ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/dr350.199908

Internet Message Format | 1999-08-30 | 307KB

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) For Sale
Date: 01 Aug 1999 14:40:13 EDT

Sorry guy's but the DR350 is just not for me. So after riding a CR250 today I
have seen the light. I am going to put my DR350s (converted to dirt only) up
for sale.I am also putting my DR250 up for sale. (96' and 90' respectively.)
I will take $2500 for both.Does this sound like a good price? I'm not looking
to sell it on this list, just seeking advice. Thanks guys. Each and everyone
of you have provided me with valuable information since I have been on the
list. Thanks Again.I won't leave the list until they are sold.
  Dave decided in Ft Worth

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (Midwest) Places to ride
Date: 01 Aug 1999 22:03:02 -0500

Hi All,

After 11 years of marriage and some constant encouragement from me my wife
has finally agreed to give motorcycling a go.

I bought an XT350 for her and she's put 50 or 60 miles of dirt under her
wheels so far.  She's starting to really dig it and I'm very happy she's
tried something new.  I think what put her over the top was seeing how much
fun our son and I had riding in Black River Falls Wisconsin earlier this
year.

I'm coming up on some time off and want to take the family for a week long
stint of trail riding and am looking for some good locations.  We're
probably going to head up into northern Wisconsin but I've been wondering
what kind of riding is available in Ohio and Indiana or even Kentucky.
 Trev, our son is 8 years old and Michigan seems to require some safety
course(s) before he can head out on the trail system with Mom and I, so I
don't think we'll be hitting the scenery there.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Eric


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (Midwest) Places to ride
Date: 01 Aug 1999 21:27:53 -0600


> Trev, our son is 8 years old and Michigan seems to require some safety
>course(s) before he can head out on the trail system with Mom and I, so I
>don't think we'll be hitting the scenery there.
>
>Anyone have any suggestions?


yeah, beat the mosquitos and come to Utah...fantastic riding everywhere...

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) (Midwest) Places to ride
Date: 01 Aug 1999 22:37:39 -0500

Kurt,

I'd love to head out your way, but I think I'd need more than a week to
really enjoy it.  If I could find someone willing to watch my dogs for a
couple of weeks I'd be there.

Eric

----------
Sent:     Sunday, August 01, 1999 10:27 PM


> Trev, our son is 8 years old and Michigan seems to require some safety
>course(s) before he can head out on the trail system with Mom and I, so I
>don't think we'll be hitting the scenery there.
>
>Anyone have any suggestions?


yeah, beat the mosquitos and come to Utah...fantastic riding everywhere...

Kurt




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 02 Aug 1999 11:29:19 -0400

Hi,

I installed the vortex air box, a Big Gun exhaust and a
pumper carb on my '98 DR350SE this weekend.  My friend
installed a pumper carb on his '99 DR350SE and cut open
the air box.

The air box fits nicely and was easy to install.  I didn't
bore the air bleeder jet yet.  It makes me a bit uneasy
to bore a jet I can't replace.  I'm trying to get a new
jet so that if I don't like the change I can back it out.

The Big Gun exhaust was easy to install as well.  It didn't
quite fit and I had to saw 3/8" off the header to seat it
into the silencer pipe far enough.  I installed the quiet
core and spark arrestor.  It's not quiet - but its not that
loud either.  Its too loud for the streets, but I think it
is okay for the National Forest where I ride.

The pumper carb came in a kit.  I ordered the kit from
Magic Racing in Michigan (810-254-9117) and they got it
from White Brothers.  I expect that you can get the kit
from any WB dealer.  I don't see the kit in their catalog.

The kit included a new throttle, cables and grips.  The
carb has an aluminum donut fitted to the bell so that it
will fit the SE air box boot.  I was able to easily tap
the donut off since I was replacing the stock air boot
with the vortex hi-flow air box.  The 33mm carb fit right
into the stock manifold and the starter was not in the way.
The T-handle fit nicely without having to remove any plugs
or do any filing.

I was surprised to find a 147.5 main jet installed.  WB
also included a 145 and a 150.  A 37.5 pilot jet was
installed and WB also sent a 35 and a 40.  The clip on
the needle was set in the 3rd position down (there are
5 positions total).

My friend installed his carb with the 147.5 main jet and
clip in the 3rd pos (as it came).  He's very happy with
the performance.

I had heard that others were having good results with a
140 or 142.5 main and the clip in the 4th pos - so I first
tried 140 and 4th.  I could tell that it was a bit lean.
Next I tried a 145 main.  This was alot better.  However,
when I open the throttle while running with the RPMs at
about 5000 or so - the bike accelerates immediately but
misses once after a second or two.  Any suggestions?

I'm going to try a 147.5 and then a 150 to see if I can fix
this.  Otherwise the throttle response is great and the
increased power is all I can handle right now.  I keep
finding that I'm going a bit too fast.

I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
needle position as well.

Regards...Mark

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 02 Aug 1999 09:32:27 -0700

Hi mark, Couple of questions the intake manifold hose at 6" is plenty on my dirt
version unless your carb is shorter, { front to back} or your motor sits foward more
which is news to me, I will send you a section of hose at n/c. Measure your hose and
let me know what it is it should be 6". You say the carb fits the stock manifold that
also fits the cv carb?. I have a Cv carb here and the manifold is larger for it, making
a loose fit for the pumper, making it a possibility of an air leak on the pumper carb
as the outside dimension of the pumper carb is smaller than the cv carb. it would be
wise to check this out unless they sent a manifold with your carb kit. As for jetting
forth groove on the needle is right  and the 37.5 is good. Running the rpms up with no
load if not careful will hit the rev limiter and sound like its missing. Watch your
plug color it should be chocolate brown,  white to lite gray is lean, black is rich. my
experience here is with stock issue carbs there is a possibility that the needle is
different than stock Suzuki.Accessing the needle will be much easier with the carb out
getting the shaft in the right position with the spring and plastic pump actuater in
the correct position is tricky even when its out on the bench. Check back with me
about the hose and I will send you another filter they are $25.00. I am assuming you
have a Mikuni tm33ss model carb.
my best regards Jesse

Mark Sims wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I installed the vortex air box, a Big Gun exhaust and a
> pumper carb on my '98 DR350SE this weekend.  My friend
> installed a pumper carb on his '99 DR350SE and cut open
> the air box.
>
> The air box fits nicely and was easy to install.  I didn't
> bore the air bleeder jet yet.  It makes me a bit uneasy
> to bore a jet I can't replace.  I'm trying to get a new
> jet so that if I don't like the change I can back it out.
>
> The Big Gun exhaust was easy to install as well.  It didn't
> quite fit and I had to saw 3/8" off the header to seat it
> into the silencer pipe far enough.  I installed the quiet
> core and spark arrestor.  It's not quiet - but its not that
> loud either.  Its too loud for the streets, but I think it
> is okay for the National Forest where I ride.
>
> The pumper carb came in a kit.  I ordered the kit from
> Magic Racing in Michigan (810-254-9117) and they got it
> from White Brothers.  I expect that you can get the kit
> from any WB dealer.  I don't see the kit in their catalog.
>
> The kit included a new throttle, cables and grips.  The
> carb has an aluminum donut fitted to the bell so that it
> will fit the SE air box boot.  I was able to easily tap
> the donut off since I was replacing the stock air boot
> with the vortex hi-flow air box.  The 33mm carb fit right
> into the stock manifold and the starter was not in the way.
> The T-handle fit nicely without having to remove any plugs
> or do any filing.
>
> I was surprised to find a 147.5 main jet installed.  WB
> also included a 145 and a 150.  A 37.5 pilot jet was
> installed and WB also sent a 35 and a 40.  The clip on
> the needle was set in the 3rd position down (there are
> 5 positions total).
>
> My friend installed his carb with the 147.5 main jet and
> clip in the 3rd pos (as it came).  He's very happy with
> the performance.
>
> I had heard that others were having good results with a
> 140 or 142.5 main and the clip in the 4th pos - so I first
> tried 140 and 4th.  I could tell that it was a bit lean.
> Next I tried a 145 main.  This was alot better.  However,
> when I open the throttle while running with the RPMs at
> about 5000 or so - the bike accelerates immediately but
> misses once after a second or two.  Any suggestions?
>
> I'm going to try a 147.5 and then a 150 to see if I can fix
> this.  Otherwise the throttle response is great and the
> increased power is all I can handle right now.  I keep
> finding that I'm going a bit too fast.
>
> I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
> taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
> remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
> on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
> get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
> cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
> needle position as well.
>
> Regards...Mark
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave subject blank
> body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350SE shifting
Date: 02 Aug 1999 10:50:42 -0600




> >Hi all,
> >
> >I rode a Triumph 200cc all over the foothills of southern Calif when I
> >was supposed to be studying 30 years ago.  Now live in Victoria BC (the
> >island is laced with logging roads) and am just getting back into the
> >saddle.  I picked up a 1995 DR350SE couple of weeks ago.  It is
> >completly stock (so far).  I just got a set of Kouba links from Norm as
> >they seem to be a definite "must have" on this bike, other mods will
> >wait for my skills to come back.
> >
> >I have one question about the gearbox.  It is almost impossible to find
> >neutral with the engine running (no problem at all from 1st or 2nd with
> >a dead engine).  Is this normal on this little beast?  Any
> >recommendations? It has about 3500 miles on it and I don't know what
> >kind of oil is presently in it.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Mick.
>

Mick:

Try tightening the clutch cable adjustment, (less free play), or the
clutch arm could
be starting at the wrong angle and not allowing enough disengagement. If
neither one of
those are the problem, then the clutch hub could be too tight on the
main shaft and needs a slightly thinner thrust washer behind the hub and
in front of the clutch basket to allow it to spin free without draging
on the main shaft.  I have seen more than one from the factory that was
too tight.
Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 02 Aug 1999 13:28:32 -0400

Hi Jesse,

jessekientz wrote:
>
> Hi mark, Couple of questions the intake manifold hose at 6"
> is plenty on my dirt version unless your carb is shorter,
> { front to back} or your motor sits foward more which is news
> to me, I will send you a section of hose at n/c.  Measure your
> hose and let me know what it is it should be 6".

The distance between the carb and air box is 6", however the
angle doesn't seem to quite match.  Because the hose is angled,
it doesn't fit squarely on either the air box or the carb.  The
hose fits the inner side of the air box pipe right up to the
air box - but only fits on the outer side enough to just get
the clamp on.  Similarly, the hose fits the carb on the outer
side but not fully on the inner.  So I'd like to custom make a
piece of hose that's basically 6" long but has an additional
taper at each end to fit onto the carb and air box more fully.

> You say the carb fits the stock manifold that also fits the cv
> carb?. I have a Cv carb here and the manifold is larger for it,
> making a loose fit for the pumper, making it a possibility of an
> air leak on the pumper carb as the outside dimension of the pumper
> carb is smaller than the cv carb. it would be wise to check this
> out unless they sent a manifold with your carb kit.

Can't explain it.  No manifold was included with the kit.  The first
thing we did was check the CV stock carb against the new carb.  They
appeared to be exactly the same size when we held them together but
we did not use calipers.  I'll check again and I'll also make sure I
have a TM33SS.  WB did not send ANY information with the carb - only
installation instructions and they never mention a problem with the
manifold.  The kit does say specifically that its specially put
together to fit a DR350SE.

> As for jetting forth groove on the needle is right  and the 37.5 is
> good.  Running the rpms up with no load if not careful will hit the
> rev limiter and sound like its missing.  Watch your plug color it
> should be chocolate brown,  white to lite gray is lean, black is
> rich.  My experience here is with stock issue carbs there is a
> possibility that the needle is different than stock Suzuki.Accessing
> the needle will be much easier with the carb out getting the shaft
> in the right position with the spring and plastic pump actuater in
> the correct position is tricky even when its out on the bench. Check
> back with me about the hose and I will send you another filter they
> are $25.00. I am assuming you have a Mikuni tm33ss model carb.

Thanks for the comments.  I'll let you know how the jetting settles.

Mark

> my best regards Jesse
>
> Mark Sims wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I installed the vortex air box, a Big Gun exhaust and a
> > pumper carb on my '98 DR350SE this weekend.  My friend
> > installed a pumper carb on his '99 DR350SE and cut open
> > the air box.
> >
> > The air box fits nicely and was easy to install.  I didn't
> > bore the air bleeder jet yet.  It makes me a bit uneasy
> > to bore a jet I can't replace.  I'm trying to get a new
> > jet so that if I don't like the change I can back it out.
> >
> > The Big Gun exhaust was easy to install as well.  It didn't
> > quite fit and I had to saw 3/8" off the header to seat it
> > into the silencer pipe far enough.  I installed the quiet
> > core and spark arrestor.  It's not quiet - but its not that
> > loud either.  Its too loud for the streets, but I think it
> > is okay for the National Forest where I ride.
> >
> > The pumper carb came in a kit.  I ordered the kit from
> > Magic Racing in Michigan (810-254-9117) and they got it
> > from White Brothers.  I expect that you can get the kit
> > from any WB dealer.  I don't see the kit in their catalog.
> >
> > The kit included a new throttle, cables and grips.  The
> > carb has an aluminum donut fitted to the bell so that it
> > will fit the SE air box boot.  I was able to easily tap
> > the donut off since I was replacing the stock air boot
> > with the vortex hi-flow air box.  The 33mm carb fit right
> > into the stock manifold and the starter was not in the way.
> > The T-handle fit nicely without having to remove any plugs
> > or do any filing.
> >
> > I was surprised to find a 147.5 main jet installed.  WB
> > also included a 145 and a 150.  A 37.5 pilot jet was
> > installed and WB also sent a 35 and a 40.  The clip on
> > the needle was set in the 3rd position down (there are
> > 5 positions total).
> >
> > My friend installed his carb with the 147.5 main jet and
> > clip in the 3rd pos (as it came).  He's very happy with
> > the performance.
> >
> > I had heard that others were having good results with a
> > 140 or 142.5 main and the clip in the 4th pos - so I first
> > tried 140 and 4th.  I could tell that it was a bit lean.
> > Next I tried a 145 main.  This was alot better.  However,
> > when I open the throttle while running with the RPMs at
> > about 5000 or so - the bike accelerates immediately but
> > misses once after a second or two.  Any suggestions?
> >
> > I'm going to try a 147.5 and then a 150 to see if I can fix
> > this.  Otherwise the throttle response is great and the
> > increased power is all I can handle right now.  I keep
> > finding that I'm going a bit too fast.
> >
> > I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
> > taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
> > remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
> > on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
> > get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
> > cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
> > needle position as well.
> >
> > Regards...Mark
> >
> > #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave subject blank
> > body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryant Wang <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) modified corbin/travecade?
Date: 28 Jun 1999 23:45:02 EDT

Kurt

Thanks for the info. I assume you have a modified Corbin for your klr. How
do you like it? is it noticeably comfier than stock. how much it it?

Is it just pure foam or what? is it wider?

I was looking at the travelcade saddle website. Their seat looks Like a
pretty good upgrade. They use a gel material for the butt area. Plus they
have a kit where you use your stock seat pan and presumably save money.

I have no idea what it cost. anyone?

bryant
>I mean have Corbin modify it when they build it. They don't charge extra
>for this as long
>as it is at time of sale. We started this on the KLR and it has gotten to
>the point that
>they now ask customers buying a KLR Corbin do you want the standard or
>modified? We have
>them build it "without the dip". The person we've been dealing with is Raul
>who is manager
>of customer service. If you're ready to give it a shot tell him you were
>talking with some
>of the KLR people about what they do and ask if he could build a DR seat
>the same way. If
>you look at the pictures on the web they look like the same design. I think
>it'll work.
>
>Kurt
>
>
>Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>


_______________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) About CRD KIT...
Date: 03 Aug 1999 02:32:31 +0200

Sorry for the translation ... if you don't understand something...  :) :)=
 :)

Hello. I would thank you somebody to explain to me as to install the CRD
carburetor Kit for the Suzuki DR350 (it is for a friend...
http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/masdrs.htm ). The kit is in this page
(http://www.crd-international.com/en/shop-acces.htm  ... look the pic).
These are the instructions that come with the Kit  :

_ Before mounting the CRD kit, cut the top of the airbox, keep the rubber
scotched under the seat.
_ Principal jet : 160
_ Standard needle : 3rd hole from the top
_ Throttle-chamber spring : standard
_ Tank height : 14.6+1
_ Air screw : 1T 1/8 ( unscrew )
_ Delete the grate in the air tube next to the airbox
_ Remove the breather pipe on the gearbox located at the air tube and blo=
ck
the hole with silicone.


My friend will thank that somebody explains to him as carrying out these
adjustments, as well as to know if with what brings the kit (this kit bri=
ngs
the air filterr, 1 screw (principal jet?) and manual with those
instructions) it is enough to carry out what the instructions indicate, o=
r
it is necessary to have more components....

Thank you.

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
English Version (provisional) - Versi=F3n en Espa=F1ol



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) modified corbin/travecade?
Date: 02 Aug 1999 19:45:05 -0600

>Thanks for the info. I assume you have a modified Corbin for your klr. How
>do you like it? is it noticeably comfier than stock. how much it it?
>
>Is it just pure foam or what? is it wider?
>
>I was looking at the travelcade saddle website. Their seat looks Like a
>pretty good upgrade. They use a gel material for the butt area. Plus they
>have a kit where you use your stock seat pan and presumably save money.
>
>I have no idea what it cost. anyone?
>
>bryant


Corbin dualsport seats are more comfortable because they are wider...much wider. The come on their own
fiberglass pan which is much stronger than stock (at least in the case of the KLR). If you buy a
Travelcade for your DR...buy the Suzuki Gel Seat which is made by Travelcade and is cheaper. I saw
Gino's and it is definitely better than the stocker. I ordered a DR w/o the dip from Raul on
Friday...$296 with S & H in black leather and purple welt...

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) CUT AIRBOX VS MAGIC AIRBOX
Date: 02 Aug 1999 21:14:27 -0700

HI guys, sorry I find I must backup a little I got my letter today from RST Racing
heads in Lakeland FL that did the flowbench test on the DR350 head, airbox etc. I
find it was the stock airbox that flowed the 134.3 not one with the top cut out
they are trying to find one with the top cut out and run it on the flowbench and
send me the data then I will let everyone  know how the comparison goes.
regards Jesse

kevin albrecht wrote:

> What does cfm stand for and how much is the vortex airbox?
>
> Kevin 98DR350
> At 09:05 PM 7/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >HI John, I see your ad in cycle news any luck yet on the sale good price
> for what
> >you have in it.for the buyer anyway. I have a customer that purchased an
> airbox and
> >he is doing some serious porting ,cam etc. and took it to an outfit that has a
> >flowbench to do some testing these are the figures he gave me and the
> certificates
> >are coming in the mail. 1.stock airbox with the top cut out 134.3 cfm
> >                                   2.vortex airbox 265 cfm
> >                                   3.stock cv carb 144 cfm
> >                                   4.stock head 148.9 cfm
> >                                   5.ported head 184 cfm
> >I guess that tells the story. I am getting more calls with the cycle news ad
> >needless to say I am excited. regards Jesse
> >
> >[e-mail] wrote:
> >
> >> According to the CG literature, their (now the improved Vortex from
> Jesse) air
> >> box is good for a few HP over a top cut-out box; their literature with
> the dyno
> >> curve shows a smooth ark as opposed to the air box cutout's
> ever-so-slight peaks
> >> and valleys, and the overrev is 500 RPMs more. What the chart does not
> show is
> >> what is felt when on the trail/road - improved throttle response let alone
> >> convient filter access and added life between services; the square area
> of the
> >> Uni filter is much larger than stock.
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >> [e-mail] (John) on 07/07/99 07:36:10 PM
> >>
> >> Please respond to [e-mail] (John)
> >>
> >> To:   [e-mail]
> >> cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/USA/Conexant)
> >> Subject:  (dr350) CUT AIRBOX VS MAGIC AIRBOX
> >>
> >> O.K. guys lets get some opinions.How much of a power difference would
> >> there be between the stock air box if it were cut and a K&N airfilter
> >> installed as opposed to the magic airbox and the filter it comes
> >> with?This is in no way,shape,or form a knock on the magic airbox as it's
> >> reputation speaks for itself.
> >>
> >>                      P.S. I have a friend selling a 1990
> >>                              DRS 1,200miles like new
> >>                               very clean bike.He is
> >>                                looking for 2K but he is
> >>                               neg on the price.He is on
> >>                              Long Island N.Y. anyone
> >>                              interested let me know.
> >>                              It's in th paper and I don't
> >>                             think it will last long.
> >>
> >> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >>
> >> Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >> Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
> >
> >


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 03 Aug 1999 06:32:38 -0700

Mark,

What is your concept of "difficult"???  :-)

David Heverin
(2) 1990 DR350's
.........................................
Mark Sims wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
> I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
> taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
> remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
> on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
> get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
> cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
> needle position as well.

Mark

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From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 03 Aug 1999 10:00:43 -0400

Hi David,

If you've had your carb off, I think you'll agree
that by far the most difficult part of reinstalling
is squeezing the carb back between the intake manifold
and air boot.  Taking off the seat and gas tank has
to be done anyway to get the cables off and is, in
my opinion, easy compared to wrestling the carb back
in.

"Easy" may be a bit of a stretch!

