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dr350-digest       Thursday, September 16 1999       Volume 01 : Number 159




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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 04:48:03 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap

Guys

Its not the power gain it just makes the engine run better cooler air around
the cylinder head as for the mud build up you get if anything less because
the lack of heat to dry the mud out if your worried about mud just look under
the rear fender after a muddy run i have used the set-up for about 3 years on
my DR350se i have been in the top five places in all the enduros i have raced
the pasted two years on a trail bike

we also use exhaust wrap on our aircraft and that make a big difference

so go figure

tony

View my company at www.bobcroweaircraft.com

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:49:38 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap

In a message dated 9/16/99 3:49:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< makes the engine run better cooler air around
 the cylinder head >>


Looks like this got serious so time for serious questions.  Your success at
enduros may speak more to your riding abilities and less to the effectiveness
of the exhaust wrap.  Have you taken any cylinder head temperature readings
that indicate lower head temps as compared to stock?  If so, exactly where is
the head cooler? In all that I have ever read, heat extraction and
dissipation is critical to engine components longevity.  As with cylinder
fins which pull heat from the combustion chamber and dissipate it to the
atmosphere so does the exhaust header pipe serve the same purpose.  Have you
ever noticed the finning collar used around many exhaust headers?  It serves
to dissipate heat.  Wrapping the pipe and retaining heat at the exhaust ports
would definitely subject the exhaust valves to more heat.  How much more heat
would only be shown with proper lab testing.  Also to suggest that less mud
will build up on the engine in any significant amount is totally
disingenuous.  There will still remain abundant amounts engine heat to bake
mud on the fins.

Doug

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:30:27 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap

In a message dated 9/16/1999 8:51:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  totally
 disingenuous.  >>

Shouldn't it be -- total disingenuousness.

The only reason I ask is that I am trying to assist my son with 5th grade
language arts and sometimes we use E-mail threads for examples.

dis*in*gen*u*ous (adjective)

First appeared 1655

 : lacking in candor; also: giving a false appearance of simple frankness:
CALCULATING

 -- dis*in*gen*u*ous*ly (adverb)

 -- dis*in*gen*u*ous*ness (noun)

Just wondering,

John

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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:09:29 -0400
From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights

Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
smashing front signals?

Heston
Winston-Salem, NC (near NC mountains)


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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:31:14 -0500
From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights

While it appears to be a good idea and looks pretty cool I've heard of the
Acerbis guard w/lights breaking pretty easily and usually not from crashes
but from bouncing the guards off of trees which is my riding style :-)

Brian Luttman
1999 WR400F
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Heston LaMar
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:09 AM
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
>
>
> Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
> the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
> a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
> signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
> smashing front signals?
>
> Heston
> Winston-Salem, NC (near NC mountains)
>
>
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>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 07:40:17 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.

>How's it going Bryan?

Doin' good Rob!  Finally getting cooler here in Dallas...much more fun
riding!

The pilot jet needle valve (yes, this is the air screw adjustment thing on
bottom of carb you've already drilled out to be able to adjust) controls the
fuel flow thru the pilot valve.  The T-handle is beneficial because it
replaces the stock air screw with one that extends past the bottom of the
carb w/ a little "T" so its easy to adjust without taking off (or at least
loosening/rotating) the carb to get to the stock airscrew thats up in there
a ways.  I've heard some guys are able to get up in there w/ something to
adjust the screw w/ the carb in place, but it HAS to be a hassel.  For $16
bucks, the T-handle is well worth it....dont even have to shut the bike off
to adjust pilot valve flow & see immediate difference for comparison.  If
you get the T-handle you will need to cut off about 1/3" of the little
magnesium housing that shrouds access to the existing air screw....its very
quick & easy to do.  You must do this to allow for clearance of the extended
T-handle over the starter.

Regarding ill effects of the disc-type exhausts (heat melting rear fender),
this is not a proplem w/ the FMFmegamax2....cause it has a little shield
that diverts exhaust gas from hitting the fender at its closest point.  Now
I DO have a slightly discolored part on the fender (which washes off w/ some
scrubbing), but no heat stress whatsoever.  I think the SuperTrapps that I
have seen on other bikes have NOT had such a diverter shield, and probably
would result in some melting.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

