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From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Seat Cover/Foam Recommendations/Survey Date: 01 May 1999 07:16:05 PDT Hey John- A few weeks ago, I ordered Travelcade's "Dual Sport Seat Kit". It costs $174 total (incl delivery to Dallas). Their phone # is 562-630-4522. I read a Cycle World evaluation about this product, which they had installed on an XR400. The CW staffers really liked it. They said it was alot more comfortable and "...broader, rounder, and more deeply dished than stock." It has a gel insert in the seat foam, and is covered in the saddle area w/ a diver's suit-like layer of neoprene for additional comfort. You can get the seat w/o the neoprene for $20 less, but I think it looks cool. I will post a report on how I like it after I get it. They ship you the whole one-piece seat ready to be installed over your stock seat pan....which I will probably have a local upholstry shop do. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >Gents, > >I plan on replacing my seat cover & foam now that it's torn in a few spots >and >breaking down. > >What's popular with you guys, the tacky, embossed or the plain, smooth >variety? >It's pretty much dry riding here in SoCal, so I can go either way. The >tacky, >embossed stuff looks custom but is it hard to move around on? > >Who makes the best replacement foam? Guts, MSM? At one time I had Ceet's >tall DR >foam, but got sore cheeks on sit-down rides; the height was better than >stock >but the repeated soreness forced me to trade it away. > >John > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) Product report: Clarke tank; FMF MegaMaxII exhaust; adj. pilot screw Date: 01 May 1999 14:53:49 PDT This may be a little preliminary, as I just installed my new Clark gas tank and FMF MegaMaxII exhaust. I guess this is mostly about installation, since I haven't "lived" with them on the road yet. Clark tank BIG! I'm not sure if they make different sizes for the DR350, but the one I got (from Baja Designs for $139) was the 4+gallon one. It lined up perfect w/ the stock rubber "nubs?" that protrude from the frame, and the rubber grommet mounted plate off the old stock tank fit fine on the Clark and lined up well w/ the mounting holes on the frame. I switched the stock petcock over to the Clark (instructions mentioned a spacer that wasn't present on my 95 S) w/ no problems, but I found it to seep a bit when I got it mounted & filled. A few more torques on the bolts and A-OK. In a footnote, the instruction recommend that my model DR grind off a hair of upper cylinder fin that the vacuum part of the petcock touches. I didnt think this was going to matter to me upon first fit, but after I got everything tightened down, yeah, it just barely makes contact. So I guess I'll take it back off tomorrow & grind off the recommended 1/8" in from an upper cylinder fin. FMF MegaMaxII Getting it out of the box.....not too impressed ($212 from Baja Designs, 619-578-9111). There was a small ding in the pipe leading to the actual can right under a mounting location. There was no evidence of trauma to the box it came in....but I'll give them the benefit of the doubt that it happened in transit. HOWEVER... I was kinda pissed that I could see rust at the welds on several areas of the unit. The finish (on pipe leading to can) might be nickel...not sure....but its definitely some kind of plating, and I expected better. There were no instructions on where to mount the hanging bracket that circles the can.....I ended up securing it to the rear-most hole of the (?sub-frame fender thing?), which turned out to be a pretty good fit. Of the three mounting points (excluding the clamp between stock header & this exhaust), you really had to work to get everything to line up. You had to get 2 tight, then loosen em back up to get the third, etc... I think this put everything in a constant bind....maybe that was their intention....but if so, they should have warned so in the instructions. As far as performance, I cranked it w/ it fully open, and it was pretty loud at idle. Then I put the entire 9 disks on w/ endcap, & started to fiddle w/ my pilot idle screw. Pilot Jet adjustment valve/screw (applies to CV carb models only) I got this from Thumper Racing, but I think Scott's makes it. You drill the plug out of your carb, remove the existing needle/screw, & install the new one w/ a little T handle. You have to cut off 1/8" of the housing for the pilot needle valve, but this was a no brainer w/ a Dremel tool. As I was messing around w/ my new exhaust, I could easily see performance differences from as little as a 1/4 turn of that pilot needle. This is definitely worth $20, as otherwise you'd probably have to take carb off to make these little adjustments. I especially wanted it cause I plan on going to ride high-elevation jeep trails in Colorado this summer, and supposedly you can compensate for the altitude on the fly w/ this setup. If I find any of these products especially good/bad after I've ridden with em for a while, I'll let y'all know. Bryan in Dallas 95DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Date: 01 May 1999 20:31:13 -0500 I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel. What a difference a new tire makes! I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well. I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and chain cleaning I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess I wasn't. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com> Subject: (dr350) Wires / Clutch switch Date: 02 May 1999 01:43:46 +0100 Hi guys, I need your help ! First, my DR is a '93 DR350S model. I read on someone's message about engines dying suddenly due to the clutch switch being malfunctioning or something like that... The same thing happened to me when I was riding pretty hard on the beach (dunes). I crashed violently over the bars when that happened... and damaged the clocks ! First, what's the clutch switch ? Is that the "Engine Stop Switch" ? Because my bike doesn't have any wires coming from the clutch... I want to disable the "clutch switch" and also the side stand switch. I also want to remove the clocks. My problem is, the ignition key is attached to the clocks so I will have to "highwire" the bike (never mind my English)... I removed the clocks (and also the ignition switch), the front panel & the front light. There are a lot of wires behind the the front light. There are a group of wires from the clocks (disconnected the plug), another group of wires from the ignition switch (disconnected the plug), a group of wires from the left handlebar switches and another one from the right handlebar switch. I realised that all the wires that came from the handlebar switches are all together in a plug except 2 wires (one black & one yellow). The black wire from the the left handlebar switch (clutch side) was connected to the black wire from the right handlebar switch (front brake), the same with the yellow wire. I managed to "highwire" by connecting the yellow wire to the black wire (one was male & the other female) of the right handlebar switch. Did nothing to the yellow and black wire of the left handlebar switch. The engine starts, no problem at all and the "Engine Stop Switch" was disabled. My question is ? Has anyone remove the clocks from your bike and how did you manage to start the bike without the ignition switch ? Is this the right way to highwire the bike ? How do I disable the side stand switch ? What should I do to the yellow and black wires that come from the left handlebar switch ? My intention is to remove the clocks, the ignition switch and the side stand switch. Please help me and never mind my English. Thanks in advance ! ThunderSUB (Claudio) Lisbon, Portugal http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html http://www.bigfoot.com/~thundersub http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789 thundersub@bigfoot.com ICQ# [3072424] * 1982 Honda Dax 70 * 1993 Suzuki DR350S * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: (dr350) RE: Date: 02 May 1999 08:05:29 -0700 A note on the rear hub... On SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion drive" pieces that fit between the wheel hub and sprocket hub, they wear out over time. I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I ride about 2500 miles per year.) Bearings are available from a bearing supply house, and are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts. Doug http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html -----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 6:31 PM I just got back from a ride with my new Pirelli MT 21 rear wheel. What a difference a new tire makes! I don't know why I didn't get one sooner. My JX needle and spring are in place and seem to be working well. I am impressed by the improvement from a good rear hub, bearing, and chain cleaning I thought I was taking good care of the wheel but I guess I wasn't. