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dr350-digest         Friday, December 10 1999         Volume 01 : Number 219




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:52:29 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR ergos

I have, but I have the Magic Airbox which sticks out about 1/2 inch on one
side.  I have gotten used to it after having it modified once with marginal
success.

Chris in Nor Cal

In a message dated 12/10/99 10:21:27 AM, [e-mail] writes:

<< With the discussion regarding the height of the bars on DRs and their
effect
on riding in the standing position, I'm wondering if anyone else has a
problem with the width of the frame in the calf area.  Whenever, I stand, I
have to make a conscious choice between having my legs ahead of the frame
which puts my body on top of the bars, or behind the frame which is the more
ideal position for  weight but makes it difficult to shift from the standing
position.  It's quite uncomfortable to stand straight up.  This is the first
dirt bike I've had that this is a problem on.  It's a much more comfortable
sit-on bike.  Has anyone else experienced this?

Harral >>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:15:18 -0800
From: "Greg Lara" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Charcoal canister

I own a '94 DR350SE. Everything is stock, except for the addition of Acerbis
plastic.

I would like to remove the charcoal canister (for closed-course operation
only, of course). The charcoal canister collects gasoline fumes venting from
the tank so the fumes can be sucked back into the carb when the engine is
running--a great idea. However, every time I drop the bike (an event that
occurs more frequently that I care to admit) the engine stalls and is
impossible to start. I understand that tipping the bike floods the canister
with liquid gasoline causing the carb to suck liquid fuel into places it
expects a fuel-air mixture, thereby flooding the engine. At that point, I
have two options: wait 15 minutes until the charcoal starts drying out; or
bump start the bike by riding down a long hill. It seems that running the
electric starter makes the spark too weak to fire up the engine when
flooded. Throttle position makes no difference.

Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
way to:
1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from the
charcoal canister.
2) Safely vent the gas tank.

I would appreciate any suggestions from you guys.


Best regards,

- --Greg

Ph: 408-428-6251
[e-mail]


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:35:02 EST
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR bar layout...

Chris,

Great bike!.. I got to ride Johns big DR and it was WORLDS better than my
stock 91...  so is that the bike that snapped the stem???

Guy

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:38:54 -0500
From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Charcoal canister

Hi Greg,

I used to have that problem, especially when dropped on the
right side.  Then I got a pumper carb kit and Vortex airbox.
The improvement in power and throttle response is dramatic -
but I also noticed that when I drop the bike it starts with
no problem at all.

I don't know if everyone will concur with this - but that is
my experience.  I don't know if you want to go to that
expense, but I thought you might want to know of the fringe
benefit of getting the pumper carb.

Regards...Mark
Atlanta, GA
'98 DR350SE

Greg Lara wrote:
>
> I own a '94 DR350SE. Everything is stock, except for the addition of Acerbis
> plastic.
>
> I would like to remove the charcoal canister (for closed-course operation
> only, of course). The charcoal canister collects gasoline fumes venting from
> the tank so the fumes can be sucked back into the carb when the engine is
> running--a great idea. However, every time I drop the bike (an event that
> occurs more frequently that I care to admit) the engine stalls and is
> impossible to start. I understand that tipping the bike floods the canister
> with liquid gasoline causing the carb to suck liquid fuel into places it
> expects a fuel-air mixture, thereby flooding the engine. At that point, I
> have two options: wait 15 minutes until the charcoal starts drying out; or
> bump start the bike by riding down a long hill. It seems that running the
> electric starter makes the spark too weak to fire up the engine when
> flooded. Throttle position makes no difference.
>
> Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
> way to:
> 1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from the
> charcoal canister.
> 2) Safely vent the gas tank.
>
> I would appreciate any suggestions from you guys.
>
> Best regards,
>
> --Greg
>
> Ph: 408-428-6251
> [e-mail]
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:28:29 -0800
From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Charcoal canister

Greg,

I have the same bike and I've removed the charcoal canister.  As far as I
know these canisters exist only on the California model DR's.  It's there
for smog reasons because California is off the deep end about stuff like
this.  It works as a storage container for gas fumes from the tank and then
routes them back into the carb when the bike is moving at speed.

