ftp.xmission.com/2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar/ftp.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/dr350.199904

Internet Message Format | 1999-04-30 | 456KB

From: Darren Blin <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 FAQ?
Date: 01 Apr 1999 09:33:35 -0500

Hi
I'm new here. Is there a FAQ for this mailing list by any chance?
Thanks
-Darren Blin




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From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Yamaha to roll out TT850 (very long)
Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:29:12 -0700

It looks like there is going to be a horse race between Yamaha and BMW to
see who can roll out their big trailies first. This report confirmed by
Yamaha Motor Corp USA's, Jeff Malden.  The TT850 was presented to Yamaha
executives yesterday.

Gino Pokluda, editor, Dual Sport News

>>Yamaha has announced that it will return to the world of big dual sports
with an early release model of the TT850 Gila (pronounced HE-la) named after
the vast National Forest and wilderness area in southern New Mexico along
the Arizona border.  "Before we unveil this milestone dual sport," explained
Jeff Malden, executive director US marketing for Yamaha Motor Corp, "you
would be well advised to forget everything you've ever learned about dual
sports before you see the  Gila."  Good advice, because the TT850 is
definitely not like any dual sport you've ever seen.

For starters, the TT850 Gila has more high tech components and computer
driven functions than the space shuttle. The big news is the 850cc parallel
twin, which despite early speculation, is not related in any way to the
TDM850 engine. "The only thing the two engines share are displacement
numbers," claims Malden.  The new 12 valve TT850 twin is amazing in many
respects, most notably its lack of a conventional valve train.  The TT850
does not have a camshaft, cam chain or any of the other bits and pieces that
are needed to operate valves.  The 850 instead uses 12 (6 per cylinder)
computer driven solenoids to lift the valves which are closed by a spring.
Yamaha claims a weight savings of almost 20 pounds in the engine alone and
maintenance is dramatically reduced.  These valves never need adjustment and
with the Yamaha supported software, can be adjusted for different profiles
depending on riding conditions.  What happens if a number of solenoids go
bad?  First, if a solenoid fails, the valve will close.  Second, the TT850
can run quite well on two valves per cylinder despite their small size.  The
onboard controller will go into "default mode" and operate the remaining
operational valves to accommodate the disabled valves.  Solenoid failure is
unlikely however.  "These solenoids have been operated continuously for
weeks at a time in conditions that would kill the rider.  So we think a
solenoid failure will be rare," explained Malden.

The TT850 is also fuel injected.  The same controller that operates the
valves controls the fuel injection system and emissions.  Two 44mm throttle
bodies feed the hungry twin, which, via a software program, can be
configured for performance or economy without ever touching a screwdriver or
wrench.  All of this is done via what Yamaha calls the Engine Control
Processor, or ECP.  The ECP resides in a well protected compartment, molded
into the tank of the  Gila.  Unlock the compartment and the hatch folds out
to reveal a fair sized LCD touch screen.  A small port is there that allows
you to attach any IBM compatible PC running Windows 98 or NT to the bike.
You can custom tune the bike and download up to 50 engine profiles into the
bike which are stored on a 10 gigabyte hard drive.  On the road, you can
bring up the Select Profile Menu on the onboard screen and select which
engine profile you want to run, although Yamaha strongly suggests this be
done while stopped on the side of the road.  Press the Apply button and the
profile immediately takes affect.  Should the computer fail, a back chip
located in the different location with a default profile will supply vital
engine control automatically and allow you to ride the bike indefinitely
with factory valve and injection settings.  To give you an idea of the range
of performance the TT850 engine can attain with the ECP system, the engine
can be tuned via software to deliver 109 horse power and 76 ft/lbs. of
torque to 86 horsepower and 95 ft/lbs. of torque.  It can be configured to
achieve up to 74 mpg and as low as 33 mpg in its high performance mode.

Having all of the information of the TT850 thrown at you is like trying to
drink from a fire hydrant and Yamaha admits that buyer may have to attend a
tuning course to get the full benefit of the ECP.  But it doesn't stop
there, as the balance of the bike is just as radical.  The  gets a revised
version of the "Omega" frame first used on the GTS1000.  The frame is
composed of two large side plates that bolt the side of the engine and serve
as the mounting point for the suspension and sub frame.  Both parts of the
Omega frame are used as air boxes, grabbing air via two louvered scoops and
ramming it into the throttle bodies.

Also borrowing from the GTS1000, the  Gila uses a highly modified RADD
derived front.  The  Gila's "high approach" front arm is made from tubular
steel and is linked to allow a very tight turning radius.  It has a multi
adjustable front shock and 340mm full floating rotor with a six-piston
caliper for confident braking.  The rear end also features a hollow single
sided swing-arm from cast aluminum.  Not too unusual, you say?  How about
the fact that the non-o-ring final drive chain runs inside the swing arm in
an oil bath and the swing arm pivot is also the counter shaft so you never
have to guess about chain tension.  Chain maintenance is via an access panel
that runs the length of the swing-arm.  As a matter of fact, Yamaha claims
that the aluminum sprockets and #520 chain will not need replacement until
you hit the 50,000 mile mark.  Rear braking is accomplished a two piston
caliper and a 300mm rear brake disc both of which will stay behind when the
rear wheel is removed.

Suspension was not spared the high tech treatment either.  A large, fully
adjustable shock is located at each end of the  Gila.  Each shock is
attached to a hydraulic linkage, which can lengthen or shorten, thus
increasing or decreasing the seat height of the bike. The control for this
is located on the left-hand grip.  Rotating the graduated grip will raise or
lower the bike or you can lock the grip and set a fixed ride height via the
LCD control panel.  Operating range of the TT850 is from a 28 inches to 35
inches in seat height.  Malden admits that the extreme ends of the operating
range cause the TT850 to handle quite differently due to the lengthening and
shortening of the wheel base.

Speaking of wheels, this is where the  Gila goes from wild to bizarre.  The
Gila uses the exact same wheel size as the venerable TW200.  "Don't try to
run a TW200 tires on it (TT850) though," warns Malden.  "You will shred them
just pulling away from a stop light."  Instead, Yamaha has been working
secretly with Bridgestone, Dunlop and Michelin to develop a variety of treat
options.  "The use of shorter wider tires and wheels was a bit odd at first,
but we realized it was best that this bike had a big foot print," explained
Malden.  "The front and back suspensions worked so well, that we could get
away with shorter wider wheels and tires which give the bike unequalled
handling on loose surfaces like gravel and sand."  But what about picking
your way through tight stuff and highway riding?   "No problem," replied
Malden.  "The TT850 is ready for any type of riding, and the new tire design
makes it stable and the highway and nimble off road."

As you may have guessed, the Gila must have some extraordinary electrical
power needs.  To keep electrical consumption in check, Yamaha used fiber
optics wherever possible.  Also, by taking advantage of the extremely
compact engine, Yamaha was able to fit twin 600watt alternators to feed
TT850's ravenous appetite for electricity.

Bodywork is minimal on the Gila.  A smallish frame mounted fairing mates up
to the 4.2-gallon plastic fuel tank.  One large round headlight graces the
front with two smaller projector lamps mounted into recesses on the front of
the fuel tank.  Instruments are LCD analog with a full complement of warning
indicators and a built in GPS.  Handlebars non-braced taper fare with hand
guards available as an option.  Switch-gear is somewhat unconventional and
cluttered with the addition of some new controls for ride height and
steering damper control.

The seat has a slight step in it but is reasonably wide and firm.  The tail
section is clean, with two tail racks available as an option.  There is a
noticeable lack of rear side panels on the Gila for a good reason as Yamaha
decided to polish the rear sub-frame and show it off.  Yamaha knew riders
would want more fuel capacity, but the special fuel tank with the
compartment for the ECP would make an after market unit hard to make.  So
Yamaha decided to beef up the sub-frame to allow for the attachment of
supplemental fuel cells on the sides of the Gila.  The molded plastic fuel
cells add 3.7 gallons (2 gallons on the left, 1.7 on the right) and look
trick with aircraft style filler caps.  They attach to welded bosses on the
sub-frame and have quick connect fuel lines.   Yamaha found that even loaded
with the 7.9 gallons of fuel, the  Gila did not exhibit the characteristic
top heaviness of a dual sport with a "tanker style" fuel tank.

Now for the two big questions: how heavy and how much?  For as loaded as the
TT850 is, it is surprisingly light at 362 lbs. dry.  The big gains in weight
reduction were with the electronic valve train and tubular RADD front swing
arm.  Not surprising is the price tag for the Gila. At $12,000, the Gila is
expensive for a dual sport, but when you consider the amount of technology
loaded in it, it may be the value of the millennium.<<



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From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) BMW drops F650, brings back R80GS (long)
Date: 01 Apr 1999 08:51:38 -0700

I told you it was coming! In an unprecedented marketing move, BMW is
bringing back a highly revised R80GS and dropping the F650 despite a PD win
and also just rolling out the new K1200LT.  BMW has never introduced a new K
and R model in the same year, but it is happening now.  My source attended
an internal showing of the bike and it sounds super.  BMW is also trying to
beat out Yamaha who is also expected to announce a high tech dual sport
soon.  Here is my sources report.  Formal announcement date should be in the
next week or so.

Gino, editor, Dual Sport News



DATELINE 4/1/99

BMW brings back the R80GS!

In a stunning announcement, BMW has announced that they will discontinue the
F650 and bring back the R80GS in 2000.  "We were never really comfortable
with the F650," explained Max Fritz, BMW's R80GS project lead.  "Even though
it did well in Dakar, it rubbed a lot of people the wrong way, so we decided
to do something about it."  What BMW decided to do was take a healthy
serving of past success and mix it with some future high tech and blend it
into the revival of one of the most beloved BMW models.  "The R80GS is
simply not an expensive retro bike based on an old air head design," claimed
the white lab coat wearing Fritz.   "It is a bike that is back to basics,
but still cutting edge."

From the looks of the pre-production model, BMW's new R80GS will stand the
dual sport world on end.  First, BMW broke from tradition and formed a
"skunk works" of sorts to design the new R80, leaving the marketing folks
completely out of the loop.  A risky move, the "skunk works" approach paid
off. Despite the engineers having free reign, the new R80GS is one
good-looking motorcycle yet extremely functional. But first, the down and
dirty tech stuff.

The R80GS uses a highly modified oil head engine that develops 73 peak hp
and 69 ft/lbs of torque.  Fritz would not give many details regarding the
new 802cc oilhead, but did say that the overall width of the engine was
reduced by almost 3 inches.  BMW gave the R80 an aluminum perimeter frame
and thus was able to lighten the engine cases considerably.  The engine
hangs from the new "Low Spar Frame", which has integrated channels that
serve as the air box, drawing air from up near the steering head and routes
it to the carburetors which are now located forward of the cylinder, not the
back.  That's right. No more fuel injection, no more Motronic surging.  The
R80 uses "Electric Slide" carburetors that have a solenoid actuated slide.
"These are smart carburetors," claims Fritz.  They are wire operated, that
is, there are no cables to them.  Instead there is a small sensor in the
throttle housing that sends a signal to the carburetors.  What's more, is
that the carburetors are self-balancing to ease maintenance.  With a low
frame, the lack of an air box and no need for a high output alternator,
there is plenty of room up top for a large fuel tank.  The R80Gs has not
one, not two nor three, but four fuel tank options.  There are the stock 4.7
gallon tank and the expedition 8.3 gallon tank.  Then there is the accessory
tank that is a marvel.  It will hold 6.5 gallons and has a molded in section
towards the front of the tank, that allows for the mounting of a GPS and
full set of lighted gauges.  Finally, if that weren't enough, there is the
Universal tank at 5.8 gallons with an attachment plate that allows for hard
mounting a tank bag and has the indent for a set of gauges or a GPS.

As you may have guessed, the combination of an opposed twin with a perimeter
frame will result in a low center of gravity.  To say the R80GS has a low CG
is an understatement; the CG on this bike is ultra low.  Despite its 10
inches of ground clearance and longish 10 inches of travel front and back,
the adjustable seat height ranges from a low (buy DP standards)  29.3 inches
to 33.2 inches.  You sit 'in' the R80GS, not on it.

Suspension is also non-tradition by current BMW standards.  Gone is the
heavy, gimmicky Telelever from the front and replaced with massive 48mm
conventional forks with Kevlar fork gaiters standard.  No more fixed front
fender either; the R80 has a conventional high mounted fender, which rides
above a 21 inch tube type spoked wheel.  At the rear end, gone is the
Paralever and the single sided swingarm.  Instead, the R80 uses an unusual
swing arm that reportedly weighs less that two-thirds what the Paralever
weighed.  The right side of the swingarm has the housing for the new
"Flexible Shaft" which is a composite material that allows it to be a mere
1" in diameter.  The left side is braced tubular that has the mounting for
the specially linked, fully adjustable single shock which reportedly
controls "shaft hop" instead of the vulnerable U-joints in the Paralever.
An 18 inch tube type spoked wheel gets the power to the ground.  Brakes are
composed of two, full floating 300mm disks up front with Brembo two pot
calipers.  The rear has a 240mm fixed rotor with a Brembo two piston
caliper.

As with all BMWs, the R80GS can be fitted with two full sized BMW cases for
touring.  But what about the muffler getting in the way of the left
sidecase?  There is no muffler!  New technology has allowed BMW to build a
new exhaust system that incorporates the silencer and catalytic converter
into the walls of the ceramic coated exhaust pipes.  They appear a little
wider than a conventional header pipe and they are the same O.D. from
cylinder head to end.  The 2-into-2 system is routed under the seat and out
the back. Thanks to the ceramic coating, most of the heat is expelled out
the rear nozzles.  A Forest Service approved cartridge style spark arrestor
lives in each pipe/muffler.

Instrumentation is surprisingly basic with analog speedometer and tachometer
tucked neatly behind a small front cowling.  Want a little more wind
protection?  The cowling can be replaced with a cowling windscreen
combination that will give better wind protection.  The handle bar is a
trick tapered unit that comes stock with aluminum core wrap around hand
guards.  The hand guards have even tricker swing away mirrors mounted to
them that will fold on impact, but provide an unequalled view behind you
since they are located so close to the end of the handle bar.  The also have
the turn signals built into them.  Instead of turn signal and brake light
bulbs, BMW uses a cluster of high output LEDs that are vibration resistant.
The R80GS is absolutely sinister when viewed from the front.  Each of the
dual round headlights are mounted outboard of the fork legs.  The large
center section vacated by the usual headlight location is now occupied by
the large oval shaped intake scoop/air cleaner.  It sounds strange, but
looks all the world like an AC Cobra.  A Kevlar/rubber boot connects the
scoop to the frame intake tract.

"This bike is intended for rugged use and abuse," exclaimed Fritz.  To make
his point, he righted the R80GS, retracted the side stand and let the bike
fall on the concrete.  Amazingly, no plastic bits and pieces skittered
across the floor, despite the loud "thunk" of the bike hitting the floor.
Lifting the R80 off the floor revealed another non-traditional BMW feature;
light weight.  The R80GS weighs a scant 328 pounds dry with the stock fuel
cell.

The R80 is finished off with a wide flat seat that rides up onto the tank
and a generous luggage rack.  Seating position is pure dual sport with
upright posture and arms reaching for wide handlebars.  The adjustable seat
and foot pegs provide ample legroom no matter what your inseam is.  BMW
decided to spare the R80 the "ugly-silver-paint" treatment that it has
lavishly applied to all of its bikes since the early 90's.  Polished and
clear coated aluminum now graces the body lines of the GS and gives the R80
a real top-shelf look.  The whole package is made even more lucrative by
another BMW first; a low price.  "We knew this bike would have to be priced
right to succeed," explained Fritz.  So with that in mind, the R80GS will
sell for about $7,199.00.  That's right.  The 2000 R80GS will be priced less
than a 1999 F650.



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From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (NKLRNDR) With regret....
Date: 01 Apr 1999 10:02:57 -0700

As some of you know, I will be unemployed soon, so I am looking at other
means to support my family.  After great soul searching and numerous
discussions with my family, I have decided that I will be entering the
publishing world full scale.  I have already applied for my business license
and will be searching or a publishing company.  I want to thank all of you
for your support of Dual Sport News in the past.  Unfortunately, there is no
money in dual sports, so I will converting DSN to Cruiser News immediately.
The Utah Get-Together will now be the Utah Cruiser Happening.  Fred, please
make note of this.  Bill haycock has been ordered to change the DSN web page
to The Official Cruiser News Web Page.  Fred has agreed to stop stocking
dual sport parts and stock up on cruiser add-on chrome and leather fringe
supplies.  Sorry for the inconvenience.

Gino, editor, Cruiser News



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From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE: (klr650) (NKLRNDR) With regret....
Date: 01 Apr 1999 10:17:41 -0700

>>Happy April Fool's Day to You Too


I wish it was a joke.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) dr350 kouba links
Date: 01 Apr 1999 20:03:57 EST

Dan...

230 lbs!  See what others say but the links may make the rear end much too
soft for your weight... I'm 205 and with the stock shock, preload cranked way
down it blows thru the stroke quickly and bottoms hard in to the rear fender
well...but for trailriding it's super plush (the first part of the rear wheel
travel) and I kept em on and like it...for fast riding, hard hits, whoops it
may not work for you???  The bare minimum for you is to upgrade to a heavier
rear spring in the rear... sitting on the bike with full gear it should sag 3
1/2 inches. The front end is easy.. Eibach .43 kg springs fit the Showa 43mm
forks and cut a PVC spacer to end up with 15 mm of preload... forget trying
to preload the stock springs...it's not the same as using a spring with a
stiffer spring rate...

Guy   @ comobu.aol



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Re: TT850 & R80GS Scoops & New Job
Date: 01 Apr 1999 21:02:22 EST


 Amazing stuff Gino. I noted that some of the improvements being
 proposed by Yamaha and BMW are the very ideas you've previously
 expressed. I doubt either company will live up to their PR though.

 Losing your job is the best thing that could happen to you. Now you
 will be free to design a DS of your own making. Let me know where
 to send my deposit. I want the first one.

 Redondo Ron  (waiting for the miracle to come)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: (klr650) Re: TT850 & R80GS Scoops & New Job
Date: 01 Apr 1999 19:26:57 -0700

| Amazing stuff Gino. I noted that some of the improvements being
| proposed by Yamaha and BMW are the very ideas you've previously
| expressed. I doubt either company will live up to their PR though.
|
| Losing your job is the best thing that could happen to you. Now you
| will be free to design a DS of your own making. Let me know where
| to send my deposit. I want the first one.
|
| Redondo Ron  (waiting for the miracle to come)


If BMW wanted to truly be retro why would they make the R80 an oilhead...

Kurt




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From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Yamaha to roll out TT850 (very long)
Date: 01 Apr 1999 22:57:12 -0700

Had me going till I remembered what day it is.  Imagine all that technology
in a dual sport!  Fantasy, for sure.  TW






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bil Seymour <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) The Wildman from Minnesota
Date: 01 Apr 1999 18:46:06 -0800

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
Hey, Dan --
<P>    You mentioned that you sneaked the DR <U>down</U>
the stairs this week.  Dare I ask:  How do you get it <U>up</U>
to the second floor every year?  You sound like a True Motorcyclist.
As always . . .
<P>        Ride Safely and Have Fun,
<P>
<<<<    Bil  Seymour
>>>>
<BR>
<BR> </HTML>




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From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links
Date: 02 Apr 1999 05:44:58 -0500

I got my front springs for my 91 from Race-Tech.com. Their web site has a
spring chart for different weight riders and bikes.
 They suggested a kit with springs and a couple sets of what I would call
adjuster springs. This let you vary the spring rate if needed.  Mine are at
the .46/kg/mm setting and I weigh about 215-220 dry.
My problem was front end dive on bermed turns. The springs made a big
difference in how the bike turns in  and corners. The front end would dive
so bad before that I would end up going over the bars. I wouldnt bother
trying to shim up the stock springs. All this does is set your front sag too
high.
My next update will be a heavier rear spring and maybe a set of the links. I
think I will ry a spring before I try a set of the links.
Good luck!
Our riding season in Michigan starts today, Good Friday!
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>
>To: '[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 4:02 AM
>Subject: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links
>
>
>> Any recommendations for spring rates (front and rear) for
>>a plump 230 lbs rider that doesn't like the front end diving when the
>>breaks are applied?  Upgrading the springs will hopefully prevent
bottoming
>>out off jumps, but I mainly want to minimize the front-end dive,
especially
>>when encountering nasty down hill trails.
>>
>>Any info would be helpful and appreciated...
>>
>>Dan
>>
>>
>>
>
>Hello Dan,
>
>Before you spring for some new springs ;<)  you might try adding some more
>"preload" to the springs that you already have.  You could add about 1/2"
to
>1" in the front and see what that does for you.  Use a stack of washers or
>cut some PVC pipe the same size as your springs and put this spacer on top.
>The rear spring can be tightened by the big adjustment nut on the shock.
>Measure your "sag" and see if it is close to 4".  Sag is the difference
>between the measurement at the rear axle to point at the end of the frame
>when the suspension is fully extended (wheel off the ground)and when it is
>compressed by you and all your riding gear.  This will usually require
>someone else to take the measurements while you sit on the seat in your
>normal riding position with all of your weight.
>
>Springs will cost you around $60 for the front and $80 for the rear.
>
>Fred Hink
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>         Arrowhead Motorsports
>http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
>435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>
>





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From: [e-mail] (Andrus Chesley)
Subject: (dr350) The beauty of suzy
Date: 01 Apr 1999 21:21:27 -0600

Did a trip today. About 90 miles going to Forest Hill, Louisiana on back
roads , mostly gravel. Then run about 10 miles of the Woodworth Loop.
Really muddy but runnable. This is the same loops that the National
Enduro was run last Sat & Sun. The tires really needed help as the
stockers are far from wet condition tires. Both ends sliding all over
the place but we didn't go down. Very few places I had to slip the
clutch. Very few places I could use 2nd gear with stock gearing at 15/41
( I think ). Needed my 13 on there but had left it at home.. .. Lost the
cover to the little tool kit.. hmmmmm. must of been pulled off by brush.
so we'll elimenated the little dude as it doesn't seem fesible to
replace it. Just put the tools in the tailpack. ..... Then aimed my worn
out old body to the highway and back to Jennings via highway and 60 - 65
MPH. Was stopped in a little town because the law though my bike was a
dirt bike with all the mud on it and me. But after showing them that it
had Hi/Low beam, brake lites, signal lights that worked,  rear view
mirrows and even a licience plate;; they said "Cool and let me go"  ha
ha ha I had left the regestration and inspection sticker in my other
helment at home. In Louisiana, motorcycles have to pass the same
inspection as a car and have the sticker with you so they can gig you on
that if they want you bad enuff.
After this it was  ZIP to Jennings and stop at the car wash to clean the
bike and me. No I didn't shove dirt into the seals and bearings. ;-).

Hey!!!!!  Is this dual sporting or what?   Ha ha ha

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tim's side racks.
Date: 02 Apr 1999 07:05:57 -0700

Got my side racks for my DR350 from Tim Bernard.  As always, workmanship is
perfect.  These things should be standard on all dual sports.  Great job
Tim!

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR turn signal relocation
Date: 02 Apr 1999 07:07:54 -0700

This may have already been covered, but I'm planning on going with smaller
turn signals on my DR350SE.  Has anyone found a supplier for the small
electrical connectors Suzuki uses on their turn signals?

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) A "Pipe" question
Date: 02 Apr 1999 22:36:07 -0600

Hi all,

I am fairly new to the dr350 , just got it a few month ago, before that
i was into street bikes mainly.
I know it is a 350 and not a big monster but it feels to me right now
little bit on week side , and could use a little more power , any body
had any good experience putting an after market pipe on it ?
Does it really wake up the bike , is it noticeable after the
installation or just gets louder?
And does it worth $200.
If the answer is YES , than what brand do you recommend?
Or any other technical info on power boost would be appreciated

Thanks

Geo




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "loren & julie bohl" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) GOOD FRIDAY RIDE IN N. WIS.
Date: 03 Apr 1999 15:00:57 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    We just done a ride in the Chippewa Falls on Good Fri., it has been =
going on since 1967 when an old acquaintance started the ride by taking =
his kids there to ride snowmobiles, after that they did the trail bike =
thing with some friends and yesterday there was about 40 to 50 people =
with everything from YZF400's to old three wheelers.=20
    It looked like almost everyone was having a ball accept for the =
usual unprepared squid trying to do a rebuild the day of.  The only =
accident I knew of was a single rider miss calculated the braking =
ability of his new knobs on a tar road, they hauled him back to the =
parking area instead of back to civilation, so it must not have been all =
that bad...hopefully!=20
    The layout is a county forest off HWY#64 north of Bloomer Wi., Very =
close to a snowmobile/atv. supply shop called Art's Electric, pretty =
back woodsy, but I've heard nothing but good things about the place. The =
trails loop off from a few gravel roads, and there are plenty of them. =
My brother and I didn't see too many bikes while we were out on the =
trails so it was pretty spread out.
    Anyway, back to the guy who started it, he used to ride trail bike, =
road tour, and even came to Brainerd Raceway when his kid started that, =
then one day we see this guy and he's in a wheel chair. It turns out he =
was having a pretty simple operation when the surgeon damaged his spinal =
cord.   WOW I guess you never know. But there he was in the parking lot =
watching everyone else havin a ball, I think it made him feel good =
having started it.
    The DR350 worked flawlessly as usual, the only nasty is the head =
light which must have been smashed by one of the other bikes we were =
chasing...What a blast, lots of mud, sand, gravel roads, we even found a =
few single track trails.
    We also found some really nasty logging trails which were still =
frozen under about a foot of mud----we actually turned around on that =
one, and that rarely happens.

    From what I've heard there will be another one next year, if anyone =
wants to know any thing else about it let me know.

    Is there anyone around this area who is going to the Thielman ride =
in Southeast Minnesota on 5/22&23/99, we went last year the spring ride =
was a blast, very tight trails, they even had a section that was labeled =
"more difficult" and it was.  I think the Fall ride is the last weekend =
in Aug.

LOREN DR350ES =20

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    We just done a =
ride in the=20
Chippewa Falls on Good Fri., it has been going on since 1967 when an old =

acquaintance started the ride by taking his kids there to ride =
snowmobiles,=20
after that they did the trail bike thing with some friends and yesterday =
there=20
was about 40 to 50 people with everything from YZF400's to old three =
wheelers.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    It looked like =
almost=20
everyone was having a ball accept for the usual unprepared squid trying =
to do a=20
rebuild the day of.  The only accident I knew of was a single rider =
miss=20
calculated the braking ability of his new knobs on a tar road, they =
hauled him=20
back to the parking area instead of back to civilation, so it must not =
have been=20
all that bad...hopefully! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    The layout is a =
county forest=20
off HWY#64 north of Bloomer Wi., Very close to a snowmobile/atv. supply =
shop=20
called Art's Electric, pretty back woodsy, but I've heard nothing but =
good=20
things about the place. The trails loop off from a few gravel roads, and =
there=20
are plenty of them. My brother and I didn't see too many bikes while we =
were out=20
on the trails so it was pretty spread out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    Anyway, back to =
the guy who=20
started it, he used to ride trail bike, road tour, and even came to =
Brainerd=20
Raceway when his kid started that, then one day we see this guy and he's =
in a=20
wheel chair. It turns out he was having a pretty simple operation when =
the=20
surgeon damaged his spinal cord.   WOW I guess you never know. =
But=20
there he was in the parking lot watching everyone else havin a ball, I =
think it=20
made him feel good having started it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    The DR350 worked =
flawlessly=20
as usual, the only nasty is the head light which must have been smashed =
by one=20
of the other bikes we were chasing...What a blast, lots of mud, sand, =
gravel=20
roads, we even found a few single track trails.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    We also found =
some really=20
nasty logging trails which were still frozen under about a foot of =
mud----we=20
actually turned around on that one, and that rarely =
happens.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    From what I've =
heard there=20
will be another one next year, if anyone wants to know any thing else =
about it=20
let me know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>    Is there anyone =
around this=20
area who is going to the Thielman ride in Southeast Minnesota on =
5/22&23/99,=20
we went last year the spring ride was a blast, very tight trails, they =
even had=20
a section that was labeled "more difficult" and it was.  =
I think=20
the Fall ride is the last weekend in Aug.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>LOREN DR350ES  =
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE7DE2.C767C4A0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links
Date: 03 Apr 1999 18:08:54 -0600 (CST)


Reply-To: Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>

Does anyone know what differentiates a Kouba link to a stock linkage?  What
is the difference in centerline hole spacing and how the centerline spacing
on the link sized or optimized (rider weight, terrain, etc.)?  With the
addition of a Kouba Link, do you need to change the rear shock spring rate?
 My bike is a 1994 DR350SE.

Second question: Any recommendations for spring rates (front and rear) for
a plump 230 lbs rider that doesn't like the front end diving when the
breaks are applied?  Upgrading the springs will hopefully prevent bottoming
out off jumps, but I mainly want to minimize the front-end dive, especially
when encountering nasty down hill trails.

Any info would be helpful and appreciated...

Dan


Dan;  I would reccomend .46KG fork springs, and a 7.6KG shock spring with
the Kouba links or a 6.7KG shock spring with the stock links for all around
riding.  If mogals and jumps are in the majority of your riding, then the
next stiffer rear spring would be required respectively.  Am working on a
info sheet and will post it soon.

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Need Info on Kouba Links
Date: 03 Apr 1999 18:08:53 -0600 (CST)


On 04/02/99 05:44:58 you wrote:
>
>I got my front springs for my 91 from Race-Tech.com. Their web site has a
>spring chart for different weight riders and bikes.
> They suggested a kit with springs and a couple sets of what I would call
>adjuster springs. This let you vary the spring rate if needed.  Mine are at
>the .46/kg/mm setting and I weigh about 215-220 dry.
>My problem was front end dive on bermed turns. The springs made a big
>difference in how the bike turns in  and corners. The front end would dive
>so bad before that I would end up going over the bars. I wouldnt bother
>trying to shim up the stock springs. All this does is set your front sag
too
>high.
>My next update will be a heavier rear spring and maybe a set of the links.
I
>think I will ry a spring before I try a set of the links.
>Good luck!
>Our riding season in Michigan starts today, Good Friday!

Dave;  The Kouba Links will require a 7.6KG spring and the stock links would
require a 6.7KG, or possibly even a little heavier depending on your riding
style ect. What I,m trying to say is you may not have the correct spring if
you decided to go with the links. The good news is, if you were not
satisfied with the performance of the links you can send them back within 30
days for a full refund less $3.00 frt.

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) A "Pipe" question
Date: 04 Apr 1999 10:00:53 -0700

Several friends who have use the new Supertrapp IDS (Internal Disc System)
on their bikes and have seen dramatic improvements.  The nice thing about
them is they aren't obnoxiously loud like some pipes are.

Anyone else have comments on pipes?  I'm interested in replacing my stock
pipe on my 94 SE model.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question
Date: 04 Apr 1999 11:19:00 -0600

SuperTrapp makes two different IDS pipes.  The quiet series is a nice mellow
pipe that will help make power on the low and middle but not much more on
the top end.  The racing series will make more power everywhere but is also
much louder.  I use the quiet series on my XR650L and I use the FMF Megamax
on my XR600.  Both are good pipes for what they are designed to do.

I can get you either an IDS($227) or the Megamax($249) for your DR.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>Several friends who have use the new Supertrapp IDS (Internal Disc System)
>on their bikes and have seen dramatic improvements.  The nice thing about
>them is they aren't obnoxiously loud like some pipes are.
>
>Anyone else have comments on pipes?  I'm interested in replacing my stock
>pipe on my 94 SE model.
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question
Date: 04 Apr 1999 13:31:29 EDT

There are many advantages to changing the exhaust system on a DR,
particularly if you own the dirt version. Almost without exception all after
market exhaust will improve performance on this machine. The decision to get
a pipe is easy. Trying to decide which one to get is a little more
challenging.

 The first thing you have to decide is what you want the pipe to do for you.
No one pipe is the best at all points in the power band. I ride the tight
trails in the East. My main concern was to get maximum bottom end grunt. Any
improvements to the mid and upper range of power would be a bonus.

 After that decision is made you can start doing the research. Lucky for you
in the April issue of DIRT RIDER magazine they did an extensive comparison of
after market pipes. The testing was performed on an XR 400 but the data is
still relative. I would say this is a definite must read for all thumper
riders.

 Unfortunately for me I had to do all my research the hard way, but after it
was all said and done I chose "Mike Youngs Big Gun Exhaust."  This pipe is
awesome. It delivers massive bottom end improvement. Very good mid
improvement and it even gives a little more up top. Another good thing about
this pipe is the weight you save, about 10 lbs. if memory serves me. (My
father uses the stock exhaust as a boat anchor)

 Of course there is a price to pay for this power and I don't mean money.
This is a very loud exhaust system. It is however still legal in national
parks with the spark arrester insert. I wouldn't try this pipe on my dual
sport. Also you need to put a little money in the budget for rejetting. The
bike will not even start without it.

 I was going to include Mike Youngs phone number but have misplaced it. If
anyone has it please post it. Mike loves to talk to people about his product.
He even spent about a half hour with me talking about other improvements I
could make on my DR. (try getting the owner of FMF to do that) Before his
accident he was one of the best thumper racers around and he is still one of
the best guys in the business.

Good Luck

Robert A.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) A "Pipe" question
Date: 04 Apr 1999 13:43:16 EDT

On 4/4/99 , [e-mail] writes: snip

> I was going to include Mike Youngs phone number but have misplaced it.
>If anyone has it please post it. Mike loves to talk to people about his
product.
>He even spent about a half hour with me talking about other improvements
>I could make on my DR. (try getting the owner of FMF to do that) Before his
>accident he was one of the best thumper racers around and he is still one
>of the best guys in the business.
[see April issue of DIRT RIDER magazine]


 I second that Robert. Mike is still tweaking his second generation
 'quieter core'. This new slip in core is supposed to reduce the db
 level another 5 points below the current spark arrestor insert,
 without sacrificing any power. In the meantime, none of my
 neighbors have sent me any death threats...

 Mike Young - [phone]
 http://www.biggunexhaust.com/

 Redondo Ron - making friends wherever he rides




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 Advice
Date: 04 Apr 1999 12:39:28 -0700

Mike,

Give Cycle Gear a call (800 cyclegear); ask for their Stage 1 kit - it contains
a Uni filter, jetting & instructions on opening up the top of the air box.

The best investment for the DR is suspension mods. Buy the Kouba link (a must
have), go to his recommended rear & front springs (yes, do them both). You could
have the front revalved later or do it now if you can afford it.

The balance of mods available (there's many) won't add as much benefit/gain per
$ as those above.

John



Hi everyone,
I'm new to the list and also to the DR350. I just bought a 98 DR350SE on
Monday. I live in Central Pennsylvania and I'm planning on dirt riding
95% of the time.

     I'm interested in geting some advice on modifications to the DR
that will improve the performance in the dirt and not hurt the
reliability of the bike. I have seen others talk about modifying the
airbox but they haven't gone into detail as to how to do it. I would
also like to find out more about carb jetting, suspension setups, tires,
handguards etc. etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
             Mike

p.s. I'm also looking for other riders and places to ride.











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Plans for Moab 4/24/99
Date: 05 Apr 1999 15:05:33 -0600

What are the plans for the Moab trip on April 24?

Is everyone going to...

a.  Go to Eddie McStiffs and drink beer all day
b.  Ride the White Rim Trail
c.  Buy parachutes and ride their bikes off of Musselman Arch
d.  All of the above

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Plans..
Date: 05 Apr 1999 15:58:00 -0600

Gino raises a good question..plans. I think it would be a good idea to arrange a daily
gathering point. How about the Moab diner each day at 8:00 a.m. for breakfast...departure at
9:00 a.m. So, those who don't want to join in for breakfast need to be there about 8:30 to get
a sense of what rides are happening. I'm thinking Thursday would be a good day for the White
Rim but I'm flexible...Why don't we all check in with this mailing list (just hit the reply to
all) and we'll have an idea of when people are arriving. I'm going to arrive on Wednesday, the
21st. by 12:00. Still not sure if I'm camping, bringing the trailer or what...

Kurt
Please forgive the cross-post this one time, some of you will get this message 4
times...yikkess..




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Plans..
Date: 05 Apr 1999 17:09:34 -0600

Hey Kurt & others this is my tenative agenda:Moab tentative trip plan
Wednesday 4-21 travel to Goblin Valley State Park. Primitive camping
Thursday 4-22 ride San Rafael Swell south of Interstate
Friday 4-23 ride San Rafael Swell & depart in the afternoon to Moab to
Canyon Lands RV Park.
Saturday 4-24 Enjoy Moab Car Show etc.....maybe afternoon ride
Sunday 4-25 Depart early for Dugout Ranch & Beef Basin .......long day
Jerry & Tim need transportation this day
Monday 4-26 Depart for Boise. You can do all of this on a Kouba prepared DR
or get to Moab early & have Fred dial you in. Should we have a BBQA
Canyonlands RV park Friday Or Satuurday night.
Happy Trails
Tim & Obe
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; Minh Lang <[e-mail]>; Mike
Sonzini <[e-mail]>; Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>; Jim Rowley
<[e-mail]>; Howard Schultz <[e-mail]>;
Gino Pokluda <[e-mail]>; Fred Hink <[e-mail]>; David Asselin
<[e-mail]>; Conall O'Brien <[e-mail]>; Chuck Brown
<[e-mail]>; Bruce Hedquist <[e-mail]>; Vik Banerjee
<[e-mail]>
Cc: KLR List <[e-mail]>; dust <[e-mail]>; dr350
<[e-mail]>


>Gino raises a good question..plans. I think it would be a good idea to
arrange a daily
>gathering point. How about the Moab diner each day at 8:00 a.m. for
breakfast...departure at
>9:00 a.m. So, those who don't want to join in for breakfast need to be
there about 8:30 to get
>a sense of what rides are happening. I'm thinking Thursday would be a good
day for the White
>Rim but I'm flexible...Why don't we all check in with this mailing list
(just hit the reply to
>all) and we'll have an idea of when people are arriving. I'm going to
arrive on Wednesday, the
>21st. by 12:00. Still not sure if I'm camping, bringing the trailer or
what...
>
>Kurt
>Please forgive the cross-post this one time, some of you will get this
message 4
>times...yikkess..
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 06 Apr 1999 10:01:00 -0400

I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for a new
bike.

Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike.  Kick starting sounds good
to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead
battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills!  However, while
I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :)  How hard is
the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot &
stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 06 Apr 1999 08:15:20 -0600

>>Kick starting sounds good
to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead
battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills!<<

The key word here is "once".  Second, I have never (I know, never say never)
had a battery fail on any motorcycle I've owned because ...

A.  I replace them with high quality units.
B.  Keep them on a charger winter and summer.
C.  Don't expect them to last more than 3 years, so I replace them every 3
years.

Just my humble opinion, time for another cup of coffee.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List is still growing...
Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:21:34 -0600

This is my weekly post to let people know they are subscribed to the dr350 list...we are
growing nicely so keep up the good work spreading the news. We are at 93 subscribers in our
sixth week of existence. Here are the archive locations for your records:

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
http://www.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/?923419047

I've also established a web-site where I have room for any dr350 pertinent info. So, let me
know. I'll be posting a description of my install on an Ahhhh...ahhhh..cher...bis fuel tank and
Kouba Kouba links after this upcoming weekend...Any tips from vets? The website is at:

http://members.tripod.com/ajaxut/index.html

Regards,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:39:21 -0600

If you are @ low altitude & your bike is @ high altitude the bike is nearly
impossible to start when you get back to it due to the conditon of the
rider, however fi the altiudes are reverse it depends more on the bike
condition. The Taebo bikes can also have a problem if the Taebo lever falls
off.
Happy Trails
Tim
-----Original Message-----


>I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for a new
>bike.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>-------------------------------------------
>Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike.  Kick starting sounds good
>to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead
>battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills!  However, while
>I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :)  How hard is
>the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot &
>stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning?
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Ron Sutton <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:09:44 -0700 (PDT)



Hello DR's,

I'm new to the list, been lurking a while.  I just got
my 96 DR350SE about a week ago. Now that that's out of
the way, here's my .02 cents worth.

> Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike.

I'm just the opposite, I've never owned a bike with
electric start and I must say, I LIKE IT!!

Ron

PS: Sorry Nick, I haven't got this "Reply to All"
thing down yet.

===
Ron Sutton in Alton, IL, USA
68 Norton P11A
74 Rokon RT340
74 Rokon MX340 "Cobra"
78 Yamaha SR500E
96 Suzuki DR350SE
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Joseph Trunz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 04:22:47 -0600

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--------------683C31220DDC2BB656318807
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

All,
I've been riding street bikes for 15 years and have decided to kiss the
asphalt good bye and head for the Mountains. Friends have told me that a
DR350 would be a good first choice. What is a reasonable price range for
a 1995/96 DR350SE in good to excellent condition ?

JPT

Ron Sutton wrote:

> Hello DR's,
>
> I'm new to the list, been lurking a while.  I just got
> my 96 DR350SE about a week ago. Now that that's out of
> the way, here's my .02 cents worth.
>
> > Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike.
>
> I'm just the opposite, I've never owned a bike with
> electric start and I must say, I LIKE IT!!
>
> Ron
>
> PS: Sorry Nick, I haven't got this "Reply to All"
> thing down yet.
>
> ===
> Ron Sutton in Alton, IL, USA
> 68 Norton P11A
> 74 Rokon RT340
> 74 Rokon MX340 "Cobra"
> 78 Yamaha SR500E
> 96 Suzuki DR350SE
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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--------------683C31220DDC2BB656318807--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 06 Apr 1999 16:30:54 -0600

>I've been riding street bikes for 15 years and have decided to kiss the
>asphalt good bye and head for the Mountains. Friends have told me that a
>DR350 would be a good first choice. What is a reasonable price range for
>a 1995/96 DR350SE in good to excellent condition ?


$2,200 - $3,200 depending on year and mileage...I was about to buy a '95 with 7,500 miles at
$2,250 and got lucky and Tim Bernard spotted a '97 with 1,500 miles for $2,700.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) exhaust systems
Date: 06 Apr 1999 17:52:20 -0400 (EDT)

I'm in the process of choosing a yoshimura yrd or a big gun exhaust system.
noise is a concern, are they any different re: performance; noise; ect. the
price difference is 275

  any advice would be most helpful!!

 thanks kevin




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List is still growing...
Date: 06 Apr 1999 11:21:34 -0600

This is my weekly post to let people know they are subscribed to the dr350 list...we are
growing nicely so keep up the good work spreading the news. We are at 93 subscribers in our
sixth week of existence. Here are the archive locations for your records:

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
http://www.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/archive/?923419047

I've also established a web-site where I have room for any dr350 pertinent info. So, let me
know. I'll be posting a description of my install on an Ahhhh...ahhhh..cher...bis fuel tank and
Kouba Kouba links after this upcoming weekend...Any tips from vets? The website is at:

http://members.tripod.com/ajaxut/index.html

Regards,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Andrus Chesley)
Subject: (dr350) Tank panniers
Date: 06 Apr 1999 20:48:25 -0500

Hi people,
Bought a set of Tank Panniers for the DR350 from Cabela's. Work really
good for keeping small items at hands reach. Maps, notebook, eats,
waterbottle, etc..  Your knees will be rubbing againt them when sitting
down but they are nice in front of the knees when running at speed.  The
bag is held in place with a foam strap which fit over the gas cap with a
hole for the gas cap cut out in it. But I had to inlarge this hole for
the Cap on the IMS tank to seal.
They also have a loop and hook velcro setup to hold them on the sides of
the gas tank. Mine  come unglued from what I'm fairly sure is gas vapors
going thru the plastic, as it does, and attacking the glue.  So what I
did was to take a piece of 1" straping material and glue/sew some Hook
material on it and run it around front of the gas tank and hooking up
with the Loop material on the Panniers... This does the job of holding
them forwards on the tank. I don't worry about them flopping about too
much as I'm not jumping anything that big with This bike anyway. Ha ha
ha.
In case anyone is interested..... They are in the ATV section of the New
Cabela's Master Catolog # RZ-1103 on page 45 and the part no. is
RZ-52-0010 and the colors are Black or Advantage Camo.  List for 39.99
plus shipping.

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 05:44:53 PDT

Hi all-  I'm going to buy a used DR350 in near future, I now just have
to decide whether I'll get the SE or the dirt version & put a dual
sport kit on it.  I've got a few questions:

1) I rode a new 99 DR350SE a month ago and was pleasantly surprised
to find that it could cruise at 70mph.  Enough people have told me
that the XR400 is just no good at hiway work, so I've written it off.
 I will be doing alot of hiway miles to get to the places where I want
to ride off-road.  Does the dirt only DR have different transmission
ratios from the SE?  Same sprockets?

2)regarding my search for a used DR....
I think the SE went to cartridge forks in 97; had the dirt only model
always had cartridge forks?

3)current model year Suzuki literature says the dirt only model has a
different carb than the SE.  Is it better?  Other than lighter weight,
what advantages/better components do you get with the dirt only model?

4)what would be the oldest model year of each I should consider?

Thanks in advance-

Bryan (98 ZX-6R for sale in Dallas, $6100, perfect cond)

(Thanks for turning me on to this list Nick)


>From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
>To: "'dr350 post'" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) to all you electric people
>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 10:01:00 -0400
>
>I cut this out of a post to the thumper list about a guy looking for
a new
>bike.
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
>-------------------------------------------
>Finally, I've never owned a kick-start bike.  Kick starting sounds
good
>to me since I've been stuck in the Rocky mountains once w/ a dead
>battery & nobody to help w/ push-start & no down hills!  However,
while
>I am 6'0" 180 lbs, I am rather, uh..."chicken-legged" :)  How hard is
>the XR400 going to be to start in the worst conditions, like when hot
&
>stalled by crash....or a cold, high-altitude morning?
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Lees, John W" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Tank panniers
Date: 07 Apr 1999 07:25:14 -0700

test

> ----------
> From:     [e-mail][SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     Tuesday, April 06, 1999 6:48 PM
> To:     DRList; [e-mail]
> Subject:     (dr350) Tank panniers
>
> Hi people,
> Bought a set of Tank Panniers for the DR350 from Cabela's. Work really
> good for keeping small items at hands reach. Maps, notebook, eats,
> waterbottle, etc..  Your knees will be rubbing againt them when sitting
> down but they are nice in front of the knees when running at speed.  The
> bag is held in place with a foam strap which fit over the gas cap with a
> hole for the gas cap cut out in it. But I had to inlarge this hole for
> the Cap on the IMS tank to seal.
> They also have a loop and hook velcro setup to hold them on the sides of
> the gas tank. Mine  come unglued from what I'm fairly sure is gas vapors
> going thru the plastic, as it does, and attacking the glue.  So what I
> did was to take a piece of 1" straping material and glue/sew some Hook
> material on it and run it around front of the gas tank and hooking up
> with the Loop material on the Panniers... This does the job of holding
> them forwards on the tank. I don't worry about them flopping about too
> much as I'm not jumping anything that big with This bike anyway. Ha ha
> ha.
> In case anyone is interested..... They are in the ATV section of the New
> Cabela's Master Catolog # RZ-1103 on page 45 and the part no. is
> RZ-52-0010 and the colors are Black or Advantage Camo.  List for 39.99
> plus shipping.
>
> --
> Cheers and Best Regards
> Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
> '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
> '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
> "So Many Roads, So Little Time"
> http://www.deltech.net/members/aches
>
>
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 08:49:01 -0600


>2)regarding my search for a used DR....
>I think the SE went to cartridge forks in 97; had the dirt only model
>always had cartridge forks?


The SE went to cartridge in '98

>>4)what would be the oldest model year of each I should consider?


Bryan, this cuts to the heart of your entire question...'94 SE...the first year it had lecky
start...the dirt model doesn't have it..ergo..buy an SE from '94 on up...

Kurt '97 SE




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:23:13 -0500

Hi Bryan.

I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but
you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a
goldwing or so.
As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it.
Front forks are the same ,
Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer
susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE.
SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury
riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it
......... Hart to get it going.
On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter
+ battery +lights, ......)
DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i
guess)
DR has a tall seat height 36.2"  if you shorter than 6' you will not be
able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35"
DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it
has some traction on the road.
As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know
if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket.
The engine should be the same.
Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!!
I have to ride on the street to  so i picked the SE . I like it.
I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions.

George






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:15:50 -0700

George Kovacs wrote:
>
> Hi Bryan.
>
> I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.

  The "X" is a designator for the model year.  I have a 1998 DR350SE.
Another way to specify that is DR350SEW (The "W" = 1998).  So saying "99
DR350SEX" is redundant.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Susan J. Merrill)
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:34:32 PDT


> > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.

Oh, I thought it was a clever advertising ploy - a DR350 "SEX" ;)

Susan

 (This post represents my opinion and not that of JPL.)



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 11:40:19 -0700

Hi there,

  I'm new to this list, so I'll go ahead and give a little info about
me.

  I live in Santa Rosa, California, which is located about 60 miles
north of the Golden Gate bridge.

  I mostly ride trails in the Ukiah area where there is a 60,000 acre
BLM OHV area and thousands of acres of US Forest riding / camping
places.  I also ride in the South Bay area at places like Metcalf which
has a few trails and some MX tracks (fun).  I haven't made it to
Hollister yet, but I'd like to get there sometime soon.

  I also commute to work on my bike, so that's one of the main reasons I
chose the '98 Suzuki DR350SE.  I bought it new last year in Petaluma
(great bike shop) and have over 2000 miles on it.  I've done highway
riding with my dad and his Harley sportster 883, trail riding, MX and
Dual Sport with some friends.

The only modifications I've done are:

*  Replaced the stock tires with Dunlop intermediate terrain knobbies.

*  Added rim locks.

*  Put on Bark Busters.

*  Added the replacement rack so I can carry a small pack on the rear.

*  Replaced the rear turn signal indicators with some small ones.

*  Took off the license plate holder assembly and mounted my license
plate under the brake light, using the bolts from the brake assembly as
part of the license plate holder.

*  Replaced the front sprocket with a 14 tooth one giving me 14/41
gearing.  This actually gave me more top end as the bike couldn't
redline with the 15/41 gearing.

*  Took the plug out of the top of the airbox.

*  Bought a set of replacement plastic as we tend to get a little wild
when trail riding :-)  I keep the extra set for when I'm just doing
street riding.

  The bike I owned previous to my DRSE, and still own, is an '85 Honda
CR125R.  I still ride it, and I love doing MX with it.  I've been riding
/ owning motorcycles for 24 years with about 10 years of dirt bike
experience.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Lees, John W" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) new to list
Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:21:59 -0700

Hello I am new to the list. I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought. My question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long.
    It is quite a mixed bag on the opinion of the guy's selling tires around here (Portland, or.) . I also noticed that most tires (dual sport are 80/20 or 20/80 (street/dirt) . Is there a 70/30 or a 60/40 ?  Any input to this post will be appreciated. . . Please help.

> ----------
> From:     George Kovacs[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     George Kovacs
> Sent:     Wednesday, April 07, 1999 10:23 AM
> To:     Bryan Nolastname
> Cc:     [e-mail]
> Subject:     Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
>
> Hi Bryan.
>
> I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
> The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but
> you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a
> goldwing or so.
> As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it.
> Front forks are the same ,
> Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer
> susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE.
> SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury
> riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it
> ......... Hart to get it going.
> On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter
> + battery +lights, ......)
> DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i
> guess)
> DR has a tall seat height 36.2"  if you shorter than 6' you will not be
> able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35"
> DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it
> has some traction on the road.
> As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know
> if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket.
> The engine should be the same.
> Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!!
> I have to ride on the street to  so i picked the SE . I like it.
> I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions.
>
> George
>
>
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 center stand
Date: 07 Apr 1999 13:54:01 -0600

I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one.

I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE.  I
should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from
Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works.

Gino, editor, Dual Sport News



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: M Lang <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 center stand
Date: 07 Apr 1999 12:55:49 -0800

>I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one.
>
>I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE.  I
>should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from
>Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works.
>
>Gino, editor, Dual Sport News

I would like to get one too. How much does it cost?

 = Minh =





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) DR350 center stand
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:01:21 -0600

>>I would like to get one too. How much does it cost?

We're not sure yet, with shipping and customs costs.  But it will be about
$100.00.  I have one from the same manufacturer on my KLR650 and it is a
pretty slick deal. Unfortunately, this company is notorious for making stuff
that does not fit!

So we will have to be patient.  The reason I posted the message early was
for DR350 riders to think about it and give some feedback so that the
supplier could order a larger lot and cut the cost... if it all pans out.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 center stand
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:36:20 -0600



>I know some of you will ask "WHY?" but there are some who might want one.
>
>I think I have found a supplier for a center stand for the DR350SE.  I
>should be taking delivery of the unit in about 4 weeks (it's coming from
>Europe) and will let everyone know if it fits and how it works.
>
>Gino, editor, Dual Sport News


Mike Walburn told me that DualStar is going to make one as well. He couldn't tell me when he
expected to have it in production. He is sending me one of his stainless steel luggage racks to
look at...I'll probably do a write-up and compare it with Obe Wan's....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tank Panniers...
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:46:10 -0600

Gino or others, have you tried your Aerostich Tank Panniers on the 350? How is the fit? You
have the smaller ones right?

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>]
Date: 07 Apr 1999 15:15:30 -0600


>To: [e-mail] ("Lees, John W")
>Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 14:06:27 PDT
>Cc: [e-mail]
>In-Reply-To: <[e-mail]>; from "Lees,
John W" at Apr 7, 99 12:21 (noon)
>From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>X-Mailer: Elm [revision: 212.2]
>
>> Hello I am new to the list.  I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought.  My
>> question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do
>> more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on
>> nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long.


>  That's because there really is no such thing as a Dual Sport tire.
>If the tire is good on the road, meaning long lasting and offers good
>traction, then it's a piece in the dirt.  The stock tires for the '98
>that I bought worked great on the street, but they were scary in the
>dirt.
>
>  There was a significant noticeable difference in dirt riding, even
>just fire roads, when I put on knobbies.  If you haven't ridden dirt
>with full knobbies, then you won't understand the difference.
>
>  If you're going to do any dirt riding, then the best tire is
>probably the Pirelli MT-21.  People report getting over 2000 miles on
>them, and that's about as good as you're going to get for a good dirt
>tire.
>
>--
>Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tires...
Date: 07 Apr 1999 15:22:53 -0600

For mostly street you couldn't beat Avon Gripsters...they seem to be the tire of choice for GS
bikes, KLR's and why not the DR's...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Cheap knee braces!!
Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:57:32 EDT

I just got a set of inexpensive knee braces. Bought them at Big 5 Sporting
Goods for about $30 each. They are made of neophrene and have sturdy aluminum
hinged bracing along each side. If anyone is interested I will supply the
manufacturer.. Since they weren't specifically designed for dirt biking they
tend to rub a little when you are sitting. Otherwise they are quite good. I
use them under standard knee/shin guard protectors.

John f.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) new to list (Re:)
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:28:13 PDT

[e-mail] ("Lees, John W") wrote:

> Hello I am new to the list.  I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought.  My
> question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do
> more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on
> nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long.
>
> It is quite a mixed bag on the opinion of the guy's selling tires
> around here (Portland, or.)  .  I also noticed that most tires (dual
> sport are 80/20 or 20/80 (street/dirt) .  Is there a 70/30 or a 60/40
> ?  Any input to this post will be appreciated.  .  .
> Please help.

  That's because there really is no such thing as a Dual Sport tire.
If the tire is good on the road, meaning long lasting and offers good
traction, then it's a piece in the dirt.  The stock tires for the '98
that I bought worked great on the street, but they were scary in the
dirt.

  There was a significant noticeable difference in dirt riding, even
just fire roads, when I put on knobbies.  If you haven't ridden dirt
with full knobbies, then you won't understand the difference.

  If you're going to do any dirt riding, then the best tire is
probably the Pirelli MT-21.  People report getting over 2000 miles on
them, and that's about as good as you're going to get for a good dirt
tire.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:51:41 EDT

In a message dated 4/7/99 11:41:05 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< [e-mail] >>
Welcome to the list. I am down here in Sausalito. Maybe we can keep each
other informed about rides in the north bay area.

John Fraser
1994 DR350




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request
Date: 07 Apr 1999 17:02:04 -0500

Good Day All!

Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell
of the carb?  My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated
slide).  I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an
aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock
exhaust.  I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot
jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock.  The bike runs
great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open.
 I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering
the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it
either runs a little rich or a little lean.
Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit
welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage"
adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued
extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished
product.

Has anyone played with the carb?

Dan




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:51:55 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:

> Welcome to the list. I am down here in Sausalito. Maybe we can keep each
> other informed about rides in the north bay area.

  Sounds good.  I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to
this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for
doing it:

  Does everyone in Northern California know about the Poker run this
weekend (April 10/11) in Petaluma?  It's being put on by the MCMA (Marin
County Motorcycle Association).  AMA and D-36 membership are required
and you can sign up at the event.

  The Poker run is on Saturday, and there is a Hare scramble on Sunday.
Camping is available, and there will be a BBQ with a live band to
benefit the Marin Hospice Satuday night.

  You can find out more information at:

http://www.xmax.com/mcma/race99.htm

  I'll be trailering the DR with my Suburban so if anyone sees me, stop
by and say hi.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction..NDR
Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:07:09 -0600


>  Sounds good.  I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to
>this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for
>doing it:

I want to run this list the same way we run the KLR list.

We encourage all listers to use the regular subscription as opposed to the digest version
because you have much more control in the regular subscription....most especially the use of
"filters" in your email program. In order for the filters to do any good we need posters to be
courteous and acknowledge that some folks are on the list only because of a narrow interest in
DR350 specific info. They have no need for "affinity"...the compromise is this. All posts that
are not DR specific..and I do mean specific should have NDR in the subject line...it can only
be NDR and it stands for No DR content. It must be NDR because it allows a person to set a
filter on all posts with NDR in the subject line and route them to a special folder or,
alternatively, to trash them so that it is as if they never saw the post at all.

This works folks if we just exercise discipline. It makes for a lot of peace and a friendly
place to be. Notice I have NDR in my subject line. Given this courtesy there are only two rules
which I feel strongly about...

1. No personal insults or diatribes

2. No discussion of issues which become controversial...there are forums for gun control,
wilderness values, religion, etc.

I'd like this to be a friendly place to be...kinda of like dropping in at Fred Hink's garage
shop and kicking the tires, laughing, and talking as the world spins by...mostly about bikes
but sometimes who knows...last night we had a long discussion about bears on the KLR list and I
thought it was a riot...scared me half to death because I'm going to ride in bear country this
year....

Thanks for the bandwidth,

Kurt






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 16:32:27 -0600

Scott:

Enjoyed reading your message.

You mentioned taking the "plug" out of the airbox. What "plug" are you
referring to? My airbox had about a 2" circular opening in the top; no
plug. I sawed the top of the air box out to within a half inch of its sides
all around to let in a little more air. Is that what you did?

While I'm at it, I guess I'll share some info about myself with the group,
too.

I live in west Texas, El Paso to be specific. It's all desert around here.
I ride some in the foothills of the Franklin Mountains (southernmost tip of
the Rockies). Very rocky, and lots of cactus (including lechuguilla, also
known as "Spanish dagger"). It can be treacherous riding and since I ride
alone for the most part, I don't go there often anymore. I also have a
permit to ride on a nearby military reservation. Basically, it's about 500
square miles of desert the Army uses for exercises. It's very sandy, dotted
with 6 to 8 foot high dunes covered with mesquite. Great fun!

I've been riding since 1970, mostly street. Started out on a '67 Norton
Atlas. Owned a couple Norton Commandos after that, 750 and 850, while I
lived in England. I've ridden a succession of Jap street bikes since then
but quit riding on the street altogether about six years ago. In fact, for
about ten years, I never owned a car. I rode a bike year-round. I didn't
really start riding in the dirt until late 70's when I went to Motorcycle
Mechanics' Institute in Phoenix. Bought a basket-case Suzuki TM125 for my
wife to learn to ride on and rebuilt it from the crank up. I had so much
fun riding in the desert I bought a Yamaha MX125 so we could both ride.
Hurt myself (crash landed on concrete-like hardpack doing a wheelie) and
gave up two wheels for three until 96 when I bought my DR350SE. (I still
have the ATCs but only my wife rides hers now).

Originally, I thought I would use the DR more on the street. I rode it back
and forth to work off and on for the first year or so. At first, I was very
tentative in the desert. First day out I think I wiped out about five
times. But the more I rode, the more comfortable I became, and the better I
rode. Now, I rarely ride on the street except to get to the desert. I ride
nearly every weekend for a couple hours.

I've added the following to my DR:
IMS shark fin
Race-Tech cartridge emulators

I replaced:
stock tires with Pirelli MT21s (but will probably try the Metzeler Unicross
up front next time)
15 tooth countershaft sprocket with a 14
stock bars with some Renthals
stock front springs with some .46 kg/mm rate springs
I have a new Eibach shock spring in the garage waiting to be installed.

I removed:
turn signals
rear fender extension and sub-frame, and bolted license directly to fender
chain guard
passenger pegs
kickstand safety switch

I installed a rack and headlight guard initally but have since removed
them. (Anyone interested?) I think I've taken about fifteen pounds off the
bike so far. About the only thing I still want to change is maybe the
exhaust and definitely the gearing. I also have been meaning to install
some rim locks.

I've got about 7,000 miles on my bike. I like it a lot. I spend a lot of
time lurking in RMD and know that the DR is kinda' like the Rodney
Dangerfield of dirt bikes. I even looked at an XR last year. But I'm almost
fifty and for the kind of riding I do, the DR suits me well. I enjoy
maintaining it, too.

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request
Date: 07 Apr 1999 18:06:17 -0500 (CDT)

On 04/07/99 17:02:04 you wrote:
>
>Good Day All!
>
>Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell
>of the carb?  My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated
>slide).  I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an
>aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock
>exhaust.  I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot
>jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock.  The bike runs
>great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open.
> I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering
>the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it
>either runs a little rich or a little lean.
>Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit
>welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage"
>adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued
>extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished
>product.
>
>Has anyone played with the carb?
>
>Dan
>
>
>
>

Dan;  We have not had to change those air jets on the intake bell so am not
qualfied to comment on there function or the availabilty of different sizes.
We just took a 1000 mile trip into Baja on a 98 DR435SE with the thumper
racings recomended jetting and it run fine, except right off idle it may be
a little lean, but believe that can be adjusted with the fuel screw under
the little plug on the bottom in front of the slide. The only mods we made
were remove the airbox snorkle and the Thumper Racing 435cc kit with no mods
to the exhaust.  Their reccomended jetting is 127.5 main, 37.5 pilot,
jxneedle, jxspring.  We actually run a 132.5 main in Baja because of the
marginal gas, but it was plenty big.  Its possible your main is too large
and is causing it to 4 stroke on top.
When Welding the swing arm, build a tube spacer .125" longer than the width
of the wheel side spacers and brake mount, install the axel and tighten it
up just as if the wheel was there.  Then clamp it down to a heavy steel
welding table on at least the 4 corners and stand by with a wet towel to
cool the glued area when the welder gets close.  The inside plates are first
fit and spot welded in as many places as possible before the full length
welds are done.  Do not take the clamps off before the swing arm is
completly cool or uniformly the same temp. Hope this helps.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Darren Blin <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me
Date: 07 Apr 1999 19:21:52 -0400

Hey folks

This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle
license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the
backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the
age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at
buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with
people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my
feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your
stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my
height could inform me.

Set me straight please.

Darren Blin
Bikeless in Toronto Canada

1998 Size 10 Airwalks




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 14:53:29 -0700

George,

The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when
extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @
the rear axle.

Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our
pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece
of gold when I'm not looking.

John




George Kovacs <[e-mail]> on 04/07/99 10:23:13 AM

Please respond to George Kovacs <[e-mail]>

cc:   [e-mail] (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Hi Bryan.

I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but
you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a
goldwing or so.
As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it.
Front forks are the same ,
Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer
susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE.
SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury
riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it
......... Hart to get it going.
On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter
+ battery +lights, ......)
DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i
guess)
DR has a tall seat height 36.2"  if you shorter than 6' you will not be
able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35"
DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it
has some traction on the road.
As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know
if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket.
The engine should be the same.
Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!!
I have to ride on the street to  so i picked the SE . I like it.
I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions.

George













-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 18:18:25 -0700

Michael Terrian wrote:
>
> Scott:
>
> Enjoyed reading your message.
>
> You mentioned taking the "plug" out of the airbox. What "plug" are you
> referring to? My airbox had about a 2" circular opening in the top; no
> plug. I sawed the top of the air box out to within a half inch of its sides
> all around to let in a little more air. Is that what you did?

  Under the seat, in the top of the airbox is a rubber "plug" type
thing.  That's about as good as I can describe it.  I pulled it, and it
popped out.  This left a hole that is about 2 inches in diameter in the
top of the airbox.

  I contemplated cutting the entire top off, that's what I did for my
CR, and I think I will eventually.  I want to make sure that I can put
it back on for rain type riding (which I do a bit of).

A couple of other things I forgot to mention that I did to my bike:

*  I put on Works frame guards.  They look very nice, fit perfectly and
do the job of protecting the frame.

*  Put on the rear disk protector.  The one I put on is plastic and
looks like it will protect the disk from small rocks, but anything large
and it's history.

  I wanted to put on a front disk/fork guard, and I bought both the
Acerbis and Maier products that they listed as made for the '98 model,
but neither fit.  They were actually made for pre '98 models.  Has
anyone found a set that actually fit?

> I've got about 7,000 miles on my bike. I like it a lot. I spend a lot of
> time lurking in RMD and know that the DR is kinda' like the Rodney
> Dangerfield of dirt bikes. I even looked at an XR last year.

  <LOL>  Good one.  I know I spend a lot of time correcting the
misinformation that gets posted on RMD.  To tell the truth, I'm kind of
getting tired of it.

--
Scott



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:25:09 -0500

Hi John

I saw a DR and aDRse next to each other , that swing arm sure looked longer to me ,

George

[e-mail] wrote:

> George,
>
> The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when
> extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @
> the rear axle.
>
> Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our
> pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece
> of gold when I'm not looking.
>
> John
>
> George Kovacs <[e-mail]> on 04/07/99 10:23:13 AM
>
> Please respond to George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
>
> To:   Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
> cc:   [e-mail] (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
> Subject:  Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
>
> Hi Bryan.
>
> I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
> The bike will do 80MPH, and holds pretty steady as far as handling , but
> you must know that these bike are not designed for highway use. Like a
> goldwing or so.
> As far as difference between DR and DR-se yes lots of it.
> Front forks are the same ,
> Rear suspension , DR has a longer swing arm ,because of that has a longer
> susp. travel 11.2 vs.10' on the SE.
> SE has electric start ,a nice feature ( did you ever get a leg injury
> riding?) ,try to kick start after that. + cold start and after dumping it
> ......... Hart to get it going.
> On the other hand you will get less weight DR 249Lb --- SE 286Lb ( starter
> + battery +lights, ......)
> DR has a different carb TM33SS ---- SE has BST33 ( air pollution , i
> guess)
> DR has a tall seat height 36.2"  if you shorter than 6' you will not be
> able to put both feet to the groung at a traficlight. The SE is 35"
> DR has a more knobby tire like a dirt bike , the SE has semi knobby so it
> has some traction on the road.
> As far as trans , i was told that it is geared different, but i don't know
> if it is true. But i can tell that the DR has a larger rear sprocket.
> The engine should be the same.
> Oh Yes and the SE has lockable gas cap -----Sugar!!!!!
> I have to ride on the street to  so i picked the SE . I like it.
> I hope this will help to clear up some of your questions.
>
> George




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me
Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:47:50 -0500

Hi Darren,

I am 5'8  195Lb , i can put both feet down , but not all the way to the
heel. It feels ok.
Do not buy a Honda XR650, otherwise you will need a shoe extention.

George

Darren Blin wrote:

> Hey folks
>
> This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle
> license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the
> backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the
> age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at
> buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with
> people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my
> feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your
> stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my
> height could inform me.
>
> Set me straight please.
>
> Darren Blin
> Bikeless in Toronto Canada
>
> 1998 Size 10 Airwalks




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 07 Apr 1999 22:45:49 -0700

I've been lurking on this list in digest mode for a couple weeks now --
probably time I introduced myself.

I've owned a 92 DR350S for almost a year now.  I bought it to go to Moab
last year with Gino and all of his KLR/KLX friends.  Now that Gino's got a
DR, I feel vindicated (or something :-)

I had some fun with my DR in Moab and in Colorado, where I lived until late
summer, when I moved to Portland, Oregon.  I've had fun riding in the OHV
areas in some of Oregon's many state forests.  Coming from Colorado, I
didn't understand what people meant when they said "That tire packs mud"
until I moved to Oregon.  It rains here.

My DR has the top cut out of the stock airbox.  Someone was just asking
"What is the 'plug' you guys are talking about?" -- 'the plug' is a flexible
rubber 1 inch diameter pipe that goes down from the hole in the top of your
airbox about 2 inches... it sounds like yours is already removed.

I also have MT-21's front and back.  They don't do so well in the mud, but
they stick surprisingly well on the street, and do well off-road until it
rains.  However, I'm not getting much mileage out of the rear tire -- I need
some kind of new plan or new tire if I continue riding the highway to get to
the forest...

I have Acerbis lever/hand guards and the White Brothers "bouncy rear turn
signal" mounts, and, like so many of you, the rear sub-fender has been
removed.  Otherwise the bike is stock.

I was really happy with the DR until I rode a friend's tricked out XR400...
but his suspension was expensively modified, so I'll have to try some stuff
on the DR.

I do like what I've seen so far on the list, and I like Kurt's plan to put
"NDR:" in the subject of off-topic posts.

If you're in the Seattle area, try subscribing to the "WetDirt" mailing list
for rides and general dirt-biking discussion (ask me for instructions).
It's supposed to be Pacific-Northwest, but it ends up being pretty
Seattle-centric.

If you're going riding around Portland, let me know :-)

Brian
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Finally found one!
Date: 08 Apr 1999 04:58:17 PDT

Hallelujah!!!  I finally found a used DR!  Its a '95 SE w/ 3K miles, 1
owner, in what "sounds" to be very good condition.  Owner says he has
receipt showing the initial valve adj. was done by dealer.  I've
wrestled w/ myself over this issue (and nearly kicked my own ass in
process!) of whether to buy new or used.....thought I'd have to go new
because I just couldn't find any used DRs around.  I'm gonna have to
drive 6 hrs to get this baby, but at $2400, its exactly HALF of the
out-the-door price of a new 99 SE.  With the lower initial investment,
I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling
guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper
big-bore kit!

FWIW...Yesterday I sent a fax to the 7 Suzuki dealers in the
Dallas/Ft. Worth area, stating that I had cash & wanted to buy a used
DR350 (dirt or dual sport), and would consider buying a new one if the
price was right.  3 of the 7 called me back w/ nobody having any used
ones (none could even remember having any used DRs recently), and the
best out the door price (including 6.25 tax & all BS fees) for a new
99 SE was $4751.  One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost
on the 99 SE was $4006.

Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
making my list!  I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
 -which is largest capacity?

Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I
should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow?

Take care-
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR-SE (just a day away!)
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K, perfect cond)


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request
Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:03:16 EDT

In a message dated 4/7/99 4:52:32 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swing arm - I can have the
unit
 welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage"
 adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued
 extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished
 product. >>


Your best bet is to let Thumper Racing handle that chore.  They do a great
job and they even polish it all up nice n' perty.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me
Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:13:44 EDT

I ride a 96 DR350 which sets a little taller than the SE version (I am 5'
10'') and find it to be very comfortable. If for some reason you find the
bike to be a little tall you can install Kouba links to lower (or raise) the
ride height.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dennis Lever" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR350 Mods
Date: 08 Apr 1999 09:04:43 -0400

Hi,

I bought my 95 DR350SE in Sept of 97 for $3800 Cdn or about $2500 US.  It
had 8000 miles but most was road, so it was in pretty good shape.  As it is
the first bike I have owned with electric start, I was very nervous.  All my
others have been pure off-road kickstart.
The battery was weak so it was one of the first changes.  I have not had a
problem with the "E", but I'm still nervous.
I cut the top off the airbox to see if that would help the power.  I didn't
want to spend all that money on the CycleGear box.  The engine was real
lean, even before this, so I changed the main jet from 127 to 132.5 The
manual said stock was 135 but I know the previous owner never changed it.  I
also raised the needle as high as it would go.  It's a lot better now.
I changed the gearing from 15/41 to 14/43.  I set up a spreadsheet to
determine the ratios so that at about 5000 rpm I would be doing about 50
mph.  I wanted to make sure that it was low as about 50% of my riding is on
single track in the woods.  I also think this is the same as the dirt only
DR.
I also removed all the extras, mud flap, passenger pegs etc.  I put the
plate directly on the fender.
280 plus pounds was more than I wanted to put up on a stand, so I made up a
lift from a 2-1/4 ton hydraulic floor jack on wheels that I bought new for
~$20.  This is a lot more stable than it sounds.  I just glued 3 pieces of
3/4"x12"x14" plywood pieces together and attached them with a carriage bolt.
It was fairly easy and now I can get the bike off both wheels just holding
the handlebar and pumping the jack.  It actually gets more stable as you
raise it higher.  You just have to remember to hold the handlebar when you
lower it back down or lookout!
The other thing that made me nervous was having to use a key, so I cut a
piece of double sided velcro down the middle so that it was only about 1/4"
wide.  I put it through the key and tied a knot.  The loose ends are joined
around the crossbar when riding but come off easy to leave or add gas.
The only things that I keep a close eye on are the bolts holding the forks
in the triple clamps.  For some odd reason they seem to loosen up whenever I
ride is sandy conditions.  Has anybody else seen this?  I haven't tried
locktite yet.
Spring has arrived here so soon....

Dennis
Guelph Ontario
Canada




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one!
Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:44:46 -0600


-----Original Message-----


>Hallelujah!!!  I finally found a used DR!

Good for you!

>Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
>making my list!  I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
>CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
> -which is largest capacity?

I think both the Acerbis and the Clarke are 4.25 gallons and the IMS is 4.0


I have all three tanks scanned.  If anyone wants to see them let me know.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch
Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:07:39 -0600

Bryant:


Bryant Wang wrote:
> You removed your kick stand switch, huh? I was thinking of doing
> that my self. Did you just remove the switch and wires up to the
> harness altogether or did you have to make a jumper connection or
> something?

I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months)
anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector.
I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab
on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did
where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly
obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Dennis Lever" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) kick stand switch
Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:26:50 -0400

I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

I did this too, but make sure you solder the wires.  It is an interlock and
if any corrosion or dirt gets in, the bike won't start.

Dennis




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: kick stand switch
Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:33:45 -0700

Michael Terrian wrote:

> I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6 months)
> anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness connector.
> I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the tab
> on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did
> where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly
> obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind the
> connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

  What about the clutch switch?  Anybody else remove that one?  I
couldn't stand having to hold the clutch in whenever I went to start it,
so I soldered that one together.  Now I can use the starter if I want
the bike to crawl up a hill :-)  (No, I haven't done that...).

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Finally found one!
Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:53:58 -0600

>out-the-door price of a new 99 SE.  With the lower initial investment,
>I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling
>guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper
>big-bore kit!


I was in the same dilemma especially because of the cartridge forks on the '98-'99...I feel a
lot better after Bob Bell told me he'll put a cartridge fork in my '97 for under $500..

>99 SE was $4751.  One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost
>on the 99 SE was $4006.

That is true...I paid $10 to find out...
>
>Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
>making my list!

Not much there yet but give us a year and it'll be full of pearls and gems...we need people to
not be bashful and share some of there experiences so that the list can build up its own base
of knowledge...and then go beyond...

 I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
>CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
> -which is largest capacity?


I bought the Acerbis from Fred Hink and so did Gino...we were both following the advice of
Eldon Carl who rights lovingly abut the DR350S in Dual Sport News...

>Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I
>should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow?


none...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 08 Apr 1999 07:53:11 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> George,
>
> The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when
> extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @
> the rear axle.
>
> Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like our
> pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that piece
> of gold when I'm not looking.
>
> John

Hiya John!  Imagine meeting you here :-)

  So why are you comparing the electric start to carbs?  Are you saying
that the electric start models can't have the carb changed to a pumper
type?

  BTW, excuse my ignorance but what is a pumper carb?  I've heard of
slide carbs and Constant Velocity (which the DRSE has), but not a pumper
carb.

  sTeVe recommnded going with the WB carb kit and Cycle Gear air box
before he turned into a DR hater :-)

  Ya know, they say ex-smokers are a smokers worst nightmare, I wonder
if that applies to ex-DR owners also...

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Gear Calc...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 08:57:21 -0600

Anyone wanting to really calculate the effect of a gear change would be wise to download Pat
Hensley's GearCalc program from

www.ironjungle.com

Pat drives a KLR and is a great enthusiast...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) NDR...examples...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 09:01:02 -0600

A follow-up on my request for NDR in the subject line and how filters work...my morning mail
contained  143 messages. Only 4 ended up in my inbox. The rest were sorted into: GS - 19
messages....Majordomo - 34 messages...NKLR....20 messages...KLR...39 messages. and the rest in
DR...

The KLR list received 59 messages from last night until this morning...for those using NKLR as
a filter...they only saw 39.

Please use NDR....

Kurt

Keep spreading the word we're about to go over 100 subscribers...thanks




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:31:24 -0500

Damn, my '94 DRSE? will no longer do the trick.  I gotta have one of them
there SEX ones!


-----Original Message-----


>
>> > I Just got a 99 DR350SEX , what the X stands for , i don't know.
>
>Oh, I thought it was a clever advertising ploy - a DR350 "SEX" ;)
>
>Susan
>
> (This post represents my opinion and not that of JPL.)
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Xmlistadmin...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 11:00:38 -0600

For those who may be receiving messages from [e-mail] I would like to alert you
to how to unsubscribe. You may be on this list because of erroneous subscription info for DR350
or KLR650.

To unsubscribe from [e-mail] send a message from the email account you are
subscribed with to:

[e-mail]

Leave the subject blank.

In the body type

unsubscribe xmlistadmin

Sorry for the inconvenience...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 12:05:37 -0500 (CDT)


On 03/19/99 08:26:58 you wrote:
>
>Norm, I'm hoping you read this...we had a lister on an affilitated list,
i.e., DUST
>asking about your Kouba Links. Can you give a summary of why you developed
them and
>what they can and can't accomplish?
>
Kurt


In the begining we tried many different shim stacks, shock oils, and spring
rates, nothing gave us the results we were looking for.  Those results
being, plush on the small bumps, firm up on the mogals, and most of all
minimize that dreaded sidways kick caused by violent bottoming of the rear
when traveling at excessive speeds of over 25mph on dirt.

In stock form, and the sag being set at 3.9", the rocker angle is almost
perpendicular to the pivot point, thus riding in the most progressive part
of the arc and causing harshness on small bumps and bottoming on larger
ones, as when the rocker continues over center, progression gets less and
less the farther the suspension compresses. Then bang, it reaches the stop
on the shock, and over the bars we go as the stop has no sign of rebound
control.

To address these traits, we had to either change the configuration of the
rocker, the links, or the pivot points.  The simplest and least costly being
changing the working length of the links. (Sometimes referred to as "Dog
Bones") After building and trying many different lengths, we settled on one
size for most riders, but we build 3 different lengths for specific
conditions and or riding styles.  Most riders over 175lbs will require a
heavier spring unless improved twotrac is in the majority of the riding.

The longer links give a much plusher ride everywhere, increases usable
travel, all but eliminates the rear kick, and only lowers the seat height
when the swingarm is fully extended making getting on and off easier, not to
mention it will no longer highside over the sidestand when you dismount. The
laden seat height will remain the same when the reccomened sag of 2.5" is
used.