Regards...Mark

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> What is your concept of "difficult"???  :-)
>
> David Heverin
> (2) 1990 DR350's
> .........................................
> Mark Sims wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> >
> > I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
> > taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
> > remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
> > on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
> > get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
> > cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
> > needle position as well.
>
> Mark
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 03 Aug 1999 07:49:54 PDT

You really dont have to take the seat/tank off to get the cables off...just
unscrew the whole plate that holds the throttle cables from the carb...just
two screws; no need to re-adjust cable travel upon reassy...just screw the
plate back on.

I dont think you'd have to take tank/seat off to turn the carb in its boots
either...assuming you have a pumper and that the pumper is smaller than the
stock CV carb.  The stock carb will not turn in its boots to allow easy
access to the bottom end....not for me anyway.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>CC: [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
>Date: Tue, 03 Aug 1999 10:00:43 -0400
>
>Hi David,
>
>If you've had your carb off, I think you'll agree
>that by far the most difficult part of reinstalling
>is squeezing the carb back between the intake manifold
>and air boot.  Taking off the seat and gas tank has
>to be done anyway to get the cables off and is, in
>my opinion, easy compared to wrestling the carb back
>in.
>
>"Easy" may be a bit of a stretch!
>
>Regards...Mark
>
>[e-mail] wrote:
> >
> > Mark,
> >
> > What is your concept of "difficult"???  :-)
> >
> > David Heverin
> > (2) 1990 DR350's
> > .........................................
> > Mark Sims wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > >
> > > I found that's it's easy to make main jet changes without
> > > taking the carb off.  Just take off the seat and tank, then
> > > remove the brake fluid container bracket.  Loosen the bracket
> > > on the manifold and air boot and you can spin the carb to
> > > get to the underneath.  You have to take off the throttle
> > > cables, too.  I plan to use this approach if I change the
> > > needle position as well.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > #Visit dr350 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
> > body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
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_______________________________________________________________
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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (no DR content) Cruiser & Sportbike for sale in Dallas; Ideas on bike rental bus
Date: 03 Aug 1999 08:03:52 PDT

Hey guys--

I buy/sell bikes in my spare time as a little side business.

In case anyone is interested...I have a cherry 96 Honda Shadow ACE 1100 for
sale for $6200 obo.  It is purple/pearl white, 6400 miles, under Honda
factory extended warranty till April, 2000, has been garage kept, and is in
perfect condition.  I can deliver the bike within about 500 miles of Dallas.

I also have a guy willing to sell me his red 98 ZX-9R for $7300, which I
have not bought yet (but probably will after sale of the ACE).  Its red,
great condition, 3K miles, new Dragon tires.  I can put anyone in contact
with this guy that wants the bike...I dont *have* to make a profit on you
guys :)

Also, what do you guys think about the likely success/failure of a bike
rental business?  I'm kinda toying with the idea of starting one here in
Dallas with about 3 bikes.  What would it be worth to you guys to rent a big
cruiser or a sharp sport bike w/ unlimited mileage for a week?  I think it
might be very lucrative to put together "route 66" trips for Europeans.  I
have a few German buddies who really like the idea of coming over here to
ride thru a but of America on that famous hiway.  I could negotiate hotel
rates along the way, have a trip plan, recommend eating/camping spots, etc.
The biggest concern which I havent even begun to research yet is the cost of
insurance for a business like this.  Thoughts are welcome!

Take care-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


_______________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Dual Sport Ride Flyer
Date: 03 Aug 1999 14:31:02 -0400

Spread The Word!

The Amsterdam GA Dual Sport Ride Is On!!!!!

It's 45 minutes north of Tallahassee/ 15 miles south of Bainbridge GA.

Get Your Entry Flyer On The Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders Website, It's
PRE-ENTRY ONLY!!

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245


Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet!"
TREAD LIGHTLY!


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Pumper carb on a DR350SE
Date: 03 Aug 1999 20:37:27 -0700

Hey Mark,

Just teasing, really!!  I have removed and reinstalled every part on
each of my bikes.  I am very familiar with the sometimes difficult
aspect of getting the carb air boot.  The way you wrote the procedure
you followed to replace a jet struck me as funny.  Thanks for the
laugh.  If you ever need a good chuckle I'll tell you about the joys of
putting on a new rear tire....

David
(2) 1990 DR350's

BTW..."bit of a stretch"  Ha Ha!! I get it!

Mark Sims wrote:
>
> Hi David,
>
> If you've had your carb off, I think you'll agree
> that by far the most difficult part of reinstalling
> is squeezing the carb back between the intake manifold
> and air boot.  Taking off the seat and gas tank has
> to be done anyway to get the cables off and is, in
> my opinion, easy compared to wrestling the carb back
> in.
>
> "Easy" may be a bit of a stretch!
>
> Regards...Mark
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
> >
> > Mark,
> >
> > What is your concept of "difficult"???  :-)
> >
> > David Heverin
> > (2) 1990 DR350's

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) upcoming dual sport events
Date: 04 Aug 1999 08:12:46 -0700

Two dual sport events in the beautiful Pacific NW are coming up soon!

1.  Easton Dual Sport, this Sunday (Aug 8).  Easton is 70 miles East of
Seattle on I-90, at exit 70.  staging area is on the north side of the
highway at the RV Town campground, behind the Texaco gas station/store.

2.  Lake Wenatchee Dual Sport is the following Sunday (Aug 15) at the Lake
Wenatchee Rec club's clubhouse located at the end of the Lake Wenatchee
Emergency Airstrip.  Lake Wentchee is located about 5 miles or so off of
highway 2 a bit north of the bavarian village of Leavenworth, WA.

flyers for both events are posted on my event shcedule web page at:

http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html


See ya,
Doug


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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Oil leak???
Date: 04 Aug 1999 15:44:52 -0700

Hi all,
    My new 1998 DR350SE had oil all over the front of the
engine after an eighty mile ride yesterday. It wasn't much,
but spread all over. I checked all the fittings on the front
of the engine, and none seemed very loose if any. After
tightening them, I ran the engine up to temp, let it cool
and did it again. Did not have time to take it one the road.
    Anyone have any suggestions what it may have been? Possibly
something not obvious, but maybe there is something common
that someone knows about.
Thanks, Wayne Marsula'
    Escondido, CA

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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Oil leak???
Date: 04 Aug 1999 16:16:06 PDT

  My '98 did almost the same thing.  I had to take the upper oil line
bolt out and re-torque it because it was leaking oil just after I
bought it.  I think I had to take the gas tank off to get to it (I
could be wrong).  It hasn't leaked a drop since and I now have over
3500 miles on it.

Good Luck!

>     My new 1998 DR350SE had oil all over the front of the
> engine after an eighty mile ride yesterday. It wasn't much,
> but spread all over. I checked all the fittings on the front
> of the engine, and none seemed very loose if any. After
> tightening them, I ran the engine up to temp, let it cool
> and did it again. Did not have time to take it one the road.
>     Anyone have any suggestions what it may have been? Possibly
> something not obvious, but maybe there is something common
> that someone knows about.
> Thanks, Wayne Marsula'
>     Escondido, CA

--
Scott Aldrich / EPSG UN*X Adminstrator
        Agilent  Technologies

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Oil leak???
Date: 04 Aug 1999 20:57:32 -0600



Wayne Marsula' wrote:

> Hi all,
>         My new 1998 DR350SE had oil all over the front of the
> engine after an eighty mile ride yesterday. It wasn't much,
> but spread all over. I checked all the fittings on the front
> of the engine, and none seemed very loose if any. After
> tightening them, I ran the engine up to temp, let it cool
> and did it again. Did not have time to take it one the road.
>         Anyone have any suggestions what it may have been? Possibly
> something not obvious, but maybe there is something common
> that someone knows about.
> Thanks, Wayne Marsula'
>         Escondido, CA
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave subject blank
> body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

Wayne:  The valve train oil is pumped up the left front head bolt, may need to retork
the head bolts if the oil is coming out between the head and cylinder in that area
behind the large oil line banjo fitting.  This is not a common problem on a stock
engine but have seen it on the big bore aftermarket head gaskets.  The  other places
that could be a problem is the exaust valve cover, or possibly the in frame oil
resevoir is leaking normally around the top engine mount.  Let us know what you find.
Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299




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From: Jeff Jackson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350SE shifting
Date: 04 Aug 1999 19:54:36 -0700

I had a similar problem with my 98.  It turned out the idle speed was too
high.  Turning it down to spec solved it.  I do have a problem though
that it will occasionally shift into neutral when upshifting or
downshifting between 1st and 2nd.  Anyone know of a way to fix this?
I've talked to another owner that has the same problem.

Also, a while ago someone suggested trying to just route the carb vent
hose down instead of the T vent setup.  I tried that, but experienced the
engine cutting out when on straight level roads.  After T'ing the hose,
the problems went away.

Jeff Jackson

>I have one question about the gearbox.  It is almost impossible to
>find
>neutral with the engine running (no problem at all from 1st or 2nd
>with
>a dead engine).  Is this normal on this little beast?  Any
>recommendations? It has about 3500 miles on it and I don't know what
>kind of oil is presently in it.
>
>Thanks,
>Mick.
>
___________________________________________________________________
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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) DR350SE shifting
Date: 04 Aug 1999 22:04:10 -0700

My 94 did the same thing when shifting, I replaced the shift lever with a
aftermarket model and the problem was solved.  Reason it is better with the
aftermarket lever is because the splines on the lever are aligned at a
different angle in relation to the angle of the lever, so when the new
lever is installed, it points down just a tad compared to the stock lever.
 However, note that rotating the stock lever down one notch on the splines
does not achieve the same effect because then it points too low. MSR and
Scotts make a decent aftermarket lever.  Don't through out the stock lever
though, carry it with you as a spare in your fanny pack or whatever when
you ride.

 Also, often times my boot would slip off the rubber tip on the stock
lever, especially after the rubber started to wear flat on the bottom side,
and because the tip is too short.
The aftermarket lever has a longer tip, so your boot won't slip off of it.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Wednesday, August 04, 1999 7:55 PM
Cc:    [e-mail]

I had a similar problem with my 98.  It turned out the idle speed was too
high.  Turning it down to spec solved it.  I do have a problem though
that it will occasionally shift into neutral when upshifting or
downshifting between 1st and 2nd.  Anyone know of a way to fix this?
I've talked to another owner that has the same problem.

Also, a while ago someone suggested trying to just route the carb vent
hose down instead of the T vent setup.  I tried that, but experienced the
engine cutting out when on straight level roads.  After T'ing the hose,
the problems went away.

Jeff Jackson

>I have one question about the gearbox.  It is almost impossible to
>find
>neutral with the engine running (no problem at all from 1st or 2nd
>with
>a dead engine).  Is this normal on this little beast?  Any
>recommendations? It has about 3500 miles on it and I don't know what
>kind of oil is presently in it.
>
>Thanks,
>Mick.
>
___________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350SE shifting
Date: 05 Aug 1999 10:04:43 -0400

Or, you could wait untill you go into a fit of mad rage resulting from your
40th or 50th neutral insted of the intended gear shift, and channel the
resulting energy into "modifying" the stock level with some sort of tool or
big heavy objected.

Worked for me and cost $0.00

- Jeff

> My 94 did the same thing when shifting, I replaced the shift lever with a
> aftermarket model and the problem was solved.  Reason it is better with
the
> aftermarket lever is because the splines on the lever are aligned at a
> different angle in relation to the angle of the lever, so when the new
> lever is installed, it points down just a tad compared to the stock lever.
>  However, note that rotating the stock lever down one notch on the splines
> does not achieve the same effect because then it points too low. MSR and
> Scotts make a decent aftermarket lever.  Don't through out the stock lever
> though, carry it with you as a spare in your fanny pack or whatever when
> you ride.



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) remove
Date: 06 Aug 1999 08:58:01 EDT

Please remove me from the list for the next 2 and a half weeks because im on
holiday with the DR around europe and i don't want my e-mail blocked up


Tony

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [<[e-mail]>]
Date: 06 Aug 1999 08:55:24 -0600


-----Original Message-----
[<[e-mail]>]


>>From [e-mail] Fri Aug 06 08:27:26 1999
>Received: from [198.62.8.11] (helo=fwgate1e.conexant.com
ident=firewall-user)
> by lists.xmission.com with smtp (Exim 2.05 #1)
> id 11Ckxx-0007ZD-00
> for [e-mail]; Fri, 6 Aug 1999 08:27:25 -0600
>Received: by fwgate1e.conexant.com; id HAA19656; Fri, 6 Aug 1999
07:28:13 -0700
>From: <[e-mail]>
>Received: from npbsmtp1.nb.conexant.com(157.152.161.153) by
fwgate1e.conexant.com via smap (V4.2)
> id xmae19488; Fri, 6 Aug 99 07:28:00 -0700
>Received: by npbsmtp1.nb.conexant.com(Lotus SMTP MTA v4.6.3 (778.2
1-4-1999))  id 882567C5.004F22DA ; Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:24:22 -0700
>X-Lotus-FromDomain: CNXT
>Return-Receipt-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail], [e-mail], [e-mail]
>cc: [e-mail]
>Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
>Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:23:25 -0700
>Subject: DR Tank
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Disposition: inline
>
>Gents,
>
>I don't know if my message made it to the board, so I thought I'd try try
you
>all first.
>
>I have a new-in-box plastic '96 OEM dirt-vers. tank, never used. Cost $360
=:-o
>new; I'll let it go for well less than half that. Do you know of anyone who
>wants one? Also have a OEM '90-'95 DR/S/SE maintenance manual - $30.
>
>Tx
>john dot gill at conexant dot com
>
>
>
>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) remove
Date: 06 Aug 1999 12:03:26 EDT

unsubscribe.  going to be out for a couple weeks.

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) impressed
Date: 06 Aug 1999 22:49:14 EDT

Ok, I have been brought back from the dark side. After riding Brian
Nolastname's DR350 tonight, I have seen the light. If you would have told me
that a DR350 could be set up to ride like a full blown cross country racer,I
would have called you crazy. But Brian's DR was a kick in the ass!!!! I was
totally amazed at how the suspension handled. I've rode the yz400 and I swear
his 350 handled every bit as good as a 400. And if it weren't for the 35
extra pounds from the fuel, I think I could have wheelied the bike in fourth.
Thanks Brian for the ride. I can't wait to get started on my bike.
Thanks again to all on the list.Your information has been very insightful,
and I look for to reading the opinions of everyone on the list.

Dave stoked in Ft Worth

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) impressed
Date: 07 Aug 1999 16:56:19 PDT

Well, I'm glad you liked the bike, Dave.  I figure I have about $800-900 in
aftermarket parts on the bike (engine & frame are still stock), and
considering the low buy in price ($2500 for my excellent-shape, low miles 95
SE earlier this year in TX), I think these DR's of ours are excellent bikes
once tinkered with a bit.  Still a lot less $$ than a stock XR400 or YZF400.
  Plus our DRs have a 6th gear that is actually hiway friendly, even if you
change the sprockets for improved hill climbing.

By the way guys, this guy Dave that I met for the first time & rode with
yesterday is one heck of a dirt rider!  We went to a place w/ alot of deep
sand, and he flew on it while I crawled.  Proof once again that its 80%+
rider instead of bike!  That sand is scarry to me...seems like just when I
get going fast enough to "get on top" of the sand, I get freaked by the
washy feel of the front wheel.  I think old Dave can teach me alot.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) impressed
>Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:49:14 EDT
>
>Ok, I have been brought back from the dark side. After riding Brian
>Nolastname's DR350 tonight, I have seen the light. If you would have told
>me
>that a DR350 could be set up to ride like a full blown cross country
>racer,I
>would have called you crazy. But Brian's DR was a kick in the ass!!!! I was
>totally amazed at how the suspension handled. I've rode the yz400 and I
>swear
>his 350 handled every bit as good as a 400. And if it weren't for the 35
>extra pounds from the fuel, I think I could have wheelied the bike in
>fourth.
>Thanks Brian for the ride. I can't wait to get started on my bike.
>Thanks again to all on the list.Your information has been very insightful,
>and I look for to reading the opinions of everyone on the list.
>
>Dave stoked in Ft Worth
>
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>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) impressed
Date: 07 Aug 1999 21:24:01 EDT

In a message dated 8/6/99 10:50:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< And if it weren't for the 35
 extra pounds from the fuel, I think I could have wheelied the bike in
fourth. >>

I have a '93 DR350S and have a problem wheeling mine in first. I have changed
the front sprocket down 1 tooth to a 13t.  Would love to be able to lift the
front wheel in first, and second would be a dream.  Any ideas?

John

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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) impressed
Date: 07 Aug 1999 18:37:51 -0700

John,
    I don't know much about the DR350 yet, as I just recently
bought a new 1998 SE model. But the first time I took it
down the block, and got on it hard in first, the front end
came right up! Really surprised me, as I weigh 250# and
really wasn't expecting it.  The bike is, of course, quite
stock (now) and not even broken in. Maybe you just need a
good tune-up ;o>.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/6/99 10:50:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [e-mail]
> writes:
>
> << And if it weren't for the 35
>  extra pounds from the fuel, I think I could have wheelied the bike in
> fourth. >>
>
> I have a '93 DR350S and have a problem wheeling mine in first. I have changed
> the front sprocket down 1 tooth to a 13t.  Would love to be able to lift the
> front wheel in first, and second would be a dream.  Any ideas?
>
> John
>

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From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Ride Report (Long)
Date: 08 Aug 1999 01:21:40 -0500

Ride Report N Wisconsin

What a ball!  I've just returned from a wonderful five day escapade in the
midwest's Northwoods country Glidden Wisconin Bear Capitol of the World.

Since I'm in between contracts (computer) I thought I'd take the family out
for some earned R&R and a week in the woods, riding the bikes, seemed like
the right ticket.  We had no idea where to go and were rushing around
trying to pinpoint a campground, an area rich in trails, and one friendly
to some very novice riders, yet offering some terrain variety too.

I wanted to stay out of the sand, so that kicked out central Wisconsin and
didn't have time to get the kid certified to ride in Michigan .  States of
choice were Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Iowa, Kentucky and Wisconsin.  Far
northern Wisconsin won out this time around since I could gather the most
information on available trails quickly (thanks to all that responded).

We loaded the bikes and camping gear up Sunday night and early, well 10am
Monday we were on the road.  By 6:00pm we'd pulled into the "Northern Lure"
on Gordon Lake just north of Glidden Wis.  Very friendly, very clean, and
very inexpensive place to stay, I give it the big thumbs up.  However it is
a bit of a hike from the campground to the trail, but there is a connector
ATV route that will get you there with a bit of planning.   By 6:30PM camp
was made, the bikes were out, we were suited up and the engines were
started.  Off we went to see what we could see.

Most of the trails in the Glidden, Gordon Lake area are comprised of
fireroad rather than singletrack or ATV twin track trail.  This was
perfectly fine with the wife since she was still trying to figure out what
those lever thingies were for on her handlebar thingy.   Besides the place
was teaming with deer and who had time to worry about foot, hand, butt, and
elbow position when you got to enjoy the antics of Bambi and his buddies
scampering too and fro in the woods all around you.

By the fourth day Patti and Trev had loosened up quite a bit and were ready
once again to head out in the woods and ride the trails.  However most of
the trail riding up until this day had been on the fire roads.  I was a
little worried how the wife would do hustling her XT350 around the trail.
 There had been a lot of rain and I was sure the trails would be wet,
muddy, and there would be the occasional lake like puddle to cross.  I was
not dissappointed and I was quite surprised to find out that my wife has
better balance and coordination than I had given here credit for.

 Time and time again I watched my wifes bike snap across the trail, the
tail end wagging wildly for a moment to the left and right, and then just
as suddenly  it was brought under control, continuing its easy path down
the trail.  Each time this happened I sat back in delighted wonder, she's a
natural.  Later, I found out she was naturally terrifed and then naturally
elated that she didn't faceplant into the nearest hard object.  Geritol,
it's great stuff.

In the first four days in Glidden I think I saw more deer run next to me,
in front of me, and stand there staring stupidly at me than I'd seen in the
last ten years.  It was very cool, where were the bear?

I spoke with the campground owner about the bear population in the area and
he said

 "Oh ya, fer sure, you keep ridin those trails, you'll run into one sure
nuff."

I thought,  great, just what I've been waiting for.  I tepidly asked him if
they ever saw bear around the campground??

 "Oh ya, fer sure, had one walk through just last month, scared the deer
away that was feedin.  But heck, they're more afraid of you than you are of
them."

HAH!

Day Five:

Got up late, and took our time hitting the trail.  Was the last day and I'd
had about enough of the fireroad scene and the trails were just too muddy
to ride successfully for any length of time.    Riding down the connector
trail I'm leading the way about 200yards ahead of the wife and kid when I
spot a guy walking down the road towards us.  I'm speeding along at about
30 or 40 miles per hour and I spot two deer standing in the middle of the
road, between me and the guy walking my way.  Deer one does the bright
thing and splits the scene.  Deer two decides to wait around and see what
I'm doing.  As I draw closer it decides that I'm a threat and heads full
tilt boogie towards the guy walking at me.

It's like watching a baseball player caught inbetween first and second
base.  He knows he's got to get through one of the opposing players but
which one.

