ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/dr350.199909

Internet Message Format | 1999-09-30 | 511KB

From: "RADIO RIVIERA MUSIC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: R: (dr350) New models
Date: 01 Sep 1999 12:22:17 +0200

Hi Jon,
in italian motorcycle magazine there is a news anbout this:
a new DR 400 ins liquid cooled and in two version: one racing ad one dual
sport.
We will can see this one in sptember at MILANO SALONE DEL MOTOCICLO.
I don't see any pictures.

Bye

Maurizio
DR350SE98 (with a lot of mod. )
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: Jonathan Moon <[e-mail]>
A: dr350 list <>
Data: marted=EC 31 agosto 1999 23:36
Oggetto: (dr350) New models


>
>When is Suzuki supposed to come out with the new DR350 (400?)?
>
>Anybody have an idea?
>
>Also, how does a DR350 compare to a Honda XR400 in off-road worthiness?
>
>Thanks from a newbie
>Jon
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
>
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350
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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) NEW !!! First pic of DRX400 (no photo)
Date: 01 Sep 1999 15:41:24 +0200

http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/DR400.htm


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo




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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GA Dual Sport Reminder
Date: 01 Sep 1999 10:56:20 -0400

just a reminder that the cut-off date for the Amsterdam, GA dual sport ride
is coming up on the 10th. GET YOUR ENTRIES IN ASAP!

Amsterdam is located 15 minutes south of Bainbridge GA, or 45 minutes north
of Tallahassee FL.

This is a challenging to difficult ride through a 14,000 acre pine planted
tobacco plantaion in southern Georgia. Proceeds benefit "Project Learning
Tree" a mobile interactive learnibg center that travels to schools teaching
teachers and students about healthy forestry practices. It the only program
going directly where only greenies have treaded before!

For more information about the ride and an entry form, visit the
Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders Website at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245

The Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders are Southern Dual Sporters from all
around the Southeastern United States. Visit the site, check us out, and
join us! We dual sport, Southern Style!

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet!"


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) NEW !!! First pic of DRX400 (no photo)
Date: 01 Sep 1999 15:23:50 EDT

Anybody having luck with this url?  It just kicks me off AOL everytime I
paste it and go.

Doug

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) NEW !!! First pic of DRX400 (no photo)
Date: 01 Sep 1999 15:30:22 EDT

In a message dated 9/1/99 2:28:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Anybody having luck with this url?  It just kicks me off AOL everytime I
 paste it and go.
  >>


Looks like my computer might be glitching!

Doug

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) NEW !!! First pic of DRX400 (no photo)
Date: 01 Sep 1999 14:12:09 -0700

Hi Doug, I got it, great picture. I can't read spanish but the picture is great It
looks like its a dual sport model, liquid cooled, dohc and it says 5cv's more than the
wr400 whatever a cv is thanks for posting it.

Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> In a message dated 9/1/99 2:28:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Anybody having luck with this url?  It just kicks me off AOL everytime I
>  paste it and go.
>   >>
>
> Looks like my computer might be glitching!
>
> Doug
>
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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) The URL with the pics of new DRX400 works fine...
Date: 02 Sep 1999 00:28:03 +0200

Some people say that it doesn't work , but I assure you that it works
correctly.
The pic is in http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/DR400.htm .

If you have problems with this url, warn me and I will revise it
I hope you like
_________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The URL with the pics of new DRX400 works fine...
Date: 01 Sep 1999 20:18:56 EDT

Kevin,

I appreciate the reply.  I think the problem was with my computer.  This
morning lightning hit by my house while I was online and I had to pull the
plug...my computer was punishing me for the rude turn off.  I got it going
again and the picture came through fine.

Thanks again,
Doug

P.S.  The DRX looks promising!

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) upcoming dual sport event
Date: 01 Sep 1999 18:06:57 -0700

September 11th marks the date of the 5th annual Dual Star Tarmac To
Timberline, a dual sport ride held at the historic mining town of Liberty,
WA.  For details, map and directions, see the following web page:
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/tttmap.html

For photos of previous year's rides, see the following page:
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html

This is one of the best dual sport events in Washington.

Doug


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) What Is dual Sport?
Date: 02 Sep 1999 13:27:38 -0400

Hello Dual Sporters! There's been a rash of "what is dual sport" burning
down the lists, so I'd like to add my five dollars worth.

I wrote and printed the following in a past issue of "Southern Dual
Sporter", the publication of the Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders, in an
attempt to inform our members (200+) of the differences in dual sporting and
to educate them in the diversity , and the beauty, of dual sporting as a
whole. A fully rounded dual sporter is one that can enjoy the elegance of
Adventure Touring, while understanding the convinience of running to the
quickie-mart, along with the appreciation of the wilderness by getting down
and dirty with nature. One type of dual sporter is no better than the other.
We are the same, yet different, that's what makes it a wonderful sport. No
one is "stuck in a rut" as they can alway expand their dual sporting
horizons. So hop on your bike and take a ride. Whether it's across the
country, down a country lane, or out at the ORV area. Enjoy it. Don't Spoil
It. Remember "Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be QUIET!"

Robert Frey
KTM RXC620
Founder: Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders
Publisher: Southern Dual Sporter/Florida Dual
Sporter Newsletter

To Discover More About Florida and other Southern Dual Sporting
Opportunities visit our website at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
What is Dual Sport?


I've been asked, and in some cases told quite matter-of-factly, what dual
sport motorcycle riding really is.

I've been hammered by the street guys' sides that they thought that it was
being able to ride on roads (dirt), and from dirt bike guys who thought
there wouldn't be any roads (pavement/graded).
The riders are all different, the bikes are numerous and varied, and the
events are heaven to some and hell to others.

Dual sporting is an abstract idea due to the many variations that people
bring into it. As such, I'd like to take a little time and try to break dual
sporting down so we can at least have some groundwork to focus on.

 I've taken dual sport riders and divided them into three different
categories.

To begin with, we'll go with the Adventure Bikes. These are the big street
bikes that people can ride on dirt roads with. All right, some hearty fools
will take them further and farther off-road, but as this happens, the fun
factor decrease and the work factor increase. These are bikes of the like as
the BMW GS, Triumph's Tiger, the big Kawasaki KLR650, Honda's TransAlp, I
think you get the picture. Let's put these guys in the 90% street/10%dirt
colomn.  Bikes that are more at home on the street, the interstate, and
trans continental travel, but cosmetically look the part. Kinda like the
Lincoln Navagator and the Chevy Suburban. How many of those do you see
wallowing through the mud holes?

Next I come to what I term the Explorer Bikes. To me, this is the largest
segment of the market. We're looking at bikes you can ride to the 7-Eleven,
take a little road trip on (may be uncomfortable after an hour or two), and
take onto a two-track trail with ease, but will be a bit heavy and a
handfull on a single track trail. I like to break this up into Heavyweight
and Lightweight divisions. Heavyweights are bikes like the KLX650, Honda's
XRL650, Suzuki's DR650, etc.  Bikes that have the capacity to haul butt on
the highway, are still flickable on a two track trail, and can make it down
a single track trail but with a lot of rider effort. The Lightweights are
made up of 400cc and under  bracket:  DR350, KLR250, XRL250, XT350, XT225,
DR200, etc. Once again, can take 'em to 7-Eleven, you can take 'em on a
little trip but it'd be better not too, at home on two-track trails, are
easily managible and light on singletrack trails. Consider these your Jeep
Wranglers, F-150 4x4s, HumVee's, etc.

That leaves us with the third group: Street-Legal Trail. These are the bikes
that are at home on the single tracks, and would not like to see any
pavement. This segment includes the KTM RXC's, ATK's, Husabergs, etc. The
bikes that are essentially dirt bikes with lights. It also includes every
street converted dirtbike like the XR400, KLX300, WR400. The automotive
equivilant to these would be your sandrails, Baja Rally trucks, tanks, etc.

Like I  said earlier: Different strokes for different folks. Dual sport is
so diverse, it's even difficult to categorize the bikes. There are some
people that will cross over the categories with a bike like the guy that
rode his DR350 from New York to Colorado for the Steam Boat Vintage Days or
to the riders that wrestle their big BMW's through the sand at the Daytona
dual sport event. It is all dependent upon what you, as the rider, are
looking to do with the bike, as to what form of dual sporting you can place
yourself in.

Now to tackle a dual sport event. Anytime you get a group of people
together, somebody's going to love it, and somebody's going to think it's as
bad as moldy bread. The easiest way to do this is to break them into three
categories,  Easy, Challenging, and Difficult.

The easy ride is one that covers pavement, dirt, graded and gravel roads, or
even wide, easy, two track trails. What the forest service calls improved
roads. Places you'd take your Rodeo or Durango. No problem for big bikes and
riding two-up.

A challenging course would be  one that would incorporate limited paved
roads, gravel/dirt roads, and two track jeep trails. Mud, uphills,
downhills, ruts, etc. The rider should have some off-road riding ability,
and a passenger may have to get off and walk a few times.

A difficult rating would be one that is mostly two-track and single track
tarils, riders should be "B" class or better riders, highly proficient at
off road riding and a route that is not suitable for passengers.

Now if a promotor can tie it all to gether they'd have an easy route with
challenging and difficult options open to the riders. Once again, a little
of everything, just like the bikes and riders themselves. This is a
difficult task, but we should all be thankful that someone goes out of their
way to at least try to put a dual sport event on for others to enjoy.
Whether the ride was too easy or too difficult for you, just remember, you
could've been home entertaining the in-laws  instead of out in the woods
with a bunch of like minded souls.

The Bottom Line:  Know HOW you want to ride MOST of the time, and then
decide what kind of bike to get to keep you happy MOST of the time. That way
you won't get discouraged by having the wrong equipment to do the job you
want while your in the wrong place to do it. There's nothing worse that
trying to change your spark plug using a hammer, while you're on a rock
ledge.

If you remember that dual sport is a compromise to begin with, you can adapt
that to your ability and make decisions that will affect how well you enjoy
the sport. Dual sporters are the ultimate SUV's.

Keep Your Bars Up And Your Sound Down....

Robert Frey
KTM RXC620
Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders
Southern Dual Sporter Newsletter
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) I need advice
Date: 02 Sep 1999 22:29:55 +0200

Hello. Today I went to the shop to make a revision (each 6000 km, and I have
18000 km) to my DR350SE . They changed it the brake pads, oil, adjustment of
valves... and all theses cost 20000 (140 $ USA), what I find too much.
I have thought to make myself the revisions (to change oil, adjustment of
valves...) and I wanted to know if the adjust valves is very complicated and
they are necessary special tools.
Is it useful the books of Clymer about DR350 ? My model is the 99, but this
manual single sandal of the 90-94... although I believe that the motor is
exactly same. Is this a good book? Does it indicate as carrying out the
maintenance and adjustments of valves?

Another thing... how many km does the distribution chain last?

Thank you


(and sorry for the translation)

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Enrique_Su=E1rez_Reyes?= <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) AIR SCREW
Date: 02 Sep 1999 22:47:34 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEF595.25B4F120
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello, i want quit the air screw 1T 1/8 of the carb of my dr 350 99, but =
, where is the air screw on the carb ? on side left or side right, on =
the top or the down ? near of ...
thanks
Enrique.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEF595.25B4F120
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello, i want quit the air screw 1T 1/8 =
of the carb=20
of my dr 350 99, but , where is the air screw on the carb ? on side left =
or side=20
right, on the top or the down ? near of ...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Enrique.</DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEF595.25B4F120--


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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) AIR SCREW
Date: 02 Sep 1999 17:17:22 -0400


=?iso-8859-1?Q?Enrique_Su=E1rez_Reyes?= <[e-mail]> wrote:
>






Hello, i want quit the air screw 1T 1/8 =
of the carb=20
of my dr 350 99, but , where is the air screw on the carb ? on side left =
or side=20
right, on the top or the down ? near of ...
thanks
Enrique.

Enrique:  Heres the bad news first.  Your DR carb does not have an air screw.  Now the good news, it has a fuel screw that is located on the bottom in front of the slide, if your DR is an "S" model it may have a cap over it.  Good luck  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) I need advice
Date: 02 Sep 1999 19:57:22 -0700

Pablo wrote:
Pablo,

If you are mechnically inclined you should be able to perform those
services yourself.  The brake pad change is simple and does not require
any special tools.  Same for the oil change.

The valve adjustment can also be performed without any special tools,
but buying a set of special valve adjustment wrenches will make the job
much easier.  I bought mine from a company called Pro-Active.  You
should be able to order them through DENNIS KIRK or any other large
supply shop.

I use the SUZUKI shop manual.  It is very good and can be ordered from
your dealer.  I think the cost was $49.00(US).

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's

> Hello. Today I went to the shop to make a revision (each 6000 km, and I have
> 18000 km) to my DR350SE . They changed it the brake pads, oil, adjustment of
> valves... and all theses cost 20000 (140 $ USA), what I find too much.
> I have thought to make myself the revisions (to change oil, adjustment of
> valves...) and I wanted to know if the adjust valves is very complicated and
> they are necessary special tools.
> Is it useful the books of Clymer about DR350 ? My model is the 99, but this
> manual single sandal of the 90-94... although I believe that the motor is
> exactly same. Is this a good book? Does it indicate as carrying out the
> maintenance and adjustments of valves?
>
> Another thing... how many km does the distribution chain last?
>
> Thank you
>
> (and sorry for the translation)
>
>

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Looking for VA riders
Date: 02 Sep 1999 21:02:24 -0500

I am moving to Richmond Virginia in October.  I'd like to ride the fire
roads and trails in the Charlottesville / Shennandoah area and George
Washington National Forest.  Where do I hook up with riders in the area
or find out more info about where riding is allowed?

Thanks
Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, FL (until October)
'92 DR350S

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From: "Joel Ashman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Looking for VA riders
Date: 02 Sep 1999 21:46:37 -0400

Chuck

The GW and Jefferson National Forests website is:

http://www.fs.fed.us/gwjnf/

With the Off Road Vehicles Trails page at:

http://www.fs.fed.us/gwjnf/orvtrails.html

There are apparently many trails available for OVRs

I'm here in N. VA near Dulles Airport, and I'm looking to head out there w.
a friend in a few weekends.  He's got a new 99 XT350 he wants to try out.  I
want to show him why he should have bought a DR.

Drop me a line when you make it to VA.


--Joel
If anyone else in the N. VA area wants to plan a ride, let me know.  I have
a Truck and 3 Bike trailer.  I can manage 5 bikes for the 90 minute drive to
GW Forest.

Joel Ashman
[e-mail]

99 SV650
92 DR350S



 -----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]  On Behalf Of charles w vokac
Sent:    Thursday, September 02, 1999 10:02 PM

I am moving to Richmond Virginia in October.  I'd like to ride the fire
roads and trails in the Charlottesville / Shennandoah area and George
Washington National Forest.  Where do I hook up with riders in the area
or find out more info about where riding is allowed?

Thanks
Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, FL (until October)
'92 DR350S

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subject blank
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From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 02:59:46 -0500
Date: 03 Sep 1999 02:00:53 -0600

UNSUBSCRIBE DR 350 list




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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Enrique_Su=E1rez_Reyes?= <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) air screw
Date: 03 Sep 1999 10:18:36 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks all people for your answer.

Enrique. from Melilla, North Africa.  [e-mail]

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks all people for your =
answer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Enrique. from Melilla, North =
Africa. =20
[e-mail]</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: [e-mail] (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr350) I need advice
Date: 02 Sep 1999 22:56:53 +0200

Paplo,

if you have some basic skills you can do the revision yourself.
What you need is a set of good standard tools, and especially the tools for the valve
adjusting. The are not very expensive and your Suzuki-dealer should sell them.
You should try to get the original manual (if you bought your DR new from your dealer,
ask him to loan you the manual so you can make a copy). You can find there every
information you need.
About the chain: It really depends who and where you ride the bike (offroad, lots of
dust and mud...). But I think 18000 km are not bad for the original chain.

Rainer
(sorry for MY english)



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) shock spring change
Date: 04 Sep 1999 13:10:10 -0700

Can anyone answer this question.  I am in the process of changing the
spring on my rear shock.  I have both the lock nut and the pre-load nut
loose on the shock body but neither one of them can be removed because
of a boss that is cast into the upper portion of the shock body.  The
boss is where the banjo bolt attaches for the reservoir.  I have removed
the reservoir but there does not seem to be clearance to get the locknut
or pre-load nut off.  Without taking them off the spring cannot be
removed.

What do I do? Is there some 'trick' that I don't know?  I would
appreciate any help that some of you with more experiance can provide.

Thanks in advance,
--
David Heverin
(1) DR350-assembled
(1) DR350-waiting for new shock spring anf Kouba link

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) shock spring change
Date: 04 Sep 1999 13:54:14 -0400


[e-mail] wrote:
> Can anyone answer this question.  I am in the process of changing thespring on my rear shock.  I have both the lock nut and the pre-load nut
loose on the shock body but neither one of them can be removed because
of a boss that is cast into the upper portion of the shock body.  The
boss is where the banjo bolt attaches for the reservoir.  I have removed
the reservoir but there does not seem to be clearance to get the locknut
or pre-load nut off.  Without taking them off the spring cannot be
removed.

What do I do? Is there some 'trick' that I don't know?  I would
appreciate any help that some of you with more experiance can provide.

Thanks in advance,
--
David Heverin
(1) DR350-assembled
(1) DR350-waiting for new shock spring anf Kouba link

David, Assuming you have the stock rear shock, unscrew both preload nuts all the way untill they are up against the banjo connector.  Do not remove the banjo fitting.  Remove the 2 half circle retainers that are inside the collar on the lower end of the shock spring, and remove the collar and the spring off the bottom of the shock.  When installing a heavier spring one my need to force the spring up (compress slightly) to get the 2 half circle retainers seated back inside the collar if the first preload nut is started on the threads as it should be.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
Home of the Kouba Link

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) shock oil change
Date: 04 Sep 1999 23:44:43 -0400


[e-mail] wrote:
> Norm,
Thanks for the quick response!  I just talked with Jesse Kientz. He was
good enough to call me from the road, somewhere in the California
mountains.  He explained what to do.  However I had already taken the
banjo bolt off and drained the old oil out of the shock.  No problem,
I'm sure after ten years it probably needed an oil change  :-).

I looked in my Suzuki shop manual and it doesn't seem to say how much
oil or what weight goes back in the shock.  It also doesn't say what
pressure or how much nitrogen goes back into the reservoir.  So, If I
can ask for assistance one more time... Does anyone out there have this
information that you can pass on to me.  It would be greatly
appreciated.

David Heverin
> (1) DR350-assembled
> (1) DR350-waiting for new shock shock oil and nitrogen charge.

David: I am nut sure exactly how much oil the shock takes but it's less than 1 pint.  Suzuki reccomends 142lbs of nitrogen.  We usually run 100 lbs to 180 lbs.  The less presure the plusher the ride and visa versa. Suzuki does not tell us what weight of oil they use, but after doing some viscosity test, I believe it is somewhere between 5  and 7.5 wt. We use 10 wt. if a heavier spring is going to be used, to increase the overall rebound dampening. Yes, it will be a little stiff in cold weather and it will fade when it gets really hot. Also, when you replace the oil, be SURE to get ALL the air out by pumping the shock many many times with the remote resevoir connected to the shock and elevated above the banjo fitting on the shock.  Be sure to keep oil in the resevoir and do not let it run dry while pumping the shock.  When you put the bladder back in the resevoir, fill the resevoir 1/3 full and let the air and oil blede out the top of the resevoir when you install the bladder. !
To get that bladder out of the remote resevoir, you have to removed the inside snap ring by pushing down on the piston seal assembly, then put a rag over the end and put a little air into the shrader valve after removing the valve stem. It will pop right out, but be VERY CAREFULL with the shrader valve STEM housing,  as it is very fradgile, and Suzuki will not sell you ANY parts for that shock. They will sell you the complete shock assembly including spring to the tune of approx. $700.00  Let me know if you have a problem. The secret is be patient, and do not break anything.  Let me know if you get hung up and will help if we can.  Good luck  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Gear ratios
Date: 06 Sep 1999 00:12:34 EDT

I have a 97 DR359SE.  Can anyone tell me if the SE model and the Dirt only
model have the same transmission? In other words does one have a WR
transmission and the other a CR transmission?  These are the ratios for the
1997 SE model: 1st-2.500, 2nd-1.733, 3rd-1.333, 4th-1.111, 5th-0.952,
6th-0.826.

Thanks
Steve

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Gear ratios
Date: 06 Sep 1999 00:26:05 EDT

Ooops!  My last message should have read "I have a 1997 DR350SE".

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) shock spring change
Date: 04 Sep 1999 18:12:20 -0700

Norm,

Thanks for the quick response!  I just talked with Jesse Kientz. He was
good enough to call me from the road, somewhere in the California
mountains.  He explained what to do.  However I had already taken the
banjo bolt off and drained the old oil out of the shock.  No problem,
I'm sure after ten years it probably needed an oil change  :-).

I looked in my Suzuki shop manual and it doesn't seem to say how much
oil or what weight goes back in the shock.  It also doesn't say what
pressure or how much nitrogen goes back into the reservoir.  So, If I
can ask for assistance one more time... Does anyone out there have this
information that you can pass on to me.  It would be greatly
appreciated.

David Heverin
> (1) DR350-assembled
> (1) DR350-waiting for new shock shock oil and nitrogen charge.

..............................................................


[e-mail] wrote:
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
> > Can anyone answer this question.  I am in the process of changing thespring on my rear shock.  I have both the lock nut and the pre-load nut
> loose on the shock body but neither one of them can be removed because
> of a boss that is cast into the upper portion of the shock body.  The
> boss is where the banjo bolt attaches for the reservoir.  I have removed
> the reservoir but there does not seem to be clearance to get the locknut
> or pre-load nut off.  Without taking them off the spring cannot be
> removed.
>
> What do I do? Is there some 'trick' that I don't know?  I would
> appreciate any help that some of you with more experiance can provide.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> --
> David Heverin
> (1) DR350-assembled
> (1) DR350-waiting for new shock spring anf Kouba link
>
> David, Assuming you have the stock rear shock, unscrew both preload nuts all the way untill they are up against the banjo connector.  Do not remove the banjo fitting.  Remove the 2 half circle retainers that are inside the collar on the lower end of the shock spring, and remove the collar and the spring off the bottom of the shock.  When installing a heavier spring one my need to force the spring up (compress slightly) to get the 2 half circle retainers seated back inside the collar if the first
>
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> Home of the Kouba Link

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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 10:37:22 +0200

** High Priority **

Hi all

I'm just out of lurk mode for some quick observations, and a request
for assistance:

I've been considering which mid-range 4-stroke dual-sporter to buy, and
while I'm saving up the green-backs, I'm doing some further research.

I'm lucky enough to be in a country where road-worthiness is pretty
easy to achieve, and my primary consideration is therefore: what can I
get for my money.

Pricewise, here are my choices: (most expensive first, least expensive
last)

1) Yamaha WR400
2) Honda XR400
3) Kawasaki KLX300
4) Suzuki DR350

Other bikes are available, like KTM, Cagiva, and so on, but I'm not
listing them as they are extremely expensive here. Also, spares and
support are difficult to acquire, especially in country areas.

So here is my summary:

1) Yam WR400: my first choice, but I would need an Acerbis or Baja
Design roadlegal kit to comply with traffic laws, and this will push up
the price with around $500. Seat height is a bit too high, and I'm a bit
scared about all the electronic things that can go wrong there. Very
expensive (around $7500 here, without any extras)
2) Honda XR400: Second choice. Almost as expensive here as the WR!!!
Some local dealers offer a roadlegal kit as part of the price, though.
Bike is a bit too heavy, and technology is a dated. Very high seat
height. (around $7000)
3) Kawa KLX: This is almost the ideal choice, except that the 300cc
engine and CV carb makes me think that it's going to be a bit of a sheep
in wolf's clothing. I understand that the suspension is only good for
lighter riders, or for very tame trailing otherwise. I would have to
upgrade this, as well as install the 330cc barrel/piston set, and a
pumper carb. Mucho dinero. Also, the roadlegal kit would have to be an
added purchase. Nice bike, but would cost too much to upgrade. (around
$6000, but the suspension and engine mods could easily add another
$1500).
4) Suz-box DR: Very pretty bike, with excellent welding and cosmetics.
The SE version is available here, so I get an electric start too. From
you-all on this list, I have determined that the suspension and engine
need some work, but the basic bike seems a better deal, and it's also
the cheapest mid-size DS bike available here. (around $5300, plus pumper
carb ($370), Stroker exhaust ($380) & big bore kits ($400?), and
suspension upgrades ($400): around R7000)

So the crunch question is: do I upgrade the DR, or do I bite the bullet
and buy the XR, and try and get the seat-height down? (This issue is
critical, because my better half says I can buy a bike if she can ride
it too, and she has a problem with anything around the height of the
XR).

Here are a list of bikes I've owned, so please be sure I'm not a
beginner:
1981 Yam XT550
1980 Suzuki PE250
1982 Yam IT175
1982 Yam IT465
1982 Kawa KDX200
1984 Yam TT600
1984 Honda CR250
1982 KTM 250
1984 Yam IT490

I can also import a Yamaha TTR250 or Honda XLR250 for around $3200, but
I don't know these bikes at all, and it would be a "grey" import,
without proper local dealer support.

Let's hear what everybody thinks! I'll appreciate the feedback.

Cheers


Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 6:56:52 PDT

Jakes Louw wrote:

{snip very nice outline of bike buying decision}

  You've covered quite well the trade offs between buying an
inexpensive bike and upgrading it to buying a bike already set-up.

  What I most like about my DR350SE is that it is street legal without
any modifications, yet it's good enough off road that I can easily
ride with my friends.  My friends ride:

'86 Honda XR600R
'99 ATK 605
'99 Yamaha 250
'97 Honda XR400R
'96 Suzuki RMX250
'82 XL185S
'82 Suzuki RM125

  So you see we cover a wide range of bike types.  Some are
experienced, and some are novice.  We don't race, and we have no plans
to do so.  We ride in Poker Runs and Dual Sport events, yet these
aren't competition.  So you see, the DR350SE in stock trim fits my
needs just fine.  The Honda guys are very jealous of the magic button
:-)

  The Dual Sport event that I just finished was in Reno Nevada and it
covered over 350 miles in two days.  The riding type was everything
from desert to High mountain riding (over 7500 feet).  We took all of
the expert level cut offs and I only broke the rear chain guide for
the whole trip.

  With that in mind, if I were to enter a competition event, I would
either be looking at modifying my DR350SE (such as what you outlined),
or I would buy a different bike.  I personally feel that the DR350SE
in stock trim would hold me back if I wanted to race (too heavy,
suspension needs to be upgraded and not enough horsepower).

  So I guess what I'm saying is that what bike you get depends on what
type of riding you need to do.

  Regarding your wife, I don't know how experienced a rider your wife
is, but mine has ridden for a couple of years and she still rides her
'74 Yamaha DT125.  I can't convince her to even try my DR350SE even
though I know she could easily ride it.  The reason she won't try it
is because it's too tall looking.

> Jakes Louw
>
> HP-UX Systems Administrator

Cool!, so am I...going on 13 years now.

--
Scott Aldrich / EPSG UN*X Administrator
        Agilent  Technologies

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 08:15:34 -0600

>So the crunch question is: do I upgrade the DR, or do I bite the bullet
>and buy the XR, and try and get the seat-height down? (This issue is
>critical, because my better half says I can buy a bike if she can ride
>it too, and she has a problem with anything around the height of the
>XR).
>
>Here are a list of bikes I've owned, so please be sure I'm not a
>beginner:
>1981 Yam XT550
>1980 Suzuki PE250
>1982 Yam IT175
>1982 Yam IT465
>1982 Kawa KDX200
>1984 Yam TT600
>1984 Honda CR250
>1982 KTM 250
>1984 Yam IT490


Jakes, the answer to your question may be in the last two paragraphs.
Take the last first. Which of the bikes that you've owned were best
suited to the kind of riding you want to do with your new bike and why?
What kind of riding experience does your SO have? Seat height is going
to be a real issue with all of the bikes mentioned except the DR. My SO
just started riding and loves the DR. However, depending on your size it
may be difficult to set the bike up for your needs and retain the best
riding characteristics for her. Is the Yam XT-225 too sedate for your
tastes? How about the new Kaw Super Sherpa? I would recommend electric
start for your SO also.

Kurt


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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 16:24:53 +0200

** High Priority **

Scott

Thanks for the nice reply.

I suppose I could classify my riding level as "Intermediate Veteran":
I'm 37 next month, and not as fit as I used to be, but I certainly ride
a lot better than some people I know!

This bike-decision thing is really carving me up. My wife has the same
"it's too tall" problem, so I'm even considering 2 bikes!

I'd love to race again, but due to various historical problems (do a
Web search on "apartheid"), the bike market has been in a slump here
since the mid-1980's: it's only recovering now. Also, riding areas are
not designated like in the US, and we have un-ending hassles from the
authorities.

The only way to stay out of jail/court/whatever, is to ride a
road-legal bike, and then plead innocence. (Or else escape! ....:-)...)

By the way, I'm around 90 KGs (200lbs), so most "stock" suspensions
irritate me after the first decent jump, and especially after hitting
whoops or those little dunes one gets in the desert.....

I recently sold the IT490, as it was getting more and more difficult to
repair without a major rebuild. I've been without a ride for almost a
year, and the "itch" is really setting in...

By the way: I've been a UNIX admin for 6 years, and was in mainframes
for 7 years before that!

Regards



Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 16:34:19 +0200

** High Priority **

Kurt

Thanks. Like Scott, your reply is certainly useful.

It would appear 2 bikes is the only option......

The XT225 (they call it the Tecate?) is certainly far too sedate. Tell
me more about the Super Sherpa?

I'm looking at a 400-class thumper because even when I was fit, hauling
a Yamaha TT600 (145 KGs dry) around was more chore than pleasure. OK, I
used to challenge the other guys on their 2-strokes, but still, I reckon
if I tried to do that now, I'd be seeing the inside of a hospital pretty
soon...

I sat on an XR400 with the optional MX seat the other day, and I must
admit it felt good.
The DR350, on the other hand, just feels to low for me. But that "magic
button" sure is tempting.

Now I understand that the Yamaha TTR250 is quite good: chassis based on
the YZ, and a revamped 250cc SOHC with some work done on the valves,
header, exhaust and carb, but basically the same motor as the old XT250.
Also has electric start! Anybody seen one?

Regards


Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 08:56:12 PDT

Hi Jakes-

I assume you're in South Africa---? -so I would thing reliability would be
one of your top considerations.  All the bikes you're considering are great,
but I think the XR & the DR are the most bullet-proof.

I've had my 95 DR350SE for about 7 months now, and have been very happy with
it.  I've put about 2000 miles on it in that time, about half hiway/half off
road....its never let me down, always been fun to ride.  I've spent some $$$
on suspension, intake & exhaust modifications.  Current performance is
amazing when compared to how it performed when stock.  The DR has tons of
performance potential, and if you're willing to spend the money, probably is
the best option for upgrading to a larger engine: Thumper Racing in Texas
makes a 435cc kit for it that everyone says is excellent & very reliable.
But I've decided not to do this, since I'm so happy with the performance I'm
getting from the stock engine w/ the new Vortex airbox and jetting changes.
And of course, if you get the DR, you've got this list as a valuable
resource of info!

Good luck-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) KLX vs DR
>Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 10:37:22 +0200
>
>** High Priority **
>
>Hi all
>
>I'm just out of lurk mode for some quick observations, and a request
>for assistance:
>
>I've been considering which mid-range 4-stroke dual-sporter to buy, and
>while I'm saving up the green-backs, I'm doing some further research.
>
>I'm lucky enough to be in a country where road-worthiness is pretty
>easy to achieve, and my primary consideration is therefore: what can I
>get for my money.
>
>Pricewise, here are my choices: (most expensive first, least expensive
>last)
>
>1) Yamaha WR400
>2) Honda XR400
>3) Kawasaki KLX300
>4) Suzuki DR350
>
>Other bikes are available, like KTM, Cagiva, and so on, but I'm not
>listing them as they are extremely expensive here. Also, spares and
>support are difficult to acquire, especially in country areas.
>
>So here is my summary:
>
>1) Yam WR400: my first choice, but I would need an Acerbis or Baja
>Design roadlegal kit to comply with traffic laws, and this will push up
>the price with around $500. Seat height is a bit too high, and I'm a bit
>scared about all the electronic things that can go wrong there. Very
>expensive (around $7500 here, without any extras)
>2) Honda XR400: Second choice. Almost as expensive here as the WR!!!
>Some local dealers offer a roadlegal kit as part of the price, though.
>Bike is a bit too heavy, and technology is a dated. Very high seat
>height. (around $7000)
>3) Kawa KLX: This is almost the ideal choice, except that the 300cc
>engine and CV carb makes me think that it's going to be a bit of a sheep
>in wolf's clothing. I understand that the suspension is only good for
>lighter riders, or for very tame trailing otherwise. I would have to
>upgrade this, as well as install the 330cc barrel/piston set, and a
>pumper carb. Mucho dinero. Also, the roadlegal kit would have to be an
>added purchase. Nice bike, but would cost too much to upgrade. (around
>$6000, but the suspension and engine mods could easily add another
>$1500).
>4) Suz-box DR: Very pretty bike, with excellent welding and cosmetics.
>The SE version is available here, so I get an electric start too. From
>you-all on this list, I have determined that the suspension and engine
>need some work, but the basic bike seems a better deal, and it's also
>the cheapest mid-size DS bike available here. (around $5300, plus pumper
>carb ($370), Stroker exhaust ($380) & big bore kits ($400?), and
>suspension upgrades ($400): around R7000)
>
>So the crunch question is: do I upgrade the DR, or do I bite the bullet
>and buy the XR, and try and get the seat-height down? (This issue is
>critical, because my better half says I can buy a bike if she can ride
>it too, and she has a problem with anything around the height of the
>XR).
>
>Here are a list of bikes I've owned, so please be sure I'm not a
>beginner:
>1981 Yam XT550
>1980 Suzuki PE250
>1982 Yam IT175
>1982 Yam IT465
>1982 Kawa KDX200
>1984 Yam TT600
>1984 Honda CR250
>1982 KTM 250
>1984 Yam IT490
>
>I can also import a Yamaha TTR250 or Honda XLR250 for around $3200, but
>I don't know these bikes at all, and it would be a "grey" import,
>without proper local dealer support.
>
>Let's hear what everybody thinks! I'll appreciate the feedback.
>
>Cheers
>
>
>Jakes Louw
>
>HP-UX Systems Administrator
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) need adivse
Date: 06 Sep 1999 16:29:34 -0400


I WAS AWAY ON A 1000 MILE TRIP AND WHEN OFF ROADING I BROKE A FORK SPRING=
.
I AM NOW LOOKING ADVISE ON
WHAT RATING OF FORK SPRINGS I SHOULD USE AS I WOULD LIKE TO UP RATE THEM =
AS
I AM RUNNING WITH AN
OHILNS REAR SHOCKER, AND WANT TO IMPROVE THE FORKS.

                                                                         =
  =

     MANY THANKS

                                                                         =
  =

          STEVIE (scotland)


 =


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 18:23:19 -0600


-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>** High Priority **
>
>Kurt
>
>Thanks. Like Scott, your reply is certainly useful.
>
>It would appear 2 bikes is the only option......
>
>The XT225 (they call it the Tecate?) is certainly far too sedate. Tell
>me more about the Super Sherpa?


Jakes, I think the 2 bike option is the way to go..you don't want your
partner to have a bad experience early in her career. The Serow (XT225)
would be an excellent choice or the Super Sherpa (same class). That
leaves it open for you to buy the bike of your choice. There are rumors
that a new DR400 is about to break loose and it looks really
interesting...

KUrt


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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) What Is dual Sport?
Date: 06 Sep 1999 18:52:48 -0600

Nice write up about dual sports, Robert.

It seems that controversies arise when one claims or complains that a
certain bike does or doesn't cross one of the three categories (Adventure,
Explorer, street legal trail).

Fact is, dual sports are as specialized as any class of motorcycles.
Picking the ideal bike also means knowing what kind of riding you are going
to do/where you are going to ride.  No one dual sport does everything.

Except for the KTM Adventure, which you forgot to mention.  TW





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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 06 Sep 1999 19:04:04 -0600

Jakes:  you must decide which bike you like.

