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dr350-digest           Monday, May 31 1999           Volume 01 : Number 065




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Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 22:33:58 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Turn Signals

I knocked off the right rear turn signal today during a minor crash
(dammit).  Only my turn signal and my pride were hurt but luckily nobody
was around to see.  I have read over and over on this list about changing
the turn signals or removing them before dirt riding but did I listen?
Of course not.  Kindly tell me where to get the replacement turn signals
that sit up against the frame and can't be knocked off.

Thanks
Chuck Vokac - 92dr350s - Panama City, Florida

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 22:33:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Turnsignals

Chuck,
You can get some shorty turn siignals from WhiteBros or Dennis Kirk,
they are called mini-stalk. WhiteBros also has black rubber flexilbe
stalk holders that flex in case of a crash, I have used this combo and
it works. The mini-stalk signals are cheaper than stock, also thay are
non DOT but nobody will know the difference, they look like they came on
the bike, usually can get them in white ior black.

                                 Jim A



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 07:51:35 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Airbox / Please check http://www.geocities.com /MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html

Claudio,

Go hear and decide what you want to do:
http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/dr350.html.

As a general rule I recommend you spend an equal amount of $ in the suspension
and engine to have balanced results.

John




"ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]> on 05/30/99 04:19:10 PM

Please respond to "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>

To:   "Suzuki DR350S" <[e-mail]>
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) Airbox / Please check
      http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html




Hi guys,

I need your help !

I bought a used 1993 Suzuki DR350 S with 12.500 miles on the clock
from a friend of mine.

I have always been a RR Superbike kind of biker (you can check this at
http://drive.to/thundersub  ) so I don't understand much about dirt
bikes.

I have the DR for a little over 10 months now and use it only in dirt
riding.

My problem is, the bike seems a little under powered (or it's just me
being used to the 150 hp R1 ?) at low revs. I can barely wheelie in
second gear. I have to use the clutch and even with it, most of my
wheelies suck... I have even dropped one tooth in the front sprocket
but that wasn't much improvement.

I have heard and read a lot of different stuff about the airbox and
the air filter.  My bike's engine was recently fully serviced so I
know the engine is ok. I have a Twin Air dual stage air filter.

So, I decided to check the airbox and found out that the first owner
(the one before my friend) has done a little mod to it.

Please check
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html

and look at the pictures and tell me the effects of this huge hole on
top of the airbox to power at lower revs.

I am also planning to add a FMF Megamax slip-on and I was thinking
about a Jet Kit.

Speaking of Jet Kits, which are my options and what do you guys
recommend ?

Thanks !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 08:59:32 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit

Hey John-  A few months ago, I had never been into a carb either...I also
have "average" mechanical skills.  For $200, you can make your bike alot
more powerful & responsive.  I think you must cut open the air box for any
carb mods to be worthwhile, & putting in an aftermarket free-flowing
airfilter.  Stock exhaust will still be OK.

I reckon I've had the carb off 5-6 times in the last couple of months!  The
only hard part about it is actually getting the carb off the bike...and
thats hard only because you have to muscle/finess it out from between the
airbox boot & intake boot.  All you have to do is
- -loosen two clamps
- -remove the carb cable bracket thing & take cable ends out of their holes
- -pull the fuel, vacuum, & vent hoses from the carb (use masking tape to
label them if you think you'll get confused); while you're at it, replace
your stock black fuel line w/ some high quality clear line (clear lets you
know for sure when no gas is flowing, and the black crap deteriorates
quickly w/ age)
- -finally just wrestle the damn thing out from between the rubber boots on
either end
- -re-install in reverse order, except put a thin film of slick stuff
(Armor-all, oil, etc.) on the edge of the rubber boots to make things go it
a bit easier.  getting the carb properly seated back between the two boots
is by far the most irritating task you can do on this bike!  You have a
little more room to maneuver if you remove the gas tank, but not necessary.