If the links are used for lowering purposes only, the sag can be set at 3.9"
if the front is lowered by 1.25" to stay close to the stock geometry.

The links will fit 90 thru 99 Suzuki DR350 and DR350SE model bikes ONLY.

The down side of the links is in the mogals, fall of plain and this 300lb
motorcycle is going to hurt you.  The upside is without the links most
riders cannot get on plain. The facts are, these links are the best single
improvement we have made to the DR to date but are not perfect for all
conditions and riders. Another downside is under full compression, ground
clearance is 1.5" less. (Easier to case it.)

Now that I have told everyone how they work here comes the pitch.  We give a
30 day money back return policy and to date only one customer returned the
links. He said they were not compatable for his 260lb superstructure. The
links are hand machined out of 6061 T6 aluminium and have not experienced a
failure to date.  For those of you who want to motorcross your DR we cannot
help, but for those who ride Enduros or Baja type riding these links are a
must, your backside will thank you everynight.

Many thanks to Kurt Simpson, who started the dr350 list and has put
countless hrs
into its inception. Thanks  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
HTTP://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
Phone [phone]








-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Introduction
Date: 08 Apr 1999 10:11:24 -0700

Hello all,

I was certainly happy to find this list yesterday (thanks John).  I've owned
two DRs now, and continue to believe that they are great trail bikes.

My first was a '97 DR350SE that I bought new.  The suspension mods I did
were:

- Racetech cartridge fork emulators
- .46 kg/mm front springs
- Kouba links on the rear
- 7.6 kg/mm rear spring (I'm about 210 lbs)

These four things really brought the suspension a long way.  They would
definitely be the first things I'd do to a DR, especially w/ the damping rod
forks.

I ended up only riding this bike in the dirt, so I sold it and bought a '96
DR441.  The previous owner had made these mods:

- WB did the 441 modification
- His dealer installed the Suzuki Hi-Po cam
- FMF Megamax exhaust
- Racetech re-valved both the forks and the shock, installing Gold Valves
front and rear
- Protapers w/ billet triple clamp
- Lightened the rear end by removing a lot of the metal structure and
installing an RM fender

I've made these mods:

- Installed a mtn bike computer (based on the instructions at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm.  Instead of the KDX
method shown, I drilled a small hole in the rotor and installed rare-earth
magnets in that -- ended up being a pretty clean installation.)
- Stronger clutch springs
- Went from the stock 127.5 main jet to 137.5 so far -- it's still not too
rich


Now I'd like to:

- Install a Scotts Steering Stablizer
- Get the jetting dialed in (love that pumper -- great *snap*!!)
- Revalve the front and rear suspension (I weigh ~40 lbs more than the
previous owner.)
- Install a Jagg oil cooler.


Questions that I have:

- Has anyone installed a Scotts SS with Protapers?
- Has anyone installed a Jagg?

On the latter, I've looked at the instructions, and its definitely a
kludge.  Any help here would be greatly appreciated!

I'm in the Sacramento, CA area, and generally ride Georgetown, Foresthill,
Mammoth Bar, and Hollister.  And I'm definitely open to road trips!

Regards,
Bryan Cowger
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jack Alexander" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 11:04:39 -0700

Thanks Norm for explaining what happens with the links.

I have a set of Kouba links.  I like them.  I put them on right before a two
week trip to Baja and thought they made a big difference.  Especially late
in the trip when my shock was toast.

I am still playing with ride height and sag.  In the deep sand in Baja - I
left the front up and left the sag at 4".  It helped with stability,
especially since I suck in riding deep sand.  Now I have dropped the front
and have the sag set at 2.5 - 3 inches (I have to look - it is written on my
side panel - I am still experimenting).

I am 5'6" and initially bought the links so I could touch on one side or the
other.  With the reduced seat height I can touch on both sides and paddle
when I have to.  Dropping the ride height helped me save some tip overs in
the rocks.  I drug the cases more in deep ruts and in big rocks.  But
dragging the cases is not a big deal when going slow when you can stick out
a foot to save it.

Since Norm decided to back his links with a guarantee it seems like a no
brainer.  They are cheap and improved my DR.  I installed my in 20 minutes
or less and fooled with other stuff while I was at it.

Disclaimer - I only know Norm as a happy customer - his level of personal
service is great.  I have a hand-written set of setup instructions.
Hopefully he has his instructions on the computer now so he can spend that
time riding.  He has also followed up with phone and email help.



jack




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Park City Motorcycle Week...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 15:43:47 -0600

As some of you know the Steamboat Springs Motorcycle week is history...the event will now take
place in my home state in beautiful Park City. Check out this website for info.

http://www.parkcitymotorcycle.org/PCMC%20Week.html

Let me know if anyone is interested in developing a Dual Sport Rally in conjunction with the
event.

Kurt Simpson
Salt Lake City




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Park City Motorcycle Week...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 15:51:01 -0600

I'm going.  My neighbor and I were just discussing what we were going to do
for a road trip this year and this is it.  Maybe I'll have my SV650 by then,
I hope, I hope, I hope...

Gino, anyone have any good lottery numbers or lines on a race horse, Pokluda



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: (klr650) Park City Motorcycle Week...
Date: 08 Apr 1999 16:10:43 -0600

>for a road trip this year and this is it.  Maybe I'll have my SV650 by then,
>I hope, I hope, I hope...


Ohhh Frankie must be quite a lady...quite a lady...I think you better save your money and buy a
Hawk instead...it is prettier anyway..

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Introduction..NDR
Date: 08 Apr 1999 16:15:53 -0600

One thing I would like to add is that all words typed should be acceptable
to all ages & not turn this into an "R" rated list like the KLR list is.
Happy trails
Tim
-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>
>>  Sounds good.  I don't what's allowed or discouraged for posting to
>>this medium, so I'll go ahead and post this and see if I get flamed for
>>doing it:
>
>I want to run this list the same way we run the KLR list.
>
>We encourage all listers to use the regular subscription as opposed to the
digest version
>because you have much more control in the regular subscription....most
especially the use of
>"filters" in your email program. In order for the filters to do any good we
need posters to be
>courteous and acknowledge that some folks are on the list only because of a
narrow interest in
>DR350 specific info. They have no need for "affinity"...the compromise is
this. All posts that
>are not DR specific..and I do mean specific should have NDR in the subject
line...it can only
>be NDR and it stands for No DR content. It must be NDR because it allows a
person to set a
>filter on all posts with NDR in the subject line and route them to a
special folder or,
>alternatively, to trash them so that it is as if they never saw the post at
all.
>
>This works folks if we just exercise discipline. It makes for a lot of
peace and a friendly
>place to be. Notice I have NDR in my subject line. Given this courtesy
there are only two rules
>which I feel strongly about...
>
>1. No personal insults or diatribes
>
>2. No discussion of issues which become controversial...there are forums
for gun control,
>wilderness values, religion, etc.
>
>I'd like this to be a friendly place to be...kinda of like dropping in at
Fred Hink's garage
>shop and kicking the tires, laughing, and talking as the world spins
by...mostly about bikes
>but sometimes who knows...last night we had a long discussion about bears
on the KLR list and I
>thought it was a riot...scared me half to death because I'm going to ride
in bear country this
>year....
>
>Thanks for the bandwidth,
>
>Kurt
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (dR350) Carb Info Request
Date: 08 Apr 1999 17:25:51 -0700

Dan,

I cannot help w/your carb situation (mine is a pumper) but certainly *do not*
have your swing arm braced. I did mine twice; once inside, then the second time
on the outside, both with some improvement but with resultant warpage - beware:
it is not worth the trouble/risk.

I suppose you want to eliminate the DR "bucking bronco" effect. If so then get
the Kouba links - they eliminated the side hopping for me.

John




Dan Schewe <[e-mail]> on 04/07/99 03:02:04 PM

Please respond to Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Good Day All!

Has anyone messed around with the two air jets located on the intake bell
of the carb?  My DR is the '94 SE model with the BST33? (vacuum actuated
slide).  I'm wondering if those jets should be changed only if an
aftermarket pipe is added or big-bore is added, I'm running the stock
exhaust.  I'm running the XJ needle and spring, main jet 137.5, and a pilot
jet of (can't remember), but its one size bigger than stock.  The bike runs
great up to 3/4 throttle, but it tends to miss when cracked wide open.
 I've tried to richen the main to a 140 and have tried raising and lowering
the needle with both the 137.5 and 140 mains, but can't get it perfect - it
either runs a little rich or a little lean.
Has anyone seen how they brace the DR's rear swingarm - I can have the unit
welded at my workplace, but I'm curious how they protect the "spaceage"
adhesive used between the rough aluminum casting and the bolted / glued
extension arms from the heat, and to minimize warpage if the finished
product.

Has anyone played with the carb?

Dan











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Intro & questions {was: (dr350) to all you electric people
Date: 08 Apr 1999 17:58:32 -0700

Hey ya Scotty! Glad to see you made the list.

You can buy a pumper carb for the DRS(e) but they are $300+, and you will need
the dirt manifold and air box boot, maybe even the throttle housing. I think
Stroker has a kit for the DRS; White Bros. does.

There was a DR dude (George Kovacs <[e-mail]>) who earlier listed the
diff. bet. the dirt & street. *My* comment was the pumper that came with the
dirt vers. performs better than the DS CV unit, in that it does not rely on
engine vacuum to pull the slide up (the cable does it all, hence a quicker
response) and has a small pipe and pump which squirts gas into the airstream
when the throttle is cracked (prevents the four-stroke hickup, common to XRs and
the like).

Yep; sTeVe pretty much left the fold, but each to his own. At least he did not
go full red (XR400). BTW, I finally rode one, and it does feel better than a
stock DR in the suspension department, is slimmer, and does turn better but all
in all not much better than the stock DR. I actually think the DR has a better
motor down low, wheras the XR will pull higher, longer.

Now my DR(MX)441 is a different story altogether. The XR owner just shook his
head in disbelief after riding it, saying "that's a DR?" The rush sensation when
whacking the throttle caught him off guard.

John





Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]> on 04/08/99 07:53:11 AM

cc:   [e-mail]




[e-mail] wrote:
>
> George,
>
> The swingarms are the same; the shocks: different, not in o/a length when
> extended but when compressed - the dirt version gains 1" net greater travel @
> the rear axle.
>
> Us non-elect., dirt-only folks will let you gladly keep your button; we like
our
> pumper carbs. I have to keep an eye on my DRS buds so they don't take that
piece
> of gold when I'm not looking.
>
> John

Hiya John!  Imagine meeting you here :-)

  So why are you comparing the electric start to carbs?  Are you saying
that the electric start models can't have the carb changed to a pumper
type?

  BTW, excuse my ignorance but what is a pumper carb?  I've heard of
slide carbs and Constant Velocity (which the DRSE has), but not a pumper
carb.

  sTeVe recommnded going with the WB carb kit and Cycle Gear air box
before he turned into a DR hater :-)

  Ya know, they say ex-smokers are a smokers worst nightmare, I wonder
if that applies to ex-DR owners also...

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) DR350 center stand
Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:39:54 -0700

I have one of Dual Star's stainless racks and love it.  Once Mike Walburn
and I strapped a chainsaw to it on a trail clearing ride for his event, the
Tarmac To Timberline, a killer dualsport event the weekend after September
in WA state.
See photos of past year's rides at
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html.

I'm new to the list.  I ride a 94 DR350SE that I bought new in May 1994.
 So far it has 10,400 miles on the ticker.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) new to list (Re:)
Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:43:46 -0700

I have been running the Pirelli MT-21 on the front and rear, as do all of
the people I ride with in WA state.  I can usually get 2000-2500 miles on
it.  More agressive riders get less mileage out of them.  This year I am
going to try a different front at the recommendation of Mike Walburn - a
Dunlop K139.  (He runs it on the front and a MT-21 on the rear of his KTM)

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Wednesday, April 07, 1999 2:28 PM

[e-mail] ("Lees, John W") wrote:

> Hello I am new to the list.  I have a ' 93 DR 350 S I just bought.  My
> question is what is the best value in tires for that bike as I will do
> more street than trail; The guy I purchased it from had "full on
> nobies" on it, I know on the street it will not last long.
>
> It is quite a mixed bag on the opinion of the guy's selling tires
> around here (Portland, or.)  .  I also noticed that most tires (dual
> sport are 80/20 or 20/80 (street/dirt) .  Is there a 70/30 or a 60/40
> ?  Any input to this post will be appreciated.  .  .
> Please help.

  That's because there really is no such thing as a Dual Sport tire.
If the tire is good on the road, meaning long lasting and offers good
traction, then it's a piece in the dirt.  The stock tires for the '98
that I bought worked great on the street, but they were scary in the
dirt.

  There was a significant noticeable difference in dirt riding, even
just fire roads, when I put on knobbies.  If you haven't ridden dirt
with full knobbies, then you won't understand the difference.

  If you're going to do any dirt riding, then the best tire is
probably the Pirelli MT-21.  People report getting over 2000 miles on
them, and that's about as good as you're going to get for a good dirt
tire.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me
Date: 07 Apr 1999 20:53:32 -0700

I am 5'9" and both feet touch the ground with the stock suspension.
What few other new model dual sport bikes are still on the market, most of
them I can't touch the ground with both feet, or if I can, just barely.
 That's one reason I am still riding my DR.  I would really like a new
bike, but they are all too tall for my liking.

Doug
Tacoma, WA

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Wednesday, April 07, 1999 4:22 PM

Hey folks

This mailing list is a godsend! I have recently obtained my motorcycle
license after a long absence of not riding (I used to put around the
backwoods in 68 Yamaha mini-enduro when I was a young lad). Now, at the
age of thirty, having never owned a vehicle of any type, I am looking at
buying a DR350SE. My question is this: How comfortable is this bike with
people around my height (5'8")? Will I be on my tip-toes when I put my
feet out? How much can you adjust the "pre-load" to accommodate your
stature? Maybe some DR350SE bike owners out there who are around my
height could inform me.

Set me straight please.

Darren Blin
Bikeless in Toronto Canada

1998 Size 10 Airwalks





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Finally found one!
Date: 08 Apr 1999 18:34:01 -0700

I like my Clarke tank.  The Acerbis tank is vey ugly and hangs down too far
in my opinion.  Most of the DR riders I encounter at dualsport events that
have a larger tank use the Clarke.  I think I've probably only seen one or
two Acerbis tanks.  I've heard that IMS tanks are not easy to get on the
bike - fit issues.
My Clarke tank bolted right up.

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, April 08, 1999 4:58 AM

Hallelujah!!!  I finally found a used DR!  Its a '95 SE w/ 3K miles, 1
owner, in what "sounds" to be very good condition.  Owner says he has
receipt showing the initial valve adj. was done by dealer.  I've
wrestled w/ myself over this issue (and nearly kicked my own ass in
process!) of whether to buy new or used.....thought I'd have to go new
because I just couldn't find any used DRs around.  I'm gonna have to
drive 6 hrs to get this baby, but at $2400, its exactly HALF of the
out-the-door price of a new 99 SE.  With the lower initial investment,
I figure I will be able to put alot more goodies on it without feeling
guilty about blowing more $ (wife factor)...maybe even a Thumper
big-bore kit!

FWIW...Yesterday I sent a fax to the 7 Suzuki dealers in the
Dallas/Ft. Worth area, stating that I had cash & wanted to buy a used
DR350 (dirt or dual sport), and would consider buying a new one if the
price was right.  3 of the 7 called me back w/ nobody having any used
ones (none could even remember having any used DRs recently), and the
best out the door price (including 6.25 tax & all BS fees) for a new
99 SE was $4751.  One seemingly honest dealer told me his invoice cost
on the 99 SE was $4006.

Now, I'm off to read the archives about aftermarket goodies to start
making my list!  I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
 -which is largest capacity?

Finally, anyone know of any particular quirks on the 95 SE's that I
should pay special attention to when I go to see the bike tomorrow?

Take care-
Bryan in Dallas
95 DR-SE (just a day away!)
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K, perfect cond)


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Highland 950
Date: 08 Apr 1999 22:14:12 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BE820D.21F14BC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Listers:  Thought you'd be interested in this: =20
   =20
    -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
    Fr=E5n: Tom Warr <[e-mail]>
    Till: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
    Datum: den 24 mars 1999 02:47
    =C4mne: The Highland 950
   =20
   =20
    This is a very interesting bike!  Is there a dealer in the US?  Can =
one attatch panniers?  Is a larger tank or fairing available?  I would =
be interested in using it for dual sport touring.
    =20
    Thanks very much!
   =20
    Tom Warr   Bikermaniac
    Great Falls, Montana
    [e-mail]

Hello Tom,
thanks for your E-mail. We don't have any dealers in the U.S. yet, but =
we're working on it. Hopefully by the end of this year we'll have some =
more information to give you regarding dealers. Yes, you can attatch =
panniers. We will make a larger fairing like the KTM Adventure.
Best regards=20
Sweden Highland Motors AB (publ)
=20


------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BE820D.21F14BC0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#fffff0>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Listers:  Thought you'd be interested in =
this: =20
    </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B></B></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Ursprungligt=20
    meddelande-----</B><BR><B>Från: </B>Tom Warr <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><BR><B>Till:=
=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>=20
    <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A>><B=
R><B>Datum:=20
    </B>den 24 mars 1999 02:47<BR><B>Ämne: </B>The Highland=20
    950<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is a very interesting =
bike!  Is=20
    there a dealer in the US?  Can one attatch panniers?  Is a =
larger=20
    tank or fairing available?  I would be interested in using it =
for dual=20
    sport touring.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks very much!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Tom Warr   =
Bikermaniac<BR>Great=20
    Falls, Montana<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A></FONT></DIV></B=
LOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello Tom,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
face=3DArial size=3D2>thanks=20
for your E-mail. We don't have any dealers in the U.S. yet, but we're =
working on=20
it. Hopefully by the end of this year we'll have some more information =
to give=20
you regarding dealers. Yes, you can attatch panniers. We will make a =
larger=20
fairing like the KTM Adventure.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Best regards</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sweden Highland Motors AB =
(publ)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00AD_01BE820D.21F14BC0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Many Tanks, Doug, Bryan
Date: 09 Apr 1999 06:58:13 -0700

Doug,

I have the IMS tank, and it has ~ the same width as the stocker; the Acerbis one
is just too big! You are correct in that the IMS take some work. It is
compounded in my situation as I have RMX forks - had to scoot the tank rearward
5/8" w/ new brackets, and one side still comes in contact; may have to weld a
bead on the clamp or frame stop tab.

John

>I like my Clarke tank.  The Acerbis tank is vey ugly and hangs down too far
>in my opinion.  Most of the DR riders I encounter at dualsport events that
>have a larger tank use the Clarke.  I think I've probably only seen one or
>two Acerbis tanks.  I've heard that IMS tanks are not easy to get on the
>bike - fit issues.
>My Clarke tank bolted right up.


>> I know there's alot of talk over which tank (IMS,
>>CLark, Acerbis) is best....anyone want to make a recommendation here?
>> -which is largest capacity?







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) swingarm 350, Dan
Date: 09 Apr 1999 12:04:48 EDT

Question for you Dan...

I was hoping to brace the INSIDE of the DR swingarm...hoping to help all the
chassis flex going on in hardpack ruts and whoops... but have not heard of
bracing the outside???  Could it have warped when you did the outside
bracing? Can you tell us more about the mod?  Also does anybody sell the
precut brace for the inside of the arm? (Thumper Racing will not)
Thanks... Guy @ Comobu.aol




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) swingarm 350, Dan
Date: 09 Apr 1999 10:30:26 -0700

Gladly. The idea came from the various articles in the rags; they referred to
Thumper & Cycle Gear. To save the $ I had the inside bracing done first by
making up my own templates from cardboard. A riding bud cut the material (0.90"
alum.) & welded it in. Warpage was not a problem.

The back end seemed a little more stable in the whoops, but side kicking
continued. I had the shock revalved, and yet the swapping continued.

The idea to do the outer surface came from Chris Hanes' DR catalog (Baja Off
Road Products - he holds the rights to the DR Baja saddle; the long, tall one).
He does Baja (Mexico) tours and used to use DRs; has since gotten out of the
accessories/mods business - too bad because his catalog had lots of DR-specific
stuff - now he does the tours *only* on KLXs.

Templates were made for this second go around for the outside where the forward
section mates to the rear; the thing warped outward but was still usable, ugly
and certainly a conversation piece. (Chris' welds looked much more professional)
No one dared ride close to me afterwards; could have been they thought it would
self-destruct, inflicting damage on anything close or that I was a bike
abuser/breaker of some sort. Rob King (Canadian RMDer) bought it from me, and I
picked up a replacement off a parting out DRS.

To summarize, don't bother messing w/ your swing arm, even if you do a good job;
it is not worth it. The Kouba link is a much more effective answer whereas the
bracing adds little benefit; the side hop went away by using his link. This is
not an endorsement (I paid full price), but the experience of a satisfied
customer.

One last thing: I sold the links because they did not allow for a matched ride
height, front & back, for subsequently installed RMX forks & shock. But that's
another story.

John



[e-mail] on 04/09/99 09:04:48 AM

Please respond to [e-mail]

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Question for you Dan...

I was hoping to brace the INSIDE of the DR swingarm...hoping to help all the
chassis flex going on in hardpack ruts and whoops... but have not heard of
bracing the outside???  Could it have warped when you did the outside
bracing? Can you tell us more about the mod?  Also does anybody sell the
precut brace for the inside of the arm? (Thumper Racing will not)
Thanks... Guy @ Comobu.aol














-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dan Schewe <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) swingarm 350, Dan
Date: 09 Apr 1999 13:24:23 -0500

Norm:
I'm almost sold on buying a set of your links, but what do you mean when
you said in your Kouba Link description, "to get the bike on plane" - new
termanology.  Lastly, John noted that with the Kouba Links, the bike didn't
have a matched ride height.  Would different fork springs or position in
the tripple clamps make a difference here?

Dan

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, April 09, 1999 12:30 PM

Gladly. The idea came from the various articles in the rags; they referred
to
Thumper & Cycle Gear. To save the $ I had the inside bracing done first by
making up my own templates from cardboard. A riding bud cut the material
(0.90"
alum.) & welded it in. Warpage was not a problem.

The back end seemed a little more stable in the whoops, but side kicking
continued. I had the shock revalved, and yet the swapping continued.

The idea to do the outer surface came from Chris Hanes' DR catalog (Baja
Off
Road Products - he holds the rights to the DR Baja saddle; the long, tall
one).
He does Baja (Mexico) tours and used to use DRs; has since gotten out of
the
accessories/mods business - too bad because his catalog had lots of
DR-specific
stuff - now he does the tours *only* on KLXs.

Templates were made for this second go around for the outside where the
forward
section mates to the rear; the thing warped outward but was still usable,
ugly
and certainly a conversation piece. (Chris' welds looked much more
professional)
No one dared ride close to me afterwards; could have been they thought it
would
self-destruct, inflicting damage on anything close or that I was a bike
abuser/breaker of some sort. Rob King (Canadian RMDer) bought it from me,
and I
picked up a replacement off a parting out DRS.

To summarize, don't bother messing w/ your swing arm, even if you do a good
job;
it is not worth it. The Kouba link is a much more effective answer whereas
the
bracing adds little benefit; the side hop went away by using his link. This
is
not an endorsement (I paid full price), but the experience of a satisfied
customer.

One last thing: I sold the links because they did not allow for a matched
ride
height, front & back, for subsequently installed RMX forks & shock. But
that's
another story.

John



[e-mail] on 04/09/99 09:04:48 AM

Please respond to [e-mail]

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Question for you Dan...

I was hoping to brace the INSIDE of the DR swingarm...hoping to help all
the
chassis flex going on in hardpack ruts and whoops... but have not heard of
bracing the outside???  Could it have warped when you did the outside
bracing? Can you tell us more about the mod?  Also does anybody sell the
precut brace for the inside of the arm? (Thumper Racing will not)
Thanks... Guy @ Comobu.aol















-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Kouba Link
Date: 09 Apr 1999 11:31:08 -0700

Dan,

The ride height became slightly off for me but only after I swapped out the
stock DR suspension for ones off of an RMX; the shock is longer as are the
forks. I was able to achieve a balance, front to back, after returning to the
stock OEM links. I could have stayed with the Kouba link and the RMX shock/forks
by having the fork travel shortened a fraction, but wanted to take full
advantage of the extra available travel, being here in the south (Pacific) west
(desert).

In conclusion, you will not have to be concerned so long as you use DR
components, although Norm may have some experience beyond that.

John



>Norm:
>I'm almost sold on buying a set of your links, but what do you mean when
>you said in your Kouba Link description, "to get the bike on plane" - new
>termanology.  Lastly, John noted that with the Kouba Links, the bike didn't
>have a matched ride height.  Would different fork springs or position in
>the tripple clamps make a difference here?

>Dan









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: RE: (dr350) swingarm 350, Dan
Date: 09 Apr 1999 16:43:05 -0500 (CDT)

On 04/09/99 13:24:23 you wrote:
>
>Norm:
>I'm almost sold on buying a set of your links, but what do you mean when
>you said in your Kouba Link description, "to get the bike on plane" - new
>termanology.  Lastly, John noted that with the Kouba Links, the bike didn't
>have a matched ride height.  Would different fork springs or position in
>the tripple clamps make a difference here?
>
>Dan


Dan:  John installed RMX front forks and  rear shock on his DR after he had
used the new links in conjunction with the stock DR Suspension.  The RMX
forks and shock are of different lengths than the stock DR's, and he had
some problems in the match up as far as I know.  The links will not effect
the Geometry of a stock suspended DR if the sag is set at 2.5" to 3".  Being
on plane in the whoops means when your going fast enough just to hit the
tops, falling off plane means when your only going fast enough just to hit
the bottoms. sixtys terminology, sorry.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) RE:clutch switch
Date: 09 Apr 1999 22:02:15 -0700

Yes, I have removed the clutch interlock. I removed the headlight shroud,
then pulled the wire from the clutch lever all the way to the wire bundle
above the headlight, seems like there was a connector in the mess of wires,
I pulled the clutch wire off and then connected the connectors back
together, bypassing the clutch switch. - no soldereing or splices of wires
were required.


Doug B
Tacoma, WA

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, April 08, 1999 7:34 AM

Michael Terrian wrote:

> I guess I'm starting to lose it; I can't remember that far back (6
months)
> anymore. I know I removed the switch and wires up to the harness
connector.
> I even sawed off the bracket on the frame that held the switch and the
tab
> on the kickstand that actuated it. I can't remember exactly what I did
> where the wires ended but I do remember that the solution was fairly
> obvious. I'm pretty sure all I had to do was cut the wires right behind
the
> connector (near the horn) and wrap and tape them together.

  What about the clutch switch?  Anybody else remove that one?  I
couldn't stand having to hold the clutch in whenever I went to start it,
so I soldered that one together.  Now I can use the starter if I want
the bike to crawl up a hill :-)  (No, I haven't done that...).

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dan Wolfrom <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr350) Seat height for short guys like me
Date: 10 Apr 1999 10:17:14 -0500


------ =_NextPart_000_01BE836C.3E301E00
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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Darren,

My wife's 5'-2" on a good day, and I originally bought her a Yamaha XT350
because it was lower than the Suzuki. Ended up selling it, & that's a long
story, and bought her a new DR350. The XT was her first bike, and I thought
that after more experience the taller bike wouldn't matter as much. I
immediately bought the Kouba links and installed them before we took the
bike home. That helped, but still too high. Backed off the rear shock as
far as I could to lower it some more, and it was getting better, although
to me it seems a little spongy now. Finally tore apart the seat and removed
about an inch of foam over the lower half of the seat. Now she does just
fine.

Dan Wolfrom
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE836C.3E301E00--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) mods to my 95 DR350SE (jetting & suspension)
Date: 12 Apr 1999 06:48:36 PDT

I've been playing w/ my recently acquired SE over the weekend and I
love it!

First things I want to get taken care of: carb & suspension.

I pulled the plug out of the top of the airbox, & then decided to go
ahead and cut out a larger opening.  After cleaning filter & putting
back together....WOW!  big difference!  Running VERY lean now so I
need to get the getting right.  Anybody have the specifics of pilot &
main jet #s, and there was something about a different needle?

Also, at the local MX playground, where I DONT catch air (yet
anyway!), I saw a BIG difference in the suspension compared to my
stock 94 XR650L.  Very soft & bouncy.  Riding over some whoops pretty
slow, I could tell that it wouldn't take much to bottom this baby out.
 What is the best thing to do with the existing components?  Do you
put heavier springs AND RT cartridge emulators in the forks?  Can the
shock be significantly improved?  I've never done any suspension work
on a bike before, and am pretty ingorant in this area.

Thanks!

Bryan in Dallas

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 08:53:00 -0600

Big day yesterday for my learning curve on the DR. I did a major tune-up and some add-ons. Here
are some comments for the archives.

1) Oil change and filter. Fred sent me a lifetime surgical steel K & P filter and it fit
perfectly. He also sent me a magnetic drain plug to try from a KLR. The plug is the same
diameter but the threads are coarser (the DR's are finer)...we knew going in that this might
happen. When you change the oil you have to drop oil from 5 spots...the drain plug on the case
underneath...the oil filter cavity....the drain plug on the front downtube...the strainer
underneath the plug...and the oil line going from the strainer to the case. My strainer seemed
to be doing its job but perhaps had never been cleaned...lots of small metal bits (bike has
under 1,600 miles). It takes 2 qts to fill...I used Mobil 1 15-50w.

2) Valve adjustment. Pretty straightforward, cramped work space. I had to bend the tips of my
feeler gauges and use a needle nose vice grip on the adjuster screw ( a tiny square head). One
exhaust needed adjustment...it was too loose.

3) Pulled the plug out of the airbox, cleaned and re-oiled the stock filter. I'm going to wait
until Thumper markets their new airbox and K & N filter before putting an aftermarket filter
in.

Upgrades installed with notes:

1) Kouba links...went on in a snap, I used a floor jack under the left side rear of the
swingarm. Cleaned all the links when I had them out and pumped some fresh grease in afterward.
My SO loves them...is now able to touch the ground easily with 2.5" sag (who knows maybe she
was able to touch before)...

2) Acerbis tank...thanks to Gino for a couple of tips and to Tim Bernard on the fuel line
routing warning. Went on well with a good fit. You have to take two of the nuts off the top
engine mounts and turn these into rubber mounts for the tank. They are torqued pretty good so
you have to have a good stout torque wrench to work with these. The instructions are
straightforward...they have you remove the rubber piece at the front bottom edge of the seat.
Petcocks (2) are non-vacuum actuated they should include a plug...still searching for this?
Fred?

I bought plenty of nice blue premium fuel line after Gino warned us about the crappy line that
comes with the tank. I mounted two clear filters inline before the T...and routed the lines up
above the front of the carb and then one line directly down and just  behind the throttle
cables to the fuel intake on the carb.

3) Driveline's luggage rack and sideracks...I had Tim make me a deluxe rack based on my stock
rear subframe bar....The fit was tight but spot on...I now have 10.5 inches of luggage rack to
work with....the turn signals are moved inboard quite a bit so they will not get dinged so
easily.  The sideracks are, as expected, a work of art and bolt right up...as Gino said, these
should be a must for anyone with the S model.

I started to dive into that ridiculous mudflap but decided I'd wait until I had a good solution
worked out...what is the consensus on the best way to go here?

Kurt (BTW, we hit 96 subscribers this morning)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 09:00:27 -0600

>>I started to dive into that ridiculous mudflap but decided I'd wait until
I had a good solution
worked out...what is the consensus on the best way to go here?<<

I'm thinking that I may just stay with what is on there since my DR will see
commuting, light touring as well as off-road service.  I'm wondering if the
continuous bouncing will weaken the rear fender and mudflap frame.  Anyone
know.  If thatis a problem, I may just replace the whole rear fender with
something from Acerbis with a smaller tail light.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 07:59:54 -0700

>
> 2) Valve adjustment. Pretty straightforward, cramped work space. I had to bend the tips of my
> feeler gauges and use a needle nose vice grip on the adjuster screw ( a tiny square head). One
> exhaust needed adjustment...it was too loose.

Here's a tip I figured out this weekend for those who don't have the Special
Tool for the adjuster screw:  Take a short (~1") square-drive (Jorgenson?)
wood screw and drive it into the center of a small disk (~1") of wood, say
1/4" plywood.  The square-drive screw just happens to match the tip of the
valve adjuster screws perfectly....

Bryan
'96 DR441



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 09:59:07 -0600

>>>I started to dive into that ridiculous mudflap but decided I'd wait until
>I had a good solution
>worked out...what is the consensus on the best way to go here?<<
>
>I'm thinking that I may just stay with what is on there since my DR will see
>commuting, light touring as well as off-road service.  I'm wondering if the
>continuous bouncing will weaken the rear fender and mudflap frame.  Anyone
>know.  If thatis a problem, I may just replace the whole rear fender with
>something from Acerbis with a smaller tail light.
>
>Gino


Looks like you could lose 2-3 inches by just cutting the flap even with the plate (just
guessing cause I don't have the plate yet)...I had it side by side with my KLR and it doesn't
really extend that much further down than the modified KLR license plate set-up...it just looks
funky as hell...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 12:23:00 -0400

I took the mudflap part of my 1990 and still mounted a moose bag with a tool
pack in it. A spare tube and 4 co2 cartridges. Then on top of that, a number
plate bag with 3 shirt and a pair of moccasins. Then I rode it thru 6 days
of whoop dee doos. the fender had no problem. Unless the newer bikes have a
different setup. There is the mudflap frame and then another frame under the
fender. For the six day trip. I had the under the fender frame left in.
Before that, it was the moose bag and spare tube pack on the fender. The
fender held up fine.
 ----------

>>I started to dive into that ridiculous mudflap but decided I'd wait until
I had a good solution
worked out...what is the consensus on the best way to go here?<<

I'm thinking that I may just stay with what is on there since my DR will see
commuting, light touring as well as off-road service.  I'm wondering if the
continuous bouncing will weaken the rear fender and mudflap frame.  Anyone
know.  If thatis a problem, I may just replace the whole rear fender with
something from Acerbis with a smaller tail light.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 11:35:13 -0600

Hey
I eliminated all the heavy bracketing under the rear fender for several
reasons. After a while my tailight self destructed. I bought a Suzuki
replacement & put in on before Moab last year. I got 50 miles out of it and
it vibrated to pieces. I pulled into Fre'd place & had him fix me up with
one he had in stock. It has lasted & price was better. Fred can fill you
inon the light he sold me.
Happy Trails
Tim
-----Original Message-----


>Big day yesterday for my learning curve on the DR. I did a major tune-up
and some add-ons. Here
>are some comments for the archives.
>
>1) Oil change and filter. Fred sent me a lifetime surgical steel K & P
filter and it fit
>perfectly. He also sent me a magnetic drain plug to try from a KLR. The
plug is the same
>diameter but the threads are coarser (the DR's are finer)...we knew going
in that this might
>happen. When you change the oil you have to drop oil from 5 spots...the
drain plug on the case
>underneath...the oil filter cavity....the drain plug on the front
downtube...the strainer
>underneath the plug...and the oil line going from the strainer to the case.
My strainer seemed
>to be doing its job but perhaps had never been cleaned...lots of small
metal bits (bike has
>under 1,600 miles). It takes 2 qts to fill...I used Mobil 1 15-50w.
>
>2) Valve adjustment. Pretty straightforward, cramped work space. I had to
bend the tips of my
>feeler gauges and use a needle nose vice grip on the adjuster screw ( a
tiny square head). One
>exhaust needed adjustment...it was too loose.
>
>3) Pulled the plug out of the airbox, cleaned and re-oiled the stock
filter. I'm going to wait
>until Thumper markets their new airbox and K & N filter before putting an
aftermarket filter
>in.
>
>Upgrades installed with notes:
>
>1) Kouba links...went on in a snap, I used a floor jack under the left side
rear of the
>swingarm. Cleaned all the links when I had them out and pumped some fresh
grease in afterward.
>My SO loves them...is now able to touch the ground easily with 2.5" sag
(who knows maybe she
>was able to touch before)...
>
>2) Acerbis tank...thanks to Gino for a couple of tips and to Tim Bernard on
the fuel line
>routing warning. Went on well with a good fit. You have to take two of the
nuts off the top
>engine mounts and turn these into rubber mounts for the tank. They are
torqued pretty good so
>you have to have a good stout torque wrench to work with these. The
instructions are
>straightforward...they have you remove the rubber piece at the front bottom
edge of the seat.
>Petcocks (2) are non-vacuum actuated they should include a plug...still
searching for this?
>Fred?
>
>I bought plenty of nice blue premium fuel line after Gino warned us about
the crappy line that
>comes with the tank. I mounted two clear filters inline before the T...and
routed the lines up
>above the front of the carb and then one line directly down and just
behind the throttle
>cables to the fuel intake on the carb.
>
>3) Driveline's luggage rack and sideracks...I had Tim make me a deluxe rack
based on my stock
>rear subframe bar....The fit was tight but spot on...I now have 10.5 inches
of luggage rack to
>work with....the turn signals are moved inboard quite a bit so they will
not get dinged so
>easily.  The sideracks are, as expected, a work of art and bolt right
up...as Gino said, these
>should be a must for anyone with the S model.
>
>I started to dive into that ridiculous mudflap but decided I'd wait until I
had a good solution
>worked out...what is the consensus on the best way to go here?
>
>Kurt (BTW, we hit 96 subscribers this morning)
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["H. Glass" <[e-mail]>]
Date: 12 Apr 1999 12:05:39 -0600


>From: "H. Glass" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: [e-mail]
>X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.51 [en] (Win95; I)
>X-Accept-Language: en,de-DE
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
>CC: dr350 <[e-mail]>
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
>References: <010401be84f4$2ae219a0$890246a6@kurt> <[e-mail]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>Bryan Cowger wrote:
>
>>
>> Here's a tip I figured out this weekend for those who don't have the Special
>> Tool for the adjuster screw:  Take a short (~1") square-drive (Jorgenson?)
>
>"Robertson" to be exact, now that the patent has run out, widely available
>outside of Canada (one of the handiest fasteners for the handyman--you can
>aim the driver in ANY direction, but you need special drivers or driverbits: the drivers
>are colour coded, yellow for the tiniest, over green, red to black for the largest).
>
>While we're on ingenious substitutes, I just found out that the OIL FILLER CAP
>from my old VW Diesel Beetle, with two minute venting holes drilled top and
>bottom, makes a very servicable alternative to the PITA factory lockable number.
>Well, as long as you live in a neigbourhood where people don't mess with your
>scooter AND you don't have the habit of riding Flying W style: the ridge on the
>cap might alter your libido a bit.
>
>cheers,
>hpg
>
>
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 16:59:59 -0400

Does anyone on the list have any experience with aftermarket  rear shocks? I
have seen a write up on Progressives 420 series but I believe it lacks
rebound adjustment
and a remote canister.
Any other alternatives out there?
My 90 DRS has compression adj. but also lacks rebound adj. It seems to get
worse the longer I ride.
We rode 70 miles at Leota Mich.. Saturday. The friend I was with, who had
been trying to talk me into a new KTM or WR, rode my DRS for 10 miles and
said I needed a new shock not a new bike!

Second question, has anyone installed Thumpers Bar Risers? If so do the
controls still fit or are cables/ cobbling necessary? Anyone else sell a
higher bar than Renthals CR bend?
-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
<[e-mail]>


>
>>
>
>Many thanks to Kurt Simpson, who started the dr350 list and has put
>countless hrs
>into its inception. Thanks  Norm
>
>Suzuki DR Suspensions
>HTTP://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
>Phone [phone]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Looking for a part!
Date: 12 Apr 1999 16:40:11 -0600

I want to replace the rear seat rail on my DR350S with the DR350 dirt
version. I'm under the impression that they're lighter, being aluminum, and
are missing the turn signal and tool kit tabs. Anyone got one they're
willing to part with?

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 17:03:40 -0700

David,

White Brothers had a White Power shock in stock for the DR last summer, and it
cost somewhere in the $500+ range.

