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dr350-digest            Sunday, May 2 1999            Volume 01 : Number 037




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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:31:13 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: [none]

I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel.  What a
difference a new tire makes!  I don't know why I didn't get one sooner.

My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well.

I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and
chain cleaning  I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess
I wasn't.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:43:46 +0100
From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Wires / Clutch switch

Hi guys,

I need your help !

First, my DR is a '93 DR350S model.

I read on someone's message about engines dying suddenly due to the
clutch switch being malfunctioning or something like that...

The same thing happened to me when I was riding pretty hard on the
beach (dunes).

I crashed violently over the bars when that happened... and damaged
the clocks !

First, what's the clutch switch ? Is that the "Engine Stop Switch" ?
Because my bike doesn't have any wires coming from the clutch...

I want to disable the "clutch switch" and also the side stand switch.
I also want to remove the clocks.

My problem is, the ignition key is attached to the clocks so I will
have to "highwire" the bike (never mind my English)...

I removed the clocks (and also the ignition switch), the front panel &
the front light.

There are a lot of wires behind the the front light. There are a group
of wires from the clocks (disconnected the plug), another group of
wires from the ignition switch (disconnected the plug), a group of
wires from the left handlebar switches and another one from the right
handlebar switch.

I realised that all the wires that came from the handlebar switches
are all together in a plug except 2 wires (one black & one yellow).
The black wire from the the left handlebar switch (clutch side) was
connected to the black wire from the right handlebar switch (front
brake), the same with the yellow wire.

I managed to "highwire" by connecting the yellow wire to the black
wire (one was male & the other female) of the right handlebar switch.

Did nothing to the yellow and black wire of the left handlebar switch.

The engine starts, no problem at all and the "Engine Stop Switch" was
disabled.

My question is ? Has anyone remove the clocks from your bike and how
did you manage to start the bike without the ignition switch ?

Is this the right way to highwire the bike ?

How do I disable the side stand switch ?

What should I do to the yellow and black wires that come from the left
handlebar switch ?

My intention is to remove the clocks, the ignition switch and the side
stand switch.

Please help me and never mind my English.

Thanks in advance !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:05:29 -0700
From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE:

A note on the rear hub...

On SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion drive" pieces
that fit between the wheel hub and sprocket hub, they wear out over time.
 I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I ride about 2500
miles per year.)  Bearings are available from a bearing supply house, and
are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts.

Doug
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html


- -----Original Message-----
From:    charles w vokac [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent:    Saturday, May 01, 1999 6:31 PM
To:    [e-mail]
Subject:

I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel.  What a
difference a new tire makes!  I don't know why I didn't get one sooner.

My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well.

I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and
chain cleaning  I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess
I wasn't.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 10:40:11 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico

Hey guys, I just posted this to the DUST list...thought I'd share it here
to:
====================================================================

Hi Marcus-

I work for US Customs & have been to many interior cities in Mexico doing
NAFTA audits; I keep up on travel conditions as a matter of course.  Bandits
have always existed in Mexico, but they are a much more common danger these
days (ever since the peso devaluation in 1995).  I would suggest that when
you travel the smaller, less frequently-traveled paved hiways, you are at
greatest risk.  Geographically, there is more hiway robbery in the west than
in the east.  Within 60 miles or so of Mexico City is also risky.  On the 4
lane tollways and on the most remote, least traveled dirt roads, you are
safest from the threat of bandits.  Their most common MO is to drag a
log/tree across a road, hiding to wait for the car travelers to bail out &
move the obstacle.  They dont usually have guns, and USUALLY dont physically
harm their vicitms, but I do know that some American tourists have been
beaten/abused, and a few have been killed. My brother was robbed a few years
ago as he drove up the coast from Acapulco (tree in the road trick).  They
took his wallet, & went through the car & his wife's purse.

Statistically, you're still probably safer traveling in Mexico than walking
a big US city at night.... just wanted to post a little reminder about the
risk.  If they take your bike & your cash....you are going to have a long,
uncomfortable detour.

