... all are in good to excellent shape. <br>
<br>
<dd>If anyone is interested in purchasing this set to read before they read the last volume please contact me.<br>
<br>
<dd>I also have all three volumes of the "Jonas Hook" trilogy<br>
<br>
<dd>Have a great day!
<dd>Doc Holliday<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<font face="Bookman Old Style, Bookman">
<dd>*********************************</font><font face="Bookman Old Style, Bookman" color="#000080">
<dd>Richard J. Holliday, DVM</b></font><font face="Bookman Old Style, Bookman" size=2>
Look again. They are traveling across the Continental Divide. Came east from the Tetons along the Gros Ventre River. Your next guess? Sorry, I don't have any prizes to award! I'm off to Enumclaw to sell my novel for the first time.
Laura Jean
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<html><head><meta Name='keywords' Content='commtouch, pronto, mail, free email, free, branded, web based, free web based email, communications, internet, software, advertising banners, e-mail, free software'></head><body ><div align='left'><font ><blockquote><blockquote><TT>agreed people are the problem, but when they have <BR>
moved into a farming area that has been in <BR>
operation since right after the Civil War and <BR>
Check this site for one man's supposedly educated opinion:
http://www.word-detective.com/101800.html
Noah Webster's 1828 make this reference:
Drawers
5. Drawers, in the plural, a close under garment worn on the lower limbs.
Dean Rudy wrote this in 1996:
I've found a number of references to "woolen drawers" being sold there in the 1834-37 period. One of the buyers was our old friend Osborne Russell!
My interpretation of this is that they were in fact available in the mountains and were actually used by ordinary trappers. I would guess the style is that of breeches reaching just below the knee.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have read that the "Union Suit" as we know it today wasn't available until the western movement and very popular 10 years after the fur trade later years.
The bloomers, drawers or breeches where from the early F&I period (or earlier) through the fur trade as stated; saw a sketch in an early Phila. Gazzett advertisement (late 1700's) showing breeches with a long tailed shirt that was split up the sides (about to mid thigh) to allow it to be pulled through the crouch to make an air tight arrangement like the later union suit in keeping out drafts. The ad was talking about a new flannel fabric just arriving from the finest mills in England. Hope this helps Roadkill.
Thanks for your time, take care.
Buck Conner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ AMM ~ LENAPE ~ NRA ~ HRD ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://pages.about.com/conner1/
http://pages.about.com/buckconner/
"Rival the best - Surpass the rest".
___________ Aux Aliments de Pays! _
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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I don't know if long johns are period or not.....I doubt it......but I don't wear them. What I failed to include in my post is a description of my own drawers.(....the first person who comments about their size might wind up on my bad side.) They are essentially draw-string, knee length muslin pants with no fly at all...and one identical pair of Canton Flannel.....light canvas on one side of the fabric and cotton flannel on the other. Don't have any wool, but would in a heartbeat if I camped in really cold weather.
YMOS
Lanney
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For those that don't know what Lanney means about size, lets just say he makes Rosey Greer look average, that's real close, if you don't know who Rosey is try the WWF star "Big Show". That was being nice Lanney, but just how much material did that take !
Thanks for your time, take care.
Buck Conner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ AMM ~ LENAPE ~ NRA ~ HRD ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://pages.about.com/conner1/
http://pages.about.com/buckconner/
"Rival the best - Surpass the rest".
___________ Aux Aliments de Pays! _
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
FREE! The World's Best Email Address @email.com
Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com
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Both wool and cotton drawers were available and used in the mountains-"Canton Flannel" which was cotton, as well as wool and green "floor cloth" were all purchased and used by the trappers of Fort Hall in the 1830's. The AMFC records show the famous brigade leader Andrew Dripps purchasing "2 pairs white flannel Drawers" in 1833. For more detailed information on this topic I would refer you to page 29 of the Book of Buckskinning VII.
Just about all of the trade ledgers, Rendezvous inventory lists and fur trade posts records indicate that "Red flannel" shirts were very popular among the mountaineers. In 1834 Fort union had 200 in inventory.
Clay Landry
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hey Clay,
How have you wintered, you have been missed, thank you for adding to this subject, nice to hear from you.