I will say that the DRS(E) is a very reliable bike with reasonable
performance in stock trim.  There is extensive aftermarket stuff available
that allow you to upgrade the bike into any form you like, which will give
you performance that will rival any similar bike currently made.  (For
instance, on the gravel roads I like to blast around on, my friend on his
XR650L has to work at keeping up with me.  On trails, I can go just about
anywhere others with similar riding skill can, and just as fast.)

Upgrading a new bike may not make as much sense as a used one.

Tom Warr, in Montana

PS  Check out details of my upgraded DRS, at
http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/DR350S.html


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Suzuki DR400 set for Paris Show
Date: 07 Sep 1999 00:29:29 EDT

SUZUKI WILL unveil a DR400 enduro bike at the Paris Show in October to=20
replace its aging, but popular and effective, DR350 which has been with us=20
since 1991.=20

The new bike will be liquid cooled instead of air cooled as well as having=20
the extra 50cc on tap. That should boost power from 30bhp to around 36bhp as=20
well as giving more torque.=20

The single-cylinder four-stroke machine should still cost about the same as=20
the =A33999 DR350 model. Weight should stay close to its current 118kg=20
(259.6lb).

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From: "molly thomas" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) EXHAUST FOR SALE
Date: 06 Sep 1999 19:56:39 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF8A1.EEE28BC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

COBRA 4 STROKE EXHAUST FOR SALE USED 3 TIMES MAKE OFFER IF INTERESTED  =
JT 96 DR350

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF8A1.EEE28BC0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>COBRA 4 STROKE EXHAUST FOR SALE USED =
3 TIMES=20
MAKE OFFER IF INTERESTED  JT 96 DR350</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF8A1.EEE28BC0--


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Switch of DR350(European model?)
Date: 07 Sep 1999 02:34:25 +0200

Does the Suzuki DR350SE (USA model) this switch:
http://www.ccwn.org/Ludwig.Geromiller/bilder/mot/DR_Verg_Schalter.jpg ... or
alone the European DR350SE brings it?
In affirmative case... is it connected?

Thank you
_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Switch of DR350(European model?)
Date: 06 Sep 1999 22:22:39 +0200

Does the Suzuki DR350SE (USA model) this switch:
http://www.ccwn.org/Ludwig.Geromiller/bilder/mot/DR_Verg_Schalter.jpg ... or
alone the European DR350SE brings it?
In affirmative case... is it connected?

Thank you
_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) need adivse
Date: 07 Sep 1999 06:15:35 -0700

HI Steven, What year and model DR do you have? not being personal, but what do you
weigh,?
Jesse

Steven McGarry wrote:

> I WAS AWAY ON A 1000 MILE TRIP AND WHEN OFF ROADING I BROKE A FORK SPRING.
> I AM NOW LOOKING ADVISE ON
> WHAT RATING OF FORK SPRINGS I SHOULD USE AS I WOULD LIKE TO UP RATE THEM AS
> I AM RUNNING WITH AN
> OHILNS REAR SHOCKER, AND WANT TO IMPROVE THE FORKS.
>
>
>      MANY THANKS
>
>
>           STEVIE (scotland)
>
>
>
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From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Switch of DR350(European model?)
Date: 07 Sep 1999 08:46:18 -0700

I have never seen a US model with the throttle position switch, does it
retard the ignition when you are at full throttle?  If it does, disconnect
the switch and connect it to a NOS fogger system.  When you hit full
throttle the bike will pull like a two-stroker way up in its power band.
Have Fun.

Jeff in San Diego
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, September 06, 1999 1:22 PM


> Does the Suzuki DR350SE (USA model) this switch:
> http://www.ccwn.org/Ludwig.Geromiller/bilder/mot/DR_Verg_Schalter.jpg ...
or
> alone the European DR350SE brings it?
> In affirmative case... is it connected?
>
> Thank you
> _______________________________________________
>
>                            SUZUKI DR350SE
>                      "Ride the winds of change"
>
> The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
>
>
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> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
subject blank
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 07 Sep 1999 09:33:35 -0700

I had the opportunity to ride the Yamaha TTR 250 this weekend and loved
every minute of it!!  It has electric start to boot, something I must have
on a bike when it comes time to replace my trusty 94 DR SE model.  The TTR
handled very well, was not as big and heavy feeling as the DR.  The TTR can
be made street legal here in Washington state (USA) without a Baja Designs
kit, this may or may not be possible in other states, provinces or
countries as laws vary.

What it all comes down to is the right bike for the type of riding you do.
 I have progressed to more off road and trail type riding an now would like
a bike with better suspension and something a little lighter in weight for
handling the trails where I ride.  Sometimes the DR is a bit heavy to
handle in the rough stuff.

The TTR 250 seemed very comparable to my mostly stock DR as far as power.

Doug

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, September 06, 1999 1:37 AM

** High Priority **

Hi all

I'm just out of lurk mode for some quick observations, and a request
for assistance:

I've been considering which mid-range 4-stroke dual-sporter to buy, and
while I'm saving up the green-backs, I'm doing some further research.

I'm lucky enough to be in a country where road-worthiness is pretty
easy to achieve, and my primary consideration is therefore: what can I
get for my money.

Pricewise, here are my choices: (most expensive first, least expensive
last)

1) Yamaha WR400
2) Honda XR400
3) Kawasaki KLX300
4) Suzuki DR350

Other bikes are available, like KTM, Cagiva, and so on, but I'm not
listing them as they are extremely expensive here. Also, spares and
support are difficult to acquire, especially in country areas.

So here is my summary:

1) Yam WR400: my first choice, but I would need an Acerbis or Baja
Design roadlegal kit to comply with traffic laws, and this will push up
the price with around $500. Seat height is a bit too high, and I'm a bit
scared about all the electronic things that can go wrong there. Very
expensive (around $7500 here, without any extras)
2) Honda XR400: Second choice. Almost as expensive here as the WR!!!
Some local dealers offer a roadlegal kit as part of the price, though.
Bike is a bit too heavy, and technology is a dated. Very high seat
height. (around $7000)
3) Kawa KLX: This is almost the ideal choice, except that the 300cc
engine and CV carb makes me think that it's going to be a bit of a sheep
in wolf's clothing. I understand that the suspension is only good for
lighter riders, or for very tame trailing otherwise. I would have to
upgrade this, as well as install the 330cc barrel/piston set, and a
pumper carb. Mucho dinero. Also, the roadlegal kit would have to be an
added purchase. Nice bike, but would cost too much to upgrade. (around
$6000, but the suspension and engine mods could easily add another
$1500).
4) Suz-box DR: Very pretty bike, with excellent welding and cosmetics.
The SE version is available here, so I get an electric start too. From
you-all on this list, I have determined that the suspension and engine
need some work, but the basic bike seems a better deal, and it's also
the cheapest mid-size DS bike available here. (around $5300, plus pumper
carb ($370), Stroker exhaust ($380) & big bore kits ($400?), and
suspension upgrades ($400): around R7000)

So the crunch question is: do I upgrade the DR, or do I bite the bullet
and buy the XR, and try and get the seat-height down? (This issue is
critical, because my better half says I can buy a bike if she can ride
it too, and she has a problem with anything around the height of the
XR).

Here are a list of bikes I've owned, so please be sure I'm not a
beginner:
1981 Yam XT550
1980 Suzuki PE250
1982 Yam IT175
1982 Yam IT465
1982 Kawa KDX200
1984 Yam TT600
1984 Honda CR250
1982 KTM 250
1984 Yam IT490

I can also import a Yamaha TTR250 or Honda XLR250 for around $3200, but
I don't know these bikes at all, and it would be a "grey" import,
without proper local dealer support.

Let's hear what everybody thinks! I'll appreciate the feedback.

Cheers


Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) ADVICE : Jetting, routing of fuel lines with Acerbis tank
Date: 07 Sep 1999 17:53:06 +0100

Hi guys,

Sorry but... it's about jetting again...

I had a 42.5 pilot jet (stock) and 135 main jet (stock) and the needle
on the 3rd clip. This was with the standard airbox & exhaust. (I
bought the bike second hand so the previous owner might have played
with the jetting too... by the way it's a DR350 S 1993 / 33mm CV
Mikuni carb).

Then I opened the airbox, removed the backfire screen and put a Twin
Air foam filter and a straight through exhaust. I went to a 140 main
jet and kept the 42.5 pilot jet. The needle was set on the 4th clip.
Big improvement in top and mid end but not so much on low revs. I
checked the plug and it was light brown. I had some "blurbing" noise
on the exhaust and some backfire when I closed the throttle after
using full throttle for a while.

So today I went for a 145 main jet, a 45 pilot jet, needle on the 4th
clip, 2 turns out on the idle screw. THE BIKE'S A BEAST NOW !!! The
first time I opened the throttle in first gear I had to hit the rear
brake or I would flip ! Lots of more lower rev power, slightly
improved mid power and about the same top end. I am able to wheelie in
3rd gear without the clutch ! The popping/blurbing noise from the
exhaust disappeared and the backfire when I closed the throttle also
disappeared.

One thing I noticed was the exhaust, some black smoke was coming out
when the bike's in idle. I had to set the idle higher to keep it
working so it's probably a bit rich. I will check the plug then I will
let you know.

MY QUESTION IS : IS A RICH CONDITION BAD FOR MY ENGINE ? Because the
bike never had so much power like now so I would like to keep like
this, what do you guys think ?

I will check the spark plug and put the rev counter to see what the
engine's doing then I will report back to you guys.

About the Acerbis tank, the fuel line routing was a pain... I replaced
the fuel lines with transparent one's and put a WB fuel filter. I just
can't manage to get the air out of the fuel lines and very little fuel
is coming out of the fuel filter to the carb.

PLEASE ADVISE ME THE BEST ROUTING FOR THE FUEL LINES, anyone has got
pictures of their routing that could send me ?

Thanks a lot !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 07 Sep 1999 14:34:26 -0400


sorry i did not reliseyour weight etc mattered.
my dr is a 1994 road model, i do a lot of road miles as well as off =

road,when off road it can be any thing from just grass to quite
slatey and rocky mountain stuff.      my weight is around 170lb.

                                                  thanks again
                                                         stevie (scotland=
) =


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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fuel lines - Acerbis Tank / Pilot Jet
Date: 07 Sep 1999 23:58:43 +0100

Hi guys,

I really need your help with routing the fuel lines with the Acerbis
tank.

The fuel valves are lower than the stock one so it's very hard to make
the gas go up in the fuel lines before it goes down to the carb.

The other problem is the right side fuel valve. I just don't know how
will I route the fuel line from the right side of the bike to the Y
connector near the carb. So far I have the fuel line that comes from
the right fuel valve routed over the engine so it gets very hot when
the engine's running. And as the fuel line has to go over the engine,
the fuel line is mostly full of air and very little gas is flow to the
Y connector.

The last problem is the WB fuel filter. It's full of fuel but the fuel
line from the the filter to the carb is partially filled with air too.

Please help me as I just have 3 feet of fuel line left to use and find
the proper routing...

About the jetting, it's way too rich (45 pilot jet) on the bottom end
so it's blowing black smoke at idle and sounds funny when hot at idle
(1.500 rpm / 1.5 turns out at idle mixture screw).

But the bike is pulling great, from every rpm in every gear, lots of
more power ! It just sounds a bit fuzzy when it's rode constantly at
3-4.000 rpm.

I will try to drop  to a 42.5 pilot jet, what do you guys think.

Thanks !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suzuki DR400 set for Paris Show
Date: 07 Sep 1999 20:04:16 -0700

Details, details, details...

David Heverin
(2) 1990 DR350's

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> SUZUKI WILL unveil a DR400 enduro bike at the Paris Show in October to
> replace its aging, but popular and effective, DR350 which has been with us
> since 1991.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 07 Sep 1999 18:58:37 PDT

> sorry i did not reliseyour weight etc mattered.
> my dr is a 1994 road model, i do a lot of road miles as well as off =
>
> road,when off road it can be any thing from just grass to quite
> slatey and rocky mountain stuff.      my weight is around 170lb.

  According to Race Tech, I need to put in .426 kg/mm fork springs and
a 5.960 kg/mm rear spring.  I weigh 180 lbs.

  The stock fork springs are 3.9 kg/mm (set up for a 145 lb rider) and
a 5.7 kg/mm rear spring.  If you use the stock set up, you'll be
bouncing like a pogo stick or bottoming out.

--
Scott Aldrich
'98 Suzuki DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr350) List - Unrelated
Date: 07 Sep 1999 21:01:06 -0500

My '94 DRS is running excellent (Kouba Links, 5.7 / .42 R/F springs, jets,
XJ kit, mod airbox, 15/47 gears and Regina ORS chain, new shock oil).  If I
could find the time, I even have a new set of rear turn signals to install!
 The no-maintenance bike has forced me to find more mechanically complex
machinery to fill the void and winter months.  I flew into Detroit from
MPLS to pick-up a sight-unseen streetbike - worked on it for 6 hours on
Friday then rode it home (850 miles).  No problems, but there was no
suspension. I still can't feel my thumbs.  So I ask...

Anyone have any experience or procedures to disassemble a Marzocchi
SUPERMONO rear shock?  It's off a '88 Ducati Paso 750.  It's got a Phillips
screwdriver-head on the upper aluminum casting.  The rod end has the
typical two partially drilled holes for the special wrench to unscrew the
rod seal end-cap.  In this same cap there is also a std screwdriver
recessed plug (~1/4" dia).
The shock has rebound control clicker on the lower rod end.  Which has the
Shredder valve (probably the top, but...).

This shock by the way, has a hydraulic preload adjuster that is completely
separate from the shock.  It gives you around 10mm of adjustability (in
place of fiddling with the lock rings with a punch and hammer).  The
adjuster looks like it would fit the DR (humm).

Anyway, if anyone knows some useful information on this, please let me
know.  If not, you should do a search on the Ducati to see that they use no
valve springs - they use a cam to open and to close them (neat),  but
adjuster shims cost $15 each. And belts are used to drive the cam.

P.S. When the Ducati is fully restored, it will be for sale - I had enough
of street bikes.  Trees are more predictable than cars. And the DR fits
nicley into my apartment (2nd floor).

Dan


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fuel lines - Acerbis Tank / Pilot Jet
Date: 07 Sep 1999 19:33:12 PDT

Claudio---you might have the same problem even if you go down to a #40
pilot....I ran a 40 pilot w/ 140 main jet, Vortex airbox, & Megamax exhaust,
& it was still too rich at idle EVEN W/ THE FUEL SCREW (SCOTT T-HANDLE)
TURNED ALL THE WAY IN!!  The stock pilot size on the 95 SE is 37.5, and when
you compare it to the 40, the 40 is alot bigger, and has additional holes
along the side (the 37.5 just has one hole straight thru middle like the
main jet).  I think what we may need is to take a 37.5 & micro-drill it out
just a bit bigger...has anyone done that?  Jesse suggested it, and it sounds
like good idea.  By the way, I agree with you that when I was running the 40
pilot, the bike was alot stronger, but it had a hiccup when riding at a
steady speed @ about 3K rpm, black smoke @ idle & low rpm, and I could even
smell unburned gas.  Now that I'm back with the stock pilot jet, I got the
damn popping back when decelerating!!  But it runs good.  Also....did you
try running needle in 3rd position?  Anyone else using 4th position?  I
might have to try that, but I hate the thought of taking the carb off for
the 10th time!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
>To: "Suzuki DR350S" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Fuel lines - Acerbis Tank / Pilot Jet
>Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 23:58:43 +0100
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I really need your help with routing the fuel lines with the Acerbis
>tank.
>
>The fuel valves are lower than the stock one so it's very hard to make
>the gas go up in the fuel lines before it goes down to the carb.
>
>The other problem is the right side fuel valve. I just don't know how
>will I route the fuel line from the right side of the bike to the Y
>connector near the carb. So far I have the fuel line that comes from
>the right fuel valve routed over the engine so it gets very hot when
>the engine's running. And as the fuel line has to go over the engine,
>the fuel line is mostly full of air and very little gas is flow to the
>Y connector.
>
>The last problem is the WB fuel filter. It's full of fuel but the fuel
>line from the the filter to the carb is partially filled with air too.
>
>Please help me as I just have 3 feet of fuel line left to use and find
>the proper routing...
>
>About the jetting, it's way too rich (45 pilot jet) on the bottom end
>so it's blowing black smoke at idle and sounds funny when hot at idle
>(1.500 rpm / 1.5 turns out at idle mixture screw).
>
>But the bike is pulling great, from every rpm in every gear, lots of
>more power ! It just sounds a bit fuzzy when it's rode constantly at
>3-4.000 rpm.
>
>I will try to drop  to a 42.5 pilot jet, what do you guys think.
>
>Thanks !
>
>ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
>Lisbon, Portugal
>http://drive.to/thundersub
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html
>
>[e-mail]
>ICQ# [3072424]
>
>* 1982 Honda Dax 70
>* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
>* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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>subject blank
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fuel lines - Acerbis Tank / Pilot Jet
Date: 07 Sep 1999 21:41:36 -0600

>The fuel valves are lower than the stock one so it's very hard to >make the
gas go up in the fuel lines before it goes down to the carb.

It will siphon as long as the float bowl is lower than the gas in the tank,
which it is.

I ran the right fuel line behind the cylinder, then kinda suspended it with
some wires so that it didn't lay on the hot engine (to avoid vapor lock).
That has worked well.

TW


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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) KLX vs DR
Date: 08 Sep 1999 07:41:24 +0200

** High Priority **

Doug

Thanks for the feedback! I had heard that the TTR was pretty nifty for
its size.

Since I'm a Yamaha fan, I'll put this bike on my "options list" !

Thanks again



Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Pilot Jet / Needle Jet / Spring / Twin Air vs K&N / Advantages & Disadvantages of a rich condition / Maintenance
Date: 08 Sep 1999 20:26:01 +0100

Hi guys,

I removed the #45 pilot jet and went back to the #42.5 one. The first
owner probably played with the jetting also as my bike already had a
#42.5 pilot jet. However I replaced this jet with another from Mikuni
that has some small holes on its side and although the 2 pilot jets
are the same size, the bike runs richer with the one that has the
holes. The idle screw is set to 1.25 turns out.

The bike's probably still running a bit rich as there's still some
black smoke coming off the exhaust (although a lot better than with
the #45).

The bad thing is I noticed a huge decrease in lower (< 3.000 rpm) and
mid (3.000 - 5.000 rpm) power. It still wheelies on power alone in 3rd
gear but it's very hard to do it.

The #145 Main jet is a beast. I put the rev counter back on and the
bike's still pulling very strong way over the redline (by the way does
the DR have a rev limiter ?)

I read somewhere that there are also needles with holes (called
'Needle Jets') on its side and that they improve significantly
mid-power on 4-strokes. I think I saw them on the WB catalog, anyone
knows the correct P/N of the Mikuni Needle Jet for the DR (33mm CV
Mikuni) ? And by the way, is there a better spring from Mikuni
available ?

Which one is the best air filter? Twin Air or K&N ?

Another thing I would like to know is what harm can cause a prolonged
rich condition to an engine ?

What are the advantages & disadvantages of running rich for a long
period of time / high mileage ?

How often should I change the spark plug ?

How often should I check the valve clearance ?

Thanks a lot !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Where to buy springs?
Date: 08 Sep 1999 15:24:43 PDT


Who would you recommend to buy fork springs and fluid from?

  Race-Tech's web site was very nice as they had a chart that showed
recommended springs (.426 kg/mm) and fluid weight (10w), but I've
never bought springs from anyone before.  Is there a difference in
spring manufacturer?  And is the Race-Tech recommended spring rate the
right one for me?

Thanks in advance for any input.
--
W Scott Aldrich
'98 Suzuki DR350SE

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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Thumper Racing DR435 / TTS DR 441 Kit
Date: 09 Sep 1999 03:27:47 +0100

Hi guys,

> The new issue of Dirt Rider magazine has a really cool article on a
Thumper Racing
> DR435. Its about time it gets some good publicity.

Would anyone on the list scan the Thumper Racing 435 review and e-mail
it to me ?

I would really appreciate it !

For the British guys : Has anyone tried the TTS DR 441 Kit for the DR.

TTS performance has a webpage at http://www.tts-performance.co.uk

Bye !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1





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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Vacuum line of the carb / Crank case vent line
Date: 09 Sep 1999 04:25:28 +0100

Hi guys,

I have read several times in this list about a vacuum line coming off
the carb.

I think my carb doesn't have this vacuum line. Where should it be ? On
the top front right side of the carb ?

So far, I have the vent line on the right side (exhaust side) of the
carb (which I have already T-vented), the fuel line and a smaller line
coming off the bottom of the carb but it isn't connected to anything.
That third line is just hanging there, pointed down to the back of the
engine, near the swingarm pivot. I am starting to think that it
probably got loose and perhaps it should be connected to something,
please help me on this subject.

What's the deal about the crank case vent line connected to the airbox
manifold ? I read on MXA magazine that on the KLX300R replacing the
stock crank case line with a larger one would increase 2 HP ! Then I
read Pablo's message about the CRD kit where their instructions tell
us to remove that vent line and seal the holes with silicone...

I thought this line was meant to throw excessive oil from the crank
case into the airbox...

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vacuum line of the carb / Crank case vent line
Date: 09 Sep 1999 08:57:20 -0700

Only the SE models have a vacuum line that controls the automatic fuel tap.

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 8:25 PM


> Hi guys,
>
> I have read several times in this list about a vacuum line coming off
> the carb.
>
> I think my carb doesn't have this vacuum line. Where should it be ? On
> the top front right side of the carb ?



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GA Dual Sport
Date: 09 Sep 1999 12:17:50 -0400

IMPORTANT REMINDER!

If you're interested in riding the Amsterdam GA Dual sport ride, visit the
website http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 for an entry form.

The ride is in southern GA, just outside of Bainbridge GA. This ride
benefits the "Project learning Tree" foundation which presents forestry
management practices to schools through out GA and FL.

The deadline for entry is september 10, but call David Norman for more info.
His number is listed on the event flyer.

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet"


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Experience w/ Michelin MX tires?
Date: 09 Sep 1999 10:21:40 PDT

Any of you guys use the Michelin M12 (or was it M21?) tires?  I was just a
Sam's (wholesale club like Costco) and noticed they were selling these from
$30-54 frnt/rear.

What I really want to know is....how to real MX knobbies work on the street?
  I'm not due for an inspection till 2/00, and I've  never had a cop look at
my tires when being pulled over.  I *guess* the rear wouldnt feel much diff
on street than the Pirelli M-21 I'm running now.  I've been using IRC GP-110
on front, and its great on street, but I wonder how much I'm giving up in
the dirt?  Comments/ideas?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FS: rack, clutch cable, and service manual
Date: 09 Sep 1999 14:07:13 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BEFACC.9D5AD280
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have the Suzuki deluxe rack for DR350S in white, I bought it three =
months ago and looks new. $40. OE Suzuki DR350SE clutch cable used for =
2000 miles $5.  Suzuki service manual, covers all years DR350, S, and SE =
$40

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
[e-mail]

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BEFACC.9D5AD280
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have the Suzuki deluxe rack for =
DR350S in white,=20
I bought it three months ago and looks new. $40. OE Suzuki DR350SE =
clutch cable=20
used for 2000 miles $5.  Suzuki service manual, covers all years =
DR350, S,=20
and SE $40</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jeff Corsaro in San Diego</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A></FONT></DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BEFACC.9D5AD280--


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 09 Sep 1999 17:41:38 -0700

Suzuki DR350 suspension (stock) designed for a 145lb rider?  Are you
sure that is correct?  How many list members weigh in at 145lbs, or even
close?  That is a very small adult man here in the USA.

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's


Scott Aldrich wrote:
>
> > sorry i did not reliseyour weight etc mattered.
> > my dr is a 1994 road model, i do a lot of road miles as well as off =
> >
> > road,when off road it can be any thing from just grass to quite
> > slatey and rocky mountain stuff.      my weight is around 170lb.
>
>   According to Race Tech, I need to put in .426 kg/mm fork springs and
> a 5.960 kg/mm rear spring.  I weigh 180 lbs.
>
>   The stock fork springs are 3.9 kg/mm (set up for a 145 lb rider) and
> a 5.7 kg/mm rear spring.  If you use the stock set up, you'll be
> bouncing like a pogo stick or bottoming out.
>
> --
> Scott Aldrich
> '98 Suzuki DR350SE
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 09 Sep 1999 16:25:27 PDT

> Suzuki DR350 suspension (stock) designed for a 145lb rider?  Are you
> sure that is correct?

  I know that sounds absurd, but I'm basing it on Race-Techs Fork
spring chart at:

http://www.race-tech.com/reference/springchartdirt.htm

  According to their data, the '98 DR350SE springs are measured at .39
kg/mm and the shock spring is rated at 5.7 kg/mm.  They rate the ideal
rider weight to be a 145 lb rider.

>                        How many list members weigh in at 145lbs, or even
> close?  That is a very small adult man here in the USA.

  I agree.  I weigh about 190 lbs. w/gear.  My fork springs are on
order (Thanks Jessie) and after I'm done setting up my forks, I'll get
the rear spring and kouba link.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Experience w/ Michelin MX tires?
Date: 09 Sep 1999 20:15:21 EDT

Bryan;

I've not personally had any experience with the Michelin M12's, but I've read
enough posts on the dirt bike newsgroup to tell you that the tire wears
pretty quickly; and that's from guys who ride strictly in the dirt. IMHO, if
you're gonna put full knobbies on a bike that'll see some road use, I would
get a soft terrain type of tire. Why? Because the rubber compound on these
tires tends to be harder than either tires designed for intermediate or hard
terrain (we're talkin' dirt here). Hard terrain knobbies are made of a soft
compound rubber (the better to grip the hard clay surfaces); these tires will
disolve if used on the street.

The Dunlop 752 or the Pirelli Laguna Cross are two tires I would say could
stand up to the abuse of the occasional short blast down the highway, the
Pirelli more so than the Dunlop. If you put full knobbies on your dual
purpose bike beware, don't play road racer with it; street handling will
definitly be funky and riding in the rain with them is suicidal.

so much for my 2 cents worth......hope it helps

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) MT-21 price
Date: 09 Sep 1999 20:48:55 -0400 (EDT)

Looking for a good price to order an MT21 tire.Any suggestions?


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: dave <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no subject)
Date: 09 Sep 1999 23:32:14 -0500

unsubscribe


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Experience w/ Michelin MX tires?
Date: 10 Sep 1999 05:39:08 PDT

Thanks Mike-  was not aware that the hard/soft ratings on MX tires was like
you said....I thought HARD meant hard rubber.  Makes sense though.
Bryan in Dallas
DR350SE


>From: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail]
>CC: [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Experience w/ Michelin MX tires?
>Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:15:21 EDT
>
>Bryan;
>
>I've not personally had any experience with the Michelin M12's, but I've
>read
>enough posts on the dirt bike newsgroup to tell you that the tire wears
>pretty quickly; and that's from guys who ride strictly in the dirt. IMHO,
>if
>you're gonna put full knobbies on a bike that'll see some road use, I would
>get a soft terrain type of tire. Why? Because the rubber compound on these
>tires tends to be harder than either tires designed for intermediate or
>hard
>terrain (we're talkin' dirt here). Hard terrain knobbies are made of a soft
>compound rubber (the better to grip the hard clay surfaces); these tires
>will
>disolve if used on the street.
>
>The Dunlop 752 or the Pirelli Laguna Cross are two tires I would say could
>stand up to the abuse of the occasional short blast down the highway, the
>Pirelli more so than the Dunlop. If you put full knobbies on your dual
>purpose bike beware, don't play road racer with it; street handling will
>definitly be funky and riding in the rain with them is suicidal.
>
>so much for my 2 cents worth......hope it helps
>
>Mike
>' 93 DR350

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) MT-21 price
Date: 10 Sep 1999 05:40:48 PDT

I think I found the best price around from  Baja Designs @ around $80 for a
rear....if you search the archives, I know I posted about it w/ specific
price/supplier
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: [e-mail] (John)
>Reply-To: [e-mail] (John)
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) MT-21 price
>Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:48:55 -0400 (EDT)
>
>Looking for a good price to order an MT21 tire.Any suggestions?
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (no subject)
Date: 10 Sep 1999 07:20:53 -0600

approve 2347 unsubscribe dr350 [e-mail]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Aerostich and Widder
Date: 10 Sep 1999 09:46:57 EDT

Has anyone found a way to mount the thermostat for the Widder electric
equipment on a Roadcrafter so that it is right in front of the "private
area"?  Every time I use the control on the thermostat, cagers probably think
that I am playing with myself.  Also, what do you folks use for the sleeves
and arms without having too much bulk?

Thanks
John

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Leather jacket for sale
Date: 10 Sep 1999 10:24:05 EDT

For Sale: Hein Gericke, First Gear Scout leather jacket with removable liner
that buttons in/out, antique brown, size 44, men's/women's, just cleaned, has
vents front and back and arms, many pockets.  Paid $525.00 will sell for
$300.00.

John

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From:    "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) MT-21 price
Date: 10 Sep 1999 09:27:44 -0700

Try :

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html

Fred rides and runs a small mail order operation from Moab, UT.  The service
is great and well worth a look.

Cheers,

Vik



-----Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>I think I found the best price around from  Baja Designs @ around $80 for a
>rear....if you search the archives, I know I posted about it w/ specific
>price/supplier
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>
>
>>From: [e-mail] (John)
>>Reply-To: [e-mail] (John)
>>To: [e-mail]
>>Subject: (dr350) MT-21 price
>>Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:48:55 -0400 (EDT)
>>
>>Looking for a good price to order an MT21 tire.Any suggestions?
>>
>>
>>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>>subject blank
>>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
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>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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subject blank
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mario Wolf <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) sorry guys....
Date: 10 Sep 1999 22:36:18 +0200

would you please let me outa here?

I=b4ve unsubscribed this newsletter three or more times
but every day I receive a lot of mails I do not want!!!

=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d>I want out!<=3d=3d=3d=3d=
=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d=3d
                                        ---------------

thanx in advance
best regards

Mario

[e-mail]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Exhaust testing
Date: 10 Sep 1999 17:09:35 -0400 (EDT)

I'm planning my first dual-sport event.
The flyer says thay will test your exhaust if it sounds loud.
My bike is running a big gun exhaust system, so it's seen quiter days.
Has anyone out there have any run in with this potential problem.

Kevin 98


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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) sorry guys....
Date: 10 Sep 1999 15:12:08 -0600

Isn't this list a one-year subscription? ....=)  I thought you had to
complete the entire subscription before you could get off the list???....;-)

Cheers,

Vik

PS - If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
send the following command in email to
<[e-mail]>:

    unsubscribe



-----Original Message-----


would you please let me outa here?

I┤ve unsubscribed this newsletter three or more times
but every day I receive a lot of mails I do not want!!!

================>I want out!<===================
                                        ---------------

thanx in advance
best regards

Mario

[e-mail]



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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) VA riders
Date: 10 Sep 1999 17:50:44 -0500

Here in Panama City, Florida there are literally hundreds of miles of
logging roads, fire roads, jeep trails and hunting roads to ride.
However, it's not the greatest riding because it's so hot and dusty.  The
scenery is always the same with scrawny pine trees and palmettos.  The
trails are difficult because you never know when you will hit a patch of
deep sand.  But, it's been a good experience and I've had fun.

I am looking forward to riding in Virginia - especially in the mountains.
 Thanks to the person who left the message on where to get off road
trails in the George Washington and Jefferson National forests.  When I
get to Richmond in October, I will be ready to try them out.

Oh, another criticism of the DR:  If you are as big as me (6'5" 230lbs)
the bike is too low to the ground and it's too short.  I find it
necessary to sit way back on the seat or else most of my weight is toward
the front tire making it difficult to ride through mud and sand.

Chuck Vokac
[e-mail]
Panama City Beach, FL
'92 DR350S

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 10 Sep 1999 18:58:38 EDT

I have the Pro Tapers on my DR. I think they are worth every penny.

Mike A.
Nashville

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Ohlins Suspensions
Date: 11 Sep 1999 00:01:46 EDT

Does anyone know if Olins make forks and shocks for th DR. If so are they
fully adjustable? Also what are the costs and benifits. Any help would be
appreciated.
 Mike A.
Nashville
94 DR dirt only

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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale
Date: 10 Sep 1999 21:09:29 -0700



-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, September 10, 1999 12:08 AM


For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals)  and much much more
                Great Looking Great Runniing! In Reno Nevada.  $2800.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]
[Strickler]

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Ohlins Suspensions
Date: 10 Sep 1999 22:08:27 -0700

Hi Mike, I have an ohlins shock on my 90 DR and it is fully adjustable comp and rebound
very tuneable and expensive $865.00  my last big blow before I retired. the cost is a
little more due to PPS adjusting it for 1 inch more travel to match my 45mm marzocci
forks. I would almost bet that they make forks for the DR also. check with PPS in
southern CA they are ohlins distributors.1-714-630-4777
Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Does anyone know if Olins make forks and shocks for th DR. If so are they
> fully adjustable? Also what are the costs and benifits. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>  Mike A.
> Nashville
> 94 DR dirt only
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) ohilns
Date: 11 Sep 1999 10:39:31 -0400

i am running ohlins fully ajustable rear shock,and it is pretty easy to s=
et
up as i was away on a 1000mile trip with my darr (aluminium) panniers etc=
,
ihad it set for the weight and road ,then when their gear dumped a couple=

of turns of the knobs and minutes later i was in the mountains. go for it=

not the cheapest but really good.
                            =

                                            stevie(scotland)

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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GEORGIA DUAL SPORT RIDE!
Date: 11 Sep 1999 14:08:45 -0400

The Tallahassee Trail Riders Are Still Accepting Entries For The AMSTERDAM
DSR, In Amsterdam. georgia (Just Outside Of Bainbridge GA, And Just north Of
Tallahassee, FL) to be held Saturday and Sunday, September 18/19.

Proceeds Benefit Project Learning Tree, a mobile interactive display
teaching students and educators about forest management.

Contact David Norman at 850/539-5334 After 6pm

Or Get An Entry Form From The Dual Sport Website:
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 11 Sep 1999 15:35:17 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BEFC6B.3FC18560
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to this list and I already am in need of suggestions.  I =
had my '94 DR350S out last weekend for a desert ride.  Everything was =
running great.  I come to this intersection in the trail and I stop =
suddenly because I wasn't sure which way I wanted go.  Anyway, I lose my =
balance right when I come to a complete stop and the bike teeters over =
onto the right hand side.  I tried with all my strength to hold it up =
but I was too off balance couldn't do it.  It was just one of those slow =
gradual falls.

This leads me to my problem now.  Ever since this happened I experience =
an engine hesitation at around 3500-4000 rpms when I get on the =
throttle.  I don't have to open the throttle all the way for it happen.  =
Even just like 1/3 of a turn is enough.  It just hesitates for only a =
fraction of a second and then it catches and everything is fine.  So I =
figure I better check this out and off comes the carb.  I was thinking =
maybe i had some debris inside the carb or something.  I take it all =
apart and don't really see anything wrong.  Since I had the carb off I =
lowered the clip on the needle to raise it up a notch and richen the =
mixture a bit. =20

I put everything back together and started the bike up.  I took it out =
on the road and started goosing it at 4000 rpms to see if the hesitation =
is still there.  It wasn't and it was running great.  So I figure I'm =
golden now.  However, after a few minutes of riding time when all the =
engine and carb components are up to normal operating temperature the =
hesitation returned!  I was bummed. =20

Pilot jet =3D 40
Main Jet =3D 140
needle =3D 4th notch down (the Thumper Racing needle)
altitude =3D 2500 feet or so
air temp =3D usually between 85 to 100 degrees

I just put a brand new spark plug in it.  But I have no idea what is =
going on.  The bike still runs fine and I'm going riding again tomorrow, =
but I'm sort of a nut with this bike and I want it to operate perfectly.

Instead of the carb, could be it be an ignition problem?

Can someone please rescue me before I pull all my hair out?  I want this =
thing dialed in just right.  Thank you all for any suggestions, =
recommendations, advice, etc. =20

Rob.


