home
***
CD-ROM
|
disk
|
FTP
|
other
***
search
/
ftp.xmission.com
/
2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar
/
ftp.xmission.com
/
pub
/
lists
/
dr350
/
archive
/
v01.n066
< prev
next >
Wrap
Internet Message Format
|
1999-06-01
|
14KB
From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest)
To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #66
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr350-digest Tuesday, June 1 1999 Volume 01 : Number 066
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:38:37 -0700
From: "bisho6" <Bisho6@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit
Please help, I live in Antioch California (about 40 minutes from San
Francisco) and have been unable to locate any used (unthrashed,
realistically riced) DR350s for sale. I've tried the trader, excite,
hotcoco.com classifieds, etc.
Please help... do you have any suggestions?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com>
To: <MILLFAM@webtv.net>; <dr350@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:59 AM
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 04:39:39 EDT
From: TCrowe1234@aol.com
Subject: (dr350) 385 kit jetting
hi guys i own a dr350se 1991 im getting a 385 kit for it what is the best
jetting to use with the standard carb
tony
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:34:36 -0400
From: "Keith Browning" <husky350@sprynet.com>
Subject: (dr350) Rejetting carb; Kenda Tires
I just rejetted my carb and adjusted the air screw on my 96 DR350S.
I opened up the airbox and put in the Thumper needle and spring earlier,
with no noticeable effect. I got a 135 and a 140 main, my dealer didn't
stock any pilot jets. Installation was pretty easy, although the screws on
the bottom of the carb were very tight and almost stripped them getting
them
out. I put in the 140 main and turned the airscrew to about 2.5 turns
out.
Finally, I can feel a difference! Under full throttle, especially
above 5500 rpm, the bike pulls much stronger. Before it was pretty weak in
the higher RPM's. Also, the backfiring has almost completely gone away.
Before drilling out the air screw the idle was set right at 1500 rpm. Once
I drilled out the plug, I found that the screw was all the way in. After
turning it out to 2.5 turns it idled a bit higher, around 2000 rpm I think.
Is there any way to adjust this without removing the carb or getting the
Scott's T-handle? Or should I even worry about it?
So now I have the following mods: Cut out airbox (4X5 inch square),
White Power filter, Thumper needle (with clip one position down from stock)
and spring, 140 main jet, and air screw drilled and set to 2.5 turns out.
A
definite improvement under full throttle acceleration but nothing I can
tell
at lower revs.
I also got a set of Kenda Trackmasters. I had a rear Trackmaster
tire before and was happy with it (for off-road performance) so I thought
I'd get a front and a rear - BIG mistake! I haven't had it off-road since
putting on the new tires, I've just been using it to commute to work - they
SUCK on the street. It makes the bike almost an inch taller over stock,
they slide easily (this morning backing the bike down my driveway the front
was sliding across rough concrete!) and make the bike very squirrelly.
Before the bike begged to be leaned hard into turns - now it fights it and
give very un-reassuring feedback. Quite frankly I am surprised they are
even DOT legal. If there is a moral to the story I guess it's that a dual
sport can't do both on and off-road extremely well. Since most of my miles
are on the street I think I might put the old tires back on and just use
the
knobbies for dual sport rides and longer dirt rides.
What I'd really like to do though is get a complete set of front and
rear wheels- I'd love to see what this bike could do with a set of pure
street tires on it. If I could get a complete 90 or 91 DR350 or 350S cheap
would the wheels, rotors, and sprockets be the same?
Has anyone had any luck with aftermarket seats or the Suzuki gel
seat? I think I would need a more comfortable seat for longer street rides
- - any suggestions?
Thanks,
Keith
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:48:24 -0400
From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com>
Subject: (dr350) Oil cooler, and other stuff..
Has anybody heard of an oil cooler for the dr350? I remember reading
about people putting them on their bikes or something, and it was
available from Suzuki... I dont know if it would even be worth it...