If you plan on riding like you do now then it would be cheaper to have your
stock shock rebuilt. If you plan on riding as aggressive as one needs to on a
KTM or WR (to make them work as they ought to) or if you ride with those who do,
there is still some hope left in your DR, but you must be willing to put some $
it.

I have suspension from an RMX on mine, along with a 441 kit; although it still
will not take the whoops as well as a smoker, not having that 2-stroke hit, plus
the burden of more weight, it's surprisingly not far behind, and many times in
front; superior in wide-open, high-speed sections and tighter woods - it's
somewhere in between that requires some work.

John




"david olson" <[e-mail]> on 04/12/99 01:59:59 PM

Please respond to "david olson" <[e-mail]>

Does anyone on the list have any experience with aftermarket  rear shocks? I
have seen a write up on Progressives 420 series but I believe it lacks
rebound adjustment
and a remote canister.
Any other alternatives out there?
My 90 DRS has compression adj. but also lacks rebound adj. It seems to get
worse the longer I ride.
We rode 70 miles at Leota Mich.. Saturday. The friend I was with, who had
been trying to talk me into a new KTM or WR, rode my DRS for 10 miles and
said I needed a new shock not a new bike!

Second question, has anyone installed Thumpers Bar Risers? If so do the
controls still fit or are cables/ cobbling necessary? Anyone else sell a
higher bar than Renthals CR bend?






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 12 Apr 1999 19:55:17 -0700

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> David,
>
> White Brothers had a White Power shock in stock for the DR last summer, and it
> cost somewhere in the $500+ range.
>
> If you plan on riding like you do now then it would be cheaper to have your
> stock shock rebuilt. If you plan on riding as aggressive as one needs to on a
> KTM or WR (to make them work as they ought to) or if you ride with those who do,
> there is still some hope left in your DR, but you must be willing to put some $
> it.
>
> I have suspension from an RMX on mine, along with a 441 kit; although it still
> will not take the whoops as well as a smoker, not having that 2-stroke hit, plus
> the burden of more weight, it's surprisingly not far behind, and many times in
> front; superior in wide-open, high-speed sections and tighter woods - it's
> somewhere in between that requires some work.
>
> John
>
> "david olson" <[e-mail]> on 04/12/99 01:59:59 PM
>
> Please respond to "david olson" <[e-mail]>
>
> Does anyone on the list have any experience with aftermarket  rear shocks? I
> have seen a write up on Progressives 420 series but I believe it lacks
> rebound adjustment
> and a remote canister.
> Any other alternatives out there?
> My 90 DRS has compression adj. but also lacks rebound adj. It seems to get
> worse the longer I ride.
> We rode 70 miles at Leota Mich.. Saturday. The friend I was with, who had
> been trying to talk me into a new KTM or WR, rode my DRS for 10 miles and
> said I needed a new shock not a new bike!
>
> Second question, has anyone installed Thumpers Bar Risers? If so do the
> controls still fit or are cables/ cobbling necessary? Anyone else sell a
> higher bar than Renthals CR bend?
david i have a 90 dr dirt only model and have tried various things to my
suspension.
1.87 rm front forks cartrige type which require changing the front wheel
bearings, the axle is larger but you can get the bearings from a bearing
supply house with the same outside dimension to fit into the dr wheel
you may have to play with the spacers a little but i believe you will be
pleased with the results.
2.have your shock hard anodized type 111 spec. then send it to scotts
and have George revalve it and install a longer shaft to match up with
the extra inch you will pick up with the RM forks to keep the bikes
attitude right. the shock cost me approx.$200.00 at scotts. I could
probably help you out with the plating.
3.Now if you feel really adventurous you could call PPS and put an olins
shock and figure out how to tell you wife that you just spent 800.00
plus dollars.
any Questions i will be happy to help any way I can
[e-mail]_plus.net



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) smog stuff on a DR350SE??
Date: 12 Apr 1999 20:24:53 PDT

I was reading someone's comments about the installation of their
aftermarket tank, and they referred to having to remove the "smog
stuff".  What smog stuff is that?  I dont see any canisters or
anything like there was on my XR650L.  If there is any smog stuff on a
95 SE, someone please describe it to me.

Thanks-

Bryan in Dallas

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) smog stuff on a DR350SE??
Date: 13 Apr 1999 08:21:45 -0600



>I was reading someone's comments about the installation of their
>aftermarket tank, and they referred to having to remove the "smog
>stuff".  What smog stuff is that?  I dont see any canisters or
>anything like there was on my XR650L.  If there is any smog stuff on a
>95 SE, someone please describe it to me.


maybe they had a California model...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Kouba links...
Date: 13 Apr 1999 07:59:29 -0700

Say Jess,

Did George's (@Scott's) work w/the longer shaft give you > than the stock 11" of
rear wheel travel? I assume it did.

John




jessekientz <[e-mail]> on 04/12/99 07:55:17 PM

david i have a 90 dr dirt only model and have tried various things to my
suspension.
1.87 rm front forks cartrige type which require changing the front wheel
bearings, the axle is larger but you can get the bearings from a bearing
supply house with the same outside dimension to fit into the dr wheel
you may have to play with the spacers a little but i believe you will be
pleased with the results.
2.have your shock hard anodized type 111 spec. then send it to scotts
and have George revalve it and install a longer shaft to match up with
the extra inch you will pick up with the RM forks to keep the bikes
attitude right. the shock cost me approx.$200.00 at scotts. I could
probably help you out with the plating.
3.Now if you feel really adventurous you could call PPS and put an olins
shock and figure out how to tell you wife that you just spent 800.00
plus dollars.
any Questions i will be happy to help any way I can
[e-mail]_plus.net









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "David M2 Thompson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: "unlocking"the dr350 Gas Cap
Date: 13 Apr 1999 13:18:08 -0400

I simply removed the cap, carefully unscrewed the lock assembly and removed
the locking cams.  screwed it back together and added a short length of
chain fitted with a "T" made from a length of coat hanger.  I stuffed the
"T" in the fuel tank so that I can just unscrew the fuel cap & let it hang
when I fill up.  The key is no longer used.

Also, I finally figured out that fresh gas in the float bowl is the magic
elixir for easy starting on my '90 DR350S.  For convenience, I cut a piece
of stainless steel sheet, trimmed and filed it until it fits the slot on the
float bowl drain screw.  Then I drilled a hole and mounted it on a key ring
with the ignition key. It's always handy, without having to get the tool
pack out to find a screwdriver.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Looking for a part!
Date: 13 Apr 1999 21:57:46 -0500 (CDT)


On 04/12/99 16:40:11 you wrote:
>
>I want to replace the rear seat rail on my DR350S with the DR350 dirt
>version. I'm under the impression that they're lighter, being aluminum, and
>are missing the turn signal and tool kit tabs. Anyone got one they're
>willing to part with?
>
>Mike Terrian
>[e-mail]
>
>
>

Mike;  I have a customer that has a rear rail off a 94 DR. says he will take
$25.00 for it, I 'll  wrap and ship it for $5.00 if you are in the US.  It
has been bead blasted down to alum. color, but doubt if you will fine a blue
one anyway.  If your interested let me know.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?
Date: 13 Apr 1999 23:47:00 -0400

I am new to this,  but I will give it a try..  I have a 94 DR350es and I
am trying to give it a good work over before this summer.  Aside form
general maintenance,  I would like to get some tips on making it better
suited to trail riding.  I live in the east, VA, (for now,)  and in my
little bit of experience off road here,  have found new things I am not
familiar with.  I am originally from Nevada,  and had areas to go riding
right outside my back door,  wide open cruising,  desert mountains,  etc
etc...  Now,  I have to search hard for places to ride,  and they are
usually wet wooded areas,  with trees.  At any rate,  I still want to
ride the bike to work,  and I dont want to spend eight billion dollars
on things like cylinders and engine mods.  I would just like some
affordable tips on making it a better bike.  Anything from tire
suggestions to handle bar tips.  I hope I am not missing the aim of this
email ring thing,  I hope I can get some good advice out of some
knowledgeable people.  Thanks for your time,
Respectfully,
PJ Andersen
By the way:  Anyone live around SE VA?  Lets ride sometime!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Harald Glass <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Maintenance Weekend...
Date: 14 Apr 1999 00:37:13 -0400


Bryan Cowger wrote:

>
> Here's a tip I figured out this weekend for those who don't have the Special
> Tool for the adjuster screw:  Take a short (~1") square-drive (Jorgenson?)

"Robertson" to be exact, now that the patent has run out, widely available
outside of Canada (one of the handiest fasteners for the handyman--you can
aim the driver in ANY direction, but you need special drivers or driverbits: the drivers
are colour coded, yellow for the tiniest, over green, red to black for the largest).

While we're on ingenious substitutes, I just found out that the OIL FILLER CAP
from my old VW Diesel Beetle, with two minute venting holes drilled top and
bottom, makes a very servicable alternative to the PITA factory lockable number.
Well, as long as you live in a neigbourhood where people don't mess with your
scooter AND you don't have the habit of riding Flying W style: the ridge on the
cap might alter your libido a bit.

cheers,
hpg









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?
Date: 13 Apr 1999 22:15:51 -0700

PATRICK ANDERSON wrote:
>
> I am new to this,  but I will give it a try..  I have a 94 DR350es and I
> am trying to give it a good work over before this summer.  Aside form
> general maintenance,  I would like to get some tips on making it better
> suited to trail riding.  I live in the east, VA, (for now,)  and in my
> little bit of experience off road here,  have found new things I am not
> familiar with.  I am originally from Nevada,  and had areas to go riding
> right outside my back door,  wide open cruising,  desert mountains,  etc
> etc...  Now,  I have to search hard for places to ride,  and they are
> usually wet wooded areas,  with trees.  At any rate,  I still want to
> ride the bike to work,  and I dont want to spend eight billion dollars
> on things like cylinders and engine mods.  I would just like some
> affordable tips on making it a better bike.  Anything from tire
> suggestions to handle bar tips.  I hope I am not missing the aim of this
> email ring thing,  I hope I can get some good advice out of some
> knowledgeable people.  Thanks for your time,
> Respectfully,
> PJ Andersen
> By the way:  Anyone live around SE VA?  Lets ride sometime!
Patrick greetings from grants pass OR first put protapers and Applied
top triple clamps {handle bars} you will like them. dont Know if you are
riding on the highway if so you will have to get some dot approved
Knobbys if not I run a dunlop K490 on the front and a michelin mp11
intermediate on the rear. if you can find a white brothers mega 4 and
thier oversize header it will improve your power output but rejetting
will be necessary up a couple sizes on the main and check your plug
color should be chocolate brown.Boy do I carry on. If you want more info
let me know always willing to help. Jesse



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Ohlins shocks
Date: 14 Apr 1999 07:13:35 EDT

Have any of your guy had any experence with Ohlins shocks

Tony



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) dr 350 ideas?
Date: 14 Apr 1999 09:03:00 -0400

Here's a couple of relatively inexpensive tips for improving the dr for the
east .
Put in a k&n airfilter.
Throw the stock handlebars out and get a set of 1991 honda cr250 aluminum
high bend bars. They have a much better riding position and won't smach the
top of your leg when your sitting on the bike and turn the handlebar all the
way.

Get a pair of Norm's kouba links (he's on the list) and if your more than
about 180lbs, get a new set of front and rear springs.
get a good set of knobbies and have some fun
 ----------

I am new to this,  but I will give it a try..  I have a 94 DR350es and I
am trying to give it a good work over before this summer.  Aside form
general maintenance,  I would like to get some tips on making it better
suited to trail riding.  I live in the east, VA, (for now,)  and in my
little bit of experience off road here,  have found new things I am not
familiar with.  I am originally from Nevada,  and had areas to go riding
right outside my back door,  wide open cruising,  desert mountains,  etc
etc...  Now,  I have to search hard for places to ride,  and they are
usually wet wooded areas,  with trees.  At any rate,  I still want to
ride the bike to work,  and I dont want to spend eight billion dollars
on things like cylinders and engine mods.  I would just like some
affordable tips on making it a better bike.  Anything from tire
suggestions to handle bar tips.  I hope I am not missing the aim of this
email ring thing,  I hope I can get some good advice out of some
knowledgeable people.  Thanks for your time,
Respectfully,
PJ Andersen
By the way:  Anyone live around SE VA?  Lets ride sometime!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter
Date: 14 Apr 1999 09:07:03 PDT

I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
$435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
good as what Thumper does?

Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?

Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
w/o taking the carb boot off!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350se
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp;
Date: 14 Apr 1999 10:22:38 -0600

>>Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?<<

I just purchased Pro Tapers and the universal kit from Fred Hink for my 99
DR350se, which will remain stock, by the way ;-).  I'll let you know how
they work when I get them on. I'm a mediocre off-road rider who invariably
picks the absolute worse line through rocky trails, so I figure the added
strength of the Pro Tapers is a plus.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N filter
Date: 14 Apr 1999 10:29:06 -0600

Bryan:

> Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
> needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
> needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
> for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
> just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
> me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
> from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
> airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
> know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
> cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
> w/o taking the carb boot off!

I don't think it's absolutely necessary to remove the carb boot to get the
filter on. I ran a K&N for a while (I've replaced it with a Uni) and I got
the bolt in without doing so. It just takes forever. It is a major hassle
but it can be done by just "feeling" around with the end of the bolt.
Persevere!!

On Wednesday, April 14, 1999 10:07 AM, Bryan Nolastname
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
> revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
> $435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
> in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
> instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
> good as what Thumper does?

I installed Race Tech's cartridge emulators and springs in my DR. It made a
huge difference. Total cost was about $200. I'm still working on the read
end. Bought an Eibach spring that I haven't had a chance to install yet.
Paid approx $80 for it. So far, doing the labor myself, I'm up to $280. If
I included the cost of a shock service, not to mention a revalve, I'd be
pretty close to the $435. So, my point is, depending on what they plan to
do, $435 may be pretty reasonable.

> Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
> around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
> but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
> much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
> that are as good/better/less $$?

If I were you, I'd just install some good bars (Renthals, for example) and
save the difference. Others may not agree but I don't think you'll get much
return on your investment with ProTaper and new triple clamps on the DR. At
least, not for the kind of riding you describe.

Mike Terrian
[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp;
Date: 14 Apr 1999 09:31:09 -0700

Bryan,

Your year of DR does not have cartridge forks but rather the simpler damper rod
design; there is very little room for improvement within. Up front, the best
bang for your $ can be found with Race Tech emulators and stiffer springs (call
them for info or check their web site). On the rear, go with the Kouba link and
his recommended stiffer spring (7.6kg?) All of the aforementioned can be
installed by anyone with a basic mechanical aptitude, for less than the $ you
were quoted, with better ending results according to other DR owners.

I had the Answer upper clamp and ProTapers on mine; seemed to stiffen up the
front end somewhat, but not to the level I wanted for hard dirt work - sure drew
the attention of friends, though. The bars are a very good investment; stronger
yet not as rigid (some flex is intended) as the stockers. They make a bar and
adopters where you can reuse your existing upper clamp.

Gauze filters are not the hot ticket in dry, dusty conditions, like here in
SoCal. I prefer a UNI foam unit. You might try removing the top of your air box,
then remove the seat to have better access to the wing nut.

John




"Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]> on 04/14/99 09:07:03 AM

Please respond to "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
      filter




I'm considering sending my forks & shock to Thumper Raceing for their
revalve/respring job.  The total cost, excluding shipping, will be
$435.  Is this a good deal?  While I've never been into a fork/shock
in my life, I'm sure I could do most anything w/ good
instructions....but would it be worth the hassel & would it be as
good as what Thumper does?

Also...Thumper sells the ProTaper bars & Answer triple clamp for
around $230 total.  Will a guy like me (little off road experience
but getting more all the time; will do alot of DS touring) notice
much better handling from this investment?  Are there alternatives
that are as good/better/less $$?

Yesterday I got the K&N filter from Thumper, and their JX spring &
needle they recommend for the carb.  Installation of the spring &
needle was a snap!  But the freakin' filter!!!! I struggled with it
for at least an hour before I finally decided that the wing-bolt was
just too damn long to fit.  I called them to complain that they sent
me the wrong filter, & they said you had to take off the rubber boot
from airbox to carb in order to reach in from the engine side of teh
airbox to guide the wingbolt into the hole!!!  What a drag!  I dont
know why they still recommend the K&N knowing the hassel its going to
cause, or they should at least warn people that its not going to fit
w/o taking the carb boot off!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350se
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) pro taper bars
Date: 14 Apr 1999 14:51:00 -0400

Could someone explain the benefit of protaper bars to me. I've always took
off stock bars and put on high bend aluminum bars, cut down to 30 inches.
The woods here on the east coast are tight.

Also, with no cross bar, where do you mount the route sheet holder and for
my occasional enduro, the clock and electric odometer ?

For a couple hundred bucks there should be some significant benefit.

Anyone got any input ?

Nick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) pro taper bars
Date: 14 Apr 1999 13:23:05 -0600

According to a catalog in which Pro-Tapers are featured:

"Made from Easton EA-70 ProGram aluminum with exclusive taper wall design.
They are 30% lighter and 45% stronger than conventional aluminum bars due
to patented oversize 1 1/8" bulge design. No slip 1.125" clamp area
eliminates bar rotation. Pro-Taper bars flex more in an up and down motion,
yet are stronger and more secure in forward and aft direction."

Hope that helps.

Mike Terrian
'96 DR350SE

On Wednesday, April 14, 1999 12:51 PM, Sperduto, Nick
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Could someone explain the benefit of protaper bars to me. I've always
took
> off stock bars and put on high bend aluminum bars, cut down to 30 inches.
> The woods here on the east coast are tight.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) suspension upgrades; new handlebars & tripple clamp; K&N
Date: 14 Apr 1999 16:38:49 EDT

 I agree that the K&N filter is a b*tch to service but it does a great job of
letting your bike breath easier. Try cutting out the top of your air box. You
will have an easier time with the wing nut and you will gain a couple of
ponies because of better air flow.

 As to your suspension try putting a set of Progressive springs on all three
legs set to your weight and riding style. Save the re-valve until you need
the seals replaced. By then you will a lot more about how you want your
suspension to handle. The springs are about $180.00 for all three and not to
difficult to change.
Progressive's phone # [phone].

 I have not had a chance to try them yet but I hear great things about the
Kouba links. Hope to have them on my bike soon.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/

 I like the Pro Taper bars but if you are looking to get maximum return for
your dollar you might think about putting your money into a good pipe and
silencer. I can't really recommend a particular one for your SE because I
have an off road only DR. My Big Gun
might be a little to loud for street use :) I am told that Mike is working on
a quitter silencer. You can give him a call and ask. Mike Young  (909)
948-7029 or http://www.biggunexhaust.com/.

Good luck with all of it.
Mike A.
Nashville

Disclaimer: The above info is the opinion of just one idiot and not
necessarily that of the other idiots.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Stolen Motorcycle DR350 97
Date: 14 Apr 1999 17:20:01 -0400 (EDT)

      To all potential buyers and or good citizens be on the look out for my
bike.


It's a 1997 DR 350 serial # JS1SK42A4V2100530 with about 2500 miles.

If any one can help please do, I will offer a reward to the arrest of the
#*!~`*#!

One piss-off rider,
Kevin x-dr350





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kevin albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Stolen Motorcycle DR350 97
Date: 14 Apr 1999 17:56:10 -0400 (EDT)


    To all potential buyers and or good citizens be on the look out for my bike.


It's a 1997 DR 350 serial # JS1SK42A4V2100530 with about 2500 miles.

If any one can help please do, I will offer a reward to the arrest of the
#*!~`*#!
It was borrowed without my permission in Columbus, Ohio
In my back yard w/ a two inch cable, a u-lock and the front steering column
locked.
They cut the steel cable with bolt cutters and hauled my baby off.

One piss-off rider,
Kevin x-dr350
I just opened a web page @ http://www.oe-pages.com/AUTO/Motorcycles/albrechtkj




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 14 Apr 1999 19:51:35 -0700

Hi ,

This message is for info !!!  and NOT to blame the others that provided
the info.  !!!!!!! I learned from that.
I have a 99 DR350SE .
After reading through the recomended modification, to get more power, i
have made the mistake of cutting off  the top of the air box , after
that the bike ran like shit. I 've tryed different jetings and so on,
wiht no help. the bike would not run after 1/4 throttle. Re glued it ,
and it ran fine again.
 I gues the newer SE models have  a Vacuum operated slide , and by
cutting the air box , it screws up how the slide operates.
On theDirt only DR , the slide is direct operated with the throttle
cable , wich also operates an accelerator pump. ( pumper)
This is a good design , i wish mine would have that setup.
Also my  DR-SE has only 1 groove on the needle , so there is no
adjustment , other than shiming it.
I hope nobody else made this mistake, oh well i had to reglue the top ,
maybe when i get my hand on those pumper carbs i can take the top off
the airbox too.$ 280 for the carb. 5-8 horse add-on.

coments are welcome !?

George
( one happy rider )





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 14 Apr 1999 17:51:20 -0700

I cut the top off my '97 SE (with the stock carb), re-jetted, and enjoyed
the increased power.

FYI,
Bryan
'96 DR441


George Kovacs wrote:
>
> Hi ,
>
> This message is for info !!!  and NOT to blame the others that provided
> the info.  !!!!!!! I learned from that.
> I have a 99 DR350SE .
> After reading through the recomended modification, to get more power, i
> have made the mistake of cutting off  the top of the air box , after
> that the bike ran like shit. I 've tryed different jetings and so on,
> wiht no help. the bike would not run after 1/4 throttle. Re glued it ,
> and it ran fine again.
>  I gues the newer SE models have  a Vacuum operated slide , and by
> cutting the air box , it screws up how the slide operates.
> On theDirt only DR , the slide is direct operated with the throttle
> cable , wich also operates an accelerator pump. ( pumper)
> This is a good design , i wish mine would have that setup.
> Also my  DR-SE has only 1 groove on the needle , so there is no
> adjustment , other than shiming it.
> I hope nobody else made this mistake, oh well i had to reglue the top ,
> maybe when i get my hand on those pumper carbs i can take the top off
> the airbox too.$ 280 for the carb. 5-8 horse add-on.
>
> coments are welcome !?
>
> George
> ( one happy rider )



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 14 Apr 1999 19:28:46 -0600

>
>This message is for info !!!  and NOT to blame the others that provided
>the info.  !!!!!!! I learned from that.
>I have a 99 DR350SE .
>After reading through the recomended modification, to get more power, i
>have made the mistake of cutting off  the top of the air box , after
>that the bike ran like shit. I 've tryed different jetings and so on,
>wiht no help. the bike would not run after 1/4 throttle. Re glued it ,
>and it ran fine again.
> I gues the newer SE models have  a Vacuum operated slide , and by
>cutting the air box , it screws up how the slide operates.


George...you're joking right? No...well, I'll bite either way.

The bike will run fine with the top off...but you have to understand what you are doing...By
opening up the airbox you are providing an easier way for the engine to suck more air for the
combustion process. In order to balance it out you have to change the amount of fuel that is
being simultaneously delivered. You do this by changing the pilot and main jet and raising the
needle so that the proflile of the needle is thinner in the throttle bore as the air rushes
by...

So, you did only the easiest part it needs to be supplemented with a jet kit and a jx needle
and spring...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 14 Apr 1999 19:40:13 -0600


>
>So, you did only the easiest part it needs to be supplemented with a jet kit and a jx needle
>and spring...
>
>Kurt


and probably a pipe...a K & N kit generally calls for 3 stages...stage 3 includes the largest
of 3 jets...the needle in a higher position than stage 2 an aftermarket pipe AND modification
of the airbox...so, maybe you're right afterall in the sense that people should be wary of
advice that says just start choppin...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) DR suspension
Date: 14 Apr 1999 20:23:12 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0153_01BE86B4.9EA066A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't want to be too blantly commercial, but I would suggest listers =
consider for your suspension upgrades,=20
Norm Kouba, at Suzuki DR Suspensions =
HTTP://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299    Phone [phone]

He has done a lot of research on this bike, and knows what works.  He =
seems at least as good a bet as any. =20







Tom Warr   Bikermaniac
Great Falls, Montana
[e-mail]

------=_NextPart_000_0153_01BE86B4.9EA066A0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#fffff0>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I don't want to be too blantly =
commercial, but I=20
would suggest listers consider for your suspension upgrades, =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3D"Times New =
Roman">
<P>Norm Kouba, at Suzuki DR Suspensions <A=20
href=3D"http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299">HTTP://www.geocities.com=
/motorcity/2299</A>   =20
Phone [phone]</P>
<P>He has done a lot of research on this bike, and knows what =
works.  He=20
seems at least as good a bet as any.  </P>
<P></FONT> </P>
<P> </P></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Tom Warr   =
Bikermaniac<BR>Great Falls,=20
Montana<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A></FONT></DIV></B=
ODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0153_01BE86B4.9EA066A0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Kouba link
Date: 15 Apr 1999 01:53:15 -0400 (EDT)

Does the Kouba Link cause bottoming problems as in hitting the inner
fender or back of airbox?                 Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Kouba Links
Date: 15 Apr 1999 01:57:36 -0400 (EDT)

Any one tried these?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tony <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Date: 15 Apr 1999 06:58:42 -0500

I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.

The dirt only version sure seems better than the SE (50 lbs, pumper
carb, etc), but I need a street legal bike.  Does the dirt only version
have enough stator to run street lights?  Is it geared high enough to do
70 mph for awhile without infernoizing?

Also, I know everyone loves their bikes, but if you had it to do over
again would you try to come up with the extra cash to buy an XR400 and
legalize it, or a XR650L instead of the DR?

I want a bike that will wheelie and roost, be agile on the trail, and
keep up on the highway to the next trail.  I know this is like asking
for gain and bandwidth on an amp design, but what bike represents the
best compromise of dirt worthiness and road readiness?  I've been riding
a Yamaha TW200 for 2 years-great fun, but I have REALLY outgrown it.

Thanks for the help!

--
Tony Kurth

*** NEW EMAIL ADDRESS IS: [e-mail] ***

Senior Junior Level Circuit Designer
Raytheon Systems
Dallas, Tx

972-344-3541
__________________________________________________

If it doesn't stall, you didn't fall!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) List notes...
Date: 15 Apr 1999 06:49:14 -0600

The dr350 list is now at 99 subscribers...the next subscriber gets the cigar to use as they
please (g) [forgive me Monica]....

Kurt

visit the list archives at:

http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 15 Apr 1999 08:57:19 EDT

 You all have made a good point. I didn't think to mention re-jetting after
cutting out the air box (in my last post) because I did it when I put my new
exhaust on. Then I had my local Suzuki guru re-jet for my new setup. Sorry
for the incomplete advice.

Mike A.
Nashville




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Date: 15 Apr 1999 07:06:43 -0600

>I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
>about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.


DUST had a good thread on this recently...the best dual sport means a lot of different things
to a lot of different riders. I think the SE is the best dual sport if you mean, "light dual
sport tourer"...it sounds like you are looking for the best dual sport meaning "barely street
legal" ...then it sounds like you couldn't beat an XR-400, XR-650, DR-350 with a dual sport
kit. Alan Roach at Baja Designs has excellent and detailed information on the
alternator/regulator capabilities of nearly all dirt bikes. Tom Meyers of CycoActive in Seattle
swears by his XR-400. You might want to ask this same question to the DUST list. You can get
subscription info for this and most all motorcycle lists at www.micapeak.com.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Building a base...
Date: 15 Apr 1999 08:35:22 -0600

We've been through this on the KLR list many times over. We need to build a solid base of
tested information on the list. Clearly, some of the listers "have been there done that" as
more and more share their past and present experiences we'll be able to sort out some of the
chaos and have a couple of clearly defined upgrade paths for suspension, performance, and
versatility.

So for S owners, I can attest that pulling the plug out of the airbox seems to give a little
better flow with no adverse effects that I can detect. It is a little touchier coming off choke
which may mean I'm coming up a bit lean on the pilot jet. But nothing to worry about once it is
fully warmed up. It is more like any of the Honda's I've owned that are "cold-blooded." Now,
let's go from there. Everyone agrees that it is nice to have an adjustable needle and Thumper
swears the Jx needle and spring is all you need, they say to stick with the stock jetting, so
for those that have done just that tell the list what happened when you installed the needle
and jet with and without airbox mods. Note any exhaust changes as well. Thumper told me to
stick with the stock exhaust that it actually breathes pretty well.

George, my advice would be to order a Jx needle and spring...Fred can you get those for us? Or,
should we go to Thumper? Let's try the needle and spring...with the glued airbox cover back on.
Then take it off. Then let's try a K & N filter or UNI filter.

Same thing with the Kouba links, I have them on now and will be able to give a ride report. I
put them on because of the strong recommendation of Tim Bernard, a riding buddy of Norm's and
because I'd read about the dreaded sidekick. I figured if I could rid myself of the sidekick at
less than $100 why not? Also, my SO will ride the bike so the lowering option is an additional
plus making the purchase a no-brainer....

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Building a base...
Date: 15 Apr 1999 08:52:58 -0600


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 1999 8:35 AM


>
> George, my advice would be to order a Jx needle and spring...Fred can you
get those for us?

I'm sure I can get the needle but what about that spring?  I need part
numbers or descriptions.

> Then let's try a K & N filter or UNI filter.

How about NoToil?  Has anyone tried this set up?  You can get the
biodegradable (water cleanup) oil and cleaner for $16.95 and you get a free
foam air filter.  Check out:
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/newproduct.html

My shop is closed today, celebrating Tax Day,  NOT!!

Fred





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) vibration
Date: 15 Apr 1999 10:52:00 -0400

Anybody got any tricks for lessening the vibration thru the handlebars of my
bike. It's a 98 KTM 400 RXC. I've heard of people filling op the handlebars
with spray foam insulation.

My hand go numb while I'm riding the bike and with the good ole carpal
tunnel syndrome. Every year it seems to get worse.

Or any suggestions for excersing to improve the strength of the fingers,
maybe that would help some. or stretching or something. I'm not sure if the
problem is from tight grip or vibration. It seems to be worse when I'm
riding aggressive single track as oppsoed to cruising along on two-track
roads.

The problem was real bad on my kdx200, then It was alot better when I had a
dr350.
But this past weekend, it was pretty bad. It was also raining and cold and
wet if that had anyhting to do with it.

Nick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 15 Apr 1999 12:16:41 -0400 (EDT)

I am new to the group and this may have already been mentioned but here
is what would be helpful when considering the Kouba Link.
I  weigh 190, have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire and heavier wt Progressive
springs front and rear.
The back tire bottoms severely in airbox/inner front fender area. Norm
says 5.10 is too big. Also IMHO the progressive part of the PS spring is
still too soft and a straight would should be used. I know that PS is
popular with DR riders( I like them too) but this should be considered
along with tire size ( I have used as  large as 5.30 Chen Shin before).
The links are great , just thought someone might need to know if they
have a similar setup and are going to buy the Kouba.
BTW can the rear spring be removed and changed w/o a special tool? The
shop did it the first tie but would like to do it myself if possible.
Thanks,
      Jim A.
      90DRS





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim Bernard" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 15 Apr 1999 10:00:38 -0600

 I had similar problems & sent minne to Cycle Gear & got the magic air box.
All was well when it returned. This was on a 94 & was done in 95 or 96.
Happy Trails
Tim
-----Original Message-----
Cc: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>I cut the top off my '97 SE (with the stock carb), re-jetted, and enjoyed
>the increased power.
>
>FYI,
>Bryan
>'96 DR441
>
>
>George Kovacs wrote:
>>
>> Hi ,
>>
>> This message is for info !!!  and NOT to blame the others that provided
>> the info.  !!!!!!! I learned from that.
>> I have a 99 DR350SE .
>> After reading through the recomended modification, to get more power, i
>> have made the mistake of cutting off  the top of the air box , after
>> that the bike ran like shit. I 've tryed different jetings and so on,
>> wiht no help. the bike would not run after 1/4 throttle. Re glued it ,
>> and it ran fine again.
>>  I gues the newer SE models have  a Vacuum operated slide , and by
>> cutting the air box , it screws up how the slide operates.
>> On theDirt only DR , the slide is direct operated with the throttle
>> cable , wich also operates an accelerator pump. ( pumper)
>> This is a good design , i wish mine would have that setup.
>> Also my  DR-SE has only 1 groove on the needle , so there is no
>> adjustment , other than shiming it.
>> I hope nobody else made this mistake, oh well i had to reglue the top ,
>> maybe when i get my hand on those pumper carbs i can take the top off
>> the airbox too.$ 280 for the carb. 5-8 horse add-on.
>>
>> coments are welcome !?
>>
>> George
>> ( one happy rider )
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) newsgroup
Date: 15 Apr 1999 12:33:41 -0400 (EDT)

I'm looking for my post right now, I'm kinda slow on this webtv. Now
that you mention it the return I am getting is my copy, I am looking for
it on the postings under "kouba in the grop. I will figure it ou, it
will just take a little while,
Thanks
 JA




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 15 Apr 1999 10:43:31 -0600



> I had similar problems & sent minne to Cycle Gear & got the magic air box.
>All was well when it returned. This was on a 94 & was done in 95 or 96.
>Happy Trails
>Tim


my understanding is that Cycle Gear now longer makes the magic box ...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Scotts Steering Stabilizer on my 91se
Date: 15 Apr 1999 12:39:54 EDT

I have just installed a Scotts Steering Stabilizer on  my 91se and th
difference is amazing you can ride a lot faster on and off road with better
safety and it also calms the rear end down a lot it was easy to fit the best
purchase i have ever mad

Ive just got 2 spare wheels of a dr what are the best road tyres that any of
you have experence with i was thinking off Pirelli MT60

Tony



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Date: 15 Apr 1999 13:03:10 -0600


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
>about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.


Tony,

I think you can determine which bikes are good DS bikes pretty easy and the
DR350 definitely falls into this category!  However, after that actually
rating the good ones and picking a winner is real tough.  It comes down to
your riding style, intended use and ergonomics.  This can make my best DS
bike your least favorite and vice versa.  If you have any chance to ride I
DR350 I'd recommend it and for that matter some of the competition too.  Its
amazing how small differences in design can really make or break a bike when
it comes to individual preference.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Date: 15 Apr 1999 13:03:10 -0600


-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
>about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.


Tony,

I think you can determine which bikes are good DS bikes pretty easy and the
DR350 definitely falls into this category!  However, after that actually
rating the good ones and picking a winner is real tough.  It comes down to
your riding style, intended use and ergonomics.  This can make my best DS
bike your least favorite and vice versa.  If you have any chance to ride I
DR350 I'd recommend it and for that matter some of the competition too.  Its
amazing how small differences in design can really make or break a bike when
it comes to individual preference.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Vik





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Bottom Trouble
Date: 15 Apr 1999 15:56:25 EDT

I just got done talking to Scott Products, they claim that I should not use
Progressive springs. I think that they may be right. I called Progressive and
they only offer one size spring for the DR. I have a hard time believing one
spring will be right for a 160 lb. and also serve well for a 250 lb. rider
(me). Anyone have any comments? I am also interested in setting up my bike
with the Kouba links. Hopefully I can get some good info on what springs to
use from one of y'all.

Mike A.
Nashville

PS I am an intermediate rider, off road only. Thanks



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Bottom Trouble
Date: 15 Apr 1999 13:10:58 -0700

Mike,

I'm 210 w/o gear.  I have Kouba links and a 7.6 kg/mm Eibach shock spring.
Works well for me (with the exception of the stock valving).  You might
consider the next size stronger spring.

I'm in the process of adding a Gold Valve to the shock.  The stock valving
is bottoming out during relatively small jumps, even with the compression
clicker all the way in (not MX stuff -- just smaller trail jumps).

Check out Race Tech's web site:

http://www.race-tech.com

Bryan
'96 DR441


>
> I just got done talking to Scott Products, they claim that I should not use
> Progressive springs. I think that they may be right. I called Progressive and
> they only offer one size spring for the DR. I have a hard time believing one
> spring will be right for a 160 lb. and also serve well for a 250 lb. rider
> (me). Anyone have any comments? I am also interested in setting up my bike
> with the Kouba links. Hopefully I can get some good info on what springs to
> use from one of y'all.
>
> Mike A.
> Nashville
>
> PS I am an intermediate rider, off road only. Thanks



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Attention DR350 SE owners!
Date: 15 Apr 1999 16:05:36 -0700

Correct , I just talk to cycle gear, they said currently they don't have any
body to make the air box for them, i also asked them , what do you have for a
DR-SE to boost power , he said a carb upgrade for $278 ( pumper) carb, jetted,
ready to go.
He did not mentioned anything g about JX needle, I will call them again on that
or maybe check with Thumper.
Thanks all for the reply on that issue.

George

Kurt Simpson wrote:

> > I had similar problems & sent minne to Cycle Gear & got the magic air box.
> >All was well when it returned. This was on a 94 & was done in 95 or 96.
> >Happy Trails
> >Tim
>
> my understanding is that Cycle Gear now longer makes the magic box ...
>
> Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 15 Apr 1999 19:43:02 PDT

Earlier today, I said that I took my stock 95 SE and cut off the whole
top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked (so much hesitation
over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a K&N filter and, here is
the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring recommended/sold
by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necessary.  On the next ride,
things were much better, and I was seeing pretty much seamless power
at all revs....or so I thought.  Today I rode more, and I still think
it could run better....still seems to be a little lean.  And when I
was riding some off-road trails/hills, the throttle wasnt nearly as
responsive as the long revving, smooth shifting hiway spin I did the
other day.  And of course there is the substantial, predictable
popping on deceleration every time I slow down.

I seem to recall seeing alot of folks on this list saying the JX
needle/spring was the only thing they needed.  Can I get a little head
count here?  Please indicate, with or without comments, which of the
following scenarios applies to you:

ABSN: I did airbox/filter mods with just the spring/needle fix

ABSNJ: I did airbox/filter mods, and went a step further & changed
main and/or pilot jets in addition to the spring/needle fix

ABESN: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with just the
spring/needle fix

ABESNJ: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with the
spring/needle fix and jetting changes

OTHER:  Any combination not mentioned above

I guess the above should only apply to SE owners, as the dirt-only
carb is a whole different ballgame.

I will keep track of how many "votes" each of the above options
receive and post the results after a few days.

Bryan in Dallas

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Harald Glass <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mods and Mission Irrelevent
Date: 15 Apr 1999 23:34:13 -0400


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Bryan Nolastword wrote:

> Earlier today, I said that I took my stock 95 SE and cut off the whole
> top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked (so much hesitation
> over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a K&N filter and, here is
> the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring recommended/sold
> by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necess

blah, blah, blah...

I don't get it:

RIDE the the damn thing STOCK,
look after the scoot's vital needs,
get smooth and good,
and then, when your abilty outstrips your mount's limitations
get a KTM or Cannondale MX400, period!!
...why do the factory's shoddy R&D on YOUR Visa and time away
from the dirt?

John Penton would ride a pretty much stock
BMW R26 TO the JackPine, IN the JackPine for two days,
and BACK HOME, without whining about some
missing Shnuba Kuba Earl"s Fork link or a leaky Bing.

A certain Mr. Bates used to market a METHANE carburator adaptor
to run your infernar combustion engine on fermented chicken shit.
Now there's a handicap that would separate the boys from the men:
put your needle anywhwere it feels good and sweet.

Perhaps I'm missing the point of this list.

Try www.cannondale.com
...more than mountain bikes, for sure.