------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BEFC6B.3FC18560
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I'm fairly new to this =
list and I=20
already am in need of suggestions.  I had my '94 DR350S out last =
weekend=20
for a desert ride.  Everything was running great.  I come to =
this=20
intersection in the trail and I stop suddenly because I wasn't sure =
which way I=20
wanted go.  Anyway, I lose my balance right when I come to a =
complete stop=20
and the bike teeters over onto the right hand side.  I tried with =
all my=20
strength to hold it up but I was too off balance couldn't do it.  =
It was=20
just one of those slow gradual falls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>This leads me to my =
problem now. =20
Ever since this happened I experience an engine hesitation at around =
3500-4000=20
rpms when I get on the throttle.  I don't have to open the throttle =
all the=20
way for it happen.  Even just like 1/3 of a turn is enough.  =
It just=20
hesitates for only a fraction of a second and then it catches and =
everything is=20
fine.  So I figure I better check this out and off comes the =
carb.  I=20
was thinking maybe i had some debris inside the carb or something.  =
I take=20
it all apart and don't really see anything wrong.  Since I had the =
carb off=20
I lowered the clip on the needle to raise it up a notch and richen the =
mixture a=20
bit.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I put everything back =
together and=20
started the bike up.  I took it out on the road and started goosing =
it at=20
4000 rpms to see if the hesitation is still there.  It wasn't and =
it was=20
running great.  So I figure I'm golden now.  However, after a =
few=20
minutes of riding time when all the engine and carb components are up to =
normal=20
operating temperature the hesitation returned!  I was bummed.  =

</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Pilot jet =3D =
40</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Main Jet =3D =
140</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>needle =3D 4th notch down =
(the Thumper=20
Racing needle)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT>altitude =3D 2500 =
feet or so</DIV>
<DIV>air temp =3D usually between 85 to 100 degrees</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>I just put a brand new =
spark plug in=20
it.  But I have no idea what is going on.  The bike still runs =
fine=20
and I'm going riding again tomorrow, but I'm sort of a nut with this =
bike and I=20
want it to operate perfectly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Instead of the carb, could be it be an =
ignition=20
problem?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Can someone please rescue =
me before I=20
pull all my hair out?  I want this thing dialed in just =
right.  Thank=20
you all for any suggestions, recommendations, advice, etc.  =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Rob.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" =
size=3D3></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BEFC6B.3FC18560--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 11 Sep 1999 19:19:18 -0400 (EDT)

Rob
You need not be a nut to want your bike to run perfectly.I would accept
nothing less.How did your bike run with the 40 pilot?Word on this site
is that is way to big for a stock bore bike.It's even big for a 435 from
what I 've been told.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 11 Sep 1999 21:48:47 -0600

I know everyone on this list knows this, but recently, as we were singing
the praises of various dual sports, no one mentioned three unique features
of the DRS:

1.  Nearly vibration free engine.  Of my three bikes (R1100, KTM), my Suzuki
has the least vibration.  The counterbalanced engine is nearly electric
motor smooth, from idle to red line.

2.  Six speed transmission.  Some things you can upgrade on a bike, the
transmission you are stuck with.  Six speeds allows one to keep the bike in
a narrow rpm range at just about all speeds.  Shifting is smooth as silk,
too.

3.  Tachometer.  The XR's don't have one.  This is a very nice feature for
the DRS owner that wants to hop up the engine.

All three features make the bike particularly suited to engine upgrades.
With my 400cc, 3/4 race cam, etc., the bike comes on the pipe at about 6000
rpm, and just loves to rev, right up to red line.  I can zip around on fast
gravel roads, running up and down the gears, always right in the bikes
powerband, with little or no vibration.  When racing my friend on his XR650,
I generally beat him out of corners because of the burst of power available
to me.

These three features are hard to find on any other dual sport that I know
of.

Tom Warr   Bikermaniac
Great Falls, Montana
[e-mail]


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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vacuum line of the carb
Date: 11 Sep 1999 23:01:17 -0600

>Only the SE models have a vacuum line that controls the automatic fuel tap.


Well, my 1990 DRS 350 had (till I changed to the Acerbis tank) a vacuum
line, too.  It ran from towards the front of the carb back to the pet cock,
on the left side.  Intake vacuum allowed fuel to flow from the pet cock when
in the "open"
position (fuel flowed freely with a dead engine in the "prime" position).

TW



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 11 Sep 1999 22:22:18 -0700

Rob , Hi Jesse here. How long have you had this jetting  except for the
needle in the fourth groove? also do you have any other mods,
pipe,airbox mod etc.? stock tank?
Is the #40 pilot a BS3096 { only 1 hole straight through the side} or 2
holes if it has 2 holes it is for a flatslide and not for the CV carb.
Lets walk through this.

Jesse

Rob Korb wrote:

>  Hi all, I'm fairly new to this list and I already am in need of
> suggestions.  I had my '94 DR350S out last weekend for a desert ride.
> Everything was running great.  I come to this intersection in the
> trail and I stop suddenly because I wasn't sure which way I wanted
> go.  Anyway, I lose my balance right when I come to a complete stop
> and the bike teeters over onto the right hand side.  I tried with all
> my strength to hold it up but I was too off balance couldn't do it.
> It was just one of those slow gradual falls. This leads me to my
> problem now.  Ever since this happened I experience an engine
> hesitation at around 3500-4000 rpms when I get on the throttle.  I
> don't have to open the throttle all the way for it happen.  Even just
> like 1/3 of a turn is enough.  It just hesitates for only a fraction
> of a second and then it catches and everything is fine.  So I figure I
> better check this out and off comes the carb.  I was thinking maybe i
> had some debris inside the carb or something.  I take it all apart and
> don't really see anything wrong.  Since I had the carb off I lowered
> the clip on the needle to raise it up a notch and richen the mixture a
> bit. I put everything back together and started the bike up.  I took
> it out on the road and started goosing it at 4000 rpms to see if the
> hesitation is still there.  It wasn't and it was running great.  So I
> figure I'm golden now.  However, after a few minutes of riding time
> when all the engine and carb components are up to normal operating
> temperature the hesitation returned!  I was bummed. Pilot jet = 40Main
> Jet = 140needle = 4th notch down (the Thumper Racing needle)altitude =
> 2500 feet or soair temp = usually between 85 to 100 degrees I just put
> a brand new spark plug in it.  But I have no idea what is going on.
> The bike still runs fine and I'm going riding again tomorrow, but I'm
> sort of a nut with this bike and I want it to operate
> perfectly. Instead of the carb, could be it be an ignition
> problem? Can someone please rescue me before I pull all my hair out?
> I want this thing dialed in just right.  Thank you all for any
> suggestions, recommendations, advice, etc. Rob.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Bearings
Date: 13 Sep 1999 21:48:15 +0200

=A1Sorry for the translation!
My DR350SE has 18000 km (11500 milles), most for off-road (very soft), an=
d I
have found slack  the  bearings steering and front wheel bearings.
I pressed the steering, and the looseness disappeared, but the bike behav=
es
very bad (hard steering), for what I have loosened it again (and the
looseness has appeared again). As the bike it is in guarantee, in the sho=
p
Suzuki told me that they changed him the bearings steering to correct the
looseness.
Is it habitual to have to change with 18000 km (11500 milles) the bearing=
s
steering and of the front wheel bearings?
Bye




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Bearings
Date: 13 Sep 1999 14:53:20 -0700

Hi Pablo, I have found that the bearings in the headstock {between the triple clamps}
have very little grease from the factory it would be a wise move to check these
bearings after purchasing a DR350 or DR350/S whether new or used. I would recommend
boat trailer wheelbearing grease as it is designed to be exposed to water. as for the
front wheel bearings, 11,500 miles is a long ways and these bearings are relatively
small. If you are careful you can remove these bearings carefully remove the seal and
repack them at regular intervals. I hope this helps.
regards Jesse

Pablo wrote:

> íSorry for the translation!
> My DR350SE has 18000 km (11500 milles), most for off-road (very soft), and I
> have found slack  the  bearings steering and front wheel bearings.
> I pressed the steering, and the looseness disappeared, but the bike behaves
> very bad (hard steering), for what I have loosened it again (and the
> looseness has appeared again). As the bike it is in guarantee, in the shop
> Suzuki told me that they changed him the bearings steering to correct the
> looseness.
> Is it habitual to have to change with 18000 km (11500 milles) the bearings
> steering and of the front wheel bearings?
> Bye
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:13:39 -0700

Scott,

I'm doing just the opposite.  I have the Kouba Link amd a new Eibach
spring for one of my DR350's.  So far I have them installed but have not
set the shock up or ridden on it yet.

I am planning on ordering the 'cartridge emulator' kit and new fork
springs after I get the rear end straightened out.  Let me know how your
fork conversion works out for you.

Dave Heverin
(2) 1990 DR350's

Scott Aldrich wrote:
  I weigh about 190 lbs. w/gear.  My fork springs are on
> order (Thanks Jessie) and after I'm done setting up my forks, I'll get
> the rear spring and kouba link.
>
> --
> Scott Aldrich

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) VA riders
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:23:24 -0700

Chuck,

Sounds like you need an XR600 or a KLX650.  Both much larger bikes than
the DR350, probably better suited to your size.  Have you tried either
one?  I had a 83' XR500 a while back and sold it because it was to big
(I am 6', 230lbs).

Dave

charles w vokac wrote:

> Oh, another criticism of the DR:  If you are as big as me (6'5" 230lbs)
> the bike is too low to the ground and it's too short.  I find it
> necessary to sit way back on the seat or else most of my weight is toward
> the front tire making it difficult to ride through mud and sand.
>
> Chuck Vokac
> [e-mail]
> Panama City Beach, FL
> '92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Forks
Date: 14 Sep 1999 01:42:42 +0100

Hi guys,

Since I replaced the stock shock for a WP unit, the forks behaviour
seem even worse...

So I am thinking to upgrade the forks. I have already got it revalved,
new springs, new oil, etc... but it still isn't as good as for example
my buddy's XR400R stock forks.

I was thinking about one of the 3 options :

1. Buy used RM forks from a used parts dealer. Which RM model (year)
has forks that fit a 93 DR-S ?

2. Buy Race-Tech fork cartridge emulators $124.95 (WB p/n 11-509 page
220). By the WB catalog it seems there aren't Race-Tech fork gold
valves available for the '93 DRS, right ?

3. Race-Tech fork cartridge conversion kit $428.51 (WB p/n 11-506 page
219). Is this worth it ? Is it better to buy this kit or to buy a used
set of RM forks (more risky in my opinion...).

If money wasn't an issue (but it is...), which one is probably give me
that state-of-the-art fork feeling ?

Please e-mail me your opinions and comments.

Thanks in advance.

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 14 Sep 1999 01:31:06 +0100

Hi,

I am using a #42.5 pilot jet and it has 4 holes on its side. The stock
pilot jet was also a #42.5 pilot but it didn't have any holes on its
side. My DR is a 1993 S model and has the Mikuni 33mm CV carb. Am I
using the wrong pilot jet version ?

Anyway, I checked the plug and it was very dark brown, near black, so
I guess I am running it too rich. Any incovenient of using a rich
jetting for a long period of time ?

> Is the #40 pilot a BS3096 { only 1 hole straight through the side}
or 2
> holes if it has 2 holes it is for a flatslide and not for the CV
carb.

PS - I have opened the airbox (no backfire screen), Twin Air Filter,
straight-through exhaust, #145 Main jet.

Thanks !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1



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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 22:46:33 -0500

I learned about the mini stalk rear turn signals from this message list
(thanks).  They held up great after my last wreck.  As I lifted the bike
off my leg I glanced back to make sure the new turn signals I installed
held up.  Sure enough, they were unscathed.

I am starting to seriously consider increasing the amount of safety gear
I use.  My crashes have been relatively minor but I don't think it's
worth taking any unnecessary risks.  A more severe one might be just
around the corner.  What are you fine folks' opinions of gear like boots,
pads, armor and the like?  I use a 3/4 face helmet instead of a
motorcross helmet and I'm beginning to wonder if this is such a good
idea.  I'm talking about trail riding by the way - nothing intense.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach
'92 DR350S

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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out. Arrrghh!
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:31:57 -0700

Bryan,

How's it going?  I didn't have a chance to get my carb off today but I will
after work tomorrow and I'll post the results to the DR list after I finish.

I will either be completely stoked or completely discouraged.


>FWIW...did a little more tinkering w/  my carb over wkend.  I dropped the
JX
>needle down another notch, so that the clip  is now in the next-to-bottom
>position.  Noticable difference in power in low/mid range.  Still getting
>popping upon deceleration, but not as much.


If I remember correctly, the JX needle has 6 slots.  When I received my
needle from Thumper it was in the 3rd slot from the top.  Last weekend when
I started encountering my hesitation problem I dropped the clip one notch
down in hopes that it would remedy the situation.   Well, it did and it
didn't.  After my engine warmed up and the stumble returned I was
disappointed.  But while the carb was still relatively cool, my bike was
rockin' and was peppier than it ever had been.  When I take the carb off
again tomorrow, I may drop the clip one more notch so that it would also be
one up from the bottom.


>Yeah, I still think the stock pilot  jet is the way to go.   I talked w/
>guys at Thumper & they said they often leave the stock pilot in engines w/
>their  435 kit!

Wow.  LOL!!!!!  I don't know why the hell I put that 40 pilot jet in.  It
was just a flat out guess that I made when I started re-jetting the carb.
Thankfully, they're only a few bucks apiece.


>They say its best to use the pilot jet ONLY to idle the
>bike, & that you should be getting your mid & high end power from needle &
>main jet.  Alot of guys who are using the bigger pilot are running rich
when
>idleing, and actually using "pilot jet power" in the mid range (which
should
>be coming from needle), and thereby will not get as good throttle
>responsiveness as they could w/ proper needle/main adjustment.

Gotcha, this makes sense.  Thanks for the info.  All of you guys have been
great.

Rob.



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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:41:29 -0700

Hi ThunderSUB,

I don't know your exact situation, but everything I'm hearing indicates that
the pilot jet in my bike is too big and mine is only a #40.  I would have to
think a #42.5 is way too much unless you have some serious cylinder bore
happening.

I believe stock is 37.5, and I'm going to re-install mine tomorrow.

>I am using a #42.5 pilot jet and it has 4 holes on its side. The stock
>pilot jet was also a #42.5 pilot but it didn't have any holes on its
>side. My DR is a 1993 S model and has the Mikuni 33mm CV carb. Am I
>using the wrong pilot jet version ?


>Anyway, I checked the plug and it was very dark brown, near black, so
>I guess I am running it too rich. Any incovenient of using a rich
>jetting for a long period of time ?


If the plug is black, then you're rich.  However, I'd rather run rich than
lean.  I don't think it will hurt your engine (in fact it will probably run
cooler), but you may go through spark plugs a bit faster.  I'm not sure if
cylinder or valve deposits are a real worry on these engines.

Rob.



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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:52:23 -0700



>I learned about the mini stalk rear turn signals from this message list
>(thanks).  They held up great after my last wreck.  As I lifted the bike
>off my leg I glanced back to make sure the new turn signals I installed
>held up.  Sure enough, they were unscathed.



Chuck,

Where did you get these?  I've removed my rear turn signals for fear of
vaporizing them when I take my next spill.  I've wanted to get a pair of
shorter turn signals to replace them.  How much do they cost?


>I am starting to seriously consider increasing the amount of safety gear
>I use.  My crashes have been relatively minor but I don't think it's
>worth taking any unnecessary risks.  A more severe one might be just
>around the corner.  What are you fine folks' opinions of gear like boots,
>pads, armor and the like?  I use a 3/4 face helmet instead of a
>motorcross helmet and I'm beginning to wonder if this is such a good
>idea.  I'm talking about trail riding by the way - nothing intense.


Riding gear isn't something to skimp on.  You can get badly hurt even at low
speeds.  I rode my bike in the desert for 2 months without riding boots.  I
was using hiking boots with laces (I know, I know).  Now I ride with chest
protector, boots, gloves, riding pants, small hip pads, helmet, and goggles.
I feel much more confident when I ride with this gear on.  I know that I'm
pretty well protected in case of an accident.  It's not a license to go
balls out and ride way above my level, but it does give me peace of mind and
some extra courage to challenge myself a little so I can improve my riding
skills.

See ya,
Rob.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 22:04:47 -0500

Chuck,

Three weeks ago I crashed my DR on a trail ride which put me in the
hospital for a broken and dislocated wrist.  I surgically received 6 new
pins in a wild configuration to hold my wrist together and of course I also
benefit from the option color coordinated cast to go along with my
wardrobe.  Additionally I get to enjoy having these pins removed surgically
in a few weeks, whoo hoo, can't wait (sarcasm).

Safety equipment to protect my wrists is pretty slim, however the real
reason I'm telling you about this incident is to explain what else happened
as a result of my crash.

I wear a full face Snell 95 helmet.  When I went down I landed pretty much
face first.  As a result of my impact the chin protector was cracked in
three seperate places, and my visor was completely smashed.  I was
unconscience for quite awhile, frankly I don't know how long, could have
been 15 minutes could have been a half hour.  Suffice it to say that had I
not been wearing a full face helmet I'd be drinking my dinners through a
straw for the next several weeks in addition to the lost functionality I
now enjoy in my wrist.

BTW this was a simple family trail ride, my wife and 8 year old son were
with me and they're the ones who found me after my crash.  I wasn't doing
more than 30 miles an hour when my moment of stupidity occured.

I normally wear, jeans, gloves, long sleeve shirt, full face helmet MX
Boots and goggles.  Because I also took a pretty good punch in the chest
I'm adding a Chest Protector for my wife, my son, and myself.  Additionally
any padding, leg or shoulder protection is a plus.  When I ride my street
bike I'm in full leathers most of the time regardless of the heat index and
at the very least a jacket and jeans if we're heading into resturant or
some other place I'll need to rub elbows with people for a length of time.

Take care,
Eric

----------

I am starting to seriously consider increasing the amount of safety gear
I use.  My crashes have been relatively minor but I don't think it's
worth taking any unnecessary risks.  A more severe one might be just
around the corner.  What are you fine folks' opinions of gear like boots,
pads, armor and the like?  I use a 3/4 face helmet instead of a
motorcross helmet and I'm beginning to wonder if this is such a good
idea.  I'm talking about trail riding by the way - nothing intense.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork springs
Date: 13 Sep 1999 19:57:23 PDT

> Scott,
>
> I'm doing just the opposite.  I have the Kouba Link amd a new Eibach
> spring for one of my DR350's.  So far I have them installed but have not
> set the shock up or ridden on it yet.
>
> I am planning on ordering the 'cartridge emulator' kit and new fork
> springs after I get the rear end straightened out.  Let me know how your
> fork conversion works out for you.

  Will do.  As I'm thinking over what I'm about to do, I get the
feeling that just changing the front or rear is probably a bad idea.
The stock settings while not very good for someone my weight, are at
least matched.  I'm going to be modifying one end, which will probably
cause the other end to get very strange which will more than likely
give bad results overall.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 20:07:44 PDT

Hi Eric,

  Sorry to hear about your crash and hope you get well soon.  What you
wrote was well said.  It's too bad that sometimes we have to learn the
hard way.  Here's what I've always worn whenever trail riding:

MX full face helmet (Snell 95)
Goggles
Chest and Back protector
Long sleeve jersey with padding at the elbows
MX pants
Gloves
MX boots
Knee and shin protector

  I'm thinking about adding an elbow protector as I saw a very nice
one recently.  The boots have saved my toes countless times.  Just
recently I clipped a hidden tree stump at about 30 mph and it wedged
my boot between the stump and my footpeg.  I actually bent the cast
footpeg and put a cool looking dent into my alpinestar steel toe
protector on the boot.  Had I been wearing regular hiking boots or
tennis shoes, I guarantee my foot would have been broken.

  Also, I don't know how many times I've kicked up rocks and branches
and they've hit me right in the knee and shin.  I've actually torn a
pair of pants via this method.  Without protection my knees would be
in even worse shape.

  I always say buy as much protection as you can.  Someday you'll be
thankful you did.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 22:02:16 -0700

Knee protection is an absolute must.

I don't wear a chest protector because I have too much other junk on my
back and chest when riding - back pack, and a helmet cam recorder on my
chest.

Doug.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, September 13, 1999 8:47 PM

I learned about the mini stalk rear turn signals from this message list
(thanks).  They held up great after my last wreck.  As I lifted the bike
off my leg I glanced back to make sure the new turn signals I installed
held up.  Sure enough, they were unscathed.

I am starting to seriously consider increasing the amount of safety gear
I use.  My crashes have been relatively minor but I don't think it's
worth taking any unnecessary risks.  A more severe one might be just
around the corner.  What are you fine folks' opinions of gear like boots,
pads, armor and the like?  I use a 3/4 face helmet instead of a
motorcross helmet and I'm beginning to wonder if this is such a good
idea.  I'm talking about trail riding by the way - nothing intense.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach
'92 DR350S

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 13 Sep 1999 22:05:34 -0700

Twice I have ripped that little steel tow protector clean off of my boots by hitting rocks and such.

Doug

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, September 13, 1999 8:08 PM
Cc:    [e-mail]; [e-mail]

Hi Eric,

  Sorry to hear about your crash and hope you get well soon.  What you
wrote was well said.  It's too bad that sometimes we have to learn the
hard way.  Here's what I've always worn whenever trail riding:

MX full face helmet (Snell 95)
Goggles
Chest and Back protector
Long sleeve jersey with padding at the elbows
MX pants
Gloves
MX boots
Knee and shin protector

  I'm thinking about adding an elbow protector as I saw a very nice
one recently.  The boots have saved my toes countless times.  Just
recently I clipped a hidden tree stump at about 30 mph and it wedged
my boot between the stump and my footpeg.  I actually bent the cast
footpeg and put a cool looking dent into my alpinestar steel toe
protector on the boot.  Had I been wearing regular hiking boots or
tennis shoes, I guarantee my foot would have been broken.

  Also, I don't know how many times I've kicked up rocks and branches
and they've hit me right in the knee and shin.  I've actually torn a
pair of pants via this method.  Without protection my knees would be
in even worse shape.

  I always say buy as much protection as you can.  Someday you'll be
thankful you did.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 14 Sep 1999 01:29:21 -0500

I think I got the mini stalk turn signals from White Brothers for about
$15.  I can't remember for sure so whoever told me about them on this
list has to help with the info.

I have become aware lately that not wearing safety gear is foolish.  I
have had a few close calls in the 5mos I have been riding the DR.  I have
been glad the bike is so light (compared to a 600cc or 650cc bike) and
doesn't have more power.  I think I have been lucky to be injury free
till now.   I was amazed a couple of times after I crashed and stood up
without any pain.   I have been concerned by my ability to go faster and
faster through sometimes difficult terrain.  When I started riding I was
afraid of crashing so I kept my speed down.  Now that I'm speeding up and
getting more comfortable, I know that a high speed crash (i.e. 20+ mph is
high speed for me) is a real possibility.  I see trees whizzing past and
think to myself how much damage they could do to my tender, unprotected
body.  My safety gear consists of the following (I'm really serious):

tennis shoes
jeans
3/4 face helmet (when I feel like it)

I haven't been hurt on the DR yet but I broke my arm on a Honda CT 70
when I was 13 yrs old.  As a result, that arm is 1& 1/2 inches shorter
than the unaffected one.  I am starting to realize that I have been
really dumb (I'm 32 and should know better).  And you know, I always
think "good for you" when I see the guy on the ski slope or surfer with a
helmet and dumb ass me forgets about safety gear when it's me who will be
in the hospital.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Markus LIndrgen <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Carb,filter ...
Date: 14 Sep 1999 08:23:03 +0200

Hello all!

Guess if I had a lot of e mails?! I only check my mail at the university
and during the summer break they just kept coming...

I don=B4t know if you=B4re aware of the chains effect on shifting. I=B4ve no=
ticed
that when I have cleaned and oiled it the bike shifts smoother. In fact,
the whole bike feels better.

I=B4m surprised to read about the problems you=B4re having with the CV carb.=
  I
ride enduro with my DR S -92 and have never had any problems despite many
falls and low speed running in hot whether when stalling. Is it a BST 33 SS
(like mine)? Stock jetting on my carb is 42,5 pilot and 135 main.

Have anyone tested some kind of dry lubricant for the chain? When you ride
in sand it gets dirty in seconds and all sand must be like grinding on it.

Does Twin air filters fit nicely in the air box? I already have a high flow
filter (multi air) but it does not fit very well so I=B4m afraid that air ma=
y
enter the engine unfiltered. I mounted the stock filter and went out
testing the bike and it had definitely lost power. Now I=B4m thinking of
buying another filter and Twin air seems to be a common choice.

Thanks!

Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden (not much left of the bike season here. I=B4m getting a
bit depressed :-)


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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 14 Sep 1999 08:23:00 +0200

** High Priority **

>I guess I am running it too rich. Any incovenient of using a rich
>jetting for a long period of time ?

For sure: too much petrol dumping into the bore means that it doesn't
get burned up. This has 2 major effects:

1) Obviously your fuel consumption is way too high
2) The fuel washes the nice lubricating oil off the cylinder wall, and
when the piston comes back up, it's running dry.....menas you're gonna
destroy your rings in the medium to long term. I reckon running too rich
on the main jet, and too much use of the choke also, has been the cause
of too many top end rebuilds.......

Regards


Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator


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From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 14 Sep 1999 00:47:20 -0700

The lubricating oil never comes in contact with the gas in a four stroke engine.  The
engine will actually last longer running slightly rich (runs cooler).  The engine will
bog down and foul plugs if it is too rich along with all the extra un-burn
hydrocarbons that are spewed in to the environment.

On a two-stroke you would have to run it very rich or flood the crank-case out with
gas to run into problems with the oil being washed away.  If you running pre-mix,
there would be oil in the gas any ways.

I hope that helps you out.

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego


Jakes Louw wrote:

> ** High Priority **
>
> >I guess I am running it too rich. Any incovenient of using a rich
> >jetting for a long period of time ?
>
> For sure: too much petrol dumping into the bore means that it doesn't
> get burned up. This has 2 major effects:
>
> 1) Obviously your fuel consumption is way too high
> 2) The fuel washes the nice lubricating oil off the cylinder wall, and
> when the piston comes back up, it's running dry.....menas you're gonna
> destroy your rings in the medium to long term. I reckon running too rich
> on the main jet, and too much use of the choke also, has been the cause
> of too many top end rebuilds.......
>
> Regards
>
> Jakes Louw
>
> HP-UX Systems Administrator
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) VA riders
Date: 14 Sep 1999 08:08:49 EDT

Chuck,
 I got a Husky WXE510 that should fit you nicely :)

Mike A.
Nashville

<<  Oh, another criticism of the DR:  If you are as big as me (6'5" 230lbs)
 > the bike is too low to the ground and it's too short.  I find it
 > necessary to sit way back on the seat or else most of my weight is toward
 > the front tire making it difficult to ride through mud and sand.
 >
 > Chuck Vokac
 > [e-mail]
 > Panama City Beach, FL
 > '92 DR350S
  >>

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Forks
Date: 14 Sep 1999 08:17:40 EDT

Jesse,
 I would be interested to hear your opinion on this mans letter.
Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville

In a message dated 9/13/99 7:39:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Hi guys,

 Since I replaced the stock shock for a WP unit, the forks behaviour
 seem even worse...

 So I am thinking to upgrade the forks. I have already got it revalved,
 new springs, new oil, etc... but it still isn't as good as for example
 my buddy's XR400R stock forks.

 I was thinking about one of the 3 options :

 1. Buy used RM forks from a used parts dealer. Which RM model (year)
 has forks that fit a 93 DR-S ?

 2. Buy Race-Tech fork cartridge emulators $124.95 (WB p/n 11-509 page
 220). By the WB catalog it seems there aren't Race-Tech fork gold
 valves available for the '93 DRS, right ?

 3. Race-Tech fork cartridge conversion kit $428.51 (WB p/n 11-506 page
 219). Is this worth it ? Is it better to buy this kit or to buy a used
 set of RM forks (more risky in my opinion...).

 If money wasn't an issue (but it is...), which one is probably give me
 that state-of-the-art fork feeling ?

 Please e-mail me your opinions and comments.

 Thanks in advance. >>

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) mini stalks
Date: 14 Sep 1999 09:12:07 -0500

I got the mini stalk turn signals from Dennis Kirk (not White Bros)
sorry

Chuck Vokac

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From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) I can't figure this out.   Arrrghh!
Date: 14 Sep 1999 14:03:31 +0200

** High Priority **

>The lubricating oil never comes in contact with the gas in a four
stroke engine.

Sorry, Jeff, I have to disagree: all 4-strokes should have a certain
amount of oil present on the sleeve even after the piston has reached
the bottom of its stroke, and the oil rings have done their thing.

Most con-rods have a drilled pipe inside that actually pumps oil up
onto the bottom of the piston, and which then splashes onto the bore. I
must admit that we're talking about an oil layer only microns thick, but
it is neccesary for the continued health of your rings and cylinder
bore.

Yes, a slightly rich mixture can do no harm: but running an excessive
mixture (like riding with the choke circuit on) will definitely cause
harm.

That's why most bike and car manufacturers request that you should only
run the choke if it is absolutely mandatory to keep the engine turning.

Regards

Jakes


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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Crashed again - mini stalks did great
Date: 14 Sep 1999 06:21:24 -0700

Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Three weeks ago I crashed my DR on a trail ride which put me in the
> hospital for a broken and dislocated wrist.
> Safety equipment to protect my wrists is pretty slim, however the real
> reason I'm telling you about this incident is to explain what else happened
> as a result of my crash.
snip
> I normally wear, jeans, gloves, long sleeve shirt, full face helmet MX
> Boots and goggles.  Because I also took a pretty good punch in the chest
> I'm adding a Chest Protector for my wife, my son, and myself.  Additionally
> any padding, leg or shoulder protection is a plus.  When I ride my street
> bike I'm in full leathers most of the time regardless of the heat index and
> at the very least a jacket and jeans if we're heading into resturant or
> some other place I'll need to rub elbows with people for a length of time.
>
> Take care,
> Eric

Hey guys,
    I'd forget about the Levi's for riding pants. They will
shred when you slide on any hard surface, leaving your legs
to shred next. Get some good riding pants, and glare back at
the people who stare when you enter a restaurant. They're
probably the ones who don't where their seat belts anyway.
Don't they look when you go in with full leathers on? Don't
worry about them and their problems, worry about the body,
they are hard to fix.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
http://www.mikthebik.com/

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Forks
Date: 14 Sep 1999 07:20:26 -0700

Hi Mike, I have done just what you are thinking about. I bought a set of RM250 forks
1987's I believe 88's are conventionals also. they slip right into your triple clamps
how ever you will have to get new bearings for the front wheel the axle is larger on
the RM but this is OK they make the same OD bearing with different bore sizes. the only
other problem is the spacers may need a little adjustment then you are good to go.
These forks are cartrige forks the guy I sold them to really likes them. I bought some
45mm Marzocci unts and am happy with them I had to get creative to get them to work
also. The 87 forks cost me  $ 225.00 at a salvage yard . Be sure to check the insides
and put in new oil and seals before you bolt them on. I believe this would be the most
cost effective of the choices and still get a good set of forks. I think they would be
superior to the emulator mod. You will have 1inch more travel,  compression dampening
and rebound dampening with the rm forks, you may have to run them a little high in the
triple clamps to balance out the front 12" vs 11" rear travel.  Gee I do carry dont"I ,
Hope this gives you some Help in your choices.
Regards  Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Jesse,
>  I would be interested to hear your opinion on this mans letter.
> Thanks
> Mike A.
> Nashville
>
> In a message dated 9/13/99 7:39:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << Hi guys,
>
>  Since I replaced the stock shock for a WP unit, the forks behaviour
>  seem even worse...
>
>  So I am thinking to upgrade the forks. I have already got it revalved,
>  new springs, new oil, etc... but it still isn't as good as for example
>  my buddy's XR400R stock forks.
>
>  I was thinking about one of the 3 options :
>
>  1. Buy used RM forks from a used parts dealer. Which RM model (year)
>  has forks that fit a 93 DR-S ?
>
>  2. Buy Race-Tech fork cartridge emulators $124.95 (WB p/n 11-509 page
>  220). By the WB catalog it seems there aren't Race-Tech fork gold
>  valves available for the '93 DRS, right ?
>
>  3. Race-Tech fork cartridge conversion kit $428.51 (WB p/n 11-506 page
>  219). Is this worth it ? Is it better to buy this kit or to buy a used
>  set of RM forks (more risky in my opinion...).
>
>  If money wasn't an issue (but it is...), which one is probably give me
>  that state-of-the-art fork feeling ?
>
>  Please e-mail me your opinions and comments.
>
>  Thanks in advance. >>
>
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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FLORIDA DUAL SPORT
Date: 14 Sep 1999 13:18:17 -0400

The Flyer And Entry Form For The 1999 Seminole Wind Dual Sport Ride, On
November 6, 1999 in Eureka, Florida has been posted on the Withlacoochee
Dual Sport Riders Webpage at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245

Check It Out!

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet"


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) Exhuast
Date: 14 Sep 1999 18:50:32 -0400 (EDT)

what is the best exhuast for the money?I am leaning towards the FMF
megamax2 but a friend toldme of a FMF powercore5 for the DR.A few bucks
more but anyone heard of it?


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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) header pipe
Date: 14 Sep 1999 21:59:56 -0400 (EDT)

Here goes a silly idea tell me what you guys think.On race cars at the
track some guys wrap the headers on the motor with a cloth like
tape.This  reduces engine bay temps and keeps the motor running
cooler.Think this would work-help the DR's?Just a thought let me know
what you guys think.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) header pipe
Date: 14 Sep 1999 22:05:43 EDT

In a message dated 9/14/99 9:02:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Here goes a silly idea  >>


Yep!  : )

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 14 Sep 1999 21:08:28 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BEFEF5.4AEC5F00
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi all,

I worked on my bike again today to see if I could solve my hesitation =
problem.  When I wheeled that bike out onto the driveway to work on it, =
I was in a zone.  I had the carb off, pilot jet re-installed, needle jet =
clip lowered one more notch to second to last groove from bottom, and =
the bike put fully back together in 47 minutes.  I was a man with a =
mission.

So I take the bike for my road test.  I didn't know what to think, but I =
crossed my fingers and took off.  To make a long story short, the =
hesitation is STILL there but is less intense and shorter in length.  =
The throttle response is better and the rpm range where the hesitation =
shows up is narrower. =20

Before adjusting the carb, the hesitation showed from 4000-4800 rpms =
while twisting  throttle from about 1/5 open or more.

Now, the hesitation shows up from 3800-4200 rpms while twisting the =
throttle 1/3 open or more.  This may not sound like much improvement, =
but it really is.  The bike is much peppier than it was yesterday.  And =
since the hesitation is way down in the functional rpm range my problem =
is mostly solved as I rarely run the bike below 4500 rpm off road.  I =
got a little more high end power which I attribute to raising the needle =
a notch.

However, the fact remains that the hesitation has not completely =
disappeared yet.  This sort of sticks me in the side a bit.  I MUST have =
perfect engine operation, and since I can fully re-jet this baby in less =
than an hour I hope to try more combinations soon.  I'm obsessed with =
it, I admit it, what can I say.

Now, I must ask if anybody here has any further suggestions.  Do I dare =
take the needle clip all the way down to the bottom notch?  Does anybody =
run their JX needle fully raised up?

Would a hotter plug do anything for this situation? =20

Thanks again guys, you've been a great help through all this.

Rob.






------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BEFEF5.4AEC5F00
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I worked on my bike again today to see if I =
could solve=20
my hesitation problem.  When I wheeled that bike out onto the =
driveway to=20
work on it, I was in a zone.  I had the carb off, pilot jet =
re-installed,=20
needle jet clip lowered one more notch to second to last groove from =
bottom, and=20
the bike put fully back together in 47 minutes.  I was a man with a =

mission.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>So I take the bike for my road test.  I =
didn't=20
know what to think, but I crossed my fingers and took off.  To make =
a long=20
story short, the hesitation is STILL there but is less intense and =
shorter in=20
length.  The throttle response is better and the rpm range where =
the=20
hesitation shows up is narrower.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Before adjusting the carb, the hesitation =
showed from=20
4000-4800 rpms while twisting  throttle from about 1/5 open or=20
more.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Now, the hesitation shows up from 3800-4200 =
rpms while=20
twisting the throttle 1/3 open or more.  This may not sound like =
much=20
improvement, but it really is.  The bike is much peppier than it =
was=20
yesterday.  And since the hesitation is way down in the functional =
rpm=20
range my problem is mostly solved as I rarely run the bike below 4500 =
rpm off=20
road.  I got a little more high end power which I attribute to =
raising the=20
needle a notch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>However, the fact remains that the hesitation =
has not=20
completely disappeared yet.  This sort of sticks me in the side a=20
bit.  I MUST have perfect engine operation, and since I can fully =
re-jet=20
this baby in less than an hour I hope to try more combinations =
soon.  I'm=20
obsessed with it, I admit it, what can I say.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Now, I must ask if anybody here has any further suggestions.  =
Do I=20
dare take the needle clip all the way down to the bottom notch?  =
Does=20
anybody run their JX needle fully raised up?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Would a hotter plug do anything for this situation?  </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks again guys, you've been a great help through all this.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Rob.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01BEFEF5.4AEC5F00--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) header pipe
Date: 15 Sep 1999 01:38:28 EDT

In a message dated 9/14/99 10:02:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Here goes a silly idea >>

Ditto

<<This  reduces engine bay temps and keeps the motor running
 cooler.Think this would work-help the DR's?Just a thought let me know
 what you guys think.  >>

Engine bay? Last time I checked my motor was pretty much hangin' out in the
breeze.......