> >valve....do you have the Scott T-handle adjuster?
>
>I don't have this little gadget.  I have not done anything to the pilot jet
>needle valve.  I'm not even sure I know where that is.  Is that the air
>screw adjustment thing on the bottom of the carb?  If it is, I can try
>adjusting it 'cause I had the boys at the local shop drill out that cover
>Suzuki puts in there to prevent access.
>
>I want to get a T-handle but I don't know the first thing about how this
>adjustment affects the overall carb performance.  Does the T-handle stay in
>all the time or is it a tool you shove up in there when you want to adjust
>it?
>
> > The on-the-fly adjustment
> >of that baby is very nice.....lets you tune it in.  I have mine opened 2
> >turns out & have no flat spots anywhere in the revs.
>
>
>Now, you are exactly where I want to be.  I want smooth engine operation
>over the whole range.
>
> >Do you have a disc-type exhaust?  You might try adjusting on that end as
> >well; on my FMFMM2, I'm running all the disks w/ tiny washers stacked
> >between disks on the last 3 to open it up a little more...loud, but not
>too
> >loud, and alot quieter than running it fully uncorked (which gives me a
>flat
> >spot anyway).
>
>No, I'm stock with the exhaust.  I have been considering aftermarket pipes
>but I'm hesitant to go with a disc system because I've read that they can
>damage the rear fender because of the circumferential exhaust outlet.
>Have
>you exprienced any fender damage so far?
>
> >If you have stock can, you might consider cutting the end off
> >and pulling out the baffle....fellow lister Dave in the Dallas area did
>this
> >recently....how did it end up working Dave?
>
>
>Hmmm, I might have to give this a try if I can get the baffle out without
>grinding welds.  I haven't really looked at my exhaust setup yet.
>
> >Let us know how you do if you take the needle to the last notch....I
>noticed
> >an improvement going to the same notch you're at now, & might try the
>last
> >one to see if it gets even better.
>
>
>After I rode it tonight, I don't think I'm going to drop the clip again (I
>may however try it just for an experiment).  The engine was too hot after
>my
>ride to comfortably remove the spark plug without sizzling my fingers off,
>so I'll wait and look at it tomorrow.  I have a hunch that I maybe running
>a
>bit too ruch on the needle.  We'll see what the spark plug shows.
>
>And so the chase goes on........
>
>Thanks Bryan,
>Rob.
>
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:48:22 -0500
From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Cutting the can

OK, good news and bad news.
I took the stock exhaust and cut the end off and removed the baffle.I
welded the end back on, didn't want my kids stuffing hot wheels down inside
it. It diffinitely made a difference.I then put in a K&N air filter, a 135
main jet, and cut the top out of the airbox. Damn, what a difference.And
not too loud. Bryan(nolastname)'s DR with the fmf is louder, but not much.
I only cut the pipe because I was not sure which can I wanted to
buy.(Notice this is past tense.) I have now aquired a Honda CR250 and think
that this is the machine that I will be riding for a while. I really like
the dr and the magic button, but I am not sure I want to try and make it
into the bike I want and feel I need. I am a big guy (6'4" 205lbs.)
 planning to start racing cross country this next season in Texas and feel
I need a lighter and more flexable bike. This CR will hopefully not be the
bike I race, but is a stepping stone to what I think I will need. As for
the DR. I am letting a buddy of mine borrow it to ride at the lakes and
piddle around on. In exchange, I get to ride one of his 5 Harley's when
ever I get the itch for a road ride. I will stay on the list just for the
fact of knowing that there is an enormous amount of people here who are
very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. You never know. I just might buy
the new DR400 when it comes out, and this list is the best place to talk
about it.
Dave in Ft Worth.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 9:21:59 PDT
From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights

> Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
> the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
> a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
> signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
> smashing front signals?

  I haven't smashed one yet.  I was involved in a head on crash with
another bike where I figure the terminal velocity was about 50 mph.
His clutch lever broke when it went through my middle finger and I
think my handlebars got bent (I can't really tell).  I went over the
bars because of the sudden stop and my bike did a complete flip and
landed on its right side.  There wasn't one piece of plastic that
didn't get scratched (including the front number plate) yet the stock
rear turn signals survived (the right one came apart, but I just put
it back together).

  The stock front turn signals didn't even get scratched.  Their
placement is excellent in my opinion.  I go through brush, fall down
(a lot) and I haven't even scratched them yet.  I don't think they
need replacing so buying the Acerbis ones with indicators built in is
a waste of money to me.

  I have left on the stock front turn signals and I installed aluminum
bark busters.  I cut the stock plastic brush guards that come with the
bike and mounted them on the bark busters.  It looks just like stock
to the casual observer.  When you take a closer look you can see the
bark busters.  By putting those on I've saved braking levers, tearing
grips and maybe even bending handlebars.  It also seems to make the
handlebar set up a bit more stiffer (although I have no proof of
that).

- --
Scott Aldrich

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 11:01:37 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights

>Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
>the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
>a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
>signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
>smashing front signals?


I failed to install Acerbis guards in my stock '97 handlebars as they are plugged in
the end with a sold gob of steel. I tried drilling them with my hole hawg and ended
up going through the side of the handlebar wall. So, I've been waiting for the time
to put on new bars...

Kurt


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 15:56:35 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights

I just ordered the Acerbis hand guards w/lights.  While waiting for them to
come in,  I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  Jack
DR350SE 1997

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End of dr350-digest V1 #159
***************************