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1999-04-19
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From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest)
To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #24
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr350-digest Tuesday, April 20 1999 Volume 01 : Number 024
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:57:19 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) pro taper bars
Nick,
After a 20-year layoff, I decided to enter an enduro. I have ProTapers & a dirt
DR, so the light switch/turn signal/etc. mount is not a problem for me.
I fastened the Link narrow roll chart between the decomp. clutch levers, with
enough space left for the kill button between the roll chart knobs. The
extra-large digits stop watch is mounted on the bar base between the two
perches. And the backup bicycle computer is on the right.
Hope this helps.
John
Snip...
Also, with no cross bar, where do you mount the route sheet holder and for
my occasional enduro, the clock and electric odometer ?
Snip...
Anyone got any input ?
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:16:13 -0700
From: <john.gill@conexant.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Tony,
I have ridden both the 650 and the 400 recently; all of the comments will be vs.
my dirt DR.
The 650 is quite tall and heavy, but does not feel that way once underway,
except in mud or tight trails, woods, and sand whoops. It does better than the
other two in high-speed desert conditions and on the road though. A real tractor
and a good DP mount for more road/open trails. Fits taller folks well.
The 400 has a nicer slim feel, aggressive sitting position, and better stock
suspension settings, slightly easier to turn, but no real noticeable gain in
power; rather uninspiring. The DR makes better bottom but the 400 will rev
further, stock. When the 400 woner and I switched, we agreed my 441 would light
up the rear tire & throw roost while the 400 hooked up a little better in the
dirt but got left behind when traction was halfway decent. I'd say the 400 is
better off road, stock for stock, if you are a more agressive type.
The stock DRES is heavy (close to the 650), soft and cushy, good for exlporing.
If you want to go fast you can upgrade it later but if you are leaning toward
dirt performance, the dirt version or the 400 is a better choice.
John
I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.
The dirt only version sure seems better than the SE (50 lbs, pumper
carb, etc), but I need a street legal bike. Does the dirt only version
have enough stator to run street lights? Is it geared high enough to do
70 mph for awhile without infernoizing?
Also, I know everyone loves their bikes, but if you had it to do over
again would you try to come up with the extra cash to buy an XR400 and
legalize it, or a XR650L instead of the DR?
I want a bike that will wheelie and roost, be agile on the trail, and
keep up on the highway to the next trail. I know this is like asking
for gain and bandwidth on an amp design, but what bike represents the
best compromise of dirt worthiness and road readiness? I've been riding
a Yamaha TW200 for 2 years-great fun, but I have REALLY outgrown it.
Thanks for the help!
- --
Tony Kurth
*** NEW EMAIL ADDRESS IS: tkurth@raytheon.com ***
Senior Junior Level Circuit Designer
Raytheon Systems
Dallas, Tx
972-344-3541
__________________________________________________
If it doesn't stall, you didn't fall!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:57:57 -0500
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
Subject: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
Hi,
Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
all the time.
The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that: Not going to
happened.
If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
converted.
Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
George
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:02:23 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
>Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
>call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
>George
they may have just come in from milking the cows and listening to polka music (joke folks, I
love Wisconsin)...I would call Alan Roach at Baja Designs...he keeps track of this stuff pretty
closely....the other option is to get it registered in another state as a street bike and then
register it in Wisconsin...
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:03:39 -0800
From: Alan Mueller <norton2@earthlink.net>
Subject: (dr350) tires
Hi,
I have a 98 Dr350SE with M21 Parrelli tires. What do you all recommend
for tire pressure?
- --
Alan M
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:12:50 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) tires
Re: Tire pressure
I use manufacturer's specs, which I think are 24 PSI, for highway and higher
speeds on gravel. For trail riding, especially in mud, I lower the pressure
to about 15 psi. TW
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:13:15 -0600
From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:30:00 -0400
Well, to be complete, you could also loosten the front axel. Otherwise, I
agree with your comments.