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhuast
Date: 15 Sep 1999 02:10:12 EDT

Ya know, before ya plunk down a wad a cash for a "performance" exhaust, take
a good look at your bike. Is it pretty much bone stock? If it is, then the
best exhaust system for the bike is the one the factory put on. Ya see the
trouble with "performance" exhausts on big 4-stroke bikes is that in order
for them to be truely effective at makin' great gobs of God's own Horse Power
an'  Torque, they gotta be INCREDIBLY LOUD. Your gonna drop at least $300
bucks for some Flash Gordon gizmo with absolutely no moving parts to gain a
massive 5 to 7 percent increase in Horse Power (if you believe what the ad
men are saying). Lets see, your basic, stock DR350 humps out about 30HP on a
good day...maybe....and, according to my math, that wad o' cash will get you
a whopping 2.1HP. Ah, but the weight you say....think of the great weight
savings by replacing the cast iron, lead weighted  stock system......You'll
save maybe 10 or 15 lbs....think you'll REALLY notice it on a 275-300 pound
bike the next time you do a face plant? I.M. not so H.O., I'd spend that 300
bucks that's burnin' a hole in your pocket on suspension improvements; Kouba
link, dialing in the front forks, setting the proper sag, etc. You wanna make
some extra HP, carve the top off your airbox, stuff a good aftermarket filter
in it and then dial in the jetting......these are REALLY cheap mods and
they'll make the bike run much better.

Unless you're gonna put a big bore kit and cam on the bike, an aftermarket
exhaust is a bigtime waste of money. All you'll get for your hard earned cash
is a kewl looking exhaust pipe and a very loud bike. Like where you
ride?....Ride quietly so you can.....

Mike
' 93 DR350
sans "performance" exhaust

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) header pipe
Date: 15 Sep 1999 00:02:43 -0700

I have seen two-stroke expansion chambers wrapped with that stuff.  Supposedly an
expansion chamber works better if you keep the heat even over most of the inside
surface.  I don't think it would make much performance difference on a 4-stroke header
pipe.  I might help keep some of the heat off your legs in hot desert heat.  My right
ankle had welts all over when I went riding though 110 degree heat in Glamis (So.
California) this July.  The DR gives off quite a bit of heat for a 350.

P.S. How many of you would like to see an after market "engine bay" faring for the
DR350?...I am just joking.

Jeff Corsaro


John wrote:

> Here goes a silly idea tell me what you guys think.On race cars at the
> track some guys wrap the headers on the motor with a cloth like
> tape.This  reduces engine bay temps and keeps the motor running
> cooler.Think this would work-help the DR's?Just a thought let me know
> what you guys think.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhuast
Date: 15 Sep 1999 05:27:00 PDT

I've been happy w/ the MegaMax2....tunable (w/ disks), good quality, and
mounts up solid as a rock to the stock header pipe: I've taken a few falls
right on the exhaust & it didnt even get scratched.  BajaDesigns
(www.bajadesigns.com) had the best price when I was shopping for it.
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: [e-mail] (John)
>Reply-To: [e-mail] (John)
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Exhuast
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 18:50:32 -0400 (EDT)
>
>what is the best exhuast for the money?I am leaning towards the FMF
>megamax2 but a friend toldme of a FMF powercore5 for the DR.A few bucks
>more but anyone heard of it?
>
>
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>subject blank
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>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 15 Sep 1999 05:40:05 PDT

Hey Rob, I dont remember you saying anything about the pilot jet needle
valve....do you have the Scott T-handle adjuster?  The on-the-fly adjustment
of that baby is very nice.....lets you tune it in.  I have mine opened 2
turns out & have no flat spots anywhere in the revs.

Do you have a disc-type exhaust?  You might try adjusting on that end as
well; on my FMFMM2, I'm running all the disks w/ tiny washers stacked
between disks on the last 3 to open it up a little more...loud, but not too
loud, and alot quieter than running it fully uncorked (which gives me a flat
spot anyway).  If you have stock can, you might consider cutting the end off
and pulling out the baffle....fellow lister Dave in the Dallas area did this
recently....how did it end up working Dave?

Let us know how you do if you take the needle to the last notch....I noticed
an improvement going to the same notch you're at now, & might try the last
one to see if it gets even better.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
>To: "DRList" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 21:08:28 -0700
>
>Hi all,
>
>I worked on my bike again today to see if I could solve my hesitation
>problem.  When I wheeled that bike out onto the driveway to work on it, I
>was in a zone.  I had the carb off, pilot jet re-installed, needle jet clip
>lowered one more notch to second to last groove from bottom, and the bike
>put fully back together in 47 minutes.  I was a man with a mission.
>
>So I take the bike for my road test.  I didn't know what to think, but I
>crossed my fingers and took off.  To make a long story short, the
>hesitation is STILL there but is less intense and shorter in length.  The
>throttle response is better and the rpm range where the hesitation shows up
>is narrower.
>
>Before adjusting the carb, the hesitation showed from 4000-4800 rpms while
>twisting  throttle from about 1/5 open or more.
>
>Now, the hesitation shows up from 3800-4200 rpms while twisting the
>throttle 1/3 open or more.  This may not sound like much improvement, but
>it really is.  The bike is much peppier than it was yesterday.  And since
>the hesitation is way down in the functional rpm range my problem is mostly
>solved as I rarely run the bike below 4500 rpm off road.  I got a little
>more high end power which I attribute to raising the needle a notch.
>
>However, the fact remains that the hesitation has not completely
>disappeared yet.  This sort of sticks me in the side a bit.  I MUST have
>perfect engine operation, and since I can fully re-jet this baby in less
>than an hour I hope to try more combinations soon.  I'm obsessed with it, I
>admit it, what can I say.
>
>Now, I must ask if anybody here has any further suggestions.  Do I dare
>take the needle clip all the way down to the bottom notch?  Does anybody
>run their JX needle fully raised up?
>
>Would a hotter plug do anything for this situation?
>
>Thanks again guys, you've been a great help through all this.
>
>Rob.
>
>
>
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Police Bike in San Francisco
Date: 15 Sep 1999 12:52:37 -0700

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My friend sent me this photo of a DR350SE Police bike over looking a =
bunch of motor scooters in San Francisco.

http://www.poguedesigntoys.com/police_dr350.jpg

Jeff Corsaro

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My friend sent me this photo of a DR350SE Police =
bike over=20
looking a bunch of motor scooters in San Francisco.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.poguedesigntoys.com/police_dr350.jpg">http://www.pogue=
designtoys.com/police_dr350.jpg</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Jeff Corsaro</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEFF79.2FD70920--


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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) You bunch of clowns!!!!
Date: 15 Sep 1999 17:01:31 -0400 (EDT)

I looked in my DR manual and could not find my engine bay DUH.I was
talking about race CARS.I just figured the theory on how it keeps
exhaust heat off the motor thus keeping on a CAR engine bay temps down
it may keep the engine cooler running on the DR's as well.It seems tony
is the only other person with this idea and he says it helps.Geez you
guys analize every statement.If less heat comes off the pipe one would
think it will have to effect the motor since they are so close
together.Of course the engine creates its own heat but none would
radiate from the pipe.There now I have held your hands through this like
kids misbehaving.Engine bay go figure?


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From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhuast
Date: 15 Sep 1999 17:13:19 -0400

mike
what you say may be true but my standard can was heating up so much that =
it
was melting the rear plastics,as for the noise
the traffic would pull out in front of me, but with a performance can the=

traffic now hears me and dose not pull out in front of me,
so i think its a good saftey devise( only my opinion ).
                                                                         =
  =

                           stevie(scotland) =


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) You bunch of clowns!!!!
Date: 15 Sep 1999 20:36:45 EDT

In a message dated 9/15/99 4:02:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Of course the engine creates its own heat but none would
 radiate from the pipe. >>


Figure the minicule power saving from the cloth wrap would be negated by the
32 lbs of mud build up on the cloth!

Doug

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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Exhuast
Date: 15 Sep 1999 17:57:12 -0700

Mike:

I really wish I would have read your e-mail, and then had the conversations
I have had on DR suspensions (including Norm Kouba, and baja designs).
 Because you are exactly right; why waste money on something that has made
me go faster into my falls!  The suspension is the big issue with the DR,
especially the front.  I have a big gun exhaust, and an opened up air box,
and at my altitude (5000') it runs terrific, with no jetting mods.  The
pipe does look cool and the sound really lets your buddies know you're
coming (if you know what I mean - now think hard about this one!)

Anyway, mine is for sale 1996 DR350SE great looking, great running, always
garaged, and proper maintenance.  Today $2700 Tomorrow $??

Strick
Dave Strickler
[e-mail]


-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Tuesday, September 14, 1999 11:10 PM
Cc:    [e-mail]

Ya know, before ya plunk down a wad a cash for a "performance" exhaust,
take
a good look at your bike. Is it pretty much bone stock? If it is, then the
best exhaust system for the bike is the one the factory put on. Ya see the
trouble with "performance" exhausts on big 4-stroke bikes is that in order
for them to be truely effective at makin' great gobs of God's own Horse
Power
an'  Torque, they gotta be INCREDIBLY LOUD. Your gonna drop at least $300
bucks for some Flash Gordon gizmo with absolutely no moving parts to gain a
massive 5 to 7 percent increase in Horse Power (if you believe what the ad
men are saying). Lets see, your basic, stock DR350 humps out about 30HP on
a
good day...maybe....and, according to my math, that wad o' cash will get
you
a whopping 2.1HP. Ah, but the weight you say....think of the great weight
savings by replacing the cast iron, lead weighted  stock system......You'll
save maybe 10 or 15 lbs....think you'll REALLY notice it on a 275-300 pound
bike the next time you do a face plant? I.M. not so H.O., I'd spend that
300
bucks that's burnin' a hole in your pocket on suspension improvements;
Kouba
link, dialing in the front forks, setting the proper sag, etc. You wanna
make
some extra HP, carve the top off your airbox, stuff a good aftermarket
filter
in it and then dial in the jetting......these are REALLY cheap mods and
they'll make the bike run much better.

Unless you're gonna put a big bore kit and cam on the bike, an aftermarket
exhaust is a bigtime waste of money. All you'll get for your hard earned
cash
is a kewl looking exhaust pipe and a very loud bike. Like where you
ride?....Ride quietly so you can.....

Mike
' 93 DR350
sans "performance" exhaust

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Thomas Jamrog)
Subject: (dr350) DR 350S for sale
Date: 15 Sep 1999 21:43:24 -0400

  1990 DR350S.  4,000 miles.  new chain, sprockets, battery. 2 sets of
tires- street and dirt.   $1500 OBO, in Maine.  Tom (Evenings 207-763-3406)

+---------------------+---------------------------------+
|     Tom Jamrog      |   Two-wheeled adventure writer  |
+---------------------+---------------------------------
+-------------------------------------------------------+
||                 [e-mail]                 ||
||           http://www.midcoast.com/~balrog

                   RFD # 1, Box 5000
                 Lincolnville, ME 04849           ||
+-------------------------------------------------------+
"You've got to give everything you've got to this life."-Lech Walesa




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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 15 Sep 1999 21:53:47 -0700



How's it going Bryan?

>Hey Rob, I dont remember you saying anything about the pilot jet needle
>valve....do you have the Scott T-handle adjuster?

I don't have this little gadget.  I have not done anything to the pilot jet
needle valve.  I'm not even sure I know where that is.  Is that the air
screw adjustment thing on the bottom of the carb?  If it is, I can try
adjusting it 'cause I had the boys at the local shop drill out that cover
Suzuki puts in there to prevent access.

I want to get a T-handle but I don't know the first thing about how this
adjustment affects the overall carb performance.  Does the T-handle stay in
all the time or is it a tool you shove up in there when you want to adjust
it?

> The on-the-fly adjustment
>of that baby is very nice.....lets you tune it in.  I have mine opened 2
>turns out & have no flat spots anywhere in the revs.


Now, you are exactly where I want to be.  I want smooth engine operation
over the whole range.

>Do you have a disc-type exhaust?  You might try adjusting on that end as
>well; on my FMFMM2, I'm running all the disks w/ tiny washers stacked
>between disks on the last 3 to open it up a little more...loud, but not too
>loud, and alot quieter than running it fully uncorked (which gives me a
flat
>spot anyway).

No, I'm stock with the exhaust.  I have been considering aftermarket pipes
but I'm hesitant to go with a disc system because I've read that they can
damage the rear fender because of the circumferential exhaust outlet.   Have
you exprienced any fender damage so far?

>If you have stock can, you might consider cutting the end off
>and pulling out the baffle....fellow lister Dave in the Dallas area did
this
>recently....how did it end up working Dave?


Hmmm, I might have to give this a try if I can get the baffle out without
grinding welds.  I haven't really looked at my exhaust setup yet.

>Let us know how you do if you take the needle to the last notch....I
noticed
>an improvement going to the same notch you're at now, & might try the last
>one to see if it gets even better.


After I rode it tonight, I don't think I'm going to drop the clip again (I
may however try it just for an experiment).  The engine was too hot after my
ride to comfortably remove the spark plug without sizzling my fingers off,
so I'll wait and look at it tomorrow.  I have a hunch that I maybe running a
bit too ruch on the needle.  We'll see what the spark plug shows.

And so the chase goes on........

Thanks Bryan,
Rob.



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap
Date: 16 Sep 1999 04:48:03 EDT

Guys

Its not the power gain it just makes the engine run better cooler air around
the cylinder head as for the mud build up you get if anything less because
the lack of heat to dry the mud out if your worried about mud just look under
the rear fender after a muddy run i have used the set-up for about 3 years on
my DR350se i have been in the top five places in all the enduros i have raced
the pasted two years on a trail bike

we also use exhaust wrap on our aircraft and that make a big difference

so go figure

tony

View my company at www.bobcroweaircraft.com

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap
Date: 16 Sep 1999 08:49:38 EDT

In a message dated 9/16/99 3:49:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< makes the engine run better cooler air around
 the cylinder head >>


Looks like this got serious so time for serious questions.  Your success at
enduros may speak more to your riding abilities and less to the effectiveness
of the exhaust wrap.  Have you taken any cylinder head temperature readings
that indicate lower head temps as compared to stock?  If so, exactly where is
the head cooler? In all that I have ever read, heat extraction and
dissipation is critical to engine components longevity.  As with cylinder
fins which pull heat from the combustion chamber and dissipate it to the
atmosphere so does the exhaust header pipe serve the same purpose.  Have you
ever noticed the finning collar used around many exhaust headers?  It serves
to dissipate heat.  Wrapping the pipe and retaining heat at the exhaust ports
would definitely subject the exhaust valves to more heat.  How much more heat
would only be shown with proper lab testing.  Also to suggest that less mud
will build up on the engine in any significant amount is totally
disingenuous.  There will still remain abundant amounts engine heat to bake
mud on the fins.

Doug

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR Exhaust Wrap
Date: 16 Sep 1999 09:30:27 EDT

In a message dated 9/16/1999 8:51:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  totally
 disingenuous.  >>

Shouldn't it be -- total disingenuousness.

The only reason I ask is that I am trying to assist my son with 5th grade
language arts and sometimes we use E-mail threads for examples.

dis*in*gen*u*ous (adjective)

First appeared 1655

 : lacking in candor; also: giving a false appearance of simple frankness:
CALCULATING

 -- dis*in*gen*u*ous*ly (adverb)

 -- dis*in*gen*u*ous*ness (noun)

Just wondering,

John

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From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 10:09:29 -0400

Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
smashing front signals?

Heston
Winston-Salem, NC (near NC mountains)


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From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 09:31:14 -0500

While it appears to be a good idea and looks pretty cool I've heard of the
Acerbis guard w/lights breaking pretty easily and usually not from crashes
but from bouncing the guards off of trees which is my riding style :-)

Brian Luttman
1999 WR400F
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Heston LaMar
> Sent: Thursday, September 16, 1999 9:09 AM
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
>
>
> Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
> the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
> a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
> signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
> smashing front signals?
>
> Heston
> Winston-Salem, NC (near NC mountains)
>
>
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> Leave subject blank
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>


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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 16 Sep 1999 07:40:17 PDT



>How's it going Bryan?

Doin' good Rob!  Finally getting cooler here in Dallas...much more fun
riding!

The pilot jet needle valve (yes, this is the air screw adjustment thing on
bottom of carb you've already drilled out to be able to adjust) controls the
fuel flow thru the pilot valve.  The T-handle is beneficial because it
replaces the stock air screw with one that extends past the bottom of the
carb w/ a little "T" so its easy to adjust without taking off (or at least
loosening/rotating) the carb to get to the stock airscrew thats up in there
a ways.  I've heard some guys are able to get up in there w/ something to
adjust the screw w/ the carb in place, but it HAS to be a hassel.  For $16
bucks, the T-handle is well worth it....dont even have to shut the bike off
to adjust pilot valve flow & see immediate difference for comparison.  If
you get the T-handle you will need to cut off about 1/3" of the little
magnesium housing that shrouds access to the existing air screw....its very
quick & easy to do.  You must do this to allow for clearance of the extended
T-handle over the starter.

Regarding ill effects of the disc-type exhausts (heat melting rear fender),
this is not a proplem w/ the FMFmegamax2....cause it has a little shield
that diverts exhaust gas from hitting the fender at its closest point.  Now
I DO have a slightly discolored part on the fender (which washes off w/ some
scrubbing), but no heat stress whatsoever.  I think the SuperTrapps that I
have seen on other bikes have NOT had such a diverter shield, and probably
would result in some melting.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

> >valve....do you have the Scott T-handle adjuster?
>
>I don't have this little gadget.  I have not done anything to the pilot jet
>needle valve.  I'm not even sure I know where that is.  Is that the air
>screw adjustment thing on the bottom of the carb?  If it is, I can try
>adjusting it 'cause I had the boys at the local shop drill out that cover
>Suzuki puts in there to prevent access.
>
>I want to get a T-handle but I don't know the first thing about how this
>adjustment affects the overall carb performance.  Does the T-handle stay in
>all the time or is it a tool you shove up in there when you want to adjust
>it?
>
> > The on-the-fly adjustment
> >of that baby is very nice.....lets you tune it in.  I have mine opened 2
> >turns out & have no flat spots anywhere in the revs.
>
>
>Now, you are exactly where I want to be.  I want smooth engine operation
>over the whole range.
>
> >Do you have a disc-type exhaust?  You might try adjusting on that end as
> >well; on my FMFMM2, I'm running all the disks w/ tiny washers stacked
> >between disks on the last 3 to open it up a little more...loud, but not
>too
> >loud, and alot quieter than running it fully uncorked (which gives me a
>flat
> >spot anyway).
>
>No, I'm stock with the exhaust.  I have been considering aftermarket pipes
>but I'm hesitant to go with a disc system because I've read that they can
>damage the rear fender because of the circumferential exhaust outlet.
>Have
>you exprienced any fender damage so far?
>
> >If you have stock can, you might consider cutting the end off
> >and pulling out the baffle....fellow lister Dave in the Dallas area did
>this
> >recently....how did it end up working Dave?
>
>
>Hmmm, I might have to give this a try if I can get the baffle out without
>grinding welds.  I haven't really looked at my exhaust setup yet.
>
> >Let us know how you do if you take the needle to the last notch....I
>noticed
> >an improvement going to the same notch you're at now, & might try the
>last
> >one to see if it gets even better.
>
>
>After I rode it tonight, I don't think I'm going to drop the clip again (I
>may however try it just for an experiment).  The engine was too hot after
>my
>ride to comfortably remove the spark plug without sizzling my fingers off,
>so I'll wait and look at it tomorrow.  I have a hunch that I maybe running
>a
>bit too ruch on the needle.  We'll see what the spark plug shows.
>
>And so the chase goes on........
>
>Thanks Bryan,
>Rob.
>
>
>
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>subject blank
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______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Cutting the can
Date: 16 Sep 1999 10:48:22 -0500

OK, good news and bad news.
I took the stock exhaust and cut the end off and removed the baffle.I
welded the end back on, didn't want my kids stuffing hot wheels down inside
it. It diffinitely made a difference.I then put in a K&N air filter, a 135
main jet, and cut the top out of the airbox. Damn, what a difference.And
not too loud. Bryan(nolastname)'s DR with the fmf is louder, but not much.
I only cut the pipe because I was not sure which can I wanted to
buy.(Notice this is past tense.) I have now aquired a Honda CR250 and think
that this is the machine that I will be riding for a while. I really like
the dr and the magic button, but I am not sure I want to try and make it
into the bike I want and feel I need. I am a big guy (6'4" 205lbs.)
 planning to start racing cross country this next season in Texas and feel
I need a lighter and more flexable bike. This CR will hopefully not be the
bike I race, but is a stepping stone to what I think I will need. As for
the DR. I am letting a buddy of mine borrow it to ride at the lakes and
piddle around on. In exchange, I get to ride one of his 5 Harley's when
ever I get the itch for a road ride. I will stay on the list just for the
fact of knowing that there is an enormous amount of people here who are
very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. You never know. I just might buy
the new DR400 when it comes out, and this list is the best place to talk
about it.
Dave in Ft Worth.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 9:21:59 PDT

> Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
> the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
> a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
> signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
> smashing front signals?

  I haven't smashed one yet.  I was involved in a head on crash with
another bike where I figure the terminal velocity was about 50 mph.
His clutch lever broke when it went through my middle finger and I
think my handlebars got bent (I can't really tell).  I went over the
bars because of the sudden stop and my bike did a complete flip and
landed on its right side.  There wasn't one piece of plastic that
didn't get scratched (including the front number plate) yet the stock
rear turn signals survived (the right one came apart, but I just put
it back together).

  The stock front turn signals didn't even get scratched.  Their
placement is excellent in my opinion.  I go through brush, fall down
(a lot) and I haven't even scratched them yet.  I don't think they
need replacing so buying the Acerbis ones with indicators built in is
a waste of money to me.

  I have left on the stock front turn signals and I installed aluminum
bark busters.  I cut the stock plastic brush guards that come with the
bike and mounted them on the bark busters.  It looks just like stock
to the casual observer.  When you take a closer look you can see the
bark busters.  By putting those on I've saved braking levers, tearing
grips and maybe even bending handlebars.  It also seems to make the
handlebar set up a bit more stiffer (although I have no proof of
that).

--
Scott Aldrich

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 11:01:37 -0600



>Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
>the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
>a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
>signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
>smashing front signals?


I failed to install Acerbis guards in my stock '97 handlebars as they are plugged in
the end with a sold gob of steel. I tried drilling them with my hole hawg and ended
up going through the side of the handlebar wall. So, I've been waiting for the time
to put on new bars...

Kurt


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 15:56:35 EDT

I just ordered the Acerbis hand guards w/lights.  While waiting for them to
come in,  I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  Jack
DR350SE 1997

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 16 Sep 1999 13:21:50 -0700

Bryan Nolastname wrote:
>
> >How's it going Bryan?
>  If
> you get the T-handle you will need to cut off about 1/3" of the little
> magnesium housing that shrouds access to the existing air screw....its very
> quick & easy to do.  You must do this to allow for clearance of the extended
> T-handle over the starter.
>
> Regarding ill effects of the disc-type exhausts (heat melting rear fender),
> this is not a proplem w/ the FMFmegamax2....cause it has a little shield
> that diverts exhaust gas from hitting the fender at its closest point.  Now
> I DO have a slightly discolored part on the fender (which washes off w/ some
> scrubbing), but no heat stress whatsoever.  I think the SuperTrapps that I
> have seen on other bikes have NOT had such a diverter shield, and probably
> would result in some melting.
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>

Brian and all,
    I have a Supertrapp on my BMW R100GSPD that has a diverter,
but it still gets some flow around it. It has carboned up my
fender stay, but not too bad. That bike needed the 'Trap,
but I won't put one on my DR350SE due to the noise. A lot of
my use for the DR will be slower riding than with the BMW,
and that would make the noise more noticeable.
    Can someone tell me where the Scott T-handle is available?
Sounds like a good thing to have.
Thanks,
    Wayne Marsula'
    Escondido, CA

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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 16 Sep 1999 17:53:12 -0400 (EDT)

Okay guys that's enough.Lab tests?spelling bees?Whats next thermal
exhaust retraction factors?(dont have any clue what that means).I just
figured the HOT exhuast gases are carried away from the motor via the
pipe regardless of anything.Reducing heat radiation from the pipe may
help it run a little cooler and then again may not.I also do not
remember Tony claiming his victorys due to this wrapping.If it did make
the motor run hotter I do not think it would be used by guys racing cars
down a drag strip.Heat =hp loss not many fans of this at a track.The
motors are liquid cooled in a car you say.All the more reason you would
want to keep the air that cools the dr around its head down as well.This
whole thing was just an idea i'm sure most are sitting at home reading
and laughing at all this anyway.Later on guys.


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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350)
Date: 16 Sep 1999 17:59:38 -0400


Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Bryan Nolastname wrote:>
> >How's it going Bryan?
>  If
> you get the T-handle you will need to cut off about 1/3" of the little
> magnesium housing that shrouds access to the existing air screw....its very
> quick & easy to do.  You must do this to allow for clearance of the extended
> T-handle over the starter.
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>

Brian and all,
    I have a Supertrapp on my BMW R100GSPD that has a diverter,
but it still gets some flow around it. It has carboned up my
fender stay, but not too bad. That bike needed the 'Trap,
but I won't put one on my DR350SE due to the noise. A lot of
my use for the DR will be slower riding than with the BMW,
and that would make the noise more noticeable.
    Can someone tell me where the Scott T-handle is available?
Sounds like a good thing to have.
Thanks,
    Wayne Marsula'
    Escondido, CA

Wayne,
       Thumper Racing carries the T-Handle fuel/air adjusters and prices them at $16.00 per.  Their order line phone is:  1-800-259-5186

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Thumper...
Date: 16 Sep 1999 16:08:32 -0600

I just placed an order with the Thumper in anticipation of installing Jesse's Vortex
airbox.

There standard recommendation for my setup with a stock exhaust is up 1 on the main
jet and up 1 on the pilot. On my SEV that means going from a 127.5 to 130 on the main
and 37.5 to 40 on the pilot. I told them that the list's experience has been that the
40 pilot is too rich. I don't have the impression that I changed their mind FWIW.

I ended up ordering the 130, 132.5, 135, and 137.5. I figured I'll be leaner than
Brian's 140 because he's running an exhaust and lives in TX and I live at 5,000 in
Salt Lake City with a stocker.

There will be a complete review in the next issue of Dual Sport News in the
November/December issue. Along with a review of the Big Gun exhaust (on a KLR).  BTW,
the DR gets regular press in Dual Sport News in Eden Carl's technical corner. If you
have an interest here is subscription info.

Shameless plug follows:

Dual Sport News is available for an annual subscription rate of $15 (US)
or $20 outside of the US. To renew or start a new subscription send your check
made out to "DSN" to:

Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News
476 E South Temple
PMB 467
Salt Lake City,UT  84111-1303

Please include the following: Name, Address, City, State, Zip, Phone, Email.

Thanks very much,

Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News


BTW, back issues are available for $3 per issue. There are 5 issues of
Dual Sport News and 14 issues of Kawasaki 650 Dual Sport News. The DR350SEY was the
feature bike review in the March/April 1999 issue, while the July/August issue had a
report on the DR350S a light adventure tourer.


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 16 Sep 1999 19:14:46 EDT

In a message dated 9/16/99 4:54:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Okay guys that's enough.Lab tests?spelling bees?Whats next thermal
 exhaust retraction factors?(dont have any clue what that means).I just
 figured the HOT exhuast gases are carried away from the motor via the
 pipe regardless of anything.

Correct as far as the gasses go but the conductive heat of the pipe is
definitely felt by the head.  Think of the pipe as an integral part of the
engines cooling system.  It removes gases and also acts as a heat sink.  In a
way it is like a spark plug.  The heat range of a plug is determined by its
ability to disperse the heat it encounters in the combustion chamber.  A plug
is engineered by the factory to a specific heat range.


Reducing heat radiation from the pipe may
help it run a little cooler and then again may not.

That's why I questioned the evidence to support wrapping in the first place.

I also do not
 remember Tony claiming his victorys due to this wrapping.

Tony's exact words............"i have used the set-up for about 3 years on
my DR350se i have been in the top five places in all the enduros i have raced
the pasted two years on a trail bike"

If it did make
 the motor run hotter I do not think it would be used by guys racing cars
 down a drag strip.Heat =hp loss not many fans of this at a track.

Actually, horsepower increases with heat until thermal dynamically induced
friction losses set in and begin to rob horsepower and eventually lead to
piston seizure or a myriad of other engine problems.

The
 motors are liquid cooled in a car you say.All the more reason you would
 want to keep the air that cools the dr around its head down as well.

This brings me back to my original point...does it keep the exhaust port area
cooler and has that been proven?

This
 whole thing was just an idea i'm sure most are sitting at home reading
 and laughing at all this anyway.Later on guys.

If you will remember, my original response to your thought that maybe the
wrapping was a silly idea was a simple "yep" with a smiley face.

In my honest opinion, I don't think the wrapping will make a measurable
difference one way or the other on an unfaired engine such as the DR. However
I think pipe wrapping falls into the same category as the Vespa and the fat
girl.  (chill out you politically correct types...I'm packing some extra
pounds myself...no maliciousness intended! : )

Have a good day,
Doug

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Cutting the can
Date: 16 Sep 1999 16:43:55 PDT

OOOooohhhh NNNOOOOooo!!!  Dave's gone to the dark side!!!!

I've ridden w/ Dave a few times around the Dallas area, & he's hell on
wheels!  I'm sure he'll do good in competition.

For all you guys considering buying $200+ exhausts....consider doing what
Dave did described below.  I cut up the stock can on a XR650L I had, and it
worked great!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
>To: "Dr350 (E-mail)" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Cutting the can
>Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 10:48:22 -0500
>
>OK, good news and bad news.
>I took the stock exhaust and cut the end off and removed the baffle.I
>welded the end back on, didn't want my kids stuffing hot wheels down inside
>it. It diffinitely made a difference.I then put in a K&N air filter, a 135
>main jet, and cut the top out of the airbox. Damn, what a difference.And
>not too loud. Bryan(nolastname)'s DR with the fmf is louder, but not much.
>I only cut the pipe because I was not sure which can I wanted to
>buy.(Notice this is past tense.) I have now aquired a Honda CR250 and think
>that this is the machine that I will be riding for a while. I really like
>the dr and the magic button, but I am not sure I want to try and make it
>into the bike I want and feel I need. I am a big guy (6'4" 205lbs.)
>  planning to start racing cross country this next season in Texas and feel
>I need a lighter and more flexable bike. This CR will hopefully not be the
>bike I race, but is a stepping stone to what I think I will need. As for
>the DR. I am letting a buddy of mine borrow it to ride at the lakes and
>piddle around on. In exchange, I get to ride one of his 5 Harley's when
>ever I get the itch for a road ride. I will stay on the list just for the
>fact of knowing that there is an enormous amount of people here who are
>very knowledgeable, friendly, and helpful. You never know. I just might buy
>the new DR400 when it comes out, and this list is the best place to talk
>about it.
>Dave in Ft Worth.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 16 Sep 1999 16:49:25 PDT

T-handle is made by Scott, but available cheaper from Thumper Racing @
800-259-5186, part# TL-FASA, cost $16+$7 S&H for all orders under $50.
Everyone tell them they need a website!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR 350SE


>From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
>To: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
>CC: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
>Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:21:50 -0700
>
>Bryan Nolastname wrote:
> >
> > >How's it going Bryan?
> >  If
> > you get the T-handle you will need to cut off about 1/3" of the little
> > magnesium housing that shrouds access to the existing air screw....its
>very
> > quick & easy to do.  You must do this to allow for clearance of the
>extended
> > T-handle over the starter.
> >
> > Regarding ill effects of the disc-type exhausts (heat melting rear
>fender),
> > this is not a proplem w/ the FMFmegamax2....cause it has a little shield
> > that diverts exhaust gas from hitting the fender at its closest point.
>Now
> > I DO have a slightly discolored part on the fender (which washes off w/
>some
> > scrubbing), but no heat stress whatsoever.  I think the SuperTrapps that
>I
> > have seen on other bikes have NOT had such a diverter shield, and
>probably
> > would result in some melting.
> >
> > Bryan in Dallas
> > 95 DR350SE
> >
>
>Brian and all,
>    I have a Supertrapp on my BMW R100GSPD that has a diverter,
>but it still gets some flow around it. It has carboned up my
>fender stay, but not too bad. That bike needed the 'Trap,
>but I won't put one on my DR350SE due to the noise. A lot of
>my use for the DR will be slower riding than with the BMW,
>and that would make the noise more noticeable.
>    Can someone tell me where the Scott T-handle is available?
>Sounds like a good thing to have.
>Thanks,
>    Wayne Marsula'
>    Escondido, CA

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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: Re: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 16 Sep 1999 20:26:40 -0400 (EDT)

piont taken


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From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 16 Sep 1999 22:29:26 -0400 (EDT)

>Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 18:13:51
>To: [e-mail] (John)
>From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: (dr350) exhuast
>
>I think cannondale's 400cc engineers may have a say a interesting word or two.
>The engine is designed backwards. Intake in the front, exhaust in the rear.
>
>Kevin 98 ES
>
>At 05:53 PM 9/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>Okay guys that's enough.Lab tests?spelling bees?Whats next thermal
>>exhaust retraction factors?(dont have any clue what that means).I just
>>figured the HOT exhuast gases are carried away from the motor via the
>>pipe regardless of anything.Reducing heat radiation from the pipe may
>>help it run a little cooler and then again may not.I also do not
>>remember Tony claiming his victorys due to this wrapping.If it did make
>>the motor run hotter I do not think it would be used by guys racing cars
>>down a drag strip.Heat =hp loss not many fans of this at a track.The
>>motors are liquid cooled in a car you say.All the more reason you would
>>want to keep the air that cools the dr around its head down as well.This
>>whole thing was just an idea i'm sure most are sitting at home reading
>>and laughing at all this anyway.Later on guys.
>>
>>
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>>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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subject blank
>>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>>
>>
>


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List question..
Date: 16 Sep 1999 20:45:37 -0600

OK, so here is a question that is just waiting for its time to
come...when the DR400 hits the market do we want to welcome discussions
here? What about changing the list orientation to include all DR's...I
imagine that 350 and 650 and 400 discussions could occur threaded
alongside one another. Meanwhile, we can all contribute to non-model
specific questions....

Thoughts?

Kurt


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 16 Sep 1999 22:48:19 EDT

Tom,

I'm glad you brought up the 3 points in favor of the DR350.  Your first point
is the absolute reason that I prefer the 350 over my XR650L.  That little 350
is a jewel when it comes to smoothness.  Just enough engine vibes to let you
know that you are riding an internal combustion powered vehicle.  Perfect!
One of my biggest fears is that the new breed 400's will loose that
smoothness.  That and too tall a seat height would be a real step backwards
in development.

Does anyone know what can be expected from an increase to Thumpers 435 kit?
I seem to recall that it is very reliable if all you do is resleeve to 435
and avoid any additional performance mods.

Thanks,
Doug

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 16 Sep 1999 23:05:37 -0400

Doug,  The 435 will give a noticable engine vibration about 5800 RPM. The cure is gear it up to use the additional tork and run it above or below that RPM.  Other than that, the Thumper 435 kit is very reliable and the increased low and mid is worth the price of admission.