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In a message dated 3/15/01 1:37:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, chaflesl@isu.edu
writes:
> I have a Traditions Pennsylvania Longrifle that I am refinishing so it
> don't look like a factory gun since I can't afford a custom gun at this
> time. What's a good method for finishing the stock?
>
> Thanks,
> Les
>
Hi Les,
I did also have a Traditions and wanted to get rid of the hi polish factory
look. I took the slow method over the winter using a scraper and a couple
pieces of broken bottle glass (tape the part you are going to hold) to scrape
off the original finish. Then I steel wooled it with several different grits
to get it smooth. Used a oil based stain and then bees wax rubbed in but not
buffed to seal it and it looks much better. I also used dirty cleaning
patches with residue from shooting (fouling) to darken the brass. In fact
everytime I clean the barrel I rub the dirty patches on the brass to give it
a nice dark color. There is probably a proper way to age brass but this
works for me and it costs nothing to do, just takes a little time to age in.
I also replaced the adjustable sight with a fixed site and blued it to match
barrel. Some will say you should strip the bluing off but historically blued
barrels were done and are as correct as browned or in the white so I left
mine blued.
I was told that you can take the stock finish off a lot faster then scraping
by using a commercial polyurethane finish remover, but then I would not have
had anything to do on the long winter nights.
Hope that helps.
Y.M.O.S.
C.T. Oakes
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/15/01 1:37:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, chaflesl@isu.edu
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have a Traditions Pennsylvania Longrifle that I am refinishing so it
<BR>don't look like a factory gun since I can't afford a custom gun at this
<BR>time. What's a good method for finishing the stock?
<BR>
<BR>Thanks,
<BR>Les
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hi Les,
<BR>
<BR>I did also have a Traditions and wanted to get rid of the hi polish factory
<BR>look. I took the slow method over the winter using a scraper and a couple
<BR>pieces of broken bottle glass (tape the part you are going to hold) to scrape
<BR>off the original finish. Then I steel wooled it with several different grits
<BR>to get it smooth. Used a oil based stain and then bees wax rubbed in but not
<BR>buffed to seal it and it looks much better. I also used dirty cleaning
<BR>patches with residue from shooting (fouling) to darken the brass. In fact
<BR>everytime I clean the barrel I rub the dirty patches on the brass to give it
<BR>a nice dark color. There is probably a proper way to age brass but this
<BR>works for me and it costs nothing to do, just takes a little time to age in.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>I also replaced the adjustable sight with a fixed site and blued it to match
<BR>barrel. Some will say you should strip the bluing off but historically blued
<BR>barrels were done and are as correct as browned or in the white so I left
<BR>mine blued.
<BR>
<BR>I was told that you can take the stock finish off a lot faster then scraping
<BR>by using a commercial polyurethane finish remover, but then I would not have
<BR>had anything to do on the long winter nights.
<BR>
<BR>Hope that helps.
<BR>
<BR>Y.M.O.S.
<BR>
<BR>C.T. Oakes</FONT></HTML>
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"Kit Carson's Autobiography" has a great tale of Antioine with
Kit during a raid on a Jicarilla Apache camp in October 1849 to get
back a white woman who was kidnapped. (Pages 132-5). the notes at
the bottom on the pages give a good overview to him and note him having
a good reputation as guide and being only second to Kit Carson.
In "Etienne Provost" by Jack Tykal, He is also mentioned as a member
of a early party with Pierre Lesperance. (Page 35 note, page 20 for the
story)
In may of 1814, 18 frenchmen called Phillibert's Compnay trapped the lower
front range to the spanish settlements. They were arrested and brought to
Taos
and kept there. Others who were in the group were: Michael (Francois) La
CLair,
Joseph Bissonett, Charles Beaubien and maybe Etiene Provost.
