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dr350-digest         Thursday, April 29 1999         Volume 01 : Number 034




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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:33:26 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Wider pegs.

Gino,

I have the Thumper Burly pegs; deadly sharp, wider/taller than stock, &
unbendable - the mount will give way first. One guy @ work called them a bear
trap. And from experience I can say they dig very well into any type of dirt; a
very effective anchor when you go down. Only thing I do not like is once or
twice they cut into my jeans when loading up. Try IMS or Works as alternatives.

John




"Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]> on 04/28/99 08:18:49 AM

Please respond to "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>

To:   "'[e-mail]'" <[e-mail]>
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) Wider pegs.




Anyone put wider pegs on their DR350?  What kind? I'm beginning to think I'd
like a little wider peg under my foot.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:38:41 -0600
From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Wider pegs.

>>I have the Thumper Burly pegs; deadly sharp, wider/taller than stock, &<<

I have the permanent imprint of a Burly peg in my right shin from my KLR
accident last year.  I know what you mean.

Gino

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:00:26 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Is header pipe Stainless Steel?

>
> I've heard rumors that the stock header pipe is stainless steel, painted
> black. I checked with a magnet and mine is not  magnetic. Anyone know if
> this is true? If it is stainless, I'm going to strip and polish it.

Hmm.  I don't _think_ this is the case, but I guess it's possible.

I just had mine off, and was amazed by the size of the weld bead joining the
flange to the pipe (on the engine end).  The inside diameter of the pipe was
probably reduced by close to 1/4", especially where the bead overlapped
itself.

I spent a few minutes with a Dremel cutting down the bead and smoothing the
inner walls of the pipe.  It was a bear to cut, so perhaps it _is_
stainless.  I ended up using a dozen or so of the cutoff disks to "notch"
around the weld, and then cleaned it up with the little sanding drums.

Does it make a difference?  I don't know for sure, but I thought I'd pass
this observation on to the list.

FWIW,
Bryan
'96 DR441
Sacramento

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:35:30 -0400
From: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0

I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag, saddlebags,
tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and some
stuff.

Thanks,
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:47:54 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0

>I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
>and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag, saddlebags,
>tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and some
>stuff.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith


Gino Pokluda and I use Tim Bernard's sideracks that give protection to both sidecovers and
mufflers. With the sideracks installed you can use any kind of soft luggage on the rear. We
both use Ortlieb Dry Bags from Aerostich. For rear racks, Suzuki makes and economy model or a
deluxe model. Tim makes one even bigger than the deluxe and DualStar makes a stainless rack.
For the tank, look at the competition size panniers from Aerostich.

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:21:56 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Is header pipe Stainless Steel?

In a message dated 4/27/99 9:21:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I've heard rumors that the stock header pipe is stainless steel, painted
 black. I checked with a magnet and mine is not  magnetic. Anyone know if
 this is true? If it is stainless, I'm going to strip and polish it.


 Scott Stephens
  >>
  I dont know if it's true or not but if it is I am gonna strip the paint
right off! However I have my doubts.

Mike A
Nashville

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:32:41 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) rack question from KEITH

I had same question recently, & searched the archives of this list.
Suzuki makes two racks for this bike, one "Economy" and one other
model (dont remember name).  The economy model is the larger of the
two (11"X11"), and I just ordered one from Competion Accessories for
$55 incl shipping.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
>To:
>Subject: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:35:30 -0400
>
>I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
>and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag,
saddlebags,
>tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and
some
>stuff.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith
>
>


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Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:37:47 +0000
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Chain guard for 97 DR350 SE

Even though my DR350SE (97) is lovely, the lower chain guide has
snapped. The local Suzi shop says they only can get the plastic one -
aluminum only for models up to '94. Anyone know of aftermarket product
that might work here - I just want one that can take a bit of abuse.

Thanks,

Chris.

ps I'm going down to Trials Training Center in Tennessee the week after
next - anyone been?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:43:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Chain guide

Chris,
I use the Scott's guard, it works well and  lasts, I have not had to
replace the rubbing block yet, it also fits my RMX.
                               Jim A.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 05:22:57 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash

I jacked the bike up last night & decided to take the forks out &
have the resprung/revalved by Thumper.  I loosened the clamps
everywhere, but they didnt come sliding out as I thought they would.
Is there something thats NOT obvious about taking the forks off a
bike (never done this before)?  Any hints/help appreciated.  Has
anyone on this list had the fork work done by Thumper?