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

[e-mail] wrote:
> Tom,
I'm glad you brought up the 3 points in favor of the DR350.  Your first point
is the absolute reason that I prefer the 350 over my XR650L.  That little 350
is a jewel when it comes to smoothness.  Just enough engine vibes to let you
know that you are riding an internal combustion powered vehicle.  Perfect!
One of my biggest fears is that the new breed 400's will loose that
smoothness.  That and too tall a seat height would be a real step backwards
in development.

Does anyone know what can be expected from an increase to Thumpers 435 kit?
I seem to recall that it is very reliable if all you do is resleeve to 435
and avoid any additional performance mods.

Thanks,
Doug


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) List question.. NDR
Date: 16 Sep 1999 23:12:41 EDT

[e-mail] writes:

>What about changing the list orientation to include all DR's...I
>imagine that 350 and 650 and 400 discussions could occur threaded
>alongside one another. Meanwhile, we can all contribute to non-model
>specific questions....


Why not? We already let those 435 and 441 guys in here.
And they all claim to be mean mothers...

CA Truk   s - e - x    b - a - b - y !

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Looking for DR350 Specs
Date: 16 Sep 1999 21:04:12 -0700

I am looking to buy a DR350, but since I can only spend a maximum of $2000,
it will probably be an older model. Can anyone tell me where I can find
specifications such as weight, features, horsepower, etc. for them.

        Thanks,

        Jeff

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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 22:10:07 -0600

I have crashed a zillion times and never damaged the front turn signals.  In
fact, I think the ones mounted in the hand guards may be more vulnerable.
The rear ones have been replaced a number of times, but aren't too
expensive.

Now, I do think the hand guards with turn signals built in are very cool
looking.  TW



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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 16 Sep 1999 22:16:33 -0600

>Does anyone know what can be expected [in terms of vibration] from an
increase to Thumpers 435 kit?

I did notice a very slight increase in vibration when I increased to 400cc
(10.5:1 compression piston), with the Cycle Gear kit.  I wouldn't be
surprized if the 435 kit did the same.  TW




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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Looking for DR350 Specs
Date: 16 Sep 1999 21:35:58 -0700

HI Jeff, Advertized weight is 248lbs dry, I think one of the late dirt bike or dirt rider
magazines checked a bunch of bikes and I think I remember them saying it really weighed
273lbs. HP is around 27 for the stone stock one but that is easily fixed. 6 speeds and
properly spaced. I picked up a 96 for 2000 it was a little rough but for 300$ made it just
fine. thats the beauty of the DR they can be picked up for reasonable $
 and be fixed fairly inexpensively. you get more bang for your buck. Hope this helps

Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> I am looking to buy a DR350, but since I can only spend a maximum of $2000,
> it will probably be an older model. Can anyone tell me where I can find
> specifications such as weight, features, horsepower, etc. for them.
>
>                 Thanks,
>
>                 Jeff
>
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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 16 Sep 1999 21:49:08 -0700

HI guys, my 435 is as smooth can be and I have a megacycle cam the mild one also. Maybe I am
just use to it . Its sure fun to ride though, I am going on 5 years since I did the kit and It
still scares me some times. I did a punchoff with a 88 KTM twice in a row on a straight strech
in fourth gear and walked away from it both times. I think it was just that the KTM [2stroke}
just couldnt hook up like maybe to much power all at once.

Jesse

Tom Warr wrote:

> >Does anyone know what can be expected [in terms of vibration] from an
> increase to Thumpers 435 kit?
>
> I did notice a very slight increase in vibration when I increased to 400cc
> (10.5:1 compression piston), with the Cycle Gear kit.  I wouldn't be
> surprized if the 435 kit did the same.  TW
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> for info.
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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 16 Sep 1999 23:35:48 -0700

Jack:

Unlike the other writers, I have broken every turn signal ,front and rear,
offered the dual sport world.  EXCEPT - my Acerbis rally brush guards with
turn signals built in.  Also, I now have flush mounts on the rear and have
never broken them.  They look awesome on a DR.  However, I have lost a lot
of bulbs.  You will see what I mean when you install them.  The other
writer is correct about stock bars.  They have a solid core welded (?) into
the center, so forget about mounting the Acerbis on those.  I installed
alumilite 7000's on mine and had no problem.  Alumilite's are pretty
spendy, much less expensive bars will do the trick.  The DR bars are junk
anyway. go after market and ask around about the bend ( I have CR -  Hi on
all three of my bikes )

As far as function, they are better, much better than the stock roost
deflectors, but nowhere near the rally pro's which have the aluminum inner
guard.  I have the Rally Pro's with mirrors, yes mirrors, mounted inside
them on  my street legal '99 KTM 380 exc, and they are bullet proof (
except for maybe a magnum!).

p.s.  don't over-torque the end pieces that insert into the bars.  They
strip easy.
Dave Strickler
[e-mail]


-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, September 16, 1999 12:57 PM

I just ordered the Acerbis hand guards w/lights.  While waiting for them to
come in,  I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them.  Jack
DR350SE 1997

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) More on the best dual sport available`
Date: 17 Sep 1999 08:06:36 EDT

In a message dated 9/16/99 11:58:32 PM Central Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< HI guys, my 435 is as smooth can be and I have a megacycle cam the mild
one also. >>


Jesse,  In building hopped up street bike engines I've noticed the addition
of a hotter cam usually helps lessen vibrations.  They tend to bring
compression back to a more tolerable level (I think)

I just don't want to lessen the reliability of my DR, but it sounds like you
are having good luck.  Maybe just staying away from high rpm's on the 435
works.

Thanks,
Doug

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no DR)Arkansas ride from Dallas Nov. 15-16
Date: 17 Sep 1999 05:30:19 PDT

Hey Dave M. & anyone else interested....

On Nov 15-16 (a Mon/Tue), I'll be trailering my DR up to Mena, AR.  I know
of a nice clean cheap $20 motel in town I'll be staying at.  Plan to ride
the two areas mentioned at this URL:
http://www.ualr.edu/~mkhudson/dirtbike.htm

I'll be pulling out of Dallas very early Monday morn, will be unloaded in
Mena by noon, and go ride one of the two places.  Next morning ride the
other, & be back in Dallas Tuesday eve.

I've got room in my 5X8 trailer for 2 more bikes in addition to mine.  Its
about a 4.5 hr drive to Mena.  If anyone wants to go, I'd consider changing
dates to any weekdays in mid-Nov.

It will be peak foliage time up there (some of the prettiest fall colors in
the US), & theres alot of tourist traffic on weekends....thats why I wanna
go during week.  Should be cool but not cold.

Dave, you gonna show me what you can do on that new CR250?!?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (no DR)Arkansas ride from Dallas Nov. 15-16
Date: 17 Sep 1999 06:12:54 PDT

Sorry guys...got my dates mixed up.  Its OCTOBER 18-19 (also a Mon-Tue) that
I plan on going to AR.  The November dates I mentioned I'm taking off to
paint the interior of my house....you are all welcome to help with that as
well! :)

Late Oct should still be prime fall color viewing up there according to some
locals I've talked to...they expect the change to come early due to dry
weather.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) (no DR)Arkansas ride from Dallas Nov. 15-16
>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 05:30:19 PDT
>
>Hey Dave M. & anyone else interested....
>
>On Nov 15-16 (a Mon/Tue), I'll be trailering my DR up to Mena, AR.  I know
>of a nice clean cheap $20 motel in town I'll be staying at.  Plan to ride
>the two areas mentioned at this URL:
>http://www.ualr.edu/~mkhudson/dirtbike.htm
>
>I'll be pulling out of Dallas very early Monday morn, will be unloaded in
>Mena by noon, and go ride one of the two places.  Next morning ride the
>other, & be back in Dallas Tuesday eve.
>
>I've got room in my 5X8 trailer for 2 more bikes in addition to mine.  Its
>about a 4.5 hr drive to Mena.  If anyone wants to go, I'd consider changing
>dates to any weekdays in mid-Nov.
>
>It will be peak foliage time up there (some of the prettiest fall colors in
>the US), & theres alot of tourist traffic on weekends....thats why I wanna
>go during week.  Should be cool but not cold.
>
>Dave, you gonna show me what you can do on that new CR250?!?
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>
>______________________________________________________
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>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Discussions
Date: 17 Sep 1999 11:33:58 EDT

Kurt,

I currently own a DR650 and agree that having discussions for all classes of DR's would be great.  I enjoy reading about all the solutions for the 350's as some can be transferred to the 650 or other ideas are generated.

Thanks for the great list!

Scott Bower
Redondo Beach, CA
98 DR 650

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From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Discussions
Date: 17 Sep 1999 14:37:55 -0400

There are already a good amount of emails generated each day.  I think it would be better to have separate list serves for different cc's to which people can individually subscribe.  This way, for those of us who are just
interested in our own model don't have to have our inboxes cluttered with stuff to erase.

[e-mail] wrote:

> Kurt,
>
> I currently own a DR650 and agree that having discussions for all classes of DR's would be great.  I enjoy reading about all the solutions for the 350's as some can be transferred to the 650 or other ideas are generated.
>
> Thanks for the great list!
>
> Scott Bower
> Redondo Beach, CA
> 98 DR 650
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> for info.
> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
> Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Discussions
Date: 17 Sep 1999 13:29:05 -0600

How about putting DR650 in the subject line for posts that only deal with
DR650's and then people can filter these msgs to their trash file if they
have no interest?

As a note the KLR650 list really deals with the KLR250, Kawi Sherpa, and
KLX650 - at this point there have been no major problems with too many posts
for bikes other than the KLR650.

Cheers,

Vik

-----Original Message-----


>There are already a good amount of emails generated each day.  I think it
would be better to have separate list serves for different cc's to which
people can individually subscribe.  This way, for those of us who are just
>interested in our own model don't have to have our inboxes cluttered with
stuff to erase.
>
>[e-mail] wrote:
>
>> Kurt,
>>
>> I currently own a DR650 and agree that having discussions for all classes
of DR's would be great.  I enjoy reading about all the solutions for the
350's as some can be transferred to the 650 or other ideas are generated.
>>
>> Thanks for the great list!
>>
>> Scott Bower
>> Redondo Beach, CA
>> 98 DR 650
>>
>> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>> for info.
>> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>> Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>for info.
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Discussions
Date: 17 Sep 1999 14:24:33 -0700

Vik Banerjee wrote:
>
> How about putting DR650 in the subject line for posts that only deal with
> DR650's and then people can filter these msgs to their trash file if they
> have no interest?
>
> As a note the KLR650 list really deals with the KLR250, Kawi Sherpa, and
> KLX650 - at this point there have been no major problems with too many posts
> for bikes other than the KLR650.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Vik
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Heston LaMar <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
> Date: Friday, September 17, 1999 12:44 PM
> Subject: Re: (dr350) Discussions
>
> >There are already a good amount of emails generated each day.  I think it
> would be better to have separate list serves for different cc's to which
> people can individually subscribe.  This way, for those of us who are just
> >interested in our own model don't have to have our inboxes cluttered with
> stuff to erase.
> >
> >[e-mail] wrote:
> >
> >> Kurt,
> >>
> >> I currently own a DR650 and agree that having discussions for all classes
> of DR's would be great.  I enjoy reading about all the solutions for the
> 350's as some can be transferred to the 650 or other ideas are generated.
> >>
> >> Thanks for the great list!
> >>
> >> Scott Bower
> >> Redondo Beach, CA
> >> 98 DR 650
> >>
> >> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> >> for info.
> >> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
> >> Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >
> >
> >Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> >for info.
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> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
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>
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Vik,
    A similar system was tried on one of the BMW lists, but to
no avail. Most people are to lazy to bother doing something
to help others just a little bit.
Wayne

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Discussions
Date: 17 Sep 1999 15:25:10 -0600

>Vik,
> A similar system was tried on one of the BMW lists, but to
>no avail. Most people are to lazy to bother doing something
>to help others just a little bit.
>Wayne


Wayne,

Hey if they are too lazy to set up a filter that takes 15 seconds then
they'll be to lazy to complain and I'll be too lazy to care...=)

Cheers,

Vik



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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis hand guards w/ lights
Date: 17 Sep 1999 17:32:34 -0700

Heston:

I have put flush mounts on the sides of the rear fender of my DR.  I have
never broken these.  Your local motorcycle shop should be able to guide
you.  I think the manu. is Emgo (very cheap).  I went through four sets of
signals in the front before I put on the Acerbis and to date no breakage.
The Acerbis look great, and work better than stock in crashes.  Both the
signals hold up better, and the brush guards protect your hands better than
stock.

Please remember front a previous response, you can't put these on stock
bars!

Dave Strickler '96 DR350SE
[e-mail]


-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, September 16, 1999 7:09 AM

Just got a 94 350SE.  Gonna put hand guards on it.  Should I fork out
the extra $$ for the Acerbis w/ built in signals?  It would seem that in
a crash that the handle bars would sufficiently protect the normal front
signals, unlike the well-exposed rear ones.  Anyone with exp. in
smashing front signals?

Heston
Winston-Salem, NC (near NC mountains)


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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale
Date: 17 Sep 1999 17:46:16 -0700



For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals)  and much much more
                Great Looking Great Running! In Reno Nevada.  $2600.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]



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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.
Date: 17 Sep 1999 22:15:35 -0700



Doug,

I wish I had that tool installed today when I worked on my bike.  I raised
my needle clip up a notch because the plug was black.  However, I could only
make a guess at the air screw adjustment while the carb was off.  My
airscrew is out two turns now.

I wish I could have adjusted it further without taking the carb off again
but I guess I'll do that tomorrow.

Thanks Doug,
Rob.


>My buddy installed the t-handle on his carb and it definetly got rid of his
>hesitation.  I have one that I haven't installed yet but intend to very
soon.
> The installation is very easy.  You remove the existing screw, then using
a
>flat file, you file the screw housing down slightly for clearance, then
>simply screw the t-handle in place of the old screw.  The t-handle stays in
>place and allows trail side adjustment of the enrichner circuit.  Most
>individuals report seating the t-handle screw then backing it out 2 turns
to
>get rid of the hesitation.
>
>Good luck
>Doug
>


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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.  (Still a major bummer)
Date: 17 Sep 1999 22:26:21 -0700


>Doin' good Rob!  Finally getting cooler here in Dallas...much more fun
>riding!

Excellent, the temperature here is cooling off a bit too.  The real riding
season is about to begin.

>The pilot jet needle valve (yes, this is the air screw adjustment thing on
>bottom of carb you've already drilled out to be able to adjust) controls
the
>fuel flow thru the pilot valve.  The T-handle is beneficial because it
>replaces the stock air screw with one that extends past the bottom of the
>carb w/ a little "T" so its easy to adjust without taking off (or at least
>loosening/rotating) the carb to get to the stock airscrew thats up in there
>a ways.

This sounds like a great tool.  I worked on my bike today and adjusted the
airscrew and raised the needle clip a notch.  I'm fighting an uphill battle
it seems.  My hesitation is between 3600-3900 rpm's now.  I have the
airscrew out two turns now and the needle on the 4th notch down.  I can't
beat this thing.  The hesitation is still there.  It gets less and less but
the damn thing won't go away.

At this point I don't know if I'm compensating or actually solving the
problem.

Tomorrow, the carb is coming off for the buzzillionth time and I'm gonna
soak it in solvent to make sure no debris is caught up anywhere.  My gut
feeling tells me it won't make a difference.  Perhaps I should take the
airscrew out another turn or so.  I'm beginning to take desperation shots at
the dart board which is exactly what I didn't want to do.

Thanks Bryan,
Rob.





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From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation.  (Still a major bummer)
Date: 18 Sep 1999 10:29:35 -0700



How's it going?

Yeah, I put the stock pilot jet back a couple days ago.  I think this helped
my hesitation problem.  My needle clip is also on the 4th groove down from
top.

I'm taking the carb off again today, so I will adjust the airscrew further.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Rob.

>Hey,
>
>I am a lurker on this list,  I have been around for a while though.  I had
>the same problem on my DR for a while.  I think I remember you saying you
>put a larger pilot jet in the carb,  a 40 right?  Well, if you did,  take
it
>out and put the 37.5 back in.  the only jetting they got right at the
>factory was that.   Then take and adjust the air screw to 2.5-3 turns out
>and test it.  I dont know what else you did,  or even if I am helping,  but
>I do have some experience with  these problems,  I learned the hard way.
>PJ
>



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) List question..
Date: 18 Sep 1999 16:09:29 EDT

In a message dated 9/16/99 9:47:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< OK, so here is a question that is just waiting for its time to
 come...when the DR400 hits the market do we want to welcome discussions
 here?  >>


 I thnk by expanding the list and bringing more DR owners into the fold we
only help ourselves. Maybe the after market might start paying a little more
attention to the DR if they could see how many of us there are and how loyal
we are to our crusty little machines. As to cluttering our mail boxes for me
that does not seem a problem. How many letters are posted every month on what
is the best dual sport tire (just an example)? I ride a dirt only DR so I'm
not interested in that line of conversation. The solution is to just delete
and move on. The main thrust of this list is for people to share experience
and ideas on how to make our bikes better. I don't see how more input can
hurt.


Mike A.
Nashville

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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) FMF megamax
Date: 18 Sep 1999 17:22:31 -0400 (EDT)

Is there a gasket sold to fit this muffler to our head pipe?Also the
clip position is up leaner and down richer or vise-versa?The t-handle is
it true more than 2 turns out is useless?Can someone tell me the purpose
of the pilot,main,and jxneedles>School me in carb 101 give me a basic
run down.Thanks to whoever takes the time to answer.


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) List question..
Date: 18 Sep 1999 19:26:10 -0400

Here, here!

R
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 9/16/99 9:47:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< OK, so here is a question that is just waiting for its time to
> come...when the DR400 hits the market do we want to welcome discussions
> here?  >>
>
>
> I thnk by expanding the list and bringing more DR owners into the fold we
>only help ourselves. Maybe the after market might start paying a little
more
>attention to the DR if they could see how many of us there are and how
loyal
>we are to our crusty little machines. As to cluttering our mail boxes for
me
>that does not seem a problem. How many letters are posted every month on
what
>is the best dual sport tire (just an example)? I ride a dirt only DR so I'm
>not interested in that line of conversation. The solution is to just delete
>and move on. The main thrust of this list is for people to share experience
>and ideas on how to make our bikes better. I don't see how more input can
>hurt.
>
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>for info.
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) FMF megamax
Date: 18 Sep 1999 16:57:55 PDT

>From: [e-mail] (John)

>Is there a gasket sold to fit this muffler to our head pipe?
Dont need one.

>Also the clip position is up leaner and down richer or vise-versa?
There are 5 positions to place the clip on the JX needle (the stock DRS
needle is non-adjustable).  If you have the clip in the LOWEST position from
top, you have RAISED the needle to its max fuel flow position.  Lowering
clip=raising needle, & vice-versa.

>The t-handle is it true more than 2 turns out is useless?
Basically, yes.  Here is a simple illustration: imagine you have your little
finger in a water hose.  If you really jam it in there, you can stop the
water; as you slowly pull it out, more & more water pushes around your
finger, until you have your finger all the way out, then the water is
flowing freely, and you have no effect on it whether your finger is 1mm or
1foot away from the end of the water falling from the  hose.  So, when you
have the pilot valve X turns out (X is probably between 2 - 2.5 turns out,
but not exactly 2 turns), the further you turn out past there is irrelevant,
cause the tip of the needle isn't affecting the flow of fuel going thru the
pilot jet.  They say that if you have to go out more than about 2.5 turns on
the pilot on the DRS, you need to move up to the next size pilot
jet....BUT...myself & others on this list have found that the next size up
(40) is too big.

>Can someone tell me the purpose of the pilot,main,and >jxneedles?  School
>me in carb 101 give me a basic
>run down.

For an excellent "basic carb course" see the following URL:
http://members.aol.com/roundrl/CVK40.html
The site is about the same type (CV) of carb we have on our DRS's, and an
excellent diagram that explains the relationship between pilot, needle, &
main jet functions, & how they are inter-related.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)
Date: 18 Sep 1999 17:13:40 PDT

Sorry guys, the correct URL is:
http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
I just checked it out.  I'd forgotten what a damn good site that is!
Bryan

>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) FMF megamax
>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:57:55 PDT
>
>>From: [e-mail] (John)
>
>>Is there a gasket sold to fit this muffler to our head pipe?
>Dont need one.
>
>>Also the clip position is up leaner and down richer or vise-versa?
>There are 5 positions to place the clip on the JX needle (the stock DRS
>needle is non-adjustable).  If you have the clip in the LOWEST position
>from
>top, you have RAISED the needle to its max fuel flow position.  Lowering
>clip=raising needle, & vice-versa.
>
>>The t-handle is it true more than 2 turns out is useless?
>Basically, yes.  Here is a simple illustration: imagine you have your
>little
>finger in a water hose.  If you really jam it in there, you can stop the
>water; as you slowly pull it out, more & more water pushes around your
>finger, until you have your finger all the way out, then the water is
>flowing freely, and you have no effect on it whether your finger is 1mm or
>1foot away from the end of the water falling from the  hose.  So, when you
>have the pilot valve X turns out (X is probably between 2 - 2.5 turns out,
>but not exactly 2 turns), the further you turn out past there is
>irrelevant,
>cause the tip of the needle isn't affecting the flow of fuel going thru the
>pilot jet.  They say that if you have to go out more than about 2.5 turns
>on
>the pilot on the DRS, you need to move up to the next size pilot
>jet....BUT...myself & others on this list have found that the next size up
>(40) is too big.
>
>>Can someone tell me the purpose of the pilot,main,and >jxneedles?  School
>>me in carb 101 give me a basic
>>run down.
>
>For an excellent "basic carb course" see the following URL:
>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>The site is about the same type (CV) of carb we have on our DRS's, and an
>excellent diagram that explains the relationship between pilot, needle, &
>main jet functions, & how they are inter-related.
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Amsterdam Dual Sport ride
Date: 18 Sep 1999 21:00:20 -0500

I just got back from 1 day of the Amsterdam Dual Sport Ride.  It was an
excellent experience with very interesting trails.  About 25+ miles of
the 80+ mile ride was relatively tight single track trails.  The rest was
jeep roads and dirt roads.  Very fun and challenging (I finished second
to last - I beat the sweep bike.  I now have a new respect for what
EXPERIENCE means.

I was surprised by the fact that nearly all of the 25+ riders had full
knobbies.  If those tires on the Huskies were street legal they were a
mutation.  What am I doing with a Pirelli MT 21 on the rear and stock
tire on the front?  I guess I have a death wish.  Well, that's gonna
change.  I am changing to knobbies.  I know this question has been asked
ad nauseum but......  what is the largest knobbie that will fit on the
front - non street legal - I want the fattest, meanest, most aggressive
deep mud knobbie available.  I would change the back tire too but I'm to
cheap to throw away a $75 Pirelli that's still got good tread on it.

Oh, and I immediately tore off the licence plate holder and chain guard.
Now I'm catching on!

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, FL  -  '92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Amsterdam Dual Sport ride
Date: 18 Sep 1999 23:01:15 -0400


charles w vokac <[e-mail]> wrote:
> I just got back from 1 day of the Amsterdam Dual Sport Ride.  It was anexcellent experience with very interesting trails.  About 25+ miles of
the 80+ mile ride was relatively tight single track trails.  The rest was
jeep roads and dirt roads.  Very fun and challenging (I finished second
to last - I beat the sweep bike.  I now have a new respect for what
EXPERIENCE means.

I was surprised by the fact that nearly all of the 25+ riders had full
knobbies.  If those tires on the Huskies were street legal they were a
mutation.  What am I doing with a Pirelli MT 21 on the rear and stock
tire on the front?  I guess I have a death wish.  Well, that's gonna
change.  I am changing to knobbies.  I know this question has been asked
ad nauseum but......  what is the largest knobbie that will fit on the
front - non street legal - I want the fattest, meanest, most aggressive
deep mud knobbie available.  I would change the back tire too but I'm to
cheap to throw away a $75 Pirelli that's still got good tread on it.

Oh, and I immediately tore off the licence plate holder and chain guard.
Now I'm catching on!

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, FL  -  '92 DR350S

Chuck;
     Put a Dunlop 756F, 80/100/21 on the front and a Cheng Shin GS856, 500/18 on the rear and thats as good as it gets on the wet terra firma. Pucker up on the asphalt, but you will like that combination in the mud. You do not need a larger tire on the front if the rear is hooking good.  The MT21 is a good tire for asphalt and wears good, but is a joke in the soft stuff; sand, mud, deep gravel, etc. The Dunlop K139 is the best asphalt/dirt front tire we have found if you ride both and is Dot approved, yes, it will rain rut on the pavement.  The bottom line is, to my knowledge no one makes a tire that is good everywhere, and if anyone knows of a good dual sport tire combination, please let us know.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) FMF megamax
Date: 18 Sep 1999 21:35:42 -0600

> For an excellent "basic carb course" see the following URL:
> http://members.aol.com/roundrl/CVK40.html
> The site is about the same type (CV) of carb we have on our DRS's, and an
> excellent diagram that explains the relationship between pilot, needle, &
> main jet functions, & how they are inter-related.
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE

FWIW on the question of expanding the list, Bryan's reference here is an example of how
the cross-fertilization can work. As the article was written by Ron LeMantia for his
KLR...

I appreciate the continuing discussion and would like people to continue to share their
thoughts. Every post either pro or con has been helpful and raised some good points. Vik's
suggestion might work. We have good success on the KLR list with including a filterable
acronym in the subject line. After awhile it just becomes second nature and an act of list
courtesy and culture. So, I can imagine a person could put DR650 in the subject line or
DR350 and we can train everyone to understand what a filter is and how to use it to
promote sanity.

As to the point about how many DR650's there are...Gino Pokluda told me it has been the
most popular dual-sport bike for years. I lean towards opening it up but I don't want it
to be without some consensus. Life is too short for conflict...

Kurt



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Update on my engine hesitation. (Chapter3)
Date: 18 Sep 1999 21:27:07 -0700



>Rob I never did see you say what you had for an exhaust....is it stock?
Do
>you have a nice big hole cut in your airbox & a Unifilter/White/K&N?   W/
>stock exhaust & no airbox mods, you're probably running rich all the way
>around.  Good luck!


Bryan,

Yeah the exhaust is bone stock, however the airbox top has been expanded and
I have one of those dual layered UNI air filters in there.   I turned out
the air screw to 2 3/4 turns today up from 2 turns out previously.  My
hesitation was not affected unfortunately.  I agree with you, I really think
I'm too rich.  The main reason why I think this is because the bike runs
absolutely perfect for the first few minutes.  Then as things warm up, the
hesitation shows.

Now my theory on this is that when the carb is cold, the air moving through
it is cold and more dense.  This would correspond to a leaner condition due
to the high air density (which happens to be just right for the engine).
When everything warms up, tha carb air is less dense and therefore the
mixture becomes too rich.  I am going to raise my needle another notch
-( and see what happens.  The airscrew will also be set back to 1 1/2 turns.

I've run into something very strange here and I can't truly explain it.  But
when I beat this problem, the experience will be a valuable lesson in carb
tuning and performance prediction.  Despite my frustrations during this
episode, I know that it really is not wasted time.

Thanks Bryan,
Rob.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rob Korb" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)
Date: 18 Sep 1999 21:30:46 -0700


Bryan,

Thanks for posting this url.  I'll check it out and see if it can provide me
with some insight on my problem.

Later,
Rob

>Sorry guys, the correct URL is:
>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>I just checked it out.  I'd forgotten what a damn good site that is!
>Bryan



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 19 Sep 1999 06:28:23 -0400 (EDT)

I have narrowed my choices down to 2 for a muffler.The Megamax 2 or a
powercore 5.Does anyone have any info on the powercore 5?I am doing the
liks,spring,jesse's airbox,jx needle,and jets as well all at one time.I
am curious about this powercore5.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)
Date: 19 Sep 1999 15:27:30 +0200

Other web about CVK40

http://www.dualsport.org/cvcarb/index.html
Very good web (4 pages about this carburetor)

Bye


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: domingo 19 de septiembre de 1999 2:14
Asunto: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)


>Sorry guys, the correct URL is:
>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>I just checked it out.  I'd forgotten what a damn good site that is!
>Bryan
>
>>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>>Subject: Re: (dr350) FMF megamax
>>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:57:55 PDT
>>
>>>From: [e-mail] (John)
>>
>>>Is there a gasket sold to fit this muffler to our head pipe?
>>Dont need one.
>>
>>>Also the clip position is up leaner and down richer or vise-versa?
>>There are 5 positions to place the clip on the JX needle (the stock DRS
>>needle is non-adjustable).  If you have the clip in the LOWEST position
>>from
>>top, you have RAISED the needle to its max fuel flow position.  Lowering
>>clip=raising needle, & vice-versa.
>>
>>>The t-handle is it true more than 2 turns out is useless?
>>Basically, yes.  Here is a simple illustration: imagine you have your
>>little
>>finger in a water hose.  If you really jam it in there, you can stop the
>>water; as you slowly pull it out, more & more water pushes around your
>>finger, until you have your finger all the way out, then the water is
>>flowing freely, and you have no effect on it whether your finger is 1mm or
>>1foot away from the end of the water falling from the  hose.  So, when you
>>have the pilot valve X turns out (X is probably between 2 - 2.5 turns out,

>>but not exactly 2 turns), the further you turn out past there is
>>irrelevant,
>>cause the tip of the needle isn't affecting the flow of fuel going thru
the
>>pilot jet.  They say that if you have to go out more than about 2.5 turns
>>on
>>the pilot on the DRS, you need to move up to the next size pilot
>>jet....BUT...myself & others on this list have found that the next size up
>>(40) is too big.
>>
>>>Can someone tell me the purpose of the pilot,main,and >jxneedles?  School
>>>me in carb 101 give me a basic
>>>run down.
>>
>>For an excellent "basic carb course" see the following URL:
>>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>>The site is about the same type (CV) of carb we have on our DRS's, and an
>>excellent diagram that explains the relationship between pilot, needle, &
>>main jet functions, & how they are inter-related.
>>
>>Bryan in Dallas
>>95 DR350SE
>>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>for info.
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)
Date: 19 Sep 1999 15:31:23 +0200

Sorry :)
It is the same page that that of "Bryan Nolastname"
I had not noticed it :(

Bye :)



_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Pablo <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: domingo 19 de septiembre de 1999 15:21
Asunto: RE: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)


>Other web about CVK40
>
>http://www.dualsport.org/cvcarb/index.html
>Very good web (4 pages about this carburetor)
>
>Bye
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>                           SUZUKI DR350SE
>                     "Ride the winds of change"
>
>The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
>-----Mensaje original-----
>De: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
>Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Fecha: domingo 19 de septiembre de 1999 2:14
>Asunto: (dr350) Great URL on "carbs 101" (was-re: FMF megamax)
>
>
>>Sorry guys, the correct URL is:
>>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>>I just checked it out.  I'd forgotten what a damn good site that is!
>>Bryan
>>
>>>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>>>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>>>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>>>Subject: Re: (dr350) FMF megamax
>>>Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:57:55 PDT
>>>
>>>>From: [e-mail] (John)
>>>
>>>>Is there a gasket sold to fit this muffler to our head pipe?
>>>Dont need one.
>>>
>>>>Also the clip position is up leaner and down richer or vise-versa?
>>>There are 5 positions to place the clip on the JX needle (the stock DRS
>>>needle is non-adjustable).  If you have the clip in the LOWEST position
>>>from
>>>top, you have RAISED the needle to its max fuel flow position.  Lowering
>>>clip=raising needle, & vice-versa.
>>>
>>>>The t-handle is it true more than 2 turns out is useless?
>>>Basically, yes.  Here is a simple illustration: imagine you have your
>>>little
>>>finger in a water hose.  If you really jam it in there, you can stop the
>>>water; as you slowly pull it out, more & more water pushes around your
>>>finger, until you have your finger all the way out, then the water is
>>>flowing freely, and you have no effect on it whether your finger is 1mm
or
>>>1foot away from the end of the water falling from the  hose.  So, when
you
>>>have the pilot valve X turns out (X is probably between 2 - 2.5 turns
out,
>
>>>but not exactly 2 turns), the further you turn out past there is
>>>irrelevant,
>>>cause the tip of the needle isn't affecting the flow of fuel going thru
>the
>>>pilot jet.  They say that if you have to go out more than about 2.5 turns
>>>on
>>>the pilot on the DRS, you need to move up to the next size pilot
>>>jet....BUT...myself & others on this list have found that the next size
up
>>>(40) is too big.
>>>
>>>>Can someone tell me the purpose of the pilot,main,and >jxneedles?
School
>>>>me in carb 101 give me a basic
>>>>run down.
>>>
>>>For an excellent "basic carb course" see the following URL:
>>>http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html
>>>The site is about the same type (CV) of carb we have on our DRS's, and an
>>>excellent diagram that explains the relationship between pilot, needle, &
>>>main jet functions, & how they are inter-related.
>>>
>>>Bryan in Dallas
>>>95 DR350SE
>>>
>>
>>______________________________________________________
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
>http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>>for info.
>>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>>Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>>
>
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
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>for info.
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>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
>Leave subject blank body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) tires
Date: 19 Sep 1999 15:28:26 PDT

I've been running a IRC GP-110 on the front and a Pirelli MT-21 rear, and
have liked how its handled.  I had the IRC GP-110 rear before the Pirelli,
and liked it (a better road tire), but didnt realize how much I was loosing
traction in the dirt till I put the Pirelli on.

Now, 1500 miles later, the Pirelli's center knobs seem to be about half the
height as they were when new.  I've probably put about 500 dirt miles & 1000
hiway miles on it.  Yall think this is decent mileage?  I dont have strong
feelings about it one way or another.  When is a knobby considered worn out?
  Obviously you wouldn't want to let the center knobs get down to the same
level as the rest of the solid part of the tire.  I think I'm starting to
tell that it doesn't grab as well as it did when new.

I've got 2300 miles on the front IRC, and it looks REALLY good.  Center
knobs still 1/3" heigh....cant remember/didn't measure them when new.  But
they look like they could go another 500 miles minimum.

I think this combination may be ideal for my riding (about 70/30
street/dirt), since you get good traction in dirt w/ the Pirelli, and the
IRC's construction makes it great in the twisties on the hiway...no
vibration, nice close-spaced knobs around edges to really let you lean on it
like a sport-bike.

Since I want to buy some new tires before my AR trip, what I'd like some
feedback on is....what are some of the other tires you guys are using that
ride a fair mix of street/dirt?  I'm pretty sure I want to stick to the
MT-21 on the rear, unless anyone knows of another DOT legal knobby that
works better & lasts longer.  Its the front that I'm really open to
suggestions on.  Anyone using the Pirelli MT-21 front tire? -can that tire
be pushed in the curves on the street? -does it vibrate much on the hiway?
-are more aggressive knobs on the front tire as noticable as they are on the
rear in dirt?  Like I said, I am happy w/ the IRC front (and boy are they
cheap), just wanted to consult the wisdom of the list:)

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) pegs
Date: 19 Sep 1999 15:39:31 PDT

Anyone using any aftermarket pegs?  Are they worth the $$?

Thumper is selling "Burly Pegs" for $79, & a "rigid mount kit" for $25.
Anyone using these? Are there better ones or some just as good for less $$?

I've been jumping alot recently, & several times have found it hard to feel
well-planted on the bike while in the air & while landing.

Are vibrations very noticable if you toss the rubber-mounting setup?

My right peg has been bent since I got it...not bad, just enough to force my
ankel inward toward the engine a little more than it should be.  Just
thinking about buying new ones if there is a big improvement over stock...

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) exhuast
Date: 19 Sep 1999 20:38:24 -0400 (EDT)

Guys I'm real bad with roman numerals it's a powercore 4.This is a new
muffler on the market.Still interested in some info on it.Anyone?.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mitja Jeric" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) WWW Page on DR350 carb
Date: 20 Sep 1999 08:12:57 +0200

Go to:  www.kiss.uni-lj.si/~k4fs0432


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) WWW Page on DR350 carb
Date: 20 Sep 1999 13:08:15 +0200

Very, very good :)


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Mitja Jeric <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: lunes 20 de septiembre de 1999 8:09
Asunto: (dr350) WWW Page on DR350 carb


>Go to:  www.kiss.uni-lj.si/~k4fs0432
>
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
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>


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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Dennis Kirk
Date: 20 Sep 1999 08:36:55 -0500

Does anyone have the number for Dennis Kirk?  I need a catalog.