Respectfully,
HPG
Your methanedist in Millbrook, ON. CA.
"Beans do more than Milton can
To justify God's ways to Men"





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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<i><font size=-1>Bryan Nolastword wrote:</font></i>
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><i><font size=-1>Earlier today, I said that I took
my stock 95 SE and cut off the whole</font></i>
<br><i><font size=-1>top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked
(so much hesitation</font></i>
<br><i><font size=-1>over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a
K&N filter and, here is</font></i>
<br><i><font size=-1>the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring
recommended/sold</font></i>
<br><i><font size=-1>by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necess</font></i></blockquote>
<font size=+1>blah, blah, blah...</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>I don't get it:</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>RIDE the the damn thing STOCK,</font>
<br><font size=+1>look after the scoot's vital needs,</font>
<br><font size=+1>get smooth and good,</font>
<br><font size=+1>and then, when your abilty outstrips your mount's limitations</font>
<br><font size=+1>get a KTM or Cannondale MX400, period!!</font>
<br><font size=+1>...why do the factory's shoddy R&D on YOUR Visa and
time away</font>
<br><font size=+1>from the dirt?</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>John Penton would ride a pretty much stock</font>
<br><font size=+1>BMW R26 TO the JackPine, IN the JackPine for two days,</font>
<br><font size=+1>and BACK HOME, without whining about some</font>
<br><font size=+1>missing Shnuba Kuba Earl"s Fork link or a leaky Bing.</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>A certain Mr. Bates used to market a METHANE carburator
adaptor</font>
<br><font size=+1>to run your infernar combustion engine on fermented chicken
shit.</font>
<br><font size=+1>Now there's a handicap that would separate the boys from
the men:</font>
<br><font size=+1>put your needle anywhwere it feels good and sweet.</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>Perhaps I'm missing the point of this list.</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>Try www.cannondale.com</font>
<br><font size=+1>...more than mountain bikes, for sure.</font><font size=+1></font>
<p><font size=+1>Respectfully,</font>
<br><font size=+1>HPG</font>
<br><font size=+1>Your methanedist in Millbrook, ON. CA.</font>
<br><font size=+1>"Beans do more than Milton can</font>
<br><font size=+1>To justify God's ways to Men"</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br> </html>

--------------7E58ACECC30BBAB432F802DF--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mods and Mission Irrelevent
Date: 15 Apr 1999 22:02:37 -0600

>I don't get it:
>Perhaps I'm missing the point of this list.


Harold, indeed, I think you are missing the point of this list and perhaps it isn't a
good fit for you. This list and every other motorycle list on the web is an
enthusiast's list where people enjoy sharing their experience with their
bikes..tweaking this...changing that...this list happens to be about tweaking and
playing with the DR350, I can't imagine what you think the point of this list is
other than that and frankly don't care.

If this post was in jest use a smily next time, otherwise say goodbye before I say it
for you...if you have a problem with my response post it offline to me personally.

Kurt Simpson (List Administrator)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 15 Apr 1999 23:13:43 -0600

>I have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire . .. .

I have been using Pirelli MT 21 tires for some time.  I really like the tire
on dirt and gravel roads - very predictable traction.  Reasonable mileage
for a knobbie.  Throws off mud pretty well.  For better traction in the
mud - lower the tire pressure to about 12 psi.

Because I put most of my miles are high speed on gravel and dirt roads, I
get only about 1500 miles per rear tire.  Its performance really degrades
after about 1200 miles, as the knobs wear down to less than 50% height.  (I
think tires wear about twice as fast on gravel as pavement.)

Last year, I inadvertantly replaced the rear tire with a bigger size -
120/90 - instead of standard -110/80.  The tire pattern is the same, but the
larger tire has fewer (21 versus 25), larger (1/2 inch tall versus 3/8 inch)
knobs , spaced farther apart.   Not really that much bigger - it fits fine.
Looks like I'll get 2000 miles out of it.

I really noticed a change in the bike's handling with the bigger tire.  The
larger tire produced a speed wobble that was very disconcerting, with a
frequency of about 1-2 per second.  I stopped during my ride and dialed in
more preload on the front forks, and let some air out (I ended up about 18
psi).  That fixed the wobble.  Once compensated for, the bigger tire works
fine.

When futzing with suspension, don't forget to consider how much tires effect
handling.  TW







-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mods and Mission Irrelevent
Date: 16 Apr 1999 05:26:31 PDT

I got yer "blah blah" hangin', Harry!

Hell, why be on the list at all if all you need to do is just ride?
If you think my "survey" idea is stupid, fine.  But maybe alot of
people on the list like to screw with their bikes, like to learn from
others' trial & error, and dont want to buy up to a better bike even
if $ is not an issue (just described myself).  When I get done with
all the crap I'm gonna do to mine, it will bear little resemblence to
a stock DR350.  And I will enjoy the process of doing it.

Contrary to what you say in your closing, your reply was anything but
respectful, and yeah, you missed the point!

Bryan in Dallas


>From: Harald Glass <[e-mail]>
>To: Bryan Nolastname <[e-mail]>
>CC: [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Mods and Mission Irrelevent
>Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:34:13 -0400
>
>Bryan Nolastword wrote:
>
>> Earlier today, I said that I took my stock 95 SE and cut off the
whole
>> top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked (so much
hesitation
>> over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a K&N filter and, here
is
>> the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring
recommended/sold
>> by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necess
>
>blah, blah, blah...
>
>I don't get it:
>
>RIDE the the damn thing STOCK,
>look after the scoot's vital needs,
>get smooth and good,
>and then, when your abilty outstrips your mount's limitations
>get a KTM or Cannondale MX400, period!!
>...why do the factory's shoddy R&D on YOUR Visa and time away
>from the dirt?
>
>John Penton would ride a pretty much stock
>BMW R26 TO the JackPine, IN the JackPine for two days,
>and BACK HOME, without whining about some
>missing Shnuba Kuba Earl"s Fork link or a leaky Bing.
>
>A certain Mr. Bates used to market a METHANE carburator adaptor
>to run your infernar combustion engine on fermented chicken shit.
>Now there's a handicap that would separate the boys from the men:
>put your needle anywhwere it feels good and sweet.
>
>Perhaps I'm missing the point of this list.
>
>Try www.cannondale.com
>...more than mountain bikes, for sure.
>
>Respectfully,
>HPG
>Your methanedist in Millbrook, ON. CA.
>"Beans do more than Milton can
>To justify God's ways to Men"
>
>
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 16 Apr 1999 09:18:28 -0700

Bryan Nolastname wrote:
>
> Earlier today, I said that I took my stock 95 SE and cut off the whole
> top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked (so much hesitation
> over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a K&N filter and, here is
> the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring recommended/sold
> by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necessary.  On the next ride,
> things were much better, and I was seeing pretty much seamless power
> at all revs....or so I thought.  Today I rode more, and I still think
> it could run better....still seems to be a little lean.  And when I
> was riding some off-road trails/hills, the throttle wasnt nearly as
> responsive as the long revving, smooth shifting hiway spin I did the
> other day.  And of course there is the substantial, predictable
> popping on deceleration every time I slow down.
>
> I seem to recall seeing alot of folks on this list saying the JX
> needle/spring was the only thing they needed.  Can I get a little head
> count here?  Please indicate, with or without comments, which of the
> following scenarios applies to you:
>
> ABSN: I did airbox/filter mods with just the spring/needle fix
>
> ABSNJ: I did airbox/filter mods, and went a step further & changed
> main and/or pilot jets in addition to the spring/needle fix
>
> ABESN: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with just the
> spring/needle fix
>
> ABESNJ: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with the
> spring/needle fix and jetting changes
>
> OTHER:  Any combination not mentioned above

  I've just done the pulling of the plug on the top of the airbox with
no other changes.  Bike still starts easily even after a fall over.  I
ride in elevations that range from 1000' to 3000'.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 16 Apr 1999 09:23:18 -0700

  Thanks for the info Tom.  You've pretty much confirmed my experience
with knobbies on pavement also.  You didn't mention it, but I assume you
have put on rim locks.  I find that I have to "dial in" the front tire
pressure to avoid high speed wobble also.  Right now I'm running Dunlops
that are not DOT approved.  Looks like I'm looking for some MT-21's.
Anyone know of a good sale?

Tom Warr wrote:
>
> >I have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire . .. .
>
> I have been using Pirelli MT 21 tires for some time.  I really like the tire
> on dirt and gravel roads - very predictable traction.  Reasonable mileage
> for a knobbie.  Throws off mud pretty well.  For better traction in the
> mud - lower the tire pressure to about 12 psi.
>
> Because I put most of my miles are high speed on gravel and dirt roads, I
> get only about 1500 miles per rear tire.  Its performance really degrades
> after about 1200 miles, as the knobs wear down to less than 50% height.  (I
> think tires wear about twice as fast on gravel as pavement.)
>
> Last year, I inadvertantly replaced the rear tire with a bigger size -
> 120/90 - instead of standard -110/80.  The tire pattern is the same, but the
> larger tire has fewer (21 versus 25), larger (1/2 inch tall versus 3/8 inch)
> knobs , spaced farther apart.   Not really that much bigger - it fits fine.
> Looks like I'll get 2000 miles out of it.
>
> I really noticed a change in the bike's handling with the bigger tire.  The
> larger tire produced a speed wobble that was very disconcerting, with a
> frequency of about 1-2 per second.  I stopped during my ride and dialed in
> more preload on the front forks, and let some air out (I ended up about 18
> psi).  That fixed the wobble.  Once compensated for, the bigger tire works
> fine.
>
> When futzing with suspension, don't forget to consider how much tires effect
> handling.  TW

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Brian Luttman" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 16 Apr 1999 11:29:00 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I only pulled plug from airbox.  I have also test rode it with the side
cover removed and had no problems.  I am not brave enough to leave the side
cover off permanently.




Brian Luttman
1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100)
Arlington, Texas
[e-mail]


------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE87FC.52E06AA0
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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<P><FONT size=3D2>I only pulled plug from airbox.  I have also test =
rode it=20
with the side cover removed and had no problems.  I am not brave =
enough to=20
leave the side cover off permanently.<BR><BR><BR></P>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Handwriting" size=3D5>Brian =
Luttman</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Lucida Handwriting" size=3D5></FONT>1994 DR350SE (For =
Sale=20
$2100)</DIV>
<DIV>Arlington, Texas</DIV>
<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D4>[e-mail]</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE87FC.52E06AA0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) further carb mods; is there a fuel adj screw?
Date: 16 Apr 1999 19:58:08 PDT

Today I talked to Thumper Racing (TR) about my lean problem after
having opened up the airbox, installed K&N, and installed TR's JX
spring & needle.  Since I said I had alot of popping on
deceleration now, & have a MegaMaxII exhaust can on the way here, they
recommended going 1 size larger on both the pilot and main
jets....stock 127.5 main to a 130, and stock 30 pilot to a 40.  I
found these jets locally, installed them in about 45 minutes from
start to finish after work this afternoon, and here is result:

WOW! bike is alot faster/stronger everywhere in the revs.  All poping
on deceleration is gone.  Sounds great.  Only thing is....I suspect it
might be running a little rich, as I can see/smell some exhaust fumes
that werent there before when it is idleing, and it idles just a tad
rough.  Maybe I need to increase idle speed a little higher from the
recommended 1500 rpms now that I've got different jets?

The only other carb I'd ever been into was off the XR650L I owned
briefly recently.  It had a tab you could grind away w/ a dremel tool
and then be able to adjust ??fuel mixture??  cant remember exactly
what it was, but it was external on the carb, and it was not the idle
speed adj.  They said exactly how many turns to go out from full in,
and that sucker ran perfect from the first time with their jet kit and
recommended fuel mixture setting.  I didn't see such a thing on the
carb of my DR350SE...did I miss it?  Is it something to fine-tune
instead of automatically changing jet sizes when you're lean or rich?

Bryan in Dallas



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Grips
Date: 16 Apr 1999 23:06:19 EDT

 Has any one tried to change the grips on their DR? I ran int a problem when
I tried to remove the throttle grip. It turns out the grip is permanently
bonded to the throttle sleeve. I went down to the Suzuki dealer to find out
how much a new sleeve would cost and learned that the grip and sleeve are
sold as a one piece unit ($14.99). Well, since I don't like the stock grips
and I had already paid for a kickin set of 909s I decided to try and whittle
of the old grips. After a couple of hours of cutting (my hands and the grips)
I got most of the rubber of. Then I used the wire wheel on my bench grinder
to clean it up. It turned out OK but I would like to know if anyone out there
has figured out a better way to do this or knows of an after market sleeve.

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) further carb mods; is there a fuel adj screw?
Date: 16 Apr 1999 22:17:06 -0500

Yes , i belive i saw the idle mixter adjuster , at the bottom of the carb
but it is caped of.
you need to remove the cap to get to it , it is kind of a temper proofing
thing.

George

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> Today I talked to Thumper Racing (TR) about my lean problem after
> having opened up the airbox, installed K&N, and installed TR's JX
> spring & needle.  Since I said I had alot of popping on
> deceleration now, & have a MegaMaxII exhaust can on the way here, they
> recommended going 1 size larger on both the pilot and main
> jets....stock 127.5 main to a 130, and stock 30 pilot to a 40.  I
> found these jets locally, installed them in about 45 minutes from
> start to finish after work this afternoon, and here is result:
>
> WOW! bike is alot faster/stronger everywhere in the revs.  All poping
> on deceleration is gone.  Sounds great.  Only thing is....I suspect it
> might be running a little rich, as I can see/smell some exhaust fumes
> that werent there before when it is idleing, and it idles just a tad
> rough.  Maybe I need to increase idle speed a little higher from the
> recommended 1500 rpms now that I've got different jets?
>
> The only other carb I'd ever been into was off the XR650L I owned
> briefly recently.  It had a tab you could grind away w/ a dremel tool
> and then be able to adjust ??fuel mixture??  cant remember exactly
> what it was, but it was external on the carb, and it was not the idle
> speed adj.  They said exactly how many turns to go out from full in,
> and that sucker ran perfect from the first time with their jet kit and
> recommended fuel mixture setting.  I didn't see such a thing on the
> carb of my DR350SE...did I miss it?  Is it something to fine-tune
> instead of automatically changing jet sizes when you're lean or rich?
>
> Bryan in Dallas
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) further carb mods; is there a fuel adj screw?
Date: 16 Apr 1999 22:13:43 -0600



>Yes , i belive i saw the idle mixter adjuster , at the bottom of the carb
>but it is caped of.
>you need to remove the cap to get to it , it is kind of a temper proofing
>thing.
>
>George


on the KLR's we drill a small hole just barely through the cap and then put a self-tapping
screw to loosen the plug...the pilot jet screw is then accessible.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 17 Apr 1999 00:59:31 -0400

I have a 90 DRS I bought used. The plug is removed from the top of the air
box and very many 7/16" holes are drilled in the box. I taped shut the holes
on the sides but left the top open. The bike has a 150 main (stock is 135),
stock needle and pilot. It also has stock exhaust.  I feel that it runs
pretty well. Others have ridden the bike and said that the carburetion was
OK. This year we started our season early and I found that the bike really
likes 35 degree air temps. It was much stronger in the morning and would
loose its grunt as the day warmed up to 65 degrees. This would indicate that
I am a little rich. I ordered a JX needle and spring from Thumper today and
will let you know how they work out.
I 'm not positive but I think your 95 has a smaller main than the 90. I
believe it came with a 127.5 main. Check your Thumper catalog. I left mine
at work with my buddy who just bought a new WR400 to try to keep up in the
woods.
Good idea on the survey, I will be interested in the results.
Hope this is in the spirit of the list!
-----Original Message-----


>Earlier today, I said that I took my stock 95 SE and cut off the whole
>top of the box, ran it for a while, and it sucked (so much hesitation
>over 5K it was ridiculous).  Then I put in a K&N filter and, here is
>the important thing, I added the JX needle & spring recommended/sold
>by Thumper Racing as the only carb mod necessary.  On the next ride,
>things were much better, and I was seeing pretty much seamless power
>at all revs....or so I thought.  Today I rode more, and I still think
>it could run better....still seems to be a little lean.  And when I
>was riding some off-road trails/hills, the throttle wasnt nearly as
>responsive as the long revving, smooth shifting hiway spin I did the
>other day.  And of course there is the substantial, predictable
>popping on deceleration every time I slow down.
>
>I seem to recall seeing alot of folks on this list saying the JX
>needle/spring was the only thing they needed.  Can I get a little head
>count here?  Please indicate, with or without comments, which of the
>following scenarios applies to you:
>
>ABSN: I did airbox/filter mods with just the spring/needle fix
>
>ABSNJ: I did airbox/filter mods, and went a step further & changed
>main and/or pilot jets in addition to the spring/needle fix
>
>ABESN: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with just the
>spring/needle fix
>
>ABESNJ: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with the
>spring/needle fix and jetting changes
>
>OTHER:  Any combination not mentioned above
>
>I guess the above should only apply to SE owners, as the dirt-only
>carb is a whole different ballgame.
>
>I will keep track of how many "votes" each of the above options
>receive and post the results after a few days.
>
>Bryan in Dallas
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) RE: Grips
Date: 16 Apr 1999 22:16:42 -0700

I discovered the same thing on my 94.  Sounds like you probably cleaned
yours up with the wire wheel pretty good.  I just whittled away at the
rubber with a razor blade for a hour or more.  Seems to have worked,
because I am now on my third set of replacement grips and the sleeve still
is fine.  I am now using Pro Grips.  They are sort of a softer rubber.
 Looks like they will help prevent blisters that I seem to get every now
and then with the type of riding I do, lots of trails stuff where I hold on
for dear life.  Mike Walburn uses them and recommended them to me.


Doug B
Tacoma, WA

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, April 16, 1999 8:06 PM

 Has any one tried to change the grips on their DR? I ran int a problem
when
I tried to remove the throttle grip. It turns out the grip is permanently
bonded to the throttle sleeve. I went down to the Suzuki dealer to find out
how much a new sleeve would cost and learned that the grip and sleeve are
sold as a one piece unit ($14.99). Well, since I don't like the stock grips
and I had already paid for a kickin set of 909s I decided to try and
whittle
of the old grips. After a couple of hours of cutting (my hands and the
grips)
I got most of the rubber of. Then I used the wire wheel on my bench grinder
to clean it up. It turned out OK but I would like to know if anyone out
there
has figured out a better way to do this or knows of an after market sleeve.

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 16 Apr 1999 22:28:53 -0700

I have been running MT-21's since 95 and have always usedthe 120 on the
rear.  Most other DR owners run the 120 as well.  Most shops stock only the
120. I run about 14 PSI front and rear for dirt, gravel, trail etc.


Doug B
Tacoma, WA

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Friday, April 16, 1999 9:23 AM

  Thanks for the info Tom.  You've pretty much confirmed my experience
with knobbies on pavement also.  You didn't mention it, but I assume you
have put on rim locks.  I find that I have to "dial in" the front tire
pressure to avoid high speed wobble also.  Right now I'm running Dunlops
that are not DOT approved.  Looks like I'm looking for some MT-21's.
Anyone know of a good sale?

Tom Warr wrote:
>
> >I have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire . .. .
>
> I have been using Pirelli MT 21 tires for some time.  I really like the
tire
> on dirt and gravel roads - very predictable traction.  Reasonable mileage
> for a knobbie.  Throws off mud pretty well.  For better traction in the
> mud - lower the tire pressure to about 12 psi.
>
> Because I put most of my miles are high speed on gravel and dirt roads, I
> get only about 1500 miles per rear tire.  Its performance really degrades
> after about 1200 miles, as the knobs wear down to less than 50% height.
 (I
> think tires wear about twice as fast on gravel as pavement.)
>
> Last year, I inadvertantly replaced the rear tire with a bigger size -
> 120/90 - instead of standard -110/80.  The tire pattern is the same, but
the
> larger tire has fewer (21 versus 25), larger (1/2 inch tall versus 3/8
inch)
> knobs , spaced farther apart.   Not really that much bigger - it fits
fine.
> Looks like I'll get 2000 miles out of it.
>
> I really noticed a change in the bike's handling with the bigger tire.
 The
> larger tire produced a speed wobble that was very disconcerting, with a
> frequency of about 1-2 per second.  I stopped during my ride and dialed
in
> more preload on the front forks, and let some air out (I ended up about
18
> psi).  That fixed the wobble.  Once compensated for, the bigger tire
works
> fine.
>
> When futzing with suspension, don't forget to consider how much tires
effect
> handling.  TW

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 17 Apr 1999 07:07:03 -0600


>Good idea on the survey, I will be interested in the results.
>Hope this is in the spirit of the list!


Completely...

Kurt





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Karl Stingl" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 17 Apr 1999 09:01:17 -0600


I have a 91 DR350S... top cut out of the airbox... FMF Performax muffler (w/
quiet core and 6 discs)... I run a 137.5 main (1 size above stock) a JX
needle and spring... all my riding is done at 5,000 feet and above... Am
very happy with all the changes I have made.

The larger jet has made the bike run quite a bit cooler and easier to start
when it is hot... I also removed the cap covering the fuel adjust screw
(drilled a hole in it and used a screw to pull it out) and then installed a
Scotts T-handle adjustment screw to make adjustments easier while riding (a
good purchase)... I have found that by keeping the carb adjusted to the
conditions (altitude, temperature, etc...) the slow speed handling is much
more steady and predictable... Scotts also sells a tool to make valve
adjustments easier.

Has anybody changed to a dirt only carburetor, and Edelbrock, or any other
carb? I am just wondering what performance gain can be realized my making
the switch.

Karl

Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain, and most fools do.
-Ben Franklin




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 17 Apr 1999 11:08:01 -0500 (CDT)



>I am new to the group and this may have already been mentioned but here
>is what would be helpful when considering the Kouba Link.
>I  weigh 190, have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire and heavier wt Progressive
>springs front and rear.
>The back tire bottoms severely in airbox/inner front fender area. Norm
>says 5.10 is too big. Also IMHO the progressive part of the PS spring is
>still too soft and a straight would should be used. I know that PS is
>popular with DR riders( I like them too) but this should be considered
>along with tire size ( I have used as  large as 5.30 Chen Shin before).
>The links are great , just thought someone might need to know if they
>have a similar setup and are going to buy the Kouba.
>BTW can the rear spring be removed and changed w/o a special tool? The
>shop did it the first tie but would like to do it myself if possible.
>Thanks,
>      Jim A.
>      90DRS
>
>
>
>
>
Jim:
  To change the rear spring, put the bike on a center stand, remove the
seat, side panels.  Remove the bolts holding the links on and remove the
links.  Remove the top and bottom shock mounting bolts and the two resevoir
mount bolts. Block the rear wheel up approx 8" and the shock, spring, and
resevoir will come out the bottom.  Everything is the same when you put it
back on only in reverse order.  To get the spring off the shock,  tap the
jam nut loose with a dull chisel ( I use a piece of 1/4" key stock and
ground round on one end) then oil the threads and the bottom "C" retainers,
and hand turn the spring and remaining nut untill loose enough to remove the
two "C" retainers that are inside of the bell type collar at the bottom of
the spring.   Install the new spring in reverse order and tighten up the
spring retaining nuts untill the spring is preloaded about 16mm.  That will
get you close to the 2.5" of sag. After its ALL back together put all of the
normal luggage on the bike or the equivilent weight, stand on the pegs in
full riding gear and set the sag at 2.5"-3.0" by either tightening or
loosening the spring retaining nuts.  Sag being the amount the rear axel
moves vertically between no weight and loaded as described above.   Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage
Date: 17 Apr 1999 14:46:25 -0600

>You've pretty much confirmed my experience
>with knobbies on pavement  .  .  You didn't mention it, but I assume >you
have put on rim locks.

No rim locks.  No problems so far, either with my DRS350 or my KTM 620
(knock on wood).  The rim locks make it difficult to balance the tire.

Note my riding is generally at higher speeds, blasting across Montana
countryside's dirt and gravel roads.

TW





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Harald Glass <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) To Rim Lock or Not To Rim Lock
Date: 17 Apr 1999 17:51:46 -0400

Tom Warr wrote:

> >You've pretty much confirmed my experience
> >with knobbies on pavement  .  .  You didn't mention it, but I assume >you
> have put on rim locks.
>
>  The rim locks make it difficult to balance the tire.

I second that observation!

Perhaps I'm stating the obvious, but "staking" the rim where it mates with the
bead more radically than some alu rims come from the factory, helps to keep the
tire in place and the
valve stem straight.

Take a sharp wood chisel (may Herr Burkhardt, the shop teacher spin in his
grave)
and throw a nice furrow or barb every 4 inches facing in both directions on the
rear,
only "biting" in the braking direction for the front rim.  That locks the bead
firmly unto
the rim down to 10 psi tire pressure, even after mud and water crossings, and
provides extra insurance at high pressure, high speed blow outs: you get a few
extra seconds before things get really wobbly.

Big CAVEAT: change innertubes VERY carefully (limply inflated and bathed in corn
starch)
and keep a few band aids handy, just in case.  Then hone wood chisel to Benno
Burkhardt's specs and return it to the wood working drawer as if nothing
happened.

Cheers,
Harald in Millbrook
still haunted by my dead teachers




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Re: dr350 carb mod survey
Date: 17 Apr 1999 22:56:24 -0400 (EDT)

I use a 34 mm flatslide Mikuni (White Bros) with their 385 kit. If
anyone else uses this carb I would be interested in your jetting specs.
I find this carb picky about the jetting, very temp dependent.
                           Jim A.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Valve lash settings?
Date: 18 Apr 1999 12:23:24 -0400

Anyone know the lash specs for the valve on a 94 dr350se?  Do I adjust
them hot or cold?  Thanks!
PJ



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Valve lash settings?
Date: 18 Apr 1999 11:09:33 -0600



>Anyone know the lash specs for the valve on a 94 dr350se?  Do I adjust
>them hot or cold?  Thanks!
>PJ


stone cold...

intake 0.05-0.10 mm or .002 - .004 "

exhaust 0.17 - 0.22 mm or .007-.009"

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tire changing question..
Date: 18 Apr 1999 11:19:28 -0600

I've got my rear tire off and am changing it out. The tube came out with two 12mm nuts one on
the inside of the wheel one on the outside of the wheel. Is the one on the inside supposed to
be there or is it a remnant of someone who forgot to take it off before?

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tire changing question..
Date: 18 Apr 1999 11:41:27 -0600


----- Original Message -----
<[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 11:19 AM


> I've got my rear tire off and am changing it out. The tube came out with
two 12mm nuts one on
> the inside of the wheel one on the outside of the wheel. Is the one on the
inside supposed to
> be there or is it a remnant of someone who forgot to take it off before?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kurt
>
>
>

Hi Kurt,

The nut on the inside is the one that holds the tube to the valve stem.
Some bikes use a nut on the outside to hold the valve stem to the rim (which
I don't think is a good idea) and for sealing the gap around the valve stem
to keep dirt and water out.  My XR has a larger hole in the rim for the
valve stem and a rubber cover over the gap.  This will let the valve stem
move around some without pulling it out of the tube.

You only need one nut on the inside and check it to make sure it is snug.

Fred




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question
Date: 18 Apr 1999 19:51:25 EDT

   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question
Date: 18 Apr 1999 19:40:36 -0600



>   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
>Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
>pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?
>
>Thanks
>Mike A.
>Nashville


I'm pretty sure 142 psi is spec...what year is your bike...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question
Date: 18 Apr 1999 19:56:12 -0600


----- Original Message -----
<[e-mail]>; 'DR350 list' <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 7:40 PM


>
>
> >   I am in the process of replacing the shock spring and installing Kouba
> >Links on my off road DR. While doing this I decided to check my nitrogen
> >pressure. I have 106.5 lbs. Does anyone know if this is on spec?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Mike A.
> >Nashville
>
>
> I'm pretty sure 142 psi is spec...what year is your bike...
>
> Kurt
>
>
>


It is probably not a good idea to check your rear shock pressure.  The
quantity of nitrogen gas inside the shock is very small and checking it will
lose alot of it.  If you suspect your gas pressure is low take it to a shop
that will refill your shock and have them recharge it to the specified
pressure.  Cost for this is minimal.
It is also under very high pressure and most regular tire guages won't read
this high.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question
Date: 18 Apr 1999 20:35:35 -0700

I agree with what Fred says below.  My local shop will re-charge for $5.

BTW, I'm just in the process of re-valving my shock, and it is unbelievable
how filthy and disgusting the shock (and fork) oil gets after just a couple
years.  I will definitely be replacing my suspension fluids yearly from now
on.

MX Tuner has a nice article in this month's Off Road magazine.  IMO, this is
a good start for anyone who is interested in working on their shock:

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/mar99/db101/db101shock.html

I found getting into the DR shock less complicated than the YZ shock shown.
And the forks are even easier.

Bryan
'96 DR441

>
> It is probably not a good idea to check your rear shock pressure.  The
> quantity of nitrogen gas inside the shock is very small and checking it will
> lose alot of it.  If you suspect your gas pressure is low take it to a shop
> that will refill your shock and have them recharge it to the specified
> pressure.  Cost for this is minimal.
> It is also under very high pressure and most regular tire guages won't read
> this high.
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Nitrogen Question
Date: 19 Apr 1999 07:15:09 EDT

  Thank you all for your advice. Kurt, my DR is a 95.

Thanks
Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) White plains NY
Date: 19 Apr 1999 09:50:00 -0400

I was emailing back and forth with a guy from White plains NY who was
looking for places to ride with his son. I can't remember his name, but I
think he's on this list.
Could you email me. I have something I want to email to you

thanks,
Nick



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]
Date: 19 Apr 1999 08:55:05 -0600


>From: "Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: help with misaligned stem/fork
>Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:54:01 EDT
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-type: text/plain
>
>Hi everyone
>
> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?
>
>thanks
>Bryant
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member
Date: 19 Apr 1999 08:19:43 -0700


> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?

I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
straighten things back out.

In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.

Bryan
'96 DR441



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]
Date: 19 Apr 1999 09:33:59 -0600


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 9:19 AM
submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]


>
> > I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
> >I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
> >that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
> >wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
> >that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
> >bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
> >somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?
>
> I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
> end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
> straighten things back out.
>
> In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
> ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.
>
> Bryan
> '96 DR441
>
>

Loosen only the upper triple clamp or you will have a "DR Low Rider"
Straddle the front wheel and move your handlebars where you think they are
straight.  Be sure and tighten both the upper and lower triple clamps and
check them from time to time to be sure they stay tight.

Fred Hink
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
         Arrowhead Motorsports
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/
435-259-7356  Fax [phone]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:30:00 -0400
Date: 19 Apr 1999 09:31:49 -0600

I wouldn't say that this is a dr thing. It's happened on all my bikes after
I take a hard fall, or the bike take a hard hit to the ground. Just put the
bike up on a stand. Loosen all the triple clamp bolts and then after they
are all loose. tighten them back up and the problem should be solved. It's
better for the front end to twist then bend.

I argued for a half day with a guy once. After he took a spill, he kept
complaining Oh man, I bent a fork. Finally after me almost forcing him by
actually stopping on the trail and taking tools out. he loosend everything,
then tightend and problem solved.

Nick
 ----------
submission from ["Bryant Wang" <[e-mail]>]


> I was out crusing today ,to see if the engine was doing good after
>I performed my first ever valve clearance adjustment, and I noticed
>that my handle bar was crooked. I was tracking straight but the bar
>wasn't perpendicular with the bike! As I inspected futher I noticed
>that it was my whole triple clamp/stem was crooked too.My bar isn't
>bent, one fork leg is foward. I figure the front wheel is on wrong
>somehow. Can Anyone help me corrct this?

I believe that this is simply a result of the DR's less-than-solid front
end.  If you loosen the triple clamp bolts, you should be able to easily
straighten things back out.

In the future, a stronger set of triple clamps should help this -- the
ultimate fix would be to go with an RMX front-end.

Bryan
'96 DR441



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
Date: 19 Apr 1999 11:33:50 -0500 (CDT)


 rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895

My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose.  After a while the crank
case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.

I took the carb apart and cleaned it.  Checked the float level.  In my
minimal experience it looks to be ok.  Obviously not!  Any ideas what would
cause this on this particular bike?  Thanks in advance.

Scott

Scott:  The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or something in
it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on.  If that was the case, one can
just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb, turn fuel
back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb dissambly.
You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the carb drain,
open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up alongside
the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb seam, or
slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is staight up and
down.  This will also let you know if the float itself is taking on gas or
is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a month, it is a
good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float bowl
internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member of the
newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where to get a
subscription.  They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope this
helps.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Cheap knee braces!!
Date: 19 Apr 1999 10:48:32 -0700

John & Others,

I tried several types of these less-expensive brands, and decided to go without
as the backside of the knee becomes irritated from the rubbing of the material
against the skin; it's most noticed while seated. The CTIs and like are out as
they push the knees outward, away from the tank, giving that "riding a torpedo"
feel.

John

I just got a set of inexpensive knee braces. Bought them at Big 5 Sporting
Goods for about $30 each. They are made of neophrene and have sturdy aluminum
hinged bracing along each side. If anyone is interested I will supply the
manufacturer.. Since they weren't specifically designed for dirt biking they
tend to rub a little when you are sitting. Otherwise they are quite good. I
use them under standard knee/shin guard protectors.

John f.










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) pro taper bars
Date: 19 Apr 1999 10:57:19 -0700

Nick,

After a 20-year layoff, I decided to enter an enduro. I have ProTapers & a dirt
DR, so the light switch/turn signal/etc. mount is not a problem for me.

I fastened the Link narrow roll chart between the decomp. clutch levers, with
enough space left for the kill button between the roll chart knobs. The
extra-large digits stop watch is mounted on the bar base between the two
perches. And the backup bicycle computer is on the right.

Hope this helps.

John

Snip...
Also, with no cross bar, where do you mount the route sheet holder and for
my occasional enduro, the clock and electric odometer ?
Snip...

Anyone got any input ?

Nick






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Should I buy a DR?
Date: 19 Apr 1999 11:16:13 -0700

Tony,

I have ridden both the 650 and the 400 recently; all of the comments will be vs.
my dirt DR.

The 650 is quite tall and heavy, but does not feel that way once underway,
except in mud or tight trails, woods, and sand whoops. It does better than the
other two in high-speed desert conditions and on the road though. A real tractor
and a good DP mount for more road/open trails. Fits taller folks well.

The 400 has a nicer slim feel, aggressive sitting position, and better stock
suspension settings, slightly easier to turn, but no real noticeable gain in
power; rather uninspiring. The DR makes better bottom but the 400 will rev
further, stock. When the 400 woner and I switched, we agreed my 441 would light
up the rear tire & throw roost while the 400 hooked up a little better in the
dirt but got left behind when traction was halfway decent. I'd say the 400 is
better off road, stock for stock, if you are a more agressive type.

The stock DRES is heavy (close to the 650), soft and cushy, good for exlporing.
If you want to go fast you can upgrade it later but if you are leaning toward
dirt performance, the dirt version or the 400 is a better choice.

John


I'm looking for the best dual sport bike and the DR350(SE) seem just
about the best, but for all you experienced owners - some questions.

The dirt only version sure seems better than the SE (50 lbs, pumper
carb, etc), but I need a street legal bike.  Does the dirt only version
have enough stator to run street lights?  Is it geared high enough to do
70 mph for awhile without infernoizing?

Also, I know everyone loves their bikes, but if you had it to do over
again would you try to come up with the extra cash to buy an XR400 and
legalize it, or a XR650L instead of the DR?

I want a bike that will wheelie and roost, be agile on the trail, and
keep up on the highway to the next trail.  I know this is like asking
for gain and bandwidth on an amp design, but what bike represents the
best compromise of dirt worthiness and road readiness?  I've been riding
a Yamaha TW200 for 2 years-great fun, but I have REALLY outgrown it.

Thanks for the help!

--
Tony Kurth

*** NEW EMAIL ADDRESS IS: [e-mail] ***

Senior Junior Level Circuit Designer
Raytheon Systems
Dallas, Tx

972-344-3541
__________________________________________________

If it doesn't stall, you didn't fall!










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
Date: 19 Apr 1999 16:57:57 -0500

Hi,

Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
all the time.
The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that:  Not going to
happened.
If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
converted.
Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.

George




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
Date: 19 Apr 1999 16:02:23 -0600


>Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
>call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
>George


they may have just come in from milking the cows and listening to polka music (joke folks, I
love Wisconsin)...I would call Alan Roach at Baja Designs...he keeps track of this stuff pretty
closely....the other option is to get it registered in another state as a street bike and then
register it in Wisconsin...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Alan Mueller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) tires
Date: 19 Apr 1999 16:03:39 -0800

Hi,

I have a 98 Dr350SE with M21 Parrelli tires.  What do you all recommend
for tire pressure?

--
Alan M




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) tires
Date: 19 Apr 1999 19:12:50 -0600

Re:   Tire pressure

I use manufacturer's specs, which I think are 24 PSI, for highway and higher
speeds on gravel.  For trail riding, especially in mud, I lower the pressure
to about 15 psi.  TW





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:30:00 -0400
Date: 19 Apr 1999 19:13:15 -0600

Well, to be complete, you could also loosten the front axel.  Otherwise, I
agree with your comments.
TW






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
Date: 19 Apr 1999 21:22:41 -0400

George

Email me directly and I can forward you the info on how to do it. you MUST
have a certificate of origin from the dealer or you'll have a headache
getting the bike bonded to pull this off

Robert
Florida
-----Original Message-----


>Hi,
>
>Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
>model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
>all the time.
>The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that:  Not going to
>happened.
>If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
>converted.
>Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
>call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
>George
>
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
Date: 19 Apr 1999 20:47:48 -0700



[e-mail] wrote:

>  rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895
>
> My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose.  After a while the crank
> case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.
>
> I took the carb apart and cleaned it.  Checked the float level.  In my
> minimal experience it looks to be ok.  Obviously not!  Any ideas what would
> cause this on this particular bike?  Thanks in advance.
>
> Scott
>
> Scott:  The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or something in
> it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on.  If that was the case, one can
> just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb, turn fuel
> back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb dissambly.
> You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the carb drain,
> open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up alongside
> the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb seam, or
> slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is staight up and
> down.  This will also let you know if the float itself is taking on gas or
> is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a month, it is a
> good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float bowl
> internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member of the
> newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where to get a
> subscription.  They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope this
> helps.  Norm
>
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> DR. DR
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

DR S Models have a prime mode position on the fuel petcock as well as an on
position which is actvated by engine vacuum. Prime is to fill the carb that is
empty for
what ever reason. If left in prime position and a problem with the float
mechanism
exists, your problem of flooding the engine is very likley. In the on position
once
the engine is off the diaphragm on the fuel petcock shuts off making flooding
unlikley
hope this info.helps
[e-mail]_plus.net




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) tire sizes
Date: 20 Apr 1999 02:58:55 -0500

I'm about due to replace my current rear and was thinking that a 4.60 might
work better.  Was wondering if anyone has bumped their rear tire size to a
4.60 X 18 on their DR350ES?  The standard would be a 4.10 X 18.  Were their
any problems?  How did it work?  Thanks

Harral






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Float level adjustment??  (was: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
Date: 20 Apr 1999 04:55:08 PDT

Help me out here guys.  Since I've cut open my airbox & installed
K&Nfilter, I've had my carb off a few times recently putting in the
JX needle/spring, (didnt completely solve the hesitiation in higher
rpms) then richer pilot & main jets (BIG improvement, but idled
rough....prob a little too rich).

Sunday I was out practicing some jumps for an hour or so and was
realizing that the bike wasn't performing well just off idle under
hard acceleration (did my first completely-in-the-air
jump...cool!!).  Riding home, the bike was idleing even rougher, and
died at stoplights a few times.

So now I gotta go back into the carb, as this is now a reliability
issue.  One of the list members emailed me privately about his
similar experience and said the float level could be the problem.
The second time I had carb off, I completely yanked all the orange
plastic float assembly out to be able to get to the pilot jet.  I
only remember a little post like stud w/ an o-ring seal around the
base of it that held it into a hole.  I really dont see what can be
adjusted with regards to the float?!?!?!  Can anyone help me out here?

Also, the aforementioned list member, and one of the tech guys at
Thumper Racing, said that I could try to get rid of rough idleing and
poor low end performance by adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw.  I
remember seeing that little brass thing w/the pinhole in it, and will
drill it out & monkey with it.  Anyone adjusted this & can share
settings?

Thanks.  (this is an excellent list Kurt!)

