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dr350-digest       Wednesday, September 15 1999       Volume 01 : Number 157




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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 14:03:31 +0200
From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!

** High Priority **

>The lubricating oil never comes in contact with the gas in a four
stroke engine.

Sorry, Jeff, I have to disagree: all 4-strokes should have a certain
amount of oil present on the sleeve even after the piston has reached
the bottom of its stroke, and the oil rings have done their thing.

Most con-rods have a drilled pipe inside that actually pumps oil up
onto the bottom of the piston, and which then splashes onto the bore. I
must admit that we're talking about an oil layer only microns thick, but
it is neccesary for the continued health of your rings and cylinder
bore.

Yes, a slightly rich mixture can do no harm: but running an excessive
mixture (like riding with the choke circuit on) will definitely cause
harm.

That's why most bike and car manufacturers request that you should only
run the choke if it is absolutely mandatory to keep the engine turning.

Regards

Jakes


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 06:21:24 -0700
From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great

Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Three weeks ago I crashed my DR on a trail ride which put me in the
> hospital for a broken and dislocated wrist.
> Safety equipment to protect my wrists is pretty slim, however the real
> reason I'm telling you about this incident is to explain what else happened
> as a result of my crash.
snip
> I normally wear, jeans, gloves, long sleeve shirt, full face helmet MX
> Boots and goggles.  Because I also took a pretty good punch in the chest
> I'm adding a Chest Protector for my wife, my son, and myself.  Additionally
> any padding, leg or shoulder protection is a plus.  When I ride my street
> bike I'm in full leathers most of the time regardless of the heat index and
> at the very least a jacket and jeans if we're heading into resturant or
> some other place I'll need to rub elbows with people for a length of time.
>
> Take care,
> Eric

Hey guys,
    I'd forget about the Levi's for riding pants. They will
shred when you slide on any hard surface, leaving your legs
to shred next. Get some good riding pants, and glare back at
the people who stare when you enter a restaurant. They're
probably the ones who don't where their seat belts anyway.
Don't they look when you go in with full leathers on? Don't
worry about them and their problems, worry about the body,
they are hard to fix.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
http://www.mikthebik.com/

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:20:26 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Forks

Hi Mike, I have done just what you are thinking about. I bought a set of RM250 forks
1987's I believe 88's are conventionals also. they slip right into your triple clamps
how ever you will have to get new bearings for the front wheel the axle is larger on
the RM but this is OK they make the same OD bearing with different bore sizes. the only
other problem is the spacers may need a little adjustment then you are good to go.
These forks are cartrige forks the guy I sold them to really likes them. I bought some
45mm Marzocci unts and am happy with them I had to get creative to get them to work
also. The 87 forks cost me  $ 225.00 at a salvage yard . Be sure to check the insides
and put in new oil and seals before you bolt them on. I believe this would be the most
cost effective of the choices and still get a good set of forks. I think they would be
superior to the emulator mod. You will have 1inch more travel,  compression dampening
and rebound dampening with the rm forks, you may have to run them a little high in the
triple clamps to balance out the front 12" vs 11" rear travel.  Gee I do carry dont"I ,
Hope this gives you some Help in your choices.
Regards  Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Jesse,
>  I would be interested to hear your opinion on this mans letter.
> Thanks
> Mike A.
> Nashville
>
> In a message dated 9/13/99 7:39:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Hi guys,
>
>  Since I replaced the stock shock for a WP unit, the forks behaviour
>  seem even worse...
>
>  So I am thinking to upgrade the forks. I have already got it revalved,
>  new springs, new oil, etc... but it still isn't as good as for example
>  my buddy's XR400R stock forks.
>
>  I was thinking about one of the 3 options :
>
>  1. Buy used RM forks from a used parts dealer. Which RM model (year)
>  has forks that fit a 93 DR-S ?
>
>  2. Buy Race-Tech fork cartridge emulators $124.95 (WB p/n 11-509 page
>  220). By the WB catalog it seems there aren't Race-Tech fork gold
>  valves available for the '93 DRS, right ?
>
>  3. Race-Tech fork cartridge conversion kit $428.51 (WB p/n 11-506 page
>  219). Is this worth it ? Is it better to buy this kit or to buy a used
>  set of RM forks (more risky in my opinion...).
>
>  If money wasn't an issue (but it is...), which one is probably give me
>  that state-of-the-art fork feeling ?
>
>  Please e-mail me your opinions and comments.
>
>  Thanks in advance. >>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 13:18:17 -0400
From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FLORIDA DUAL SPORT

The Flyer And Entry Form For The 1999 Seminole Wind Dual Sport Ride, On
November 6, 1999 in Eureka, Florida has been posted on the Withlacoochee
Dual Sport Riders Webpage at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245

Check It Out!

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet"


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:50:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) Exhuast

what is the best exhuast for the money?I am leaning towards the FMF
megamax2 but a friend toldme of a FMF powercore5 for the DR.A few bucks
more but anyone heard of it?


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:59:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) header pipe

Here goes a silly idea tell me what you guys think.On race cars at the
track some guys wrap the headers on the motor with a cloth like
tape.This  reduces engine bay temps and keeps the motor running
cooler.Think this would work-help the DR's?Just a thought let me know
what you guys think.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 22:05:43 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) header pipe

In a message dated 9/14/99 9:02:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Here goes a silly idea  >>


Yep!  : )

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:08:28 -0700
From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi all,

I worked on my bike again today to see if I could solve my hesitation =
problem.  When I wheeled that bike out onto the driveway to work on it, =
I was in a zone.  I had the carb off, pilot jet re-installed, needle jet =
clip lowered one more notch to second to last groove from bottom, and =
the bike put fully back together in 47 minutes.  I was a man with a =
mission.