TW
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:22:41 -0400
From: "WDSRC" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
George
Email me directly and I can forward you the info on how to do it. you MUST
have a certificate of origin from the dealer or you'll have a headache
getting the bike bonded to pull this off
Robert
Florida
- -----Original Message-----
From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net>
To: dr350@lists.xmission.com <dr350@lists.xmission.com>
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 6:01 PM
Subject: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
>Hi,
>
>Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
>model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
>all the time.
>The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that: Not going to
>happened.
>If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
>converted.
>Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
>call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
>George
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:47:48 -0700
From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
njkouba@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895
>
> My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose. After a while the crank
> case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.
>
> I took the carb apart and cleaned it. Checked the float level. In my
> minimal experience it looks to be ok. Obviously not! Any ideas what would
> cause this on this particular bike? Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
>
> Scott: The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or something in
> it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on. If that was the case, one can
> just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb, turn fuel
> back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb dissambly.
> You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the carb drain,
> open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up alongside
> the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb seam, or
> slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is staight up and
> down. This will also let you know if the float itself is taking on gas or
> is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a month, it is a
> good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float bowl
> internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member of the
> newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where to get a
> subscription. They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope this
> helps. Norm
>
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> DR. DR
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
DR S Models have a prime mode position on the fuel petcock as well as an on
position which is actvated by engine vacuum. Prime is to fill the carb that is
empty for
what ever reason. If left in prime position and a problem with the float
mechanism
exists, your problem of flooding the engine is very likley. In the on position
once
the engine is off the diaphragm on the fuel petcock shuts off making flooding
unlikley
hope this info.helps
Jesse@mail.is_plus.net
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 02:58:55 -0500
From: "chasmatic" <chasmatic@email.msn.com>
Subject: (dr350) tire sizes
I'm about due to replace my current rear and was thinking that a 4.60 might
work better. Was wondering if anyone has bumped their rear tire size to a
4.60 X 18 on their DR350ES? The standard would be a 4.10 X 18. Were their
any problems? How did it work? Thanks
Harral
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 04:55:08 PDT
From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com>
Subject: (dr350) Float level adjustment?? (was: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
Help me out here guys. Since I've cut open my airbox & installed
K&Nfilter, I've had my carb off a few times recently putting in the
JX needle/spring, (didnt completely solve the hesitiation in higher
rpms) then richer pilot & main jets (BIG improvement, but idled
rough....prob a little too rich).
Sunday I was out practicing some jumps for an hour or so and was
realizing that the bike wasn't performing well just off idle under
hard acceleration (did my first completely-in-the-air
jump...cool!!). Riding home, the bike was idleing even rougher, and
died at stoplights a few times.
So now I gotta go back into the carb, as this is now a reliability
issue. One of the list members emailed me privately about his
similar experience and said the float level could be the problem.
The second time I had carb off, I completely yanked all the orange
plastic float assembly out to be able to get to the pilot jet. I
only remember a little post like stud w/ an o-ring seal around the
base of it that held it into a hole. I really dont see what can be
adjusted with regards to the float?!?!?! Can anyone help me out here?
Also, the aforementioned list member, and one of the tech guys at
Thumper Racing, said that I could try to get rid of rough idleing and
poor low end performance by adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw. I
remember seeing that little brass thing w/the pinhole in it, and will
drill it out & monkey with it. Anyone adjusted this & can share
settings?
Thanks. (this is an excellent list Kurt!)
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)
jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
>Reply-To: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net>
>To: njkouba@ix.netcom.com, dr350@lists.xmission.com
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
>Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:47:48 -0700
>
>
>
>njkouba@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895
>>
>> My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose. After a while the
crank
>> case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.
>>
>> I took the carb apart and cleaned it. Checked the float level.
In my
>> minimal experience it looks to be ok. Obviously not! Any ideas
what would
>> cause this on this particular bike? Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Scott: The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or
something in
>> it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on. If that was the
case, one can
>> just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb,
turn fuel
>> back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb
dissambly.