The deer sees the guy walking towards it and stops briefly in its tracks,
does a 180 degree pivot and stumbles towards me, then feignts towards the
guy the turns back towards me where I've stopped my bike and begins to
gallop at full speed right at me.  20 yards, 10 yards, 15 feet, crap the
SOB is gonna run me over I think, 8 feet and the deer ( a young buck
judging by the stubs on his head) pivots to the right and crashes head
first into the brush.  Wow that was cool I thought, close but cool.  The
wife and kid arrive on the scene and are wondering why I've stopped and my
mouth is draggin in the dirt.

Motoring on we begin to head out into the boonedocks to enjoy a very
peaceful quite ride.  3 hours later, and about 250 deer, I'm clipping down
the trail again, 200 or 300 yards ahead of the boy and better half when I
crest a hill and about 100 yards ahead of me lopes a friendly neighborhood
black bear.

He's big, about a million pounds, and he looks very hungry, and very
curious.  Ok, probably not a million pounds, but my existence is
questionable give me that.  I look back to see where Trev and Patti are,
and see the boy charging hard towards my position.  He's playing McGrath
and trying to run me down.  I look back to see where Yogi is and he's still
loping around, apparently not caring about me.  I'm hoping Trev can crest
the hill to see the Big Bear before he dissappears into the woods but no
such luck.

When Trev finally makes it to my position I tell him, Hey bud, let's get
heading back, turn her around and let's grab Mom.  He does, a little
disappointed to be ending our ride so early but hey it's a long ride back.
 Getting to my wife I calmly (I'm sure) tell her to turn her bike around
we're going back to camp ignoring her questions why telling her I'll tell
you later, just please don't kill the bike.  She successfully negotiates
the turn and we're off, hitting speeds previously unheard of before.  At
the next stop sign she asks?did you see a bear?  Yup, wanna keep going?
  Yup she said and off we went.

All in all the ride was pretty fun however our bikes are so quiet that each
time we went into the woods I was concerned that we'd stumble across Yogi
Bear and inadvertently frighten the crap out of it causing an unwelcome
response.   Would I go back there?  You betcha I would, the country is
beautiful and the people are super friendly.


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Ride Report (Long)
Date: 08 Aug 1999 17:41:01 EDT

Great write-up! Sounds like a wonderful place to visit. Congrats to your wife
for such a successful outing.

John
'93 DR350S

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Moonshine Enduro
Date: 08 Aug 1999 17:46:40 EDT

Anyone have any information about the ECEA Moonshine Enduro?  I have never
rode in an organized event yet and wonder if this would be one to try.  It
will be held in Brandonville, Pa. on Sept 19th.

Thanks,

John
'93DR350S

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) impressed
Date: 08 Aug 1999 17:48:52 EDT

All of the things you have done are right on line to what Brian has done to
his bike, with the exception of having the front shocks rebuilt with
cartridge emulators. These things make a world of difference. They are great.
The front held straight and tight, it didn't want to walk in the soft stuff
and stayed true and stiff in the rough stuff. I'm pulling my bike down
tonight and getting in contact with some suspension companies this week.Brian
also had the rear shock revalved and added the eibach spring. For the short
period of time he has had the bike, he has really turned his machine into a
class A  cross country racer. With the big bore kit, he could walk the dog on
any YZ400 in the trees and tight stuff.
Dave

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From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) shorty levers?
Date: 08 Aug 1999 18:30:48 EDT

Hey people

I just got renthals and rally pro gaurds. I'm thinking that short levers
will let me put the gaurds in front of the levers instead of over them, make
sense? Any way does any one know where I can get a short brake lever for the
street version 93 dr 350s. I don't see one in Dennis kirks catalog. The
clutch levers no problem but I'd like them to match ya know.

thanks everyone
Bryant, Brooklyn NY


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From: "Colin Reed" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Scottoiler
Date: 09 Aug 1999 11:44:48 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEE25C.95614100
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Having used a Scottoiler on a previous bike with very good results I =
have bought one to fit to my '99 DR350SE and was looking for =
help/comments from anyone who has fitted one to a DR.

I recollect the guy from Scottoiler said that the vacuum line had to be =
connected to the carb manifold after drilling and fixing one of the =
connection adaptors which came with the kit. I assume he meant the =
rubber connector between the carb and the cylinder head. Has anybody =
fitted one using an alternative connection point?

Most of my riding is on tarmac but I would also welcome any tips for the =
mounting of this kit to avoid any potential problems when I do use the =
bike more off road.

Colin.
NE England

=20

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEE25C.95614100
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Having used a Scottoiler on a previous bike with =
very good=20
results I have bought one to fit to my '99 DR350SE and was looking for=20
help/comments from anyone who has fitted one to a DR.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I recollect the guy from Scottoiler said that the =
vacuum line=20
had to be connected to the carb manifold after drilling and fixing one =
of the=20
connection adaptors which came with the kit. I assume he meant the =
rubber=20
connector between the carb and the cylinder head. Has anybody =
fitted one=20
using an alternative connection point?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Most of my riding is on tarmac but I would also =
welcome any=20
tips for the mounting of this kit to avoid any potential problems when I =
do use=20
the bike more off road.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Colin.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>NE England</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEE25C.95614100--


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From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) FYI
Date: 09 Aug 1999 13:19:05 -0500

The new issue of Dirt Rider magazine has a really cool article on a Thumper Racing DR435. Its about time it gets some good publicity.


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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) speedo
Date: 09 Aug 1999 18:12:53 -0400 (EDT)

How accurate is the speedo on the se model.It seems i'm going slower
than its telling me.


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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) WP shock / Jetting / clutchless up-changes / wheelies
Date: 10 Aug 1999 01:35:36 +0100

Hi guys,

I finally got the mounting hardware for the Acerbis tank but still
haven't found the time to install it.

I am about to buy a used White Power shock (fully adjustable) with a
claimed 1.000 dirt miles on it for $315.00. It's a guy who bought it
for better handling but decided to buy a new WR400 and sold the DR
with the stock shock. It seems a good deal to me since it costs
$650.00 new.

Is there any points that I should take into consideration before I
purchase it ?

About the carbs, which main jet should I buy to go along with an
opened airbox (cut off top), Twin Air filter and the stock CV Mikuni
33mm carb ?

Can anyone explain me if it damages the gearbox to up-change gears
without the clutch ?

About the wheelies, I also wasn't able to wheelie my DR, even in first
gear, until 2 months ago. Why was that ? Because I was trying to lift
the front like I do on my street R1 (150 HP / 172 Kg), using the
power.

To wheelie the DR, is more a question of finding the right "spot" on
the rev range, give it a tug on the bars and there she goes...

This is what I do :  I ride it slowly in second gear, keeping the revs
down (I removed the clocks so I don't know how at which revs I give it
a tug on the bars...), than give it a strong tug on the bars, full
throttle (pop the clutch in the first wheelies to make it easier),
pull the bars in my direction and then keep the throttle fully opened
until I get to the balance point, than at this stage I change to
third, keep "blipping" the throttle and use the rear brake to maintain
the balance point, engage fourth and sometimes even fifth gear...

Thanks !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) =?iso-8859-1?Q?Some_photos_of_the_DR350_..._or_=BFDR_2000=3F?=
Date: 10 Aug 1999 13:02:36 +0200

Look at this DR... it is incredible, impressive... Will it be the DR2000?

http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/dr2000.htm

What do you find?
_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:=20(dr350)=20Some=5Fphotos=5Fof=5Fthe=5FDR350=5F?=
Date: 10 Aug 1999 08:23:23 EDT

Great site!  What was that picture with the liquid being poured?  I would
hate to launch that bike off the side of a hill. The headlight assembly looks
like it will very expensive to replace.

John
'93DR350S

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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE:_=28dr350=29_Some=5Fphotos=5Fof=5Fthe=5FDR350=5F...?=
Date: 10 Aug 1999 15:12:13 +0200

Hello. I will try to comment you Super the characteristics of this DR
(whenever you understand my English, clear): Sorry for the mistakes of th=
e
translation:
- It has a main deposit of 8 liters. It has two secondary deposits to eac=
h
side (in the lateral) of 5 l each one. One will be used to take water and
another for fuel
- The muffler has the valve VTEX (valve tuned exhaust): this valve can
graduate in the switch that you leave in the picture (+ noise =3D+ power,=
 -
noise=3D-power)
- the front fender has a " trunk " to take objects
- the front light, takes incorporate an independent battery, so that you =
can
use with the bike turns off. But the most important thing, is that in the
front lighthouse, they go located some optic fibers that direct the light=
 to
both sides of the front wheel, so that in difficult areas, one can see
perfectly for where you steps the front wheel

Well, this it is a project of the year=A11995!!!, in charge by Suzuki USA=
 to
"Next Worl Design"(Ohio)


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo





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From: [e-mail] (Renaud Franck)
Subject: (dr350) infos?
Date: 10 Aug 1999 15:36:25 +0200

Hello,

I'm living in Belgium and i recently bought a DR350S '93 with 5000km
(bargain).
I'm wondering if i have a problem with my DR beceause i tried a freind's
DR350 '93 and with this one i can easly do wheelies in second gear but
not with mine. With the same strockes of course. Is it normal? Is the
DR350 very more light than a DR350S?
Does anyone can help me?

Renaud


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From: David Millhollon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Not DR related
Date: 10 Aug 1999 09:56:07 -0500

 I know this is a DR only forum, but I thought maybe someone could help me
with a 2 stroke problem.My son has a 87 Kawasaki KX80, and over the weekend
he took a spill and now the bike won't start.It's not getting fire to the
plug. I have changed the plug, bypassed the kill switch, and checked the
dodad  in the side cover by the shifter for any moisture. Does anyone know
if I can Ohm the to 2 little dohickies under the tank to see if they are
good? I don't want to start replacing parts that aren't bad. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave in Ft Worth
'96 DR350


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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Main Jet - Urgent
Date: 11 Aug 1999 20:47:45 +0100

Hi guys,

I need your help quickly !!!

I bought a new slip-on pipe from Pulsar (Portuguese brand at
www.pulsar.pt )

It's a straight through, closed circuit type, louder than HELL...

The guy there gave me a 140 main jet and told me to use the needle 1
clip "down" (raise the needle 1 position).

What I want to now is, if I open the top of my airbox, I already have
a Twin Air filter and this straight through exhaust, which main jet
should I use ?

Which is the stock main jet ?

At present configuration (stock airbox without the snorkel + Twin Air)
the bike is great at low/mid rpms but the high range was shortened.
The bike is also backfiring a little when I close the throttle and the
engine seems to be running a little hotter. It's difficult to start
the engine too, even when it's hot. So, I guess I am running a little
lean.

Should I open the airbox and try the 140 main jet ?

I have already ordered a Dynojet Stage 2 kit but it is in backorder
until September, so I would try this solution meanwhile, what do you
guys think ?

I have never opened a carb, should I try to change the main jet by
myself ?

To what should I pay special attention ?

Please reply as soon as you can (I would really appreciate it) because
I am about to change the shock to a White Power unit, so I would take
the carb off and try to this myself tonight.

Thanks a lot !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) infos?
Date: 11 Aug 1999 21:32:09 -0700

Hi Renaud welcome to the DR350 list, Jesse here in Grants Pass Oregon. The DR350 dirt
model is lighter, plastic tank vs your steel tank and also probably geared down for the
trails. It also has a pumper carburetor which is more responsive than your CV
carburetor. hope this answers your question, if you have more I will try to answer
them.  Regards Jesse

Renaud Franck wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I'm living in Belgium and i recently bought a DR350S '93 with 5000km
> (bargain).
> I'm wondering if i have a problem with my DR beceause i tried a freind's
> DR350 '93 and with this one i can easly do wheelies in second gear but
> not with mine. With the same strockes of course. Is it normal? Is the
> DR350 very more light than a DR350S?
> Does anyone can help me?
>
> Renaud
>
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From: [e-mail] (Renaud Franck)
Subject: Re: (dr350) infos?
Date: 12 Aug 1999 09:11:07 +0200

Thanks Jesse, i'll find a  "pumper carburetor", i'll try it and i'll let you know if it
works better.

Renaud

jessekientz wrote:

> Hi Renaud welcome to the DR350 list, Jesse here in Grants Pass Oregon. The DR350 dirt
> model is lighter, plastic tank vs your steel tank and also probably geared down for the
> trails. It also has a pumper carburetor which is more responsive than your CV
> carburetor. hope this answers your question, if you have more I will try to answer
> them.  Regards Jesse
>
> Renaud Franck wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I'm living in Belgium and i recently bought a DR350S '93 with 5000km
> > (bargain).
> > I'm wondering if i have a problem with my DR beceause i tried a freind's
> > DR350 '93 and with this one i can easly do wheelies in second gear but
> > not with mine. With the same strockes of course. Is it normal? Is the
> > DR350 very more light than a DR350S?
> > Does anyone can help me?
> >
> > Renaud
> >
> > #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave subject blank
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>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) infos?
Date: 12 Aug 1999 08:34:44 -0400

Renauld:

I just put on a pumper carb, the magic airbox and free-flowing
exhaust and I'm very happy with the results.  You'll find a kit
for fitting the carb to the DR350S from White Brothers.

You'll also see a huge difference in bite by changing the
sprocket ratio.  This is probably the most cost-effective
change you can make - though you'll give up top speed.

BTW, Jesse has been extremely helpful in my pursuit to boost
power.  Hats off!

Regards...Mark
Atlanta, GA
'98 DR350SE


Renaud Franck wrote:
>
> Thanks Jesse, i'll find a  "pumper carburetor", i'll try it and i'll let you know if it
> works better.
>
> Renaud
>
> jessekientz wrote:
>
> > Hi Renaud welcome to the DR350 list, Jesse here in Grants Pass Oregon. The DR350 dirt
> > model is lighter, plastic tank vs your steel tank and also probably geared down for the
> > trails. It also has a pumper carburetor which is more responsive than your CV
> > carburetor. hope this answers your question, if you have more I will try to answer
> > them.  Regards Jesse
> >
> > Renaud Franck wrote:
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I'm living in Belgium and i recently bought a DR350S '93 with 5000km
> > > (bargain).
> > > I'm wondering if i have a problem with my DR beceause i tried a freind's
> > > DR350 '93 and with this one i can easly do wheelies in second gear but
> > > not with mine. With the same strockes of course. Is it normal? Is the
> > > DR350 very more light than a DR350S?
> > > Does anyone can help me?
> > >
> > > Renaud
> > >

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Main Jet - Urgent
Date: 12 Aug 1999 05:51:51 PDT

Hey Claudio-  On my 95 SE, the stock main was 127.5; I am running a 135 now
w/ cut box & FMF MegaMax exhaust.  140 might be better, cause I still have a
little popping when decelerating.  Be aware that your stock needle may not
have any adjustment notches....my stock needle only had one notch.....which
is one reason to get the JX needle & spring.  I also raised my JX needle one
notch so that it is now one notch above the lowest one.

You should be prepared to adjust your pilot valve also....may need the next
larger size and a Scott T-handle to make things easier.  You will have to
drill through a thin casting to be able to adjust it if the carb is like the
ones we get in the US.

One other thing....while you have your exhaust off, pull the header pipe off
the engine.  Look inside the pipe.  You will probably see 2mm or so of
excess weld bead that was created when the flange was welded to the pipe.
That weld should be ground down flat...smooth with the inside surface of the
pipe.  Dont know if it will help much, but it sure cant hurt!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
>To: "Suzuki DR350S" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Main Jet - Urgent
>Date: Wed, 11 Aug 1999 20:47:45 +0100
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I need your help quickly !!!
>
>I bought a new slip-on pipe from Pulsar (Portuguese brand at
>www.pulsar.pt )
>
>It's a straight through, closed circuit type, louder than HELL...
>
>The guy there gave me a 140 main jet and told me to use the needle 1
>clip "down" (raise the needle 1 position).
>
>What I want to now is, if I open the top of my airbox, I already have
>a Twin Air filter and this straight through exhaust, which main jet
>should I use ?
>
>Which is the stock main jet ?
>
>At present configuration (stock airbox without the snorkel + Twin Air)
>the bike is great at low/mid rpms but the high range was shortened.
>The bike is also backfiring a little when I close the throttle and the
>engine seems to be running a little hotter. It's difficult to start
>the engine too, even when it's hot. So, I guess I am running a little
>lean.
>
>Should I open the airbox and try the 140 main jet ?
>
>I have already ordered a Dynojet Stage 2 kit but it is in backorder
>until September, so I would try this solution meanwhile, what do you
>guys think ?
>
>I have never opened a carb, should I try to change the main jet by
>myself ?
>
>To what should I pay special attention ?
>
>Please reply as soon as you can (I would really appreciate it) because
>I am about to change the shock to a White Power unit, so I would take
>the carb off and try to this myself tonight.
>
>Thanks a lot !
>
>ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
>Lisbon, Portugal
>http://drive.to/thundersub
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
>http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html
>
>[e-mail]
>ICQ# [3072424]
>
>* 1982 Honda Dax 70
>* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
>* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
>body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Mixture/idle Screw / Airbox
Date: 12 Aug 1999 22:29:34 +0100

Hi guys,

Really need your help quickly...

I already have the straight through exhaust, opened the airbox, put a
#140 main, raised the needle (clip on the 4th position from above) but
as I trying to see how many turn the mixture screw was able to do, I
somehow managed to forget which has the stock position...

As taking the carb off is a pain in the... I would like to get it the
best possible at the first try.

I don't have the T handle...

Any suggestions ?

About the airbox, there's a metal plate inside it that I know is to
avoid the possibility of the air filter get a spark and burn (at least
this is what I read in a mag...). I removed it... what do you guys
think ?

Thanks a lot !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wez" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) lights
Date: 12 Aug 1999 22:20:49 +0100

I am thinking about fitting some fog lights to my 96 DR350SP,
Is there a maximum wattage that I sould be looking for, so a dont drian the
battery.
And is there any legal height in which fog lights can be placed, as I wont
to place them each side of the head light.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mixture/idle Screw / Airbox
Date: 12 Aug 1999 19:51:30 -0600



ThunderSUB wrote:

> Hi guys,
>
> Really need your help quickly...
>
> I already have the straight through exhaust, opened the airbox, put a
> #140 main, raised the needle (clip on the 4th position from above) but
> as I trying to see how many turn the mixture screw was able to do, I
> somehow managed to forget which has the stock position...
>
> As taking the carb off is a pain in the... I would like to get it the
> best possible at the first try.
>
> I don't have the T handle...
>
> Any suggestions ?
>
> About the airbox, there's a metal plate inside it that I know is to
> avoid the possibility of the air filter get a spark and burn (at least
> this is what I read in a mag...). I removed it... what do you guys
> think ?
>
> Thanks a lot !
>
> ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
> Lisbon, Portugal
> http://drive.to/thundersub
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
> http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html
>
> [e-mail]
> ICQ# [3072424]
>
> * 1982 Honda Dax 70
> * 1993 Suzuki DR350S
> * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave subject blank
> body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).

Claudio,  If you are going to really get into tuning your DR you need the "T" on the
fuel screw so you can adjust it when the engine is warmed up and running. In your case,
start the engine, adjust the fuel screw with a short screwdriver.  Turn the adjuster
out untill the engine slows,  turn it in untill the engine slows, turn it back to half
way in between, thats as good as it gets.  To answer your question, if you have the
proper pilot jet the fuel screw should be approx 1.75 turns open. If you have to go
over 2.5 turns open, you will need a larger pilot jet.  I'm not sure what you mean by a
metal plate in the airbox but there is a backfire screen in the air boot that you can
remove and put on top of the airbox to keep the big pieces out after you have opened up
the airbox top to slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the screen.   Happy
trails.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Andrus Chesley)
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 14 Aug 1999 17:11:30 -0500

You guys and gals running the Acerbis tanks with dual pick ups.....
Question:???>>>  How much of the fuel is usable. I know it says 4+
gallons but  the dip in front seems fairly deep ( by the pic on Acerbis
website) and the fuel petcocks are located where?. Say we're running
down a two lane hiway trying to get to a camping riding area 500 miles
away........ how much of this fuel are you gonna be able to use before
running out??. I know the IMS 3.5 gals tank is only good for about 2.4
gallons with out having to stop and slosh gas to the pickup side and you
still don't get it out of the front dip.
Thanks people

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Airbox/frame/rear fender - should I seal it with silicone ? / broken screws and nuts
Date: 15 Aug 1999 01:11:00 +0100

Hi,

About the airbox...

Between the rear sub-frame, the top of the airbox and the top of the
rear fender, there was FOAM to fill the gaps and to avoid dirt, debris
& water to get into the airbox. Now, with an opened airbox this seems
even more important.

The stock foam was in really bad condition so I removed it.

Now I am thinking about 2 options :

- Put silicone where the foam was and seal the gaps;
- or should I buy custom made rubber gaskets (or is it called strips
?), glue them to the top of the airbox (just like the stock foam was)
to seal the gaps.

Which one should I choose ? I was told silicone works the best...

The airbox is fixed to the frame by 3 screws. Somehow I managed to
"over - screw" one of them (from behind the bike, it's the right top
one) and it broke in two, so now I have half a screw inside the
airbox's "nut" and I just can't get it out. Any ideas of how can I
remove this "half screw with no head/top" from the "nut" ?

The thing is if I can't get it out, I will be reduced to just 2 screws
to fix the airbox to the frame and like that it just doesn't fit like
it used to.

Thanks a lot in advance.

PS - Never mind my English.

