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dr350-digest       Saturday, September 11 1999       Volume 01 : Number 153




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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 21:09:29 -0700
From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale

- -----Original Message-----
From:    The Strickler's [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent:    Friday, September 10, 1999 12:08 AM
To:    '[e-mail]'
Subject:    1996 DR 350SE for Sale


For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals)  and much much more
                Great Looking Great Runniing! In Reno Nevada.  $2800.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]
[Strickler]

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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:08:27 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Ohlins Suspensions

Hi Mike, I have an ohlins shock on my 90 DR and it is fully adjustable comp and rebound
very tuneable and expensive $865.00  my last big blow before I retired. the cost is a
little more due to PPS adjusting it for 1 inch more travel to match my 45mm marzocci
forks. I would almost bet that they make forks for the DR also. check with PPS in
southern CA they are ohlins distributors.1-714-630-4777
Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Does anyone know if Olins make forks and shocks for th DR. If so are they
> fully adjustable? Also what are the costs and benifits. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>  Mike A.
> Nashville
> 94 DR dirt only
>
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 10:39:31 -0400
From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) ohilns

i am running ohlins fully ajustable rear shock,and it is pretty easy to s=
et
up as i was away on a 1000mile trip with my darr (aluminium) panniers etc=
,
ihad it set for the weight and road ,then when their gear dumped a couple=

of turns of the knobs and minutes later i was in the mountains. go for it=

not the cheapest but really good.
                            =

                                            stevie(scotland)

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 14:08:45 -0400
From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GEORGIA DUAL SPORT RIDE!

The Tallahassee Trail Riders Are Still Accepting Entries For The AMSTERDAM
DSR, In Amsterdam. georgia (Just Outside Of Bainbridge GA, And Just north Of
Tallahassee, FL) to be held Saturday and Sunday, September 18/19.

Proceeds Benefit Project Learning Tree, a mobile interactive display
teaching students and educators about forest management.

Contact David Norman at 850/539-5334 After 6pm

Or Get An Entry Form From The Dual Sport Website:
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 15:35:17 -0700
From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi all,

I'm fairly new to this list and I already am in need of suggestions.  I =
had my '94 DR350S out last weekend for a desert ride.  Everything was =
running great.  I come to this intersection in the trail and I stop =
suddenly because I wasn't sure which way I wanted go.  Anyway, I lose my =
balance right when I come to a complete stop and the bike teeters over =
onto the right hand side.  I tried with all my strength to hold it up =
but I was too off balance couldn't do it.  It was just one of those slow =
gradual falls.

This leads me to my problem now.  Ever since this happened I experience =
an engine hesitation at around 3500-4000 rpms when I get on the =
throttle.  I don't have to open the throttle all the way for it happen.  =
Even just like 1/3 of a turn is enough.  It just hesitates for only a =
fraction of a second and then it catches and everything is fine.  So I =
figure I better check this out and off comes the carb.  I was thinking =
maybe i had some debris inside the carb or something.  I take it all =
apart and don't really see anything wrong.  Since I had the carb off I =
lowered the clip on the needle to raise it up a notch and richen the =
mixture a bit. =20

I put everything back together and started the bike up.  I took it out =
on the road and started goosing it at 4000 rpms to see if the hesitation =
is still there.  It wasn't and it was running great.  So I figure I'm =
golden now.  However, after a few minutes of riding time when all the =
engine and carb components are up to normal operating temperature the =
hesitation returned!  I was bummed. =20

Pilot jet =3D 40
Main Jet =3D 140
needle =3D 4th notch down (the Thumper Racing needle)
altitude =3D 2500 feet or so
air temp =3D usually between 85 to 100 degrees

I just put a brand new spark plug in it.  But I have no idea what is =
going on.  The bike still runs fine and I'm going riding again tomorrow, =
but I'm sort of a nut with this bike and I want it to operate perfectly.

Instead of the carb, could be it be an ignition problem?

Can someone please rescue me before I pull all my hair out?  I want this =
thing dialed in just right.  Thank you all for any suggestions, =
recommendations, advice, etc. =20

Rob.


