ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/v01.n023

Internet Message Format | 1999-04-18 | 15KB

From: [e-mail] (dr350-digest)
To: [e-mail]
Subject: dr350-digest V1 #23
Reply-To: dr350-digest
Sender: [e-mail]
Errors-To: [e-mail]
Precedence: bulk


dr350-digest          Monday, April 19 1999          Volume 01 : Number 023




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:09:33 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Valve lash settings?

>Anyone know the lash specs for the valve on a 94 dr350se?  Do I adjust
>them hot or cold?  Thanks!
>PJ


stone cold...

intake 0.05-0.10 mm or .002 - .004 "

exhaust 0.17 - 0.22 mm or .007-.009"

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:19:28 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tire changing question..

I've got my rear tire off and am changing it out. The tube came out with two 12mm nuts one on
the inside of the wheel one on the outside of the wheel. Is the one on the inside supposed to
be there or is it a remnant of someone who forgot to take it off before?

Thanks,

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:41:27 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tire changing question..

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
To: DR List <[e-mail]>; KLR650-List
<[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 11:19 AM
Subject: (dr350) Tire changing question..


> I've got my rear tire off and am changing it out. The tube came out with
two 12mm nuts one on
> the inside of the wheel one on the outside of the wheel. Is the one on the
inside supposed to
> be there or is it a remnant of someone who forgot to take it off before?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt
>
>
>

Hi Kurt,

The nut on the inside is the one that holds the tube to the valve stem.
Some bikes use a nut on the outside to hold the valve stem to the rim (which
I don't think is a good idea) and for sealing the gap around the valve stem
to keep dirt and water out.  My XR has a larger hole in the rim for the
valve stem and a rubber cover over the gap.  This will let the valve stem
move around some without pulling it out of the tube.

You only need one nut on the inside and check it to make sure it is snug.

Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:51:25 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question

   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:40:36 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question

>   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
>Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
>pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?
>
>Thanks
>Mike A.
>Nashville


I'm pretty sure 142 psi is spec...what year is your bike...

Kurt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:56:12 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>; Doug Bragg
<[e-mail]>; 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question


>
>
> >   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
> >Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
> >pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Mike A.
> >Nashville
>
>
> I'm pretty sure 142 psi is spec...what year is your bike...
>
> Kurt
>
>
>


It is probably not a good idea to check your rear shock pressure.  The
quantity of nitrogen gas inside the shock is very small and checking it will
lose alot of it.  If you suspect your gas pressure is low take it to a shop
that will refill your shock and have them recharge it to the specified
pressure.  Cost for this is minimal.
It is also under very high pressure and most regular tire guages won't read
this high.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:35:35 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question

I agree with what Fred says below.  My local shop will re-charge for $5.

BTW, I'm just in the process of re-valving my shock, and it is unbelievable
how filthy and disgusting the shock (and fork) oil gets after just a couple
years.  I will definitely be replacing my suspension fluids yearly from now
on.

MX Tuner has a nice article in this month's Off Road magazine.  IMO, this is
a good start for anyone who is interested in working on their shock:

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/mar99/db101/db101shock.html

I found getting into the DR shock less complicated than the YZ shock shown.
And the forks are even easier.

Bryan
'96 DR441

>
> It is probably not a good idea to check your rear shock pressure.  The
> quantity of nitrogen gas inside the shock is very small and checking it will
> lose alot of it.  If you suspect your gas pressure is low take it to a shop
> that will refill your shock and have them recharge it to the specified
> pressure.  Cost for this is minimal.
> It is also under very high pressure and most regular tire guages won't read
> this high.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 07:15:09 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question

  Thank you all for your advice. Kurt, my DR is a 95.

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:50:00 -0400
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) White plains NY

I was emailing back and forth with a guy from White plains NY who was
looking for places to ride with his son. I can't remember his name, but I
think he's on this list.
Could you email me. I have something I want to email to you

thanks,
Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 08:55:05 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]

>From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: help with misaligned stem/fork
>Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:54:01 EDT
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-type: text/plain
>
>Hi everyone
>
> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?
>
>thanks
>Bryant
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 08:19:43 -0700
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member  submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]

> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?

I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
straighten things back out.

In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.

Bryan
'96 DR441

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:33:59 -0600
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]: Non-member
submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]


>
> > I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
> >I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
> >that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
> >wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
> >that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
> >bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
> >somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?
>
> I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
> end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
> straighten things back out.
>
> In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
> ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.
>
> Bryan
> '96 DR441
>
>

Loosen only the upper triple clamp or you will have a "DR Low Rider"
Straddle the front wheel and move your handlebars where you think they are
straight.  Be sure and tighten both the upper and lower triple clamps and
check them from time to time to be sure they stay tight.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:31:49 -0600
From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:30:00 -0400

I wouldn't say that this is a dr thing. It's happened on all my bikes after
I take a hard fall, or the bike take a hard hit to the ground. Just put the
bike up on a stand. Loosen all the triple clamp bolts and then after they
are all loose. tighten them back up and the problem should be solved. It's
better for the front end to twist then bend.

I argued for a half day with a guy once. After he took a spill, he kept
complaining Oh man, I bent a fork. Finally after me almost forcing him by
actually stopping on the trail and taking tools out. he loosend everything,
then tightend and problem solved.

Nick
 ----------
From: Bryan Cowger
To: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member
submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]
Date: Monday, April 19, 1999 11:19AM


> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?

I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
straighten things back out.

In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.

Bryan
'96 DR441

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:33:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]

 rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895

My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose.  After a while the crank
case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.

I took the carb apart and cleaned it.  Checked the float level.  In my
minimal experience it looks to be ok.  Obviously not!  Any ideas what would
cause this on this particular bike?  Thanks in advance.

Scott

Scott:  The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or something in
it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on.  If that was the case, one can
just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb, turn fuel
back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb dissambly.
You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the carb drain,
open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up alongside
the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb seam, or
slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is staight up and
down.  This will also let you know if the float itself is taking on gas or
is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a month, it is a
good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float bowl
internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member of the
newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where to get a
subscription.  They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope this
helps.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:48:32 -0700
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Cheap knee braces!!

John & Others,

I tried several types of these less-expensive brands, and decided to go without
as the backside of the knee becomes irritated from the rubbing of the material
against the skin; it's most noticed while seated. The CTIs and like are out as
they push the knees outward, away from the tank, giving that "riding a torpedo"
feel.

John

I just got a set of inexpensive knee braces. Bought them at Big 5 Sporting
Goods for about $30 each. They are made of neophrene and have sturdy aluminum
hinged bracing along each side. If anyone is interested I will supply the
manufacturer.. Since they weren't specifically designed for dirt biking they
tend to rub a little when you are sitting. Otherwise they are quite good. I
use them under standard knee/shin guard protectors.

John f.

------------------------------

End of dr350-digest V1 #23
**************************