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tuning the DR / Airbox and jetting
Date: 15 Aug 1999 00:50:44 +0100

Hi guys,

I have opened the airbox (using Twin Air filter), remove the backfire
screen, added a straight through exhaust and have reached the final
jetting :

- 140 main (stock was 135)
- needle in the 4th clip
- idle/mixture screw 2.5 turns out

The bike is pulling very strong at low/mid rpms. Throttle response is
way better ! It's wheeling on power alone in second (13/43 sprockets)
and it definitely feels stronger all over the rpm range. Even in 6th
gear roll-ons (from low rpm), it pulls evenly and doesn't hesitate a
bit. However, I think it could be even stronger at high rpms.

I have ordered a Dynojet Stage 2 kit and I am still waiting for it to
get the proper jetting (gonna take it to a dyno).

I still have some doubts about the jetting :

First, when I just blip the throttle, the engine seems to hang during
1 second before dropping to the idle rpm (although it idles fine). Is
it too lean ? I probably need a larger pilot jet (don't have right
now) or should I try  3 turns out at the mixture screw ?

When I ride for some time at full throttle, then close the throttle,
the bike backfires a little, is this normal ? What does it mean (a
larger pilot jet ?) ?

Please tell me your opinions and advice.

Thanks !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 15 Aug 1999 16:47:27 -0600

The last 1 gallon or so runs out slowly, so that my carb sometimes starves
for gas while I hold the throttle nearly wide open for sustained periods.
(Yes, I do ride like that.)  More normal riding and it is not a problem
getting all 4.0 gals out of the tank.  TW



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Tires
Date: 15 Aug 1999 20:26:27 EDT

Hello all,
I am about to purchase a new set of tires for my 97 DR350SE.  Since I ride
mostly off road I am going with off road tires.  Here in Florida we have a
lot of sand but there is some clay and hard surface as well.  I am looking at
tires for intermediate terrain as a compromise and I wondered if anyone has
had experience with the following models: Pirelli MT 44,  Michelin M12, or
Dunlop D756.  Any other recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Tires
Date: 16 Aug 1999 16:39:10 +0200

If you are looking for a good DUAL-SPORT tire, I think that this is the best
wheel. It is very similar at MT21, but it has better yield, as much in
off-road as on-road, and very superior duration and yield in hard land
(asphalt) thanks to their new technology

Try the BRIDGESTONE TW302 and
TW301.(http://www.bridgestone-tyres.com/guide/tw302-r.htm and
http://www.bridgestone-tyres.com/guide/tw301-f.htm ). They are an excellent
commitment between yield(off-on road) and duration (in mixed use, 70 on-30
off, it can last 8000 km-5000 miles.... if your use is 50-50 or 70off-30on
I think that it can last a lot km more).

In the Bridgestone, you can read this about the TW302-301:
"Perhaps the ultimate dual purpose tyre!

Constructed using Bridgestone's patented SACT technology (Straight And
Cornering Technology); this gives a harder centre section to prolong the
centre life of the tread whilst offering a softer shoulder compound for grip
when cornering.

Tread block separation in the style of a Motocross tyre completes the
tyres's dual purpose nature by allowing off road use."

Bye

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo

-----Mensaje original-----
De: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: lunes 16 de agosto de 1999 2:28
Asunto: (dr350) Tires


>Hello all,
>I am about to purchase a new set of tires for my 97 DR350SE.  Since I ride
>mostly off road I am going with off road tires.  Here in Florida we have a
>lot of sand but there is some clay and hard surface as well.  I am looking
at
>tires for intermediate terrain as a compromise and I wondered if anyone has
>had experience with the following models: Pirelli MT 44,  Michelin M12, or
>Dunlop D756.  Any other recommendations would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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subject blank
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>





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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 10:00:05 -0700

The petcocks on the Acerbis tanks are located low in the front section of the tank.

Range will be less than 200 miles on a DR 350.

I've hit reserve at 186 miles on my Clarke tank equipped DR350SE

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Saturday, August 14, 1999 3:12 PM

You guys and gals running the Acerbis tanks with dual pick ups.....
Question:???>>>  How much of the fuel is usable. I know it says 4+
gallons but  the dip in front seems fairly deep ( by the pic on Acerbis
website) and the fuel petcocks are located where?. Say we're running
down a two lane hiway trying to get to a camping riding area 500 miles
away........ how much of this fuel are you gonna be able to use before
running out??. I know the IMS 3.5 gals tank is only good for about 2.4
gallons with out having to stop and slosh gas to the pickup side and you
still don't get it out of the front dip.
Thanks people

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Eusebio Costa" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 18:25:00 -0300

I┤ve also done around 200 miles (360 or so km) with my Acerbis Tank, around
25 km/l or if you prefer 60 miles/gal. The problem is, when you hit reserve
(just 1 gal in the tank) the engine would start to fail and sometimes I even
had to remove the tank cap and blow into the tank, starting the engine
(electric start) so that it coul work again and I could get to the gas
station.



----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 1999 3:12 PM

You guys and gals running the Acerbis tanks with dual pick ups.....
Question:???>>>  How much of the fuel is usable. I know it says 4+
gallons but  the dip in front seems fairly deep ( by the pic on Acerbis
website) and the fuel petcocks are located where?. Say we're running
down a two lane hiway trying to get to a camping riding area 500 miles
away........ how much of this fuel are you gonna be able to use before
running out??. I know the IMS 3.5 gals tank is only good for about 2.4
gallons with out having to stop and slosh gas to the pickup side and you
still don't get it out of the front dip.
Thanks people

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fuel tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 14:38:09 -0700

    With all the talk on the problems with the Acerbis tank, I
was wondering if anyone has seen/used the 4.2 gal. tank from
Clark. I just found it in our new catalog from them. Looks
similar to the Acerbis.
    I have an Acerbis on order, but if I'm going to carry 4.2
gallons around I want to be able to use ALL of it, without
problems. Is the problem with the tank, or elsewhere?
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks - Maintenance
Date: 17 Aug 1999 00:41:26 +0100

Hi guys,

Has any of you ever removed the 2 fuel valves of the Acerbis tank ?

I have removed mine and they seem to have some sort of in-built fuel
filter that looks really dirty. Has any of you ever tried to clean it
?

What about cleaning the inside of the tank ? I bought mine used so I
would like to have it cleaned before I install it.

Since in Europe we use the metric system I can't figure which is the
diameter size of the fuel line, carb vent line, fuel filter and fuel
valve in inches. Can any of you USA or UK guys help me ?

The options are 3/16'' or 1/4'' or 5/16'' and 3/8'', which one is it ?

By the way I sealed my airbox/subframe/rear fender with silicone and
it's great !

Thanks in advance !

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://drive.to/thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1






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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fuel tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 21:37:30 -0600

I rode with a guy with a Clark tank on his DR.  It is shaped kinda like the
Acerbis, with less concavity for the knees (and looks slightly more rounded.
The owner was not very happy with it, though, and regretted not buying the
Acerbis (which is more $$).   The plastic on the Acerbis is thicker (I can
attest to how incredibly tough it is), and the Acerbis tank fit on my bike
very well (whereas the Clark required some modifications to the mounts.)

I like my Acerbis tank, as well as my Acerbis hand guards, wind dams, fork
guards, etc.  Most of the OEM plastic on my KTM Adventure is made by
Acerbis.  They make good stuff.  TW




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Fuel tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 21:35:12 -0700

I use the Clark tank, but it's petcock is near the rear of the tank, so
lots of fuel is inaccessible, unless your good at riding extended wheelies
(hehe).
With me, the inaccessible fuel is not an issue because I never let the fuel
get that low.  In five years, 11,600 miles on my DR I've only hit reserve
twice.  It's also a very rare occasion that I ride more than 170 miles in a
day, even then I always fuel up once during the day.  About the only riding
I do now is dirt.

The Acerbis tank's petcock is near the front, at the lower portion of the
tank, so the fuel is accessible but the when that little fuel is left in
the tank there is not enough weight to cause the fuel to flow out the
petcock and "uphill" into the carb.  This is because the petcock is located
lower than the carb's fuel intake.  I've heard people use a type of vacuum
operated fuel pump to solve this.

Another note on the Clark tank is the petcock contacts, or nearly does, the
upper cooling fin at the rear of the motor.  I had to use a dremel tool and
grind away a 1/2" diameter area so the petcock would clear.  Otherwise the
Clark tank fit perfect on my DR, and my brother's DR also - both 94 SE's.


-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, August 16, 1999 2:38 PM

    With all the talk on the problems with the Acerbis tank, I
was wondering if anyone has seen/used the 4.2 gal. tank from
Clark. I just found it in our new catalog from them. Looks
similar to the Acerbis.
    I have an Acerbis on order, but if I'm going to carry 4.2
gallons around I want to be able to use ALL of it, without
problems. Is the problem with the tank, or elsewhere?
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mimi Fujii-Strickler" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fuel tanks
Date: 16 Aug 1999 21:48:33 -0700

O.K., O.K. I agree with Doug.  Fill your tank at every available gas stop
(on your organized dual sport rides), and you should have plenty of gas in
your aftermarket tanks.

Let's talk about something much more important (to Me);  Front forks.  What
do I do?  I have a '96 DR350SE.  This winter I need to do something, or next
season I may hurt myself.  This season I am still getting used to this bike
(purchased in May for $2100).

Does anyone have a cure for the marshmallow front suspension of this bike?
Price is an issue, but not the total issue.

Thanks,

Dave S.
[e-mail]

-----Original Message-----


>I use the Clark tank, but it's petcock is near the rear of the tank, so
>lots of fuel is inaccessible, unless your good at riding extended wheelies
>(hehe).
>With me, the inaccessible fuel is not an issue because I never let the fuel
>get that low.  In five years, 11,600 miles on my DR I've only hit reserve
>twice.  It's also a very rare occasion that I ride more than 170 miles in a
>day, even then I always fuel up once during the day.  About the only riding
>I do now is dirt.
>
>The Acerbis tank's petcock is near the front, at the lower portion of the
>tank, so the fuel is accessible but the when that little fuel is left in
>the tank there is not enough weight to cause the fuel to flow out the
>petcock and "uphill" into the carb.  This is because the petcock is located
>lower than the carb's fuel intake.  I've heard people use a type of vacuum
>operated fuel pump to solve this.
>
>Another note on the Clark tank is the petcock contacts, or nearly does, the
>upper cooling fin at the rear of the motor.  I had to use a dremel tool and
>grind away a 1/2" diameter area so the petcock would clear.  Otherwise the
>Clark tank fit perfect on my DR, and my brother's DR also - both 94 SE's.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Wayne Marsula' [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 2:38 PM
>To: DR 350 Mial List
>Subject: (dr350) Fuel tanks
>
> With all the talk on the problems with the Acerbis tank, I
>was wondering if anyone has seen/used the 4.2 gal. tank from
>Clark. I just found it in our new catalog from them. Looks
>similar to the Acerbis.
> I have an Acerbis on order, but if I'm going to carry 4.2
>gallons around I want to be able to use ALL of it, without
>problems. Is the problem with the tank, or elsewhere?
>Wayne Marsula'
>Escondido, CA
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) website taking place
Date: 16 Aug 1999 22:36:17 -0700

 Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 17 Aug 1999 02:12:21 -0500

I need more info on riding in the George Washington Nat'l forest.  What
was that info posted here before?  Where do you get a map of the forest
and to where do you haul your bike.

thanks
Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, Fl - soon to be in Virginia
'92 DR350S

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 17 Aug 1999 05:47:44 PDT

Wow Doug....I only manage to get about 140 miles MAX out of my Clarke tank
before hitting reserve.  I wish I had gotten one of the other tanks to be
able to use the fuel on both sides of the tank.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
>To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
>Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
>Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 10:00:05 -0700
>
>The petcocks on the Acerbis tanks are located low in the front section of
>the tank.
>
>Range will be less than 200 miles on a DR 350.
>
>I've hit reserve at 186 miles on my Clarke tank equipped DR350SE
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:    Andrus Chesley [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent:    Saturday, August 14, 1999 3:12 PM
>To:    DRList
>Subject:    (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
>
>You guys and gals running the Acerbis tanks with dual pick ups.....
>Question:???>>>  How much of the fuel is usable. I know it says 4+
>gallons but  the dip in front seems fairly deep ( by the pic on Acerbis
>website) and the fuel petcocks are located where?. Say we're running
>down a two lane hiway trying to get to a camping riding area 500 miles
>away........ how much of this fuel are you gonna be able to use before
>running out??. I know the IMS 3.5 gals tank is only good for about 2.4
>gallons with out having to stop and slosh gas to the pickup side and you
>still don't get it out of the front dip.
>Thanks people
>
>--
>Cheers and Best Regards
>Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
>'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
>'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
>"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
>http://www.deltech.net/members/aches
>
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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>subject blank
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>
>
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Chuck Coughlin" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) For Sale
Date: 17 Aug 1999 08:01:09 -0500



SInce everybody is talking about gas tanks, I have a couple for sale.

A Clarke over size gas tank. White, some scuffs. Make me an offer.

A stock 1990 DR350s model perfect. I took this tank of as soon as I bought the
bike. I replaced it with the Clarke Tank. Again make me an offer. This tank is
also white with the blue stickers.

Located near Chicago, IL. Will ship.

Chuck C.
[e-mail]



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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) website taking place
Date: 17 Aug 1999 06:03:15 PDT

I just got Jesse's Vortex airbox in the mail yesterday.  Plan on installing
this eve.  I'll let you guys know how it goes.

By the way Jesse, it looks great!!  The quality of construction is
immediately apparent, and the improved airflow would be obvious to anyone
just by looking at it.

To you other guys who have installed Jesse's airbox, what jetting did you
end up with?  I've got a 147.5 main I'm gonna put in tonight, along w/ a 1
size larger pilot (40 I think).

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) website taking place
>Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:36:17 -0700
>
>  Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
>town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
>http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
>
>
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>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) For Sale
Date: 17 Aug 1999 06:34:40 -0700

Chuck Coughlin wrote:
>
> SInce everybody is talking about gas tanks, I have a couple for sale.
> A Clarke over size gas tank. White, some scuffs. Make me an offer.
> A stock 1990 DR350s model perfect. I took this tank of as soon as I bought the
> bike. I replaced it with the Clarke Tank. Again make me an offer. This tank is
> also white with the blue stickers.

So Chuck,
    Tell us all, how many miles do you get with no tank? I
guess it saves a lot of weight though.
Wayne Marsula'

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Chuck Coughlin" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) For Sale
Date: 17 Aug 1999 08:31:17 -0500



>So Chuck,
>    Tell us all, how many miles do you get with no tank? I
>guess it saves a lot of weight though.
>Wayne Marsula'

You're a funny guy Wayne!

I am currently running a stock plastic DR tank. I had a guy at work weld on some
mounts so I could bolt the plastic tank in the stock places. In the riding I do,
it has plenty of range. I'm always running with those 2 strokes that have a 50
mile range.

Chuck



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From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 17 Aug 1999 10:11:40 -0400

Ok,

It's time for a new set of bars, my stockers are about shot. I just wanted
to draw on others experiences.

 Do I

A) Go out and get the cheapest set of bars possible and just deal with the
     fact I will be replacing them every once in a while
B) Get some Renthals and hope they are about 4 times stronger than
     cheap bars to justify thier price
C) By Protapers with top clamp and pray that they are the last set of bars I
will
     ever need on  the bike

Thanks in advance,

- Jeff
'98 DRse



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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 17 Aug 1999 09:00:04 -0700

Jeff I vote for option " c " they are worth every penny. Jesse

Jeff Herald wrote:

> Ok,
>
> It's time for a new set of bars, my stockers are about shot. I just wanted
> to draw on others experiences.
>
>  Do I
>
> A) Go out and get the cheapest set of bars possible and just deal with the
>      fact I will be replacing them every once in a while
> B) Get some Renthals and hope they are about 4 times stronger than
>      cheap bars to justify thier price
> C) By Protapers with top clamp and pray that they are the last set of bars I
> will
>      ever need on  the bike
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> - Jeff
> '98 DRse
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) website taking place
Date: 17 Aug 1999 09:03:20 -0700

Bryan , thanks for the kind words, sounds like a good place to start on the
jetting
Jesse
Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I just got Jesse's Vortex airbox in the mail yesterday.  Plan on installing
> this eve.  I'll let you guys know how it goes.
>
> By the way Jesse, it looks great!!  The quality of construction is
> immediately apparent, and the improved airflow would be obvious to anyone
> just by looking at it.
>
> To you other guys who have installed Jesse's airbox, what jetting did you
> end up with?  I've got a 147.5 main I'm gonna put in tonight, along w/ a 1
> size larger pilot (40 I think).
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
> >From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
> >Reply-To: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
> >To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
> >Subject: (dr350) website taking place
> >Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:36:17 -0700
> >
> >  Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
> >town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
> >http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> >subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
Date: 17 Aug 1999 10:04:33 -0700

I get this range probably due to the fact that I haven't changed the
jetting or other settings.  My brother's DR would get less range than mine
after he changed his jetting and had Thumper do the 435 kit done to his
motor.

Doug

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Tuesday, August 17, 1999 5:48 AM

Wow Doug....I only manage to get about 140 miles MAX out of my Clarke tank
before hitting reserve.  I wish I had gotten one of the other tanks to be
able to use the fuel on both sides of the tank.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
>To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
>Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
>Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 10:00:05 -0700
>
>The petcocks on the Acerbis tanks are located low in the front section of
>the tank.
>
>Range will be less than 200 miles on a DR 350.
>
>I've hit reserve at 186 miles on my Clarke tank equipped DR350SE
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:    Andrus Chesley [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent:    Saturday, August 14, 1999 3:12 PM
>To:    DRList
>Subject:    (dr350) Acerbis Tanks
>
>You guys and gals running the Acerbis tanks with dual pick ups.....
>Question:???>>>  How much of the fuel is usable. I know it says 4+
>gallons but  the dip in front seems fairly deep ( by the pic on Acerbis
>website) and the fuel petcocks are located where?. Say we're running
>down a two lane hiway trying to get to a camping riding area 500 miles
>away........ how much of this fuel are you gonna be able to use before
>running out??. I know the IMS 3.5 gals tank is only good for about 2.4
>gallons with out having to stop and slosh gas to the pickup side and you
>still don't get it out of the front dip.
>Thanks people
>
>--
>Cheers and Best Regards
>Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
>'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
>'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
>"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
>http://www.deltech.net/members/aches
>
>
>
>#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 17 Aug 1999 09:58:27 -0700

I'm using Alumalite CR high bend bars on my bike.  I cut them down by 3/4" on each end.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Tuesday, August 17, 1999 7:12 AM

Ok,

It's time for a new set of bars, my stockers are about shot. I just wanted
to draw on others experiences.

 Do I

A) Go out and get the cheapest set of bars possible and just deal with the
     fact I will be replacing them every once in a while
B) Get some Renthals and hope they are about 4 times stronger than
     cheap bars to justify thier price
C) By Protapers with top clamp and pray that they are the last set of bars I
will
     ever need on  the bike

Thanks in advance,

- Jeff
'98 DRse



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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 17 Aug 1999 11:02:31 PDT

Hey Jeff-  My experience: bought Aluminite 7000 bars at local shop that had
good price (close to catalogs @ $70).  I have since crashed *fairly* hard on
them once, and have had about a dozen or so falls of varying intensity.
They are as straight as new.  Dont know if this is a "duh" or what.  My
stockers were OK....I was just in a mood to throw money at the bike :)

If anyone wants a set of stock steel bars off my 95 DR350SE... let me know.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) New Bars
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 10:11:40 -0400
>
>Ok,
>
>It's time for a new set of bars, my stockers are about shot. I just wanted
>to draw on others experiences.
>
>  Do I
>
>A) Go out and get the cheapest set of bars possible and just deal with the
>      fact I will be replacing them every once in a while
>B) Get some Renthals and hope they are about 4 times stronger than
>      cheap bars to justify thier price
>C) By Protapers with top clamp and pray that they are the last set of bars
>I
>will
>      ever need on  the bike
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>- Jeff
>'98 DRse
>
>
>
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From: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 17 Aug 1999 14:58:50 -0400

Jeff:
    After going with plan A several times in the last few months, I have moved
on to plan D - a moderately priced ($48) set of aluminum bars (not
Renthals, but they looks the same). After doing a dual sport ride last
weekend and surviving a few crashes, I would say that they are definitely
much better than the cheap bars.

Keith Browning

----------
> From: Jeff Herald <[e-mail]>
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr350) New Bars
> Date: Tuesday, August 17, 1999 10:11 AM
>
> Ok,
>
> It's time for a new set of bars, my stockers are about shot. I just
wanted
> to draw on others experiences.
>
>  Do I
>
> A) Go out and get the cheapest set of bars possible and just deal with
the
>      fact I will be replacing them every once in a while
> B) Get some Renthals and hope they are about 4 times stronger than
>      cheap bars to justify thier price
> C) By Protapers with top clamp and pray that they are the last set of
bars I
> will
>      ever need on  the bike
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> - Jeff
> '98 DRse
>
>
>
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> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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subject blank
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From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Front Suspension
Date: 17 Aug 1999 21:58:53 -0700

Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
my DR sooner than later.

Please Respond if anyone has info.