By the way, I had a killer weekend in the George Washington
National Forest this weekend, in Virginia. There are enough fire roads
in that park to build a road from NY to CA!! I have owned the bike for
about three years and that was the first time I had ever done some
serious off road riding. (long story.) I was amazed at how well the
bike ran, and handled the rough roads and rocks. I was also happy with
the rear tire, I spent 46 bucks on a cheng shin that I thought was
junk. I think it has turned out to be a good "budget" tire, its not
the best dirt tire, but it was predictable and offered fairly good
traction.
I met a couple of guys up there also riding dual sport bikes, one was
street legal xr200, the other was a klr250. I rode both bikes and was
not impressed by either, at least compared to my bike. If I were to
buy a second bike for my girlfriend or for friends to ride, it would be
the xr though. I have heard of guys beating the heck out of those
things and they still live. The klr was way too fat and weak for me, I
would never be satisfied with that thing.
At any rate, it was a great weekend, the most important thing I
learned was the importance of tire pressure. I was initially running
about 30 pounds in both tires, and everything was scary, I would creep
around corners because the front end would wash out. I aired down to
about 15 pounds and my confidence around corners doubled. Do not
underestimate the importance of tire pressure!!
Take care
PJ
94se
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:43:00 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Oil cooler
Patrick.
I have the Zook OEM, but they no longer make or sell it. White Bros. has one
made by Jagg; someone else needs to comment on its quality - I understand the
hoses did not come with pre-formed bends, so you'd have to have that done by a
hydraulic shop. Did I get it right Bryan?
I bought it to go with the 441cc kit, thinking the added cooling couldn't hurt
and may very well prolong life, although reports of meltdowns have yet to
surface. The protective guard has been bashed but not the cooler itself; its
tucked reasonably well under the tank, adjacent to the front down tube
John
>Has anybody heard of an oil cooler for the dr350? I remember reading
about people putting them on their bikes or something, and it was
available from Suzuki... I dont know if it would even be worth it...
>PJ
94se
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:06:57 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Oil cooler
> I have the Zook OEM, but they no longer make or sell it. White Bros. has one
> made by Jagg; someone else needs to comment on its quality - I understand the
> hoses did not come with pre-formed bends, so you'd have to have that done by a
> hydraulic shop. Did I get it right Bryan?
Yup. I have the Jagg cooler, but have yet to install it. The problem is
that I haven't yet figured out a way to install it such that the overall
solution would be more, and not less, reliable than what I'm currently
running (i.e. cooler oil vs. a complete loss of oil when a hose
kinks/breaks).
The problem is all the hose bends, and John mentions. There are a total of
three 180-degree, small radius bends that have to be made, and the simple
fuel line rubber tubing that is included in the kit just looks like it will
hopelessly kink, especially when hot.
The cooler itself looks pretty decent -- it's a unit about 3" by 10" or so,
perhaps 1.5" thick, with mounts on each end that are to be clamped onto the
main frame downtube in front of the engine. The inlet/outlet ports are on
the bottom, and the oil line that you tap into is above it. This is where
you get the three 180-degree bends.
I think I read on r.m.d. that someone had spoken to the designer of this kit
at Jagg, and the response was something like "this is not a kit that I'm
terribly proud of..."
What would be ideal is to do as John mentions -- custom pre-formed lines.
With that, I think it would be worthwhile to install the cooler. Even metal
"U-bends" would probably work, since the hoses would then be fairly
straight.
In the meantime, I'm managing the increased engine heat (from the overbore
kit) with proper jetting and a 50/50 mix of race gas (supposedly vaporizes
at a lower temperature or something like that...)
If anyone has figured out the hot tip for installing a Jagg on a DR, please
post!
Thanks,
Bryan
'96 DR441
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:17:46 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Oil cooler, and tire pressure..
>Has anybody heard of an oil cooler for the dr350?
In years past, I've seen them in catalogues. Suzuki used to make one as an
aftermarket accessory, but then quit. Very expensive (about $175), and they
probably didn't sell too many.
I figure the oil gets plenty of surface to cool off as it travels through
the frame.