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE
98 ZX-6R (for sale $6K)


jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail], [e-mail]
>Subject: Re: (dr350) Fwd: [Fwd: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
>Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:47:48 -0700
>
>
>
>[e-mail] wrote:
>
>>  rec.motorcycles.dirt:173895
>>
>> My '93 DR350s leaks fuel out the overflow hose.  After a while the
crank
>> case filled up with fuel and the bike wouldn't run anymore.
>>
>> I took the carb apart and cleaned it.  Checked the float level.
In my
>> minimal experience it looks to be ok.  Obviously not!  Any ideas
what would
>> cause this on this particular bike?  Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Scott:  The needle seat probably had a small piece of dirt or
something in
>> it, may want to put a inline fuel filter on.  If that was the
case, one can
>> just turn the fuel off, open the drain on the bottom of the carb,
turn fuel
>> back on momentarily, and that should flush it out with out carb
dissambly.
>> You can check the float level by attaching a clear hose to the
carb drain,
>> open the carb drain plug with the fuel on, hold the clear hose up
alongside
>> the float bowl, level in the hose should come up to the bowl-carb
seam, or
>> slightly below, with the bike level and assuming the carb is
staight up and
>> down.  This will also let you know if the float itself is taking
on gas or
>> is saturated with gas. Also if you store your bike for over a
month, it is a
>> good idea to drain the carb so varnish does not gume up the float
bowl
>> internals, including the needle and seat. If you are not a member
of the
>> newly established DR350 list, check the CC and you will know where
to get a
>> subscription.  They really have some good info on DR's there. Hope
this
>> helps.  Norm
>>
>> Suzuki DR Suspensions
>> DR. DR
>> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
>
>DR S Models have a prime mode position on the fuel petcock as well
as an on
>position which is actvated by engine vacuum. Prime is to fill the
carb that is
>empty for
>what ever reason. If left in prime position and a problem with the
float
>mechanism
>exists, your problem of flooding the engine is very likley. In the
on position
>once
>the engine is off the diaphragm on the fuel petcock shuts off making
flooding
>unlikley
>hope this info.helps
>[e-mail]_plus.net
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Float level adjustment??  (was: 93 DR350s overflow leaks]
Date: 20 Apr 1999 06:10:03 -0600

+AD4-So now I gotta go back into the carb, as this is now a reliability
+AD4-issue.  One of the list members emailed me privately about his
+AD4-similar experience and said the float level could be the problem.
+AD4-The second time I had carb off, I completely yanked all the orange
+AD4-plastic float assembly out to be able to get to the pilot jet.  I
+AD4-only remember a little post like stud w/ an o-ring seal around the
+AD4-base of it that held it into a hole.  I really dont see what can be
+AD4-adjusted with regards to the float?+ACE-?+ACE-?+ACE-  Can anyone help me out here?

Sure Brian, the author of this excellent primer on CV carbs is a guy named Redondo +ACI-Ron+ACI- +ACI-Man
of+ACI- La Mantia, he is quite capable but a little shy and lurks on this list. Page down about 3
or 4 screens and you get some great pics and a simple explanation of the float system...

http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html



Thanks for the good words on the list...we're off to a good start (104) listers in the first
month...but wait until we reach Woodstock proportions...+ACI-by the time we got to Woodstock we
were.....+ACI-

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: loren bohl <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Can it be Legalized?
Date: 20 Apr 1999 09:32:42 -0700

George Kovacs wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Just recently i tried to get some info on requirement to convert a dirt
> model bike, or enduro to street legal, so i don't have to trailer the
> all the time.
> The answer i got from the state of wisconsin is that:  Not going to
> happened.
> If it was not made for street from the manufacture, it cannot be
> converted.
> Does any body had a same response from the state or i just happened to
> call the person who does not know what the heck i was talking about.
>
> George


    If the state of wis consin does not have the correct V>I>N> number you
will not EVER get a liscence and registration for that motorcycle, Been
there tried that!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) New Member from Portugal - Claudio
Date: 20 Apr 1999 23:20:07 +0100

Hi guys,

I am new to this list so I will introduce myself to the list.

My name is Claudio, I am 25 years old, been riding bikes since I am
10, live in Lisbon (Portugal) and I am addicted to bikes !

I have been always the RR type of biker (I have owned an Aprilia
Futura, Honda CBR600F, Yamaha YZF1000R ThunderAce and currently own a
Yamaha YZF-R1) but last year I decided to buy a 1993 Suzuki DR350S
from a good friend of mine.

The bike only had 20.000 Km / 12.500 miles and its only problem was
some rust spots in the frame. The bike was completely stock.

I have already done some mods to it. Tomaselli handlebar, Renthal
Pro-grips, Polini Rally/Brush guards, Twin Air Filter and braided
stainless steel brake lines. I am using a rear Michelin Cross
Competion 120/90 - 18 and a front Michelin Enduro Competion 90/90 -
21. I have ordered a 12 teeth front sprocket from Renthal and I am
waiting for it.

I don't ride it on public roads, only use it for dirt riding, so I
took the mirrors, blinkers, license plate hanger all out.

I will take some pics of it and post it on my webpage.

Looking forward to receive some info about the DR.

Best Regards,

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with homepages
Date: 20 Apr 1999 23:35:37 +0100

Hi guys,

Just want to hear opinions of possible suspension set-ups for the
stock suspension of the '93 DR350S.

I only ride it off-road, mainly in sand and hard terrain.

The rear shock doesn't feel right. The rear is very unstable as It's
always jumping around. It hasn't bottomed yet (I have a lot of rear
preload, almost 3/4 to the harder setting).

I weight 180 lbs. / 82 Kgs fully geared.

I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.

I have a Twin Air Filter but haven't done any mod to the airbox. I
know a lot of DR owners cut the top of the standard airbox but as I
ride a lot in sand, won't that allow a lot of dirt/sand to get into
the engine ?

I also would like to know Links to companies that sell the Cycle Gear
Airbox and Supertrapp exhausts and that are willing to ship
internationally.

Also feel free to e-mail me links of off-road related sites.

Thanks in advance !

Best regards,

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with
Date: 20 Apr 1999 17:14:28 -0700

Claudio,

Hace mucho yo hablo espanol; con permission preferro engles este momento.

To resolve you're suspension woes you need the Kouba Links. Go here to get the
details: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/

As far as cutting the top of the airbox, it's tucked away nicely and takes air
from the front so you don't worry about debris intake.

The Cycle Gear (CG) Magic air box is not out of production (as rumored) but
rather out of stock (Thumper Racing's box is made by CGs). I talked w/ Bernard @
CG (707-747-0330) and he said the costs for guy who has been making it for years
has gone up to where CG feels it is out of range for the average DR owner, and
is looking for someone else to do it. CG knows the demand is there and hopes to
to have it available in the near future.

Both CG & Thumper Racing (903-938-3340) ship internationally. They sell the box
and pipe you are looking for.

Links? How about http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/dr350.html.

John



Please respond to "ThunderSUB" <[e-mail]>

Hi guys,

Just want to hear opinions of possible suspension set-ups for the
stock suspension of the '93 DR350S.

I only ride it off-road, mainly in sand and hard terrain.

The rear shock doesn't feel right. The rear is very unstable as It's
always jumping around. It hasn't bottomed yet (I have a lot of rear
preload, almost 3/4 to the harder setting).

I weight 180 lbs. / 82 Kgs fully geared.

I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.

I have a Twin Air Filter but haven't done any mod to the airbox. I
know a lot of DR owners cut the top of the standard airbox but as I
ride a lot in sand, won't that allow a lot of dirt/sand to get into
the engine ?

I also would like to know Links to companies that sell the Cycle Gear
Airbox and Supertrapp exhausts and that are willing to ship
internationally.

Also feel free to e-mail me links of off-road related sites.

Thanks in advance !

Best regards,

ThunderSUB   (Claudio)
Lisbon, Portugal
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html
http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub
http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789

[e-mail]
ICQ# [3072424]

* 1982 Honda Dax 70
* 1993 Suzuki DR350S
* 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR 350 tyres
Date: 21 Apr 1999 04:51:44 EDT

Hi guys

Have any of you had any luck using a 120 rear tyre and i now have a spare set
of wheels do you know any one who have used pirelli MT60s on a DR350 just for
road use. and are stainless steel brake lines worth it i have them on my car
and they have made a big difference.


Tony



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with
Date: 21 Apr 1999 08:56:00 -0400

Please don't take this the wrong way, but noise is a problem anywhere. I
ride with a guy who doesn't consider noise a problem either and you can here
him a couple miles away. All it takes is a few people to hear one loud bike
and it does damage to our reputation. Do all of us a favor and get a quiet
exhaust.

Thanks
Nick


I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) New Member from Portugal - Claudio
Date: 21 Apr 1999 08:56:11 EDT

 Welcome to the list.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with
Date: 21 Apr 1999 09:02:31 EDT

In a message dated 4/20/99 5:37:57 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
 so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.
  >>
 If noise is no problem Try Mike Young's Big Gun Exhaust. I have had very
good results with mine.  http://www.biggunexhaust.com/

 Good luck
 Mike A.
 Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with
Date: 21 Apr 1999 09:14:12 EDT

 By the way, After reading Nick's post (he makes a good point) I just wanted
to point out that the Big Gun falls below the db. Rating for all sanctioning
bodies. Its loud but legal (93 db I believe). I would also point out that
many of us ride in ORV areas of national and state parks whereas long as you
are below 98 db you are OK. In the ORV areas they understand there will be a
high noise level.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with homepages
Date: 21 Apr 1999 20:01:59 +0000



ThunderSUB wrote:

> I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
> so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.
>
> I have a Twin Air Filter but haven't done any mod to the airbox. I
> know a lot of DR owners cut the top of the standard airbox but as I
> ride a lot in sand, won't that allow a lot of dirt/sand to get into
> the engine ?
>

I just picked up my first ever bike! A '97 DR350SE. The last owner put
on an FMF Megamax II and it runs excellent, with plenty more power all
around than stock. He'd also done a nifty airbox mod, involving drilling
three holes in the side and plugging them with screened, vented ports
that he treated with oil just like the filter. With the rejetting for
the new pipe, plus no chance of sand getting in, this seems like the
perfect solution.

ps. anyone else in New Hampshire?

regards

Chris




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Kovacs <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with homepages
Date: 21 Apr 1999 20:18:55 -0700

Congratulation on your new bike !
But if it is your first bike ever how do you know, how did  it run stock,
you say it is much more powerfull than stock???

[e-mail] wrote:

> ThunderSUB wrote:
>
> > I need to replace the stock pipe, noise isn't a problem where I ride,
> > so what do you guys suggest ? I was thinking about FMF.
> >
> > I have a Twin Air Filter but haven't done any mod to the airbox. I
> > know a lot of DR owners cut the top of the standard airbox but as I
> > ride a lot in sand, won't that allow a lot of dirt/sand to get into
> > the engine ?
> >
>
> I just picked up my first ever bike! A '97 DR350SE. The last owner put
> on an FMF Megamax II and it runs excellent, with plenty more power all
> around than stock. He'd also done a nifty airbox mod, involving drilling
> three holes in the side and plugging them with screened, vented ports
> that he treated with oil just like the filter. With the rejetting for
> the new pipe, plus no chance of sand getting in, this seems like the
> perfect solution.
>
> ps. anyone else in New Hampshire?
>
> regards
>
> Chris




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) new member
Date: 21 Apr 1999 22:22:59 -0400 (EDT)

I dont know if my mail got out yesterday but hope it does now.I just
found this website and it looks great.I just bought a brand new 98
leftover DR350SE about a month ago.MY buddy has an identical bike and
another with a 96.The three of us ride alot.We live on LongIsland in NY
with plenty of miles of trials to ride.The suspension on my bike is more
tunable than my buddys 96.I can adjust comp and rebound rates in front
and rear.One problem we all have bogging after going over whoops.Whats
the story with these carbs?Any fixes this must be a problem most have.I
had a 94YAMAHA XT225 and sold it.Big rush first time I felt the power
difference.Tanks for any input guys this site is loaded with great
stuff!!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: DR 350 tyres
Date: 21 Apr 1999 21:32:37 -0700

Tony asks:
> Have any of you had any luck using a 120 rear tyre and i now have a spare
set
> of wheels do you know any one who have used pirelli MT60s on a DR350 just
for
> road use.

I bought my used DR with a 120/90 MT21 on the back.  It wasn't until Tom
Warr said 110's were stock that I had any idea the 120 was not stock.  It
works fine from single-track trails to 65mph highway cruising.

I have not heard anything about MT60's, though -- can't help there.


Then he also asks:
> and are stainless steel brake lines worth it i have them on my car
> and they have made a big difference.

I had to replace the front brake pads, so i bought a steel replacement brake
line at the same time.  The brakes are much stronger and do seem to have
better control, but I was replacing worn pads and, probably, the original
1992 fluid and line, so probably anything would seem better.
If nothing else, I found out that the Suzuki stock replacement brake line
part is about $80, while the stainless steel aftermarket one was only $40 --
another reason to switch :-)

Brian
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's
Date: 21 Apr 1999 21:45:00 -0700

This probably sounds like a dumb question to some of you, but I DID search
around on the web w/o finding an answer...  Maybe other inquiring minds
would also like to know.

I'm going to buy a new rear tire and some tire irons and replace it myself
-- I feel a lot more comfortable doing this with a tube tire than with the
tubeless tires on my street bike.  So, I know I want a 120/90 x 18 tire, but
many of the tubes seem to be sold not by 120/90 sizes, but by 3.0-3.5 sizes.

My questions are:
1 - I assume the "3.0" size means 3 inch diameter.  I know the 120/90 is
some kind of millimeter measurement, but what is it, exactly?

Leading to my second question...
2 - What size tube do you get for a 120/90? (Esp. if the tube is sold in
inches)  Also, since some of the tubes do say "100/110", do you buy a tube
with the same dimension as the tire, or slightly smaller?  Is there a web
page with a 'conversion table' or 'application chart'?

naturally progressing to the next issue, price:
3 - There's a wide price variance between different tubes.  Metzeler's "pure
rubber" ones are $15 for regular and $25 for 'heavy duty', while brand X is
only like $7.  Do you really get what you pay for?  Any specific
recommendations?

and finally,
4 - I've read a couple recommendations saying "Get tire irons at least 1
foot long".  So size DOES matter -- anything else to look for here?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Tires
Date: 22 Apr 1999 01:03:16 -0400 (EDT)

Brian,
You need a 4.50 x 18 tube. A 4.25 or 5.00 will also work. Smaller ones
will stretch too much. Motion Pro tire irons with a curve in them work
well, You will need at least one tire iron 12 inches long for good
leverage. Everyone has their own opinion about tube quality, just like
tires.
                            Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Survey says....(was: dr350 carb mod survey)
Date: 22 Apr 1999 05:07:08 PDT

Hey guys-  if 'yall remember my "carb mod survey" (quoted at end of
this msg), here are the results:

A whopping 7 people responded-
4 have done the spring/needle replacement and changed the jetting
2 have done nothing more than pull the plug from the top of the airbox
1 has done the spring/needle change only
1 has put on a whole new flat-side Mik carb
(for all you bean-counters, this adds up to 8 'cause I count myself
in the first category)

Everybody (except me!- but I know what I screwed up) seems to be
happy with the results of what they did to their carb.  The only
thing this goes to show is that there are alot of ways to run the
DR!  I think this speaks well of the bike; there are many bikes that
just plain SUCK unless the carb is spot-on...I've had a few!

In related news, speaking w/ Thumper Racing yesterday....no news on
when their version of a "majic airbox" will be in production, but
they said that real soon they will be offering a carb kit for the
DR350SE which will consist of the same Mikuni carb found on the later
dirt-only DRs, + the rubber manifolds on ea end of the carb to make
it fit to the stock airbox, + new throttle cable/assembly.  The guy
said their whole kit should be cheaper than the carb alone from a
Suzy dealer.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE
98 ZX-6R -sold last night :(  I'm in mourning----but plenty of $ for
DR mods now :?)


>I seem to recall seeing alot of folks on this list saying the JX
>needle/spring was the only thing they needed.  Can I get a little
head
>count here?  Please indicate, with or without comments, which of the
>following scenarios applies to you:>
>ABSN: I did airbox/filter mods with just the spring/needle fix>
>ABSNJ: I did airbox/filter mods, and went a step further & changed
>main and/or pilot jets in addition to the spring/needle fix>
>ABESN: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods with just the
>spring/needle fix>>ABESNJ: I did airbox/filter mods and exhaust mods
with the
>spring/needle fix and jetting changes>
>OTHER:  Any combination not mentioned above>
>I guess the above should only apply to SE owners, as the dirt-only
>carb is a whole different ballgame.>
>I will keep track of how many "votes" each of the above options
>receive and post the results after a few days.



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's
Date: 22 Apr 1999 08:28:00 -0400

I believe 120 is the millimeters of the width of the tire and the 90 is the
percent of the width that is the size of the side wall, so 90 percent of 120
is 108 millimeters.
Convert that to us and you have your answer

As far as changing the tire, it 90% technique and 10% tire iron size.  The
guy on my rny enduro club truck can change a tire in 7-8 minutes using 6
inch irons.

actaully do yourself a favor and buy 3 irons.
 ----------

This probably sounds like a dumb question to some of you, but I DID search
around on the web w/o finding an answer...  Maybe other inquiring minds
would also like to know.

I'm going to buy a new rear tire and some tire irons and replace it myself
 -- I feel a lot more comfortable doing this with a tube tire than with the
tubeless tires on my street bike.  So, I know I want a 120/90 x 18 tire, but
many of the tubes seem to be sold not by 120/90 sizes, but by 3.0-3.5 sizes.

My questions are:
1 - I assume the "3.0" size means 3 inch diameter.  I know the 120/90 is
some kind of millimeter measurement, but what is it, exactly?

Leading to my second question...
2 - What size tube do you get for a 120/90? (Esp. if the tube is sold in
inches)  Also, since some of the tubes do say "100/110", do you buy a tube
with the same dimension as the tire, or slightly smaller?  Is there a web
page with a 'conversion table' or 'application chart'?

naturally progressing to the next issue, price:
3 - There's a wide price variance between different tubes.  Metzeler's "pure
rubber" ones are $15 for regular and $25 for 'heavy duty', while brand X is
only like $7.  Do you really get what you pay for?  Any specific
recommendations?

and finally,
4 - I've read a couple recommendations saying "Get tire irons at least 1
foot long".  So size DOES matter -- anything else to look for here?

Thanks in advance,
Brian

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Brian Bucknam         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Tube Q's
Date: 22 Apr 1999 08:38:42 -0700



"Sperduto, Nick" wrote:
.
>
> actaully do yourself a favor and buy 3 irons.

And a couple $3 snap-on plastic rim protectors.  They work wonders (for me,
anyway.)

I've also found a spoon-like device (flat, wide, but thin) that helps out.

Bryan
'96 DR441



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: dr350 carb mod survey
Date: 22 Apr 1999 10:45:53 -0700

James,

Give Rob Barnum a call @ [phone]. He has a well-used 385 the's been
racing since '83 and has extensive experience with carbs, even working for
Edelbrock (Quicksilver). He has since left them and has his own repair/mod
business. He may say the Mikuni is junk, but don't let that stop you from
pressing for further help.

John




[e-mail] (James Adler) on 04/17/99 07:56:24 PM

Please respond to [e-mail] (James Adler)

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




I use a 34 mm flatslide Mikuni (White Bros) with their 385 kit. If
anyone else uses this carb I would be interested in your jetting specs.
I find this carb picky about the jetting, very temp dependent.
                           Jim A.












-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:49:31 -0500
Date: 22 Apr 1999 11:49:14 -0600

Awesome list!
I have a '92 DR350S and just cut holes in the top of the airbox.  It runs
lean so I am planning a rejet job.  I've been gathering info so I'll give
what I learned.  K&N's stage I&II rejet kit #81-9194 ($57) is recommended if
you remove the door from the airbox but not if you cut holes in the top.
This particular kit doesn't have larger jets.  I was told to get a larger
main and pilot jet from the Suzuki dealer if I cut holes in the top of the
airbox.
I am interested in this JXneedle mentioned in the list.  Who carries it?
This sounds like the simplest solution.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:21:32 -0500
Date: 22 Apr 1999 13:20:57 -0600

This is outrageously awesome!
I just asked a question and within 40min I have an answer.  I just ordered
the JX needle and spring from thumper racing.  Thanks Mike and Kurt.  Before
getting this info, I was floundering around asking my friends how to correct
the carb problem.  One said I needed a richer main jet.  Another said I
needed a richer main and pilot jet.  A "mechanic" on AOL said I needed to
change the air jet and use racing gas.  One bike shop said "there's nothing
aftermarket out there for dr350's - whoops - here's something from Cobra for
$60."  The guy at Cycle Gear said "my mechanic will call you and give you
specs on the new main jet to get."  The Suzuki dealer in town (who by the
way sucks) let me talk to the mechanic (who sucks too) who told me not to
modify the airbox but since I did it I might be able to correct the damage
with a richer main jet and pilot jet.  He also said to pull the factory plug
off the pilot screw and "play around" with it and that I should bring the
bike in to be fixed after I've done all the damage I can.  All I can say is
thank you for this bike saving site!!!!!!!!!!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) starter button on DR-se models
Date: 22 Apr 1999 16:17:55 EDT

Has anyone relocated the starter button on their DRse models? Mine is a '97
with that crappy molded housing that contains the starter button (the plate
inside that contains the switch has broken, and I temp. fixed it with some
play-doh for support!) and the kill switch. I am going to relocate these
switches and get rid of the housing so I can cut the bars down and still run
my bark busters. Does anyone know of a good source for reliable switches??
Also, I need a good tire that will hold up for longer than 200 miles of
street riding, that is all I can get out of knobs. I ride about 85% dirt,
ride street only to link trails together, and occasionally just to terrorize
my town! Waiting for replies!
                                       Scott



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 22 Apr 1999 15:16:48 -0600



+AD4-This is outrageously awesome+ACE-


Just the beginning...just the beginning...wait a year or two until we get some gray hairs (I
already have some to share) and we aren't strangers to one another...on the KLR list we walk
people through one problem after another...it just takes time to incorporate the beginning
knowledge of some and the great knowledge of others. Eventually we'll have 2 or 3 upgrade paths
for different kinds of riders....it is going to be a little tricky on the DR because of the
dirt version and the street version, the bike is very versatile...

Kurt (113 listers and growing each day...keep spreading the word you are doing great)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 22 Apr 1999 15:23:51 -0600

>>it is going to be a little tricky on the DR because of the
dirt version and the street version, the bike is very versatile...<<

Excuse me.  There are only two versions of the DR350.  The ones that start
easy (electric) and the ones that don't.  JUST KIDDING.  Hey let's start a
webring!

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 22 Apr 1999 15:54:23 -0600

>Excuse me.  There are only two versions of the DR350.  The ones that start
>easy (electric) and the ones that don't.  JUST KIDDING.  Hey let's start a
>webring!
>
>Gino


I know just the man for the job!

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:21:32 -0500
Date: 22 Apr 1999 19:10:05 EDT

 My local Suzuki dealer sucks as well. I remember when I was a kid my father
and I spent many hours at the cycle shop just shooting the bull with the
owner. In those days your dealer was your best source of info on how to
improve your bike. Now they just want you to come in (preferably with a part
number) order your parts and not come back until your parts come in (two or
three weeks later).

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 22 Apr 1999 19:15:24 EDT

 Gino,
 My DR is kick start only but I have found I can just have a midget ride on
back to kick it over for me and still be lighter than your SE.  :)


Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 22 Apr 1999 21:21:59 -0500

I just noticed from the post about the carb mods survey that 4 people
used the JX spring/needle from Thumper Racing as well as replaced the
main jet with a richer one.  As you know, the stock main jet for the
92DR350S is a 135.  Are those of  you who increase jet size increasing to
a 137 or 139 or which size?  Also, where do you order the new jet?  My
(worthless) Suzuki dealer says he can't get a jet for a BST33SS series
Mikuni.  Also, are you making adjustments to the pilot air screw by
popping out the factory plug?  And finally, are those of you switching to
a richer main jet at a different altitude.  I am at sealevel.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City Beach, Florida
p.s.  This mailing list is COOL

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) airbox
Date: 22 Apr 1999 21:44:28 -0400 (EDT)

My bike has nothing done to it at all will I notice any power increase
from drilling the airbox?Am I better off drilling holes in it or cutting
off the top?will I need to do anything after I do this?Is this more
trouble than its worth doing this to a stock bike?Thanks




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) starter button on DR-se models
Date: 22 Apr 1999 19:52:22 PDT


Reply-To: [e-mail]
Has anyone relocated the starter button on their DRse models? Mine is a '97
with that crappy molded housing that contains the starter button (the plate
inside that contains the switch has broken, and I temp. fixed it with some
play-doh for support!) and the kill switch.

My button broke too...the little circuit board is what broke after about 9500 miles on my '94 DR.
I cut my bars a 1/2 inch on each end, this wasn't enough to require locating the button housing though.
For all SE owners (E=electric start) use a gentle press on the button, otherwise your's will break like our's did.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vik Banerjee" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Adventure Touring Mailing List
Date: 22 Apr 1999 21:50:08 -0600

Hi all,

I have setup a mailing list for motorcycle adventure touring.  You can
subscribe at:

http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/cmbt_touring

The list is for all brands of bikes and riders from any part of the world.

The list language is English and it is not moderated so content may not be
suitable for minors.

The purpose of the list is to provide a focused discussion for riders of
dual purpose bikes regarding issues such as:

- suitable bikes for dual purpose touring
- equipment
- luggage
- navigation
- first aid
- organizing and meeting riders for your own trips
- trip stories
- administrative issues for foreign travel

The hope is that this may provide more focus and information on these common
aspects of dual purpose motorcycle touring than currently exists on brand
focussed lists.

There will be a searchable list archive and I'll publish more details to the
list.

Any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

Vik Banerjee
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
KLR650
GS500





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) DR carbs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 00:48:25 -0400 (EDT)

Chuck,
You have probably already figured it out but Thumper Racing has any carb
parts you will need. When I used the stock carb the 135 main jet stayed
even with an opened up airbx and pipe. The pilot, needle and possibly a
new spring are the way to go. The DynoJet kit is pretty much the same
thing but kind of expensive. Get the Thumper catalog, it will help you a
lot.
                        JA
You electric start guys eat my dust when your switches and battery go
dead.  Priced a cam lately?       (just kidding)




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 23 Apr 1999 02:40:47 -0500


.  JUST KIDDING.  Hey let's start a
>>webring!
>>
>>Gino
>
>
>I know just the man for the job!
>
>Kurt

Word has it that he's unemployed and looking for a job.  Can you believe
such luck?

Harral
>
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 23 Apr 1999 02:46:43 -0500




> Gino,
> My DR is kick start only but I have found I can just have a midget ride on
>back to kick it over for me and still be lighter than your SE.  :)
>
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville

Mike,  how many rings did you remove from your DR's piston so that a 25 lb
midget could kick it over?  And how does that big boy get up to your
kickstart lever?

Harral
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) DR carbs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 03:04:24 -0500


JA
You electric start guys eat my dust when your switches and battery go
dead.  Priced a cam lately?       (just kidding)

However, Jim, you will have to eat our dust every other time (my ES has
never failed to start), since we would have about a 1/4 mile headstart
whilst you are busy repeating steps 11 thru 14 of someones's starting
procedure.  Adios amigo. :-)

Harral










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) starter button on DR-se models
Date: 23 Apr 1999 05:06:15 PDT

Hey Scott-  I tried IRC GP110 tires on my XR650L, and after 1500
miles of street/hiway (HARD miles...always heavy acceleration in the
lower gears), there was still a little knob left in the center of the
rear tire.  These tires have good-sized knobs for something marketed
as a dual-sport tire, but they work really well on the street cause
the two rows of tall knobs on the rear are slightly offset from
center so it gives you an almost continuous flat contact patch on the
street.  They are knobier than any other tire I've seen marketed as
"dual-sport".  Best of all, you can get front AND rear for about $100
from the mail order catalogs!!  I just ordered some for my DR350, and
I think w/ the lower HP/torque of this bike, these tires ought to go
3000+ miles.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>Also, I need a good tire that will hold up for longer than 200 miles
of
>street riding, that is all I can get out of knobs. I ride about 85%
dirt,
>ride street only to link trails together, and occasionally just to
terrorize
>my town! Waiting for replies!
>                                       Scott
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re-post
Date: 23 Apr 1999 08:07:11 EDT

In a message dated 4/22/99 11:34:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Hey whats the problem with SE's bud?It's  surely heavier than a dirt
 model but try and go more than a half mile down the street without the
 law on your back.No reason for me to run licensed registerd and insured
 and still go where I want in the woods.Different strokes for different
 folks as  long as its a DR!!!Just jioned this website on tuesday its
 awsome loaded with good info.Later on >>


 Welcome John, I reposted your message because you sent it to me privately.
If you want to post to the list you have to include this address
[e-mail]
If you just hit reply your message will only be sent to the one person who
posted the original message.

Good Luck
Mike A
Nashville













-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) list growth...
Date: 23 Apr 1999 08:10:40 EDT

In a message dated 4/23/99 2:47:11 AM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< Mike,  how many rings did you remove from your DR's piston so that a 25 lb
 midget could kick it over?  And how does that big boy get up to your
 kickstart lever?

 Harral >>

LoL :)
Mike A
Nashville




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re:  Chucks jet question
Date: 23 Apr 1999 05:25:54 PDT

This is wierd that theres such a diff in main jet sizes between the
earlier bikes and the more recent ones.  Stock main on my 95 SE is
127.5, which I increased one size to a 130; pilot was 30, which I
upped to a 40.  I wonder if I should've gone higher on the main?  As
for where to buy the jets....if you're in a decent sized city try to
find some discount dirtbike place.  In Dallas, Bates Discount Cycles
is the place.  They have a big cabinet of every conceivable jet made
@ <$4 ea.  Thumper Racing was going to charge me $6/ea for jets + $7
shipping!  Be advised that there are "hex" and "round" Mikuni jets;
in my 95 I needed the round one, but had bought the hex.  Thats par
though, as I cant do anything to my bike w/o making at least 2 trips
to the store!

I could tell a big difference after changing my jets: bike ran
stronger everywhere, but idled rougher & I could smell gas coming out
exhaust.  I've been advised to adj the pilot air mix screw, which
I'll be  doing soon.  Thumper later told me that I probably could've
avoided the pilot jet switch if I'd adjusted  the air mix screw in
first place.....WTF they didn't say that the first time I called
em!!  Seem to be a good buch of guys anyway.  I guess when you call
for free info, you get no refunds!  I will be throwing some $$ at
them for their 435 kit eventually, so I dont feel so bad.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE



>I just noticed from the post about the carb mods survey that 4 people
>used the JX spring/needle from Thumper Racing as well as replaced the
>main jet with a richer one.  As you know, the stock main jet for the
>92DR350S is a 135.  Are those of  you who increase jet size
increasing to
>a 137 or 139 or which size?  Also, where do you order the new jet?
My
>(worthless) Suzuki dealer says he can't get a jet for a BST33SS
series
>Mikuni.  Also, are you making adjustments to the pilot air screw by
>popping out the factory plug?  And finally, are those of you
switching to
>a richer main jet at a different altitude.  I am at sealevel.
>
>Chuck Vokac
>Panama City Beach, Florida
>p.s.  This mailing list is COOL
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n
Date: 23 Apr 1999 08:28:38 EDT

  OK, for all you guy out there with impaired right leg muscles I am gonna
set the record straight. I have a 95 DR. I have cut out the top of the air
box and had the carb re-jetted. My bike never takes more than three kicks to
start unless I have let it sit for a couple months or it somehow ends up on
top of me (this seems to happen sometimes). So take heart, with a little
practice (start out kick'n a DR100) you will soon be able to wean yourself of
the electric Starter.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:47:20 EDT

In a message dated 4/23/99 7:44:58 AM Mountain Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<< So take heart, with a little
 practice (start out kick'n a DR100) you will soon be able to wean yourself
of
 the electric Starter. >>

Hmmmm.  If kick starters are so good, why is everyone putting electric starts
on their dirt bikes?  Yamaha, Cannondale to name a few.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:04:01 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 08:03:28 -0600

Thanks Brian

I just called my (worthless) Suzuki dealer again.  I asked about
availability of main jets for my 92DR350S.  He says there are 4 different
types of jets for the Mikuni BST33SS (i.e. hex and round, etc. types) and I
should bring the old jet in so they know what to order (Panama City is a
small town and the dealer here has nothing in stock).  He also says the jets
are available only in increments of 5 so I would have to go from 135 to a
140 or 145 main jet.  I haven't called Thumper Racing yet - they seem to
know their stuff.  It sounds like changing the pilot jet was a mistake for
you Brian.  My stock pilot is 37.5 and interestingly, the 92 DR350S uses a
larger pilot which is 40.  The dirt version 92DR350S stock uses a 37.5
pilot.  I am thinking not to change pilot jet sizes but I leave that to the
group's discussion.  Also, should I go to a 140 or 145 (or other size) main
jet for sealevel riding.  Again, my airbox top has holes in it and I have a
UNI airfilter (not K&N) and I have the stock airbox - not the Magic airbox
from Cycle Gear.
thanks again
Chuck Vokac - Panama City



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce P. Clapp" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) airbox
Date: 23 Apr 1999 07:25:38 -0700

I did this to my DR350 with great results. It definitely gives the bike
a happy wakeup. I'm guessing  an addition 15% horsepower. Keep an eye on
the jetting, as you may need to change this.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:    [e-mail] [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent:    Thursday, April 22, 1999 6:44 PM
>To:    [e-mail]
>Subject:    (dr350) airbox
>
>My bike has nothing done to it at all will I notice any power increase
>from drilling the airbox?Am I better off drilling holes in it or cutting
>off the top?will I need to do anything after I do this?Is this more
>trouble than its worth doing this to a stock bike?Thanks
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re-post
Date: 23 Apr 1999 08:40:05 -0600


> Welcome John, I reposted your message because you sent it to me privately.
>If you want to post to the list you have to include this address
>[e-mail]
>If you just hit reply your message will only be sent to the one person who
>posted the original message.
>
>Good Luck
>Mike A
>Nashville


thanks Mike...actually I have the list setup so that a person can hit reply to author or reply
to all...so they should have the choice you are talking about...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 07:50:28 PDT

messing around w/ bike yesterday, I took the spark plug out.  It was
pretty black & sooty...confirming that I'm running rich.  I will
screw w/ jetting again today.  Anyone know if there is any benefit to
be had from going to a hotter plug on a DR-SE w/ filter, carb, &
exhaust mods?

Anybody got a service manual they want to sell that would cover my 95
SE?  Local shop has a Clymer ($26) that covers 1990-94 SE's....but
they dont make em for 95 models.  I dont really want to blow $75 on a
Suzi manual.  Maybe I should just buy the Clymer my local guy
has...probably not much diff between 94-95; comments?

And if I had the manual, I wouldnt have to ask this:  What is the
torque on the handlebar mounting clamps?

I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.
Also, be prepared for a hassel if you ever try to change the
handgrips: the throttle tube and grip are one piece, and you have to
scrape/grind/whittle quite a bit to get the lousy stock grip crap off
the throttle tube.  And local dirtbike guy says nobody makes an
aftermarket throttle tube for the DRs.  I put a pair of Pro Grip Gel
grips on and they feel great!  great $8 investment for comfort, but
be warned about the battle w/ the factory grip!

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:22:30 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:22:39 -0600

Bryan, I got a Suzuki repair manual off the internet for about $20.  It
covers DR250-350 90-94.  If Clymer makes the manual you want, the internet
will have it.  The site is called motobooks.com or motorcyclebooks.com or
something.  If you can't find it, I'll do a search for you.

Also, I called Thumper about the jetting question.  They tell me not to
change the size of the main or pilot jet if I have a stock exhaust.  They
say I might have to adjust the pilot airscrew to 2 1/2 turns.

And thanks for the dual sport riders website... I'm checking it out.

Chuck in Panama City, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:41:07 -0600

Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.  Sorry!

Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n
Date: 23 Apr 1999 11:17:36 -0500

Mike, Mike, Mike,

No need for you to feel the need to defend your choice of starting methods
(kick vs pushbutton) by implying that those of us with pushbuttons are
somehow physically impaired.  :-)  At well over 200 lbs, I can start even a
Harley with either leg.  A DR would simply be no problem.  Did you know that
with a pushbutton, I can even let it sit for months at a time (we have to do
that here in Minneapolis) and it will start with the first push of the
button.  But even better, you know those times when the bike does end up on
top of you, upside down, and the carb loads up and you have to kick the crap
out of it or pull the plug and kick the crap out of it, I just hold the
throttle wide open and push the button.  It starts right up.  No muss, no
fuss.  Give it a couple of revs and I'm on my way.  Just a word of warning
though.  I think you should alternate legs so you don't end up looking like
a man with one good leg dragging around an emaciated stump.  LOL

Good ridin
Harral
-----Original Message-----


>  OK, for all you guy out there with impaired right leg muscles I am gonna
>set the record straight. I have a 95 DR. I have cut out the top of the air
>box and had the carb re-jetted. My bike never takes more than three kicks
to
>start unless I have let it sit for a couple months or it somehow ends up on
>top of me (this seems to happen sometimes). So take heart, with a little
>practice (start out kick'n a DR100) you will soon be able to wean yourself
of
>the electric Starter.
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Karl Stingl" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:54:36 -0600


Call me macho or a romantic, but there is something satisfying about kicking
a dirtbike to life.

Karl

PS I must be lucky that my bike starts so easy.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:34:30 -0700

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
> Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
> factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.

  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and I
had a close encounter and I came out the victor.

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 12:39:00 -0400

I don't know about anyone else, but on my dr, the biggest complaint I had
about the bars were, they were bent to far in to get a comfortable riding
position and when you turn the bars full to one side, the bars would smash
my leg before to triple clamp hit it's stop. After riding an enduro and
almost crying from the pain, I tossed the stock bars right into the garbage
can
 ----------

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
> Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
> factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.

  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and I
had a close encounter and I came out the victor.

 --
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 09:43:25 -0700




> > factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
> > welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.
>
>   Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
> (not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the

This is a good approach.

OTOH, if you want those slugs out completely (I did this on my old '97 SE):

1) Drill into the center of the slug and tap it for a long (~3") screw that
you hopefully have in your miscellaneous screw bin.
2) Remove most of the weld holding the slug in.  I found the best way to do
this was to drill a series of holes through the weld itself, as
closely-spaced as you can.  The only trick here is to avoid removing any of
the actual bar material (not difficult).
3) Use an appropriately-sized socket to bang the slug _into_ the bar, in
order to break what's left of the weld.
4) Use a Dremel-type tool to grind out the remainder of the weld on the
inside of the bar.
5) Insert your ~3" screw to the slug, and "slide hammer" it out with the
claws of a hammer.

FWIW,
Bryan
'96 DR441



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Michael Terrian <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 10:52:56 -0600

Brian:

Don't bother calling Clymer or Haynes. Neither makes a catalog any later than about '94. Don't know why!!

I bought the Suzuki manual along with my '96.

Mike Terrian

On Friday, April 23, 1999 9:41 AM, Vokac, Chuck [SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
> Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
> see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.  Sorry!
>
> Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 23 Apr 1999 11:06:28 -0600



+AD4-I don't know about anyone else, but on my dr, the biggest complaint I had
+AD4-about the bars were, they were bent to far in to get a comfortable riding
+AD4-position and when you turn the bars full to one side, the bars would smash
+AD4-my leg before to triple clamp hit it's stop.

yeah, I'm not liking them either, too low also...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:41:20 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 13:02:00 -0400

They probably don't make the bike because with the addition of electric
start, the bikes became maintenance free, so no need for a manual  <grin>
 ----------

Brian:

Don't bother calling Clymer or Haynes. Neither makes a catalog any later
than about '94. Don't know why!!

I bought the Suzuki manual along with my '96.

Mike Terrian

On Friday, April 23, 1999 9:41 AM, Vokac, Chuck
[SMTP:[e-mail]] wrote:
> Brian, I searched around a bit and couldn't find the manual you need.
> Strange - Clymer only makes a manual for 90-94DR?  Unfortunately I didn't
> see a phone number for Clymer or Intertec (publisher) in my manual.
Sorry!
>
> Chuck Vokac, Panama City, FL
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C. Coons" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) (DR350) Kick'n
Date: 23 Apr 1999 11:42:43 -0500

These are the times when all the trade-offs seem justified.