Strick
-----Original Message-----


> Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
>town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
>http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
>
>
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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) About oils and more...
Date: 18 Aug 1999 14:14:13 +0200

(Sorry for the mistakes... I=B4m using a translator program)

What oil is it better for a single cylinder motorcycle (DR350SE)? Synthet=
ic
or
mineral?. I have heard several comments on the synthetic oils and the sin=
gle
cylinders:
- The motorcycles with tendency to spend oil (single  cylinder, and all
bigger cylinder capacity, worse), they spend much more the synthetic oil
that the mineral. This is due to the own structure of the single cylinder=
s
motors, because they have some much bigger tolerances , and the synthetic
oil is more flowing than the mineral
- The synthetic oil is much more expensive, and its main advantage reside=
s
in that can last 15000 km or much more... but if the changes of oil are m=
ade
each 5000 or 6000 km, it doesn't have a lot of interest

I use mineral oil Motul2000 (Api SH, is a car oil). I have also heard tha=
t
the oils with API SH should not be used in motorcycles ... is this true?
Is there some problem to use a good oil car mineral in motorbikes?

Does It really has advantages the synthetic oil when the motorcycle is us=
ed
a lot of time (high temperatures) does it has better yield or is it as a
mineral, alone oil that has bigger duration?

Is it normal that my DR warms very much? Why when the DR is very hot, doe=
s
the clutch lose " tact "? Does it affect the used oil?

Our DR=B4s doesn't have indicator of temperature (they don't have liquid
cooled)... How do we know when we are circulating with the motorcycle in
HIGH TEMP?
The other day, I used the DR during some 5-6 followed hours... and I didn=
't
know if it was circulating with the too hot engine or not... can you
circulate 5-6-7 and more hours (if we tolerate) with the DR without probl=
ems
of temperature?

Is it normal, when the DR is very hot that in the engine noises are heard=
?

Another question... I use the mineral... but if wants to change to synthe=
tic
oil that would have to make so that was a sure change? is it enough with =
to
empty the mineral oil and to change the oil filter , and later to add the
synthetic oil?


 Thank you and bye.

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Suspension
Date: 18 Aug 1999 06:22:18 PDT

Bob Bell @ Precision Concepts, El Cajon, CA. did my forks & shock.  I
couldn't be happier with them.  Dont have any contact info with me, but if
you search the archives you'll find his ph#.  The cost was a little less
than $500 for stiffer springs all around, RaceTech cartridge emulators in
front, custom reworked valve in rear, new seals & fluids.  I told him my
weight & how I ride, & he set everything up perfectly for me.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
>To: "jessekientz" <[e-mail]>,"'DR350 list'" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Front Suspension
>Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 21:58:53 -0700
>
>Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
>feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
>my DR sooner than later.
>
>Please Respond if anyone has info.
>
>Strick
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 10:41 PM
>Subject: (dr350) website taking place
>
>
> > Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
> >town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
> >http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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>subject blank
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> >
>
>
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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
Date: 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT

Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
box to the carb, but not a big deal.

Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.  I
already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set the
needle on the 4th clip down.

When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I fiddled
w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would idle.
  I took off on a short test ride:

1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good before).

2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as smooth
as it should be.

3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.  Can
run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.

4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
quiet core).


How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my last
trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust might
help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
could live with the noise though.

Comments/help appreciated-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


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From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
Date: 18 Aug 1999 08:07:28 -0600


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 7:46 AM


> Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
> went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
> box to the carb, but not a big deal.
>
> Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.
I
> already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
the
> needle on the 4th clip down.
>
> When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I
fiddled
> w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
idle.
>   I took off on a short test ride:
>
> 1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
> Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
> powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
before).
>
> 2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
> rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as
smooth
> as it should be.
>
> 3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.
Can
> run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
>
> 4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
> quiet core).
>
>
> How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my
last
> trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
> screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
> Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust
might
> help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
> could live with the noise though.
>
> Comments/help appreciated-
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE


The pilot screw adjust fuel mixture at idle.  For midrange adjustment you
will need to adjust your needle posititon.  Sounds like you may be lean, so
you need to raise your needle(drop the clip) a notch or two.  Opening up the
exhaust will make your engine run even more lean.

Good luck!

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Front Suspension
Date: 18 Aug 1999 07:48:49 -0700

Hi Strick, In most of the cases I have found that the front springs are not
stiff enough In my own experience I have tried progresseive suspension heaviest
spring and they have worked better. I also have experimented with XR600 front
springs. A starting point would be .41kg or23# Eibach spring not knowing your
weight of course makes it difficult to suggest the proper spring . Norm Kouba
is probably a better source than myself as he specializes in suspensions. Hope
this helps.  Jesse

Strick wrote:

> Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
> feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
> my DR sooner than later.
>
> Please Respond if anyone has info.
>
> Strick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
> To: 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
> Date: Monday, August 16, 1999 10:41 PM
> Subject: (dr350) website taking place
>
> > Hi guys check out my website just getting it up and running. Was out of
> >town Sunday and Monday due to a death in the family.      Jesse
> >http://209.162.216.67/Index.htm
> >
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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> subject blank
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: airbox hose problems
Date: 18 Aug 1999 08:06:46 -0700

Hi Bryan, I find that connecting the hose first solidly to the carb prior to
inserting the airbox especially the right side once it is secure you insert the
airbox from the left side into place holding the box to the rearof the bike then
insert the hose onto the airbox then slide it forward into place and fasten in
place with the fasteners then clamp the rear section of the hose manifold to the
airbox . Fred is correct sounds like the needle needs adjusting I normally
suggest the 4th groove down. hope this helps. I must say I do not recommend
looping almost is ok but looping messes up the paint on your helmet and possibly
other things.  Hope this helps feel free to contact me any time.  Jesse

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> Hi Jesse-
>
> I put the airbox in last night.  I'm having a problem w/ the connecting hose
> from carb-to-box.  The duct stuff seems so rigid as to not be able to do the
> slight offset bend it needs to do between box & carb.  This has 2 bad
> results:
>
> 1) its forcing my carb in an unnatural position so that the top of my cables
> are now pressed hard against my tank (I have a Clarke tank), resulting in an
> ever-so-slight bind on the cables
>
> 2) I *think* I have a good seal at the carb and box, but it looks
> questionable: when looking at carb from the curb side of bike, the hose isnt
> seated as far toward the carb body as it is on the street side of the carb,
> where it is nearly flush.  I also have a noticable gap on the box
> connection, but due to the longer length of the shoulder coming of the box
> that the clamp has to grab onto, I'm pretty sure this is a firm seal.  I'm
> worried about the carb seal though.  I undid, twisted, torqued, & tried
> several times to get a better alignment/position of the hose between the box
> and carb....the best I can get doesnt look good enough.
>
> The hose clamp seems to be wider than the area of of the carb that the hose
> slips onto, resulting in a "squish effect" when you tighten the hose
> clamp....forcing it off the carb.  I tried using the narrower clamp off the
> stock airboot, but it was too small.
>
> If you should ever "re-think" your choice of connection hose, please let me
> know.
>
> I also have some questions about tuning which I will post to the DR list.
>
> Thanks-
>
> Bryan Landers
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Suspension
Date: 18 Aug 1999 13:59:58 EDT

Strick,

I have a '93DR350S and had the front forks Race Tech'd and new springs after
1 off road ride. That was 2 or 3 years ago and they work great on the trails.
Only recently as my skill level has increased a little and I am going on some
motocross tracks do I have any complaints with bottoming.  I know that no
matter what you do to the forks they will not be moto ready so I really
cannot complain.

John

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "William Slade" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) ????
Date: 18 Aug 1999 13:04:08 -0500

unsubscribe



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Bars
Date: 18 Aug 1999 17:07:54 EDT

Jeff;

IMHO, forget the "cheapies"; they are a waste of money and effort (as in the
effort expended to replace them frequently). If you do any off road riding
the low rent bars will twist themselves into a pretzle the first time you
plant it. The Pro Tapers are great bars, for a great price and then you have
to buy the adapter to mount them (some guys swear by these bars so you'll
probably get a bunch of pro Pro Taper responses). The Renthals are kind of a
happy medium; not too expensive and not too cheap. I bought a set for my dirt
only ' 93 DR350 and they have held up well, even after a few intimate
contacts with terra firma. Just my 2 cents worth...good luck.

Mike
' 93 DR350

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) About oils and more...
Date: 18 Aug 1999 17:14:35 EDT

Kevin;

IMHO, buy the best stuff your wallet can afford. The oil in the air-cooled DR
is the single most important fluid (and the only fluid for dirt only types)
in the bike. It 's function is not just to lube the crank but also the clutch
and gearbox; it is also a critical component in providing engine cooling. I
use Castrol 5w40 full-synthetic motorcycle oil and the bike runs much better;
it revs quicker, shifts better and the clutch is like silk (and no, I don't
work for Castrol).

Mike
' 93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List growth...
Date: 18 Aug 1999 15:15:44 -0600

The DR list continues to grow well, we are now at 172 and growing each day.
Thanks for making this list such a good resource...

Kurt Simpson
Salt Lake City


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Helmet cam video from Moab dualsport rally
Date: 18 Aug 1999 18:10:35 -0700

The White Rim helmet cam video is ready (at last!!)  Cost will be $17.00.
 If anyone is interested in ordering the video, please send me an e-mail
for ordering details.

Also check my recently update web page at:
 http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969


Doug
'94 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: Front Suspension
Date: 19 Aug 1999 08:30:12 -0400

Hi,

I was thinking about using Larry Roesler (Progressive Suspension
actually,
I think) progressive wound springs.  They have a rate of 20 - 30 lbs and
claim that the progressive winding of the spring gives a plush ride with
resistance to hard-bottoming.

Does anyone have experience with progressively wound fork springs?

Thanks...Mark
'98 DR350SE

jessekientz wrote:
>
> Hi Strick, In most of the cases I have found that the front springs are not
> stiff enough In my own experience I have tried progresseive suspension heaviest
> spring and they have worked better. I also have experimented with XR600 front
> springs. A starting point would be .41kg or23# Eibach spring not knowing your
> weight of course makes it difficult to suggest the proper spring . Norm Kouba
> is probably a better source than myself as he specializes in suspensions. Hope
> this helps.  Jesse
>
> Strick wrote:
>
> > Any ideas or personal experiences with the soft forks on a 96 DR350SE?  I
> > feel I have to do something, or I may find myself on the ground in front of
> > my DR sooner than later.
> >
> > Please Respond if anyone has info.
> >
> > Strick

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
Date: 19 Aug 1999 05:59:21 PDT

Last night I got her running a little better by turning in the T-handle
quite a bit and running the exhaust full open.  I dont think I can live with
the noise, though.  As I went down my quiet little neighborhood street, the
car alarm on every other parked car I passed would go off!!

What effect/how important is the crankcase vent tube?  It goes from the
crankcase to the airfilter box (stock and the Vortex box).  What does this
do?  If its really only a vent, any problem with tossing the hose all
together and just clamping a little vilter on top of the tube where the hose
connects to the crankcase?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
>Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT
>
>Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The installation
>went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from the
>box to the carb, but not a big deal.
>
>Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.  I
>already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
>the
>needle on the 4th clip down.
>
>When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I fiddled
>w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
>idle.
>  I took off on a short test ride:
>
>1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
>Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
>powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
>before).
>
>2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
>rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as smooth
>as it should be.
>
>3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.  Can
>run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
>
>4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
>quiet core).
>
>
>How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my last
>trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
>screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
>Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust might
>help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
>could live with the noise though.
>
>Comments/help appreciated-
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>95 DR350SE
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
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>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Herald" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
Date: 19 Aug 1999 09:59:01 -0400

Bryan,

Without a Dyno, jetting is largely an hit and miss operation, the best
way I have found to do this is to only adjust one thing at a time. It
takes alot of time, and patience, but in the long run, you will gain a
better understanding of what changes affect different parts of the
rpm range. Another thing that folks seem to ignore is that all of the
circuts in the carb overlap. For example while the fuel screw is
primarly used to adjust the idle circut, it also has signinficant impact
in the lower part of the mid-range as well. Sometimes raising the
needle one position can make a bike run too rich, in these instances,
it's probably better to crank out the fuel screw a couple of turns.

The 4k rougness sounds like its leaning out. Put the plates back in the
exhaust and either try messing with the fuel screw, or raising the needle.

The crank vent is an emissions reduction device. Instead of venting the
gasses generated it the cases to atmosphere, it sends them into the
airbox where they can be ingested by the engine and burnt. You can
plug the hole on the airbox, but don't clamp the case vent, go to the
auto parts store and grab yourself a little breather filter. Not venting
the case can lead to excessive oil consumption by increasing blow-by.

Hope this helps,

- Jeff
98 DRse
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 8:59 AM


> Last night I got her running a little better by turning in the T-handle
> quite a bit and running the exhaust full open.  I dont think I can live
with
> the noise, though.  As I went down my quiet little neighborhood street,
the
> car alarm on every other parked car I passed would go off!!
>
> What effect/how important is the crankcase vent tube?  It goes from the
> crankcase to the airfilter box (stock and the Vortex box).  What does this
> do?  If its really only a vent, any problem with tossing the hose all
> together and just clamping a little vilter on top of the tube where the
hose
> connects to the crankcase?
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
>
> >From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
> >Reply-To: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
> >To: [e-mail]
> >Subject: (dr350) Vortex airbox: tuning
> >Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:52 PDT
> >
> >Hey guys-  I installed Jesse's Vortex airbox last night.  The
installation
> >went smoothly.  I had a bit of a problem with the hose connection from
the
> >box to the carb, but not a big deal.
> >
> >Prior to installation, I dropped in a 147.5 main jet and a 40 pilot jet.
I
> >already had the T-handle adjuster, JXneedle/spring, & had previously set
> >the
> >needle on the 4th clip down.
> >
> >When reassembled, I couldn't get the bike to idle without dying.  I
fiddled
> >w/ the T-handle a bit, & turned in the idle screw a bit until it would
> >idle.
> >  I took off on a short test ride:
> >
> >1) DAMN!  I almost looped it in 1st the first time I really opened it up!
> >Very good instant response w/ no hesitation.  Comes on noticably more
> >powerful than before (w/ cut box & K&N filter....it was pretty good
> >before).
> >
> >2) When holding a steady speed at around 4K rpm, the bike runs a bit
> >rough....like its cutting out just a little...not much.  Just not as
smooth
> >as it should be.
> >
> >3) No popping on deceleration!  I was having that before, but not now.
Can
> >run to redline & let coast down to idle, & never hear a single pop.
> >
> >4)  I have a MegaMax exhaust w/ all plates (9?) in place (not using the
> >quiet core).
> >
> >
> >How do you guys think I can smooth out the rough midrange?  I think my
last
> >trial run last night I was about 2 turns out on the T-handle pilot adj
> >screw....should I be able to solve this w/ pilot screw adjustments alone?
> >Y'all think opening up the space between the plates at end of exhaust
might
> >help?  I'll probably try running it this eve w/ no plates....dont think I
> >could live with the noise though.
> >
> >Comments/help appreciated-
> >
> >Bryan in Dallas
> >95 DR350SE
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________________________
> >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> >
> >#Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> >#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> >Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> >subject blank
> >body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
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>
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subject blank
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>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Couple of Questions
Date: 19 Aug 1999 11:20:56 -0400

    First, I need to replace my front brake pads - should I stick with the
stock pads or go to aftermarket pads?  I ride mostly on the street with a
little off-roading mixed in.  When I do ride off-road, I try to stay away
form the mud; I won't ride it it's really muddy.
    Second, my clutch is doing weird things.  When I get on the gas hard, if I
lay my fingers across the clutch lever I can feel it being pulled out (away
from the bars).  When I let off the gas, it moves back towards the bars.  I
have tried adjusting the clutch at the perch, both ways, and it doesn't
seem to make a difference.  Is this something I should worry about?  Should
I adjust the clutch at other end (next to the engine)?

Thanks,
Keith Browning
Pittsburgh, PA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jack Alexander" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 90 DRS for Sale
Date: 20 Aug 1999 07:17:12 -0700

I have 2 DRs and want to sell my 90 DR350S.  Clarke Tank, Supertrapp EAR
(and regular SuperTrapp).  Less than 6K miles.  It's in good shape, it runs
good, and all that sales talk.  It is located near Reno Nevada.  $1750.

Jack Alexander
[e-mail]



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 20 Aug 1999 13:53:56 -0400

Hi,

I'm installing the kouba links today and ran into some confusion while
adjusting the sag.  I looked in the owner's manual and there's no
mention
of sag - but it sounds like the spring preload (right?).  It states that
a 'special tool' is needed.  I tried to back off the top ring but was
unable to turn it (I wedged in a screwdriver and tapped on it with a
hammer).
What's the best tool to use to turn the rings?

I take it I have to increase the preload to decrease the sag.  Should
the
rear tire be lifted when I adjust the ring?

Thanks...Mark
'98 DR350SE

jessekientz wrote:
>
> Kevin ,you are correct there is one ring on top of another you must loosen
> the top one first and back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch so it is out of the
> way of the bottom ring that was under it. then support the bike so that the
> back wheel is of the ground
> then measure from the center of the rear axle up to a rear section of the
> side cover and make a mark at 20 inches this is your base line now rotate
> the ring on top of the
> shock spring clockwise so it is compressing the spring, theoretically you
> want to be able to stand on the pegs with all your gear on with someone
> supporting the bike. retake the measurement and have it be17and1/2 inches, 2
> and 1/2 inches of sag. depending on your weight and the spring you may not
> achieve this measurement. get back to me if you have any questions.  Jesse
>
> kevin albrecht wrote:
>
> > I'm trying to install the kouba link.
> > Where do I adjust the sag?
> > Is it the ring on top of the spring?
> >
> > any help would be greatly appreciated!
> > kevin dr350se
> >

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) For Sale.......Still
Date: 20 Aug 1999 13:02:54 -0500

http://vip.hpnc.com/~bluttman/dr350



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 20 Aug 1999 11:24:02 -0700


> > > I'm trying to install the kouba link.
> > > Where do I adjust the sag?
> > > Is it the ring on top of the spring?
> > >
I just put the links in. There is very little room in there,
but you were on the right track. Only thing is, DON'T use a
steel (screwdriver) anything to move it. That will
eventually destroy the ring. I use a 1/2" brass drift, or
rod. That will not damage the ring.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 20 Aug 1999 14:48:53 -0700

HI mark, a screwdriver is probably used more than any other tool you just have to
back the top ring off and go the other way on the bottom ring thereby compressing
the spring. the wheel should be of the floor while doing this. Prior to doing this
I would measure from the center of the axle to a convenient placeup on the side
cover and make a mark to reference to at 20 inches this is with the wheel of the
ground. To check your sag you tighten the spring 3-4 turns then drop the bike down
and stand up on the pegs while someone supports the bike and take another
measurement the difference is your sag basically the amount of drop in the
suspension from loaded to unloaded. I have good news the 98 DR350 dirt model does
have a compression release. So I feel I can probably retrofit a compression
release to your bike,valve springs etc. I will check on the megacycle/ white bros
arrangement I heard that they use the web cams. I will find this out.  Jesse

Mark Sims wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm installing the kouba links today and ran into some confusion while
> adjusting the sag.  I looked in the owner's manual and there's no
> mention
> of sag - but it sounds like the spring preload (right?).  It states that
> a 'special tool' is needed.  I tried to back off the top ring but was
> unable to turn it (I wedged in a screwdriver and tapped on it with a
> hammer).
> What's the best tool to use to turn the rings?
>
> I take it I have to increase the preload to decrease the sag.  Should
> the
> rear tire be lifted when I adjust the ring?
>
> Thanks...Mark
> '98 DR350SE
>
> jessekientz wrote:
> >
> > Kevin ,you are correct there is one ring on top of another you must loosen
> > the top one first and back it off 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch so it is out of the
> > way of the bottom ring that was under it. then support the bike so that the
> > back wheel is of the ground
> > then measure from the center of the rear axle up to a rear section of the
> > side cover and make a mark at 20 inches this is your base line now rotate
> > the ring on top of the
> > shock spring clockwise so it is compressing the spring, theoretically you
> > want to be able to stand on the pegs with all your gear on with someone
> > supporting the bike. retake the measurement and have it be17and1/2 inches, 2
> > and 1/2 inches of sag. depending on your weight and the spring you may not
> > achieve this measurement. get back to me if you have any questions.  Jesse
> >
> > kevin albrecht wrote:
> >
> > > I'm trying to install the kouba link.
> > > Where do I adjust the sag?
> > > Is it the ring on top of the spring?
> > >
> > > any help would be greatly appreciated!
> > > kevin dr350se
> > >


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 21 Aug 1999 09:21:55 -0700

Guys,

In the tool kit that came with my DR was a small, although functional,
spanner wrench made for turning the preload and the lock nuts on the
shock.  If you did not get one in your tool kit from Suzuki they are
readily available at any auto supply store.  It is not expensive
(~$10.00) and well worth the frustration of trying to turn the nut using
a screwdriver of brass bar...

BTW, I too just received my Kouba Links and am pretty sure that I will
need a new spring.  Can anyone suggest a good source.  It has been
recommended that I might need a 7.6kg/mm spring based upon my weight.
Thanks for any help.