Thanks - Chuck Vokac

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From: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Dennis Kirk
Date: 19 Sep 1999 08:20:41 -0400

You can get their phone number from their web page, www.denniskirk.com
or request a catalog at https://secure.visi.com/dkinc/catorder2.html

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, September 20, 1999 9:37 AM

Does anyone have the number for Dennis Kirk?  I need a catalog.

Thanks - Chuck Vokac

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From: [e-mail] (Chesley, Andrus)
Subject: (dr350) RE:List Bikes
Date: 20 Sep 1999 08:11:38 -0500

I give a   "YA" vote on including the 400 or 650.  More your informed .,
better you can be. Just in from Indiana...... get places I would of
loved to have had my DR with me butttttttt. Needed a 950+ mile day to
get home and not DR Territory ha ha ha .....

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches



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From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Dennis Kirk
Date: 20 Sep 1999 08:38:30 -0700

800-328-9280

Jeff Corsaro


charles w vokac wrote:

> Does anyone have the number for Dennis Kirk?  I need a catalog.
>
> Thanks - Chuck Vokac


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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Need tire feedback today!
Date: 20 Sep 1999 10:49:13 PDT

Hey guys, I need to know if anyone has successfully mounted a 130/80-18
Pirrelli MT-21 on the rear....a guy at BajaDesigns is telling me it should
fit.  I'm assuming this wider tire would be better than the 120/80 MT-21 I'd
been running.

Same guy also suggested a "Unicross" (made by Metzler or Pirrelli??)  tire
for the front....anyone using these?  Supposed to be more aggressive
off-road than MT-21, but he didnt know how they would work on the street.

Common guys!!!  I need some tire intelligence!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE:List Bikes
Date: 20 Sep 1999 14:25:30 EDT

In a message dated 9/20/99 8:21:43 AM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Needed a 950+ mile day to
 get home and not DR Territory ha ha ha ..... >>

C'mon Andrus,  you can do it!  I just nailed 650mi. on my DR350 Sat with
another 500mi Sun.  Course I now need to go get my butt recapped!!

I also vote to keep the upcoming DR400 with the 350 list.  Don't want to
splinter the list just yet.

Doug

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) tires
Date: 20 Sep 1999 14:54:32 -0500

I happened to see an old post that I saved.  Mike said he mounted a
140/80 rear on a '98 DRSE with no clearance problems.  I agree that wider
is better.  I don't think tallness is so important but what do I know?
I just looked at a Dunlop M39 front tire - looks aggressive - I think DOT
approved tires are a poor choice for dirt riding - especially with deep
sand and mud.  My rear MT-21 slides around and doesn't grip worth a damn.
Thanks for the Dennis Kirk number Jeff!

Chuck Vokac Panama City Beach, FL

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need tire feedback today!
Date: 20 Sep 1999 12:03:04 -0700

Hi Bryan,  I recently dismounted a140/80-18 off  of a 1996 dirt only DR350 this was an IRC
soft terrain tire. I replaced it with a 120/90- 18 for the guy that owned it. It seemed to
have clearance so you should be ok with a 130/80-18 I don't think the rim sizes are any
different on the DR/S. Hope this helps.

Jesse

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> Hey guys, I need to know if anyone has successfully mounted a 130/80-18
> Pirrelli MT-21 on the rear....a guy at BajaDesigns is telling me it should
> fit.  I'm assuming this wider tire would be better than the 120/80 MT-21 I'd
> been running.
>
> Same guy also suggested a "Unicross" (made by Metzler or Pirrelli??)  tire
> for the front....anyone using these?  Supposed to be more aggressive
> off-road than MT-21, but he didnt know how they would work on the street.
>
> Common guys!!!  I need some tire intelligence!
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need tire feedback today!
Date: 20 Sep 1999 15:56:58 EDT

Okay, for Bryan and anybody else who's askin' the question: "Will it fit?"

Tire sizes these days are normally specified with two numbers plus the rim
diameter; I'll use the stock tire on my dirt only DR as an example. It is a
110/100 x 18 tire; the first number indicates the tread width, in
millimeters, AS MEASURED FROM SIDEWALL TO SIDEWALL (as opposed to being
measured from the outside edges of the outer row of knobs, I'll get to that
in a minute). The next number is the aspect ratio; it represents a percentage
of the width and tells you the cross-sectional height of the tire. In this
case, the aspect ratio is 100% so the tire cross-sectional height is the same
as its tread width, 110mm's. All tires that have a 100% aspect ratio have the
tread measured from sidewall to sidewall.

The next tire sizes are those "low profile" types (90 and 80 series) As an
example I'll use the 130/80 x 18 tire Bryan is asking about. Again, the first
number indicates the tread width, measured in millimeters, but in this case
the tread is MEASURED ACROSS THE FULL WIDTH OF THE TIRE, FROM THE OUTSIDE
EDGES OF THE OUTERMOST KNOBS. The second number, again, is the aspect ratio
and is a percentage of the measured tread width.

In measuring my stock tire as if it were an 80 or 90 series tire, a 110/100
tire has the same tread width as a 130/90 or 130/80 tire. If you doubt my
words, go to your local Dollar store and find a metric/english tape measure
(which is also handy for setting sag adjustments) and then check out the
tires your local dealer has on display. Measure your 100 series tires from
sidewall to sidewall and compare the 90 and 80 series tires to see what will
work.

So to answer your question, a 130/80 or 90 tire will fit the DR. A 140 might
fit but it would be pretty close and might be too much of a tire on a bike
that's not too far from stock.

Hope this helps....

Mike
' 93 DR350

P.S. The "Unicross" is made by Metzler and is a DOT approved knobby. It is
more aggressive because it is primarily an off- road tire.

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Dennis Kirk
Date: 20 Sep 1999 16:03:07 EDT

Chuck;

I've been very happy with the Dennis Kirk folks; they've had the stuff I
wanted and it always arrives in good condition (they pack it well). The
prices are a little higher than you might find elsewhere, but ground UPS
shipping is included. The only sore point is having to pay a $5 "handling"
fee for orders under $100.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) tires
Date: 20 Sep 1999 16:29:54 EDT

Chuck and all;

Ah the compromises of the dual sport machine.......been there done that and
that's why I've got a dirt only version of the Delta Romeo.......

Streetable "dirt" tires generally stink when the pavement ends....especially
if you've got softer terrain to handle. Putting full blown knobbies on a
street ridden bike can result in some weird handling and tire wear but......

IMHO, if you're gonna do it, get a tire designed for soft terrain. Why?
Because a soft terrain dirt tire is made of a harder rubber compound (the
better to stick the knobbies into the soft stuff) and the tread (knobs) are
usually taller; these tires will be better able to stand the BRIEF runs on
the pavement without wearing out too fast. Don't buy knobbies designed for
hard terrain because these are made of a softer rubber compound (the better
to stick on the hard clay stuff) and will dissolve if ridden on the pavement.

My suggestions? Check out Pirelli's MT44 (LagunaCross) for the rear.....very
aggressive paddle-type knob arrangement for the real sandy and soft
stuff...very hard rubber compound too...a little pricey though. IRC's M5B is
a good rear tire...very tall knobs again in a paddle arrangement... hard
compound and lasts a long time...relatively cheap too. For the front, again
go for a soft terrain type but stay away from those tires that have a real
"spikey" type of  knob arrangement 'cause they will definitly give you some
wild on road experiences....

Dennis Kirk's catalog has a good tire section to veiw these and other tires.

Hope it all helps.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Mike
Date: 20 Sep 1999 18:40:36 -0500

Mike, you're the man!  Thanks for the excellent tire info.  I finally
understand!
I went to the bike shop and they were clueless.  Needless to say I
immediately rushed to this list.  Yet again I am saved both monetarily
and psychologically from the ravages of my own ignorance and
inexperience.  It seems as though there are many different rear tire
sizes to choose from but they don't really vary much from the size of the
stock tire.  I am a little disapointed because I wanted some of those
real fat nasty looking knobbies that I saw on the other bikes at the
Amsterdam dual sport ride.  I figured that wider is better but I guess we
can't go much wider.  Would it be possible to put an extra washer on
either end of the axle to make more clearance for a wider tire like a
140/90-18?  (The axle is probably too short for something like that
huh?).  Anyway, thanks alot!

Chuck Vokac - Panama City Beach, FL  '92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale
Date: 20 Sep 1999 20:43:12 -0700



For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals)  and much much more
                Great Looking Great Running! In Reno Nevada.  $2600.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]



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From:    "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) CDN DS Rally 2000 - ?
Date: 20 Sep 1999 23:09:50 -0700

Hello all,

There has been growing interest on the KLR650 list for a Western Canadian
Dualsport Motorcycle Rally/Event.  It would be a week long event in the fall
of 2000 and if successful would continue annually in one form or another.
This event would be for any type of street legal dual sport bike from BMW to
KTM to Honda, etc...

I have setup an e-mail list one ONELIST.COM for this event.  We are just in
the very early planning stages, but want as much input as possible from
people willing to help organize such and event and/or people interested in
attending.  This list will also allow interested parties to discuss the
rally without bothering everyone on our various DS motorcycle e-mail lists.

The list info is below.  Please join if you are interested - keep in mind
joining the list does not mean you are committing to either help or attend
the rally.

Cheers,

Vik



                 Shortcut URL to subscribe::
                 http://www.onelist.com/community/CDN_DS_Rally


Community email addresses:
                  Post message:
                            [e-mail]
                  Subscribe:
                            [e-mail]
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                            [e-mail]
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mike
Date: 21 Sep 1999 05:06:07 EDT

In a message dated 9/20/99 6:22:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< I went to the bike shop and they were clueless.>>

Why doesn't that surprise me? Probably time to find yourself another bike
shop to spend your hard earned money in....

<<  Needless to say I immediately rushed to this list.  Yet again I am saved
both monetarily and psychologically from the ravages of my own ignorance and
 inexperience.  It seems as though there are many different rear tire
 sizes to choose from but they don't really vary much from the size of the
 stock tire.>>

Well, they'll vary enough to where if you get the wrong size (as in too big)
they won't fit properly. Besides, you can get a tire that's too big for the
bike and still fit the swing arm; there has to be a certain amount of
allowable wheelspin to help protect the drivetrain (unlike street bikes/dual
sport bike, dirt bikes don't have the big cush hub that the rear sprocket is
mounted into) and be able to keep the engine from truely bogging down.

<<  I am a little disapointed because I wanted some of those
 real fat nasty looking knobbies that I saw on the other bikes at the
 Amsterdam dual sport ride.  I figured that wider is better but I guess we
 can't go much wider.>>

I don't know what type tires they were running, but a 130/90 tire will put
just slightly more than 5 inches width of tread into your favorite terra
firma....check out the tires I suggested, they're pretty gnarly looking.

<< Would it be possible to put an extra washer on
 either end of the axle to make more clearance for a wider tire like a
 140/90-18?  (The axle is probably too short for something like that
 huh?).>>

A definite no. You won't be able to spread the rear swing arm any farther
apart than it is now.

<< Anyway, thanks alot! >>


No problem, glad to help out. Heaven knows enough folks have helped me out
along the way.

Mike

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Chesley, Andrus)
Subject: (dr350) RE:Tires
Date: 21 Sep 1999 05:40:42 -0500

Bryan in Dallas and others of interest
I'm doing a 4.50 Kenda 270 on back now.... no problems.. wear great with
about 1500 on it so far.  80% road and rest gravel, dirt , what ever.
Howls a bit at highway speeds but not that bad.. corners good on
pavement.... good in gravel, etc at my pace anyway.. ;-).

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches



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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need tire feedback today!
Date: 21 Sep 1999 05:54:04 PDT

Thanks to all who provided tire feedback; I sure appreciate it.  BTW, I made
an error in prev post...size on the rear MT-21 I was considering is
130/*90*-18, not ...80..

FWIW....best prices I found were, again, at Baja Designs
(www.bajadesigns.com).  They are great guys to deal with, very knowledgable
(several of the staff are desert racers) and have always sent me exactly
what I ordered in short time.  I decided to go w/ the MT-21s front & rear,
$53 & $69, respectively.  Price on the rear is $10 less for the 120/90.
Also ordered a Moose super tube (made by Metzler) for $21....I've had one on
rear for 1500 miles through alot of stickers, sharp rocks & stuff, & have
not lost ANY air due to punctures.

One more thing....in the next few weeks I'll be taking in the front & rear
wheel bearings to one of those fabled "bearing supply houses" to get the
best quality replacements I can find.  I'll post a note w/ the part#s & the
phone number of this place & yall can order from them if you want.

Take care guys-
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Need tire feedback today!
>Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:49:13 PDT
>
>Hey guys, I need to know if anyone has successfully mounted a 130/80-18
>Pirrelli MT-21 on the rear....a guy at BajaDesigns is telling me it should
>fit.  I'm assuming this wider tire would be better than the 120/80 MT-21
>I'd
>been running.
>
>Same guy also suggested a "Unicross" (made by Metzler or Pirrelli??)  tire
>for the front....anyone using these?  Supposed to be more aggressive
>off-road than MT-21, but he didnt know how they would work on the street.
>
>Common guys!!!  I need some tire intelligence!
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
>http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>Visit the dr350 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
>Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

______________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jack Alexander" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Turn signal question
Date: 21 Sep 1999 07:39:17 -0700

The left turn signal on my 95 DR350ES works great.  The right on doesn't
flash- but both bulbs burn steadily when the switch is flipped.  Any ideas?

Does anyone have luck keeping taillight burning in the small Acerbis
taillights?  These are the little bulbs.

TIA
Jack


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From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Turn signal question
Date: 21 Sep 1999 11:53:21 -0400

Had the same problem myself.  My local shop fixed it b/c I couldn't figure it out.
Apparently, it is due to a bad relay or switch of some type.  Not the actual turn signal
switch, mind you.

Heston
94 350SE

Jack Alexander wrote:

> The left turn signal on my 95 DR350ES works great.  The right on doesn't
> flash- but both bulbs burn steadily when the switch is flipped.  Any ideas?
>
> Does anyone have luck keeping taillight burning in the small Acerbis
> taillights?  These are the little bulbs.
>
> TIA
> Jack
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Carbs and fork information
Date: 21 Sep 1999 9:02:36 PDT

1998 DR350SE

  I went riding at Cow mountain in Ukiah California last Sunday.  It
looks like I finally got my carb problems solved.  What appears to be
the fix for me, and most of you probably already know this, is:

1)  I took off all the smog crap (about 6 feet of hoses)
2)  Plugged up the fuel tank breather vent
3)  Took BOTH carb vent hoses on the right side and routed them
    straight down.  No "T" vent.

  At first I put a filter in the end of both vent lines but that
prevents the choke from working when you do that so I took the filters
out.

  I can now jump to my hearts content and I get absolutely zero
bogging or hesitation.  This really helps with my right turns...




  I also put in the race-Tech springs that I got from Kientech (Thanks
Jesse) and man what a difference!  I set it up for the 43 kg setting
with a 20mm spacer for preload and I put in fluid to the 125mm level.

  I have not been able to bottom the forks and I even hit a small jump
in fourth grear wide open and probably sailed 50 feet and landed on a
flat area.  If I had tried that before I would have bottomed so hard
that I would have knocked some teeth loose :-)  The whoops were much
better, but I still need to get my rear suspension set up.  I'll be
doing the rear spring and Kouba links soon.

  Doing the forks is definately worth it.  I don't understand why the
suspension isn't set up as close as possible to the buyers specs when
he buys it.  If I owned a shop the suspension is something that I'd go
over with a buyer.  I'd at least let them know what they should do if
I thought that they were that far out of spec.


  The only reason I'm getting my bike set up properly for me is due to
this mail list.  If I hadn't read how much was possible and had people
around to help and answer some of my stupid questions, I'd still be
riding totally stock and not realizing what I'm missing.  Once my
suspension is dialed in I'm going after some horsepower.  Eventually I
hope to have the 435 kit in place done by Kientech :-)  Thanks
everyone for your help.

P.S. I agree about allowing more into the group.  Maybe this should be
     the "DR" mailing list and allow any Suzuki DR model.  I'm not
     real keen to the idea of opening it to other makes (Kawasaki,
     Honda, Yamaha, etc) because some people like to make comments
     putting down other peoples choice of brand.  That sometimes leads
     to a misunderstanding (which I am guilty of) which can get out of
     hand quickly.  Just my two cents worth but I'll go along with
     what everyone else wants.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carbs and fork information
Date: 21 Sep 1999 12:33:21 -0400

I'd like to place my vote for allowing all DRs on the list.
I'm sure most everyone wants to know about the new DR400,
and then we can't very well shut-out the DR650s.

Regards...Mark

Scott Aldrich wrote:
>
> 1998 DR350SE
>
>   I went riding at Cow mountain in Ukiah California last Sunday.  It
> looks like I finally got my carb problems solved.  What appears to be
> the fix for me, and most of you probably already know this, is:
>
> 1)  I took off all the smog crap (about 6 feet of hoses)
> 2)  Plugged up the fuel tank breather vent
> 3)  Took BOTH carb vent hoses on the right side and routed them
>     straight down.  No "T" vent.
>
>   At first I put a filter in the end of both vent lines but that
> prevents the choke from working when you do that so I took the filters
> out.
>
>   I can now jump to my hearts content and I get absolutely zero
> bogging or hesitation.  This really helps with my right turns...
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>   I also put in the race-Tech springs that I got from Kientech (Thanks
> Jesse) and man what a difference!  I set it up for the 43 kg setting
> with a 20mm spacer for preload and I put in fluid to the 125mm level.
>
>   I have not been able to bottom the forks and I even hit a small jump
> in fourth grear wide open and probably sailed 50 feet and landed on a
> flat area.  If I had tried that before I would have bottomed so hard
> that I would have knocked some teeth loose :-)  The whoops were much
> better, but I still need to get my rear suspension set up.  I'll be
> doing the rear spring and Kouba links soon.
>
>   Doing the forks is definately worth it.  I don't understand why the
> suspension isn't set up as close as possible to the buyers specs when
> he buys it.  If I owned a shop the suspension is something that I'd go
> over with a buyer.  I'd at least let them know what they should do if
> I thought that they were that far out of spec.
>
>   The only reason I'm getting my bike set up properly for me is due to
> this mail list.  If I hadn't read how much was possible and had people
> around to help and answer some of my stupid questions, I'd still be
> riding totally stock and not realizing what I'm missing.  Once my
> suspension is dialed in I'm going after some horsepower.  Eventually I
> hope to have the 435 kit in place done by Kientech :-)  Thanks
> everyone for your help.
>
> P.S. I agree about allowing more into the group.  Maybe this should be
>      the "DR" mailing list and allow any Suzuki DR model.  I'm not
>      real keen to the idea of opening it to other makes (Kawasaki,
>      Honda, Yamaha, etc) because some people like to make comments
>      putting down other peoples choice of brand.  That sometimes leads
>      to a misunderstanding (which I am guilty of) which can get out of
>      hand quickly.  Just my two cents worth but I'll go along with
>      what everyone else wants.
>
> --
> Scott Aldrich
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Turn signal question
Date: 21 Sep 1999 09:52:07 -0700

It sounds like one of the bulbs on the right side turn signal is the wrong wattage, they
should both be 21w single filament bulbs.  The Japanies-turn-signal-flasher-boxes are very
picky about the bulb wattage.  If it is not the bulb you might have a loose connection in the
switch or one of the connector in the right hand turn signal circuit.

Hope that helps,
Jeff Corsaro

Jack Alexander wrote:

> The left turn signal on my 95 DR350ES works great.  The right on doesn't
> flash- but both bulbs burn steadily when the switch is flipped.  Any ideas?
>
> Does anyone have luck keeping taillight burning in the small Acerbis
> taillights?  These are the little bulbs.
>
> TIA
> Jack
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
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From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carbs and fork information
Date: 21 Sep 1999 09:58:17 -0700

You might have problems in the future with the gas tank breather vent being plugged up.  The
gas cap on the California models is sealed.  So you will eventually get a vacuum as the tank
runs low on gas, slowing down the fuel flow.  I took all the cali-crap off one of my friends
DR, I had to run a small hose down the frame to the breather vent underneath the tank.

Jeff Corsaro

Scott Aldrich wrote:

>
> 2)  Plugged up the fuel tank breather vent


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice
Date: 21 Sep 1999 16:09:26 EDT

I fried my tire and chain last weekend on a hard 2 day ride (100% highway).
I want to use a IRC GP1 on the rear but all Chaparral offers is 4.00 or 4.60.
 My present stock tire is a stock Dunlop 601 110/100 18.  Can I use a 4.60 or
do I need to go to the 4.00?  What is the in. equivalent of the stock 110/100
Dunlop?

I intend to replace my o-ring 520 chain which has stretched.  I want to get
the best chain possible (o-ring).  Any suggestions?

Thanks for any help,
Doug

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Chuck Coughlin" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice
Date: 21 Sep 1999 15:14:22 -0500



>I intend to replace my o-ring 520 chain which has stretched.  I want to get
>the best chain possible (o-ring).  Any suggestions?

Personally, I wouldn't run any but a Regina o ring chain. In my opinion, they
are the best chain you can get.

Chuck C.



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From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350SE luggage rack??
Date: 21 Sep 1999 17:48:54 -0300

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01BF0459.9268B7C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Anyone know where i can buy this in New York or Chicago??????
        Tank and other Graphics=20
         seat covers
        disk Guards
        Gas Tank (who is bether?)
        Acerbis Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.
thanks.

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01BF0459.9268B7C0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyone know where i can buy this in New =
York or=20
Chicago??????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>        Tank and=20
other Graphics </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>     =
    seat=20
covers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
disk=20
Guards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Gas Tank (who=20
is bether?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Acerbis=20
Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01BF0459.9268B7C0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) En: DR350SE luggage rack??
Date: 21 Sep 1999 17:50:05 -0300

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF0459.BCE6B560
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

sorry but and about luggage rack anyone know where i can buy this =
online??

----- Original Message -----=20
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 5:48 PM


Anyone know where i can buy this in New York or Chicago??????
        Tank and other Graphics=20
         seat covers
        disk Guards
        Gas Tank (who is bether?)
        Acerbis Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.
thanks.

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF0459.BCE6B560
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>sorry but and about luggage rack anyone =
know where=20
i can buy this online??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"=20
title=[e-mail]>eeau</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"=20
title=[e-mail]>[e-mail]</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 21, 1999 5:48 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> DR350SE luggage rack??</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyone know where i can buy this in New =
York or=20
Chicago??????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>        Tank and=20
other Graphics </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>     =
    seat=20
covers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
disk=20
Guards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Gas Tank (who=20
is bether?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Acerbis=20
Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01BF0459.BCE6B560--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) En: DR350SE luggage rack??
Date: 21 Sep 1999 18:25:40 -0300

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BF045E.B53D65C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sorry guys my emails now go in text format....I hope this is work

sorry but and about luggage rack anyone know where i can buy this =
online??



Anyone know where i can buy this in New York or Chicago??????
        Tank and other Graphics=20
         seat covers
        disk Guards
        Gas Tank (who is bether?)
        Acerbis Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.
thanks.

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BF045E.B53D65C0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry guys my emails now go in text =
format....I=20
hope this is work</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>sorry but and about luggage rack anyone =
know where=20
i can buy this online??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyone know where i can buy this in New =
York or=20
Chicago??????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>        Tank and=20
other Graphics </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>     =
    seat=20
covers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
disk=20
Guards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Gas Tank (who=20
is bether?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>        =
Acerbis=20
Plastic Kits to DR350 anyone know if exist.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BF045E.B53D65C0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wez" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) UK white bros stockest
Date: 21 Sep 1999 23:11:44 +0100

I know this has been posted before, but I lost the number for the stockest.
If anyone has the telephone number I would be most greatfull.

Wez
DR350SP 96
RD250DX 79



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) List question..
Date: 21 Sep 1999 19:31:23 -0700

Kurt,

Welcome it with open arms....

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's
Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
> OK, so here is a question that is just waiting for its time to
> come...when the DR400 hits the market do we want to welcome discussions
> here? What about changing the list orientation to include all DR's...I
> imagine that 350 and 650 and 400 discussions could occur threaded
> alongside one another. Meanwhile, we can all contribute to non-model
> specific questions....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Kurt

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice
Date: 21 Sep 1999 20:21:53 EDT

Just got done doing the tire size letter for the list, here's the scoop on
tire sizes.

Metric size tires that have 100% aspect ratios (as in the stock DR tire,
110/100x18) are measured from sidewall to sidewall: this is NOT the overall
width of the actual tread. In this case the tire carcass measures 110mm's
wide and the cross-sectional height of the carcass is also 110mm's.

Metric size tires that have 90 or 80% aspect ratios are measured from the
outside edge of the outermost row of knobs (or tread) and are the actual
width of the tread. If you measure your stock 110/100x18 tire across the
tread you'll find the actual tread width is 130mm.

To answer your question, since a 110/100 tire is actually 130mm's across the
tread and since 130mm's is roughly equivalent to 5 1/8 inches, you should
have no trouble fitting the 4.60 tire on your bike. I would recommend you
stop by your local Dollar store (or its equivalent) and pick up a cheap
metric/english tape measure to toss in your tool box. It's great for checking
tire sizing ('cause most of the gnomes in the dealership won't know) and also
for setting up the sag on your suspension.

Hope this helps......

Mike
' 93 DR350

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) tires
Date: 21 Sep 1999 19:14:54 PDT

>Now, 1500 miles later, the Pirelli's center knobs seem to >be about half the
>height as they were when new.  I've probably put about 500 >dirt miles & 1000
>hiway miles on it.  Yall think this is decent mileage?

This is really good life for an MT-21.  I usually replace the rear MT-21 after about 2000 miles, by then the center knobs on mine are usually 2/3-3/4 worn down.  I ride about 95% dirt, some of which is on some really rock terrain which takes it toll on the knobs quite quickly.

Doug

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) pegs
Date: 21 Sep 1999 19:17:30 PDT

foot pegs......

Yes, I use larger pegs - IMS makes some steel ones that are larger than stock, they sell for about $65.00.  They are a good investment for agressive riders that like to stand up alot when riding the tight stuff.

I wouldn't get the rigid mounts because you may pick up some vibration in the pegs.

Doug

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: tires, was Re: (dr350) Mike
Date: 21 Sep 1999 19:36:22 PDT

Dunlop K139 is probABLY THE MOST AGGRESSIVE dot LEGAL KNOBBY.

I use it along with most people i ride with and it out performs most other tires they have used on the front on a bike that sees mostly dirt, and this is on a variety of bikes:

My 94 DR 350
ATK 605
85 Honda XL 600
KTM 620 and 400 RX/C


Doug

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) bike won't start
Date: 22 Sep 1999 01:02:57 -0500

My bike won't start - please help me!  It's a 92 S model without electric
start.  My bike has been progressively harder to start over the last
week.  The last straw came2 days ago when the boot on my air filter came
loose and I rode on very dusty roads.  The carb was sucking non filtered
air for 50 miles before I noticed it.  Surprisingly, the bike continued
to run fine.   I removed the carb (noticing a bunch of pretty red dust
all over the whole inside) and cleaned it with water and Simple Green.  I
stuck my finger into the engine where the carb attaches but didn't see
any dirt.  I replaced the carb and put in a new spark plug and I could
start the bike a couple of times before it sputtered and cut out  (I
guess the sputtering was from the water I shouldn't have used).  I
cleaned the carb again this time using compressed air to blow out all the
small passages.  I checked all the jets in the carb except the pilot jet
(I stripped it earlier and it won't come out).  Could a clogged pilot jet
prevent starting? (I did try to start the bike at full throttle but it
didn't help).  When I replaced the carb this time I couldn't start the
bike at all.  I checked my Clymer manual for troubleshooting tips.   I
removed the gas line and saw that gas was flowing OK.  I unplugged the
spark plug and touched it to the engine - good spark (thankfully I didn't
set the gas all over the ground on fire).  I seem to be getting good
compression too.  I burned out a fuse because I connected the two wires
that I had cut when I removed the license plate holder so I replaced it
with the spare that comes with the bike.  I have noticed oil all around
the filler cap but the cap has been on tight.  It's almost as if the oil
was under pressure and being forced out.  The oil level has gone low even
though I changed it and the filter 2 weeks ago.  My battery has gone dead
with all the kickstarting but I believe the bike will start even with a
dead battery (will recharging it help)?   I tried disconnecting the fuel
tank vent line because doing this previously seemed to make it easier to
start on one occasion.  Could all the dirt in the engine have caused the
piston or crankshaft to seize  (how do you know if you have a seized
piston or crankshaft)?  Should I tear into the engine to try to clean it
out ?(please say no).  Would changing the oil and filter again make a
difference in starting?    Would it be worthwhile to use a little starter
fluid (where do you put it - in the carb or down the spark plug hole)?
Any suggestions will immediately be met with thanks and appreciation.  If
you can get it to start I will give it to you.  No wait, I'll name it
after you.

Chuck Vokac - 92 DR350S  (kickstarter - uuugh)

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Colin Reed" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) UK White Bros Stockists
Date: 22 Sep 1999 11:01:30 +0100

For UK White Bros stockists try:

Allens Performance R & D     [phone]
Taylor Racing                       [phone]

Colin
Durham, England


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350SE luggage rack??
Date: 22 Sep 1999 05:22:47 PDT




>From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
>         Gas Tank (who is bether?)

I got the Clarke 4.? gallon tank for $160 from Baja Designs
(www.bajadesigns.com), but I wish I would've gotten something else, cause
there is about 1/2 gallon you cant use.  I think the IMS tank has a petcock
on both sides, allowing you to use most/all of the capacity.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) tires
Date: 22 Sep 1999 14:02:51 +0200

The bridgestone TW302 and 301 are very good  dual-sport tires (well, I th=
ink
that it=B4s the best). Look at http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/bridgest.ht=
m.
This tire can last 5000 milles perfectly in user 30% off and 70% on-road
.After 5000 milles (8000 km), It=B4s 3/4. (The original tire Dunlop last =
...
5000 milles too!!! and it=B4s a on-road tire only).
I=B4m very happy with this tire (I have used 3 TW=B4s yet... and I will u=
se it)

Bye.


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
CC: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: mi=E9rcoles 22 de septiembre de 1999 4:22
Asunto: Re: (dr350) tires


>>Now, 1500 miles later, the Pirelli's center knobs seem to >be about hal=
f
the
>>height as they were when new.  I've probably put about 500 >dirt miles =
&
1000
>>hiway miles on it.  Yall think this is decent mileage?
>
>This is really good life for an MT-21.  I usually replace the rear MT-21
after about 2000 miles, by then the center knobs on mine are usually 2/3-=
3/4
worn down.  I ride about 95% dirt, some of which is on some really rock
terrain which takes it toll on the knobs quite quickly.
>
>Doug
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>Visit the dr350 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=3Ddr350
>Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
>Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (no subject)
Date: 22 Sep 1999 09:33:56 EDT

unsubscribe

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From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) So long
Date: 22 Sep 1999 11:39:39 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just wanted to drop a note saying thanks to all the people on this list.  I
sold my 94 DR350SE Monday.  I sure appreciate all the good information that
was exchanged on this list.

Thanks to all,

Brian Luttman
1999 WR400F
Arlington, Texas
YZWR400 List - http://yzwr400.listbot.com
[e-mail]

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BF04EF.274CC260
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D600293716-22091999>Just =
wanted to drop=20
a note saying thanks to all the people on this list.  I sold my 94 =
DR350SE=20
Monday.  I sure appreciate all the good information that was =
exchanged on=20
this list.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D600293716-22091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D600293716-22091999>Thanks =
to=20
all,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D600293716-22091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D600293716-22091999>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Handwriting" size=3D5>Brian =
Luttman</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Handwriting" size=3D5></FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial size=3D2>1999=20
WR400F</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Arlington, Texas</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>YZWR400 List - <A=20
href=3D"http://yzwr400.listbot.com/">http://yzwr400.listbot.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D4>[e-mail]</FONT></A></DIV></SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></H=
TML>

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BF04EF.274CC260--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) New bikes..help? NKLR
Date: 22 Sep 1999 11:53:46 -0600

I'm looking for some help in trying to line-up feature articles for Dual
Sport News...do listers have any information on the scheduled release of new
bikes.

1. Guzzi Quota
2. Aprilia Pegaso
3. Cagiva with new V Twin
4. Suzuki DR400
5. F650 PDGS

Any that I've missed? Anyone in a special position to ride and review any of
the above?

Thanks,

Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News

(write me if you'd like to see pictures of the most interesting bike at the
Park City Motorcycle Week, it went largely unnoticed by most folks)


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice
Date: 22 Sep 1999 14:44:21 -0400

> I run the Regina o-ring as well, but I have heard opinion that x-ring chains are the best.
> The idea is that between each link is an "x" vs. an "o" and that the "x" shape will hold
> more
> lube than the "o" shape will.  Don't know if this is true or false but worth checking out.
>
> Heston
> 94 350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350SE luggage rack??
Date: 22 Sep 1999 15:37:35 -0400

Does anyone have a plastic tank for sale (plain white, no stickers please)?  Has to fit on '94
DR350SE.

Thanks,

Heston

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> >From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
> >         Gas Tank (who is bether?)
>
> I got the Clarke 4.? gallon tank for $160 from Baja Designs
> (www.bajadesigns.com), but I wish I would've gotten something else, cause
> there is about 1/2 gallon you cant use.  I think the IMS tank has a petcock
> on both sides, allowing you to use most/all of the capacity.
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "eeau" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) anyone can send to me a detail picture about a luggage rack for DR350?
Date: 22 Sep 1999 14:44:45 -0300

Any good quality picture and reference where i can buy ONline this rack.
If is possible reproduce the rack in my house with my handtools i send to
list details



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Seat info
Date: 22 Sep 1999 18:22:14 EDT

I'm in the process of setting up my DR350SE for another lengthy trip (two
600mi. days).  I am trying to figure out what to do about the seat as the
last trip neccessitated leaving my butt in "Intensive Care" for 3 days.

With the impending DR400 I am reluctant to use my current seat or invest too
much in a new one lest I decide to trade or sell.  Does anyone have
experience with temporary "Gel" or "Air" strap on type butt savers?

Thanks,
Doug

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) 130x90 Rear
Date: 22 Sep 1999 19:07:41 EDT

Yes the bigger... biggest 130 18inch rear Mt-21 fits the DR

Say everyone... a buddy went to the Suzuki unveiling of the new DR in Las
Vegas this weekend... he said it is awesome... there will be three versions
of the DR400... a street version, a race WR400like version that's lighter
than the YZ400, and a woods DR...  that's what I heard... time will tell if
it's true


Also who was it that cut open a DR stock exhaust to remove the baffle??
where exactly should it be cut and how??

Guy

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jim Vineski" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) New DR400
Date: 22 Sep 1999 20:25:37 -0400

Just ran across another web page with photo and specs.  Check out:
 http://206.83.176.17/~sucycles/sr-20/dualsport/fs_dr400s.htm

Jim


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New DR400
Date: 22 Sep 1999 17:32:09 -0700

Here are the MSRP:

Dual-Sport DR-Z400SY $5349
DR-Z400Y $5249
Electric Start DR-Z400EY $5349 (for the lazy fokes like me with my TT-R250)
DR650SET $5399

I must have got my 99' DR350 for a bargan at $3800

Jeff Corsaro



----- Original Message -----
Cc: <>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 5:25 PM


> Just ran across another web page with photo and specs.  Check out:
>  http://206.83.176.17/~sucycles/sr-20/dualsport/fs_dr400s.htm
>
> Jim
>
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: (klr650) New bikes..help? NKLR
Date: 22 Sep 1999 19:05:44 -0600

Hey Morgan,

Try this...
http://206.83.176.17/~sucycles/sr-20/dualsport/fs_dr400s.htm

Fred


----- Original Message -----
dr350 <[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 1999 6:58 PM


> Hi Kurt, I was looking for your name to click on to ask this very
question.
> I just now got off the phone with Elden, who has been smitten with the
> internet.  He wanted to know if I had seen anything on what he called a
"DX"
> 400.  I printed all the writeups off the net on the new Honda 650 (which
he
> was real excited about....esp. the front end geometry..he said they
finally
> got it right) so he was hopeful the Suzuki stuff was out.  I have not seen
> anything.  He said the new 400 would come in 3 versions..MX, enduro with
> electric start, and street legal with electric start.  Double overhead
cam,
> water cooled.....but that was all he knew.  Got any info???
> Morgan
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Tire and Chain advice
Date: 22 Sep 1999 21:43:28 -0700

Hi   Heston you are correct the X ring chain is excellent. I just installed one on a DR for one
of my customers its more costly than the o'ring but I find you get what you pay for.
Jesse

Heston LaMar wrote:

> > I run the Regina o-ring as well, but I have heard opinion that x-ring chains are the best.
> > The idea is that between each link is an "x" vs. an "o" and that the "x" shape will hold
> > more
> > lube than the "o" shape will.  Don't know if this is true or false but worth checking out.
> >
> > Heston
> > 94 350SE
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat info
Date: 23 Sep 1999 05:12:29 PDT

Somebody makes a removeable "air seat" strap on dilly...looks good, but way
overpriced.  I've also seen gel pads made to slip over bicycle seats that
might work.  I have previously taken a "gardener's knee pad" from Wal-Mart
for $3 & cut it to fit the sweet spot on my seat and secured it w/ velcro.
Its made of 1" thick closed cell foam that is soft yet firm.  Helped me
alot.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Seat info
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 18:22:14 EDT
>
>I'm in the process of setting up my DR350SE for another lengthy trip (two
>600mi. days).  I am trying to figure out what to do about the seat as the
>last trip neccessitated leaving my butt in "Intensive Care" for 3 days.
>
>With the impending DR400 I am reluctant to use my current seat or invest
>too
>much in a new one lest I decide to trade or sell.  Does anyone have
>experience with temporary "Gel" or "Air" strap on type butt savers?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
>http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>Visit the dr350 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
>Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 130x90 Rear
Date: 23 Sep 1999 05:18:00 PDT

It was Dave Millholland in the Dallas area that operated on his stock
exhaust at my suggestion....I'd done same thing to an XR650L w/ great
results.  If you just cut the end off of the can where the weld bead is, you
can then take the baffle out...and then spot weld the endpiece back on.
Dave can tell you the details....he said it was an improvement, and was
quieter than my FMFMegaMax w/ all disks in place...but he welded the
endpiece back on.  Ideally, I think it'd be best if you could somehow make
the endpiece removeable.

