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dr350-digest         Monday, December 27 1999         Volume 01 : Number 229




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 18:08:43 -0800
From: Andrew <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no subject)

index dr350

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 21:52:16 -0600
From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) o-ring chains..

[e-mail] Wrote:

O-ring chain maintenance mantras are like opinions; everybody's got one (or
something like that). The main advantage of an o-ring is the fact that the
pins stay "permanently" lubed; permanently, that is, until you do something
to violate the seal like take a full-force aim with that fa
<SNIP>

Don't forget that your chain's rollers need a good quality lubricant to
maintain a slippery surface.  WD-40 is not that lubricant.  It will work
great displacing water from a recent wash and afford a "light" coating of
lubricant to avoid rust setting in, but Chain Lube or a Chain Wax, will
provide your O-ring chain with a much better level of protection.

The rollers that actually touch the sprocket are "not" sealed and need to
be lubricated regularly.

Eric


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end


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 22:43:53 -0600
From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Bringing along a Camera

Anyone take their camera with them when they go trailing?

I'm looking for a good way to transport my camera when I plonk into the
woods.  I generally carry a backpack loaded up with goodies like bandaids,
water, towels, couple of tools, and some other misc stuff for myself and
two other riders.

I don't think I want to stick the camera in the backpack, though I probably
will, hell what's one more thing in there anyway.  However, I'd really like
something which offers better access to the camera than the backpack
method.

I'll be packing a Nikon N70 with a 28-105mm and 100-300mm Zoom.  I had
debated bringing it with last summer, but decided that my hands would be
full making sure my wife and kid were riding safely and I wouldn't have
time for any meaningful shots.

This summer will be a bit different.

Thanks
Eric



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 22:21:53 -0700
From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) 99 DR350SE questions

Andy,
Assuming you are the first owner and you bought it new from a dealer, I
would let the dealer
figure out what the problem is. Sounds like it may be too lean, probably
because the airbox
snorkel has been removed, water in the float bowl, fuel adjusting screw
is not adjusted for your altitude, float too low or who
knows how long the list could be.  If the dealer is not involved for
what ever reason, let the
list know and I'm sure they can diagnose the problem with a little more
info.  Jesse Kientz of Kientech Engineering builds airboxs for the DR350
and DR350S model Suzuki's and can answer all of your airbox questions,
he has a web page at: http://www.Kientech.com/ and can be E-mailed at
[e-mail]   I can help on suspension/swingarm questions.  Web Page:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299  E-mail:  [e-mail]
If your new to the list, welcome, and let us know if we can help get
your DR sorted
out. Thats our story and were sticking to it.  Norm

Andrew wrote:

> I bought a new 99 DR350SE about two months ago. It has had a problem
> with missing / sputtering at about 2500 rpm especially when cold.  The
> problem doesn't seem to be as bad now that I've got about 500 miles on
> the bike although it's still there.  I'm getting ready to take it in for
> the first service and wondered if anyone else has experienced this
> problem. I'm a 47 year old beginning rider, so far I've been riding fire
> roads and once to the desert along with some street riding close to
> home.  I would also appreciate any advice on modifications for this
> bike.  Comments on air box, carburetor, and the rear swing arm changes
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy Campbell
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

- -


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 00:42:31 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Bringing along a Camera

Eric

Tamrac (brand name) has a very nice "chest" case for SLR cameras, that has
room for a telephoto lens. Personally I gave up on the SLR for riding (unless
I am just using the bike to get to the shoot) for almost every occasion. I
started carrying a PENTAX IQzoom105wr point and shoot. I've dropped mine in
dust, dirt, mud and water and it still takes great shots.
Good Luck

Rod Carlile
Bend, OR
98 DR350SE
85 XR350
91 XL250
93 KX250
94 KDX200
85 V65Sabre
69 Z50 Honda

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:36:32 +0100
From: Tim Bosseloo <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Cilindercap

Hello,

I'm a DR350 '92 rider, and I only bought the bike 2000 kms ago. I had it
checked at that time ( it had 18,000 kms then ) and had the oil changed.
Last week, it begun to make strange noises, and it didn't start that
good anymore for more then two weeks. I thought that was normal, since
it begun to get colder.

Anyway, we removed the cylinder cap ( I'm not sure you call it that way
in English ) and we saw that the little axe that drives the valves ( we
call it "nokkenas" in Belgium ) and the cylindercap are worn out due to
insuficient lubrification. It seems the problem already existed before I
bought the bike.

Does anybody know a way to fix this, or if there are any non-original
spare parts, because these things cost as much new as I paid for the
whole bike ... :(

Tim - Belgium - Europe "Don't call them French Fries, call 'em Belgian
Fries !"