David Heverin
(2) 90 DR350's

Wayne Marsula' wrote:
>
> > > > I'm trying to install the kouba link.
> > > > Where do I adjust the sag?
> > > > Is it the ring on top of the spring?
> > > >
> I just put the links in. There is very little room in there,
> but you were on the right track. Only thing is, DON'T use a
> steel (screwdriver) anything to move it. That will
> eventually destroy the ring. I use a 1/2" brass drift, or
> rod. That will not damage the ring.
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 21 Aug 1999 10:11:55 -0700

Hi guys, I can get the Eibach 7.6 spring for you if you like, the cost is $85.00 +
shipping , Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Guys,
>
> In the tool kit that came with my DR was a small, although functional,
> spanner wrench made for turning the preload and the lock nuts on the
> shock.  If you did not get one in your tool kit from Suzuki they are
> readily available at any auto supply store.  It is not expensive
> (~$10.00) and well worth the frustration of trying to turn the nut using
> a screwdriver of brass bar...
>
> BTW, I too just received my Kouba Links and am pretty sure that I will
> need a new spring.  Can anyone suggest a good source.  It has been
> recommended that I might need a 7.6kg/mm spring based upon my weight.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> David Heverin
> (2) 90 DR350's
>
> Wayne Marsula' wrote:
> >
> > > > > I'm trying to install the kouba link.
> > > > > Where do I adjust the sag?
> > > > > Is it the ring on top of the spring?
> > > > >
> > I just put the links in. There is very little room in there,
> > but you were on the right track. Only thing is, DON'T use a
> > steel (screwdriver) anything to move it. That will
> > eventually destroy the ring. I use a 1/2" brass drift, or
> > rod. That will not damage the ring.
> > Wayne Marsula'
> > Escondido, CA
> >
> >
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Need DR350 Parts
Date: 21 Aug 1999 13:38:41 EDT

PLEASE HELP,

I have a 1990 DR350 Dirt only model.  I recently put a white brothers 385cc
piston kit in and was very happy with the results until I broke the counter
shaft in the transmission.  When the shaft broke it also caused the right
side engine case section to crack in several places.

I NEED A "RIGHT SIDE" ENGINE CASE SECTION!!  I've been doing the e-mail
salvage yard thing for two months with no success.  Twice I have been told
that a case section was on the way, only to later find that they actually
didn't have the part.


Thanks Ed

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need DR350 Parts
Date: 21 Aug 1999 11:02:52 -0700

Hans, Sorry to hear this but the only way to salvage this is to replace both halves, I
had to do this about two years ago and it needs to be done by someone that is very
knowledgable and detail oriented because there are lots of little pieces in those cases
that need to be tranferred. This is a potential weak point in the DR engine and is
further enhanced by those who do not do the compression release drill when starting the
bike. I recently salvaged one that was out riding and went to start the bike and the
kick starter locked up about half way down so he made no further effort to start the
bike  and towed it back to his truck. This manuver saved his cases. Because the shaft
that breaks is the output shaft and it breaks right behind the left support bearing
allowing the shaft to move back and forth inside the case creating much havoc. The new
case cost when I did this a couple of years ago was around $400.00 + plus gaskets and
whatever else is damaged inside. If you have any more Questions please feel free to
give me a call.  Jesse http:// kientech.com
[e-mail] wrote:

> PLEASE HELP,
>
> I have a 1990 DR350 Dirt only model.  I recently put a white brothers 385cc
> piston kit in and was very happy with the results until I broke the counter
> shaft in the transmission.  When the shaft broke it also caused the right
> side engine case section to crack in several places.
>
> I NEED A "RIGHT SIDE" ENGINE CASE SECTION!!  I've been doing the e-mail
> salvage yard thing for two months with no success.  Twice I have been told
> that a case section was on the way, only to later find that they actually
> didn't have the part.
>
> Thanks Ed
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need DR350 Parts
Date: 21 Aug 1999 17:22:46 EDT

Ed;

The only suggestion I can think of would be to stay with the salvage yards. A
new part from the dealer will no doubt be very painful to the wallet.
Something you may want to consider is repairing the broken part. There is a
substance called JB Weld (available a most hardware stores) and it will glue
and repair most metal castings. I used this stuff when I ham handedly tried
to remove the valve cover assembly on my
' 93 DR (dirt only) without removing all the bolts (I missed the one located
under the exhaust valve adjusting cover). I pried on the valve cover and it
cracked; they don't sell just the valve cover assembly, you must buy a whole
new cylinder head becasue the cam bearings are cut with both halves bolted
together to make a matched set.

I'm sure you've tried, but if you fire up your favorite search engine and put
in "motorcycle salvage" yu'll get a pretty good slection of sources to
persue. Wish I could help more...I think because of the longevity of this
bike, there's very little in the way of salvage out there...

Mike
' 93 DR350

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:
Date: 21 Aug 1999 19:50:30 -0700

Jesse,

Thanks for the quick response.  How do I go about ordering the spring
from you?

Do you also sell the VORTEX airbox?  If so, cost, and how do I order?

Dave


jessekientz wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I can get the Eibach 7.6 spring for you if you like, the cost is $85.00 +
> shipping , Jesse
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > BTW, I too just received my Kouba Links and am pretty sure that I will
> > need a new spring.  Can anyone suggest a good source.  It has been
> > recommended that I might need a 7.6kg/mm spring based upon my weight.
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > David Heverin
> > (2) 90 DR350's
> >

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From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Dual Sport Sept. 11-12th
Date: 22 Aug 1999 15:36:33 -0400 (EDT)

Is anyone planing to  head down to Golden Pond KY?

Kevin 98SE


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) eibach spring
Date: 22 Aug 1999 19:51:39 -0700

Jesse,

Thanks again for snding me to your web site. The VORTEX AIRBOX looks
great.  But, first things first.   I need to get my suspension ready to
support more power.  So, I have a Kouba Link in my hands and now need a
new shock spring.  I looked on the RACE-TECH site and although very
informative they did not tell me how to order a spring.  From their site
I have found that I want a 7.6kg/mm EIBACH spring (p/n:SESP 893076)
which has the dimensions 55x52x283 and will fit my 1990 DR350.  I got
your message saying that you could get one for me.  That's great!  How
do you want to work this.  Should I send a check?  $85.00 + shipping
(how much for shipping)?

Let me know, I am ready to start making this bike better.

Thanks,

Dave
...................................................
jessekientz wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I can get the Eibach 7.6 spring for you if you like, the cost is $85.00 +
> shipping , Jesse
>
> [e-mail] wrote:
>
> > BTW, I too just received my Kouba Links and am pretty sure that I will
> > need a new spring.  Can anyone suggest a good source.  It has been
> > recommended that I might need a 7.6kg/mm spring based upon my weight.
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > David Heverin
> > (2) 90 DR350's
> >

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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Carb hesitation...
Date: 22 Aug 1999 18:17:49 PDT


'98 DR350SE California model

  OK, that did it.  Yesterday I was riding at Hollister hills, Ca.  I
was just doing trail riding with no spectacular jumps.  After going
through some small jumps and whoop sections, if I tried to turn right
(with a lean) the bike would bog and try to die.  It was getting so
bad that I actually low sided because of it.

  I've already installed the "T" vent, but it doesn't appear to help.
I've also noticed that when the bike is cold, I can't lean it to the
right because it will die.  This is getting ridiculous.

What I've now done is:

o removed the "T" vent.

o removed all of the tubing associated with the carb with the
  exception of the petcock main line and vent (about 3 feet worth).

o removed the big square thing that had hoses go into it and sat right
  above the engine.

o removed what appears to be a PVC valve looking thing.

o routed a tube that goes from where the "T" vent was plugged into the
  carb, straight down with no possible way that gas can back up into
  it.

o plugged up the other vent in the gas tank.

  This seems to do the trick.  I can now lean the bike all the way
over to the right and the motor doesn't hesitate at all.  I haven't
tried whoops and jumps yet, but I will shortly.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) F.G. Scout for sale
Date: 23 Aug 1999 09:55:26 EDT

For Sale: First Gear Scout leather jacket with removable liner that buttons
in/out, brown, size 44 women's, just cleaned, has vents front and back and
arms, many pockets.  Paid $525.00 will sell for $300.00.

John

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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 13:33:30 -0600

I am apologizing in advance for troubling the list with what must be an age
old question.  I followed the list for a while when I was looking at DR350s
and then dropped off when I couldn't find one - now I have found one again I
need a bit of help from you gurus.

I have found a '92 DR350 with 11,000kms (6875miles) for $3000CDN
($2000USD) - good condition and its a street legal one.

I will be using it for trail riding Baja, Moab, etc...  I am not a very
aggressive rider on a scale of 1 to 10 I am a 5-6.  I weigh 170lbs naked -
maybe 200lbs with gear.

Is the suspension on the older DR's that bad for moderate riding?  or is the
suspension upgrade required for anything more than hacking around?

If the opinion is that some suspension work would need to be done what are
we talking about in $$$?

Finally is there anything else that needs to be done to older DR's for trail
riding?

Thanks for you time and patience,

Vik



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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 17:08:33 -0600

>I have found a '92 DR350 with 11,000kms (6875miles) for $3000CDN
>($2000USD) - good condition and its a street legal one.


I think you can do better Vik. But the main thing you have to watch for is the starting. The S models
didn't pick up lecky start until '94 and the earlier ones have a horrible reputation for starting. My
friend Susan has one I think about the same age and can only start it when cold with a push. I thought
it was maybe her leg until I tried it and had the same results.

Kurt


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Broken countershaft
Date: 23 Aug 1999 19:09:29 EDT

Ed,

Interested to know how/why the shaft broke on your 90 DR?

Guy

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From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 17:35:05 -0600

Some news which may or may not be news to you guys.

Talking to my dealer he said the '00 DR's will be 400cc liquid cooled bikes
coming in three versions from mild to wild.  He said its a totally new bike.

Not much news besides that.  Anyone here more?

Cheers,

Vik



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From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Broken countershaft
Date: 23 Aug 1999 17:12:13 -0700

Hi Guy, the kick start gear meshes with the kick start idler gear which is on the end
of the counter shaft this shaft goes straight through the cases and the counter
sprocket mounts to the left side. the shaft is hollow to provide oiling to the gears
that are on it. Where the shaft comes through the right side it goes through the left
support bearing at this point the shaft is thinner due to the hollowed center. when the
kick starter is used it applies a certain amount of pressure to that shaft trying to
turn the idler gear which meshes with the gear on the clutch which in turn meshes with
the crankshaft. This is all ok and is designed to live through this. Except when those
who do not adhere to the kick start ritual or drill.  When the engine comes up on
compression and is forced through it puts a serious load on this shaft and it breaks
right behind the bearing where the shaft goes from small to large. and then the only
thing supporting the shaft is the bearing behind the countershaft If riden this way it
moves back and forth and cuts through the back of the case. The cases are matched and
must be replaced as a pair as they contain both oil pumps machined into them. Thats it
in a nutshell  Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Ed,
>
> Interested to know how/why the shaft broke on your 90 DR?
>
> Guy
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 21:54:48 -0700

Kurt,

I am shocked!  :-)  The starting routine is partof the charm of the
non-electric start  DR350.  It's all in following the routine.  Don't
follow the prescribed steps and you are doomed to frustration, and a
tired body.  I bought a 1990 DR350 from a guy who claimed that id had
some serious mechanical problems because there was NOTHING he could do
to get it started.  I drained the old gas from the carb and in two kicks
it was running.  He was amazed (and probably thinking he might not sell
it after all).  I shut it off and he tried to start it.  Nothing.  I
paid $800 and loaded the bike in my truck.  It has run (and started)
perfectly since.

David
..........................................
Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
> >I have found a '92 DR350 with 11,000kms (6875miles) for $3000CDN
> >($2000USD) - good condition and its a street legal one.
>
> I think you can do better Vik. But the main thing you have to watch for is the starting. The S models
> didn't pick up lecky start until '94 and the earlier ones have a horrible reputation for starting. My
> friend Susan has one I think about the same age and can only start it when cold with a push. I thought
> it was maybe her leg until I tried it and had the same results.
>
> Kurt

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 22:29:22 EDT

In a message dated 8/23/99 5:10:09 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< The S models
 didn't pick up lecky start until '94 and the earlier ones have a horrible
reputation for starting. My
 friend Susan has one I think about the same age and can only start it when
cold with a push. I thought
 it was maybe her leg until I tried it and had the same results. >>


Oh yea.  We haven't had a good 'lectric start vs. kick start discussion on
this list in a long time.  The worst part about the 'lectric start model is
deciding what kind of coffee you want to be drinking when you press the magic
button.

Gino

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 22:34:23 EDT

In a message dated 8/23/99 7:54:05 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< The starting routine is partof the charm of the
 non-electric start  DR350.  >>

I have heard of this routine.  It involves sacrificing a virgin and drinking
goats blood after some ceremonial chants to the Carburetor Gods.

Gino

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 21:24:03 -0600

>Oh yea.  We haven't had a good 'lectric start vs. kick start discussion on
>this list in a long time.  The worst part about the 'lectric start model is
>deciding what kind of coffee you want to be drinking when you press the magic
>button.
>
>Gino



...actually Gino, every 3 months we just fabricate one of these posts to see if you're still there.
Also, word has it you've been a real lion on the KLR list and we thought the old kick start discussion
might have a calming affect on you...(g)

Kurt


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 23 Aug 1999 21:25:28 -0600

>to get it started.  I drained the old gas from the carb and in two kicks
>it was running.  He was amazed (and probably thinking he might not sell
>it after all).  I shut it off and he tried to start it.  Nothing.  I
>paid $800 and loaded the bike in my truck.  It has run (and started)
>perfectly since.
>
>David


must be that last little "snap" in your follow-through...

Kurt



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From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) shed pounds
Date: 24 Aug 1999 13:23:39 -0500

Hello all, I've got 99 DR350 dirt model and I was wondering if anyone had
some suggestions on how to shed a few extra pounds off the bike. '

Last week a buddy and I were trail riding along a river and I caught a
little too much traction on a turn and went over the river bank.  I dropped
about 12 to 13 feet straight down and landed about a foot from the water,
definitly the worst wreck of my 10+ years of riding.  Luckily I walked away
with just some scratches and a sore back.  I tell you what, that DR350 is
one tough bike.  A broken clutch lever was my only damage.  After about a
half hour of lifting my bike up the almost vertical bank I started thinking
how much of a bear it would be to start considering the bike was upside
down.  My buddy gave the mighty dr one kick and it started before he
completed a full kick.  He rode back to the truck, because I was a little
shaken up, and it rode as well as it did when I first bought the bike.  I
definetly convinced that I bought a great dependable bike.  Just thought I
would share my story with you guys.

Chris "Cliffhanger"

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350)reliable DR (was: shed pounds)
Date: 24 Aug 1999 12:40:19 PDT

Chris et al-
I can relate to your experience of the DR being able to take it on the chin!
  Don't know if you were around when I posted my Colorado trip report, but I
took my 95 SE (suspension, intake, exhaut mods, but stock engine) into some
really tough high altitude no-man's-land
Rocky Mountain trails of 12K+ feet.  The little bastard got me into some
VERY tough situations, and even after about 10+ lay-downs and as many
stalls, it got me back out again.  That was the ultimate test I could've
thrown at it, and it did great.  We got good bikes!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
>To: "350 mail list (E-mail)" <[e-mail]>
>CC: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) shed pounds
>Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:23:39 -0500
>
>Hello all, I've got 99 DR350 dirt model and I was wondering if anyone had
>some suggestions on how to shed a few extra pounds off the bike. '
>
>Last week a buddy and I were trail riding along a river and I caught a
>little too much traction on a turn and went over the river bank.  I dropped
>about 12 to 13 feet straight down and landed about a foot from the water,
>definitly the worst wreck of my 10+ years of riding.  Luckily I walked away
>with just some scratches and a sore back.  I tell you what, that DR350 is
>one tough bike.  A broken clutch lever was my only damage.  After about a
>half hour of lifting my bike up the almost vertical bank I started thinking
>how much of a bear it would be to start considering the bike was upside
>down.  My buddy gave the mighty dr one kick and it started before he
>completed a full kick.  He rode back to the truck, because I was a little
>shaken up, and it rode as well as it did when I first bought the bike.  I
>definetly convinced that I bought a great dependable bike.  Just thought I
>would share my story with you guys.
>
>Chris "Cliffhanger"
>
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>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
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>subject blank
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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 24 Aug 1999 10:01:47 -0700

I've heard about the DR 400 also but don't know any details.  A lot of
really trick 4 strokes are supposed to hit the market for the '00 model
year is also what I've heard.

db

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Monday, August 23, 1999 4:35 PM

Some news which may or may not be news to you guys.

Talking to my dealer he said the '00 DR's will be 400cc liquid cooled bikes
coming in three versions from mild to wild.  He said its a totally new
bike.

Not much news besides that.  Anyone here more?

Cheers,

Vik



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 24 Aug 1999 20:49:37 -0700

Gino,

EXACTLY!

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/23/99 7:54:05 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << The starting routine is partof the charm of the
>  non-electric start  DR350.  >>
>
> I have heard of this routine.  It involves sacrificing a virgin and drinking
> goats blood after some ceremonial chants to the Carburetor Gods.
>
> Gino

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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Southern Dual Sport Rides
Date: 25 Aug 1999 10:18:15 -0400

Just a reminder to ya'll:

Sept 18/19, Amsterdam Dual Sport Ride, Amsterdam GA. two day event to
benefit the "project Learning Tree" Foundation. Challenging to Difficult
trail through 14,000 acres of pine planted tabacco plantation in southern
GA. Amsterdam Is south of Bainbridge GA and North of Tallahassee FL.
PRE-ENTRY ONLY! Get your flyer and more info from the Withlacoochee Dual
Sport Riders (WDSRC) Website at http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245

Nov 6, Seminole Wind Dual Sport Ride, Eureka, FL
Ride the land Osceola Refused in the Treaty Of Moultry Creek. 135+ miles of
jeep trails, dirt roads, and paved roads in the northern Ocala National
Forest. Watch the WDSRC website for a flyer in the near future, or for more
info contact the WDSRC at [e-mail]

Don't forget to check out our Southern Dual Sport Rides calander with over
17 rides throughout the year in the South Eastern US!

Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet!"


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From: Eric Martin Seitz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question!
Date: 25 Aug 1999 07:29:24 -0700

I spend lots of quality time starting my beast! (WB 440 kit) :-)

Eric

At 09:54 PM 8/23/99 -0700, [e-mail] wrote:
>Kurt,
>
>I am shocked!  :-)  The starting routine is partof the charm of the
>non-electric start  DR350.  It's all in following the routine.  Don't
>follow the prescribed steps and you are doomed to frustration, and a
>tired body.  I bought a 1990 DR350 from a guy who claimed that id had
>some serious mechanical problems because there was NOTHING he could do
>to get it started.  I drained the old gas from the carb and in two kicks
>it was running.  He was amazed (and probably thinking he might not sell
>it after all).  I shut it off and he tried to start it.  Nothing.  I
>paid $800 and loaded the bike in my truck.  It has run (and started)
>perfectly since.
>
>David
>..........................................
>Kurt Simpson wrote:
>>
>> >I have found a '92 DR350 with 11,000kms (6875miles) for $3000CDN
>> >($2000USD) - good condition and its a street legal one.
>>
>> I think you can do better Vik. But the main thing you have to watch for is
>the starting. The S models
>> didn't pick up lecky start until '94 and the earlier ones have a horrible
>reputation for starting. My
>> friend Susan has one I think about the same age and can only start it when
>cold with a push. I thought
>> it was maybe her leg until I tried it and had the same results.
>>
>> Kurt
>
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>subject blank
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Eric Martin Seitz
QUALCOMM Inc.
[phone]


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Final results:  Vortex airbox
Date: 25 Aug 1999 12:53:13 PDT

Just a few comments about my recent experience w/ Jesse's Vortex airbox.
This is on a 95 DR350SE w/ a MegaMaxII exhaust.

I ended up w/ a 140 main, JX needle/spring (needle on 4th position from
top), the stock 37.5 pilot jet, and the T-handle adjuster 1.5 turns out.
This setup starts in an instant, runs smooth at any RPM, and has near
instant throttle response.  I have a little popping upon deceleration, but
its not too bad.  As Jesse suggested, I probably ought to have the stock
pilot jet drilled just a hair bigger.

I originally put in a 147 main and a 40 pilot when I first installed the
Vortex.  Way too rich.  Down to a 140 main, couldn't tell ANY difference in
how it ran.  Back down to the stock pilot jet, and bingo!  With the bigger
pilot jet, I could run the T-handle all the way closed, and it would still
run....as good an indication as any that it was too big.  With the bigger
pilot, the bike would surge/sputter when held steady at 4-6K RPM.  Now its
as smooth as can be.  When I compared the two pilot jets (37.5 vs 40), I
noticed that the 40 is SOOOO much bigger....seems there ought to be an
in-between size....but there aint.  We're talking pinhole size to #2
pencil-lead size difference---and the 40 ALSO has 4 additional little holes
along the side!  No wonder it made me run rich.  I talked to Thumper
Racing's tech guy, Russell, and he said they dont even run a 40 pilot in
their 435 engines w/ the Vortex!

Before I installed the Vortex airbox, I was running a top-cut stock airbox
w/ K&N filter, 135 main, JXneedle/spring,stock pilot.  It was a significant
improvement over stock and ran great.  I notice the most difference with the
Vortex in that it revs quicker/better throttle response, and is stronger on
the top end.  I'm glad I did it.

Thanks for the replacement hose Jesse...worked great!