The reason I started doing this last night is because I had to loosen
the tripple clamps to un-twist my forks.  I finally did my first "rag-
doll"!!!  Ok, not as cool as the crashes on Crusty Demons of Dirt,
but this was live & in 3-D!  I finally got the confidence to go up
this pretty steep hill since I got my new tires (IRC GP110's...$100
for both, good traction, good on road).  Once I made it up, had to go
back down.  OK the first 4-5 times, then I guess I got
careless/tired/?  Coming down at a pretty good speed, my front tire
stayed in a rut, while me the rest of the bike decided to go to one
side.  I'm amazed at how this fairly shallow rut so effectively
guided my tire straight as I was trying to turn out of it.  Well, we
hit pretty hard at 2/3 down hill, then slid a little.  I have a
little sore shoulder, wrist & knee...but not bad.  NO damage to
biek!! Yeah!  This is too cool....if I'd have had a little slide on
any of the sportbikes I've owned recently, I'd be out $1K minimum.

Take care-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE (hanging from garage ceiling)



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Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:46:53 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash

Bryan,

First ensure all of the pinch bolts are loose enough to be spun outward by hand,
then grasp the upper fork tube between the upper & lower clamp and/or under the
fork boot (loosen it's upper clamp then scoot it down), an finally
simultaneously twist and pull downward. If it doesn't budge, then use a large
blade screwdriver and gently wedge the offending clamp apart - it will not take
much - and they should drop down.

Thumper sends them to Scott's here in SoCal for the work. They do good work, but
have you considered Norm Kouba (1-208-939-3753) or Bob Bell (619-593-7473)? Norm
does DRs only, Bob seems to have a good thing going, and (George @) Scott's
definitely works on all brands/types; seems it would be better to have someone
most focused on DRs do your work.

John




"Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]> on 04/29/99 05:22:57 AM

Please respond to "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>

To:   [e-mail]
cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
Subject:  (dr350) fork work; first cool crash




I jacked the bike up last night & decided to take the forks out &
have the resprung/revalved by Thumper.  I loosened the clamps
everywhere, but they didnt come sliding out as I thought they would.
Is there something thats NOT obvious about taking the forks off a
bike (never done this before)?  Any hints/help appreciated.  Has
anyone on this list had the fork work done by Thumper?

The reason I started doing this last night is because I had to loosen
the tripple clamps to un-twist my forks.  I finally did my first "rag-
doll"!!!  Ok, not as cool as the crashes on Crusty Demons of Dirt,
but this was live & in 3-D!  I finally got the confidence to go up
this pretty steep hill since I got my new tires (IRC GP110's...$100
for both, good traction, good on road).  Once I made it up, had to go
back down.  OK the first 4-5 times, then I guess I got
careless/tired/?  Coming down at a pretty good speed, my front tire
stayed in a rut, while me the rest of the bike decided to go to one
side.  I'm amazed at how this fairly shallow rut so effectively
guided my tire straight as I was trying to turn out of it.  Well, we
hit pretty hard at 2/3 down hill, then slid a little.  I have a
little sore shoulder, wrist & knee...but not bad.  NO damage to
biek!! Yeah!  This is too cool....if I'd have had a little slide on
any of the sportbikes I've owned recently, I'd be out $1K minimum.

Take care-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE (hanging from garage ceiling)



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:24:15 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash

>Thumper sends them to Scott's here in SoCal for the work. They do good work, but
>have you considered Norm Kouba (1-208-939-3753) or Bob Bell (619-593-7473)? Norm
>does DRs only, Bob seems to have a good thing going, and (George @) Scott's
>definitely works on all brands/types; seems it would be better to have someone
>most focused on DRs do your work.
>
>John


Bob Bell is giving discounts if you say that Eldon Carl sent you from Dual Sport News...great
prices...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:13:28 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Lessons learned from riding a DR-SE!!

1. Ruts are your enemy.......slow down!
2. The smoother the terrain, the better
3. Short shift it baby!!
4. Hills are meant for avoiding.
5. Mud WILL slam you face first!
6. Prepare to become proficient at straightening tweaked front ends.
7. Thou shall rejet!
8. mirrors are good branch catchers!
9. Sand WILL slam you shoulder first.
10. Modify your stock DR so none of the above happens so easily!

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #34
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