Thanks for tire info-

Bryan in Dallas
DR 350SE


>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) 130x90 Rear
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 19:07:41 EDT
>
>Yes the bigger... biggest 130 18inch rear Mt-21 fits the DR
>
>Say everyone... a buddy went to the Suzuki unveiling of the new DR in Las
>Vegas this weekend... he said it is awesome... there will be three versions
>of the DR400... a street version, a race WR400like version that's lighter
>than the YZ400, and a woods DR...  that's what I heard... time will tell if
>it's true
>
>
>Also who was it that cut open a DR stock exhaust to remove the baffle??
>where exactly should it be cut and how??
>
>Guy
>
>Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
>http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
>Visit the dr350 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
>Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

______________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) did my first valve adjustment
Date: 23 Sep 1999 05:56:29 PDT

Yesterday I did my first valve adjustment on the DR.  It has 6225 miles on
it, and the original owner *said* he'd taken it in for the breakin adj @ 600
mi or whatever.  No other adjustments since then.  I checked the clearances
before I started and all valves were out of spec on the loose side, just
barely letting the large end range of feeler guages slide in/out without
drag.  After adjustment, I could tell NO difference in performance....but at
least I know everything is in spec now.  The whole job took me about an
hour, and I found that I didnt really need that cool little valve adjustment
knob that Thumper Racing sells...but it would've saved me 10 minutes or so I
guess.  I turned the adjusters w/ needle nose pliers.

So I guess it speaks well of these engines that they can go nearly 6000
miles of fairly aggressive riding w/o being too far out of spec.
I think the recommended adj interval is 3000 miles.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) did my first valve adjustment
Date: 23 Sep 1999 09:19:21 EDT

Hy Bryan;

Doing a valve adjustment is probably the one most important periodic
adjustment to check/make on any 4-stroke machine. You're lucky the valves had
been on the loose side (which is the better way to err in making
adjustments); generally, the worst thing arising from loose valves is a
little bit more noise. Had one or more of the valves been less than spec
(tight valves) you would've been running the risk of burning a valve,
especially if the tight valve(s) was (were) an exhaust valve. The valves need
good contact with the valve seat to allow them to cool and this is
particularly important for the exhaust valves; the heat is transfered to the
engine block each time the valve is fully seated. Intake valves benefit from
the cool blast of the intake charge in addition to valve seat contact, but
the exhaust valves don't and must have good seat contact to cool them or they
will self destruct quite rapidly.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Colin Parkes" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Air box (UK)
Date: 23 Sep 1999 15:19:21 +0100

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi,

got a '92 350SN (I think!!)
I read everywhere that you can get good gains with a cycle gear airbox.
The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) tailpipe and a bigger =
main jet (I think).
Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or equivalent) in the UK =
and also roughly what it might cost ?

Also, are there any good shops/mail order companies in the UK for DR350 =
parts ?

cheers,

Col.

------=_NextPart_000_0110_01BF05D7.0315A180
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>got a '92 350SN (I think!!)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I read everywhere that you can get good gains with a =
cycle=20
gear airbox.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) =
tailpipe and=20
a bigger main jet (I think).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or =
equivalent) in=20
the UK and also roughly what it might cost ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Also, are there any good shops/mail order companies =
in the UK=20
for DR350 parts ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Col.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0110_01BF05D7.0315A180--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Air box (UK)
Date: 23 Sep 1999 10:27:25 -0400

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
Never heard of an "SN" model.  Maybe it is a Euro version??
Supertramp was a band, not an exhaust.  Supertrapp pipes tend to be
very loud unless taken down to 3 discs and packed w/ the special silencing
material from Supertrapp (does not reduce flow, just noise according to
Supertrapp).  If you don't have a larger main jet, then you are probably
running a little lean w/ the Supertrapp.  The airbox is a good idea
-- check out  <a href="www.cyclegear.com">www.cyclegear.com</a> .
If you want to save some cash, just take the snorkle out of your stock
airbox, drill multiple ~ 1cm whole in the top of the stock airbox &
put in a better flowing K&N filter.  I think drilling holes gives
you just as much flow as hacking the whole top out of it and helps prevent
(although unlikely) foreign objects from entering the airbox.  Be
sure to remove your filter while drilling holes and to stop up the port
into the carb.  Then, vacuum out the airbox before reinstalling filter
& running the bike (you don't want plastic debris in your carb/engine!
<p>Heston
<p>Colin Parkes wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font size=-1>Hi,</font> <font size=-1>got
a '92 350SN (I think!!)</font><font size=-1>I read everywhere that you
can get good gains with a cycle gear airbox.</font><font size=-1>The bike
has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) tailpipe and a bigger main jet
(I think).</font><font size=-1>Does anyone know if you can get this airbox
(or equivalent) in the UK and also roughly what it might cost ?</font> <font size=-1>Also,
are there any good shops/mail order companies in the UK for DR350 parts
?</font> <font size=-1>cheers,</font> <font size=-1>Col.</font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) bike won't start
Date: 23 Sep 1999 11:54:16 -0500

Thanks Mike
I cleaned the carb this time including all the jets.  The bike started
and ran 3 or 4 miles last night without problems.  I shut off the bike
and planned to go for a ride in the am.  This am it won't start again.  I
pulled out the spark plug again and this time there is NO spark.  I
rechecked the electrical connections, charged the battery and tried a
different spark plug.  Still NO spark.  I plan to get an ohmeter and
check the ignition coil and RUN switch.  Is this the correct first step?

thanks again
Chuck Vokac - Panama City Beach, FL - '92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) bike won't start
Date: 23 Sep 1999 11:50:30 -0400


charles w vokac <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Thanks MikeI cleaned the carb this time including all the jets.  The bike started
and ran 3 or 4 miles last night without problems.  I shut off the bike
and planned to go for a ride in the am.  This am it won't start again.  I
pulled out the spark plug again and this time there is NO spark.  I
rechecked the electrical connections, charged the battery and tried a
different spark plug.  Still NO spark.  I plan to get an ohmeter and
check the ignition coil and RUN switch.  Is this the correct first step?

thanks again
Chuck Vokac - Panama City Beach, FL - '92 DR350S

Chuck, Considering the amount of times you have had the carb off and on, check the slip on electrical connectors on the coil that are directly above the intake area.  Its pretty easy to advertently pull one off or break the wires when forcing the carb in or out of the rubber boots.  Just a thought.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Guy Schneider" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Air box (UK)
Date: 23 Sep 1999 08:54:18 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF05A1.38BB5D60
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Colin:

Cycle Gear stopped selling the Magic Air Box about a year and a half ago.
Good news however is that they JUST started selling a replica made by
another R&D shop - I just bought one for $280.00 - its called the VORTEX
AIRBOX.  You can buy them from Cycle Gear or direct from the R&D shop
(Kientech Engineering).  Jesse Kientz runs the R&D shop and is extremely
helpful in working through the setup and jetting adjustments.  Kientech
Engineering's web site is http://www.kientech.com .  Jesse's phone number is
on the site as well.

Good luck.

[Guy Schneider]

 -----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Colin Parkes
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 1999 7:19 AM


  Hi,

  got a '92 350SN (I think!!)
  I read everywhere that you can get good gains with a cycle gear airbox.
  The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) tailpipe and a bigger
main jet (I think).
  Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or equivalent) in the UK and
also roughly what it might cost ?

  Also, are there any good shops/mail order companies in the UK for DR350
parts ?

  cheers,

  Col.

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF05A1.38BB5D60
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D988554615-23091999>Colin:</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D988554615-23091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D988554615-23091999>Cycle=20
Gear stopped selling the Magic Air Box about a year and a half =
ago.  Good=20
news however is that they JUST started selling a replica made by another =
R&D=20
shop - I just bought one for $280.00 - its called the VORTEX =
AIRBOX.  You=20
can buy them from Cycle Gear or direct from the R&D shop (Kientech=20
Engineering).  Jesse Kientz runs the R&D shop and is extremely =
helpful=20
in working through the setup and jetting adjustments.  Kientech=20
Engineering's web site is <A=20
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com">http://www.kientech.com</A> .  =
Jesse's phone=20
number is on the site as well.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D988554615-23091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D988554615-23091999>Good=20
luck.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D988554615-23091999></SPAN><FONT=20
face=3D"Times New Roman"><BR><FONT size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D988554615-23091999><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial>[Guy =
Schneider] </FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"><FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D988554615-23091999></SPAN></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"><FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D988554615-23091999> </SPAN>-----Original =
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
[e-mail] =
[mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On=20
Behalf Of</B> Colin Parkes<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, September 23, 1999 =
7:19=20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> dr350<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr350) Air box=20
(UK)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>got a '92 350SN (I think!!)</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I read everywhere that you can get good gains with =
a cycle=20
  gear airbox.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>The bike has a Supertramp (or is it supertrapp?) =
tailpipe=20
  and a bigger main jet (I think).</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone know if you can get this airbox (or =
equivalent)=20
  in the UK and also roughly what it might cost ?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Also, are there any good shops/mail order =
companies in the=20
  UK for DR350 parts ?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>cheers,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Col.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF05A1.38BB5D60--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Stock airbox for sale
Date: 23 Sep 1999 11:05:08 PDT

Since I'm now using Jesse's Vortex airbox, I figured I'd see if any of you
guys might be interested in buying my stock box.  It has been cut to max
opening on top, and was working very well for me.  Includes stock airfilter.
  Special bargain blow-out bonanza price of only $20!!!! (+shipping to
you...maybe another $5 or so?)  :)

Its off a 95 SE model, but I assume it would fit most other S model years as
well.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 23 Sep 1999 11:15:33 PDT


Just thinking about the new DR400....

At over $5K, any of you guys think a modified older model SE might be a
better bargain?  I figure:

suspension mods: $500
Thumper Racing 435 kit installed in engine by Thumper: $650
new Mikuni pumper carb: $300
Vortex airbox: $280
(any other mods like exhaust can, bars, etc... you'd probably be putting on
the new DR400 also, so I wont add them)
TOTAL: $1730

I know you can pick up used DR-S's for around $2K, bringing total investment
for an older bike w/ mods to $3730....and I'm thinking....this would be a
better bike than the new 400!  Anyone agree?

Of course...I could just be rationalizing not having $5+K to buy another
toy!!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 23 Sep 1999 14:22:21 -0600

> At over $5K, any of you guys think a modified older model SE might be a
> better bargain?  I figure:


you might be right Bryan, especially if you figure no one likes a stock bike
(except Gino) and so you can start to add the numbers for the improved
suspension upgrades and engine mods on the DRZ400...

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Stock airbox for sale -SOLD
Date: 23 Sep 1999 13:29:13 PDT

Damn!  Maybe i should'a asked for more!  Looks like Chris gets it.  Thanks
to the rest of you who replied.

Chris- I'll get it in the mail to you tomorrow or Monday.

Bryan in Dallas
DR 350SE


>From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
>To: 'Bryan Nolastname' <[e-mail]>
>Subject: RE: (dr350) Stock airbox for sale
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:34:04 -0500
>
>Brian,
>
>I just talked to my dealer and he told me that they have the same part #
>and
>he assured me that it would fit.
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:    Bryan Nolastname [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> > Sent:    Thursday, September 23, 1999 1:20 PM
> > To:    [e-mail]
> > Subject:    RE: (dr350) Stock airbox for sale
> >
> > Hey Chris...find out for sure if it fits first (dont know how you'd do
> > this....dealer maybe?).  If it does I'll just send you the box & you can
> > pay
> > me $20+shipping after you get it.  If you get bad info and the box does
> > NOT
> > fit, yu could always send it back to me, covering my shipping
>costs....but
> >
> > like I said, I hope you could be 95% sure it would fit so I dont waste
>my
> > time.
> > Bryan
> >
> >
> > >From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
> > >To: 'Bryan Nolastname' <[e-mail]>
> > >Subject: RE: (dr350) Stock airbox for sale
> > >Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 13:09:55 -0500
> > >
> > >Hi Brian
> > >
> > >I would be interested in your airbox if it will fit my 99 DR350X (dirt
> > >only).  I've been wanting to cut mine but it's hard to when it is brand
> > >new.
> > >Let me know how you want to work it.
> > >
> > >Chris Tobey
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From:    Bryan Nolastname [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> > > > Sent:    Thursday, September 23, 1999 1:05 PM
> > > > To:    [e-mail]
> > > > Subject:    (dr350) Stock airbox for sale
> > > >
> > > > Since I'm now using Jesse's Vortex airbox, I figured I'd see if any
>of
> >
> > >you
> > > >
> > > > guys might be interested in buying my stock box.  It has been cut to
> > max
> > > > opening on top, and was working very well for me.  Includes stock
> > > > airfilter.
> > > >   Special bargain blow-out bonanza price of only $20!!!! (+shipping
>to
> > > > you...maybe another $5 or so?)  :)
> > > >
> > > > Its off a 95 SE model, but I assume it would fit most other S model
> > >years
> > > > as
> > > > well.
> > > >
> > > > Bryan in Dallas
> > > > 95 DR350SE
> > > >
> > > > ______________________________________________________
> > > > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> > > >
> > > > Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
> > > > http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> > > > Visit the dr350 archives at
> > > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > > > Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> > > > Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >
> > ______________________________________________________
> > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR350 stock rear shock for sale
Date: 23 Sep 1999 20:15:26 EDT

I put on the Progressive 420 single shock... seems to work the same as the
stock shock??

So to recoup some of the money.. Anyone need the stock rear shock with
reservoir.. it's in great condition... with the spring... 75 bucks...you pay
shipping

Guy [e-mail]

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 stock rear shock for sale
Date: 23 Sep 1999 21:51:47 -0400


[e-mail] wrote:
> I put on the Progressive 420 single shock... seems to work the same as the stock shock??

So to recoup some of the money.. Anyone need the stock rear shock with
reservoir.. it's in great condition... with the spring... 75 bucks...you pay
shipping

Guy [e-mail]

Guy,  That rear shock is right down my line, please ship it to my address below and I will get you a check in the mail when I get your address.  I will be out of town thru tuesday, starting tomorrow morning so if I do not respond thats the problem.  Let me know what the UPS charges are.  Thanks Norm

Norman Kouba
8660 Brookside Ln
Boise, Idaho 83703

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 23 Sep 1999 22:24:17 -0400


Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]> wrote:
> > At over $5K, any of you guys think a modified older model SE might be a> better bargain?  I figure:


you might be right Bryan, especially if you figure no one likes a stock bike
(except Gino) and so you can start to add the numbers for the improved
suspension upgrades and engine mods on the DRZ400...

Kurt


Kurt,

     Just for thought, I know of a 98 DR435SE here in Boise, Idaho for sale for $4200 firm.   Renthal bars, hand guards, rear rack, under 2000 miles, Kouba links, 7.6KG Eibach spring, shock revalved. Set up for 180lb rider, Clark plastic tank and stock tank, thats all I can think of.  It's awsome, best bike I have ever riden for Baja type riding. I know the extras don't count, but it has approx. $1200 in extras.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Pirelli MT-70 tires
Date: 23 Sep 1999 23:32:32 EDT

I just picked up a really nice used 1999 DR350SE that I intend to use for
about 30 percent off-road and 70 percent on-road. The bike only has 700 miles
on it but the tires seem like they may need replaced at some point (probably
next season or so).
The Pirelli MT-21's seem to get a lot of good press but they may be a little
too aggressive for my tastes. I want a tire that is capable of being off-road
but with very good on-road characteristics. I looked in the Dennis Kirk
catalog (they were the first ones to send me a catalog) and I kinda like the
look of the MT-70. Has anybody had any experience with these tires ?

                                                                   Bob Roman


Pittsburgh, PA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) bike won't start
Date: 24 Sep 1999 00:03:14 EDT

Chuck;

I agree with the DR Suspension guy who answered; recheck all the connections
up around the carb and under the gas tank. I have a dirt only version so I
don't have all the extra wiring and battery that goes along with the dual
sport versions.

When you removed the plug, what did it look like? Was it dark with a lot of
carbon on it or was it more the tan-ish color it should be? When you tried to
start it, was the plug wet with fuel when you removed it? Was the "other
plug" a new one? Plugs can get carbon fouled and wet fouled and they won't
spark correctly, if at all. Try a brand new plug and see if it doesn't start.
It seems odd that the bike ran okay one time then quit.....I'll bet maybe
you've got a fouled plug (either with carbon or too much fuel). I would tend
to think that you'll find everything okay with your testing of the ignition.
Check the "obvious stuff" too; is the bike getting gas; is the kill switch
okay;  things like that.

I hate to keep bringing up the carb, but when you rebuilt it did you set it
up to factory specs? (the needle clip, main jet, pilot jet, etc.). This would
tend to eliminate the carb as the sore spot if it had been previously "tuned"
to something other than stock.

Hope this helps...good luck.

Mike

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale
Date: 23 Sep 1999 21:20:44 -0700



For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals)  and much much more
                Great Looking Great Running! In Reno Nevada.  $2600.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 00:15:54 EDT

It was only a matter of time before Suzuki upgraded the Doctor 350. I mean
the bike has been a veritable dinosaur for the past 7 or 8 years; it wasn't
even state of the art when it was introduced new in the early 90's. And that
is it's beauty.....it's got enough "technology" for the average Joe and
doesn't cost a fortune to own. It's a fun machine and has a great potential
for upgrading...if you chose to spend the money. Well looks like Suzuki made
that choice for us....I haven't seen the new machine but I suppose it's
probably water-cooled and will give Honda a run for the money. What the new
machine will also do is probably raise the price of the used DR350's......

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Owen G" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Exhausts
Date: 24 Sep 1999 06:49:01 PDT

Hi everyone, I have a stock '92 dr350.  I plan on putting either a Cobra
ISDE or Yoshimura's unit.  I am kinda leaning towards the Yosh but I haven't
heard much about either.  Does anybody know how much HP increase there will
be or will there be any.  Are both of these pipes loud?  The main thing that
I am concerned about is will I have to Jet up with a new pipe?
Owen----> from Canada
'92 dr350
P.S.  My engine is starting to make a noise like the timing chain is loose.
It doesn't say anything in the owners manual about a timing chain.  I was
wondering how to ajust the chain or if there is even a timing chain. Thanx

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) RE:exhuasts
Date: 24 Sep 1999 11:29:25 -0400 (EDT)

Your valves may need adjustment.It's recomended every 2000 miles or
so.The cobra pipe is LOUD!!!!I have a friend with one and the Yoshi pipe
is way better but way more $$$.A good compromise is an FMF magamax2
around 220bucks and fully tunable for power and sound output.You will
have to rejet as the bike ay run lean from more exhuast flow.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: (dr350) light, light 400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 11:55:53 -0400

I talked to my local dealer the other day.  Supposedly the 400 is only going to weigh like
240lbs.  It will take a good deal of mods to increase hp enough to make up just for the
difference in weight between the 350 & the new 400.  Plus, being water-cooled and having
improved suspension will make it much more pleasant to ride.  I think that the $1,000 increase
in retail price over '99 350s is well worth it ($5349).  Now, I just got to come up with the
spare dough!!

Heston
94 350SE

[e-mail] wrote:

> It was only a matter of time before Suzuki upgraded the Doctor 350. I mean
> the bike has been a veritable dinosaur for the past 7 or 8 years; it wasn't
> even state of the art when it was introduced new in the early 90's. And that
> is it's beauty.....it's got enough "technology" for the average Joe and
> doesn't cost a fortune to own. It's a fun machine and has a great potential
> for upgrading...if you chose to spend the money. Well looks like Suzuki made
> that choice for us....I haven't seen the new machine but I suppose it's
> probably water-cooled and will give Honda a run for the money. What the new
> machine will also do is probably raise the price of the used DR350's......
>
> Mike
> ' 93 DR350
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 14:55:57 EDT

>>you might be right Bryan, especially if you figure no one
 likes a stock bike
 (except Gino) and so you can start to add the numbers for the
 improved
 suspension upgrades and engine mods on the DRZ400..<<

What's wrong with my totally stock DR350? [G]

Gino

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 13:06:04 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> >>you might be right Bryan, especially if you figure no one
>  likes a stock bike
>  (except Gino) and so you can start to add the numbers for the
>  improved
>  suspension upgrades and engine mods on the DRZ400..<<
>
> What's wrong with my totally stock DR350? [G]
>
> Gino
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
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Gino,
    I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a stock
bike is spend money you will never recoup. It is generally
more cost effective to just buy a larger bike if the smaller
one doesn't have what you feel you need. Many times you will
also decrease the reliability as well. There are some mods
that can be made that should be done, such as a K&N air
filter. But I think that most of the mods done are just so
the owners can say, "my bike has all these mods, does
yours", whether they really need them or not. Learning how
to ride the bike properly will help them keep up better
anyway.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
    (I know I'll hear lots back on this one, so go ahead!)

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Gearing
Date: 24 Sep 1999 16:10:37 EDT

What sprokets front and rear seem to work best for dual sport events?  Right
now I have a 15 Front and 45 Rear and the bike seems to be winding out a bit
on the freeway (I have the dirt model with Baja Kit, so I'm not sure what
it's revving to but it seems a bit wound up).  I am doing the Ridge Runners
500 in a few weeks and there are some fairly long high speed road and desert
sections mixed in with the trails.  I have the 441 kit so the bike should
have the power.  I was thinking of droppinng to a 43 in the back.  Anyone
tried this set up?

Thanks,

Chris in Nor Cal

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhausts
Date: 24 Sep 1999 17:04:29 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 9:50:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Hi everyone, I have a stock '92 dr350.  I plan on putting either a Cobra
 ISDE or Yoshimura's unit.  I am kinda leaning towards the Yosh but I haven't
 heard much about either.  Does anybody know how much HP increase there will
 be or will there be any.  Are both of these pipes loud?  The main thing that
 I am concerned about is will I have to Jet up with a new pipe?
 Owen----> from Canada
 '92 dr350
 P.S.  My engine is starting to make a noise like the timing chain is loose.
 It doesn't say anything in the owners manual about a timing chain.  I was
 wondering how to ajust the chain or if there is even a timing chain. Thanx
  >>

Owen;
There is no adjustment for the cam chain; it's totally automatic and if the
thing is worn out (the adjuster), you'll have to replace it as a whole (no
replacement parts). BTW, does the noise always occur or does it seem to go
away when you pull the clutch in? Might be your clutch basket bearing going
bad.....

The Yoshimura is the better "performance" exhaust; it is very tuneable, it is
quieter than most and it will cost you a bundle. The Cobra will be less
expensive, but I have read it is VERY loud. The amount of HP increases for
these exhausts are generally less than 10% (soemwhere in the neighborhood of
5-7%)  If you figure the DR puts out around 30 HP, you'll end up with about a
1.5 to 2.0 HP increase. I don't know what these systems cost up in the "Great
White North", but in the States they run 300 plus dollars. IMHO, I'd spend
that money getting the bike to handle better with stuff like the Kouba link,
fork emulators and an upgraded set of front springs and then dial it all in.
In the meantime, cheap HP gains can be had by cutting open the airbox top,
using a better aftermarket filter and giving the bike a thorough going over
(as in the perverbial "tune up").

Just my 2 cents worth......

Mike
' 93 DR350

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 15:11:50 -0600

> Gino,
> I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a stock
> bike is spend money you will never recoup. It is generally
> more cost effective to just buy a larger bike if the smaller
> one doesn't have what you feel you need. Many times you will
> also decrease the reliability as well. There are some mods
> that can be made that should be done, such as a K&N air
> filter. But I think that most of the mods done are just so
> the owners can say, "my bike has all these mods, does
> yours", whether they really need them or not. Learning how
> to ride the bike properly will help them keep up better
> anyway.
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
> (I know I'll hear lots back on this one, so go ahead!)


Wayne, you've been victimized on this one..Gino is the worst of the bunch
and has led many of us down an expensive trail...He is a very sick
individual (g)..

Kurt


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat info
Date: 24 Sep 1999 17:26:47 EDT


In a message dated 9/22/99 3:36:20 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<< I'm in the process of setting up my DR350SE for another lengthy trip (two
600mi. days).  I am trying to figure out what to do about the seat as the
last trip neccessitated leaving my butt in "Intensive Care" for 3 days.

With the impending DR400 I am reluctant to use my current seat or invest too
much in a new one lest I decide to trade or sell.  Does anyone have
experience with temporary "Gel" or "Air" strap on type butt savers?

Thanks,
Doug
 >>

Doug,

One thing that helps is a pair of bicycling shorts under your riding pants if
you aren't doing this already.  They have a chamois pad, the best fitting
being an 8 panel design, which really reduces pain and chafing.  Pearl Izumi
are the best I think.  Sugoi also makes a good pair.  Think of those guys
doing the Tour De France going 5 hours a day for 20+ days on their butts with
only these shorts to buffer them from a  little, hard piece of leather they
call a saddle!

Good Luck....Chris in Nor Cal

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 24 Sep 1999 14:34:55 -0700


Gino,
        I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a
stock
bike is spend money you will never recoup. It is generally
more cost effective to just buy a larger bike if the smaller
one doesn't have what you feel you need. Many times you will
also decrease the reliability as well. There are some mods
that can be made that should be done, such as a K&N air
filter. But I think that most of the mods done are just so
the owners can say, "my bike has all these mods, does
yours", whether they really need them or not. Learning how
to ride the bike properly will help them keep up better
anyway.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
        (I know I'll hear lots back on this one, so go
ahead!)

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From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 24 Sep 1999 18:03:45 -0400

Tis true Wayne!  A few simple mods like jetting & airbox hacking are worth the small $$.  The
rest is just fluff or trying to compensate for a lack of skills.  I have a lot of cohorts who
can't ride for sh*#, but they sure do have tons of "stuff" on their bikes.  They will never
get back the cash or all the headaches that they dumped into it either.  Riding, riding and
more riding is how to outrun 90% of your competitors.  If you are not crashing a lot at first,
you aren't pushing yourself hard enough.  Can't wait to hear the feedback from this one ;-)

Heston
94 350SE

Wayne Marsula' wrote:

> Gino,
>         I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a
> stock
> bike is spend money you will never recoup. It is generally
> more cost effective to just buy a larger bike if the smaller
> one doesn't have what you feel you need. Many times you will
> also decrease the reliability as well. There are some mods
> that can be made that should be done, such as a K&N air
> filter. But I think that most of the mods done are just so
> the owners can say, "my bike has all these mods, does
> yours", whether they really need them or not. Learning how
> to ride the bike properly will help them keep up better
> anyway.
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
>         (I know I'll hear lots back on this one, so go
> ahead!)
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
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From: "Owen G" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) exhaust pricing
Date: 24 Sep 1999 15:15:35 PDT

I don't really care too much about the noise.  I heard that the cobra pipe
puts out a max of 92db on the 350 which isn't bad compared to 2 strokers.
All I am interested in is getting the rear exhaust.  I feel that the header
pipe is adequet.  I don't know how much a Yosh would cost for the back half
but I heard that cobra is around $170?  Does anyone know what the
neighbourhood would be for a yosh?  Is there any places that anyone
recommends out of the states cause there are absolutly no dealers around
here!

  I was thinking about cutting out the top of the air box but I took the
gromit out of the top and the bike ran like sh*t if you can even call it
running.  It would barely start.  Is this cause my jets were leaned out to
much?

  Owen
'92 dr350

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 18:43:57 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 1:57:52 PM Central Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< What's wrong with my totally stock DR350? [G]

 Gino >>

Gino,  I thought I was the only one on this list with a stone stock DR350!
Getting ready to do some heavy modifying though...gonna install an
aftermarket o-ring chain.  Will I need to change my jetting!

Doug

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) riding and more riding
Date: 24 Sep 1999 19:22:36 -0500

I have a comment about the need for experience vs mods and increasing
your riding ability.  I just put a front knobby on the bike (Bridgestone
M39) because I thought the original stock front tire was the reason I was
having a difficult time keeping up with the other guys at the Amsterdam
dual sport ride.  The new tire makes a HUGE difference.  Now I'm not
claiming that knobby tires make a rider because my friend who is an
X-motocross rider could ride my bike with stock tires in deep sand like
nobody's business.  However, I noticed that the knobby tire on the front
made it much easier for a novice like myself to get through the thick
nasty stuff much more easily.  The riders at the dual sport ride all had
knobbies AND experience.  With my new front knobby, I notice how much the
rear tire (Pirelli MT-21) sucks in the sand.  Rather than the front wheel
digging sideways in the sand, the rear fishtails and I bog down because
of lousy traction.  So, I think mods are good and in my case may make up
for inexperience.

chuck vokac '92 DR350S

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 17:23:55 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/24/99 1:57:52 PM Central Daylight Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> << What's wrong with my totally stock DR350? [G]
>
>  Gino >>
>
> Gino,  I thought I was the only one on this list with a stone stock DR350!
> Getting ready to do some heavy modifying though...gonna install an
> aftermarket o-ring chain.  Will I need to change my jetting!
>
> Doug
>
Doug,
    Learn to read your shop manual, or even your owners
pamphlet. They should give you all the specs you need for
changing to an o-ring chain. If not I'm sure Gino could ;o)>
Wayne

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) riding and more riding
Date: 24 Sep 1999 17:34:50 -0700

charles w vokac wrote:
>
> I have a comment about the need for experience vs mods and increasing
> your riding ability.  I just put a front knobby on the bike (Bridgestone
> M39) because I thought the original stock front tire was the reason I was
> having a difficult time keeping up with the other guys at the Amsterdam
> dual sport ride.  The new tire makes a HUGE difference.  Now I'm not
> claiming that knobby tires make a rider because my friend who is an
> X-motocross rider could ride my bike with stock tires in deep sand like
> nobody's business.  However, I noticed that the knobby tire on the front
> made it much easier for a novice like myself to get through the thick
> nasty stuff much more easily.  The riders at the dual sport ride all had
> knobbies AND experience.  With my new front knobby, I notice how much the
> rear tire (Pirelli MT-21) sucks in the sand.  Rather than the front wheel
> digging sideways in the sand, the rear fishtails and I bog down because
> of lousy traction.  So, I think mods are good and in my case may make up
> for inexperience.
>
> chuck vokac '92 DR350S
>
Chuck,
    You bring out a good point, but there is also something to
be said for learning to get the most out of what you have.
THEN when you upgrade tires, you can learn to get the most
out of them. If you get them first you may use them as a
"crutch" instead of learning proper technique. So keep
working on technique, follow the "better" riders until they
have to follow you!
Wayne

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Subscribe
Date: 24 Sep 1999 21:16:49 -0400

Subscribe

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 22:27:10 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 3:11:17 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<
 Wayne, you've been victimized on this one..Gino is the worst of the bunch
 and has led many of us down an expensive trail...He is a very sick
 individual (g). >>

Kurt's right, Wayne.  I'm a very baaaad boy and I put all kinds of junk on my
bikes.  My wife spanks me when I get out of hand.


Gino

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 22:32:33 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 4:45:52 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<
 Gino,  I thought I was the only one on this list with a stone stock DR350!
 Getting ready to do some heavy modifying though...gonna install an
 aftermarket o-ring chain.  Will I need to change my jetting!
  >>

Okay, I have to come clean before this gets out of hand.  I don't have a
totally stock DR350, that concept started as an inside joke last spring.  My
DR is modified with the following:

Acerbis tank
Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards
Pro Taper bars
DR350 Dirt model gel seat
Driveline services side racks
Suzuki tail rack
Gel Grips


Engine and everything else is totally stock

Gino

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 24 Sep 1999 23:48:52 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 9:32:33 PM Central Daylight Time, K650dsn writes:

<< [e-mail] writes:

 <<
  Gino,  I thought I was the only one on this list with a stone stock DR350!
  Getting ready to do some heavy modifying though...gonna install an
  aftermarket o-ring chain.  Will I need to change my jetting!
   >>

 Okay, I have to come clean before this gets out of hand.  I don't have a
totally stock DR350, that concept started as an inside joke last spring.  My
DR is modified with the following:

 Acerbis tank
 Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards
 Pro Taper bars
 DR350 Dirt model gel seat
 Driveline services side racks
 Suzuki tail rack
 Gel Grips


 Engine and everything else is totally stock

 Gino
  >>

Holy Cow!  I AM the only one!  : (

Stone Stock Miller

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) basic riding skills
Date: 25 Sep 1999 00:58:36 -0500

Where's the best place to learn good off road riding techniques?  My
riding buddies all have 4 wheelers so they're not of much use except they
help pick my bike off my leg when I fall down.  There's a track nearby
but I'll surely get in the way of the experienced riders.  I saw a couple
of videos out there - any ones worth buying?  How bout books and such?
At the Amsterdam dual sport ride I did learn quite a bit from the other
riders but these are few and far between.  I am getting better by just
riding on the weekends - maybe just continuing on my own is the way to
go.  I am getting good at falling off my bike.  That's about the only
thing that comes naturally for me.

Chuck Vokac PCB, FL

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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) riding and more riding
Date: 24 Sep 1999 22:13:59 -0700


Please tell me you are kidding!  Tires a crutch -  COME ON!  Tires are
crucial in all types of terrain, including street.  THINK this through.  I
have nothing else.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, September 24, 1999 5:35 PM
Cc:    [e-mail]

charles w vokac wrote:
>
> I have a comment about the need for experience vs mods and increasing
> your riding ability.  I just put a front knobby on the bike (Bridgestone
> M39) because I thought the original stock front tire was the reason I was
> having a difficult time keeping up with the other guys at the Amsterdam
> dual sport ride.  The new tire makes a HUGE difference.  Now I'm not
> claiming that knobby tires make a rider because my friend who is an
> X-motocross rider could ride my bike with stock tires in deep sand like
> nobody's business.  However, I noticed that the knobby tire on the front
> made it much easier for a novice like myself to get through the thick
> nasty stuff much more easily.  The riders at the dual sport ride all had
> knobbies AND experience.  With my new front knobby, I notice how much the
> rear tire (Pirelli MT-21) sucks in the sand.  Rather than the front wheel
> digging sideways in the sand, the rear fishtails and I bog down because
> of lousy traction.  So, I think mods are good and in my case may make up
> for inexperience.
>
> chuck vokac '92 DR350S
>
Chuck,
    You bring out a good point, but there is also something to
be said for learning to get the most out of what you have.
THEN when you upgrade tires, you can learn to get the most
out of them. If you get them first you may use them as a
"crutch" instead of learning proper technique. So keep
working on technique, follow the "better" riders until they
have to follow you!
Wayne

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http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
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r350
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From: "Rod K" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) basic riding skills
Date: 24 Sep 1999 23:58:41 -0700

Great question! I sure would appreciate an answer as well.  I rode dirt
bikes / mini bikes as a kid, but need some basics in a big way too!  Around
here, there are lots of places to ride, and I am learning the hard way.
Besides hooking up with a great rider who can give me tips and pointers,
what else is available?