By the way, for grins you can check out my new webpage:
http://users.ticnet.com/vfrman/start.htm
there is a link at the bottom of the page to a (way too big) picture of me &
my bike from my recent Colorado trip.  I will eventually add a page just for
the DR & the mods I've done.  Jesse & Norm, I'll put links to you guys'
sites on it.

Bryan in Dallas



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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) About air filter
Date: 25 Aug 1999 20:25:05 +0200

how many laundries does the air filter last? According to the manual, it is
necessary to wash it each 3000 km (2000 miles) or less if you circulates for
powdery areas (off-road). I have 17000 km (10600 miles) and about 6
laundries, and seemingly, the filter seems in good state... is the moment of
changing it for other or will it last more? which are the symptoms that the
air filter has ended and does it have to be replaced?... A last question.
which is the best air filter... the original Suzuki or other marks?

Thank you.


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: "Eusebio Costa" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) The Oil Question
Date: 25 Aug 1999 17:08:43 -0300

Can anyone tell me about the harm of putting too much oil in the reservoir
of the DR. The problem is, I changed the oil last week, but couldn't take
one of the nuts off, the one below the fuel tank, it is spoiled, just
removed the bottom one. The result is, the bike got less than 1,5 liter and
when I check the oil, according to the instructions in the manual, it is
more than full. Any suggestions ? Am I checking the oil wrongly or the oil
didn't go all away because of the spoiled nut ?
Thanks
Zeus


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) air filter
Date: 25 Aug 1999 15:25:15 -0700

Don't know if it is the best or not but I like my K&N because it is easily
cleaned and reoiled.

Usually I ride with several people so I get lot of dust when it is dry, in
this case I clean the filter after every ride.  If I don't encounter dust
then I wait until I do ride in the dust before changing the filter.
 Recently I have gone on three rides and still haven't cleaned the filter
because of the lack of dust on the trail.


-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Wednesday, August 25, 1999 11:25 AM

how many laundries does the air filter last? According to the manual, it is
necessary to wash it each 3000 km (2000 miles) or less if you circulates
for
powdery areas (off-road). I have 17000 km (10600 miles) and about 6
laundries, and seemingly, the filter seems in good state... is the moment
of
changing it for other or will it last more? which are the symptoms that the
air filter has ended and does it have to be replaced?... A last question.
which is the best air filter... the original Suzuki or other marks?

Thank you.


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) side panel screws
Date: 25 Aug 1999 15:19:19 -0700

A word to the wise:

In order to prevent replacing these screws all the time I recommend using
removable loc-tite on the side panel screws and the headlight shroud screws
otherwise you WILL loose them eventually.  I have lost several of each
before I started loc-titing them several years ago.

But, my Dual Star stainless rack works great for strapping down the side
panel on to after I loose the screws.

db


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: FW: (dr350) The Oil Question
Date: 25 Aug 1999 15:28:00 -0700


Also, you can remove the oil hose below the nut to drain all the oil out of
the frame reservoir.  The hose is held in place with a hose clamp.

Db
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Wednesday, August 25, 1999 1:09 PM

Can anyone tell me about the harm of putting too much oil in the reservoir
of the DR. The problem is, I changed the oil last week, but couldn't take
one of the nuts off, the one below the fuel tank, it is spoiled, just
removed the bottom one. The result is, the bike got less than 1,5 liter and
when I check the oil, according to the instructions in the manual, it is
more than full. Any suggestions ? Am I checking the oil wrongly or the oil
didn't go all away because of the spoiled nut ?
Thanks
Zeus


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) leather jacket for sale
Date: 25 Aug 1999 18:35:50 EDT

For Sale: Hein Gericke, First Gear Scout leather jacket with removable liner
that buttons in/out, antique brown, size 44, men's/women's, just cleaned, has
vents front and back and arms, many pockets.  Paid $525.00 will sell for
$300.00.

John

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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) side panel screws
Date: 26 Aug 1999 9:38:25 PDT

> A word to the wise:
>
> In order to prevent replacing these screws all the time I recommend using
> removable loc-tite on the side panel screws and the headlight shroud screws
> otherwise you WILL loose them eventually.  I have lost several of each
> before I started loc-titing them several years ago.

  I agree.  On my last dual sport, I lost three screws.  One for a
side panel, one in the front headlight plate, and one on the rear
brake light.  Instead of loc-tite, I replaced all of the screws with a
10mm hex nut type.  That way I can use a socket wrench to tighten them
properly.  Those phillip head screws aren't worth crap.  Toss 'em as
soon as possible.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) side panel screws
Date: 26 Aug 1999 10:11:12 -0700

> A word to the wise:
>
> In order to prevent replacing these screws all the time I recommend using
> removable loc-tite on the side panel screws and the headlight shroud screws
> otherwise you WILL loose them eventually.  I have lost several of each
> before I started loc-titing them several years ago.
>

And while loc-titing, don't forget the four bolts holding the front fender
on -- they always seem to go fairly easily....

Bryan

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From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) side panel screws
Date: 26 Aug 1999 10:11:12 -0700

> A word to the wise:
>
> In order to prevent replacing these screws all the time I recommend using
> removable loc-tite on the side panel screws and the headlight shroud screws
> otherwise you WILL loose them eventually.  I have lost several of each
> before I started loc-titing them several years ago.
>

And while loc-titing, don't forget the four bolts holding the front fender
on -- they always seem to go fairly easily....

Bryan

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From: "David M2 Thompson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Starting the early DRs
Date: 25 Aug 1999 13:30:39 -0400

No question, fresh fuel in the carb's float bowl is the magic elixir.  I
made a special screwdriver & installed it on the ignition key ring.  If
the bike's been sitting long enough to require the cold start choke, I
ALWAYS loosen the little screw on the side of the float bowl & drain the
fuel.  Then I switch the petcock to prime & it usually starts in a
couple of kicks.

David "RoutemeiSTer" Thompson
AMA# 504560  STOC# 840
Current STable
90 Suzuki DR350S
91 Honda ST1100
94 Honda VFR


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From: Iain Wilson <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) road tyres
Date: 26 Aug 1999 19:44:41 +0100

Hi,

I have a 99 DR 350 and would like to put some road tyres on for the
winter with good grip and reasonable life - any recommendations please?

Thanks,

Iain

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) side panel screws
Date: 26 Aug 1999 12:44:06 -0700

Good advice on replacing them with hex head - I never thought of that.

db

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, August 26, 1999 9:38 AM
Cc:    [e-mail]

> A word to the wise:
>
> In order to prevent replacing these screws all the time I recommend using
> removable loc-tite on the side panel screws and the headlight shroud screws
> otherwise you WILL loose them eventually.  I have lost several of each
> before I started loc-titing them several years ago.

  I agree.  On my last dual sport, I lost three screws.  One for a
side panel, one in the front headlight plate, and one on the rear
brake light.  Instead of loc-tite, I replaced all of the screws with a
10mm hex nut type.  That way I can use a socket wrench to tighten them
properly.  Those phillip head screws aren't worth crap.  Toss 'em as
soon as possible.

--
Scott Aldrich

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Crank case breather vent oil
Date: 26 Aug 1999 13:10:30 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a 99' SE model. The oil collector pipe under the rubber air =
intake plenum fills up with oil in less than a weeks time. As a =
temporary fix I replaced the stock two inch hose with a longer one.  I =
though that I have over filled the oil reservoir, but the tube fills up =
regardless of the oil level. On one of my friends KLR650, he had the =
same problem.  It was a result of doing to many wheelies.  Has any one =
else experienced this?

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BEEFC4.5F583F80
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 99' SE model. The oil =
collector pipe=20
under the rubber air intake plenum fills up with oil in less than a =
weeks time.=20
As a temporary fix I replaced the stock two inch hose with a longer =
one.  I=20
though that I have over filled the oil reservoir, but the tube fills up=20
regardless of the oil level. On one of my friends KLR650, he had the =
same=20
problem.  It was a result of doing to many wheelies.  Has any =
one else=20
experienced this?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Jeff Corsaro in San=20
Diego</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BEEFC4.5F583F80--


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From: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) road tyres
Date: 26 Aug 1999 17:36:05 -0400

lain:
    I am happy with the IRC GP-110 tire I am running on the rear.  I put it
on about 2000 miles ago and it has held up well.  It works better than the
stock rear both on and off the road. It's cheap too (a bit less that $50). I
will be putting a matching front on soon. Of the 2000 miles probably 1700 of
them are on the road.

Keith Browning
Pittsburgh, PA

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 2:44 PM


> Hi,
>
> I have a 99 DR 350 and would like to put some road tyres on for the
> winter with good grip and reasonable life - any recommendations please?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Iain
>
> #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
subject blank
> body message unsubscribe dr350 (or dr350-digest).


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) road tyres
Date: 26 Aug 1999 16:43:28 PDT

Agree with Keith...I've really liked the IRC GP-110s on a couple of bikes.
I thought it did much better than stock off-road, but if you ever use a
MT-21 on the rear, you'll see how much better it can be.  If you ride mostly
street though, the IRCs are great.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Keith Browning" <[e-mail]>
>To: "dr350 suzuki" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: (dr350) road tyres
>Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 17:36:05 -0400
>
>lain:
>     I am happy with the IRC GP-110 tire I am running on the rear.  I put
>it
>on about 2000 miles ago and it has held up well.  It works better than the
>stock rear both on and off the road. It's cheap too (a bit less that $50).
>I
>will be putting a matching front on soon. Of the 2000 miles probably 1700
>of
>them are on the road.
>
>Keith Browning
>Pittsburgh, PA
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Iain Wilson <[e-mail]>
>To: dr350 suzuki <[e-mail]>
>Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 2:44 PM
>Subject: (dr350) road tyres
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a 99 DR 350 and would like to put some road tyres on for the
> > winter with good grip and reasonable life - any recommendations please?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Iain
> >
> > #Visit dr350 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
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>
>
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>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) air filter
Date: 26 Aug 1999 19:48:16 EDT

Doug,

is your Dualstar rack on the dirt-model or street DR?  I would love a rear
rack for my dirt DR but the Dualstar sure is pricey..

Guy

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) WB440
Date: 26 Aug 1999 19:54:51 -0700

Eric,

How is the White Brother's 440cc kit working out?  Did you have them
install it?  If not, what had to be done to the engine?

Dave
.............................
Eric Martin Seitz wrote:
>
> I spend lots of quality time starting my beast! (WB 440 kit) :-)
>
> Eric
>

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) air filter
Date: 26 Aug 1999 16:53:02 PDT

I got the Suzuki rack for $47 from local dealer...its the larger of the two
they make, and the less expen$ive one.  You got to bend/torque it a bit to
get it to mount up right, but it looks good and is very solid.
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>From: [e-mail]
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) air filter
>Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 19:48:16 EDT
>
>Doug,
>
>is your Dualstar rack on the dirt-model or street DR?  I would love a rear
>rack for my dirt DR but the Dualstar sure is pricey..
>
>Guy
>
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>#Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
>Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
>subject blank
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_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:    "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 Rack
Date: 26 Aug 1999 18:02:49 -0700

Talk to Arne Larsen at Mac-D.  He should be able to build you a reasonably
priced rear rack built to your specs.

[e-mail]

www.angelfire.com/bc/macd    MAC-D Homepage

Tell him crazy Vik sent you..lol...seriously he does to notch work at
Wal-mart prices.

If I ever find a DR350 or XR400 I will have him make me an integrated rear
rack/side protectors so I can use soft luggage.  I should be picking up my
integrated pannier rack/rear luggage rack for my KLR650 this weekend.  I'll
call it my expedition system..=)

Cheers,

Vik


-----Original Message-----


>Doug,
>
>is your Dualstar rack on the dirt-model or street DR?  I would love a rear
>rack for my dirt DR but the Dualstar sure is pricey..
>
>Guy
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) road tyres
Date: 26 Aug 1999 22:20:18 EDT

In a message dated 08/26/1999 11:49:40 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Hi,

 I have a 99 DR 350 and would like to put some road tyres on for the
 winter with good grip and reasonable life - any recommendations please?

 Thanks,

 Iain >>

I've got a '93 that I use as a sportbike. I run a Metzeler ME33 90/90H21 on
the front and a ME55 120/90V18 on the rear. These give more grip than the
chassis (especially the front fork) can hope handle, so you'll run out of
other things before you need more grip. There is a smaller 80/90H21 front
available that you might consider that might give a better profile than the
90/90H21, but either will work good.

I've done a track day at Willow Springs with this set-up and it worked very
well. As for durability, the bike's light weight makes tire wear almost a
non-issue. While my friends on real sportbikes shread their tires after a few
months of hard use, mine just keep going with no appreciable wear, and I'm
going just as fast. Actually I have to corner harder than they do to make up
for lack of steam on straightaways. Be prepared for much lighter steering at
first compared to knobbies, but you get used to it after a few rides.

later,

Brian

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) NDR recent chevrolet truck AD about motorcycling
Date: 26 Aug 1999 23:14:53 -0700

Please check this website: http://www.nmaoffroad.org/news.stm scroll down
to the part about the Chevy truck ad, then read the response from Tory
Briggs, President of the NMA.  I also suggest sending an e-mail similar to
the one Tory sent to [e-mail]

Please forward this to your friends, etc that are motorcycle enthusiasts.

Doug


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From: "Rod K" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Hi everyone - newbie break-in question.
Date: 27 Aug 1999 01:38:19 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi everyone,
    I'm new to this list and to the world of the DR350.  My DR is a 1998 =
but was brand new when I bought it last week.  I just love the thing!  =
Lots of logging roads around here that I didn't even know existed until =
this week.
    Here's my question:  In the manual, they tell you to stay below =
5000rpm for 500 miles (800km); below 6000rpm up to 1000 miles (1600km).  =
When I bought the bike, the guys at the store told me that I was to =
forget that stuff, and keep it below 5500rpm for the first 120 miles =
(200km), then go up 1000 rpm every 120 miles. (6500 after 240 miles, =
7500 after 360 miles etc....)  They told me that break in is more =
effective this way.
    What is the deal here?  I know the manual is full of overblown =
statements like "don't touch gasoline, it could give you cancer" sort of =
warnings which are more or less overblown.  Is it the same story with =
the break in limits?  I don't want to damage my bike, so I have kept it =
below 5500rpm for the first 350 miles, but today I started to go up to =
6500 rmp for short pulls. =20
   Any information on this would be GREATLY appreciated,

Thanks,

Rod =20

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>    I'm new to this list =
and to the=20
world of the DR350.  My DR is a 1998 but was brand new when I =
bought it=20
last week.  I just love the thing!  Lots of logging roads =
around here=20
that I didn't even know existed until this week.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>    Here's my =
question:  In the=20
manual, they tell you to stay below 5000rpm for 500 miles (800km); below =
6000rpm=20
up to 1000 miles (1600km).  When I bought the bike, the guys at the =
store=20
told me that I was to forget that stuff, and keep it below 5500rpm for =
the first=20
120 miles (200km), then go up 1000 rpm every 120 miles. (6500 after 240 =
miles,=20
7500 after 360 miles etc....)  They told me that break in is more =
effective=20
this way.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>    What is the deal =
here?  I=20
know the manual is full of overblown statements like "don't =
touch=20
gasoline, it could give you cancer" sort of warnings which are more =
or less=20
overblown.  Is it the same story with the break in =
limits? =20
I don't want to damage my bike, so I have kept it below =
5500rpm for=20
the first 350 miles, but today I started to go up to 6500 rmp for =
short=20
pulls.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>   Any information on =
this would=20
be GREATLY appreciated,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rod  </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BEF02C.D72B02A0--


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Road Tyres
Date: 27 Aug 1999 04:39:59 EDT

I use Pirreli MT60 on my road wheels and they provide plenty of knee down
action

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Hi everyone - newbie break-in question.
Date: 27 Aug 1999 06:19:56 PDT

Ahh yes---I'm surprised it took so long for this thread to appear!  Its very
common on the other lists, and a source of intense debate for some :)

Actually Rod, you cant hurt anything if you follow the manual to the letter.
  But then again, you probably wont hurt anything if you cut the mileage
limits in half either!  I would suggest you take it real easy (under 5Krpm)
for the first 100 miles, THEN CHANGE THE OIL (AND FILTER) WITH GOOD OLD
REGULAR DINO OIL.  Then the step increases your shop recommended sound good.
  An extra oil & filter change prior to 500 miles would give you a little
extra insurance.  I broke in 2 new sportbikes like that that I ended up
riding long & hard w/ no problems or excess oil use.

Enjoy the bike!
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Rod K" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Rod K" <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Hi everyone - newbie break-in question.
>Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 01:38:19 -0700
>
>Hi everyone,
>     I'm new to this list and to the world of the DR350.  My DR is a 1998
>but was brand new when I bought it last week.  I just love the thing!  Lots
>of logging roads around here that I didn't even know existed until this
>week.
>     Here's my question:  In the manual, they tell you to stay below
>5000rpm for 500 miles (800km); below 6000rpm up to 1000 miles (1600km).
>When I bought the bike, the guys at the store told me that I was to forget
>that stuff, and keep it below 5500rpm for the first 120 miles (200km), then
>go up 1000 rpm every 120 miles. (6500 after 240 miles, 7500 after 360 miles
>etc....)  They told me that break in is more effective this way.
>     What is the deal here?  I know the manual is full of overblown
>statements like "don't touch gasoline, it could give you cancer" sort of
>warnings which are more or less overblown.  Is it the same story with the
>break in limits?  I don't want to damage my bike, so I have kept it below
>5500rpm for the first 350 miles, but today I started to go up to 6500 rmp
>for short pulls.
>    Any information on this would be GREATLY appreciated,
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rod


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

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From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) fork guards
Date: 27 Aug 1999 09:34:43 -0500

I've got a 99 DR350 dirt only and I just ordered some fork guards and a
front disc guard.  They are made by Maier, on the package they came in it
says for use on a DR350 up to 1997.  Is there a big difference in the forks
in those two years?  The guards they sent me seem like they are too long.  I
can't say for sure because my front wheel is currently off the bike because
I am waiting for my new front rotor.  I'm just mainly wanting know if I
should ship these back to Dennis Kirk or not.

Chris

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Passenger pegs
Date: 27 Aug 1999 11:46:46 EDT

Does anyboby out there want to get rid of their DR passenger pegs and
bracketry??

Guy

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From: Mick Monroe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) User profile
Date: 27 Aug 1999 09:23:30 -0700

Hi List,

Is there a user profile associated with this list that gives info about
the persons location, riding experience, type of rides desired, etc so
we could hook-up with other riders in our area?

Mick.

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (no subject)
Date: 27 Aug 1999 12:16:19 EDT

unsubscribe

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (no subject)
Date: 27 Aug 1999 12:16:19 EDT

unsubscribe

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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 27 Aug 1999 09:29:56 -0700

Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis plastic from for our DR's?


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) User profile
Date: 27 Aug 1999 09:32:12 -0700

There isn't but I think this would be a good service to have available.

What do you think Kurt?  Maybe a list posted on a web page somewhere, or something else may work??

Doug

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, August 27, 1999 9:24 AM

Hi List,

Is there a user profile associated with this list that gives info about
the persons location, riding experience, type of rides desired, etc so
we could hook-up with other riders in our area?

Mick.

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From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 27 Aug 1999 11:39:39 -0500

According to my Acerbis catalog they don't make any plastic specifically for
the DR350. However, Maier http://www.maier-mfg.com/ seems to be coming out
with a lot of plastic for the DR.

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Doug Bragg
> Sent: Friday, August 27, 1999 11:30 AM
> To: 'DR350 list'
> Subject: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
>
>
> Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis
> plastic from for our DR's?
>
>
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> Leave subject blank
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>


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From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork guards
Date: 27 Aug 1999 10:04:36 PDT

> I've got a 99 DR350 dirt only and I just ordered some fork guards and a
> front disc guard.  They are made by Maier, on the package they came in it
> says for use on a DR350 up to 1997.  Is there a big difference in the forks
> in those two years?  The guards they sent me seem like they are too long.  I
> can't say for sure because my front wheel is currently off the bike because
> I am waiting for my new front rotor.  I'm just mainly wanting know if I
> should ship these back to Dennis Kirk or not.

  You got caught by the same snafu that a lot of us fell into.  I did
the same thing, brought the guards back to where I bought them from
and ordered the acerbis instead.  It turned out the acerbis product
was just as bad.  What happened was that in '98 the forks were changed
and the disc guard wasn't modified to fit.  What was worse was that
Chapparell and Dennis Kirk listed them as fitting @!@!##@!

  AFAIK no one makes a product that works.  Your only solution is to
go with one of the older models and modify it to fit.  I called
acerbis and they said that they had no plans to upgrade their product
in the near future.

  If anyone knows of fork/disc guards that were made for and will fit
the '98 and on DR350SE, I'd like to hear about it.  I'm still holding
out.

--
Scott Aldrich

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) User profile
Date: 27 Aug 1999 11:18:40 -0600

.
>
>What do you think Kurt?  Maybe a list posted on a web page somewhere, or something
else may work??
>
>Doug


well, everyone on the list could subscribe to DSN, submit great articles on the DR
and then be part of the directory that gets sent out yearly?