For family history, you might want to buy a copy of Carson's book, it
is easily
found in paper back and cheap, about $8.00.A lot of events are pretty
sketchy
for the early time peroid like with the Provost book, for the 1814 trapping
party
in the southwest was four years before the Choteau-DeMunn group which is
much more famous.And had the similiar fates.If I can help mmore let me
know.
mike.
my web pages
James Leroux wrote:
> Would gratefully appreciate bibliographical information on Antoine
> Leroux who acted as guide for Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves. Thank you
>
> ----------------------
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James,
<br> "Kit Carson's Autobiography" has a great tale of
Antioine with
<br>Kit during a raid on a Jicarilla Apache camp in October 1849 to get
<br>back a white woman who was kidnapped. (Pages 132-5). the notes at
<br>the bottom on the pages give a good overview to him and note him having
<br>a good reputation as guide and being only second to Kit Carson.
<br> In "Etienne Provost" by Jack Tykal, He is
also mentioned as a member
<br>of a early party with Pierre Lesperance. (Page 35 note, page 20 for
the story)
<br>In may of 1814, 18 frenchmen called Phillibert's Compnay trapped the
lower
<br>front range to the spanish settlements. They were arrested and brought
to Taos
<br>and kept there. Others who were in the group were: Michael (Francois)
La CLair,
<br>Joseph Bissonett, Charles Beaubien and maybe Etiene Provost.
<br> For family history, you might want to buy a copy
of Carson's book, it is easily
<br>found in paper back and cheap, about $8.00.A lot of events are pretty
sketchy
<br>for the early time peroid like with the Provost book, for the 1814
trapping party
<br>in the southwest was four years before the Choteau-DeMunn group which
is
<br>much more famous.And had the similiar fates.If I can help mmore let
me know.
<br>
mike.
<p> <a href="http://home.earthlink.net/~amm1616">my web pages</a>
<br>
<p>James Leroux wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>Would gratefully appreciate bibliographical information
on Antoine
<br>Leroux who acted as guide for Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves. Thank you
<p>----------------------
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In a message dated 3/16/01 7:04:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chrissega1@yahoo.com writes:
> them in side seams or pucker toes, as the
> orthotics are hard plastic and wear through thin
> leather easily.
I have extremely high arch and can not wear mocs without an arch support. I
cut out an insole of thick leather (shoe sole blanks) put it in the moc with
an arch support on top of that and then a light weight leather insole to
cover the arch support. As long as the moc is built to accomodate the extra
it works well and also keeps my city/desk jockey tender feet from getting
stone brused on the trail.
But I must admit that in most cases I rely on period correct shoes (Fagawee)
and boots. Even easier on my feet and they last so many more miles then mocs.
Y.M.O.S.
C.T. Oakes
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 3/16/01 7:04:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
<BR>chrissega1@yahoo.com writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">them in side seams or pucker toes, as the
<BR>orthotics are hard plastic and wear through thin
<BR>leather easily. </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I have extremely high arch and can not wear mocs without an arch support. I
<BR>cut out an insole of thick leather (shoe sole blanks) put it in the moc with
<BR>an arch support on top of that and then a light weight leather insole to
<BR>cover the arch support. As long as the moc is built to accomodate the extra
<BR>it works well and also keeps my city/desk jockey tender feet from getting
<BR>stone brused on the trail.
<BR>
<BR>But I must admit that in most cases I rely on period correct shoes (Fagawee)
<BR>and boots. Even easier on my feet and they last so many more miles then mocs.
<BR>
<BR>Y.M.O.S.
<BR>
<BR>C.T. Oakes</FONT></HTML>
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I was wondering if anyone could point me to texts or resources for cloth clothing of the mtn. man (since I have not enough brain tan deer hide to make my shirt yet!) Right now, I have a hunting shirt I just made that would do well for F&I period and have to fit it with my persona that I am just coming from the settlements and it is one of several my VERY OLD grandma made me before I left!! (She would have learned to sew that style???) I'd like to make a good shirt correct for the era of 1825-1830 (leggings, too, out of leather, but for now canvas will have to do!)
Thanks in advance for your hints!