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico Date: 02 May 1999 10:40:11 PDT Hey guys, I just posted this to the DUST list...thought I'd share it here to: ==================================================================== Hi Marcus- I work for US Customs & have been to many interior cities in Mexico doing NAFTA audits; I keep up on travel conditions as a matter of course. Bandits have always existed in Mexico, but they are a much more common danger these days (ever since the peso devaluation in 1995). I would suggest that when you travel the smaller, less frequently-traveled paved hiways, you are at greatest risk. Geographically, there is more hiway robbery in the west than in the east. Within 60 miles or so of Mexico City is also risky. On the 4 lane tollways and on the most remote, least traveled dirt roads, you are safest from the threat of bandits. Their most common MO is to drag a log/tree across a road, hiding to wait for the car travelers to bail out & move the obstacle. They dont usually have guns, and USUALLY dont physically harm their vicitms, but I do know that some American tourists have been beaten/abused, and a few have been killed. My brother was robbed a few years ago as he drove up the coast from Acapulco (tree in the road trick). They took his wallet, & went through the car & his wife's purse. Statistically, you're still probably safer traveling in Mexico than walking a big US city at night.... just wanted to post a little reminder about the risk. If they take your bike & your cash....you are going to have a long, uncomfortable detour. And even though I usually pack a gun on my longer road trips, DONT EVER think about taking one south of the border....instant jail for a long time. Every year there are dozens of Americans that drive across to the border towns that forget about that rusty old pistol in the glove box, .22 rifle in the tool box in the bed of the truck, whatever. If they get the "red light" (the red light comes on 10% of the time) for an intensive inspection by the Aduana (Mexican Customs), the firearm is found, the car siezed, & the driver arrested. And no, you cant bribe your way out of it.....the "feds" at the border crossings cannot be bribed (at least not by some gun-toting gringo). I think they are usually in a lousy jail for a minumum of 6 months or so before the US embassy people finally get them out. If anyone ever needs any US or Mexican Customs info, I can probably answer your questions. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >Subject: Guaymas to Santa Rosalia Ferry Service >Hi Everyone, > >I'm planning on ridding my KLR into Mexico in June. I see on my map that >there is a ferry from Guaymas to Santa Rosalia, and was curious if anyone >can confirm this for me. Also, if folks know of the prices, hours, or any >other details, please pass them along to me. Furthermore, I'm open to any >suggestions of places to eat and places to stay (camping or hotel). > >Thanks in advance, > > ~marcus young~ >Denver, CO _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) caution when traveling in mexico Date: 02 May 1999 13:45:25 -0600 Re: Guns in Mexico - that is absolutely true about going to jail if caught with one. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) RE: Date: 02 May 1999 13:46:27 -0600 >A note on the rear hub... > >On -S and -SE models, periodically replace the little rubber "cushion drive" . . . I also replace all wheel bearings every two years or so (I ride about 2500 miles per year.) Bearings are available from a bearing supply house, and are usually better and cheaper than OEM parts. >Doug I agree with Doug - keep an eye on those rear axel bearings. I have had them wear out, as have others I know. They are good for about 10k dirt miles, at best - check them with each tire change. As noted, bearings from the supply house are cheaper and more readily available. Also, replace with ones that are sealed on both sides (rather than just one side), so they will stay cleaner. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box Date: 02 May 1999 13:50:48 -0600 I have a Magic Air Box I. It has such wonderful air flow, it makes "opening the stock air box" seem trivial by comparison. Just make sure you keep the filter clean, and watch out for water getting it. You let in lots of stuff besides air into that huge opening. After washing my bike yesterday, it wouldn't run because of water in the float bowl. Ran like it was running out of gas, and turning on reserve made it worse (water, heavier than gas, was at the bottom of my tank). Draining the float bowl, then a can of Heat fixed it. Not the first time that has happened to me. Glad to see continued interest in DR's aftermarket performance upgrades. Went riding again today, and, again was every bit as fast as my friend n his XR650L. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires for DR350SE Date: 02 May 1999 18:35:53 EDT In a message dated 4/30/99 7:14:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, john.gill@conexant.com writes: << Mike, How does the Dunlop K139 do off road in all of the following categories: mud, sand, rocks & hardpack? Is it for hard surface, intermediate, soft conditions? I know that's asking too much of one tire, being DOT apprv'd, but please let us know if you have pers. experience. John >> John, I have been using the Dunlop K139 for about 2-3 years now. It has worked very well for me on a variety of terrain. From Kentucky mud to Utah sandstone, from Michigan's U.P. sand(fine) to So Cal/Arizona/Nevada sand(fine all the way to kitty litter), Washington loam to West Virginia River rock. It also performs amazingly well on pavement (dry). It has been pushed to 100 mph, then leaned on hard in corner after corner! I have ripped my share of side knobs off but this is to be expected after the abuse I subject it to. BTW..........D.O.T. approval has very little to do with how serious or good the tire is. Hope that helps a little, Mike P.S. I have to give my friend Mark Hyde (American Suzuki) credit for getting me to try the tire in the first place. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Subject: (dr350) Sand riding Date: 02 May 1999 21:53:45 -0500 My friend showed me how to ride in deep sand and mud. I know it's nothing new for the experienced group here but I will repeat it anyway. Get your weight off the front tire by sliding your ass way back. You can either stand while doing this or if you're lazy like me, sit way back on the rear fender. At the same time, pull back on the handle bars repeatedly to pull the front tire up out of the muck or sand. I was hauling through some deep puddles and doing this through them kept the front tire from getting bogged down. The front tire seemed to hydroplane over the surface of the puddle. When I tried it the normal way I almost went forward over the handlebars. Chuck Vokac Panama City FL '92 DR350S ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) Suspension question Date: 02 May 1999 22:37:36 -0700 Hi, First i like to say, that this DR list is one of the best thing , that a DR owner can get. Lots of great questions and answers. Thanks for starting this whole thing , i believe it was you Kurt, right? As far as i know they went to cartridge fork on 97 on the front.( Showa- brand ? )Honda has the same one is in it ? The question : I did read about suspension weakness on DRs , i have a 99 model , did Suzuki fixed the suspension problem , is it any better than the previous year model? Or does my 99 susp. have the same sickness as the others ( too soft) I could not tell if it is soft or not, because i always had " Rice-rockets" , Zx-6 , Zx-11, in the past, and could not compare to Mx or other DP bikes. Also if some one could tell me the best setting for compression and rebound adjustment on front and rear. I tried to adjust but could not tell much different, ( inexperience???). What is the most dangerous setting that one possibly can have , Low compression and high rebound? or the other way around? Thanks for any advice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 03 May 1999 00:34:32 -0400 OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money on beer. What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to them as a "band aid." Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what is on the bike. Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? Thanks for tips PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 02 May 1999 22:02:38 -0700 > OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; > 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ > 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ > 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ > 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I think this looks correct. There's no question that option 4 is the ultimate fix to the DR's suspension. It's just a matter of how much you want to spend, and what you want to do with your bike. I installed CFEs in my '97 DRSE, and if I had another DRS with damping rod forks (I think they went the cartridge on the street models in '99 for the first time) that wasn't for motocross, I'd do the same thing again. The performance benefits are substantial, and definitely worth it. Pluses: + Allows the compression of the fork to be "linear" versus the hydraulic "lock" that happens on the damping rod forks under high-speed compressions. + Allows tuning of the compression and rebound Minuses: - Tuning of the compression and rebound aren't doable "on the fly" (compression adjustments can be done with the forks still on the bike, but require removal of the springs and CFEs; rebound adjustment is done with oil viscosity changes.) To do the work of installing the CFEs is not a big deal, though I really would recommend having access to an impact wrench (the rods will easily spin inside the fork as you're trying to remove or install the damping rod bolt.) Race Tech includes excellent instructions with the CFEs. You'll also need to replace the springs, as the stock ones are then too long (and if you weigh more than 170 pounds, generally too weak anyway) once the CFEs are installed. To determine your spring rate, see http://www.race-tech.com. Click on <Product Catalog> <Dirt Springs> <Spring Chart - Dirt>. **** Shameless personal ad to follow BTW, the new springs run $89.99 from Race-Tech. I have a set, part number FRSP 3750K, in the original box, that I'll sell for $55, including shipping in the US. (Hopefully a quick personal ad on this list is okay...) **** I hope this helps. If you have any questions (which I doubt you will after viewing the instructions), I'd be happy to help if I can. Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento (BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time. It was: - PLUSH on everything - Softer on the little stuff - Stiffer on the jumps In other words, it is definitely worth it!) (I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple times...) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scot350@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Start switch on DR-se models Date: 03 May 1999 01:11:11 EDT My start switch on my '97 se model died......I had asked for assistance with relocating the start switch. I traced wire and found that if you have to, the bundle coming from the right side switch assembly......splice into the orange wire and the yellow with a green stripe wire with a non-holding pushbutton switch (kill switch) mounted conveniently is good. Right now, I have a hold and release switch that holds the starter "in" so you can clear a flooded engine providing you have stouter wiring than stock!! Have fun, dudes.....my brother and I made about 30 laps each around my H/S trail today, alternating between my DR and my '96 RM250.....DR was a blast, despite having a slick rear tire (435cc bigbore kits eat em up)...actually looked forward to riding the DR!!! See ya, nutties! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 03 May 1999 08:49:39 -0700 PJ, You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350 except my wallet was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic damper rod fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not bitter @ them for that). Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where you want to go with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I vote for #2 (RT Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the Kouba link and get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the stuff if your situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills exceed what these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts because you can recover some of your $. Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B. 4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges (compression adjustment only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98 up (comp. & reb. adjmt's). If you go the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too; it has more shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have Scott's (see: I'm not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter. 4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable seller in Cycle News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If you go this route then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock out back. Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than any of the other option you listed (as they are stocked parts/services that take only $ to acquire.) Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where it mounts the real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the prospect of having something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having headshake problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the *only* concern, and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east (woods) they prefer the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff. The Scott's is made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called GP used to make one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if they are still in business. John PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money on beer. What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to them as a "band aid." Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what is on the bike. Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? Thanks for tips PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) DR 350 kick start Date: 03 May 1999 11:52:00 -0400 Did you get an answer about this ? I asked arounf when I was going to buy a 99 and no one really knew. I was going to try and figure it out myself, but I never bought the bike. I know the hole is stil in the cover and it looks like the electric start works off of the other side of the bike. I was going to go into my shop and they were going to let me look at the microfiche. I figured if the clutch basket was the same on the non electric models. Then all that should have to be done was to add the kickstarter mechanism. Good luck and let everyone know what you find out. ---------- I have a 96 electric start DR 350. Has anyone tried to add or remove the electric start to add a Kick start instead? I was wondering incase the battery dies while out on a trail. you could always kick start it back up. or would the kick start free up some the DR's weight problem? Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Luttman" <bluttman@hpnc.