And even though I usually pack a gun on my longer road trips, DONT EVER
think about taking one south of the border....instant jail for a long time.
Every year there are dozens of Americans that drive across to the border
towns that forget about that rusty old pistol in the glove box, .22 rifle in
the tool box in the bed of the truck, whatever.  If they get the "red light"
(the red light comes on 10% of the time) for an intensive inspection by the
Aduana (Mexican Customs), the firearm is found, the car siezed, & the driver
arrested.  And no, you cant bribe your way out of it.....the "feds" at the
border crossings cannot be bribed (at least not by some gun-toting gringo).
I think they are usually in a lousy jail for a minumum of 6 months or so
before the US embassy people finally get them out.

If anyone ever needs any US or Mexican Customs info, I can probably answer
your questions.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>Subject: Guaymas to Santa Rosalia Ferry Service

>Hi Everyone,
>
>I'm planning on ridding my KLR into Mexico in June. I see on my map that
>there is a ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalia, and was curious if anyone
>can confirm this for me. Also, if folks know of the prices, hours, or any
>other details, please pass them along to me. Furthermore, I'm open to any
>suggestions of places to eat and places to stay (camping or hotel).
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>    ~marcus young~
>Denver, CO


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:45:25 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico

Re:  Guns in Mexico - that is absolutely true about going to jail if caught
with one.  TW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:46:27 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE:

>A note on the rear hub...
>
>On -S and -SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion
drive" . . .   I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I
ride about 2500 miles per year.)  Bearings are available from a bearing
supply house, and are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts.  >Doug


I agree with Doug - keep an eye on those rear axel bearings.  I have had
them wear out, as have others I know.  They are good for about 10k dirt
miles, at best - check them with each tire change.

As noted, bearings from the supply house are cheaper and more readily
available.  Also, replace with ones that are sealed on both sides (rather
than just one side), so they will stay cleaner.  TW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:50:48 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box

I have a Magic Air Box I.  It has such wonderful air flow, it makes "opening
the stock air box" seem trivial by comparison.  Just make sure you keep the
filter clean, and watch out for water getting it.  You let in lots of stuff
besides air into that huge opening.

After washing my bike yesterday, it wouldn't run because of water in the
float bowl.  Ran like it was running out of gas, and turning on reserve made
it worse (water, heavier than gas, was at the bottom of my tank).  Draining
the float bowl, then a can of Heat fixed it.  Not the first time that has
happened to me.

Glad to see continued interest in DR's aftermarket performance upgrades.
Went riding again today, and, again was every bit as fast as my friend n his
XR650L.


TW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 18:35:53 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE

In a message dated 4/30/99 7:14:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Mike,

 How does the Dunlop K139 do off road in all of the following categories: mud,
 sand, rocks & hardpack? Is it for hard surface, intermediate, soft
conditions? I
 know that's asking too much of one tire, being DOT apprv'd, but please let us
 know if you have pers. experience.

 John
  >>


John,

I have been using the Dunlop K139 for about 2-3 years now. It has worked very
well for me on a variety of terrain. From Kentucky mud to Utah sandstone,
from Michigan's U.P. sand(fine) to So Cal/Arizona/Nevada sand(fine all the
way to kitty litter), Washington loam to West Virginia River rock.  It also
performs amazingly well on pavement (dry).

It has been pushed to 100 mph, then leaned on hard in corner after corner!  I
have ripped my share of side knobs off but this is to be expected after the
abuse I subject it to.

BTW..........D.O.T. approval has very little to do with how serious or good
the tire is.

Hope that helps a little,

Mike

P.S.  I have to give my friend Mark Hyde (American Suzuki) credit for getting
me to try
the tire in the first place.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:53:45 -0500
From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Sand riding

My friend showed me how to ride in deep sand and mud.  I know it's
nothing new for the experienced group here but I will repeat it anyway.
Get your weight off the front tire by sliding your ass way back.  You can
either stand while doing this or if you're lazy like me, sit way back on
the rear fender.  At the same time, pull back on the handle bars
repeatedly to pull the front tire up out of the muck or sand.  I was
hauling through some deep puddles and doing this through them kept the
front tire from getting bogged down.  The front tire seemed to hydroplane
over the surface of the puddle.  When I tried it the normal way I almost
went forward over the handlebars.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City FL
'92 DR350S


___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
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------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #37
**************************