-C.Kent
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I bought a black horn at a gunshow in Burley, Idaho about 20 years ago. The guy wanted $20 - would let it go for $15. He still had it at the end of the show so I got it for ten. It had brass tacks holding the wooden plug in place. For a test I pulled one of them and to my delight it had a square brass shank - not
the steel one we see today. The old, OLD tacks were cast in a single piece - all brass, square tapered shank. Conclusion: for ten bucks I had bought an
original buffalo-horn powder-horn from the 1800s. So . . . 'tis possible
Richard James
----------------------
Like Dick says, one would have to look at it, but there may be a slim chance it's an old one. There are many stories about folks picking old powder horns at strange places for next to nothing.
Concho Smith that's on this list use to buy right-away for the state of Pennsylvaina Highway Dept. and every once in a while would come up with some interesting old horns, tools, guns, etc., usually for next to nothing or nothing. He made a nice side-line business out of this stuff, when I was still in business he was a good supplier for antique items to sell, of course he high graded what he kept, butt head.
See if the gentleman will send you some pictures or even loan you the horn for a closer look, interesting.
Thanks for your time, take care.
Buck Conner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ AMM ~ LENAPE ~ NRA ~ HRD ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://pages.about.com/conner1/
http://pages.about.com/buckconner/
"Rival the best - Surpass the rest".
___________ Aux Aliments de Pays! _
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Subject: MtMan-List: 1831 powderhorns and other questionable items.
Date: 25 Mar 2001 10:19:40 -0500 (EST)
It is real hard to tell about the age of a powder horn. As has been said, square shanked tacks are a indication also whether it has been scaped smooth, and whether the throut has been drilled or burned out.......
There are a lot of guys out there who can do all the right things in making a horn that can fool just about anybody....
Just my $.02
Pendleton
----------------------
Larry,
You mentioning folks making hard to detect items (horns, etc.), years ago I let a couple of young adult 1/2 breed Blackfoot kids use an old 2000 sq. ft. fruit storgae bldg. to make Indian crafts - that's when Praire Edge was going hot and heavy.
Anyway I was at a museum outside of Denver and see some of their work but in poor condition with a sign of being collected before turn of the century !
A few weeks later I'm changing irrigation pipe down by the creek on our property and see a pair of mocs staked in the water with dirt wasting through them ! I get off the tractor and head up to the fruit bldg and notice another pair of old dirty mocs staked on the tin roof !
Bottom line I was furnishing a work area for a couple of guys making good fake antiques and doing quite well at it.
I ran them off and notified the couple of museums I knew about that had their stuff, don't know what they paid for their wares, but was shocked at the museum's staff attitude in telling me "oh well, they are good looking pieces" and they are still on display today after twenty years. How much of the "original" pieces we see are really "original" ?
Thanks for your time, take care.
Buck Conner
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ AMM ~ LENAPE ~ NRA ~ HRD ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://pages.about.com/conner1/
http://pages.about.com/buckconner/
"Rival the best - Surpass the rest".
___________ Aux Aliments de Pays! _
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Coopers were a dime a dozen in the old days. Barrels were the most common
kind of shipping material and wood was cheap. Wood cost no more than the
effort to collect it. Think of the barrel as cardboard boxes. There wasn't
much of an effort to reuse barrels. Usually they went one way and ended up
as firewood after they were opened. Seems odd to me but this is what I was
told at Williamsburg.
Larry Huber
-------------------------
Early barrels had the wooden rings and later ones had the iron rings which became tools and weapons after the wood was gone for the Native American according to many accounts on westward movement, that must be where we get the throw away attitude - from our forefathers !
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> <<that many original denims were also a wool blend. A blue wool/ denim
> fabric called "Country cloth"-purchased from Charlie Childs in Ohio is a
> very good replication of the old denim/wool blend according to Bill. I
> have also purchased plain white denim at fabric stores and dyed it gray or
> brown-after dying >>
A word of warning if you choose to use denim, which I agree existed and was
used earlier than most think. I had a pair of drop front breeches made for
me by a top name sutler out of stock brown denum/canvas and got nothing but
grief from my so called buddies. Only by stopping use of them did I escape a
camp name of "Carhartts". If you choose to wear blue denim you will get
constant questions about documentation and such from the strict historical
stitch counters and some events may tell you (based on their research) that
they are not acceptable at the event.