Kurt


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) User profile
Date: 27 Aug 1999 14:16:22 -0600

Dual Sport News...here is the webpage:

www.dualsport.org


-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>"Kurt Simpson" said:
>>
>>well, everyone on the list could subscribe to DSN,
>
>What's DSN?
>--
>Tom Buskey
>Common Sense Isn't
>
>
>
>


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) User profile
Date: 27 Aug 1999 13:35:20 -0700

I've been meaning to subscribe for a while but my list of reasons (excuses)
why I haven't could go on all day - it all boils down to laziness I guess.

I'm going to subscribe tonight.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, August 27, 1999 10:19 AM

.
>
>What do you think Kurt?  Maybe a list posted on a web page somewhere, or
something
else may work??
>
>Doug


well, everyone on the list could subscribe to DSN, submit great articles on
the DR
and then be part of the directory that gets sent out yearly?

Kurt


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Story And Pics Posted
Date: 27 Aug 1999 16:44:12 -0400

Attention all dual sporters! The pictures and story from the Devil's Creek
Dual Sport Ride in Brooksville, Florida has been posted to the WDSRC
website! It's located in the 1999 Rides section.

Check out Raul Pla and the BMW GS, Patrice Robinet and the mighty KLR, See
What newbie Kim Ross has to say about his New DR350, and for all you
Floridians and Southerners, come see what you're missing!

We had folks from near and far at the event: Pensicola to Miami,
Jacksonville to Sarasota, and all points in between!

Bikes ranged from DR200 and XT225's all the way up to BMW GS Series, with
numerous Hondas, Suzukis, Kawasakis, Husabergs, KTMs, and Yamaha's off all
displacement classes and models!

While you're there download an entry for the upcoming Amsterdam Dual Sport
Ride in Amsterdam Georgia, just south of Bainbridge GA and just North Of
Tallahassee, FL. It's on virgin riding land and challenging to difficult.
It'll be a good one!

So if you live in the South, and particularly in Florida, come see what your
missing. Come visit the WDSRC website. Enjoy the ride....

Robert Frey
Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights, Be Responsible, Be Quiet"


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Devil's Creek II
Date: 27 Aug 1999 17:17:16 -0400

Okay, so sometimes I'm absent minded :-)

here's the web address of the WDSRC:

http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245


Robert Frey
WDSRC
"Too Many Bumps On The Head"


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From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 27 Aug 1999 17:17:37 -0700

MXsouth.com, Jeff Hirshberg is great!!!!!!!!!!!

-----Original Message-----


>Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis plastic
from for our DR's?
>
>
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subject blank
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>


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From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork guards
Date: 27 Aug 1999 22:52:11 -0700

Chris:

I don't know if they are going to bolt on or not, but be glad, very glad you
have the newer fork design.  I am currently searching ways to remove the
plow from the from of my '96.

Strick
-----Original Message-----


>I've got a 99 DR350 dirt only and I just ordered some fork guards and a
>front disc guard.  They are made by Maier, on the package they came in it
>says for use on a DR350 up to 1997.  Is there a big difference in the forks
>in those two years?  The guards they sent me seem like they are too long.
I
>can't say for sure because my front wheel is currently off the bike because
>I am waiting for my new front rotor.  I'm just mainly wanting know if I
>should ship these back to Dennis Kirk or not.
>
>Chris
>
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subject blank
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>


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) User profile
Date: 28 Aug 1999 08:27:03 -0700

Mick,

I'm for it.  What do the rest of you think?

Dave
(2) 1990 DR350's
...........................
Mick Monroe wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> Is there a user profile associated with this list that gives info about
> the persons location, riding experience, type of rides desired, etc so
> we could hook-up with other riders in our area?
>
> Mick.

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From: [e-mail] (John)
Subject: (dr350) Exhaust mod
Date: 28 Aug 1999 22:30:05 -0400 (EDT)

Someone once mentioned of a guy who can modify stock exhuast muffler to
get better flow and not be super loud.Anyone? Thanks


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From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhaust mod
Date: 28 Aug 1999 20:34:40 -0700

John:

I have a '96 dr350SE.  I also have a good friend who owns a muffler shop,
and nothin' doin'!  What I mean is we cut the muffler in two places to try
to accomplish what you want (what I wanted).  If you get too far into the
exhaust from the muffler end you will be effecting the spark arrestor (maybe
negatively)_.  If you just deal with the end piece for mods, you will make
it much louder.

I went out and bought (maybe) the most expensive exhaust you can buy, BIG
GUN.  There propaganda states 8hp gain and 12 lb. savings in weight.  The
weight savings is true I weighed the two (stock vs. BIG GUN). I don't have
access to a dyno, but let me put it this way.  First the front wheel comes
off the ground under hard acceleration without me giving it any
assistance,during fisrst to second gear shifts, and that was with a 41 tooth
rear sprocket!  Second, a friend of mine who has a '99 KTM 300EX, and a '98
600 Husaberg (and plenty of money), had first told me when I bought this
bike for dual sport rides ( I already have a '90 RM250), it would last me
one year and I would be tired of it; now with the BIG GUN he says it will
last me 10Years!

You must buy the entire system, not just the tailpipe, but also the head
pipe.  It is extremely loud, but BIG GUN does sell a much quieter spark
arrestor/muffler setup for the DR.

E-mail Jeff Hirshberg at [e-mail] for more information on how to
order.  His mailorder website is www.mxsouth.com.

Strick
-----Original Message-----


Someone once mentioned of a guy who can modify stock exhuast muffler to
get better flow and not be super loud.Anyone? Thanks


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From: "Strick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Exhaust mod
Date: 28 Aug 1999 20:34:40 -0700

John:

I have a '96 dr350SE.  I also have a good friend who owns a muffler shop,
and nothin' doin'!  What I mean is we cut the muffler in two places to try
to accomplish what you want (what I wanted).  If you get too far into the
exhaust from the muffler end you will be effecting the spark arrestor (maybe
negatively)_.  If you just deal with the end piece for mods, you will make
it much louder.

I went out and bought (maybe) the most expensive exhaust you can buy, BIG
GUN.  There propaganda states 8hp gain and 12 lb. savings in weight.  The
weight savings is true I weighed the two (stock vs. BIG GUN). I don't have
access to a dyno, but let me put it this way.  First the front wheel comes
off the ground under hard acceleration without me giving it any
assistance,during fisrst to second gear shifts, and that was with a 41 tooth
rear sprocket!  Second, a friend of mine who has a '99 KTM 300EX, and a '98
600 Husaberg (and plenty of money), had first told me when I bought this
bike for dual sport rides ( I already have a '90 RM250), it would last me
one year and I would be tired of it; now with the BIG GUN he says it will
last me 10Years!

You must buy the entire system, not just the tailpipe, but also the head
pipe.  It is extremely loud, but BIG GUN does sell a much quieter spark
arrestor/muffler setup for the DR.

E-mail Jeff Hirshberg at [e-mail] for more information on how to
order.  His mailorder website is www.mxsouth.com.

Strick
-----Original Message-----


Someone once mentioned of a guy who can modify stock exhuast muffler to
get better flow and not be super loud.Anyone? Thanks


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From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) South carolina
Date: 28 Aug 1999 23:51:45 -0400

Check Out the SCORE (south carolina Off-Road Enthusiasts) Website at
http://www.travel.to/score


Robert
WDSRC



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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) This is a real adventure with a DR
Date: 29 Aug 1999 15:04:15 +0200

http://www.northernwalkers.com/southamerica/index.htm

Congratulations for Hiroyuki Nagahara  :)

(but it=B4s in japanese :( ... well, but I look the pics, very good pics)

Bye

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Suzuki Goose
Date: 29 Aug 1999 15:00:23 +0200


Hello. Do you know that this bike (goose 350) uses the DR350 engine?
Well, it use a 40 mm carburetor and some things...
This is the Suzuki goose-dr350 http://www.jsb.co.jp/suzuki/catalog99/Goose/
look this web... here there are power graphics (engine power and torque)
http://www.jsb.co.jp/suzuki/catalog99/Goose/spec.html

Bye.

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The age old question! (Starting the beast!)
Date: 29 Aug 1999 21:35:36 EDT

Don't let the "fear of starting" an older DR shy you away from purchasing a
good condition machine.

I've got a pre ' 94 DR (dirt only model) and starting it is a challenge
sometimes (I would not call it an endearing trait). Electric start dirt bikes
are for those orthopedically challenged individuals who want all the comforts
of a street bike for the dirt.

I find my DR starts on the first or second kick when cold (enrichment
circiuit engaged of course). When it's hot and I shut it down I always turn
off the fuel petcock; when starting from a hot shutdown, I'll hold the C/R
open for about 6 or 7 kicks then set it for a start and 90% of the time
she'll fire off. The worst situation is for a spill, I'll at least double the
number of kicks with the C/R held in before attempting a start and even that
does not always do the trick; the engine carb fouls dumping a load of gas
into the cylinder and you just gotta purge the excess fuel.

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) The Oil Question
Date: 29 Aug 1999 21:44:13 EDT

About the only thing I can think might cause you some trouble with
overfilling the oil tank is possible blowing of oil past the oil cap as the
oil expands when warm. Get yourself a turkey baster and maybe a legnth of
tubing and just draw off the excess oil.

mike
dr350

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From: "molly thomas" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) 96 dr 350 jetting
Date: 30 Aug 1999 00:08:07 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF27B.BCB79680
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

any suggestions would be help full on jetting for my 96 dr350 dirt =
version.
current mods as follows:   opened up air box,   cobra exhaust,  jetting =
is  130 main
40 pilot  stock air filter.   it seems to be running lean very hot lack =
of get up and go the plug looks grey ok to what the book tells you i =
would appreciate any suggestion on jetting :  fellow drs                 =
 jt 96 dr350

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF27B.BCB79680
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>any suggestions would be help full on jetting for my =
96 dr350=20
dirt version.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>current mods as follows:   opened up air=20
box,   cobra exhaust,  jetting is  130 =
main</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>40 pilot  stock air filter.   it =
seems to be=20
running lean very hot lack of get up and go the plug looks grey ok to =
what the=20
book tells you i would appreciate any suggestion on jetting :  =
fellow=20
drs           &nbs=
p;     =20
jt 96 dr350</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEF27B.BCB79680--


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: regards from Guuam
Date: 30 Aug 1999 07:17:16 -0600


-----Original Message-----


>Dear Kurt,
>   This message may come as a surprise to you - I've actually had your
>address in my desk drawer for some time and the tornado in downtown Salt
>Lake City recently reminded me of it again.  I think it must have been Jim
>Olsen who told me some years ago on the phone that you had been working
>with the Catholic Foundation in Utah.  For some reason I was somewhat
>surprised to hear this although we all of course undergo many changes as
>time goes on.
>    Actually I was in Green Bay a few years ago while I was working on my
>doctorate at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.  I had my wife
>Shanti with me who I married in Fiji while I was still a Peace Corps
>volunteer in the mid-1980's and our daughter Neelam.  We now also have a 2
>and a half year old son - both were adopted from India.  We made a
>practice of driving to different parts of Wisconsin from time to time and
>when I was in Green Bay, I had wanted to meet Jim without interupting his
>family life to apologize for my behavior way back in the 1970's.  I was a
>pretty pained and lost soul back then and wasn't particularly expecting a
>renewal of friendship but it would have made me feel alittle better about
>it.  But he apparently choose not to pursue that - which is of course his
>right.  I don't loose any sleep over that sliver of a past although it
>still sometimes gives me a little pang when I think of it.  I'm sure I'm
>not the first person to wish I could relive certain periods of my past in
>the context of what I am and know now about life.  But one must of course
>move forward.
>    As for myself, I've been working on the island of Guam since 1987 -
>interrupted from 1994 to 1997 when we lived in Madison.  (I received my
>doctorate in late 1997.)  We go back to Fiji about every year via Air
>Nauru whose one or two planes passes through Guam once a week.  Nauru is a
>tiny five square mile island almost right on the equator and in the middle
>of nowhere which has earned its fortune through phosphate deposits on the
>island.  This last time I dropped my family off in Fiji and then
>continued on to Sydney where I attended and presented a paper at the
>Pacific Science Congress.  I then went back to Fiji for a few weeks to
>be at Shanti's parent's 50th anniversary, make my annual trip to the
>University of the South Pacific where I taught for a couple of years and
>stay with various Indian relatives.  Most of my relatives are hindu in
>Fiji and we make efforts to expose our daughter to that religion, culture,
>and language.  And yet Neelam attends a Catholic school on Guam.  I think
>it's good for her to get these multicultural experiences.  As for
>religion, I've pretty come to the conclusion that the fateful context of
>one's birth has a great deal to do with what we become exposed to and what
>we accept.  I guess it would be difficult for most people to understand
>that unless they themselves have been immersed in a non-western
>environment for an extended period of time.
>    Anyway, I hope things have gone well with you these past 20 or so
>years and I wish you the best for the future.  regards, Nick ("boomer")
>
>   ========================================================================
>   |           |
>   | Nicholas J. Goetzfridt, Ph.D     | Email  [e-mail]
>   | University of Guam               | Voice:671-735-2300
>   | Learning Resources               | FAX:  [phone]
>   | University of Guam               | Coordinates: 13.5N , 144.7E       |
>   | UOG Station                      | Time   : GMT+10    EST+15         |
>   | Mangilao, Guam USA 96923                                             |
>   ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
>


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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 30 Aug 1999 09:04:47 -0700

Brian Luttman wrote:
>
> According to my Acerbis catalog they don't make any plastic specifically for
> the DR350. However, Maier http://www.maier-mfg.com/ seems to be coming out
> with a lot of plastic for the DR.
>
> Brian Luttman
> 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
> Arlington, Texas
> [e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [e-mail]
> > [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Doug Bragg
> > Sent: Friday, August 27, 1999 11:30 AM
> > To: 'DR350 list'
> > Subject: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis
> > plastic from for our DR's?
> >
> >
> > #Visit dr350 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
> > Leave subject blank
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> >
>
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Acerbis does make a tank for the DR350. Their listing shows
"DR250-300. Go figure.
    Wayne Marsula'
    Escondido, CA

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From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 30 Aug 1999 11:10:54 -0500

That's true, I guess I forgot about the gas tank.  I was thinking more along
the lines of fenders and side panels.  After all my tank is metal :-)

Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Wayne Marsula'
> Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 11:05 AM
> To: Brian Luttman
> Cc: Doug Bragg; 'DR350 list'
> Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
>
>
> Brian Luttman wrote:
> >
> > According to my Acerbis catalog they don't make any plastic
> specifically for
> > the DR350. However, Maier http://www.maier-mfg.com/ seems to be
> coming out
> > with a lot of plastic for the DR.
> >
> > Brian Luttman
> > 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
> > Arlington, Texas
> > [e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [e-mail]
> > > [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Doug Bragg
> > > Sent: Friday, August 27, 1999 11:30 AM
> > > To: 'DR350 list'
> > > Subject: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
> > >
> > >
> > > Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis
> > > plastic from for our DR's?
> > >
> > >
> > > #Visit dr350 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
> > #Subscribe to Dual Sport News...write to [e-mail] for info.
> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail].
> > Leave subject blank
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> >
>
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subject blank
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Acerbis does make a tank for the DR350. Their listing shows
"DR250-300. Go figure.
    Wayne Marsula'
    Escondido, CA

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From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) 96 dr 350 jetting
Date: 30 Aug 1999 09:35:44 -0700



> molly thomas wrote:
>
> any suggestions would be help full on jetting for my 96 dr350 dirt
> version.
> current mods as follows:   opened up air box,   cobra exhaust,  jetting
> is  130 main
> 40 pilot  stock air filter.   it seems to be running lean very hot lack of
> get up and go the plug looks grey ok to what the book tells you i would
> appreciate any suggestion on jetting :  fellow drs                  jt 96
> dr350

I'm currently running this setup:

'96 DR441 (White Brother's modification)
HiPo Suzuki cam
Opened-up airbox
FMF Megamax exhaust with 9 disks plus spacers
Ground away the bead on the header pipe
50% race gas (mostly to run a bit cooler)
Elevation is between sea level and 6000'

With that, I'm running the stock 37.5 idle jet and a 137.5 main.  The needle
is down one clip position from the middle.

Yesterday we were riding between about 3000' and 5000' -- I could tell that
it was a bit rich at the higher elevations.  However, down around
3000-3500', everything seemed just about right.  The T-handle idle screw
helps -- I had that cranked down to about 1.25 turns at the higher
elevations, and opened up to about 2.25 at the lower spots.

I could probably drop down to a 135 main for 4000-6000' and be a bit better
off.

It sounds like you could be running rich at idle and lean when the throttle
is opened up.  When you do the plug reads, are you killing the engine as the
throttle is opened up, or does it idle for a few seconds first?  As you may
know, you need to hit the kill button after running the bike for a few
seconds at the throttle position you're trying to adjust.

I hope this helps,
Bryan

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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Anyone in Dallas area up for an Arkansas trip?
Date: 31 Aug 1999 05:17:24 PDT

David, Brian, anyone else near Dallas/Ft.Worth area--

I'm gonna put my DR in my 5X8 trailer & do an overnighter in Mena, AR. some
time after it gets cool (late Sept/early Oct?).  If anyone wants to come
along, I'll have room for another bike or two.  I know a nice clean $20
motel in Mena that makes a great base to explore from.  Ouachita & Ozark
mountains are great fun!

If interested, let me know-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

______________________________________________________
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From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
Date: 31 Aug 1999 06:48:17 -0700

Brian Luttman wrote:
>
> That's true, I guess I forgot about the gas tank.  I was thinking more along
> the lines of fenders and side panels.  After all my tank is metal :-)
>
> Brian Luttman
> 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
> Arlington, Texas
> [e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [e-mail]
> > [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Wayne Marsula'
> > Sent: Monday, August 30, 1999 11:05 AM
> > To: Brian Luttman
> > Cc: Doug Bragg; 'DR350 list'
> > Subject: Re: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
> >
> >
> > Brian Luttman wrote:
> > >
> > > According to my Acerbis catalog they don't make any plastic
> > specifically for
> > > the DR350. However, Maier http://www.maier-mfg.com/ seems to be
> > coming out
> > > with a lot of plastic for the DR.
> > >
> > > Brian Luttman
> > > 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2000)
> > > Arlington, Texas
> > > [e-mail] <mailto:[e-mail]>
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: [e-mail]
> > > > [mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Doug Bragg
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 27, 1999 11:30 AM
> > > > To: 'DR350 list'
> > > > Subject: (dr350) Acerbis plastic
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know of any mail order houses that we can get Acerbis
> > > > plastic from for our DR's?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > #Visit dr350 archives at
> http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
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> > >
> >
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> > Unsubscribe by sending message to [e-mail]. Leave
> subject blank
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>
> Acerbis does make a tank for the DR350. Their listing shows
> "DR250-300. Go figure.
>         Wayne Marsula'
>         Escondido, CA
>
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Acerbis also has fenders that are pretty nice. Sidepanels?
Guess not.
Wayne

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From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Columbus, Ohio
Date: 31 Aug 1999 11:08:35 -0400 (EDT)

Any riders in the COLUMBUS, OHIO area?

Kevin 98 DR350


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From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GPS's
Date: 31 Aug 1999 07:57:05 -0700

I'd like one to be able to plot waypoints on a computerized map, so I can
tell where on earth I've been (literally).  Any suggestions on software or
mapping programs that can do this?  This would need to be maps of the
backcountry such as trails and dirt roads.  Many of the paper maps I use
don't show trails that I know exist because I've ridden them.  A good
computerized map would allow me to see where these trails exist after I
download the route from the GPS to the PC after I've ridden a given route
and saved the route in the GPS.

I've read that the Garmin GPS III+ is pretty much the way to go.  Any
comments would be greatly appreciated.

Doug
94 DR-350 SE


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From: "Mark Tynan" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Saddlemen
Date: 31 Aug 1999 11:19:38 -0700

Does anybody know if travelcade (saddlemen) has a new phone number?  I=27m =
unable to get through to them


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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Saddlemen
Date: 31 Aug 1999 11:52:57 PDT

Dont bother!  I had a real hassel with them.....a 6 week delay in delivering
their "Dual Sport Gel" seat for the DR.  In the interim, I found that Suzuki
sells the same seat for $75....local dealer got it for me in a week.
Travelcade was going to charge me $157 for just the assembled foam/gel/skin
cover, which I would then have had to mount to my stock base pan.  The Suzi
seat comes complete w/ basepan...you just have to trasfer the little metal
brackets & a few rubber pads.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Mark Tynan" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Mark Tynan" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr350) Saddlemen
>Date: Tue, 31 Aug 1999 11:19:38 -0700
>
>Does anybody know if travelcade (saddlemen) has a new phone number?  I'm
>unable to get through to them
>
>
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>subject blank
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______________________________________________________
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From: Jonathan Moon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) New models
Date: 31 Aug 1999 14:35:55 -0700 (PDT)


When is Suzuki supposed to come out with the new DR350 (400?)?

Anybody have an idea?

Also, how does a DR350 compare to a Honda XR400 in off-road worthiness?

Thanks from a newbie
Jon
__________________________________________________
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From:    "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) New models
Date: 31 Aug 1999 15:34:32 -0700

The new models are supposed to show up in Canada after Feb '00.

Cheers,


Vik

-----Original Message-----


>
>When is Suzuki supposed to come out with the new DR350 (400?)?
>
>Anybody have an idea?
>
>Also, how does a DR350 compare to a Honda XR400 in off-road worthiness?
>
>Thanks from a newbie
>Jon
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
>
>
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