While carb is off, here is what you'd want to do:
- -remove 2 screws from top cover of carb & lift top off.
- -spring should be hanging from top cover (this is what you replace w/ the JX
spring)
- -if you simply tip the carb upside down, the needle will fall out into your
hand (put JX needle back in its place, using the stock little washer thing
that was on your needle)
- -put the top cover back on making sure the black rubber diaphram thing is
well seated

I think that you should also install a larger main jet since you've got the
carb off-
- -remove 4 screws from bottom of carb
- -BE CAREFUL NOT TO MESS WITH THE ORANGE PLASTIC FLOAT ASSEMBLY (its easy to
avoid....just dont take it out & play with it out of curiosity like I did)
- -the main jet is the highest point of anything metal that you'll be looking
at....just screw it out, & install larger one in its place
- -put the carb bottom back on, making sure the thin black gasket is in place

Installing the Scott T-handle:
**good instructions come with it, but here is a re-cap so you'll know what
to expect:
- -first, cover ALL OPENINGS ON CARB W/ ALLUMINUM FOIL TO KEEP METAL PARTICLE
FROM GETTING IN....THIS MEANS THE VENT TUBE, VACUUM TUBE, FUEL LINE TUBE,
AND BOTH LARGE OPEN ENDS
- -while carb is off, turn it upside down so looking at bottom
- -while looking at the edge of the carb that would be facing the engine  when
installed, the highest point in the middle of that edge is where the pilot
valve is....you have to carefully, slowly drill through about 3/8" of
magnesium to get to the valve THIS IS THE RISKIEST THING YOU WILL BE DOING!
GO TOO DEEP TOO QUICK, & YOU RISK DRILLING OFF THE SCREWDRIVER SLOT ON THE
VALVE, THEREBY HAVING NO WAY TO REMOVE IT!
- -when you get the hole the right size, you then have to cut/grind/file
(Dremel tool w/ cut off wheel is the easiest way to go) the very stuff
you've been drilling through down about 3/8" or so to give the T-handle room
to clear the starter when you reinstall carb
- -before you remove the stock pilot valve, invert carb & blow all metal
shavings out of hole & off carb surface!  Buy a poor-man's air compressor
(can of compressed air for cleaning computer keyboards from any office
supply store) to do this right.
- -then instead of removing the valve by simply unscrewing it, screw it IN
first, counting the number of turns you need to make it seat....this will
tell you how many turns out you should start your T-handle at
- -take pilot valve all the way out & replace w/ the T-handle, screwed out the
same number of turns your stock valve was.
- -all of the above (w/ exception of a few of my own thoughts) is in the
instructions that come with the T-handle, along w/ proper drill bit (I
think...cant remember; if not, it tells you the size to use) & exact amount
to cut off of the valve housing

The size of the main jet you install is up to you: if you dont mind taking
the carb off several times to get the right jetting, just go up in size one
size at a time (skip the first size up from your stock size: 93-98 DR350SE's
stock settings are 127.5 main, 37.5 pilot).  If you dont want to ever take
the damn carb off again, install a main that is 2 sizes up from you stock,
and you will get some improvement, and there is almost no way you'd be
running too rich.  I'm 3 sizes over stock (135 from 127.5) w/ pilot 3.25
turns out, JX needle raised one notch from the middle, and am still a little
lean, but I put on a MegaMax exhaust as well.

Hope this has helped.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: [e-mail] (john miller)
>Reply-To: [e-mail] (john miller)
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) jx needle kit
>Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 00:23:27 -0400 (EDT)
>
>I have average mechanical skills and know nothing about carburaters.How
>hard is it to  install the scott t-handle and the jx needle kit?Does the
>carb have to come out?I have about 200 bucks to burn on my bike it is
>completely stock any suggestions?
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 08:33:42 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Hot Tip: Push-Pull Throttle Cable Elimination

I have been on a quest to eliminate the carpal-tunnel-syndrome-nightmare of a
setup with the stock push-pull DR cable. I tried removing the push cable over
the last year, but the remaining play in the housing created some binding to
remain on the pull side due to slop.

On a hunch I stopped at Larry Roesler's shop (Stroker) the other day and ended
up buying a new cable & housing. Have your dealer order these parts (Motion Pro
is the maker): the CR-like complete throttle #01053 ($17), and the special cable
#01648 ($20). It works better than tossing the stock push cable. And I do not
get vacuum binding of the carb slide like some say.