I removed my canister very shortly after purchasing my bike for fear of the
exact flooding reasons you described.  To plug the hole where the canister
originally connects to the carb, I used a short length (1.5 inches or so) of
sturdy rubber hose.

In order for this work I had to find a way to plug one end of the hose and
slide the other end over the carb connection sealing it off.  A buddy of
mine had a heat gun, so I heated up the hose to make it softer and I
literally screwed a wood screw all the way into one of the hose ends.  After
making sure it was firmly in place and completely sealed, I heated the other
end of the hose and then pushed right onto the vent in the carb.  After
cooling for a bit, it was totally anchored to the carb and there is no way
this plug is ever to going to fall off during riding.

This is not an elegant way to plug the carb vent but there is a reason why
I'm using this ugly contraption.  I wanted to have the freedom to remove
this plug at a later time if I chose to do so.  I can heat this tubing up
before removal and pull it right off without it breaking.  I also didn't
want to have a problem pulling the hose out or gripping it properly.  The
screw serves as a very nice handle to pull on and also reinforces the end of
the tubing so it won't break during removal.

I'm sure there are better ways to do this job, but this is what I came up
with.

As far as venting the tank, I didn't do anything at all to my tank after
removing the smog canister and everything's been fine, it's just not as
"enviro-friendly" as it was before.

Good luck in whatever you decide on.

Rob.





>I own a '94 DR350SE. Everything is stock, except for the addition of
Acerbis
>plastic.
>
>I would like to remove the charcoal canister (for closed-course operation
>only, of course). The charcoal canister collects gasoline fumes venting
from
>the tank so the fumes can be sucked back into the carb when the engine is
>running--a great idea. However, every time I drop the bike (an event that
>occurs more frequently that I care to admit) the engine stalls and is
>impossible to start. I understand that tipping the bike floods the canister
>with liquid gasoline causing the carb to suck liquid fuel into places it
>expects a fuel-air mixture, thereby flooding the engine. At that point, I
>have two options: wait 15 minutes until the charcoal starts drying out; or
>bump start the bike by riding down a long hill. It seems that running the
>electric starter makes the spark too weak to fire up the engine when
>flooded. Throttle position makes no difference.
>
>Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
>way to:
>1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from
the
>charcoal canister.
>2) Safely vent the gas tank.
>
>I would appreciate any suggestions from you guys.
>
>
>Best regards,
>
>--Greg
>
>Ph: 408-428-6251
>[e-mail]
>
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>Visit the dr350 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
>Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 14:39:31 -0600
From: Trail Rider <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Charcoal canister

Greg Lara wrote:

> Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
> way to:
> 1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from the
> charcoal canister.
> 2) Safely vent the gas tank.

  I removed the charcoal cannister and all the extra hoses also.

  Don't plug up the hole in the carb, it will run like crap if you do
(been there, done that).  What I did was run the tube out of the carb
straight down.  I tried putting a paper filter in it, but that was too
much of a resriction and it ran like crap even with that.  There are two
vent hoses, I tie wrapped them together and ran both of them straight
down.  Now if you fall over gas will run out the tubes (just like in a 2
stroke), but it vents out quickly and should be easy to start.

  As for the gas tank, I just made a paper filter in a hose that's about
one inch long and attached the other end of the hose to the gas tank
vent and leave it dangling.

  Everything seems to work great, YMMV.  I can now go over whoops
without any hesitation or drop it and it starts right up.

- --
Scott Aldrich
'98 Suzuki DR350SE
'85 Honda CR125R
'74 Yamaha DT125A

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:01:28 -0800
From: "Greg Lara" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Charcoal canister

Dear Scott,

Thank you for your advise, especially to leave the hole in the carburetor as
is. Your message raises two questions, though.

1) If the hole in the carb is designed to draw vapors from the canister, and
you leave the passage open, don't you run the risk of sucking dust and dirt
into the carb? Is this dangerous?

2) I would like to know more details about the paper filter you fashioned
for the gas tank vent.

Thanks again.