Thanks,

Rod

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, September 24, 1999 10:58 PM


> Where's the best place to learn good off road riding techniques?  My
> riding buddies all have 4 wheelers so they're not of much use except they
> help pick my bike off my leg when I fall down.  There's a track nearby
> but I'll surely get in the way of the experienced riders.  I saw a couple
> of videos out there - any ones worth buying?  How bout books and such?
> At the Amsterdam dual sport ride I did learn quite a bit from the other
> riders but these are few and far between.  I am getting better by just
> riding on the weekends - maybe just continuing on my own is the way to
> go.  I am getting good at falling off my bike.  That's about the only
> thing that comes naturally for me.
>
> Chuck Vokac PCB, FL
>
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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 25 Sep 1999 08:35:25 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/24/99 9:32:33 PM Central Daylight Time, K650dsn writes:
>
> << [e-mail] writes:
>
>  <<
>   Gino,  I thought I was the only one on this list with a stone stock DR350!
>   Getting ready to do some heavy modifying though...gonna install an
>   aftermarket o-ring chain.  Will I need to change my jetting!
>    >>
>
>  Okay, I have to come clean before this gets out of hand.  I don't have a
> totally stock DR350, that concept started as an inside joke last spring.  My
> DR is modified with the following:
>
>  Acerbis tank
>  Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards
>  Pro Taper bars
>  DR350 Dirt model gel seat
>  Driveline services side racks
>  Suzuki tail rack
>  Gel Grips
>
>
>  Engine and everything else is totally stock
>
>  Gino
>   >>
>
> Holy Cow!  I AM the only one!  : (
>
> Stone Stock Miller

Stone Stock,
    I must disagree, my DR350 is still stock. HOWEVER........I
have an Acerbis tank, new handlebars, Moose handguards, a
K&N filter PLUS my GPS, waiting to be installed. Those are
things to make it more usable on my favorite Baja roads,
where they are really necessary.
    But now, back to the rest of my six weeks without a knee.
New joint to be installed Oct. 5. See, I'm modified too! But
of course, that's also necessary so I can ride my minimally
modified motorcycle.
Wayne Marsula'

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) riding and more riding
Date: 25 Sep 1999 08:44:12 -0700

The Strickler's wrote:
>
> Please tell me you are kidding!  Tires a crutch -  COME ON!  Tires are
> crucial in all types of terrain, including street.  THINK this through.  I
> have nothing else.
>
Strickler's,
    Yes, tires are crucial. However, learning to ride the bike
with any tires is more crucial. Think THIS through.
    By the way, what is your first name? No crutch.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhausts
Date: 25 Sep 1999 16:42:37 -0700

Hi Owen I have tried the cobra isde, not much gain there and its hard to jet one place is good
and another is not it just doesn't seem to respond well to jetting through the whole
powerband. I have not heard much about the yoshamura but I have had good luck with the fmf
pipes. the megamax 2 should be good and I believe Thumper Racing has them. as for your timing
chain it does have one and it also has an automatic adjuster It should not cause any problems
unless you have a lot of miles on the bike. It can be changed without removing the engine from
the bike. any other questions you may have please feel free to contact me.
Jesse

Owen G wrote:

> Hi everyone, I have a stock '92 dr350.  I plan on putting either a Cobra
> ISDE or Yoshimura's unit.  I am kinda leaning towards the Yosh but I haven't
> heard much about either.  Does anybody know how much HP increase there will
> be or will there be any.  Are both of these pipes loud?  The main thing that
> I am concerned about is will I have to Jet up with a new pipe?
> Owen----> from Canada
> '92 dr350
> P.S.  My engine is starting to make a noise like the timing chain is loose.
> It doesn't say anything in the owners manual about a timing chain.  I was
> wondering how to ajust the chain or if there is even a timing chain. Thanx
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) basic riding skills
Date: 26 Sep 1999 00:09:41 EDT

There are two excellent training videos made by Dick Burleson and Thumper
Racing.  They are well worth the time and money.  Also, try to find a riding
buddy who is further along and follow and emulate him.

Best of luck with your learning.

John Holliman
over the hill guy

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhausts
Date: 25 Sep 1999 23:27:40 -0700

Hi Owen, Good to here from you again, do you have a shop a manual? the valves
are not really too difficult to adjust. You must have a few necessary tools
though.
1.  you must  remove the side covers,seat and fuel tank.
1a. return all fasteners removed to their original location when possible that
way you do not forget where they come from.
2. Clean off the top of the motor and frame and make sure the motor is overnight
cold.
3. Remove the spark plug, the left center small magnito plug and the front left
timing indicator plug.
4.Rotate the engine counterclockwise with a socket on the bolt inside the larger
left mag cover hole and with  your finger over the sparkplug hole and when you
feel pressure building look in the small forward hole with a flashlight and line
up the "t" in the center of the hole. This should be top dead center.
5.Remove the bolts from the front top exhaust valve cover. now remove the two
bolts from the intake valve cover. Note It makes it easier to get to these bolts
with the coil out of the way you can do this by removing the two bolts from the
coil and hang it up over the frame. Feel the rocker arms they should have some
slight movement up and down. Look down inside at the cam with a flashlight and
the lobes should be pointing down.
6. At his point you can adjust or check the valve clearance. the intake should
be .003" to .004" clearance and the exhaust .004" to .005" I would recommend
.004" and .005" a snug feeling while pulling a feeler guage of the proper
thickness thru the gap between the valve stem and the rocker arm is what you
want.  If adjustment is neccessary you must loosen the nut on the rocker and
then tighten or loosen the small square adjuster while holding the feeler guage
between the valve stem and rocker arm adjusting stud when the slight drag is
felt lock down the locking nut to the proper torque and recheck the clearance.
you may have to repeat this procedure several times until you get it right, it
just takes a little practice. follow this procedure on the rest of the valves
and put things back in reverse order. Contact me if you have any more questions
or you need more clarification on this procedure.
Regards Jesse

Owen G wrote:

> Hey Jesse,
>   I've heard too that the cobra didn't have much gain.  I am now looking to
> spend more money on a Yoshimura which is suppose to increase HP about 2-3%.
> I am from canada and I have 6000k on the bike which is probably about
> 4000miles which isn't really that high.  The sound from the bike isn't that
> bad but is sounds like the timing chain is a little loose or something
> because I have an old xr250 and my timing chain was loose on it and it
> sounded exactly like my dr350.  I have to tighten my valves though and was
> wondering if you have any suggestions.  I have never worked on valves
> before.  I have never really worked on jetting either and was curious if you
> just fool around with the size of the main jet or if you change other jets
> also.
> Owen
> >
> >Hi Owen I have tried the cobra isde, not much gain there and its hard to
> >jet one place is good
> >and another is not it just doesn't seem to respond well to jetting through
> >the whole
> >powerband. I have not heard much about the yoshamura but I have had good
> >luck with the fmf
> >pipes. the megamax 2 should be good and I believe Thumper Racing has them.
> >as for your timing
> >chain it does have one and it also has an automatic adjuster It should not
> >cause any problems
> >unless you have a lot of miles on the bike. It can be changed without
> >removing the engine from
> >the bike. any other questions you may have please feel free to contact me.
> >Jesse
> >
> >Owen G wrote:
> >
> > > Hi everyone, I have a stock '92 dr350.  I plan on putting either a Cobra
> > > ISDE or Yoshimura's unit.  I am kinda leaning towards the Yosh but I
> >haven't
> > > heard much about either.  Does anybody know how much HP increase there
> >will
> > > be or will there be any.  Are both of these pipes loud?  The main thing
> >that
> > > I am concerned about is will I have to Jet up with a new pipe?
> > > Owen----> from Canada
> > > '92 dr350
> > > P.S.  My engine is starting to make a noise like the timing chain is
> >loose.
> > > It doesn't say anything in the owners manual about a timing chain.  I
> >was
> > > wondering how to ajust the chain or if there is even a timing chain.
> >Thanx
> > >
> > > ______________________________________________________
> > > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> > >
> > > Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
> >http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> > > Visit the dr350 archives at
> >http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > > Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> > > Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:59:09 -0600
Date: 26 Sep 1999 00:59:27 -0600

approve 2347 subscribe dr350 [e-mail]


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Water and hot engine
Date: 26 Sep 1999 14:09:01 +0200

Is it dangerous for the motor (when it is very hot), to cross a river?I have
heard that it can break a motor and as me, today I have crossed a river of
50-60 cm (+- 20-25 in) of depth (and the motor was very hot) (the water
covered the crankcase and part of the cylinder during 6-7 seconds), I am
concerned.
Also, later, during a while, the motor was fuming a lot.
Is it dangerous or can I be calm?

Bye



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thoughts on new DR400
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:14:38 EDT

In a message dated 9/24/99 3:05:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a stock
 bike is spend money you will never recoup. >>


In the condom business they say one size fits all. I think as much we would
like to believe this deep down we know it is not true. At least with
motorcycles we can make our bikes fit with a little bit of modification. I
for one think the expense is worth it.

Mike A.
Nashville

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:24:52 EDT


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In a message dated 9/24/99 5:10:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<  have a lot of cohorts who
 can't ride for sh*#, but they sure do have tons of "stuff" on their bikes.
They will never
 get back the cash or all the headaches that they dumped into it either.  >>

 The thing you dont seem to be getting is that many of us love to wrench as
much as ride (or almost).  As for covering up for a lack of riding ability I
would point out that the most highly modified machines on the planet are also
riden by the best rider. If your theory held true the pro riders would be
riding somthing like Yamaha RT180's to prove their ability to handle a piece
of crap.

Just a thought
Mike A.
Nashville


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Reply-To: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)

Tis true Wayne!  A few simple mods like jetting & airbox hacking are worth the small $$.  The
rest is just fluff or trying to compensate for a lack of skills.  I have a lot of cohorts who
can't ride for sh*#, but they sure do have tons of "stuff" on their bikes.  They will never
get back the cash or all the headaches that they dumped into it either.  Riding, riding and
more riding is how to outrun 90% of your competitors.  If you are not crashing a lot at first,
you aren't pushing yourself hard enough.  Can't wait to hear the feedback from this one ;-)

Heston
94 350SE

Wayne Marsula' wrote:

> Gino,
>         I must agree with you. All you do by "upgrading" a
> stock
> bike is spend money you will never recoup. It is generally
> more cost effective to just buy a larger bike if the smaller
> one doesn't have what you feel you need. Many times you will
> also decrease the reliability as well. There are some mods
> that can be made that should be done, such as a K&N air
> filter. But I think that most of the mods done are just so
> the owners can say, "my bike has all these mods, does
> yours", whether they really need them or not. Learning how
> to ride the bike properly will help them keep up better
> anyway.
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
>         (I know I'll hear lots back on this one, so go
> ahead!)
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
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--part1_7a8c9f66.251ff734_boundary--

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:39:37 -0700

Heston,

I think the only thing you should expect to hear from this comment is a
loud round of applause.

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's

Heston LaMar wrote:
>
> Tis true Wayne!  A few simple mods like jetting & airbox hacking are worth the small $$.  The
> rest is just fluff or trying to compensate for a lack of skills.  I have a lot of cohorts who
> can't ride for sh*#, but they sure do have tons of "stuff" on their bikes.  They will never
> get back the cash or all the headaches that they dumped into it either.  Riding, riding and
> more riding is how to outrun 90% of your competitors.  If you are not crashing a lot at first,
> you aren't pushing yourself hard enough.  Can't wait to hear the feedback from this one ;-)
>
> Heston
> 94 350SE

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) basic riding skills
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:52:15 -0700

Rod, Chuck,

When I was young I subcribed to the popular dirt bike magazines (Dirt
Rider, Dirt Bike, etc...).  They frequently had short "hot to ride"
articles that I found to be most helpful.  Tips like, line yuur bike up
at a right angle when crossing logs, slide far back on the seat when
going down a steep hill, avoid riding in ruts left by other riders, and
so ans so on..... The articles focused on basic skills, that once you
were aware of them, they could be practiced.  I haven't looked at
current magazines, but maybe they have some similar articles.

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's

Rod K wrote:
>
> Great question! I sure would appreciate an answer as well.
...........................................
> > Where's the best place to learn good off road riding techniques?
> > Chuck Vokac PCB, FL

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Water and hot engine
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:56:00 -0700

Pablo,

I have NEVER (~30 years) experienced any engine problems on any
motorcycle engine resulting from riding through water.  True, the water
will create a lot of steam from contact with the hot engine, but that
shortly dries.

Don't worry...

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's
Pablo wrote:
>
> Is it dangerous for the motor (when it is very hot), to cross a river?I have
> heard that it can break a motor and as me, today I have crossed a river of
> 50-60 cm (+- 20-25 in) of depth (and the motor was very hot) (the water
> covered the crankcase and part of the cylinder during 6-7 seconds), I am
> concerned.
> Also, later, during a while, the motor was fuming a lot.
> Is it dangerous or can I be calm?
>
> Bye

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) New rear
Date: 26 Sep 1999 18:59:09 -0700

I just went for my first ride today with the new Kouba Link and heavier
spring on my rear shock.  What a difference! I'm not sure which made wa
responsible for the change (most likely the combination) but the change
is remarkable.

Next will be the cartridge emulator kit and new springs for the forks.
I am anticipating great things.....

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 26 Sep 1999 16:11:11 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/24/99 5:10:21 PM Central Daylight Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> <<  have a lot of cohorts who
>  can't ride for sh*#, but they sure do have tons of "stuff" on their bikes.
> They will never
>  get back the cash or all the headaches that they dumped into it either.  >>
>
>  The thing you dont seem to be getting is that many of us love to wrench as
> much as ride (or almost).  As for covering up for a lack of riding ability I
> would point out that the most highly modified machines on the planet are also
> riden by the best rider. If your theory held true the pro riders would be
> riding somthing like Yamaha RT180's to prove their ability to handle a piece
> of crap.
>
> Just a thought
> Mike A.
> Nashville

Mike,
Nice thought, but you are talking apples and oranges. When
it comes to racing, anything goes. For sport riding, things
are different. Mods for comfort are one thing, mods to make
a bike go faster are another. If your stock bike isn't fast
enough for you, then get a bike that is faster. That is more
cost effective. If you want to do it "just for fun" go
ahead, if you have the money to burn.
Wayne

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Water and hot engine
Date: 27 Sep 1999 01:30:30 +0200

>Pablo,
>
>I have NEVER (~30 years) experienced any engine problems on any
>motorcycle engine resulting from riding through water.  True, the water
>will create a lot of steam from contact with the hot engine, but that
>shortly dries.
>
>Don't worry...

I have heard that the strong difference of temperature (water- hot engine),
it causes that the components of the engine suffer an abrupt
dilation-contraction (A friend with a DR650 commented that in an occasion
his bike fell in a river, and that at the little time he observed that the
crankcase was broken....could that be the cause? ). (It is as if you
introduce a hot glass in cold water... it is very easy that the glass
breaks).

Thank you for your answer, Dave.  Well, 30 years are a lot of experience,
and your answers will be reliable :)
Bye (and, other time, sorry for my english)




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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 mods
Date: 26 Sep 1999 19:41:34 EDT

In a message dated 9/26/99 6:09:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Mike,
 Nice thought, but you are talking apples and oranges. When
 it comes to racing, anything goes. For sport riding, things
 are different. Mods for comfort are one thing, mods to make
 a bike go faster are another. If your stock bike isn't fast
 enough for you, then get a bike that is faster. That is more
 cost effective. If you want to do it "just for fun" go
 ahead, if you have the money to burn.
 Wayne >>

 I would have to respectfully disagree wayne. I also own a Husky 510 wxe
which I love to ride on wide open trails. It has massive power and great
Stability at speed. But in the tight wooded trails of the east this big dog
becomes a bull in a china shop. It just cant turn as nimble as a smaller
lighter bike. When I moved to Tennessee from out west I decided I needed
another bike for the woods. I looked at several different machines and
dicided to buy a KTM 300 EXC. Before I could do this I went on a ride with my
motorcycle club. One of the members wanted to try my Huskey. I said no
problem. As fate would have it his bike was a 94 DR 350. I cant help it, I
fell in love with this underpowered weak legged machine. I went down and
bought one the next week and saved a couple grand to boot. Now with the money
I have saved I can set this bike up to work for me and cure the bikes short
commings. The KTM is an awsome machine but you still would have to spend
money to set it up unless you just happen to be the right weight and hieght.
I respect your desire to ride a stock bike but that just would not work for
me.

P.S. Jessee and Gino are the DR gods!

Mike A.
Nashville

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From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) track riding
Date: 26 Sep 1999 20:35:21 -0500

I stopped by the local motocross track and watched a few riders.  One guy
was about 15 and was shredding on a YZ125.  Another guy was riding a
CR250 and still another was on a CR125.  I'd love to try out the DR on
the track and see what it can do.  I have very little skill and have
never been on a track - let alone over big jumps and whoops.  My bike has
stock suspension and exhaust.  I have a knobby on the front and a Pirelli
MT21 on the rear.  Also, I'm too big for the bike (6'5 -220 lbs).  Is
this a bad idea?

Chuck Vokac - 92 DR350S

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From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Water and hot engine
Date: 27 Sep 1999 10:03:15 -0400

I have heard tale of people cracking blocks doing so, but never seen it
myself.  I have been
riding cycles since I was 10 (almost 19 years now).  I guess if your
motor was just steaming
hot and you blasted into freezing cold water, it might be possible.
However, a lot of these
tales you here are also probably due to intrinsic manufacturing
inconsistencies in those
blocks.  Like a slight flaw in the block that cracked more easily under
such circumstances.
Water is one of the most fun things for me and well worth the very
minimal risk.  Anyone else
have an engineering background that might could better explain this
worry??

Heston
94 350SE

Pablo wrote:

> Is it dangerous for the motor (when it is very hot), to cross a river?I have
> heard that it can break a motor and as me, today I have crossed a river of
> 50-60 cm (+- 20-25 in) of depth (and the motor was very hot) (the water
> covered the crankcase and part of the cylinder during 6-7 seconds), I am
> concerned.
> Also, later, during a while, the motor was fuming a lot.
> Is it dangerous or can I be calm?
>
> Bye
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) MAPS Realtime Blackhole List
Date: 27 Sep 1999 08:05:58 -0700

To all,
    I have recently been getting messages returned to me by
"MAPS Realtime Blackhole List", usually as having the
"return address refused". Has anyone else had this happen,
or know anything about it? These messages are usually sent
to addresses that I commonly send to, and have had other
mail go through.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) track riding
Date: 27 Sep 1999 8:48:18 PDT

charles w vokac wrote:

> I stopped by the local motocross track and watched a few riders.  One guy
> was about 15 and was shredding on a YZ125.  Another guy was riding a
> CR250 and still another was on a CR125.  I'd love to try out the DR on
> the track and see what it can do.  I have very little skill and have
> never been on a track - let alone over big jumps and whoops.  My bike has
> stock suspension and exhaust.  I have a knobby on the front and a Pirelli
> MT21 on the rear.  Also, I'm too big for the bike (6'5 -220 lbs).  Is
> this a bad idea?

  No.  I've taken my DR on the MX track at Metcalf, Cal.  and I think
I'm actually faster than when I ride my CR125R.  The reason is because
I can put more power to the ground and keep the DR on the ground
better than the CR.  I'm not saying a DR will beat a CR, it's just
that I ride the DR better.  There were a few guys on CR/YZ 250's when
I was out there and I was catching a couple of them.  They pulled off
before I could pass, probably because they didn't want to get passed
by someone with turn signals :-)

  That was with a completely stock DR350SE except for knobbies (Dunlop
755 up front and a Dunlop K695 in the rear).  I've now put in heavy
duty fork springs, set-up my forks and I'm running Michelin MP11's.  I
can't wait to try the track again.

  If you go on the track, don't be intimidated by the guys out there,
just hold your line, stay alert and if you hear someone coming up your
tailpipe, be smart and get out of the racing line as soon as it's
comfortable for you.  Don't make sudden changes if you can help it
because they'll just use you as a moving obstacle if you're
predictable.

  I love to MX, I don't get big air, actually I only jump table tops
or singles because doubles just make me cringe (and I can't do them on
my CR125 either), but I love to ride.  I'm aware that most kids will
blow my doors off, but so what.  I'm out there to just have fun.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: "Wez" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) White Bros
Date: 27 Sep 1999 17:52:43 +0100

    OK then after the responce that I had, about the UK stockest.
And after I was told that it would be cheaper to buy direct, can I have a
direct number (including international dialing code).
thanks
Wes
DR350SP 96
RD250DX 79


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Gearing and H20
Date: 27 Sep 1999 13:17:31 EDT

GEARING
I know discussing gearing is not very exciting, but your comments would sure
be appreciated on what sproket combo is working for you.  I have two fronts
(14, 15) and two rears (45, 47) and I can't seem to find the right combo.
Buying the sprokets and trying them is a little different (read: $$$$) than
buying new jetting so your feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance...Crash
H20
My brother launched his old IT250 into a creek one time.  We were racing
along this drainage and luckily for me he had the lead.  We came upon ( at
about 40 mph) an inlet to the side which was about 4' wide but also 4' deep.
When he tried to gas it and get the front end up to clear the 4' ditch the
rear wheel did not hook up and just spun.  He ended up doing an endo and his
cases and cylinder head ended up submerged in the muckiest water you can
imagine as his front wheel had lodged into the opposite bank.  After an hour
of getting the bike out (very steep sides to the ditch and mud slicker than
Bill Clinton) and cleaning it out as best we could, the thing fired up and we
rode home.  The airbox was dunked but didn't spend but a few second
underwater.  This happened as we were flipping the bike out using a 10'
downed tree that we found to leverage the bike.  Anyway, the cases didn't
explode or anything upon contact with the cold water and the piston didn't
freeze.  For what it's worth.

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From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) track riding
Date: 27 Sep 1999 13:12:57 -0500

Been there, done that. Only do it if you plan on not using your arms for a
few weeks. After you completely submarine the front end on the first jump,
your arms are going to feel like they were jambed up into your shoulders
from absorbing all of the force. If this doesn't bother you, then almost or
completely losing control on landing because the suspension sucks will. I
tried a few of the singles and doubles on my 96 DR350 (which I do not own
any more) and found out that I was brave but also stupid. I now attack
these same jumps from the cockpit of a CR250. I don't know what I was
thinking trying to jump a DR. It can be done, but you need the suspension
mods that some of the guys on the list have(ie Bryan Nolastname).
Dave in Ft Worth
CR250
Waiting on the DR400 to come out.
-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Sunday, September 26, 1999 7:35 PM

I stopped by the local motocross track and watched a few riders.  One guy
was about 15 and was shredding on a YZ125.  Another guy was riding a
CR250 and still another was on a CR125.  I'd love to try out the DR on
the track and see what it can do.  I have very little skill and have
never been on a track - let alone over big jumps and whoops.  My bike has
stock suspension and exhaust.  I have a knobby on the front and a Pirelli
MT21 on the rear.  Also, I'm too big for the bike (6'5 -220 lbs).  Is
this a bad idea?

Chuck Vokac - 92 DR350S

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From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) track riding
Date: 27 Sep 1999 15:40:45 -0700

I enjoy tracks a lot, though I don't try to compete with the 2-smokes.  A DR
is certainly capable of eating up XR400s, though, for example.

I found that I was bottoming my rear (and probably front as well) until I
revalved front and rear with Gold Valves.  I'm about 210 w/ gear on, but
have a 7.6kg/mm rear spring and .46kg/mm front springs (which weren't enough
on their own).

The valving is still a bit on the light side for medium-sized jumps, and I
might throw another shim on the stacks when I do my annual suspension fluid
changes.

However, the DR is certainly best for trail riding, which is what I mostly
do, and I'll likely keep the suspension tuned primarily for that.

BTW, I'd estimate track riding takes roughly 10X of the energy that trail
riding does!

Bryan
Sacramento
'96 DR441



David Millhollon wrote:
>
> Been there, done that. Only do it if you plan on not using your arms for a
> few weeks. After you completely submarine the front end on the first jump,
> your arms are going to feel like they were jambed up into your shoulders
> from absorbing all of the force. If this doesn't bother you, then almost or
> completely losing control on landing because the suspension sucks will. I
> tried a few of the singles and doubles on my 96 DR350 (which I do not own
> any more) and found out that I was brave but also stupid. I now attack
> these same jumps from the cockpit of a CR250. I don't know what I was
> thinking trying to jump a DR. It can be done, but you need the suspension
> mods that some of the guys on the list have(ie Bryan Nolastname).
> Dave in Ft Worth
> CR250
> Waiting on the DR400 to come out.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   charles w vokac [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:   Sunday, September 26, 1999 7:35 PM
> To:     [e-mail]
> Subject:        (dr350) track riding
>
> I stopped by the local motocross track and watched a few riders.  One guy
> was about 15 and was shredding on a YZ125.  Another guy was riding a
> CR250 and still another was on a CR125.  I'd love to try out the DR on
> the track and see what it can do.  I have very little skill and have
> never been on a track - let alone over big jumps and whoops.  My bike has
> stock suspension and exhaust.  I have a knobby on the front and a Pirelli
> MT21 on the rear.  Also, I'm too big for the bike (6'5 -220 lbs).  Is
> this a bad idea?
>
> Chuck Vokac - 92 DR350S
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription
> http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
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> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
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>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Tracks
Date: 27 Sep 1999 20:03:52 EDT

Chuck ....
I took my 91 dirt-version on Hungry Valleys begginer track and it stinks!
Yes I need to learn to land off the jumps better but the slapdown with damper
rod forks is terrible and the front end hunts and wallows... I rode a Y2K
XR400 on the track and what a difference.. the front end soaks up hits
without a hint of harshness like my DR...
I'll be looking for RM RMX forks... 87 thru 91 if the guys that've done it on
the list are  right...


Guy


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From: The Strickler's <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FW: 1996 DR 350SE for Sale
Date: 27 Sep 1999 21:48:01 -0700



For Sale:  1996 DR 350SE great condition. always garaged
                Two sets of tires Dual Sport and full knobbies.
                Two tanks 4.2 Desert tank, and stock.  Big Gun
        Exhaust system, Acerbis Rally brush guards
        (those with turn signals) and much much more
                Great Looking Great Running! In Reno Nevada.  $2600.

E-mail me if interested at [e-mail]



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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) READING OIL DIPSTICK
Date: 28 Sep 1999 21:25:18 -0400 (EDT)

The manual says to run the engine 3 min to get a good reading. If the
motor has been running for a half hour or more and you shut the bike
down and go for a reading right away will it still be correct?My guess
is the 3 min allows enough time for the oil to cirrculate up into the
frame from the motor after a long period of inactive time(over 6 hrs).


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Florida Dual Sport Ride
Date: 28 Sep 1999 22:35:36 -0400

The Flyer For The Upcoming Seminole Wind Dual Sport Ride for November 6 is
now available on the WDSRC webpage. This event will be held in the Northern
Ocala National Forest, 40 minutes east of Ocala, 40 minutes NW of Daytona,
60 minutes from Jacksonville, 60 minutes from Orlando, 2 hours from Tampa/St
Pete.

Visit the website
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
for more information and to download an entry form.

Come On And Ride!

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet"


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Checking oil
Date: 29 Sep 1999 12:35:31 EDT

John...
What do you think of the handguards... I thought a bit heavy on an already
heavy four-stroke frontend...plus not alot of trees closely spaced together
out here in Southern Calif.

One thing I do know about checking oil level... do not screw the stick in...
just rest it on the frame and then pull out and read it... I ride the bike or
warm up for 3 minutes... then let it sit for 1 or 2 minutes before a
reading... you guys agree?

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From: "Hoge, Neill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 29 Sep 1999 14:07:14 -0400

Hi. I've read that changing the airbox is the first choice if you want more
power. Cheaper alternatives include cutting the top off the standard airbox.
Can someone tell me exactly what IS the airbox and is cutting it a good
idea?
Thanks,

Neill

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From: "J. Carton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 30 Sep 1999 18:09:33 -0400

Has anyone tried out the 1" diameter filters sold through Dennis Kirk (I
think Uni makes them) in place of cutting the airbox fully open?

Joe C
94 DR 350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wez" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) WB caterlog
Date: 29 Sep 1999 23:38:37 +0100

I have recently recived the White Brothers Caterlog, how do I find how much
things costs. Is there I seperate price list or somthing or do a have to
ring them every time I see somthing (hope not). I hope somone tells me soon,
or I'll go nuts on all the good things in there.

Wez
DR350SP 96
RD250DX 79


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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 29 Sep 1999 18:17:57 -0700

Hi Joe, they are used in a lot of air boxes, and do let in more air, how ever in some cases
they can create a turbulence condition that does more harm than good. In being an airbox
manufacturer I have studied this area with considerable diligence. Its like porting you can't
just take out material to create a positive smooth flow sometimes you have to add material to
keep the flow moving without creating eddy's which are small areas of turbulence. I don't mean
to get carried away here but I feel That the whole storey should be presented in an
understandable manner.  The DR350 stock airbox substantiated by a flowbench test flows 134cfm
{cubic feet per minute}with a freshly serviced air filter element. It flows 142 cfm with the
door off and flows 145cfm with the filter clear out. The head flows 148cfm with the valves at
full lift and the carb flows 145cfm. from this information you can see why the vortex hiflow
air box that flows 265cfm which sets the engine up for any stage of performance modification
in existance. The little 1'' ports are not very effective and can set up conditions that would
be counter productive. Hope this information helps.
regards Jesse

"J. Carton" wrote:

> Has anyone tried out the 1" diameter filters sold through Dennis Kirk (I
> think Uni makes them) in place of cutting the airbox fully open?
>
> Joe C
> 94 DR 350SE
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 29 Sep 1999 22:43:13 -0500

I would not modify the airbox if I had to do it again.  I think that for
some people making mods brings the bike closer to the ideal bike.  But
for me, the DR can never be an ideal bike.  It's way too small for my big
fat ass and has lousy suspension.  Its thin tires bog down in the sand
and mud.  I am a beginner rider and I am sure many of my problems come
from my skill level, but if I had to do things again, I wouldn't modify
the airbox because I think it lowers the resale value.  Who wants a bike
that someone has mutilated?

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, FL  '92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Race-Tech gold valves
Date: 30 Sep 1999 08:57:19 -0400

This is some great riding weather, huh?  Unfortunately, hunters
have invaded the National Forest where I ride so I'm trying not
to piss any of them off!

Question:  I have a '98 DR350SE with the Showa forks and shock.
I'm upgrading the fork springs and shock spring and installing
the Kouba link.  I'm wondering if the Race-Tech gold valves
are a significant upgrade of either the forks or shock.

Does anyone with the Showa forks/shock have experience with
the gold valves?

Regards...Mark
Atlanta, GA
'98 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Forward post...
Date: 30 Sep 1999 13:12:43 -0600

> > Question:  I have a '98 DR350SE with the Showa forks and shock.
> > I'm upgrading the fork springs and shock spring and installing
> > the Kouba link.  I'm wondering if the Race-Tech gold valves
> > are a significant upgrade of either the forks or shock.
> >
> > Does anyone with the Showa forks/shock have experience with
> > the gold valves?
>
>   I'm also interested in hearing if anyone has used the gold valves and
> if they felt it was worth it.
>
>   My impression is that if you are running at race speeds, then I would
> think they would be worth the investment because they'll help smooth out
> the little stuff which should lead to a better handling bike.  But for
> casual trail riding and non aggressive MX, I think I can put up with a
> bit of stiffness.
>
> --
> Scott Aldrich
> '98 Suzuki DR350SE
>
>
>


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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: Re: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 30 Sep 1999 17:40:43 -0400 (EDT)

Jesse what kind of cfm's can be expected from your box a stock head and
optimum jetting(around 140).A stock box with a clean filter 134cfm, carb
can flow 145cfm,and the head 148(of witch only 145 usable due to maxed
out carb flow.By the way is that the cv or 'dirt only carb?).That tells
me I can expect 11cfm's more at most from your airbox?And from that
4-7hp?Do these numbers go up with aftermarket exhuast i'm installing a
FMF Megamax2 along with your box and jetting.Thanks!!!


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Re:
Date: 30 Sep 1999 19:37:43 -0700

Chuck,

Resale value?  Who did you buy the bike for, you or the next owner?
Furthermore, a dirt bike has got to be one of the worst possible
purchases to make as an investment.  You bought the bike for YOU, enjoy
it.  Or buy another that you enjoy more, but remember do it for you, not
anyone else...

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's


charles w vokac wrote:
>
>  I wouldn't modify
> the airbox because I think it lowers the resale value.  Who wants a bike
> that someone has mutilated?
>
> Chuck Vokac
> Panama City Beach, FL  '92 DR350S

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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 30 Sep 1999 16:54:59 -0700

HI Scott, what I am referring to here is the volume of fuel mixture that can flow through the intake
ports past the valves at maximum lift into the combustion chamber with a 24 inches of vacuum pulling
under the head simulating the piston at a downward intake simulation done by a flow bench. The flow
bench is used in this manner to give some close representation as to how the engine will respond in
a running situation.

 Now we all know that there are variables, such as altitude, barametric pressure, temperature etc.
that can affect things. I have a DR350 here now that has the Airbox a bored pumper carb, oversize
headerpipe mega 4 pipe [fmf] and has a 147.5 main, fourth groove down on the needle and stock pilot,
that is almost as responsive as my 435 off the bottom and is a totally stock motor. It just falls
off sooner than the 435. When you go to the 435 you increase the vacuum and can draw in more fuel
mixture due to the larger displacement opening up the carburetor also helps this significantly. If
you stick with the cv carb. the results will not be as dramatic as the pumper. Keep the questions
coming guys........ this is fun.
Jesse

Scott Aldrich wrote:

> jessekientz wrote:
> >
> > Hi Joe, they are used in a lot of air boxes, and do let in more air, how ever in some cases
> > they can create a turbulence condition that does more harm than good. In being an airbox
> > manufacturer I have studied this area with considerable diligence. Its like porting you can't
> > just take out material to create a positive smooth flow sometimes you have to add material to
> > keep the flow moving without creating eddy's which are small areas of turbulence. I don't mean
> > to get carried away here but I feel That the whole storey should be presented in an
> > understandable manner.  The DR350 stock airbox substantiated by a flowbench test flows 134cfm
> > {cubic feet per minute}with a freshly serviced air filter element. It flows 142 cfm with the
> > door off and flows 145cfm with the filter clear out. The head flows 148cfm with the valves at
> > full lift and the carb flows 145cfm. from this information you can see why the vortex hiflow
> > air box that flows 265cfm which sets the engine up for any stage of performance modification
> > in existance. The little 1'' ports are not very effective and can set up conditions that would
> > be counter productive. Hope this information helps.
> > regards Jesse
>
> Hi Jesse,
>
>   Could you please define what the "head" actually is?  And if I do the
> 435 kit, does that improve the "head" flow to greater than 148cfm?  If
> the head flows greater than 148cfm after the upgrade, and I improve the
> air flow at the box by putting on your airbox, then it would seem that
> the stock carb would be limiting everything to 145cfm which would negate
> all of the other improvements.  If that's true, then how do you overcome
> the carb?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> --
> Scott Aldrich
> '98 Suzuki DR350SE


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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) air box mods
Date: 30 Sep 1999 17:16:26 -0700

 Hi John,  The Vortex airbox will satisfy whatever the engine is setup to pull up to 265 cubic
feet per minute.  In my answer to Scotts questions I illustrated that with a oversize
headerpipe along with your megamax 2 will definitely open things up{ flow wise} and you will
probably have to jet up again on the main jet after its installation to match the increased
flow .

Jesse

John wrote:

> Jesse what kind of cfm's can be expected from your box a stock head and
> optimum jetting(around 140).A stock box with a clean filter 134cfm, carb
> can flow 145cfm,and the head 148(of witch only 145 usable due to maxed
> out carb flow.By the way is that the cv or 'dirt only carb?).That tells
> me I can expect 11cfm's more at most from your airbox?And from that
> 4-7hp?Do these numbers go up with aftermarket exhuast i'm installing a
> FMF Megamax2 along with your box and jetting.Thanks!!!
>
> Support Dual Sport News with your subscription http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page2.html
> Visit the dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> Unsubscribe by sending a message to [e-mail]
> Leave subject blank, message is unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 30 Sep 1999 20:30:58 -0400 (EDT)

WELL PUT!!!!!!!


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