So I take the bike for my road test.  I didn't know what to think, but I =
crossed my fingers and took off.  To make a long story short, the =
hesitation is STILL there but is less intense and shorter in length.  =
The throttle response is better and the rpm range where the hesitation =
shows up is narrower. =20

Before adjusting the carb, the hesitation showed from 4000-4800 rpms =
while twisting  throttle from about 1/5 open or more.

Now, the hesitation shows up from 3800-4200 rpms while twisting the =
throttle 1/3 open or more.  This may not sound like much improvement, =
but it really is.  The bike is much peppier than it was yesterday.  And =
since the hesitation is way down in the functional rpm range my problem =
is mostly solved as I rarely run the bike below 4500 rpm off road.  I =
got a little more high end power which I attribute to raising the needle =
a notch.

However, the fact remains that the hesitation has not completely =
disappeared yet.  This sort of sticks me in the side a bit.  I MUST have =
perfect engine operation, and since I can fully re-jet this baby in less =
than an hour I hope to try more combinations soon.  I'm obsessed with =
it, I admit it, what can I say.

Now, I must ask if anybody here has any further suggestions.  Do I dare =
take the needle clip all the way down to the bottom notch?  Does anybody =
run their JX needle fully raised up?

Would a hotter plug do anything for this situation? =20

Thanks again guys, you've been a great help through all this.

Rob.






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Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I worked on my bike again today to see if I =
could solve=20
my hesitation problem.  When I wheeled that bike out onto the =
driveway to=20
work on it, I was in a zone.  I had the carb off, pilot jet =
re-installed,=20
needle jet clip lowered one more notch to second to last groove from =
bottom, and=20
the bike put fully back together in 47 minutes.  I was a man with a =

mission.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>So I take the bike for my road test.  I =
didn't=20
know what to think, but I crossed my fingers and took off.  To make =
a long=20
story short, the hesitation is STILL there but is less intense and =
shorter in=20
length.  The throttle response is better and the rpm range where =
the=20
hesitation shows up is narrower.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Before adjusting the carb, the hesitation =
showed from=20
4000-4800 rpms while twisting  throttle from about 1/5 open or=20
more.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now, the hesitation shows up from 3800-4200 =
rpms while=20
twisting the throttle 1/3 open or more.  This may not sound like =
much=20
improvement, but it really is.  The bike is much peppier than it =
was=20
yesterday.  And since the hesitation is way down in the functional =
rpm=20
range my problem is mostly solved as I rarely run the bike below 4500 =
rpm off=20
road.  I got a little more high end power which I attribute to =
raising the=20
needle a notch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>However, the fact remains that the hesitation =
has not=20
completely disappeared yet.  This sort of sticks me in the side a=20
bit.  I MUST have perfect engine operation, and since I can fully =
re-jet=20
this baby in less than an hour I hope to try more combinations =
soon.  I'm=20
obsessed with it, I admit it, what can I say.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Now, I must ask if anybody here has any further suggestions.  =
Do I=20
dare take the needle clip all the way down to the bottom notch?  =
Does=20
anybody run their JX needle fully raised up?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Would a hotter plug do anything for this situation?  </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks again guys, you've been a great help through all this.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Rob.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BEFEF5.4AEC5F00--


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 01:38:28 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) header pipe

In a message dated 9/14/99 10:02:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Here goes a silly idea >>

Ditto

<<This  reduces engine bay temps and keeps the motor running
 cooler.Think this would work-help the DR's?Just a thought let me know
 what you guys think.  >>

Engine bay? Last time I checked my motor was pretty much hangin' out in the
breeze.......

Mike
' 93 DR350

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 02:10:12 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhuast

Ya know, before ya plunk down a wad a cash for a "performance" exhaust, take
a good look at your bike. Is it pretty much bone stock? If it is, then the
best exhaust system for the bike is the one the factory put on. Ya see the
trouble with "performance" exhausts on big 4-stroke bikes is that in order
for them to be truely effective at makin' great gobs of God's own Horse Power
an'  Torque, they gotta be INCREDIBLY LOUD. Your gonna drop at least $300
bucks for some Flash Gordon gizmo with absolutely no moving parts to gain a
massive 5 to 7 percent increase in Horse Power (if you believe what the ad
men are saying). Lets see, your basic, stock DR350 humps out about 30HP on a
good day...maybe....and, according to my math, that wad o' cash will get you
a whopping 2.1HP. Ah, but the weight you say....think of the great weight
savings by replacing the cast iron, lead weighted  stock system......You'll
save maybe 10 or 15 lbs....think you'll REALLY notice it on a 275-300 pound
bike the next time you do a face plant? I.M. not so H.O., I'd spend that 300
bucks that's burnin' a hole in your pocket on suspension improvements; Kouba
link, dialing in the front forks, setting the proper sag, etc. You wanna make
some extra HP, carve the top off your airbox, stuff a good aftermarket filter
in it and then dial in the jetting......these are REALLY cheap mods and
they'll make the bike run much better.

Unless you're gonna put a big bore kit and cam on the bike, an aftermarket
exhaust is a bigtime waste of money. All you'll get for your hard earned cash
is a kewl looking exhaust pipe and a very loud bike. Like where you
ride?....Ride quietly so you can.....

Mike
' 93 DR350
sans "performance" exhaust

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End of dr350-digest V1 #157
***************************