I learned the tire pressure lesson the hard way. While trail riding in the
rain, I couldn't understand why I was having so much trouble. I couldn't
make it up a hill that everybody else made (wet, grassy, slick with mud). I
crashed 10-20 times, and several people admired my strength at picking that
bike up and kick starting it so many times. Then, someone asked me how
much tire pressure I had (the tires were new MT21's). "24 psi, just like
the manual says." Well, after lowering to about 12, I did wheelies all the
way up that g... damn hill. Never forget that lesson. TW
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 00:19:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) GWNF
Patrick,
What part of Virginia is the GW Nat'l Forest in? Does anyone know of
any riding areas in Tenn or NC? I am going on a roadtrip to Turkey Bay
OHV at Land Between the Lakes & we need other places to hit also. Thanks
for any info. BTW, Sequatchie is out, it would be a trip by itself.
Thanks,
Jim A.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 22:35:39 -0700
From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Rejetting carb; Kenda Tires
Keith the rear DRS is different than the dirt model, it has rubber cushions
built into it
the front should fit, though a comparison should be made before you lay down
your money. Jesse
Keith Browning wrote:
> I just rejetted my carb and adjusted the air screw on my 96 DR350S.
> I opened up the airbox and put in the Thumper needle and spring earlier,
> with no noticeable effect. I got a 135 and a 140 main, my dealer didn't
> stock any pilot jets. Installation was pretty easy, although the screws on
> the bottom of the carb were very tight and almost stripped them getting
> them
> out. I put in the 140 main and turned the airscrew to about 2.5 turns
> out.
> Finally, I can feel a difference! Under full throttle, especially
> above 5500 rpm, the bike pulls much stronger. Before it was pretty weak in
> the higher RPM's. Also, the backfiring has almost completely gone away.
> Before drilling out the air screw the idle was set right at 1500 rpm. Once
> I drilled out the plug, I found that the screw was all the way in. After
> turning it out to 2.5 turns it idled a bit higher, around 2000 rpm I think.
> Is there any way to adjust this without removing the carb or getting the
> Scott's T-handle? Or should I even worry about it?
> So now I have the following mods: Cut out airbox (4X5 inch square),
> White Power filter, Thumper needle (with clip one position down from stock)
> and spring, 140 main jet, and air screw drilled and set to 2.5 turns out.
> A
> definite improvement under full throttle acceleration but nothing I can
> tell
> at lower revs.
> I also got a set of Kenda Trackmasters. I had a rear Trackmaster
> tire before and was happy with it (for off-road performance) so I thought
> I'd get a front and a rear - BIG mistake! I haven't had it off-road since
> putting on the new tires, I've just been using it to commute to work - they
> SUCK on the street. It makes the bike almost an inch taller over stock,
> they slide easily (this morning backing the bike down my driveway the front
> was sliding across rough concrete!) and make the bike very squirrelly.
> Before the bike begged to be leaned hard into turns - now it fights it and
> give very un-reassuring feedback. Quite frankly I am surprised they are
> even DOT legal. If there is a moral to the story I guess it's that a dual
> sport can't do both on and off-road extremely well. Since most of my miles
> are on the street I think I might put the old tires back on and just use
> the
> knobbies for dual sport rides and longer dirt rides.
> What I'd really like to do though is get a complete set of front and
> rear wheels- I'd love to see what this bike could do with a set of pure
> street tires on it. If I could get a complete 90 or 91 DR350 or 350S cheap
> would the wheels, rotors, and sprockets be the same?
> Has anyone had any luck with aftermarket seats or the Suzuki gel
> seat? I think I would need a more comfortable seat for longer street rides
> - any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Keith
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 22:41:21 -0700
From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 385 kit jetting
Tony #42 to be safe do you have a pipe on it? you may have to adjust the air
screw but the pilot is ok. The 435 is better. Jesse
TCrowe1234@aol.com wrote:
> hi guys i own a dr350se 1991 im getting a 385 kit for it what is the best
> jetting to use with the standard carb
>
> tony
------------------------------
End of dr350-digest V1 #66
**************************