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dr350-digest            Monday, May 3 1999            Volume 01 : Number 039




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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:31:28 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

Bryan according  to my shop manual " factory" in the 94 supplement section you
already have cartrige forks, I highly recommend getting a shop manual if you are
intending to do any upgrading at all  hope this helps  Jesse

Bryan Cowger wrote:

> > OK,  maybe I already missed the discussion about this.  I am considering
> > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se,  I have several options before me
> > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck;
> > 1.  send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$
> > 2.  install the cartritdge fork emulators$$
> > 3.  buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$
> > 4.  Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$
>
> I think this looks correct.  There's no question that option 4 is the
> ultimate fix to the DR's suspension.  It's just a matter of how much you
> want to spend, and what you want to do with your bike.
>
> I installed CFEs in my '97 DRSE, and if I had another DRS with damping rod
> forks (I think they went the cartridge on the street models in '99 for the
> first time) that wasn't for motocross, I'd do the same thing again.  The
> performance benefits are substantial, and definitely worth it.
>
> Pluses:
> + Allows the compression of the fork to be "linear" versus the hydraulic
> "lock" that happens on the damping rod forks under high-speed compressions.
> + Allows tuning of the compression and rebound
>
> Minuses:
> - Tuning of the compression and rebound aren't doable "on the fly"
> (compression adjustments can be done with the forks still on the bike, but
> require removal of the springs and CFEs; rebound adjustment is done with oil
> viscosity changes.)
>
> To do the work of installing the CFEs is not a big deal, though I really
> would recommend having access to an impact wrench (the rods will easily spin
> inside the fork as you're trying to remove or install the damping rod bolt.)
>
> Race Tech includes excellent instructions with the CFEs.  You'll also need
> to replace the springs, as the stock ones are then too long (and if you
> weigh more than 170 pounds, generally too weak anyway) once the CFEs are
> installed.
>
> To determine your spring rate, see http://www.race-tech.com.  Click on
> <Product Catalog> <Dirt Springs> <Spring Chart - Dirt>.
>
> **** Shameless personal ad to follow
> BTW, the new springs run $89.99 from Race-Tech.  I have a set, part number
> FRSP 3750K, in the original box, that I'll sell for $55, including shipping
> in the US.  (Hopefully a quick personal ad on this list is okay...)
> ****
>
> I hope this helps.  If you have any questions (which I doubt you will after
> viewing the instructions), I'd be happy to help if I can.
>
> Bryan
> '96 DR441
> Sacramento
>
> (BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time.
> It was:
> - PLUSH on everything
> - Softer on the little stuff
> - Stiffer on the jumps
> In other words, it is definitely worth it!)
>
> (I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple
> times...)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:37:12 -0700
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box

Hi Tom Where in Montana ? Thanks for the response on the air box issue. I used
to run a Suzuki Dealership in Hamilton beautiful place to live.  Jesse

Tom Warr wrote:

> I have a Magic Air Box I.  It has such wonderful air flow, it makes "opening
> the stock air box" seem trivial by comparison.  Just make sure you keep the
> filter clean, and watch out for water getting it.  You let in lots of stuff
> besides air into that huge opening.
>
> After washing my bike yesterday, it wouldn't run because of water in the
> float bowl.  Ran like it was running out of gas, and turning on reserve made
> it worse (water, heavier than gas, was at the bottom of my tank).  Draining
> the float bowl, then a can of Heat fixed it.  Not the first time that has
> happened to me.
>
> Glad to see continued interest in DR's aftermarket performance upgrades.
> Went riding again today, and, again was every bit as fast as my friend n his
> XR650L.
>
> TW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 09:44:42 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.

Brian,

The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to
accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and
the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that,
it's a simple bolt-up affair.

I know of and have talked to two others who have done it besides myself: Dick
Burleson and Rob Barnum. I can give you their #s if interested; Rob still has
his DR, but Dick has moved on to other mounts and his memory of the DR was
difficult to recall for him. In addition, I have copies of the two rag articles
which show the work they did.

John


What is involved with installing RM/RMX forks and shocks?  Do these items
"bolt-on" or are some modifications required?

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:29:31 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.

>The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to
>accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and
>the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that,
>it's a simple bolt-up affair.


John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than others?  I saw an RM 250 for
sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap.  What about the shock? Any mods
necessary for that?

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:30:23 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.

- -----Original Message-----
From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
To: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Cc: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>; List <[e-mail]>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions.


>Bryan according  to my shop manual " factory" in the 94 supplement section you
>already have cartrige forks, I highly recommend getting a shop manual if you are
>intending to do any upgrading at all  hope this helps  Jesse


the SE model didn't get cartridge forks until '98...

Kurt '97 SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:44:58 -0500
From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.