>> You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the
carb drain,
>> open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up
alongside
>> the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb
seam, or
>> slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is
staight up and
>> down. This will also let you know if the float itself is taking
on gas or
>> is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a
month, it is a
>> good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float
bowl
>> internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member
of the
>> newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where
to get a
>> subscription. They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope
this
>> helps. Norm
>>
>> Suzuki DR Suspensions
>> DR. DR
>> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
>
>DR S Models have a prime mode position on the fuel petcock as well
as an on
>position which is actvated by engine vacuum. Prime is to fill the
carb that is
>empty for
>what ever reason. If left in prime position and a problem with the
float
>mechanism
>exists, your problem of flooding the engine is very likley. In the
on position
>once
>the engine is off the diaphragm on the fuel petcock shuts off making
flooding
>unlikley
>hope this info.helps
>Jesse@mail.is_plus.net
>
>
_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 06:10:03 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Float level adjustment?? (was: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
+AD4-So now I gotta go back into the carb, as this is now a reliability
+AD4-issue. One of the list members emailed me privately about his
+AD4-similar experience and said the float level could be the problem.
+AD4-The second time I had carb off, I completely yanked all the orange
+AD4-plastic float assembly out to be able to get to the pilot jet. I
+AD4-only remember a little post like stud w/ an o-ring seal around the
+AD4-base of it that held it into a hole. I really dont see what can be
+AD4-adjusted with regards to the float?+ACE-?+ACE-?+ACE- Can anyone help me out here?
Sure Brian, the author of this excellent primer on CV carbs is a guy named Redondo +ACI-Ron+ACI- +ACI-Man
of+ACI- La Mantia, he is quite capable but a little shy and lurks on this list. Page down about 3
or 4 screens and you get some great pics and a simple explanation of the float system...
http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
Thanks for the good words on the list...we're off to a good start (104) listers in the first
month...but wait until we reach Woodstock proportions...+ACI-by the time we got to Woodstock we
were.....+ACI-
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:32:42 -0700
From: loren bohl <lbohl@central.ecasd.k12.wi.us>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
George Kovacs wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
> model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
> all the time.
> The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that: Not going to
> happened.
> If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
> converted.
> Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
> call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
> George
If the state of wis consin does not have the correct V>I>N> number you
will not EVER get a liscence and registration for that motorcycle, Been
there tried that!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:20:07 +0100
From: "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com>
Subject: (dr350) New Member from Portugal - Claudio
Hi guys,
I am new to this list so I will introduce myself to the list.
My name is Claudio, I am 25 years old, been riding bikes since I am
10, live in Lisbon (Portugal) and I am addicted to bikes !
I have been always the RR type of biker (I have owned an Aprilia
Futura, Honda CBR600F, Yamaha YZF1000R ThunderAce and currently own a
Yamaha YZF-R1) but last year I decided to buy a 1993 Suzuki DR350S
from a good friend of mine.
The bike only had 20.000 Km / 12.500 miles and its only problem was
some rust spots in the frame. The bike was completely stock.
I have already done some mods to it. Tomaselli handlebar, Renthal
Pro-grips, Polini Rally/Brush guards, Twin Air Filter and braided
stainless steel brake lines. I am using a rear Michelin Cross
Competion 120/90 - 18 and a front Michelin Enduro Competion 90/90 -
21. I have ordered a 12 teeth front sprocket from Renthal and I am
waiting for it.
I don't ride it on public roads, only use it for dirt riding, so I
took the mirrors, blinkers, license plate hanger all out.
I will take some pics of it and post it on my webpage.
Looking forward to receive some info about the DR.
Best Regards,
ThunderSUB (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789
thundersub@bigfoot.com
ICQ# [3072424]
* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1
------------------------------
End of dr350-digest V1 #24
**************************