>or it somehow ends up on
>top of me (this seems to happen sometimes).





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) dr350 throttle tube
Date: 23 Apr 1999 14:08:08 EDT

The aftermarket has throttle tubes for the RM Mxer that also fit the DR...
just the tube not the dual cable pulley that connects to the tube... thus you
can put any grip on you like!

Random question.. How can i find/get on a list about Ford trucks/motors??

Thanks...

Guy @[e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce P. Clapp" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) airbox
Date: 23 Apr 1999 12:36:18 -0700

Here's what I did. Take your air box out from the bike, and give it a
good scrub job to clean it out. Using the tool of your choice (I used a
jig saw) cut a 4" hole from the top. Make sure that you don't cut any of
the mounting portions that help the airbox to fit to the frame.

When I took out the snorkel, I really didn't see any difference.

If you do this, make sure that you are religious about  cleaning your
air filter if you ride in dusty conditions.

>-----Original Message-----
>From:    chasmatic [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>Sent:    Friday, April 23, 1999 9:22 AM
>To:    Bruce P. Clapp
>Subject:    Re: (dr350) airbox
>
>Exactly what did you do to your airbox and carburation, Bruce?  Most of my
>riding is done between sea level and 7000 ft.  Really the majority is done
>under 2500 ft.  I am curious if there is something to be gained by just
>pulling the snorkel on top of the airbox?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce P. Clapp <[e-mail]>
>To: '[e-mail]' <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 9:22 AM
>Subject: RE: (dr350) airbox
>
>
>>I did this to my DR350 with great results. It definitely gives the bike
>>a happy wakeup. I'm guessing  an addition 15% horsepower. Keep an eye on
>>the jetting, as you may need to change this.
>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: [e-mail] [SMTP:[e-mail]]
>>>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 6:44 PM
>>>To: [e-mail]
>>>Subject: (dr350) airbox
>>>
>>>My bike has nothing done to it at all will I notice any power increase
>>>from drilling the airbox?Am I better off drilling holes in it or cutting
>>>off the top?will I need to do anything after I do this?Is this more
>>>trouble than its worth doing this to a stock bike?Thanks
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 13:38:49 -0600

OK, check me if I've got this straight:
The PILOT JET only affects fuel flow in idle and up to 1/8th throttle.  The
MAIN JET only affects fuel flow beyond 3/4ths throttle.  The PILOT SCREW,
NEEDLE DIAMETER, AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION affects fuel flow all the way from
idle through 3/4th throttle.  Since I will be using a JX needle and spring
from Thumper Racing, I will be altering the PILOT SCREW (I'll adjust that
myself), NEEDLE DIAMETER (skinnier or richer needle with more optimal taper
will be provided by Thumper), AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION (also set by
Thumper).  Also, I will be installing a weaker spring (Thumper's) so the
venturi will open quicker and throttle response will be faster.  Therefore,
the only thing I won't be altering is the range from 3/4th to full throttle.
If I have poor response or the bike runs lean in this range, I need a bigger
MAIN JET (maybe a 140).  Does this sound right?

Chuck Vokac - Panama City FL.
p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem to be
getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep this
list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Anybody got a 435 kit from thumper
Date: 23 Apr 1999 15:55:13 -0400

I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.

Bret Gergely





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 13:52:03 -0700

"Vokac, Chuck" wrote:
>
> OK, check me if I've got this straight:
> The PILOT JET only affects fuel flow in idle and up to 1/8th throttle.  The
> MAIN JET only affects fuel flow beyond 3/4ths throttle.  The PILOT SCREW,
> NEEDLE DIAMETER, AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION affects fuel flow all the way from
> idle through 3/4th throttle.  Since I will be using a JX needle and spring
> from Thumper Racing, I will be altering the PILOT SCREW (I'll adjust that
> myself), NEEDLE DIAMETER (skinnier or richer needle with more optimal taper
> will be provided by Thumper), AND NEEDLE CLIP POSITION (also set by
> Thumper).  Also, I will be installing a weaker spring (Thumper's) so the
> venturi will open quicker and throttle response will be faster.  Therefore,
> the only thing I won't be altering is the range from 3/4th to full throttle.
> If I have poor response or the bike runs lean in this range, I need a bigger
> MAIN JET (maybe a 140).  Does this sound right?

AFAIK, this is all accurate (with the possible correction that the NEEDLE
CLIP POSITION is easily set by you, the installer -- there are typically 5
positions for the clip).

I'll just add that to test these differing settings, you should:

1) Use an older plug (with "stuff" on the electrode that you can "read".)
2) Use a clean, oiled air filter
3) Mark your throttle so you can ride your bike for a few seconds at a
certain throttle position, e.g. half open.
4) The main jet should be set first, then the needle/position, etc.
5) Warm up the bike.  In 5th or 6th gear, run the engine WFO for a few
seconds, perhaps up a slight incline.
6) Simultaneously pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch.
7) Pull the plug
8) Burn your hands
9) "Read" the plug by examining the deposits on the ceramic insulator next
to the tip.  Desired color is "light brown".  "White" = lean; "Black" = rich
11) Dial in your main and then move on to 3/4 throttle position, etc.

I'm sending this to the list half in an effort to help out, and half to
validate my own understanding of jetting a bike.  I certainly welcome any
corrections to this procedure.

Thanks,
Bryan
'96 DR441
Roseville, CA



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Anybody got a 435 kit from thumper
Date: 23 Apr 1999 14:03:33 -0700

Bret,

I bought a bike with a White Bros 441 kit on it.  (I was planning on getting
a 350 and adding this kit, but then found this bike.)

This bike also has the Suzuki "Hi-Po" cam.

I can't really comment yet on reliability.  The previous owner only had it
done last July.  No problems so far, however.

The bike did run hot when I got it -- it was jetted way too lean.  I've
richened it out and am also running 50% race gas in an effort to keep it
running cool.

With all that, it's now running about as warm as I remember my stock '97
DR350SE running.

The bike starts and idles as well as I would expect any DR350 to (1st or 2nd
kick, hot or cold).

The power increase is substantial, across the entire rev range.  The
previous owner also installed an FMF Megamax exhaust, which, combined with
the cam, really helps the high-end.

I can't comment on the effectiveness of simply getting a hotter cam.

Summary:  If I had to do it all over again (even though I never did it the
first time :), I would.

Bryan
'96 DR441


Bret Gergely wrote:
>
> I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
> holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
> all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
> thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
> it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
> beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
> any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.
>
> Bret Gergely



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Vokac, Chuck" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 16:06:19 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 15:06:24 -0600

Are the messages in this list archived?  I'd love to see past posts and
catch up on what I've missed.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Andrus Chesley)
Subject: (dr350) Re. Carb mods
Date: 23 Apr 1999 16:58:57 -0500

Hi all,
Just getting caught up on back mail and saw a lot of information on carb
rejetting. But I never seen anyone mention that we have Carb bleed on
the upward go at rejetting. As in; all bottom end stuff effects the next
range and/or ranges on up. But, it doesn't work back down to much as in
main jet changes effecting idle circuits. So in changing the needle
posistion, size, needle jet, pilotjet, etc., you are adding to your
overall to an extent and may not have to change out the main jet...
Just a thingy from my old days of "Wanta be roadracers days of the 70's"
and playing with carbs a bunch on 500 singles from BSA's to Yamahas. Ha
, we'd go thru all this jetting and dyno the results and make an
ignition change and have to start over on jetting. Oh well. The fun of
it.

An added info on my '97 DR350se.... I went to Radio Shack and bought a
pack of really small washers. (.020") maybe, didn't measure but will
next time in shop. Shimmed up the needle with this and it really helped
out on the bottom and starting as in getting off the choke right away
after starting. I'm with a lot of others in you're needing to go to a
pumper or straight slide type carb rather than vacuum dudes for good
response.


--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 23 Apr 1999 19:43:55 -0500

Andy, Your post was at the fringe of my understanding of my bike's carb
but I think I got most of it.  Everything useful I have learned about my
bike has been from this discussion list.  Thanks to all for this info!  I
have another question.  Adjusting the pilot air screw at the bottom of
the carbuerator changes the air-fuel mixture to a degree, right?  So when
you cut the top of the airbox off and the engine runs lean, can't you
adjust the pilot air screw and richen the mixture?  Does changing to the
narrower, more tapered needle (Thumper racing's JX needle) do that much?


___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Re: Anybody got a Big Bore Kit
Date: 23 Apr 1999 16:27:14 -0700

Bret,

What's out there. I have a 441 kit in mine, developed & marketed by White
Brothers. I chose this kit only because I got a one-time special deal from a
local shop, otherwise they all seem to be geared toward the same goal, allegedly
produce similar results, and require the same amount of work, be it 400 (Cycle
Gear), 435 (Thumper, Scott's or Norm Kouba's DR Suspensions), or 441 (White
Bros.) They all have a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio except the 435 which is 10 to
1. And then there's the 385 kit which has a 10.5 to 1 compression ratio, but
I'll cover that later. Mail me back if interested in my personal write-up and
experience in more detail. I will summarize with some major points hereafter.

What happened. Following the beastly power increase, the sock suspension became
an immediate weak link in an otherwise fine ending package, even though the
stock cartridge forks and shock were previously revalved and resprung. Now
before the big bore job, the DR would leap well (imagine that!) and predictably;
afterwards no amount of adjustment and method of throttle or body positioning or
approach produced stable, steady flight; no clue the extra power would have such
dramatic affects upon handling. I'm of the thought the extra boost overwhelmed
the factory design scope. Now that I have RMX suspension front and back, it all
works together quite well, balanced as before without the extra cc's.

Balance. If you stay with your stock suspension, then do a moderate boost only
with the 385 kit (costs less); but if you want to go all out with the engine,
then you ought to be willing to do an equal amount or more to the suspension,
otherwise you may exacerbate an odd handling quirk or find a new one. And if you
do tight woods or mud riding, the larger kits could be considered an overkill.

Cam. A cam is not recommended as some of the aftermarket hardening process are
no where near as good as OEM, and you will need new springs, and/or guides &
valves. And most of what you will hear out there (Drew Smith, and I cannot
remember who else I talked to) is the stock cam does a fairly good job. Most
thing if you want to end up with a race bike and have $ then buy one; the DR is
a good, comfortable trail bike that can be raced but only so far.

If I were to do it again, I'd give my business to Norm; just like to help one of
our own when I can, as opposed to some larger corporation that may not have a
clue nor experience with you as to your own  situation.

Others may have had different experiences; these points sum up mine. Let's hear
it, guys.

John




Bret Gergely <[e-mail]> on 04/23/99 12:55:13 PM

Please respond to Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.

Bret Gergely












-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: Anybody got a Big Bore Kit
Date: 23 Apr 1999 16:41:52 -0700

Sorry Bret; got to ramblin' and remembered you wanted reliability opinions. You
can call Mark @ Southland (714-893-5091) as he used to do several DRs (385/441s)
a month.

I have 1800 dirt mi. on my 441, and everything seems fine so far.

Having a fast friend with a YZ400, I try to keep him in the tighter stuff where
the abrupt power & longness of his YZ is a liability, and the short wheelbase &
grunt of the DR is advantageous. When the trails open up, he's gone but I can
hang in with him until we hit 60-70 (dirt) mph, then the stability of his longer
bike kicks in and he gains on me.

John





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:28:26 -0400

I just installed Thumpers JX needle and spring and went back to the 135
main. I also took your advice and installed the Scotts "T" handle air screw.
I have a question about the vacuum/vent line routings on this 90 DRS.
There are two rubber hoses attached to this carb (MIKUNI BST 33SS). One is
manifold vacuum routed to the fuel petcock. The other appears to be a vent
hose. It was routed up from the carb into an opening in the chassis under
the fuel tank. I assume this is a vent line and is not connected to
anything. Is this correct?? Should there be some kind of filter on the end?
I have the Suzuki shop manual and it shows this line pointed down but I
can't tell if it is connected to something??
Does anyone have any experience with a Cobra Spark Arrester for the DR? I
got one with the bike but was told by the former owner that he could not get
the jetting correct with this spark arrester installed. It will be
interesting to see how it performs with the JX needle as the taper and
length of the needle are quite different than stock.
I'm amazed at how fast this list is growing!!!!!! Thanks for all the info
folks!!!!!
-----Original Message-----


>
>I have a 91 DR350S... top cut out of the airbox... FMF Performax muffler
(w/
>quiet core and 6 discs)... I run a 137.5 main (1 size above stock) a JX
>needle and spring... all my riding is done at 5,000 feet and above... Am
>very happy with all the changes I have made.
>
>The larger jet has made the bike run quite a bit cooler and easier to start
>when it is hot... I also removed the cap covering the fuel adjust screw
>(drilled a hole in it and used a screw to pull it out) and then installed a
>Scotts T-handle adjustment screw to make adjustments easier while riding (a
>good purchase)... I have found that by keeping the carb adjusted to the
>conditions (altitude, temperature, etc...) the slow speed handling is much
>more steady and predictable... Scotts also sells a tool to make valve
>adjustments easier.
>
>Has anybody changed to a dirt only carburetor, and Edelbrock, or any other
>carb? I am just wondering what performance gain can be realized my making
>the switch.
>
>Karl
>
>Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain, and most fools do.
>-Ben Franklin
>
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Suspension setting / Airbox / Pipes / Companies with homepages
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:03:20 +0000



George Kovacs wrote:

> Congratulation on your new bike !
> But if it is your first bike ever how do you know, how did  it run stock,
> you say it is much more powerfull than stock???

Oops! Actually, I had a quick go on a stock dealer bike a while ago, and my
memory of that, plus the confirmation of my bike's previous owner... I filled
in the blanks a bit. "Much more powerful" may have been a bit effusive, but
for the $$, it seems like the return is worth it.

Also, since I last posted, I cranked the bike a little more and the FMF
became a bit louder - not bad by my standards but I do live in a street where
I'm the first one out of bed. Maybe I should put those disks back on :-)

Thanks for the post - I'm feeling really good about this purchase and can't
wait to hit the trails.

Regards,

Chris




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Eastern riders
Date: 23 Apr 1999 22:26:26 EDT

Anyone on this list in the southeast...Carolinas, Tennessee, Georgia?? And if
so, y'all want to organize a DR trailride weekend somewhere?? Let me know if
you are interested....you can reply to [e-mail] or just reply on this
list! I have some fair trail potential around here, I could organize a small
group of maybe ten bikes for a good covert ride around here....lots of street
miles to link together some good trail, goes from boggy swamp conditions to
almost mountainous here in Marlboro county!!
 Lemme know.........Scott



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Fw: Cartridge Emulators...
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:33:30 -0600

I thought this would be a good addtion to the archives, short and hopefully
accurate....

Kurt
-----Original Message-----


>> I also have a '81 R80 G/S....it came with a rear Ohlin....but what are
these
>> Race-Tech thingamabobs???
>
> Since the answer got a little long I thought I might as well bore
> everyone...
>
> Somewhere on http://www.race-tech.com/ there's a detailed description
> of what emulators do.
>
> Basically, damping-rod forks damp motion by forcing oil through fixed
> orifices; unfortunately that gives you damping that goes up as the
> square of velocity (which is a Bad Thing for compression damping,
> sharp bumps can generate near-hydraulic lockup).  Cartridge forks (and
> modern shocks) use elaborate shim stacks instead to get much more linear
> damping.
>
> Cartridge emulators are spring-valves that sit on top of the rod (under
> the spring) in damping rod forks and provide a spring-valve control for
> compression damping - ideally making comp. damping more linear.  (For
> rebound damping it doesn't matter much since you only have the spring
> pushing back).
>
> They do help in my (relatively limited) experience, though installing
> correct springs and the right weight oil makes a much bigger difference,
> you should get those set right first... and replace old seals and
> bushings.
>
> If you send your damping-rod forks to Lindemann Engineering for
> example (a suspension shop), what they'll do (instead of emulators) is
> re-size the damping holes for your riding style etc.  Which is better,
> hard to say, I race one bike done by Lindemann and one done by Race-Tech,
> they both work well... cost is about the same.
>
>
>Chris Moll
>'92 CBR600 F2, '89 FZR400, '96 XR250R, '94 GS500
>AFM #653
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 16:06:19 -0500
Date: 23 Apr 1999 20:52:21 -0600



+AD4-Are the messages in this list archived?  I'd love to see past posts and
+AD4-catch up on what I've missed.
+AD4-
+AD4-Chuck Vokac
+AD4-Panama City


yep...and web searchable at www.listquest.com

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Eastern riders
Date: 23 Apr 1999 23:56:09 -0400

For southern dual sport rides and riders check out
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyo/5245
its a site for southern dual sporters!
GA/TN/FL/SC/NC/VA/WV

Robert
-----Original Message-----


>Anyone on this list in the southeast...Carolinas, Tennessee, Georgia?? And
if
>so, y'all want to organize a DR trailride weekend somewhere?? Let me know
if
>you are interested....you can reply to [e-mail] or just reply on
this
>list! I have some fair trail potential around here, I could organize a
small
>group of maybe ten bikes for a good covert ride around here....lots of
street
>miles to link together some good trail, goes from boggy swamp conditions to
>almost mountainous here in Marlboro county!!
> Lemme know.........Scott
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "WDSRC" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Eastern riders  II
Date: 23 Apr 1999 23:58:47 -0400

made a mistake with the URL. For Southern Dual sporting check out
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
GA/TN/AL/MS/FL/SC/NC/VA/WV

Join 'em, they have a dynamite newsletter!

Robert
-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>


>For southern dual sport rides and riders check out
>http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyo/5245
>its a site for southern dual sporters!
>GA/TN/FL/SC/NC/VA/WV
>
>Robert
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
>Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 10:31 PM
>Subject: (dr350) Eastern riders
>
>
>>Anyone on this list in the southeast...Carolinas, Tennessee, Georgia?? And
>if
>>so, y'all want to organize a DR trailride weekend somewhere?? Let me know
>if
>>you are interested....you can reply to [e-mail] or just reply on
>this
>>list! I have some fair trail potential around here, I could organize a
>small
>>group of maybe ten bikes for a good covert ride around here....lots of
>street
>>miles to link together some good trail, goes from boggy swamp conditions
to
>>almost mountainous here in Marlboro county!!
>> Lemme know.........Scott
>>
>>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Sucky swingarm!!!
Date: 23 Apr 1999 23:51:30 EDT

Has anyone had experience with welding the braces on the DR swingarm to make
them semi-boxed?? Kinda like what Scotts or Thumper would do?? I can weld
aluminum, just wondering if y'all use a jig or what you do to avoid
warping.....can cut the braces to size as well....Help!!
                                        [e-mail]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:17:10 -0500

Well, in a fit of delerium I took the carb apart from my 92DR350S.  First
I drilled off the air pilot screw plug (one thick mother) and backed it 2
1/2 turns from the seated position.  I put a 1mm washer on the needle so
it stayed backed out of the main jet nozzle just a bit.  I put it all
back together again (after stripping the pilot jet - how the hell do you
get that thing out of there? and tearing the float seat o-ring - dammit!)
 I was amazed that the bike started after such a nasty assault.  I rode
down the street and did a wheelie (my version of a wheelie) in 1st but
couldn't do one in 2nd.  I figured this was the best way to test the new
awesome results of my carb mods but the bike failed the test.  However,
this simple adjustment did give me quicker throttle response and the bike
doesn't seem to run so lean anymore (my expert opinion).  I'll be
interested to see if the Thumper racing JX needle does anything more.  I
wonder if Thumper is just selling parts from another carb like the DR350
dirt version.  Anyway  - I guess things went OK with my mod and the
washer on the needle thing seems to work well.

Chuck Vokac - Panama City, FL

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) hyperlink to DR350 mail list archive
Date: 23 Apr 1999 23:40:08 EDT

 <A HREF="http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350">ListQuest -
Search Options
</A>



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Anybody got a 435 kit from thumper
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:27:36 -0700

I have set up three DRs dirt models and they are still going including mine
I believe the Thumper is the best way to go due to the Nascar wrist pin
which seems to hold up better. I bore the carbs out to 35.175mm ,do the
magic air box , white bros oversize header & megamax silencer and megacycle
mild cam with R&D springs.
these are 1990 year model bikes and have been in service about four and a
half years. I am semi-retired and have a small shop in Grants Pass OR. I
used to be a Suzuki dealer in Montana. [e-mail] hope this gives you
something to think about. Incidently these bikes do haul A---

Bret Gergely wrote:

> I am new to the list and I have a 95 DR350SE and 96 DR350S.  I drilled
> holes on both air boxes and they run great.  On the SE I took off almost
> all of the street crap.  I was wondering if anyone had a 435cc kit from
> thumper or any big bore kit.  I wanted to know about the reliability of
> it.  I was wondering if it came with a new camshaft if not how
> beneficial would it be too get one.  How bout' buying one without doing
> any other engine mods, would it help a lot?  Thanks for any input.
>
> Bret Gergely




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 24 Apr 1999 00:28:02 EDT

In a message dated 4/23/99 2:39:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem to
be
 getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep this
 list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.
  >>

 Well since I made the midget comment let me explain that I was just pulling
gino's leg a little. Believe me when I say that this is not the place that I
get confrontational. I save all of my hostility for my local authorized
Suzuki dealer. As to getting a little silly, all I can say is man I gotta be
me.


Kurt,
 Thanks for straighting me out on the E-mail thing. When it comes to
computers I always start out the hard way.


Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Sucky swingarm!!!
Date: 23 Apr 1999 21:33:17 -0700

I have a template for this; [e-mail]

[e-mail] wrote:

> Has anyone had experience with welding the braces on the DR swingarm to make
> them semi-boxed?? Kinda like what Scotts or Thumper would do?? I can weld
> aluminum, just wondering if y'all use a jig or what you do to avoid
> warping.....can cut the braces to size as well....Help!!
>                                         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 24 Apr 1999 02:51:26 -0500



>> I switched out my stock steel bars yesterday for some blue Answer
>> Alumilite bars.  I could hardly tell the diff in weight between the
>> factory steel bars and my new Alumilites; but the factory bars are
>> welded on ea end, making installation of bark-busters impossible.
>  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
>(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
>end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
>confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and >had a
close encounter and I came out the victor.

Wow!  you knocked over a redwood?
>
>--
>Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "chasmatic" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 24 Apr 1999 03:03:45 -0500


>Chuck Vokac - Panama City FL.
>p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem to
be
>getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep this
>list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.

Chuck, don't be so sensitive.  This good natured discussion has been going
on for some time now.  However, if you are under 4'10" tall, please forgive
me  :-)
>






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 24 Apr 1999 07:00:38 -0400

On the silly side.

Are you pulling Ginos leg because the only exercise it gets is when he walks
back into the house for his second cup of coffee after pushing his magic
button??

I personally enjoy my kick start DR for several reasons. On cold Michigan
mornings kicking the thing to life is an opportunity to warm up before
blasting down the trails.

Secondly, if the bike is tempermental about starting (a rare occurence) , it
inspires me to ride cleaner at the start of a loop as I know I won't have
the energy to pick the bike up if I go down. Crashing early would  require
that I wait for my riding partners to catch up to help. On several ocasions
they have miss interpeted me laying under the bike. I do     this to let
them know  I need asistence. They think its my way of letting them pass
without hurting their youngblooded ring-a-ding egos. Usually the smell of
2-stroke oil as they roost past is enough to rejuvinate me. I have no
trouble restarting when there is fire in my eyes.
Sorry, too much coffee this morning and the wife has a silly rule about
starting work in the garage before sunrise. I sign off as the sun peeks over
the eastern horizion. Its supposed to be 60 and sunny in Detroit today after
a week of rain. Looks like a good day to ride.
---Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 4/23/99 2:39:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem
to
>be
> getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep
this
> list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.
>  >>
>
> Well since I made the midget comment let me explain that I was just
pulling
>gino's leg a little. Believe me when I say that this is not the place that
I
>get confrontational. I save all of my hostility for my local authorized
>Suzuki dealer. As to getting a little silly, all I can say is man I gotta
be
>me.
>
>
>Kurt,
> Thanks for straighting me out on the E-mail thing. When it comes to
>computers I always start out the hard way.
>
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "david olson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:39:19 -0500
Date: 24 Apr 1999 07:00:38 -0400

On the silly side.

Are you pulling Ginos leg because the only exercise it gets is when he walks
back into the house for his second cup of coffee after pushing his magic
button??

I personally enjoy my kick start DR for several reasons. On cold Michigan
mornings kicking the thing to life is an opportunity to warm up before
blasting down the trails.

Secondly, if the bike is tempermental about starting (a rare occurence) , it
inspires me to ride cleaner at the start of a loop as I know I won't have
the energy to pick the bike up if I go down. Crashing early would  require
that I wait for my riding partners to catch up to help. On several ocasions
they have miss interpeted me laying under the bike. I do     this to let
them know  I need asistence. They think its my way of letting them pass
without hurting their youngblooded ring-a-ding egos. Usually the smell of
2-stroke oil as they roost past is enough to rejuvinate me. I have no
trouble restarting when there is fire in my eyes.
Sorry, too much coffee this morning and the wife has a silly rule about
starting work in the garage before sunrise. I sign off as the sun peeks over
the eastern horizion. Its supposed to be 60 and sunny in Detroit today after
a week of rain. Looks like a good day to ride.
---Original Message-----
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>In a message dated 4/23/99 2:39:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
>[e-mail] writes:
>
><< p.s. Some of the discussions (i.e. midgets and electric starters) seem
to
>be
> getting a little confrontational and maybe a little silly.  Let's keep
this
> list COOL - we are all DR bretheren.
>  >>
>
> Well since I made the midget comment let me explain that I was just
pulling
>gino's leg a little. Believe me when I say that this is not the place that
I
>get confrontational. I save all of my hostility for my local authorized
>Suzuki dealer. As to getting a little silly, all I can say is man I gotta
be
>me.
>
>
>Kurt,
> Thanks for straighting me out on the E-mail thing. When it comes to
>computers I always start out the hard way.
>
>
>Mike A.
>Nashville
>
>





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Thumper instructions...
Date: 24 Apr 1999 08:38:12 -0600

Thumper advertises a set of instructions for modifying the airbox that they
include with the Jx needle and spring...anyone receive those and willing to
share them with the list?

Thanks,

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Aldrich <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) spark plug; service/clymer manual; torque specs
Date: 24 Apr 1999 9:23:46 PDT

> >  Almost impossible :-)  I went ahead and drilled a hole into the weld
> >(not easy) and then made a tap for some screws that are flanged on the
> >end.  This seems to work perfect for my bark busters.  I was able to
> >confirm that they work great this week as a large sized redwood and I
> >had a close encounter and I came out the victor.
>
> Wow!  you knocked over a redwood?

  Uuhh, not exactly.  Let's just say I bounced off of it, but I didn't
go down.  If I don't go down, then I figure I win :-)  The only guy I
know that knocked over a tree was Merf.  And it sounds like the tree
got revenge because when it came down, it landed on him and flattened
him pretty good (he did eventually get up).

--
Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 24 Apr 1999 15:28:05 -0500

I just went riding this morning to try out my new carb mods.  To recap, I
put a 1mm washer on the needle of my 92dr350s and have cut holes in the
top of the airbox.  I have a stock muffler, airbox,  filter - I have a
135 main jet, stock pilot jet and 2 1/2 turns from seated position for
the air pilot screw.  I haven't installed the JX needle/ spring yet.  The
results are as follows:  There is definitely more responsiveness in mid
range.  On the trails, there was a noticeable improvement in 1st through
4th gear all the way through to  wide open throttle.  I had to watch
myself because the bike lurched forward a little  in 1st and 2nd because
of what seemed like an increase in power compared to what I am used to.
The bike also seemed to run a little quieter but that might be my
imagination.  Wide open in 6th on the road  to the trails wasn't changed
noticeably - neither was top end speed or rpms at top speed.  The bike
idled and coasted fine.  It doesn't seem to be running lean anymore.  I
am very pleased!  I don't think I will use a bigger main jet for fear of
causing the bike to run too rich.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City, FL
(thanks to all for the help)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) bryan's carb saga...
Date: 24 Apr 1999 17:54:06 PDT

I know you guys cant wait to know how I'm coming along with my carb,
so here it is:

I'd put in a Thumper JX needle & spring, a 130 main (stock 127.5), and
a 40 pilot (stock 37.5).  Ran great at mid & high rpm, but was rough
at idle....too rich.  Put the stock pilot back in, drilled out the
brass plug, backed out the pilot adj (fuel mix?) screw 1 full turn,
put it back together & it ran great everywhere & iddled smooth.  Good
throttle response.  A few of you had warned me that I may have screwed
up the float level when I had it apart, but I guess I didnt.

With all that being said, I just got back from the MX playground,
doing about 30 min of small jumps, woops, etc.  After 30 minutes, bike
started running really rough.  Got back on the hiway heading home, &
it smoothed out at full throttle & eventualy ran well again.  Right by
my house there is a 45 degree long high dirt hill that I rode up &
down about 5 times, & sure enough, the bogging/cutting out started
again.  Went away on my way home after some full throttle street time.
 When I looked at it in my garage, there was some gas dripping off of
my idle adjustment screw, & gas was all around the bowl.  I dont know
what the deal is....after I wiped it off, it wasnt still coming
out...no leaks or anything.  I guess the hill made it happen.  Whats
going on here?  Are these carbs on the SE's not tough enough to do the
wild stuff in the dirt (not that what I was doing was wild)?  Are the
dirt only carbs not CV?  Does that make them alot better?

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Change your stock fuel lines!
Date: 24 Apr 1999 18:10:36 PDT

Forgot to mention in my last carb update post..

I ran about 50 miles between recent carb tear-downs.  Time before, I
completely cleaned the bowl, float, everything.  There was alot of
fine black powder all in there.  This morning when I tore it up,,,er,
open, the black powder crap was back!  This is the deteriorating cheap
lousy fuel line that Suz put on!!  I put it back together w/ some neat
looking super thick transparent blue LeMans urethane fuel line, and
stuck a high-flow steel screen filter in line for good measure.  Next
time I tear it open, I bet I dont see the black powder crap.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) bryan's carb saga...
Date: 24 Apr 1999 18:46:52 -0700

Bryan sounds like the float is a little high,ok on level stuff but when
you go up or get on un even ground it starts dumping to much fuel into the
carb causing a rich condition. The excess fuel you found around the bottom
of the carb but no visable
leaks indicate this condition check your manual for proper float level.
Air screw adjustment should be made with the engine fully warmed up and
running adjust air screw to highest rpms obtainable then correct back down
with the idle adjustment then play with the air screw again to get more
rpms  and correct idle again until you cannot increase the rpms with the
air screw. Hope this helps  [e-mail]

Bryan Nolastname wrote:

> I know you guys cant wait to know how I'm coming along with my carb,
> so here it is:
>
> I'd put in a Thumper JX needle & spring, a 130 main (stock 127.5), and
> a 40 pilot (stock 37.5).  Ran great at mid & high rpm, but was rough
> at idle....too rich.  Put the stock pilot back in, drilled out the
> brass plug, backed out the pilot adj (fuel mix?) screw 1 full turn,
> put it back together & it ran great everywhere & iddled smooth.  Good
> throttle response.  A few of you had warned me that I may have screwed
> up the float level when I had it apart, but I guess I didnt.
>
> With all that being said, I just got back from the MX playground,
> doing about 30 min of small jumps, woops, etc.  After 30 minutes, bike
> started running really rough.  Got back on the hiway heading home, &
> it smoothed out at full throttle & eventualy ran well again.  Right by
> my house there is a 45 degree long high dirt hill that I rode up &
> down about 5 times, & sure enough, the bogging/cutting out started
> again.  Went away on my way home after some full throttle street time.
>  When I looked at it in my garage, there was some gas dripping off of
> my idle adjustment screw, & gas was all around the bowl.  I dont know
> what the deal is....after I wiped it off, it wasnt still coming
> out...no leaks or anything.  I guess the hill made it happen.  Whats
> going on here?  Are these carbs on the SE's not tough enough to do the
> wild stuff in the dirt (not that what I was doing was wild)?  Are the
> dirt only carbs not CV?  Does that make them alot better?
>
> Bryan in Dallas
> 95 DR350SE
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) dr350 newbie
Date: 24 Apr 1999 22:08:27 EDT

I am looking to buy my first dirt bike after many years of mountain biking
and road motorcycling....I guess the two have finally merged.  I am looking
into buying a used DR350, but i dont know all that much about them.  I can
afford an early '90's model.  SInce the bike is mostly going to be used off
road I think I want to get the straight DR350(not the se) and then adapt it
for occasional trail run-between road rides with the Baja Designs street
legal kit.  Is this the best alternative?  How agile is the bike in Eastern
(new england) trail riding terrain?  Any advice would be very helpful.
Thanks in advance.

Marcus



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 24 Apr 1999 22:55:00 -0500

Pilot screw adjustment is described in the CVK40 guide like this:
Gently turn the pilot mixture screw clockwise until it's seated.  Back it
out 2 full turns.      Now thoroughly warm the engine and set the
idle to 1300 RPM with the large throttle stop screw on the right side of
the carb.  Slowly back the pilot screw out until the idle starts to slow
and note the total number of turns out from its seat.  Now slowly screw
the pilot screw back in until the idle again starts to slow.  Do the math
and set your pilot screw between the two points where the idle slowed.
    Did you check the o-ring at the base of the float valve seat?  I
tore mine and now the seat doesn't fit properly (still runs OK though).
     I am pleased with my carb mod results but I want try different
things now.  I have been thinking about this all day.  I want to try a
larger main jet with hopes of increasing power at full throttle.  Also, I
want to put another washer on the needle and see if that makes things
even better.  Is this how it starts?  You start making a few mods and
then you start thinking about rebore kits and new carburetors.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City, FL

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Date: 24 Apr 1999 22:50:55 -0400 (EDT)

Chuck,
  You are correct, this is how it starts,  after you get the max from
your carb you eventually get used to it, then comes :  pipe, airbox, big
bore, cam, bigger headpipe,  or some combination of the above. It is a
neverending journey for the perfect bike, that's why we can't leave them
alone  Good luck,
Jim A..





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) airbox
Date: 25 Apr 1999 00:46:03 -0400 (EDT)

My friend has his bike jetted up to a 135 from a 127.5 and an fmf
magemax muffler.before he cut the airbox he wanted to see how it would
run.He removed the door to somewhat replicate cutting the top of the box
and took it for a spin.He told me the bike fell on it's face.At higher
rpms it was poping and really turding out.Would there be something for
him to adjust for the bike to run better?Now he is real leary of cutting
his box but i hear all you guys telling of how great it is.Does anyone
know how to set the suspension for trial riding.I'm looking to set it up
like a dirtbike suspension.My bike is a 98 and has both adjustable
rebound and damping on the front and rear.Thanks for any help guys.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles w vokac <[e-mail]>
Date: 25 Apr 1999 10:21:43 -0500

About your friend's carb:
I took the door off the airbox of my 92drS and my bike ran like crap too.
 However, when I cut holes in the top it ran great - although lean.  I
think the carb gets too much air with the door open.  There's a foam
gasket on the airbox door.  Remove that and put the door back on and  you
won't get as much air as with the door open but about as much air as with
holes in the top.  However, water and other junk can get into the box
easily with the gasket off so be careful.     You can buy a carb kit
specifically designed to work with the airbox door open - from Cycle Gear
I think for around $60.

Chuck Vokac
Panama City, FL

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Re:
Date: 25 Apr 1999 11:11:06 EDT

In a message dated 4/24/99 9:34:34 PM Central Daylight Time, [e-mail]
writes:

<<  I am pleased with my carb mod results but I want try different
 things now.  I have been thinking about this all day.  I want to try a
 larger main jet with hopes of increasing power at full throttle.  Also, I
 want to put another washer on the needle and see if that makes things
 even better.  Is this how it starts?  You start making a few mods and
 then you start thinking about rebore kits and new carburetors.
  >>

 Thats exactly how it starts! :)

Mike A
Nashville






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) dr350 newbie
Date: 25 Apr 1999 09:40:05 -0700

Good idea but get at least a 91 it has the updated kickstart arrangement in it
and while we are on that subject. I have had to make major repairs on two DRs
because some guys bypass the normal kick start ritual and this places a serious
load on the end of the output shaft and can break it inside just past the
bearing leaving the shaft only supported by the bearing just in from the
sprocket . caution, be patient, use your compression release ritual !!! when
this happens it throws metal pieces into the oil pump and beyond, a big mess
enough already I don,t want sound heavy handed but you don,t want any part of
this scenario. [e-mail]

[e-mail] wrote:

> I am looking to buy my first dirt bike after many years of mountain biking
> and road motorcycling....I guess the two have finally merged.  I am looking
> into buying a used DR350, but i dont know all that much about them.  I can
> afford an early '90's model.  SInce the bike is mostly going to be used off
> road I think I want to get the straight DR350(not the se) and then adapt it
> for occasional trail run-between road rides with the Baja Designs street
> legal kit.  Is this the best alternative?  How agile is the bike in Eastern
> (new england) trail riding terrain?  Any advice would be very helpful.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Marcus




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thumper instructions...
Date: 25 Apr 1999 09:53:44 PDT

I got no instructions of any kind w/ my needle & spring from
Thumper...only an exploded diagram of the carb.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
>To: "DR List" <[e-mail]>
>Subject: (dr350) Thumper instructions...
>Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:38:12 -0600
>
>Thumper advertises a set of instructions for modifying the airbox
that they
>include with the Jx needle and spring...anyone receive those and
willing to
>share them with the list?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kurt
>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) lethal weapons
Date: 26 Apr 1999 08:36:36 -0400 (EDT)

I took a spill in some deep sand yesterday and hurt my shoulder pretty
bad.Went to the ER and nothing broken or seperated thank god.I have been
making the mistake of riding off road with the stock tires.Anyway my
point is we all fall at one time or another but if you are an SE owner
your mirrors become lethal weapons on impact.That is what my right
shoulder got driven into when I crashed.Two words on the stock mirrors
LOSE THEM if you have not already.There are fold down mirrors that are
avialable to get the damn things out of the way altogether.Gonna order a
set today along with tires and a good chest protector.I always wear a
helmet but that was it.Now I am gonna buy some more protective gear
something me and my buddys mistakenly overlooked.Guys,don't learn the
hard way like me it could have been worse this was my wake up call wear
the right gear when you play in the woods!!!!




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike Harpster" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Carb Quirks
Date: 26 Apr 1999 09:02:58 -0400

My 98 DR350se and I got horizontal the other day while trail riding. I
managed to keep the bike running and after picking it up it would just
bog out if I tried to rev it over about 2000 rpm. It took a good 5
minutes before it would run right. Here's where it gets weird- I
finished riding the trail and rode home at about 40 mph and it was
running OK. I shut it off for about 30 mins. and then rode it again and
it was running really rough again. This isn't the first time this has
happened, eventually it seems to clean itself out and then it runs fine.
Anyone else had this happen? If so can someone tell me what is causing
it and if there is anything to remedy it (besides not falling down).
Also does anyone have a good routine for restarting a hot bike after
falling down?
                                                Thanks; Mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: loren bohl <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Quirks
Date: 26 Apr 1999 08:27:10 -0700

Mike Harpster wrote:
>
> My 98 DR350se and I got horizontal the other day while trail riding. I
> managed to keep the bike running and after picking it up it would just
> bog out if I tried to rev it over about 2000 rpm. It took a good 5
> minutes before it would run right. Here's where it gets weird- I
> finished riding the trail and rode home at about 40 mph and it was
> running OK. I shut it off for about 30 mins. and then rode it again and
> it was running really rough again. This isn't the first time this has
> happened, eventually it seems to clean itself out and then it runs fine.
> Anyone else had this happen? If so can someone tell me what is causing
> it and if there is anything to remedy it (besides not falling down).
> Also does anyone have a good routine for restarting a hot bike after
> falling down?
>                                                 Thanks; Mike

    I have a '98 SE and have had a similar problem, mine finally quit
running about the time I made it to the dealer, and that never happens,
usually a bike will run fantastic with in about a block of the shop.

    the mechanic actually couldn't get the thing running after the bout of
popping and acting like a two stroke with a fouled plug. I stayed and we
changed the plug, looked for water in the wire harness, drained the
carb, and rubbed our chins. The bike finally restarted, and ran just as
poorly. I left the bike for a day, he went through the carb and checked
a few other things, but never found the problem. When I picked it up it
ran fine, he gave me the old "try it and see how it works".

    the only time it did it again was in the woods in some really tight
stuff it sputtered and popped through out the day and has never done it
since. I wish I could tell you exactly what the mech. did but he said it
was apparently a piece of dirt or something in the carb that he didn't
see but cleaned out.

