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dr350-digest            Monday, May 3 1999            Volume 01 : Number 038




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:37:36 -0700
From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Suspension question

Hi,


First i like to say, that this DR list is one of the best thing , that a DR
owner can get.
Lots of great questions and answers.
Thanks for starting this whole thing , i believe it was you Kurt, right?

As far as i know they went to cartridge fork on 97 on the front.( Showa- brand ?
)Honda has the same one is in it ?
The question : I did read about suspension weakness on DRs , i have a 99 model ,

did Suzuki fixed the suspension problem , is it any better than the previous
year model?
Or does my 99 susp. have the same sickness as the others ( too soft)
I could not tell if it is soft or not, because i always had " Rice-rockets" ,
Zx-6 , Zx-11,  in the past, and could not compare to Mx or other DP bikes.
Also if some one could tell me the best setting for compression and rebound
adjustment on front and rear. I tried to adjust but could not tell much
different, ( inexperience???).
What is the most dangerous setting that one possibly can have , Low compression
and high rebound? or the other way around?

Thanks for any advice.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 00:34:32 -0400
From: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

OK,  maybe I already missed the discussion about this.  I am considering
upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se,  I have several options before me
and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck;
1.  send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$
2.  install the cartritdge fork emulators$$
3.  buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$
4.  Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$
I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the
cartridge emulators,  he advised the conversion kit or new shocks.
However the emulators are in my price range.  I could save for a while
and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it
all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money
on beer.
What I would really like to know is how the emulators work?  Do they
really do a good job,  or are they hype?  Mr Kouba kept referring to
them as a "band aid."
Obviously I dont motocross or anything.  I like to ride mildly
aggressively,  and plan on riding more in the dirt.  But I also like to
commute to work.  I just want something more safe and friendly than what
is on the bike.
Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers?  I know the
Scott is the trickest,  but how is the WER or the other one?
Thanks for tips
PJ

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:02:38 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

> OK,  maybe I already missed the discussion about this.  I am considering
> upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se,  I have several options before me
> and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck;
> 1.  send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$
> 2.  install the cartritdge fork emulators$$
> 3.  buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$
> 4.  Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$

I think this looks correct.  There's no question that option 4 is the
ultimate fix to the DR's suspension.  It's just a matter of how much you
want to spend, and what you want to do with your bike.


I installed CFEs in my '97 DRSE, and if I had another DRS with damping rod
forks (I think they went the cartridge on the street models in '99 for the
first time) that wasn't for motocross, I'd do the same thing again.  The
performance benefits are substantial, and definitely worth it.

Pluses:
+ Allows the compression of the fork to be "linear" versus the hydraulic
"lock" that happens on the damping rod forks under high-speed compressions.
+ Allows tuning of the compression and rebound

Minuses:
- - Tuning of the compression and rebound aren't doable "on the fly"
(compression adjustments can be done with the forks still on the bike, but
require removal of the springs and CFEs; rebound adjustment is done with oil
viscosity changes.)

To do the work of installing the CFEs is not a big deal, though I really
would recommend having access to an impact wrench (the rods will easily spin
inside the fork as you're trying to remove or install the damping rod bolt.)

Race Tech includes excellent instructions with the CFEs.  You'll also need
to replace the springs, as the stock ones are then too long (and if you
weigh more than 170 pounds, generally too weak anyway) once the CFEs are
installed.

To determine your spring rate, see http://www.race-tech.com.  Click on
<Product Catalog> <Dirt Springs> <Spring Chart - Dirt>.

**** Shameless personal ad to follow
BTW, the new springs run $89.99 from Race-Tech.  I have a set, part number
FRSP 3750K, in the original box, that I'll sell for $55, including shipping
in the US.  (Hopefully a quick personal ad on this list is okay...)
****

I hope this helps.  If you have any questions (which I doubt you will after
viewing the instructions), I'd be happy to help if I can.

Bryan
'96 DR441
Sacramento

(BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time.
It was:
- - PLUSH on everything
- - Softer on the little stuff
- - Stiffer on the jumps
In other words, it is definitely worth it!)

(I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple
times...)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 01:11:11 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Start switch on DR-se models

My start switch on my '97 se model died......I had asked for assistance with
relocating the start switch. I traced wire and found that if you have to, the
bundle coming from the right side switch assembly......splice into the orange
wire and the yellow with a green stripe wire with a non-holding pushbutton
switch (kill switch) mounted conveniently is good. Right now, I have a hold
and release switch that holds the starter "in" so you can clear a flooded
engine providing you have stouter wiring than stock!! Have fun, dudes.....my
brother and I made about 30 laps each around my H/S trail today, alternating
between my DR and my '96 RM250.....DR was a blast, despite having a slick
rear tire (435cc bigbore kits eat em up)...actually looked forward to riding
the DR!!! See ya, nutties!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:49:39 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

PJ,

You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350 except my wallet
was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic damper rod
fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not bitter @ them for
that).

Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where you want to go
with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I vote for #2 (RT
Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the Kouba link and
get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the stuff if your
situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills exceed what
these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts because you can
recover some of your $.

Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B.

4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges (compression adjustment
only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98  up (comp. & reb. adjmt's). If you go
the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too; it has more
shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have Scott's (see: I'm
not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former
trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter.

4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable seller in Cycle
News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If you go this route
then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock out back.

Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than any of the other
option you listed (as they are  stocked parts/services that take only $ to
acquire.)

Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where it mounts the
real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the prospect of having
something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having headshake
problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the *only* concern,
and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east (woods) they prefer
the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff. The Scott's is
made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called GP used to make
one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if they are still in
business.

John




PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]> on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM

Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>

To:   List <[e-mail]>
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) Even more suspension questions.




OK,  maybe I already missed the discussion about this.  I am considering
upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se,  I have several options before me
and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck;
1.  send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$
2.  install the cartritdge fork emulators$$
3.  buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$
4.  Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$
I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the
cartridge emulators,  he advised the conversion kit or new shocks.
However the emulators are in my price range.  I could save for a while
and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it
all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money
on beer.
What I would really like to know is how the emulators work?  Do they
really do a good job,  or are they hype?  Mr Kouba kept referring to
them as a "band aid."
Obviously I dont motocross or anything.  I like to ride mildly
aggressively,  and plan on riding more in the dirt.  But I also like to
commute to work.  I just want something more safe and friendly than what
is on the bike.
Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers?  I know the
Scott is the trickest,  but how is the WER or the other one?
Thanks for tips
PJ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:52:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) DR 350 kick start

Did you get an answer about this ?
I asked arounf when I was going to buy a 99 and no one really knew.

I was going to try and figure it out myself, but I never bought the bike.
I know the hole is stil in the cover and it looks like the electric start
works off of the other side of the bike. I was going to go into my shop and
they were going to let me look at the microfiche. I figured if the clutch
basket was the same on the non electric models. Then all that should have to
be done was to add the kickstarter mechanism.

Good luck and let everyone know what you find out.
 ----------
From: [e-mail]
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR 350 kick start
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:17PM

I have a 96 electric start DR 350.
Has anyone tried to add or remove the electric start to add a Kick start
instead?
I was wondering incase the battery dies while out on a trail. you could
always kick start it back up.
or would the kick start free up some the DR's weight problem?

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:02:34 -0500
From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

What is involved with installing RM/RMX forks and shocks?  Do these items
"bolt-on" or are some modifications required?

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of
> [e-mail]
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:50 AM
> To: PATRICK ANDERSON
> Cc: List
> Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.
>
>
> PJ,
>
> You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350
> except my wallet
> was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic
> damper rod
> fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not
> bitter @ them for
> that).
>
> Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where
> you want to go
> with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I
> vote for #2 (RT
> Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the
> Kouba link and
> get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the
> stuff if your
> situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills
> exceed what
> these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts
> because you can
> recover some of your $.
>
> Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B.
>
> 4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges
> (compression adjustment
> only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98  up (comp. & reb.
> adjmt's). If you go
> the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too;
> it has more
> shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have
> Scott's (see: I'm
> not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former
> trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter.
>
> 4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable
> seller in Cycle
> News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If
> you go this route
> then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock
> out back.
>
> Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than
> any of the other
> option you listed (as they are  stocked parts/services that take only $ to
> acquire.)
>
> Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where
> it mounts the
> real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the
> prospect of having
> something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having
> headshake
> problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the
> *only* concern,
> and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east
> (woods) they prefer
> the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff.
> The Scott's is
> made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called
> GP used to make
> one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if
> they are still in
> business.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]> on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM
>
> Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
>
> To:   List <[e-mail]>
> cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
> Subject:  (dr350) Even more suspension questions.
>
>
>
>
> OK,  maybe I already missed the discussion about this.  I am considering
> upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se,  I have several options before me
> and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck;
> 1.  send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$
> 2.  install the cartritdge fork emulators$$
> 3.  buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$
> 4.  Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$
> I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the
> cartridge emulators,  he advised the conversion kit or new shocks.
> However the emulators are in my price range.  I could save for a while
> and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it
> all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money
> on beer.
> What I would really like to know is how the emulators work?  Do they
> really do a good job,  or are they hype?  Mr Kouba kept referring to
> them as a "band aid."
> Obviously I dont motocross or anything.  I like to ride mildly
> aggressively,  and plan on riding more in the dirt.  But I also like to
> commute to work.  I just want something more safe and friendly than what
> is on the bike.
> Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers?  I know the
> Scott is the trickest,  but how is the WER or the other one?
> Thanks for tips
> PJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #38
**************************