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dr350-digest           Friday, June 11 1999           Volume 01 : Number 077




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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 10:38:36 PDT
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no DR) Thanks for help w/ the CR-125

Thanks to all you guys who replied w/ advice on getting my recently-aquired
CR125 started.  The new spark plug + tipping to left to get fuel flowing out
the overflow tube did the trick...started right up.

Seems that on closer inspection, the old plug had a seriously eroded
electrode (I think  thats what it is...the round thing that comes up thru
middle...not the bent tang on top).  It was uniformly eroded to where it was
a perfect circle, but less than 1/2 the area of a new plug.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 10:39:40 PDT
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) oil weight & wierd clutch operation

On my bike, after a cold start, when I put it in gear, its like the clutch
is partially out even though I have it fully engaged....the bike will go
forward on its own at idle w/ clutch fully pulled in.  The clutch is
definitely adjusted properly.   After its hot, this problem goes away
completely.

What effect could the weight of the oil be having on this?  I've got
Castorol 10/50 in it now, but it also did this w/ 10/40.  I am about to have
2 months or so of 100+degree weather, so I'd like to keep the extra
protection of the heavier oil.

Could this be an indication of wear on any of the clutch components?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 10:40:07 PDT
From: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) best price I found on a MT-21

I called most of the major mail order places yesterday, and found that Baja
Designs   (www.bajadesigns.com) had the best price on a 120/90 -18 rear
Pirelli MT-21 at $56.

Bryan in Dallas
DR350SE


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 13:41:52 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Impressions...

I've been so busy getting my KLR ready for the Moab Rally I wasn't able to really put any
miles on the DR. Besides, it is pretty much my SO, Kimberly's bike. But I'm now mounting
up some aluminum panniers and repacking my Supertrapp on the KLR so it gives me an
opportunity to put some miles on the DR.

Here are some impressions:

1) I hate the seat very uncomfortable. I tried Gino's gel seat made by Travelcade for
Suzuki and it is an improvement but I wonder if anyone has tried a Corbin? It loooks like
it has the same dip as the KLR and a lot of us have talked them into building the seat w/o
the dip...we call it the "modified Corbin" ....

2) The front end has a very light feel (on the road)

3) The handlebars and front end together make the bike feel small to me...in not such a
good way...

4) I need to learn to keep the revs up a bit higher than the KLR and not short shift away
from the powerband

5) With Tim Bernard's sideracks Ortlieb Dry Bags fit fine on the rear.

6) I don't like the square/triangular mirrors

7) I do like the push cancel turn signals

8) The front end is way too soft...

9) Even with the snorkel out the motor seems "boggy" in response

More coming...

Kurt

Kurt


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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 14:42:53 -0500
From: "William Slade" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

Hello!
I am replacing the crappy mild-steel handlebars on my 92 DR350S, and would
like to know what folks think about the Factory Connection (or similar)
handlebar clamp adapters that allow one to use Pro-taper handlebars. Does
anyone have experience with these clamp adapters? I wouldn't mind some
additional rise to the bars & mounts, either, to cut down on the reach to
the bars whilst standing (I'm abt. 6'0").

If anyone has a good argument why I should just buy some 7/8" AL Renthals
(or similar) instead of trying Pro-tapers, I'd like to hear it. I've seen
nothing but good reviews of the Pro-tapers, but I'm trying to avoid the
costs of a full tripleclamp setup (which also requires buying/making a
gauge-spacing plate).

Keep up the good postings & thanks for any input re. my questions!
Will Slade



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 13:48:22 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

>>If anyone has a good argument why I should just buy some 7/8" AL Renthals
(or similar) instead of trying Pro-tapers, I'd like to hear it. I've seen
nothing but good reviews of the Pro-tapers, but I'm trying to avoid the
costs of a full tripleclamp setup (which also requires buying/making a
gauge-spacing plate).<<

I have the lowrise Protapers in the DR(much like the CR) bend.  I use the
Answer Protaper Universal adapters.  I never cared for the bend of the stock
bars.  The Protapers have a much more flatter, comfortable bend that I like.