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 06:37:45 -0800
From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Bringing along a Camera

Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Anyone take their camera with them when they go trailing?
>
> I'm looking for a good way to transport my camera when I plonk into the
> woods.  I generally carry a backpack loaded up with goodies like bandaids,
> water, towels, couple of tools, and some other misc stuff for myself and
> two other riders.
>
> I don't think I want to stick the camera in the backpack, though I probably
> will, hell what's one more thing in there anyway.  However, I'd really like
> something which offers better access to the camera than the backpack
> method.
>
> I'll be packing a Nikon N70 with a 28-105mm and 100-300mm Zoom.  I had
> debated bringing it with last summer, but decided that my hands would be
> full making sure my wife and kid were riding safely and I wouldn't have
> time for any meaningful shots.
>
> This summer will be a bit different.
>
> Thanks
> Eric

Eric,
    That is a poor choice for a camera to carry this way, however it is a
very good choice for taking pictures of the wife and kids. You would be
risking damage to an expensive item to repair.
    Get yourself a "point and shoot" camera. Many are available now at very
reasonable prices, even with zoom lenses.
    My favorite trail camera is an older Nikon Action Touch, which is
waterproof, therefore dust proof also. I carry it on a strap around my
neck, take many pictures "on the fly". Many of my best pictures were
taken this way. The Action Touch does not even have a zoom, but is a
28mm wide angle, which allows me to just hold it up and not even look
through the view finder, and still get a decent picture.
    Having very good equipment such as yours may make you not think of some
other alternatives. I have used the "throw away" cameras with great
success. I've even sold some of the pictures from them, back when I was
taking magazine and commercial brochure pictures. One of my best shots
came from a panorama camera, and was the only "good shot out of the
camera, but at the price of the camera it was worth it.
    My preference these days is a digital camera. I use a Sony Mavica as it
uses a floppy disk for storage media. Getting between 20 and 40 pictures
on each disk, means a small pocket full of disks will last for a long
trip into Baja. A lot more risk of damage, of course.
    I tend to take a different camera depending on how much risk exposure I
expect. But I would only take my "good" SLR on a touring trip in an
enclosed case on the bike.
    I know that everyone can't afford several cameras, but can you afford
repairs to your only camera? Better to use what you can afford to
repair, even if it's a throwaway that wouldn't need repair. You'll be
surprised at the pictures you get. After all, it's the content, not the
quality, that makes it a "keeper" picture.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 08:19:08 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Cilindercap

Hi Tim(Belgium fries)Bossoloo,Just a little American Humer there It sounds
like you need some. First you have the camshaft then the rocker arms that
pivot between the camshaft and the valves. As the camshaft turns the lobes
on it raise and lower these rocker arms
which in turn open and close the valves. The areas that are subject to
damage with the lack of lubrication are first the journals or bearing
surfaces where the camshaft rides in the cylinder head, then the camshaft
lobes and the wide section of the rocker arms that make contact as the
camshaft turns. The camshaft can be replaced with minimal cost and the
rockerarms can be refaced also with minimal cost. However the cylinder head
is another matter they must be replaced as a matched pair due to the way
that they are machined when being manufactured. I will do some research on
this for you since some aftermarket camshaft companies make needle bearing
cams and the head is resized in the bearing journal area to receive these
oversize bearings which would maybe solve your problem in this area. It
would be wise to explore further though to find out why the lubrication
problem occurred in the first place. The oil pump gear on the clutch side
would be the first place to look check and see if it has any teeth missing.
If it does then the engine will need to be completely disassembled to clean
out the teeth that will destroy the rest of the engine internals. The oil
pump should be also checked for wear or damage. Keep me posted and if my
decription needs more clarification you can contact me I will try to make it
more clear.

Regards  Jesse

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail]
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Tim Bosseloo
Sent: Monday, December 27, 1999 3:37 AM
To: dr350 mailing list
Subject: (dr350) Cilindercap


Hello,

I'm a DR350 '92 rider, and I only bought the bike 2000 kms ago. I had it
checked at that time ( it had 18,000 kms then ) and had the oil changed.
Last week, it begun to make strange noises, and it didn't start that
good anymore for more then two weeks. I thought that was normal, since
it begun to get colder.

Anyway, we removed the cylinder cap ( I'm not sure you call it that way
in English ) and we saw that the little axe that drives the valves ( we
call it "nokkenas" in Belgium ) and the cylindercap are worn out due to
insuficient lubrification. It seems the problem already existed before I
bought the bike.

Does anybody know a way to fix this, or if there are any non-original
spare parts, because these things cost as much new as I paid for the
whole bike ... :(

Tim - Belgium - Europe "Don't call them French Fries, call 'em Belgian
Fries !"


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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #229
***************************