Here's an off the wall question.  Anybody ever taken an RMX and replaced
engine with DR350?  Now that would be cool.  RMX suspension and weight with
DR350 user friendly power.  :-)

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:30 PM
> To: [e-mail]; Brian Luttman
> Cc: DR350 List
> Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.
>
>
> >The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down
> 0.010" to
> >accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the
> two models), and
> >the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler.
> Other than that,
> >it's a simple bolt-up affair.
>
>
> John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than
> others?  I saw an RM 250 for
> sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap.  What
> about the shock? Any mods
> necessary for that?
>
> Kurt
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:36:40 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.

Kurt,

I have '91s; they have 45mm sliders and are Showas. '89 & '90 came with 43mm
KYBs; '91 & up are Showas. I was told the '91 Showas were the best of the
earlier years; can't say anything for those after '95 as they went to
conventials, but I read they are good, but not as rigid as the USD type.

We can assume the RMs came with different settings, but they may work fine with
the DRs added weight.

I haven't done a thing to mine other than new seals and fresh oil, and the stock
settings on all of the clickers, front & back, provide excellent results. As a
bonus, the USD structure adds a tremendous amount of rigidity. A 4.9 or 4.8 kg
spring is on the back, and I will need to go one step lower, being a 150 lb.
pilot.

The exhaust header will need to be rerouted under the *new * RM/RMX shock
reservoir. A muffler shop welder did mine for ~$75.

John


>The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to
>accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and
>the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that,
>it's a simple bolt-up affair.


John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than others?  I saw
an RM 250 for
sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap.  What about the shock?
Any mods
necessary for that?

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:40:09 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion.

Won't work; the RMX tank hangs too low/DR engine too tall & wide. You wouldn't
save that much in weight, but it would be nice to have a slimmer setup.

John


Here's an off the wall question.  Anybody ever taken an RMX and replaced
engine with DR350?  Now that would be cool.  RMX suspension and weight with
DR350 user friendly power.  :-)

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 13:52:06 -0700
From: loren bohl <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) wis&min

Are there any people in the dr list that is in AMA districts 16 or 23,
that is Wisconsin and Minnesota.
L Bohl

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:08:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) gas

how far can i expect to go on a full tank of gas averaging 65mph.I have
about a 100 mile trip I know I will need to kick in the reserve but will
i make it?Also this magic air box will this help or hinder a totally
stock bike?Should I go for carb jetting and exhuast first?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:48:19 -0500
From: Dan Wolfrom <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (ndr350) Moab Accommodations

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I'm planning to spend the week in the Moab area with a group of friends the
3rd week in May. We want to do a group camp, and am wondering if the
Canyonland campark is the best place to stay, and if reservations are
recommended. We hope to mountain bike and hike near Moab, Slickrock,etc.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,

Dan Wolfrom
'98 DR350SE
'96 KLX650
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:44:14 -0700
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Getting Your Bearings

OK, all this talk about bearings wearing out and the mythical 'bearing
supply house' has got me curious and worried.

My 92 DR350S has about 11,000 miles on it, and had about 8,600 when I
got it.  I'm willing to bet none of the previous owners changed or
otherwise maintained the bearings.  I haven't ever had the wheels off
yet, so now I expect the worst... [Gloom gathers on the horizon.  I'm
sure the next time I ride the bike I'll notice a strange sound that I
haven't heard before.  Augh!]

I've got some new tires on the way, so I'll have the wheels off next
week -- what better time to replace the bearings?

So, does anyone know the specifications of the front & rear bearings?=20
I'm sure that just walking into one of the "Bearings" places in the
local phone book, they're not going to know what size or
hardness/service level of bearing I'm going to need.

Can anyone who has done this before share some specific details?=20
Would they be in the Clymer manual (I'm at work, so can't check now)?

Thanks,
Brian
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -=20
Brian Bucknam=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 [e-mail]=20
TDM 850=A0 DR350S

___________________________________________________
Get Your Free Email at http://www.friendlyemail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:57:36 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (ndr350) Moab Accommodations

>I'm planning to spend the week in the Moab area with a group of friends the
>3rd week in May. We want to do a group camp, and am wondering if the
>Canyonland campark is the best place to stay, and if reservations are
>recommended. We hope to mountain bike and hike near Moab, Slickrock,etc.
>
>Any recommendations?


Canyonlands is the closest to "downtown" which means walking distance to two microbreweries and
some of the nicer eateries. It is well maintained and has a pool and complete laundry and
shower/toilets. I do recommend it. Slickrock is just down the road....

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:56:05 -0400
From: "J. Carton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Rear Under fender

I am getting ready to remove the rear under fender on my 94 DR 350SE and am
wondering if there is any wiring problems I should look our for. Also,
should I order the Acerbis DOT tailight/plate holder or just bolt the plate
to the fender? Thanks in advance.
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:01:44 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Rear Under fender

>I am getting ready to remove the rear under fender on my 94 DR 350SE and am
>wondering if there is any wiring problems I should look our for. Also,
>should I order the Acerbis DOT tailight/plate holder or just bolt the plate
>to the fender? Thanks in advance.
>Joe


I chickened out on mine and just cut the three inches hanging below the plate...

Kurt

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End of dr350-digest V1 #39
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