Gino


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 18:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: Re: (dr350) oil weight & wierd clutch operation

It's a bit pricy but I use Castrol synthetic oil 5w40.10 bucks a qrt
here in New York.This is FULL synthetic oil and is a thinner weight than
recommened but only when the engine is cold.Once the motor gets to
operating temp it is just as thick as conventional oil as the weight
does not thin out with temp increase.This is also a plus with cold start
ups as the thinner oil flows better in the motor offering better
protection at the most damaging time for any  four stroke motor;initial
start up.There is not even a hint of clutch slip as the castrol does not
have a certain additive other companies use that will promote clutch
slippage.I know a few guys who use it in high 9 second street bikes with
5 times the hp of our DR with no slippage and even picked up a tenth or
two on the e.t's.Synthetic oil also vaporizes about 30 degrees higher
than conventional oil an advantage with our air cooled bikes in hot
temps. Any comments welcomed guys.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 20:24:02 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) oil weight & wierd clutch operation

Bryan;

I think it is a common trait of wet clutches to drag a little when the oil is
cold. When starting my bike for the first time, I like to let it warm up a
bit before riding off. I'll start it and then don the remainder of my riding
gear (it's a dirt only version). The bike will lurch a bit more when cold and
I shift it into gear, but it is relatively easy to keep in place; it doesn't
move off. I don't know of any bike that won't do that when the
gearbox/crankcase oil is cold. Now if your bike REALLY gets on the move when
you engage a gear with it cold, then I'd say you've got an out of rig clutch
(adjustment or internal wear) You might try running the 10w40 the factory
recommends (don't the street versions have oil coolers?) or go with a full
synthetic oil. I run Castrol's 5w40 synth bike oil and it is great stuff, if
a little pricey ($9.95/qt). But hey, isn't your baby worth it?

Mike
'93 DR350

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 20:30:32 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

I mounted a set of Renthal bars on my dirt only DR and like 'em a lot.
'Course bars are like women, you try 'em out 'til you find one that feels
good. The Renthals work with the stock mounts, Pro Tapers don't (extra bucks
involved to get the clamps). Also, if you're gonna fit the bike with brush
guards you're gonna pay more for the guards to fit the Pro-Taper bars (again
with the extra bucks).

Mike
'93DR350

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 09:47:04 -0400
From: "Bret Gergely" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

I just installed pro-taper enduro bend bars on my 96' DR350 and used the
adapter kit sold by answer.  I think they are great.  I also put on
pro-taper hand guards ($60) with the moose plastic ($25).  They look cool
and protect my hands very well but they were a bitch to put on.  I had cut
the knobs off my levers, cut a half inch off both sides on my brand new
handlbars, cut the new moose plastic guards, drill holes in my bark busters,
drill a hole in the throttle tube,  and it was a pain to get the grip off
the throttle tube (I took it to my bench grinder for about a half an hour.
The hole deal took me about three hours.  I also don't recommend Renthal
bars, though they do look cool they bend almost as easily as stock (unless
your talking about the new twinwalls).  Oh yeah does anyone know a
replacement screw for the left panel on a dirt only DR.  It is the one that
takes a half turn to get in and out.  Normal screw won't thread into it for
some reason.

P.S. the new smith grips are great.

Bret Gergely
95 DR350SE
96 DR350
and my dad is the proud new owner of a WR400F wich at the moment won't
start.  Fast for a four-stoker though.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Pokluda, Gino F <[e-mail]>
To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Date: Friday, June 11, 1999 3:38 PM
Subject: RE: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers


>>>If anyone has a good argument why I should just buy some 7/8" AL Renthals
>(or similar) instead of trying Pro-tapers, I'd like to hear it. I've seen
>nothing but good reviews of the Pro-tapers, but I'm trying to avoid the
>costs of a full tripleclamp setup (which also requires buying/making a
>gauge-spacing plate).<<
>
>I have the lowrise Protapers in the DR(much like the CR) bend.  I use the
>Answer Protaper Universal adapters.  I never cared for the bend of the
stock
>bars.  The Protapers have a much more flatter, comfortable bend that I
like.
>
>Gino
>
>
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 22:42:34 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) trailer

Just bought a 4x8' trailer with 14" tires for $75.  It has rotten wood
but a sturdy steel frame with side rails and good tires and bearings.
I'll be spending the weekend and about $50 repairing it.  Thanks to all
for suggesting a trailer with large tires.

Chuck Vokac - Panama City, FL

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 22:37:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: Re: (dr350) oil weight & wierd clutch operation

The street versions do not have the oil cooler only the DR 650 has it.I
personally do not like the set up.If you dump deep in the woods and
puncture it or snap a line your done.My friends XR400 has the best
designed oil cooler i've seen it's shaped like a kidney and mounts
around the head tube of the frame(under the headlight housing) and made
of tough aluminum fins nearly impossible to bust it up.I wish they would
come out with a similar one for our DR.I dont think it would be as cool
the motor as good as the 650's but its better than nothing and a lot
safer.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 20:19:57 +0200
From: "Christian R." <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) unsubscribe

unsubscribe





   _\|/_
   /     \
  |\/     |
  |  (o)(o)
  C   ,---_)
   | |,___|
   |  \__/
   /_____\    Ouhlalalalala, des donuts


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 22:08:23 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Impressions...