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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I'm fairly new to this =
list and I=20
already am in need of suggestions.  I had my '94 DR350S out last =
weekend=20
for a desert ride.  Everything was running great.  I come to =
this=20
intersection in the trail and I stop suddenly because I wasn't sure =
which way I=20
wanted go.  Anyway, I lose my balance right when I come to a =
complete stop=20
and the bike teeters over onto the right hand side.  I tried with =
all my=20
strength to hold it up but I was too off balance couldn't do it.  =
It was=20
just one of those slow gradual falls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>This leads me to my =
problem now. =20
Ever since this happened I experience an engine hesitation at around =
3500-4000=20
rpms when I get on the throttle.  I don't have to open the throttle =
all the=20
way for it happen.  Even just like 1/3 of a turn is enough.  =
It just=20
hesitates for only a fraction of a second and then it catches and =
everything is=20
fine.  So I figure I better check this out and off comes the =
carb.  I=20
was thinking maybe i had some debris inside the carb or something.  =
I take=20
it all apart and don't really see anything wrong.  Since I had the =
carb off=20
I lowered the clip on the needle to raise it up a notch and richen the =
mixture a=20
bit.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I put everything back =
together and=20
started the bike up.  I took it out on the road and started goosing =
it at=20
4000 rpms to see if the hesitation is still there.  It wasn't and =
it was=20
running great.  So I figure I'm golden now.  However, after a =
few=20
minutes of riding time when all the engine and carb components are up to =
normal=20
operating temperature the hesitation returned!  I was bummed.  =

</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Pilot jet =3D =
40</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Main Jet =3D =
140</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>needle =3D 4th notch down =
(the Thumper=20
Racing needle)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT>altitude =3D 2500 =
feet or so</DIV>
<DIV>air temp =3D usually between 85 to 100 degrees</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I just put a brand new =
spark plug in=20
it.  But I have no idea what is going on.  The bike still runs =
fine=20
and I'm going riding again tomorrow, but I'm sort of a nut with this =
bike and I=20
want it to operate perfectly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Instead of the carb, could be it be an =
ignition=20
problem?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Can someone please rescue =
me before I=20
pull all my hair out?  I want this thing dialed in just =
right.  Thank=20
you all for any suggestions, recommendations, advice, etc.  =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Rob.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" =
size=3D3></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 19:19:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!

Rob
You need not be a nut to want your bike to run perfectly.I would accept
nothing less.How did your bike run with the 40 pilot?Word on this site
is that is way to big for a stock bore bike.It's even big for a 435 from
what I 've been told.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 21:48:47 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`

I know everyone on this list knows this, but recently, as we were singing
the praises of various dual sports, no one mentioned three unique features
of the DRS:

1.  Nearly vibration free engine.  Of my three bikes (R1100, KTM), my Suzuki
has the least vibration.  The counterbalanced engine is nearly electric
motor smooth, from idle to red line.

2.  Six speed transmission.  Some things you can upgrade on a bike, the
transmission you are stuck with.  Six speeds allows one to keep the bike in
a narrow rpm range at just about all speeds.  Shifting is smooth as silk,
too.

3.  Tachometer.  The XR's don't have one.  This is a very nice feature for
the DRS owner that wants to hop up the engine.

All three features make the bike particularly suited to engine upgrades.
With my 400cc, 3/4 race cam, etc., the bike comes on the pipe at about 6000
rpm, and just loves to rev, right up to red line.  I can zip around on fast
gravel roads, running up and down the gears, always right in the bikes
powerband, with little or no vibration.  When racing my friend on his XR650,
I generally beat him out of corners because of the burst of power available
to me.

These three features are hard to find on any other dual sport that I know
of.

Tom Warr   Bikermaniac
Great Falls, Montana
[e-mail]


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 23:01:17 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vacuum line of the carb

>Only the SE models have a vacuum line that controls the automatic fuel tap.


Well, my 1990 DRS 350 had (till I changed to the Acerbis tank) a vacuum
line, too.  It ran from towards the front of the carb back to the pet cock,
on the left side.  Intake vacuum allowed fuel to flow from the pet cock when
in the "open"
position (fuel flowed freely with a dead engine in the "prime" position).

TW



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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #153
***************************