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 03 May 1999 11:02:34 -0500 What is involved with installing RM/RMX forks and shocks? Do these items "bolt-on" or are some modifications required? Brian Luttman 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100) Arlington, Texas bluttman@hpnc.com <mailto:bluttman@hpnc.com> > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com > [mailto:owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of > john.gill@conexant.com > Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:50 AM > To: PATRICK ANDERSON > Cc: List > Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. > > > PJ, > > You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350 > except my wallet > was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic > damper rod > fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not > bitter @ them for > that). > > Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where > you want to go > with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I > vote for #2 (RT > Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the > Kouba link and > get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the > stuff if your > situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills > exceed what > these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts > because you can > recover some of your $. > > Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B. > > 4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges > (compression adjustment > only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98 up (comp. & reb. > adjmt's). If you go > the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too; > it has more > shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have > Scott's (see: I'm > not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former > trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter. > > 4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable > seller in Cycle > News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If > you go this route > then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock > out back. > > Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than > any of the other > option you listed (as they are stocked parts/services that take only $ to > acquire.) > > Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where > it mounts the > real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the > prospect of having > something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having > headshake > problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the > *only* concern, > and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east > (woods) they prefer > the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff. > The Scott's is > made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called > GP used to make > one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if > they are still in > business. > > John > > > > > PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM > > Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> > > To: List <dr350@lists.xmission.com> > cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) > Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. > > > > > OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; > 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ > 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ > 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ > 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ > I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the > cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. > However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while > and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it > all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money > on beer. > What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they > really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to > them as a "band aid." > Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly > aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to > commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what > is on the bike. > Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the > Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? > Thanks for tips > PJ > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 03 May 1999 09:31:28 -0700 Bryan according to my shop manual " factory" in the 94 supplement section you already have cartrige forks, I highly recommend getting a shop manual if you are intending to do any upgrading at all hope this helps Jesse Bryan Cowger wrote: > > OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering > > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me > > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; > > 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ > > 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ > > 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ > > 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ > > I think this looks correct. There's no question that option 4 is the > ultimate fix to the DR's suspension. It's just a matter of how much you > want to spend, and what you want to do with your bike. > > I installed CFEs in my '97 DRSE, and if I had another DRS with damping rod > forks (I think they went the cartridge on the street models in '99 for the > first time) that wasn't for motocross, I'd do the same thing again. The > performance benefits are substantial, and definitely worth it. > > Pluses: > + Allows the compression of the fork to be "linear" versus the hydraulic > "lock" that happens on the damping rod forks under high-speed compressions. > + Allows tuning of the compression and rebound > > Minuses: > - Tuning of the compression and rebound aren't doable "on the fly" > (compression adjustments can be done with the forks still on the bike, but > require removal of the springs and CFEs; rebound adjustment is done with oil > viscosity changes.) > > To do the work of installing the CFEs is not a big deal, though I really > would recommend having access to an impact wrench (the rods will easily spin > inside the fork as you're trying to remove or install the damping rod bolt.) > > Race Tech includes excellent instructions with the CFEs. You'll also need > to replace the springs, as the stock ones are then too long (and if you > weigh more than 170 pounds, generally too weak anyway) once the CFEs are > installed. > > To determine your spring rate, see http://www.race-tech.com. Click on > <Product Catalog> <Dirt Springs> <Spring Chart - Dirt>. > > **** Shameless personal ad to follow > BTW, the new springs run $89.99 from Race-Tech. I have a set, part number > FRSP 3750K, in the original box, that I'll sell for $55, including shipping > in the US. (Hopefully a quick personal ad on this list is okay...) > **** > > I hope this helps. If you have any questions (which I doubt you will after > viewing the instructions), I'd be happy to help if I can. > > Bryan > '96 DR441 > Sacramento > > (BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time. > It was: > - PLUSH on everything > - Softer on the little stuff > - Stiffer on the jumps > In other words, it is definitely worth it!) > > (I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple > times...) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) resurrection of the magic air box Date: 03 May 1999 09:37:12 -0700 Hi Tom Where in Montana ? Thanks for the response on the air box issue. I used to run a Suzuki Dealership in Hamilton beautiful place to live. Jesse Tom Warr wrote: > I have a Magic Air Box I. It has such wonderful air flow, it makes "opening > the stock air box" seem trivial by comparison. Just make sure you keep the > filter clean, and watch out for water getting it. You let in lots of stuff > besides air into that huge opening. > > After washing my bike yesterday, it wouldn't run because of water in the > float bowl. Ran like it was running out of gas, and turning on reserve made > it worse (water, heavier than gas, was at the bottom of my tank). Draining > the float bowl, then a can of Heat fixed it. Not the first time that has > happened to me. > > Glad to see continued interest in DR's aftermarket performance upgrades. > Went riding again today, and, again was every bit as fast as my friend n his > XR650L. > > TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. Date: 03 May 1999 09:44:42 -0700 Brian, The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that, it's a simple bolt-up affair. I know of and have talked to two others who have done it besides myself: Dick Burleson and Rob Barnum. I can give you their #s if interested; Rob still has his DR, but Dick has moved on to other mounts and his memory of the DR was difficult to recall for him. In addition, I have copies of the two rag articles which show the work they did. John What is involved with installing RM/RMX forks and shocks? Do these items "bolt-on" or are some modifications required? Brian Luttman 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100) Arlington, Texas bluttman@hpnc.com <mailto:bluttman@hpnc.com> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. Date: 03 May 1999 11:29:31 -0600 >The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to >accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and >the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that, >it's a simple bolt-up affair. John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than others? I saw an RM 250 for sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap. What about the shock? Any mods necessary for that? Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. Date: 03 May 1999 11:30:23 -0600 -----Original Message----- Cc: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com>; List <dr350@lists.xmission.com> >Bryan according to my shop manual " factory" in the 94 supplement section you >already have cartrige forks, I highly recommend getting a shop manual if you are >intending to do any upgrading at all hope this helps Jesse the SE model didn't get cartridge forks until '98... Kurt '97 SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Luttman" <bluttman@hpnc.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. Date: 03 May 1999 12:44:58 -0500 Here's an off the wall question. Anybody ever taken an RMX and replaced engine with DR350? Now that would be cool. RMX suspension and weight with DR350 user friendly power. :-) Brian Luttman 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100) Arlington, Texas bluttman@hpnc.com <mailto:bluttman@hpnc.com> > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com > [mailto:owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Kurt Simpson > Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:30 PM > To: john.gill@conexant.com; Brian Luttman > Cc: DR350 List > Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. > > > >The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down > 0.010" to > >accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the > two models), and > >the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. > Other than that, > >it's a simple bolt-up affair. > > > John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than > others? I saw an RM 250 for > sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap. What > about the shock? Any mods > necessary for that? > > Kurt > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. Date: 03 May 1999 11:36:40 -0700 Kurt, I have '91s; they have 45mm sliders and are Showas. '89 & '90 came with 43mm KYBs; '91 & up are Showas. I was told the '91 Showas were the best of the earlier years; can't say anything for those after '95 as they went to conventials, but I read they are good, but not as rigid as the USD type. We can assume the RMs came with different settings, but they may work fine with the DRs added weight. I haven't done a thing to mine other than new seals and fresh oil, and the stock settings on all of the clickers, front & back, provide excellent results. As a bonus, the USD structure adds a tremendous amount of rigidity. A 4.9 or 4.8 kg spring is on the back, and I will need to go one step lower, being a 150 lb. pilot. The exhaust header will need to be rerouted under the *new * RM/RMX shock reservoir. A muffler shop welder did mine for ~$75. John >The upper end of the RMX steering stem needs to be machined down 0.010" to >accept the top DR bearing (the bottom one is identical on the two models), and >the exhaust header rerouted down then back up to the muffler. Other than that, >it's a simple bolt-up affair. John, what years and models should we look for? Any better than others? I saw an RM 250 for sale local at $1,000 and wondered about doing the swap. What about the shock? Any mods necessary for that? Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) RMX Suspension Conversion. Date: 03 May 1999 11:40:09 -0700 Won't work; the RMX tank hangs too low/DR engine too tall & wide. You wouldn't save that much in weight, but it would be nice to have a slimmer setup. John Here's an off the wall question. Anybody ever taken an RMX and replaced engine with DR350? Now that would be cool. RMX suspension and weight with DR350 user friendly power. :-) Brian Luttman 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100) Arlington, Texas bluttman@hpnc.com <mailto:bluttman@hpnc.com> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: loren bohl <lbohl@central.ecasd.k12.wi.us> Subject: (dr350) wis&min Date: 03 May 1999 13:52:06 -0700 Are there any people in the dr list that is in AMA districts 16 or 23, that is Wisconsin and Minnesota. L Bohl ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) gas Date: 03 May 1999 18:08:03 -0400 (EDT) how far can i expect to go on a full tank of gas averaging 65mph.I have about a 100 mile trip I know I will need to kick in the reserve but will i make it?Also this magic air box will this help or hinder a totally stock bike?Should I go for carb jetting and exhuast first? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dan Wolfrom <wolfrom@pcs.mb.ca> Subject: (dr350) (ndr350) Moab Accommodations Date: 03 May 1999 17:48:19 -0500 ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE958D.2F6C32E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm planning to spend the week in the Moab area with a group of friends the 3rd week in May. We want to do a group camp, and am wondering if the Canyonland campark is the best place to stay, and if reservations are recommended. We hope to mountain bike and hike near Moab, Slickrock,etc. Any recommendations? Thanks, Dan Wolfrom '98 DR350SE '96 KLX650 ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE958D.2F6C32E0 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IisWAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYASAEAAAEAAAAMAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAAbQAAAAAAAAC1O8LALHcQGqG8CAArKlbCFQAAAM/9Un0ZQ9IRsaQAAOhh q/WkhQAAAAAAAIErH6S+oxAZnW4A3QEPVAIAAAAARFIzNTAgTGlzdABTTVRQAGRyMzUwQGxpc3Rz LnhtaXNzaW9uLmNvbQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAGQAAAGRyMzUwQGxp c3RzLnhtaXNzaW9uLmNvbQAAAAADABUMAQAAAAMA/g8GAAAAHgABMAEAAAANAAAAJ0RSMzUwIExp c3QnAAAAAAIBCzABAAAAHgAAAFNNVFA6RFIzNTBATElTVFMuWE1JU1NJT04uQ09NAAAAAwAAOQAA AAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAALcPQEEgAEAHgAAAChuZHIzNTApIE1vYWIgQWNjb21t b2RhdGlvbnMgAL0JAQWAAwAOAAAAzwcFAAMAEQAwABMAAQAzAQEggAMADgAAAM8HBQADAA4ABAAG AAEA9wABCYABACEAAAAwQkU1RjFGMzkzOTVCRTExQkJFN0RFQUNDOEYyNzQwQwB9BwEDkAYAJAMA ABMAAAALACMAAQAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAEAAOQAAKhQKt5W+AR4AcAABAAAA HgAAAChuZHIzNTApIE1vYWIgQWNjb21tb2RhdGlvbnMgAAAAAgFxAAEAAAAWAAAAAb6VtwoUSMYG gQFdEdOxpURFU1QAAAAAHgAeDAEAAAADAAAATVMAAB4AHwwBAAAAGAAAAFdpbmRvd3MvQm5vdmFr L0R3b2xmcm9tAAMABhACYUvcAwAHEBoBAAAeAAgQAQAAAGUAAABJTVBMQU5OSU5HVE9TUEVORFRI RVdFRUtJTlRIRU1PQUJBUkVBV0lUSEFHUk9VUE9GRlJJRU5EU1RIRTNSRFdFRUtJTk1BWVdFV0FO VFRPRE9BR1JPVVBDQU1QLEFOREFNV09OAAAAAAIBCRABAAAAngEAAJoBAABcAgAATFpGdZjWMqoD AAoAcmNwZzEyNf4yAP8CBgKkA+QF6wKDAFATA1QCAGNoCsBzZXT+MgYABsMCgw5QA9UHEwKA/n0K gAjPCdkCgAqBDnELYOJuDhAwMzMK+xOyAdCgIEknbSALUW4DAIEXQCB0byBzcAnwQmQZoGhlIHcJ 4GumIAuAGjNNbwGgIArAtGVhGnBpGkAbgCAJwMEIYHAgb2YgA1AIkDcaEAQgGkIzCyAad01h8Hku IFcaYQBwBUAZsQZkGcAcNmNhbXAs/xuAGhEgIBpwAiAEgRlyBpD1GjNDAHB5AiAXIRogIBJ3CsAa sR1EYgeQBUALUWP3GmAZsgGQeSBUIYEVkBKw4HJ2YXRpAiAEIBuRWyUxBaBtB4AhAWQek2jubxnw GaIEYHUCMAtxI4CsaWsaYCByaChybhuwpwXBG1EgUFNsDeBrA2BlKiAsEsBjLgqFCoVBVyIQJkgl pD8q3FQSgG6oa3MsKtxEA5FXBvAjA1IKhSc5OC8QUjMQNTBTRS/XNiBLuExYNjCwCoUUsQAysAAA AwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAAAEAABzBg4ri3l5W+AUAACDBg4ri3l5W+AR4APQABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAD AA00/TcAALPK ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE958D.2F6C32E0-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: squid@theracetrack.com Subject: (dr350) Getting Your Bearings Date: 03 May 1999 15:44:14 -0700 OK, all this talk about bearings wearing out and the mythical 'bearing supply house' has got me curious and worried. My 92 DR350S has about 11,000 miles on it, and had about 8,600 when I got it. I'm willing to bet none of the previous owners changed or otherwise maintained the bearings. I haven't ever had the wheels off yet, so now I expect the worst... [Gloom gathers on the horizon. I'm sure the next time I ride the bike I'll notice a strange sound that I haven't heard before. Augh!] I've got some new tires on the way, so I'll have the wheels off next week -- what better time to replace the bearings? So, does anyone know the specifications of the front & rear bearings?=20 I'm sure that just walking into one of the "Bearings" places in the local phone book, they're not going to know what size or hardness/service level of bearing I'm going to need. Can anyone who has done this before share some specific details?