I have a Corbin seat on my DRS350 - also made without the dip just in front
of the tank.  Just specify that when you order.  Mine looks very nice
(IMHO), dark gray with blue piping to match the bike.  Seems to have good
quality - it has held up well for several years now.  Very comfortable - if
I get tired after riding a while, it is not because of a sore butt.

The seat still slopes forwards, but at speed, the wind pushes me back
neutralizing the tendancy slide forward.  Around town, though, with stop and
go, sliding forward can get old.

Also, the seat is wide in the back (which makes it comfortable to sit on),
but I have to bow my knees while standing on the pegs.  I still ride on the
motocross track and trail ride with it, though.  It just makes standing on
the pegs a bit more trouble.

Finally, it lowers the seat an inch or two, which is nice.

Good investment, IMHO.  TW

PS  I know what you mean about the free revving nature of the DR engine.
The 6 speed trans is especially nice to keep the engine right on the power
band at all speeds.  Fun.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 22:16:25 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

>>>If anyone has a good argument why I should just buy some 7/8" AL Renthals
>(or similar) instead of trying Pro-tapers, I'd like to hear it.

I have Renthals.  They are without question stronger than stock bars.  I
like the cross bar, as I can mount stuff to it (like a GPS mount).  I have
Acerbis brush guards and air dams, with I very highly recommend for
increased protection of your hands (from wind) and your controls (from
crashes).

I didn't want to spend the $$ on the Protapers.  TW


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 21:29:47 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers

Bret, I have the answer for your problem side cover screw. I had the same
problem I have a kit which consists of a Dzus stud spring loop and keeper +
rivets that replaces the whole works for $6.95 and you won't lose the stud
because it stays with the side cover.You drill out the existing rivets and
install the spring in place of the stock reciever{ the part the stock screw
fastened into} with the new rivets then put the stud in your side cover slip the
keeper washer over it slip a 5/16 washer over the keeper and stud then place a
socket over the stud with support under the stud head then hit the socket and
this sets the keeper around the stud so it stays in the side cover. I have them
including instructions if any one needs one. Jesse

Bret Gergely wrote:

> I just installed pro-taper enduro bend bars on my 96' DR350 and used the
> adapter kit sold by answer.  I think they are great.  I also put on
> pro-taper hand guards ($60) with the moose plastic ($25).  They look cool
> and protect my hands very well but they were a bitch to put on.  I had cut
> the knobs off my levers, cut a half inch off both sides on my brand new
> handlbars, cut the new moose plastic guards, drill holes in my bark busters,
> drill a hole in the throttle tube,  and it was a pain to get the grip off
> the throttle tube (I took it to my bench grinder for about a half an hour.
> The hole deal took me about three hours.  I also don't recommend Renthal
> bars, though they do look cool they bend almost as easily as stock (unless
> your talking about the new twinwalls).  Oh yeah does anyone know a
> replacement screw for the left panel on a dirt only DR.  It is the one that
> takes a half turn to get in and out.  Normal screw won't thread into it for
> some reason.
>
> P.S. the new smith grips are great.
>
> Bret Gergely
> 95 DR350SE
> 96 DR350
> and my dad is the proud new owner of a WR400F wich at the moment won't
> start.  Fast for a four-stoker though.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pokluda, Gino F <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Friday, June 11, 1999 3:38 PM
> Subject: RE: (dr350) Question abt. Answer Pro-tapers
>
> >>>If anyone has a good argument why I should just buy some 7/8" AL Renthals
> >(or similar) instead of trying Pro-tapers, I'd like to hear it. I've seen
> >nothing but good reviews of the Pro-tapers, but I'm trying to avoid the
> >costs of a full tripleclamp setup (which also requires buying/making a
> >gauge-spacing plate).<<
> >
> >I have the lowrise Protapers in the DR(much like the CR) bend.  I use the
> >Answer Protaper Universal adapters.  I never cared for the bend of the
> stock
> >bars.  The Protapers have a much more flatter, comfortable bend that I
> like.
> >
> >Gino
> >
> >
> >Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >
>
> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.


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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #77
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