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 15:18:40 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: DR350 S or dirt model?

OK claudio here we go,
no 1. air box is a must I have taken the bull by thee horns and have
developed an aluminum air box similar to the magic air box that is no
longer being manufactured and have made some major improvements. This
would be your first step. This will add between 4 to 7 hp with no other
mods.
2. Install the larger after market  larger headpipe and a megamax
exhaust with the large and matching reciever end so the headpipe will
slip in. . I have had to cut off the reciever bore it out and weld it
back on .
. White bros. makes the least expensive head pipe, thumper makes a
ceramic coated one that is of a higher quality but also cost more.
3.The nex t step is the thumper 435 big bore kit I have had excellent
performance and reliability results with this system they use the nascar
wrist pin that seems to hold up better the others. Still in sevice after
four + years of operation.
4. Megacycle Cam mild grind with R&D springs and rocker arm hard reface.
This gives the top end power, but without it great low end but falls off
sooner on the top.
5. Carb rebore {dirt model only} 2 mm larger lets every thing breath
better.
I run a 13-52 sprocket for dirt only operation which I like in the
technical areas and I have 6 speeds to open things up.The top end power
is awsome and the low end is good for pulling stumps. I have offered an
initial price of $210.00 for the air box to the guys on the list but not
sure how long I can do this. Will have units to ship in about two weeks.

1. Vortex airbox $ 210.00
2.Head pipe White Bros.$69.00
3.Megamax exhaust $ 219.00
4  Thumper Big bore parts kit. $240.
5.Install sleeve and fit pistion.$125.
6.Teardown and reassemble top end.$110.
7. Reseat valves if needed. $ 40.
8.Bore out carb 2mm $85.{ dirt model only}
9. Cam, springs,and rocker arm hard surfacing $324.
These are the existing catalog prices and are subject to change but
gives you an idea as to the costs involved, these mods can be done in
stages also.  Jesse

ThunderSUB wrote:

> Hi Jesse,
>
> Sure I want to make my DR more powerful !
>
> Looking forward for your advice and expertise !
>
> Thanks in advance !
>
> It's a DR350 S model.
>
> > Claudio, would you like to make your  dr go? I can help you if you
> do
> > Dr's are my specialty I have done four of them and they all rip.If
> you
> > are interested get back to me.  Jesse
>
> ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
> Lisbon, Portugal
> http://drive.to/thundersub
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html
>
> [e-mail]
> ICQ# [3072424]
>
> * 1982 Honda Dax 70
> * 1993 Suzuki DR350S
> * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:08:02 -0400
From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Street Legal Dirt Bike

Hello Listers!

Please Check Out The WDSRC Website for information on how to make your
off-road motorcycle street legal. Two of our members will walk you through
the entire procedure.! They did it for their XR400s!

This page IS NOT TO BE PLACED ON ANY OTHER WEBSITE, but you can direct
people to our home page.

While you're there, check out the rest of the site, we're sure you'll like
what you see. Thanks for riding with us!

Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders:
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Dual Sporting Florida And The South Eastern U.S.!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:13:41 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Trailers

I spent the weekend with a 4'x8' trailer I borrowed from a friend.  It
has 12" tires and rolls pretty smoothly but what a pain in the butt it is
loading and unloading the bike.  It makes me want one of those lift
carriers that fits on a class 3 hitch and makes me sorry I put a class 2
hitch on my car.  I think the ideal setup for hauling your bike on the
back of a pickup.   One thing I learned is to use a 6" or wider board -
nothing narrower -  to unload the bike from the trailer otherwise the
bike falls off the board too easily when unloading..   Thanks to the
person who suggested the trailer from Harbor Freight but I am afraid the
rather small 8" wheels may be a problem on the highway.  I hear that
wheels smaller than 11 or 12 inches spin so fast at highway speeds they
go flat easily.  I am trying to find a used trailer but nobody here in
Panama City seems to be selling them this time of year.
p.s. Thanks to the person who suggested the mini stalk rear turn signals
from Dennis Kirk.

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End of dr350-digest V1 #65
**************************