- --Greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trail Rider [mailto:[e-mail]]
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 12:40 PM
To: Greg Lara
Cc: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Charcoal canister




Greg Lara wrote:

> Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
> way to:
> 1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from
the
> charcoal canister.
> 2) Safely vent the gas tank.

  I removed the charcoal cannister and all the extra hoses also.

  Don't plug up the hole in the carb, it will run like crap if you do
(been there, done that).  What I did was run the tube out of the carb
straight down.  I tried putting a paper filter in it, but that was too
much of a resriction and it ran like crap even with that.  There are two
vent hoses, I tie wrapped them together and ran both of them straight
down.  Now if you fall over gas will run out the tubes (just like in a 2
stroke), but it vents out quickly and should be easy to start.

  As for the gas tank, I just made a paper filter in a hose that's about
one inch long and attached the other end of the hose to the gas tank
vent and leave it dangling.

  Everything seems to work great, YMMV.  I can now go over whoops
without any hesitation or drop it and it starts right up.

- --
Scott Aldrich
'98 Suzuki DR350SE
'85 Honda CR125R
'74 Yamaha DT125A


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:47:05 -0800
From: "Greg Lara" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Charcoal canister

Guy,

Thank you for your advice. It sounds like I should have taken these steps
years ago.

By the way, have you performed any suspension modifications? If so, I would
be curious to know the details. I am finally starting to ride fast enough to
warrant making some changes.

Best regards,

- --Greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Guy Schneider [mailto:[e-mail]]
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 3:26 PM
To: Greg Lara
Subject: RE: (dr350) Charcoal canister


Greg:

I had the same bike 94SE - loved it.  One of the other patrons of this forum
suggested the pumper carb and a Vortex airbox.  I too suggest the same -
without question.  Best $500 your spend.  I did the mods on my bike for
about $500 total.  You can get the pumper from CycleGear phone order
(1800CycleGear) for $200 bucks.  Jessie sells the Airbox and the intake
spacer you will need when putting on the pumper.  Jessie has designed the
intake space with a vacuum inlet stem for the hose running from the petcock
valve.  You will also need to replace the current intake manifold with a
"dirt" DR manifold - $30 bucks from Midwest Action Cycle.    Take off the
canister as you do not need it.  You will also need to rejet the carb to
142.5 as Jessie specifies because of the larger airbox - $.95 from
CycleGear.

The end result will be not more problems, at all when you lay it down and
the performance difference, particularly on a track or in rutty conditions
will be light years different - no more sputtering after running hard
through whoops or of jumps (that carb is not designed for aggressive offroad
conditions).

If you don't want to make the modes my suggestion is to remove the canister
and run the pet cock line directly into the inlet on the carb bypassing all
of the needless CA emissions spaghetti.  Regardless of your choice, you will
need to attach that petcock hose to a vacuum source to avoid vapor locks in
the tank.

Good luck, and if you have questions call Jessie - he walked me through the
changes (the guy is the DR350 Yoda).  Total mods took me 3 hours.  No post
work adjustments required.

Regards,

Guy S.

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail]
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Greg Lara
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 10:15 AM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Charcoal canister


I own a '94 DR350SE. Everything is stock, except for the addition of Acerbis
plastic.

I would like to remove the charcoal canister (for closed-course operation
only, of course). The charcoal canister collects gasoline fumes venting from
the tank so the fumes can be sucked back into the carb when the engine is
running--a great idea. However, every time I drop the bike (an event that
occurs more frequently that I care to admit) the engine stalls and is
impossible to start. I understand that tipping the bike floods the canister
with liquid gasoline causing the carb to suck liquid fuel into places it
expects a fuel-air mixture, thereby flooding the engine. At that point, I
have two options: wait 15 minutes until the charcoal starts drying out; or
bump start the bike by riding down a long hill. It seems that running the
electric starter makes the spark too weak to fire up the engine when
flooded. Throttle position makes no difference.

Before removing the charcoal canister, I am trying to figure out the best
way to:
1) Plug up the hole in the carburetor that accepts the hose running from the
charcoal canister.
2) Safely vent the gas tank.

I would appreciate any suggestions from you guys.


Best regards,

- --Greg

Ph: 408-428-6251
[e-mail]


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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #219
***************************