L Bohl



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "C. Coons" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Quirks
Date: 26 Apr 1999 09:11:02 -0500

This has happened to me (more than once).  I think that gas gets into the
airbox.  If you squeeze the airbox drain gas usually comes out.  Treating it
like it is flooded (WFO throttle) helps clear it up.  Another good reason to
stay vertical.



>My 98 DR350se and I got horizontal the other day while trail riding. I
>managed to keep the bike running and after picking it up it would just
>bog out if I tried to rev it over about 2000 rpm. It took a good 5
>minutes before it would run right. Here's where it gets weird- I
>finished riding the trail and rode home at about 40 mph and it was
>running OK. I shut it off for about 30 mins. and then rode it again and
>it was running really rough again. This isn't the first time this has
>happened, eventually it seems to clean itself out and then it runs fine.
>Anyone else had this happen? If so can someone tell me what is causing
>it and if there is anything to remedy it (besides not falling down).
>Also does anyone have a good routine for restarting a hot bike after
>falling down?
>                                                Thanks; Mike
>
>




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: (dr350) airfilter
Date: 26 Apr 1999 10:15:58 -0400 (EDT)

Anyone out there use a K&N air filter?The guy at the dealer told me it
would let sand in the carb.My friend uses one in his quad and that is
the only place he goes is sand pits with no problems with hs filter.Any
sugg.





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Sucky swingarm!!!
Date: 26 Apr 1999 09:17:03 -0700

Scot,

Yes; plenty of welding done here. I went from non-braced, to an inward braced,
to an in-and-out braced, then back to non-braced swing arm. From my experience
you will gain little stability from all of the bracing, certainly not what you
might think; it still had the side-hop even after all of my bracing efforts,
just *some* less, certainly dissapointing after all of that work. May I suggest
you try the Kouba Link - much less trouble and risk.

BTW, Norm is not paying me to say this (I paid full retail), I'm just a
satisfied customer that found a solution, and wanting to save you & others the
trouble and expense. Of late I have moved on to RMX legs since the front forks
have not lived up to my expectations; an RMX shock went in to balance my setup.

John

Has anyone had experience with welding the braces on the DR swingarm to make
them semi-boxed?? Kinda like what Scotts or Thumper would do?? I can weld
aluminum, just wondering if y'all use a jig or what you do to avoid
warping.....can cut the braces to size as well....Help!!
                                        [e-mail]






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) suggestion
Date: 26 Apr 1999 19:34:22 PDT

Here's a suggestion for Kurt or anyone else that may want to take the
time to do it:

check out    http://grundlesoftware.com/xr400/XRMods.htm

This is a page on the XR400 site where owners post what mods they've
done to their bikes.  It would be cool if we had a similar area.


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Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) who makes 385 kit
Date: 26 Apr 1999 22:49:30 -0400



People have been talking about a 385 kit.  Sounds like a good choice for
me.  I was wondering who makes it, the price, and a number or website
were I can get in contact with them.  I also want to thank the people
who emailed me back before (especially John, he was a lot of help).

Bret
95 DR350SE
96 DR350S




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Quirks
Date: 26 Apr 1999 22:10:08 -0600

?Dirt or water in the carb bowl, or tank?  I have had water in my fuel
several times, with similar symptoms.  Try draining the bowl, and a can of
Heat in the tank.  TW





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) K&N airfilters
Date: 27 Apr 1999 01:18:53 -0400 (EDT)

John,
    K&N filters are very  good filters, They should not suck sand unless
installed improperly. The only down side is they are aggravating to line
up the screw to hold them in plus they can get clogged if you drop the
bike in deep water. For general riding they are great.
                        Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (john miller)
Subject: Re: (dr350) K&N airfilters
Date: 27 Apr 1999 07:44:35 -0400 (EDT)

Had somone e-mail me telling me the k&n air filter does not fit inside
the airbox.He claimed it is too long.Do they all fit?would anyone happen
to know model #.My bike is completely stock 98se with 600miles on
it.This was the first thing I was going to do to the bike.Is there
something anyone else has in mind.Thanks guys.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Andrus Chesley)
Subject: (dr350) Re:Carb Quirks
Date: 27 Apr 1999 06:40:22 -0500

For added information in this field.  I have had run problems with
different bikes after laying it down, upside down, where ever..  Once in
awhile, for some reason, the float will hang and give you a flooded
condition.  This is corrected ( most times ) by banging on the  float
bowel with a wrench, screwdiver, etc. Not ever time , but many times
this will work and get things back settled in the carb.  Just another
thing to check..

--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) airfilter
Date: 27 Apr 1999 08:05:36 EDT

 I have used a K&N filter for over a year. I ride in sandy and muddy
conditions and have never seen the least bit of sand in the carb. I love the
improved air flow I get with the K&N. The biggest downside to this filter is
that it is a bit of a pain to install. Hope this  helps.

Mike A
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) K&N airfilters
Date: 27 Apr 1999 05:23:13 PDT

When I got my K&N, I struggled for about 30 min trying to get  it to
fit (you dont have enough room to maneuver the screw through the
filter and into the mounting hole).  Called Thumper Racing to ask if
there was a trick, and they advised taking off the airbox boot and
reaching in from the inside to help guide the bolt into place.  It
worked.  BUT....if I'd have known what a hassel it would be, I
would've bought a Uni....which are probably just as good, easier to
install & clean.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE

>Had somone e-mail me telling me the k&n air filter does not fit
inside
>the airbox.He claimed it is too long.Do they all fit?would anyone
happen
>to know model #.My bike is completely stock 98se with 600miles on
>it.This was the first thing I was going to do to the bike.Is there
>something anyone else has in mind.Thanks guys.
>
>


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Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) why cut handlebars?
Date: 27 Apr 1999 05:28:53 PDT

I just put new high CR-bend Alumilite handlebars on.  I like em.  The
local MX shop guy mentioned that most people cut them down.  If
racing in woods, I guess I can see the obvious advantage.  But here
in N. TX, thats not a likely scenario.  Is there any
handling/steering advantages to having wider bars as opposed to
cutting them down?  The only reason I can see for me personally to do
this is to get my bark-busters to mount on a straight part of the bar
nearer to the mounting clamps.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) why cut handlebars?
Date: 27 Apr 1999 08:37:00 -0400

If you don't need to cut them down to fit thru the trees, then don't cut
them. There is more stability in the bike with wider handlebars, it give yo
more leverage
 ----------

I just put new high CR-bend Alumilite handlebars on.  I like em.  The
local MX shop guy mentioned that most people cut them down.  If
racing in woods, I guess I can see the obvious advantage.  But here
in N. TX, thats not a likely scenario.  Is there any
handling/steering advantages to having wider bars as opposed to
cutting them down?  The only reason I can see for me personally to do
this is to get my bark-busters to mount on a straight part of the bar
nearer to the mounting clamps.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) who makes 385 kit
Date: 27 Apr 1999 06:34:41 -0700

Bret,

White Brothers & Scott's (818-248-bike) have the piston kit; I suggest the
latter as they have jetting specs. By kit I mean it comes with a new wrist pin,
circlips, rings; I do not know if it comes with gaskets, though. Scott's has the
provisions to do the bore, but so would any shop you trust (shop & trust: do
those two words go together often?).

Two Zook shops near me both have the pistons in stock & boring capability
(boring/capability: there's another two words that may or may not go together
well).

John




Bret Gergely <[e-mail]> on 04/26/99 07:49:30 PM

Please respond to Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)






People have been talking about a 385 kit.  Sounds like a good choice for
me.  I was wondering who makes it, the price, and a number or website
were I can get in contact with them.  I also want to thank the people
who emailed me back before (especially John, he was a lot of help).

Bret
95 DR350SE
96 DR350S











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Carb Quirks
Date: 27 Apr 1999 09:02:03 -0700

mike , shut the fuel pet cock off, then open the throttle wide open and pull
in the compression release and kick it through a half dozen times then try
to start it keep doing this until it starts. Don,t forget to turn the fuel
pet cock back on I know better but forgot this the other day and made it as
far as the middle of a steep hill this gets your attention!!   Hope this
helps, Jesse @is-plus.net

Mike Harpster wrote:

> My 98 DR350se and I got horizontal the other day while trail riding. I
> managed to keep the bike running and after picking it up it would just
> bog out if I tried to rev it over about 2000 rpm. It took a good 5
> minutes before it would run right. Here's where it gets weird- I
> finished riding the trail and rode home at about 40 mph and it was
> running OK. I shut it off for about 30 mins. and then rode it again and
> it was running really rough again. This isn't the first time this has
> happened, eventually it seems to clean itself out and then it runs fine.
> Anyone else had this happen? If so can someone tell me what is causing
> it and if there is anything to remedy it (besides not falling down).
> Also does anyone have a good routine for restarting a hot bike after
> falling down?
>                                                 Thanks; Mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Sucky swingarm!!!
Date: 27 Apr 1999 09:15:53 -0700

Scot I have done this and have a template and some sheet aluminum that I made mine
from I would make you a couple for $ 30.00  or send you a copy of the template, it
takes two or three hours depending on what you have toolwise fitting the pieces to
the swing arm cutting  and filing etc. let me know what you would like to do.
Jesse @is-plus.net

[e-mail] wrote:

> Scot,
>
> Yes; plenty of welding done here. I went from non-braced, to an inward braced,
> to an in-and-out braced, then back to non-braced swing arm. From my experience
> you will gain little stability from all of the bracing, certainly not what you
> might think; it still had the side-hop even after all of my bracing efforts,
> just *some* less, certainly dissapointing after all of that work. May I suggest
> you try the Kouba Link - much less trouble and risk.
>
> BTW, Norm is not paying me to say this (I paid full retail), I'm just a
> satisfied customer that found a solution, and wanting to save you & others the
> trouble and expense. Of late I have moved on to RMX legs since the front forks
> have not lived up to my expectations; an RMX shock went in to balance my setup.
>
> John
>
> Has anyone had experience with welding the braces on the DR swingarm to make
> them semi-boxed?? Kinda like what Scotts or Thumper would do?? I can weld
> aluminum, just wondering if y'all use a jig or what you do to avoid
> warping.....can cut the braces to size as well....Help!!
>                                         [e-mail]




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) who makes 385 kit
Date: 27 Apr 1999 09:22:23 -0700

Bret, I just did a 385 for a guy with a 96 DR dirt model, it runs great
White Bros. has the kits for this. It uses the stock cylinder bored to 83mm.
Hope this helps.  Jesse @is-plus.net

Bret Gergely wrote:

> People have been talking about a 385 kit.  Sounds like a good choice for
> me.  I was wondering who makes it, the price, and a number or website
> were I can get in contact with them.  I also want to thank the people
> who emailed me back before (especially John, he was a lot of help).
>
> Bret
> 95 DR350SE
> 96 DR350S




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Over size piston kits
Date: 27 Apr 1999 16:56:34 EDT

 I have heard several different people talk about different kits. This is
very intesting to me since I plan on doing an oversizing kit this winter.
What I am wondering, does anybody out there have any dyno comparisions on the
various routes to go. I ride mostly tight woods so I am looking for very
strong gains to the bottom and mid range. Ofcourse a snapier throttle
response would also be appreciated. I would appreciate your input.

Mike A.
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Over size piston kits
Date: 27 Apr 1999 14:24:26 -0700

>I have heard several different people talk about different kits. This is
very intesting to me since I plan on doing an oversizing kit this winter.
What I am wondering, does anybody out there have any dyno comparisions on the
various routes to go.

Take a look at the chart in http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/mods.html. It shows
the stock 350 v. 385 vs. 441. I have the write up if you want it.

> I ride mostly tight woods so I am looking for very
strong gains to the bottom and mid range. Ofcourse a snapier throttle
response would also be appreciated. I would appreciate your input.
Mike A.
Nashville

Golly Mike; you're like the rest of us out here: really wanting it all :-) I
don't blame you.

It depends upon how much snap you want; it is somewhat proportional to the
displacement amongst other things. For woods riding I'd stay away from the
435/441 as they may have too much hit, and go with the modest boost from the
385. I have a 441 mated to a pumper carb, and it lurches forward in the tight
stuff, but it is oh-so-nice when things open up.

John









-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Over size piston kits
Date: 27 Apr 1999 14:34:59 -0700

Mike; Thumper 435 is in my opinion the best out there from your description of
what you want. I recently described on the list that I have done four to date
with excellent results for more info contact me [e-mail] or 541-472-0835

[e-mail] wrote:

>  I have heard several different people talk about different kits. This is
> very intesting to me since I plan on doing an oversizing kit this winter.
> What I am wondering, does anybody out there have any dyno comparisions on the
> various routes to go. I ride mostly tight woods so I am looking for very
> strong gains to the bottom and mid range. Ofcourse a snapier throttle
> response would also be appreciated. I would appreciate your input.
>
> Mike A.
> Nashville




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Thumper have a website.
Date: 27 Apr 1999 17:50:47 -0400


Does Thumper have a website?  I haven't been able to find one.  Also do
they have a catalog that I can order.

Bret
95 DR350SE
96 DR350S




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Thumper have a website.
Date: 27 Apr 1999 15:07:49 -0700

Bret I am refering to my latest Thumper catalog #8 edition and cannot find
an e-mail address order only no. is 800-259-5186 and tecnical info. is
903-938-3340 hop this helps [e-mail]

Bret Gergely wrote:

> Does Thumper have a website?  I haven't been able to find one.  Also do
> they have a catalog that I can order.
>
> Bret
> 95 DR350SE
> 96 DR350S




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Scott Stephens <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Is header pipe Stainless Steel?
Date: 27 Apr 1999 19:19:20 -0700

Hi all,

I've been lurking since the first week or so........I've got a 97 DR350V
dirt model, it was new last spring and I have done no mod's to it except
acerbis hand guards, brake light and foldable mirrors ( have it licensed
....not completly street legal though).  I'm in Vancouver BC.

I've heard rumors that the stock header pipe is stainless steel, painted
black. I checked with a magnet and mine is not  magnetic. Anyone know if
this is true? If it is stainless, I'm going to strip and polish it.


Scott Stephens




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Wider pegs.
Date: 28 Apr 1999 09:18:49 -0600

Anyone put wider pegs on their DR350?  What kind? I'm beginning to think I'd
like a little wider peg under my foot.

Gino




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Wider pegs.
Date: 28 Apr 1999 08:33:26 -0700

Gino,

I have the Thumper Burly pegs; deadly sharp, wider/taller than stock, &
unbendable - the mount will give way first. One guy @ work called them a bear
trap. And from experience I can say they dig very well into any type of dirt; a
very effective anchor when you go down. Only thing I do not like is once or
twice they cut into my jeans when loading up. Try IMS or Works as alternatives.

John




"Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]> on 04/28/99 08:18:49 AM

Please respond to "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Anyone put wider pegs on their DR350?  What kind? I'm beginning to think I'd
like a little wider peg under my foot.

Gino











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Wider pegs.
Date: 28 Apr 1999 09:38:41 -0600

>>I have the Thumper Burly pegs; deadly sharp, wider/taller than stock, &<<

I have the permanent imprint of a Burly peg in my right shin from my KLR
accident last year.  I know what you mean.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Is header pipe Stainless Steel?
Date: 28 Apr 1999 09:00:26 -0700


>
> I've heard rumors that the stock header pipe is stainless steel, painted
> black. I checked with a magnet and mine is not  magnetic. Anyone know if
> this is true? If it is stainless, I'm going to strip and polish it.

Hmm.  I don't _think_ this is the case, but I guess it's possible.

I just had mine off, and was amazed by the size of the weld bead joining the
flange to the pipe (on the engine end).  The inside diameter of the pipe was
probably reduced by close to 1/4", especially where the bead overlapped
itself.

I spent a few minutes with a Dremel cutting down the bead and smoothing the
inner walls of the pipe.  It was a bear to cut, so perhaps it _is_
stainless.  I ended up using a dozen or so of the cutoff disks to "notch"
around the weld, and then cleaned it up with the little sanding drums.

Does it make a difference?  I don't know for sure, but I thought I'd pass
this observation on to the list.

FWIW,
Bryan
'96 DR441
Sacramento



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 28 Apr 1999 13:35:30 -0400

I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag, saddlebags,
tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and some
stuff.

Thanks,
Keith




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 28 Apr 1999 11:47:54 -0600



>I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
>and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag, saddlebags,
>tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and some
>stuff.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith


Gino Pokluda and I use Tim Bernard's sideracks that give protection to both sidecovers and
mufflers. With the sideracks installed you can use any kind of soft luggage on the rear. We
both use Ortlieb Dry Bags from Aerostich. For rear racks, Suzuki makes and economy model or a
deluxe model. Tim makes one even bigger than the deluxe and DualStar makes a stainless rack.
For the tank, look at the competition size panniers from Aerostich.

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Is header pipe Stainless Steel?
Date: 28 Apr 1999 15:21:56 EDT

In a message dated 4/27/99 9:21:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I've heard rumors that the stock header pipe is stainless steel, painted
 black. I checked with a magnet and mine is not  magnetic. Anyone know if
 this is true? If it is stainless, I'm going to strip and polish it.


 Scott Stephens
  >>
  I dont know if it's true or not but if it is I am gonna strip the paint
right off! However I have my doubts.

Mike A
Nashville



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) rack question from KEITH
Date: 28 Apr 1999 12:32:41 PDT

I had same question recently, & searched the archives of this list.
Suzuki makes two racks for this bike, one "Economy" and one other
model (dont remember name).  The economy model is the larger of the
two (11"X11"), and I just ordered one from Competion Accessories for
$55 incl shipping.

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


>From: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
>Reply-To: Keith Browning <[e-mail]>
>To:
>Subject: (dr350) Mime-Version: 1.0
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:35:30 -0400
>
>I am getting a 95 DR350S. I will be riding it on the street a lot,
>and was wondering if anyone can recommend a rear rack, tailbag,
saddlebags,
>tankbags, etc.  Nothing too big, just something to hold a jacket and
some
>stuff.
>
>Thanks,
>Keith
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Chain guard for 97 DR350 SE
Date: 28 Apr 1999 20:37:47 +0000

Even though my DR350SE (97) is lovely, the lower chain guide has
snapped. The local Suzi shop says they only can get the plastic one -
aluminum only for models up to '94. Anyone know of aftermarket product
that might work here - I just want one that can take a bit of abuse.

Thanks,

Chris.

ps I'm going down to Trials Training Center in Tennessee the week after
next - anyone been?




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Chain guide
Date: 29 Apr 1999 00:43:19 -0400 (EDT)

Chris,
I use the Scott's guard, it works well and  lasts, I have not had to
replace the rubbing block yet, it also fits my RMX.
                               Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash
Date: 29 Apr 1999 05:22:57 PDT

I jacked the bike up last night & decided to take the forks out &
have the resprung/revalved by Thumper.  I loosened the clamps
everywhere, but they didnt come sliding out as I thought they would.
Is there something thats NOT obvious about taking the forks off a
bike (never done this before)?  Any hints/help appreciated.  Has
anyone on this list had the fork work done by Thumper?

The reason I started doing this last night is because I had to loosen
the tripple clamps to un-twist my forks.  I finally did my first "rag-
doll"!!!  Ok, not as cool as the crashes on Crusty Demons of Dirt,
but this was live & in 3-D!  I finally got the confidence to go up
this pretty steep hill since I got my new tires (IRC GP110's...$100
for both, good traction, good on road).  Once I made it up, had to go
back down.  OK the first 4-5 times, then I guess I got
careless/tired/?  Coming down at a pretty good speed, my front tire
stayed in a rut, while me the rest of the bike decided to go to one
side.  I'm amazed at how this fairly shallow rut so effectively
guided my tire straight as I was trying to turn out of it.  Well, we
hit pretty hard at 2/3 down hill, then slid a little.  I have a
little sore shoulder, wrist & knee...but not bad.  NO damage to
biek!! Yeah!  This is too cool....if I'd have had a little slide on
any of the sportbikes I've owned recently, I'd be out $1K minimum.

Take care-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE (hanging from garage ceiling)



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash
Date: 29 Apr 1999 07:46:53 -0700

Bryan,

First ensure all of the pinch bolts are loose enough to be spun outward by hand,
then grasp the upper fork tube between the upper & lower clamp and/or under the
fork boot (loosen it's upper clamp then scoot it down), an finally
simultaneously twist and pull downward. If it doesn't budge, then use a large
blade screwdriver and gently wedge the offending clamp apart - it will not take
much - and they should drop down.

Thumper sends them to Scott's here in SoCal for the work. They do good work, but
have you considered Norm Kouba (1-208-939-3753) or Bob Bell (619-593-7473)? Norm
does DRs only, Bob seems to have a good thing going, and (George @) Scott's
definitely works on all brands/types; seems it would be better to have someone
most focused on DRs do your work.

John




"Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]> on 04/29/99 05:22:57 AM

Please respond to "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




I jacked the bike up last night & decided to take the forks out &
have the resprung/revalved by Thumper.  I loosened the clamps
everywhere, but they didnt come sliding out as I thought they would.
Is there something thats NOT obvious about taking the forks off a
bike (never done this before)?  Any hints/help appreciated.  Has
anyone on this list had the fork work done by Thumper?

The reason I started doing this last night is because I had to loosen
the tripple clamps to un-twist my forks.  I finally did my first "rag-
doll"!!!  Ok, not as cool as the crashes on Crusty Demons of Dirt,
but this was live & in 3-D!  I finally got the confidence to go up
this pretty steep hill since I got my new tires (IRC GP110's...$100
for both, good traction, good on road).  Once I made it up, had to go
back down.  OK the first 4-5 times, then I guess I got
careless/tired/?  Coming down at a pretty good speed, my front tire
stayed in a rut, while me the rest of the bike decided to go to one
side.  I'm amazed at how this fairly shallow rut so effectively
guided my tire straight as I was trying to turn out of it.  Well, we
hit pretty hard at 2/3 down hill, then slid a little.  I have a
little sore shoulder, wrist & knee...but not bad.  NO damage to
biek!! Yeah!  This is too cool....if I'd have had a little slide on
any of the sportbikes I've owned recently, I'd be out $1K minimum.

Take care-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE (hanging from garage ceiling)



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) fork work; first cool crash
Date: 29 Apr 1999 09:24:15 -0600


>Thumper sends them to Scott's here in SoCal for the work. They do good work, but
>have you considered Norm Kouba (1-208-939-3753) or Bob Bell (619-593-7473)? Norm
>does DRs only, Bob seems to have a good thing going, and (George @) Scott's
>definitely works on all brands/types; seems it would be better to have someone
>most focused on DRs do your work.
>
>John


Bob Bell is giving discounts if you say that Eldon Carl sent you from Dual Sport News...great
prices...

Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Lessons learned from riding a DR-SE!!
Date: 29 Apr 1999 12:13:28 EDT

1. Ruts are your enemy.......slow down!
2. The smoother the terrain, the better
3. Short shift it baby!!
4. Hills are meant for avoiding.
5. Mud WILL slam you face first!
6. Prepare to become proficient at straightening tweaked front ends.
7. Thou shall rejet!
8. mirrors are good branch catchers!
9. Sand WILL slam you shoulder first.
10. Modify your stock DR so none of the above happens so easily!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) Rear racks..
Date: 29 Apr 1999 12:29:14 EDT

Bryan... Kurt...

Will the Economy rear rack fit the dirt-only DR?  I think the Dualstar will
but the cost is prohibitive...

Thanks to everyone out there for the DR tips... Especially the point made by
Jesse.. ALWAYS use the decomp lever drill before kickstarting...

Guy



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Sperduto, Nick" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Lessons learned from riding a DR-SE!!
Date: 29 Apr 1999 12:50:00 -0400


 ----------

1. Ruts are your enemy.......slow down!
1a. speed up and the rut will not jerk the bike around as much

2. The smoother the terrain, the better
2a  smooth is boring

3. Short shift it baby!!
3a Shift it longer, keep the revs and power up

4. Hills are meant for avoiding.
4a Hills are meant for climbing

5. Mud WILL slam you face first!
5a Mud are great obstacles to practice wheeling over

6. Prepare to become proficient at straightening tweaked front ends.
6a Good thing to learn

7. Thou shall rejet!
7a Yes you shall

8. mirrors are good branch catchers!
8a Get some Ken Shaun foldable mirrors and fold them in to the bars in the
rough stuff

9. Sand WILL slam you shoulder first.
9a Another obstacle that requires the lightening of the front wheel.

10. Modify your stock DR so none of the above happens so easily!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Date: 29 Apr 1999 16:04:09 -0400 (EDT)

John, I have 97 RMX, several my DR parts fit this in addition to the
chain guide.
                            Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) clutch safety interlock switch
Date: 29 Apr 1999 18:21:10 EDT

My 97 DR-SE won't start.....so I started tracing wire, troubleshooting. The
clutch interlock switch was found to be bad......if you want to defeat this,
remove the headlight shell, trace your wire from the switch to the bundle of
wire harnesses behind the headlight shell, disconnect the two from the clutch
switch(one has a male connector, the other a female) and reconnect the
harness wires together........they must have been thinking ahead to all us
offroad motonuts when they engineered that one (for a change!!!) I just did
this a few minutes ago, so it works!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "J. Carton" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 29 Apr 1999 18:30:05 -0400

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE926E.4D6E88A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a 94 DR350SE and am looking for new tires. I need DOT legal =
knobbies and want to know what to get. My owners manual says:
Rear:     110/90-18
Front:    80/100-21

Now, do I have to stick with the same size rear or can I go with =
something fatter without rubbing the battery? Ideally, Pirelli MT21would =
be best (right?) but what size. Thanks in advance.
Joe


------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE926E.4D6E88A0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 94 DR350SE and am looking =
for new=20
tires. I need DOT legal knobbies and want to know what to get. My owners =
manual=20
says:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Rear:    =20
110/90-18</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Front:    =
80/100-21</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Now, do I have to stick with the =
same size rear=20
or can I go with something fatter without rubbing the battery? Ideally, =
Pirelli=20
MT21would be best (right?) but what size. Thanks in =
advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Joe</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE926E.4D6E88A0--




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 29 Apr 1999 17:04:27 -0600

Hi Joe, please change your email format to plaint text only when posting to the list...it will
save the digest from getting messed up...

Thanks,

Kurt
-----Original Message-----


I have a 94 DR350SE and am looking for new tires. I need DOT legal knobbies and want to know
what to get. My owners manual says:
Rear:     110/90-18
Front:    80/100-21

Now, do I have to stick with the same size rear or can I go with something fatter without
rubbing the battery? Ideally, Pirelli MT21would be best (right?) but what size. Thanks in
advance.
Joe






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: PATRICK ANDERSON <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Great parts website.
Date: 29 Apr 1999 19:06:31 -0400

Hey,  if you are looking for a great place to find parts on the web,  go
to this place called www.hi-persports.com   Gee,...  I sound like an
advertisement for this place,  sorry,  I have no connection to the
place.  They actually have an easily searchable database.  Their prices
dont look too bad either.  I guess you could use it to find a part
number or something also.
Later -PJ


By the way, does anybody know of any "dual sports" this summer close to
virginia?



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 29 Apr 1999 19:17:31 EDT

Dunlop K139 front
Pirelli MT21 rear (120 size only!)

Mike



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) clutch safety interlock switch
Date: 29 Apr 1999 19:49:47 -0400 (EDT)

These switches should be disconnected, I have seen them fail in the
middle of nowhere,  toss them along with the stupid kickstand switch.
                          Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Doug Bragg <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 29 Apr 1999 18:53:01 -0700

I will be running these tires this year.  I have always used MT-21's (front
and rear), then decided to switch to the Dunlop K139 for the front.
 Everyone I know who uses the MT-21's uses the 120.

Doug

-----Original Message-----
Sent:    Thursday, April 29, 1999 4:18 PM

Dunlop K139 front
Pirelli MT21 rear (120 size only!)

Mike




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) How much for Boring?
Date: 29 Apr 1999 22:27:02 -0400



    If I bought the wiseco .4 over bore piston how much would it cost
for my sleeve to be over bored.  I am on a budget.  What else would I
need to buy to get it running right?  Thanks.

Bret Gergely
dr350se - 95
dr350s - 96




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Bore Job
Date: 29 Apr 1999 22:39:55 -0400 (EDT)

Bret,
   The cylinder boring should cost maybe $30- $ 40 depending where you
take it. You will need a new head and base gasket. The labor part is
where the $$$ comes in unless you do it yourself. If not you can save
some by taking the motor out of the frame, just take it to the shop.
                 Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 29 Apr 1999 23:39:22 EDT

In a message dated 4/29/99 4:32:09 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<<
 Now, do I have to stick with the same size rear or can I go with something
fatter without rubbing the battery? Ideally, Pirelli MT21would be best
(right?) but what size. Thanks in advance.
 Joe >>

Dunlop has a new DOT knobbie out.  I think it is the 606.

Gino



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bryan Nolastname" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) thanks for fork help; now how bout the shock?
Date: 30 Apr 1999 05:30:13 PDT


Thanks to all who gave advice on how to get the forks off; it was no sweat.
I've decided to send the forks to Bob Bell in CA. to have Race Tech
cartridge emulators & new springs installed.  I'll let everyone know how it
goes.  Also, thanks to Norm who imparted substantial wisdom over the phone
yesterday.

Since the bike is laid up now, and I'd like to avoid buying a manual as long
as possible, can anyone give me some instructions for getting the shock out?
  I have plenty of jacking-from-floor AND hoisting-from-ceiling
capabilities, so if there is an "easy" way to do this...lemme know!  I'm
gonna put on a heavier spring and Kouba links as per Norm, but I forgot to
ask him about changing the fluid while I have it out.  I assume this would
be a smart thing to do while I have it off.  What weight of fluid is called
for?  are there likely deteriorated seals?

Thanks guys-

Bryan in Dallas
95 DR350SE


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE
Date: 30 Apr 1999 07:12:27 -0700

Mike,

How does the Dunlop K139 do off road in all of the following categories: mud,
sand, rocks & hardpack? Is it for hard surface, intermediate, soft conditions? I
know that's asking too much of one tire, being DOT apprv'd, but please let us
know if you have pers. experience.

John




[e-mail] on 04/29/99 04:17:31 PM

Please respond to [e-mail]

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)




Dunlop K139 front
Pirelli MT21 rear (120 size only!)

Mike










-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) How much for Boring?
Date: 30 Apr 1999 07:30:31 -0700

Bret,

I've heard shops charge as high as $75.

I have a stock barrel/jug, piston & pin off of my '94; has >200 miles on it
since new, so it isn't even broken in. I'll swap you for an even $100, and you
pay shipping (to/from SoCal). That's the cost of a(n aftermarket) piston set
alone, and it would bring you back to fact. specs. If money is a concern, then
you could send me the $ when it becomes available.

Moreover, to prove I'm not in this for personal gain, I truly recommend you get
a 385 kit to get the full benefit of your trouble when removing the top end (it
is not that difficult, though.) Why not get a little boost out of your effort?
Since $ is a concern, and if you have reasonable mechanical aptitude and good
tools - including a torque wrench - then consider doing the work yourself; I did
my own.

Why do I have these extra parts? I wanted more boost out of my DR, but I wanted
the ability to go back in the event the 441 kit makes an animal out of it;
hence, the another barrel was purchased to the new sleeve. It didn't change the
character as much as anticipated, but did bring about a stronger personality.

John




Bret Gergely <[e-mail]> on 04/29/99 07:27:02 PM

Please respond to Bret Gergely <[e-mail]>

cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)






    If I bought the wiseco .4 over bore piston how much would it cost
for my sleeve to be over bored.  I am on a budget.  What else would I
need to buy to get it running right?  Thanks.

Bret Gergely
dr350se - 95
dr350s - 96











-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) thanks for fork help; now how bout the shock?
Date: 30 Apr 1999 08:48:07 -0600

+AD4-Thanks to all who gave advice on how to get the forks off+ADs- it was no sweat.
+AD4-I've decided to send the forks to Bob Bell in CA. to have Race Tech
+AD4-cartridge emulators +ACY- new springs installed.  I'll let everyone know how it
+AD4-goes.  Also, thanks to Norm who imparted substantial wisdom over the phone
+AD4-yesterday.


Did you talk to Bob about converting the forks to cartridge forks? He gave me a terrific
quote...also you might consider sending the shock to him as well, Eldon Carl raves about his
work.


Kurt




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Bore Job
Date: 30 Apr 1999 12:14:03 -0400 (EDT)

Bret, John is right about the 385, I misread your post, thought you
already had the piston. Go for the 385 if you need a new bore anyway. I
paid $40 for the 385 cc borejob, remember you need the piston to give
them when you have it bored, regardless what size you go with.
                         Jim A.




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) thanks for fork help; now how bout the shock?
Date: 30 Apr 1999 09:21:57 -0700

Bryan Nolastname wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who gave advice on how to get the forks off; it was no sweat.
> Since the bike is laid up now, and I'd like to avoid buying a manual as long
> as possible, can anyone give me some instructions for getting the shock out?

Getting the shock out isn't a big deal.  You just need to disassemble the
rear half of your bike :)  From memory, it's something like....

1) Remove the side panels, seat, and rear wheel
2) Unbolt the shock reservoir mount from the frame
3) Remove the boot between the carb and the airbox
4) Remove the airbox
5) Remove the bolt at the joint between the old links and the swingarm
6) Use a strap to hold the swingarm up, out of the way.
7) Unbolt the shock bolts top and bottom.  Take care to note where all the
pieces of the linkage go.
8) Work the shock out.

I'd highly recommend the $60-70 for a factory manual.  You'll need to torque
settings at a minimum, plus it has some nice diagrams showing how everything
goes.

> I'm
> gonna put on a heavier spring and Kouba links as per Norm, but I forgot to
> ask him about changing the fluid while I have it out.  I assume this would
> be a smart thing to do while I have it off.  What weight of fluid is called
> for?  are there likely deteriorated seals?

A good start would be to check out MX Tuner's article on shock work:

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/mar99/db101/db101shock.html

For the DRs, 10W oil is suggested.  I would think that for your '95, the
seals are still okay, but you do need to take care to not damage them during
removal and installation.

The valve for the bladder is located on the back of the reservoir, beneath a
metal shield.  You can pry that shield out easily with a screwdriver and
chuck it -- I don't know what value that adds, except for perhaps keeping
people from fiddling with the valve.  Probably as safety thing (stock
nitrogen pressure is something like 147 psi.)

Getting the shock filled with only fluid and _no_ air during reassembly is
the tricky part.  Beyond that, it's pretty straightforward.

I just finished installing a Gold Valve in my shock, so if you have any more
questions about the details of shock maintenance, please feel free to ask.
(I'm no expert, but at least it's fresh in my mind...)

From what I understand, net.wisdom suggests that suspension fluid should be
changed annually.  And after seeing the disgusting liquid that I poured out
of my 3 year-old shock, I must agree.

Bryan
[e-mail]
916-785-7171
Sacramento, CA



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box
Date: 30 Apr 1999 12:36:44 -0700

To all interested parties I am setting up to manufacture what I will
call the magic air box II complete with internal 2stage filter and
mounting hardware It will sell for $109.99 thats $ 10.00 more than I
paid for mine in 1993.
I have already made up a proto type so production models for dirt DRs
will be ready in the near future. Any of you who are interested please
respond on the list and I will file your response and answer any
Questions you may have.                Jesse Kientz




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box
Date: 30 Apr 1999 12:43:53 -0700



jessekientz wrote:

> To all interested parties I am setting up to manufacture what I will
> call the magic air box II complete with internal 2stage filter and
> mounting hardware It will sell for $209.99 thats $ 10.00 more than I
> paid for mine in 1993.
> I have already made up a proto type so production models for dirt DRs
> will be ready in the near future. Any of you who are interested please
> respond on the list and I will file your response and answer any
> Questions you may have.                Jesse Kientz

PS> correction The price is $209.99 Sorry




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jessekientz <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box
Date: 30 Apr 1999 15:17:55 -0700

John I am addressing the issues that you mention now that I have my prototype to
play with I have had the same problem with mine in regards to the side covers. I
have ridden mostly in california and not where its real wet so have not experienced
any problems in that area, but appreciate your input and will incorporate these
issues
into my production pieces. Thanks for the response Jesse

[e-mail] wrote:

> Jess,
>
> Congradulations on the business; it should be successful, as the demand is still
> there. Did Bernard/Dave Bertram of CG approach you, or did Thumper pick it up? I
> hear John King left some time back.
>
> Question: I have the earlier model of the air box - will there be any
> differences with the new one? The older one was a tad too wide and pushed the
> side panels out 1/4" beyond where they should be. I had mine modified to
> minimize this effect, but remains somewhat imperfect. And the top needs to be
> narrowed with a top to prevent splashing of H2O and debris. I had the lid
> narrowed with some flat plate aluminum, then stuffed neoprene between the frame
> rails and lid on the two sides and back.
>
> If you want to use mine for study, I can ship it to you but will need something
> in its place so I can continue to ride.
>
> John
>
> jessekientz <[e-mail]> on 04/30/99 12:43:53 PM
>
> Please respond to jessekientz <[e-mail]>
>
> To:   [e-mail]
> cc:    (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell)
> Subject:  Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box
>
> jessekientz wrote:
>
> > To all interested parties I am setting up to manufacture what I will
> > call the magic air box II complete with internal 2stage filter and
> > mounting hardware It will sell for $209.99 thats $ 10.00 more than I
> > paid for mine in 1993.
> > I have already made up a proto type so production models for dirt DRs
> > will be ready in the near future. Any of you who are interested please
> > respond on the list and I will file your response and answer any
> > Questions you may have.                Jesse Kientz
>
> PS> correction The price is $209.99 Sorry




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Seat Cover/Foam Recommendations/Survey
Date: 30 Apr 1999 15:45:58 -0700

Gents,

I plan on replacing my seat cover & foam now that it's torn in a few spots and
breaking down.

What's popular with you guys, the tacky, embossed or the plain, smooth variety?
It's pretty much dry riding here in SoCal, so I can go either way. The tacky,
embossed stuff looks custom but is it hard to move around on?

Who makes the best replacement foam? Guts, MSM? At one time I had Ceet's tall DR
foam, but got sore cheeks on sit-down rides; the height was better than stock
but the repeated soreness forced me to trade it away.

John





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr350) DR 350 kick start
Date: 30 Apr 1999 22:17:26 EDT

I have a 96 electric start DR 350.
Has anyone tried to add or remove the electric start to add a Kick start
instead?
I was wondering incase the battery dies while out on a trail. you could
always kick start it back up.
or would the kick start free up some the DR's weight problem?

Mark



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Craig Seal & Janice Brinkerhoff <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr350) Ideas for lightening the controls on a '97 DR350?
Date: 30 Apr 1999 21:02:38 -0700

I recently purchased a '97 DR 350, and would like to lighten the
throttle effort and bring the clutch engagement point in closer to the
bar.  I'm aware that somebody (White Bros??) supplies a longer clutch
actuator arm that improves leverage for the clutch, but don't know what
I can do about the throttle.  I've lubed the cables, checked the
routing, etc., everything works ok up to the carberator linkage.  Are
(lighter) replacement throttle springs available, or perhaps a larger
linkage cam would fix this?






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From: [e-mail] (James Adler)
Subject: (dr350) Throttle & clutch
Date: 01 May 1999 00:40:22 -0400 (EDT)

Craig,
 You could try an aftermarket throttle, it would help some, I use the
Turbo throttle & it works well, don't have the stock carb though.
Check your clutch cable where it is touching the frame, it gets brutally
hot, mine partially fused one time, thought my clutch was shot but only
needed a new cable.
                                    Jim A.