Now I'm not saying don't do it if you are sure of your history and
documentation, I'm just saying that I found redyeing my breeches in summac
and iron to change the color made life easier around the camp. It took less
time to dye the fabric then it would have to educate the 1,000's of
reinactors and public.
Y.M.O.S.
C.T. Oakes
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<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><<that many original denims were also a wool blend. A blue wool/ denim
<BR>fabric called "Country cloth"-purchased from Charlie Childs in Ohio is a
<BR>very good replication of the old denim/wool blend according to Bill. I
<BR>have also purchased plain white denim at fabric stores and dyed it gray or
<BR>brown-after dying >></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>A word of warning if you choose to use denim, which I agree existed and was
<BR>used earlier than most think. I had a pair of drop front breeches made for
<BR>me by a top name sutler out of stock brown denum/canvas and got nothing but
<BR>grief from my so called buddies. Only by stopping use of them did I escape a
<BR>camp name of "Carhartts". If you choose to wear blue denim you will get
<BR>constant questions about documentation and such from the strict historical
<BR>stitch counters and some events may tell you (based on their research) that
<BR>they are not acceptable at the event.
<BR>
<BR>Now I'm not saying don't do it if you are sure of your history and
<BR>documentation, I'm just saying that I found redyeing my breeches in summac
<BR>and iron to change the color made life easier around the camp. It took less
<BR>time to dye the fabric then it would have to educate the 1,000's of
<BR>reinactors and public.
<BR>
<BR>Y.M.O.S.
<BR>
<BR>C.T. Oakes</FONT></HTML>
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Personally, if you want to do it right and have a yearning to know & learn.. FANDAMNTASTIC!! I will bend over backwards for you (as will anyone that is serious about this that I know) , no matter what your research level, experience, whatever... If you don't care for whatever reason and are happy with what you are doing at whatever research level (or none)..Again, GREAT! Have at it!
Invite me over for a cool one under your awning and such, and I will accept, gratefully.. And I'll share what I have with you. BUT, if you are in this latter group,don't ask me a question about gear, your outfit, your accouterments &ct., then get pissed when I give you honest answers.. IF I am asked, I will answer honestly. And I won't whitewash.. If it is something I don't know, I will answer the same.. "I don't know" I have found that alot of the more vocal latter group are the ones that use the words, nazi, elitist. snob & a few others pretty liberally..
Also, keep it in mind, no reason to get nasty when you get a
rejection letter to a juried event... The jury committee are not nazi's either (although I suspect some fascists in the group<G>) They are going by their guidelines, which generally are backed up with ALLOT of solid documentation.And don't get all indignant and mad when you show up at the gate to a juried event clad head to toe in chrometan, painter pants and other scary shiny stuff just to "visit & walk around" this will blow the "illusion" of the period for the participants faster than anything I know of. If there is a visitor day, come in street clothes, enjoy and mebby
learn.. You will find that these folk ain't all that bad.. No one will make fun or "tease" you for your questions.(even if you DO look funny).
And as matter of my experience, if you are at a doins that let most anything fly, the ones that are truly trying to do it "right" and are not going to tease you either. At least with the bunch of mild mannered, deeply thoughtful Gentlemen I generally find myself surrounded by.. It is a two way street,, folks.. And don't forget it.
If your not willing to listen and learn, make some changes or whatever is need, then don't go around crying, that's usually when yee will get the crap (you started it now suffer).
Many don't want to go any deeper than where they are in this thing called "living history" that's fine, those that do, that's fine also. Remember how your folks would always tell you "you get out what you put in, in life" same applies with this experience.
When I started Clark & Sons Merc. it was for just this reason, many would spend the time and money with researching their equipage and then short themselves when in camp eating non period edibles. They where not experiencing the total picture, C&SM gave them the options to get period correct foods for their time period, along with documentated cookwares, get the idea (now they're getting closer to what life was like).
For many they are not interested in this depth, that's fine, I like to hear "Classical" music sometimes when at a period settlement, but wouldn't go to an opera, that's my business, like those only wanting to stay at the level where they are, their business.
Let's move on, this ones been talked about so many times and has become nothing more than a "pissing match".
Thanks for your time, take care.
Buck Conner
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