=20 Would they be in the Clymer manual (I'm at work, so can't check now)? Thanks, Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -=20 Brian Bucknam=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 squid@theracetrack.com=20 TDM 850=A0 DR350S ___________________________________________________ Get Your Free Email at http://www.friendlyemail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) (ndr350) Moab Accommodations Date: 03 May 1999 16:57:36 -0600 >I'm planning to spend the week in the Moab area with a group of friends the >3rd week in May. We want to do a group camp, and am wondering if the >Canyonland campark is the best place to stay, and if reservations are >recommended. We hope to mountain bike and hike near Moab, Slickrock,etc. > >Any recommendations? Canyonlands is the closest to "downtown" which means walking distance to two microbreweries and some of the nicer eateries. It is well maintained and has a pool and complete laundry and shower/toilets. I do recommend it. Slickrock is just down the road.... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J. Carton" <jcarton@mindspring.com> Subject: (dr350) Rear Under fender Date: 03 May 1999 18:56:05 -0400 I am getting ready to remove the rear under fender on my 94 DR 350SE and am wondering if there is any wiring problems I should look our for. Also, should I order the Acerbis DOT tailight/plate holder or just bolt the plate to the fender? Thanks in advance. Joe ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Rear Under fender Date: 03 May 1999 17:01:44 -0600 >I am getting ready to remove the rear under fender on my 94 DR 350SE and am >wondering if there is any wiring problems I should look our for. Also, >should I order the Acerbis DOT tailight/plate holder or just bolt the plate >to the fender? Thanks in advance. >Joe I chickened out on mine and just cut the three inches hanging below the plate... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: squid@theracetrack.com Subject: (dr350) Re: Rear Under fender Date: 03 May 1999 16:57:22 -0700 Joe asks: > I am getting ready to remove the rear under fender on my 94 DR 350SEand am > wondering if there is any wiring problems I should look our for. Also, > should I order the Acerbis DOT tailight/plate holder or just bolt theplate > to the fender? Thanks in advance.Joe Joe, The previous owner of my DR just bolted the plate to the fender. You have to bend the corners or edges of the plate a little to follow the 'contour'/shape of the fender. It worked for the previous owner in Colorado, and it worked for me in Oregon. I don't know what happened in CO, but when I got the OR plate, a DMV person actually comes outside and looks over the bike to verify the VIN and, I assume, check for blinkers and stuff. The bent CO plate didn't seem to phase him at all. I say bend it and bolt it to the fender. Sure, there's no white light shining on the plate so the authorities can read it at night, but the tail light DOES illuminate it in red light. In this case I'd go with the 'better to ask forgiveness than permission' rule. As for wiring, zip-tie the (now useless) loose connector for the white license plate light to something so it doesn't flop around. That's it! Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com TDM 850 DR350S ___________________________________________________ Get Your Free Email at http://www.friendlyemail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) Getting Your Bearings Date: 03 May 1999 17:58:47 -0700 My brother (who gets my parts for me) works at a local bike shop, I'll ask him to get me the numbers for the DR front and rear wheel bearings. His shop gets all their bearings from the proverbial "bearing supply house" that I mentioned in my earlier message. Stay tuned..... -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:44 PM OK, all this talk about bearings wearing out and the mythical 'bearing supply house' has got me curious and worried. My 92 DR350S has about 11,000 miles on it, and had about 8,600 when I got it. I'm willing to bet none of the previous owners changed or otherwise maintained the bearings. I haven't ever had the wheels off yet, so now I expect the worst... [Gloom gathers on the horizon. I'm sure the next time I ride the bike I'll notice a strange sound that I haven't heard before. Augh!] I've got some new tires on the way, so I'll have the wheels off next week -- what better time to replace the bearings? So, does anyone know the specifications of the front & rear bearings? I'm sure that just walking into one of the "Bearings" places in the local phone book, they're not going to know what size or hardness/service level of bearing I'm going to need. Can anyone who has done this before share some specific details? Would they be in the Clymer manual (I'm at work, so can't check now)? Thanks, Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com TDM 850 DR350S ___________________________________________________ Get Your Free Email at http://www.friendlyemail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bret Gergely <bgergely@ili.net> Subject: (dr350) Emulators & fender brackets Date: 03 May 1999 20:58:55 -0400 People have been saying that cartridge forks were not put on the SE = model untill 98'. My SE is 95' with 700 miles. I am attempting to = convert it to be nearly 100% offroad, you know just enough to get to the = trails. If I do not have cartridge forks would it be worth it to buy = Race Tech emulators? I am thinking about scrapping the DR and buying a = XR 400 or WR 400F. It seems like getting the bike up to par will be too = costly and too much work. I am no racer but I like to ride hard long = trails and wip my buddies ass. I am thinking about racing. Some of my = buddies do Race B class in the AMA and I am very close on the stock DR = VS. his KTM 250exc. Hard to make up my mind. The salesmen at the bike = dealer said you had pay full retail on the WR400F becuase it so popular. = Any help would very usefull To answer Joe's question, I ripped off my liscense plate brackett and = bolted the plate to the fender I also took off the shitty metal bracket = that is kinda like a support. When you take off the metal bracket the = wire that connects to the turn signal on the other side hangs. Attempt = to put slack in that line an zip tie it to the nearest place ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Getting Your Bearings Date: 03 May 1999 19:49:02 -0700 Brian, with the wheel off the ground try and shake the wheel by pulling on the top and the opposite side of the bottom to feel any play between the bearings and the axle. If you detect any, the bearings should be replaced . the sprocket side has two bearings and the brake side has one to remove them you take a long punch and insert it from the sprocket side and not quite thru but just before the bearing on the opposite side and pry sideways this will move the spacer between the bearings over exposing the inner race of the bearing reposition the punch to the exposed edge and knock it out alternating the punch tip so as to drive the bearing out as straight as possible once it is out the spacer will fall out then you can turn the wheel over and remove the other two at once. once the bearings are out they have numbers that will be referenced by the bearing supply house any qustions feel free to contact me. Jesse PS look up bearings in the yellow pages for abearing source. squid@theracetrack.com wrote: > OK, all this talk about bearings wearing out and the mythical 'bearing > supply house' has got me curious and worried. > > My 92 DR350S has about 11,000 miles on it, and had about 8,600 when I > got it. I'm willing to bet none of the previous owners changed or > otherwise maintained the bearings. I haven't ever had the wheels off > yet, so now I expect the worst... [Gloom gathers on the horizon. I'm > sure the next time I ride the bike I'll notice a strange sound that I > haven't heard before. Augh!] > > I've got some new tires on the way, so I'll have the wheels off next > week -- what better time to replace the bearings? > > So, does anyone know the specifications of the front & rear bearings? > I'm sure that just walking into one of the "Bearings" places in the > local phone book, they're not going to know what size or > hardness/service level of bearing I'm going to need. > > Can anyone who has done this before share some specific details? > Would they be in the Clymer manual (I'm at work, so can't check now)? > > Thanks, > Brian > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com > TDM 850 DR350S > > ___________________________________________________ > Get Your Free Email at http://www.friendlyemail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) License Plate Mounting Date: 04 May 1999 00:03:55 -0400 (EDT) Joe, If you remount the plate put it right under the tail light, put some kind of rubber between it & the fender. If not the plate may eventually crack around a mounting bolt. I use a piece of old innertube & locktight on the bolts, a lost tag is expensive ! Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Getting Your Bearings Date: 03 May 1999 22:27:06 -0600 I used a "punch" that is large in diameter (and a hammer) to push the bearing out without having it rock back and forth. Really, it is not too hard to get them out (else I wouldn't have been able to do it). The bearing at most risk is the one in the floating hub to which the sprocket is attatched. If you take it apart, you'll realize why. Among other things, it is a small bearing subject to a lot of side forces. And, it can get dirty - especially if you use pressure washers. You can check this bearing by wiggling the floating rear hub to see how much play it has. The aftermarket bearing number for the drive hub is 6205VVC3E**C*SRIS5 (and the seals are, on the left 34X52X8, and right 26X47X7), but if you take yours down to the bearing shop, they will match it. Suzuki has a tendancy to use parts off the shelf, which are, as a result, interchangable (for instance, rear view mirrors are the same on many Suzukis.) TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) gas Date: 03 May 1999 22:27:31 -0600 Way back when I had a stock tank and engine, I would run dry (including reserve) right around 100 miles. I learned you can move a few remaining ounces of gas from the right half of the tank to the left (by tipping the bike on its side) and make it a few more miles. Good luck! TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam <squid@theracetrack.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: Getting Your Bearings Date: 03 May 1999 21:41:15 -0700 Jesse responds to my "bearings" paranoia: >Brian, with the wheel off the ground try and shake the wheel by pulling on >the top and the opposite side of the bottom to feel any play between the >bearings and the axle. If you detect any, the bearings should be replaced ...[SNIP]... >you take a long punch and insert it from the sprocket side and not >quite thru but just before the bearing on the opposite side and pry >sideways this will move the spacer between the bearings over exposing the >inner race of the bearing reposition the punch to the exposed edge and ...[SNIP]... > once the bearings are out >they have numbers that will be referenced by the bearing supply house any >qustions feel free to contact me. Jesse >PS look up bearings in the yellow pages for abearing source. Thanks for the info, Jesse. I did do the 'wheel wiggle' test before I bought the bike, but I haven't thought to do it lately... Duh! I'm actually just kind of trying to replace or service all the longer-term maintenance items on the bike as the opportunities present themselves -- I think the previous owner was good about changing the oil and cleaning the filter and stuff, but I don't think he did stuff like replace fork oil, adjust valves, etc. Since the wheels are going to be off next week anyway, and they've gone (AFAIK) 11K miles and 8 years, I figure I'll replace 'em. I've got the Clymer book, and it sounds like getting the bearings out is easy, but for the rear, Clymer says to use the 'special Suzuki tool'. Does anyone know any good substitutes for that? Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com P.S. With all this discussion of forks and stuff, I'm hearing this voice that says, "Well, you'll have the front wheel off... you might as well install cartridge emulators and progressive springs..." Oh, it's a very evil voice, all right ;-) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "chasmatic" <chasmatic@email.msn.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) wis&min Date: 04 May 1999 02:57:06 -0500 Yes there are. Harral -----Original Message----- >Are there any people in the dr list that is in AMA districts 16 or 23, >that is Wisconsin and Minnesota. >L Bohl > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Hess <Eric.Hess@wcom.com> Subject: (dr350) An Announcement Date: 04 May 1999 13:19:44 -0600 All: This has been a long time coming and it is my distinct pleasure to let you know the the Suzuki Owners Club of the USA is now ready to take members. The SOC-USA is a member-operated club very much like the BMW-MOA or the GWRRA with a major difference: we don't care what you arrive on. Any model of Suzuki motorcycle is welcome, from the WasserBuffel to the Hayabusa, from the RM to the LC it makes no difference to us. We have built this organization with the idea that many models have a very loyal following and have created an infrastructure that will prevent any one style from monopolizing the focus or events that are presented to our members. The SOC-USA is a sister organization with the Suzuki Owners Club of the UK, a club that has just celebrated it's 25th anniversary in Mancheaster, Great Britain. The SOC-UK has been of extreme assistance to us in the creation of the SOC-USA, and I would like to thank them for their efforts. The officers and coordinators of the SOC-USA are riders like all of you and come from the same mailing lists that this is being sent to. I would like to ask all of these officers and coordinators to "stand up" and introduce themselves in the lists that they participate in. For now, you may direct your questions and comments to me, Eric Hess, the acting National Director of the SOC-USA. I may be contacted through email at IronIntruder@juno.com, and I will respond to your queries as quickly as I can, typically within 12 hours. BTW, look for our tent at the SuperRide Rally this coming weekend in Moodus, CT. -- ********************************************** Eric Hess Colorado Springs SOC-USA Nat'l Dir/Rally/Safety Coord 1979 GS750E 1997 VS1400GLPV SOC-UK 19744 AMA 580210 The Suzuki Owners Club of the USA is not affiliated with Suzuki Motors Corp of America or Suzuki Motor Corp of Japan. This club is provided as a service to owners of Suzuki motorcycles. Club members are expected to use their own judgement regarding info obtained from the Club. The directors and coordinators of the SOC-USA are not responsible for any damage resulting from information obtained from the Club. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) what do I do? Date: 04 May 1999 19:30:29 -0400 (EDT) Okay guys what is the deal here?In what order do I do the following.Do I wait for this soon to be rereleased magic airbox,carb jet,or new exhuast?Help me out here thanks guys!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) what do I do? Date: 04 May 1999 17:36:53 -0600 Okay guys what is the deal here?In what order do I do the following.Do I wait for this soon to be rereleased magic airbox,carb jet,or new exhuast?Help me out here thanks guys!!! I would wait and do all three at once...otherwise you'll have to rejet twice... Kurt (124 subscribers on the list now) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: (dr350) dr350 pegs Date: 04 May 1999 19:59:41 EDT does anybody have the footpegs off their street DR they want to sell? I think i still would need to have the bracketry welded..(I have the dirt-version with no mount tabs for pegs) Thanks... Guy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Ensor <sensor@qis.net> Subject: (dr350) is this a good price? Date: 04 May 1999 20:51:55 -0400 I lookin to to buy a DR350 a fellow at work has a 1991 that he cant get started for sale for $1250. It only has 1400 miles on it and hasnt been beat-up, the only off-road has been in his back yard. Is this a good price? Any tips for getting it started would also be appreciated. Thanks, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "David M2 Thompson" <dthomps1@rochester.rr.com> Subject: (dr350) Mill Hall Dual Sport Info On Lione Date: 04 May 1999 21:12:43 -0400 Information & Registration form available on-line at: alt.binaries.pictures.motorcycle Best Dual Sport Event in the East! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) is this a good price? Date: 04 May 1999 20:15:54 -0600 >I lookin to to buy a DR350 a fellow at work has a 1991 that he cant get >started for sale for $1250. It only has 1400 miles on it and hasnt been >beat-up, the only off-road has been in his back yard. Is this a good >price? Any tips for getting it started would also be appreciated. >Thanks, Steve great price if all it needs is a carb cleaning...I'd cut him a deal that you'll put some labor into getting it running and buy it for $1,250 if he pays parts and she runs...otherwise, your rolling the dice.... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: JeepGeek2@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Re:kick starter Date: 04 May 1999 23:36:24 EDT Well here's what it boils down to.. Seems that Suzuki kept the same engine but just plugged it up. the gears and do-dads that make up the kick starter have been removed and that it would be very costly to have them put back in... supposely Suzuki doesnt have a "kit" for the kick starter,,but you have to order piece by piece and i heard its not worth the effort, So my answer is,, live with the electrict starter even though kick starting a bike "looks SO cool"... mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: JeepGeek2@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Rear Under fender Date: 04 May 1999 23:46:11 EDT You mean that waste of plastic that hangs down so everyone can make fun of you driving by? that thing came off the 1st day i bought the bike, i bolted the plate to the fender, snipped the wires to the light ( the one the lights up the license plate ) and i ve never had any problems,, Mark 96 DR 350 ES ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: (dr350) Alaska friends... Date: 04 May 1999 21:56:34 -0600 Going to Alaska? Stop in and say hi to friends, Jaimie and Bill Hall, they love good company and will give you a warm hello and a nice cup of Jo.... Kurt Simpson -----Original Message----- >Hi from AK >We made it up safely and uneventfully. Roads and weather were fine. As soon >as we dropped over the pass into Skagway we got flurries, rain & cold. It is >a late, wet spring. I'm sure it will clear up and be wonderful again! > >WE are out at the Dyea campground. If your friends come up, they can't miss >our motorhome in the camphost spot. We won't have a phone but I am at the >visitor center everyday but Thurs/Fri, or in the area giving a walk. Our >message number (doesn't work in Canada) is 888/758-3105. > >Hope you have a good summer. We are looking forward to getting up to Dawson >City, at least. >Jaimie and Bill > >Please reply to CalamityJaimie@mail.escapees.com > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "chasmatic" <chasmatic@email.msn.com> Subject: (dr350) Norm Kouba's e-mail address Date: 05 May 1999 02:58:54 -0500 Can someone help me with Norms e address? I seem to have lost it. Also, Jessie, you failed to answer my questions regarding your Magic Air Box 2. Since, I was never awarre of the magic air box 1, I was asking questions like: will it have a top opening and a drain? Thanks, Harral Chastain ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Date: 05 May 1999 05:22:07 -0500 The Clymer manual keeps mentioning torque specifications for different bolts like the rear axle and oil drain plug. Is it really necessary to blow $30+ on a torque wrench or can you just put the bolts back as tight as they were by guestimation? Also, where can you find replacement rubber parts (gaskets) like the airbox door gasket and the float valve seat gasket? My Suzuki dealer (worthless & overpriced) says his catalog doesn't list an airbox door gasket and so I have been afraid to ask about the float valve seat gasket, knowing they will say the same thing. Chuck Vokac Panama City, FL 92 DR350S ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) is this a good price? Date: 05 May 1999 07:51:21 EDT In a message dated 5/4/99 7:53:44 PM Central Daylight Time, sensor@qis.net writes: << I lookin to to buy a DR350 a fellow at work has a 1991 that he cant get started for sale for $1250. It only has 1400 miles on it and hasnt been beat-up, the only off-road has been in his back yard. Is this a good price? Any tips for getting it started would also be appreciated. Thanks, Steve >> Sounds like a good deal to me. I am not very familiar with the carb on the SE version but the one on my off road version is very sensitive to stale gas. I also think Kurt is right about you needing to cleen the carb. A 91 with only 1400 hundred mile has done a lot of sitting around. Does the engine turn over smoothly when you depress the dreaded start button? If it will not turn over with a fresh battery charge or makes odd grindy noises you may have internal engine damage (not very likely with only 1400 miles). The other culprit could be a bad CDI unit, so make sure you check for spark. My wife had a DR125SE that she only used for off roading. After sitting up all winter it would not start either. A little fresh gas, a baterry charge and just a touch of starting fluid for flavor would usually solve the problem. WARNING: Never buy your wife a DR125 unless you also buy the optional winch (so she can pick the heavy bastard up after she dumps it) and the optional bolt on hampster wheel (this more than doubles horse power). Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:kick starter Date: 05 May 1999 07:55:53 EDT You might try finding the parts you need at a bone yard. DR's have been around a long time. There is bound to be a few dead ones some where. It would be cool to have both starting options. Mike A Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: (dr350) Helmet info Date: 05 May 1999 10:36:00 -0400 Does anyone have any info on their helmet for someone to read in case of an emergency. I was wondering what info was on there. I was thinking of making something and including name, address, who to contact in case of emergency, what medication your allergic to and blood type. anyone think of anything else. I'd print it out in small font on paper and then tape it to my helmet with clear packing tape Nick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: RE: (dr350) Helmet info Date: 05 May 1999 08:46:41 -0600 >>Does anyone have any info on their helmet for someone to read in case of an emergency.<< I used to have a sticker that said; "In case of accident, do not remove helmet". This was to prevent well meaning individuals from further complication a neck injury by trying to take you helmet off if you are incoherent. Don't know where you can get those stickers, I got mine at a H-D rally of all places, go figure. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net> Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: (dr350) Helmet info Date: 05 May 1999 09:11:30 -0600 I have some of these stickers. If you want one send me a stamped and self addressed envelope. Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 435-259-7356 Fax 435-259-9148 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ----- Original Message ----- <ktm@onelist.com>; <klr650@lists.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:46 AM > >>Does anyone have any info on their helmet for someone to read in case of > an > emergency.<< > > I used to have a sticker that said; "In case of accident, do not remove > helmet". This was to prevent well meaning individuals from further > complication a neck injury by trying to take you helmet off if you are > incoherent. Don't know where you can get those stickers, I got mine at a > H-D rally of all places, go figure. > > Gino > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Norm Kouba's e-mail address Date: 05 May 1999 08:48:37 -0700 Sorry about that,Harral the original air box has a completely open top and a drain which is a short stub tube that protrudes down about 3/4 of an inch. we are incorporating two drains towards the front as the floor of the air box slants down in the front. We have other improvements we are also making to improve the fit. I have had mine since 1993 and they make a big difference in the performance just by them selves alone and if you do other modifications it just gets better. Hope this answers your questions if you have more feel free to contact me. Jesse chasmatic wrote: > Can someone help me with Norms e address? I seem to have lost it. > > Also, Jessie, you failed to answer my questions regarding your Magic Air Box > 2. Since, I was never awarre of the magic air box 1, I was asking questions > like: will it have a top opening and a drain? > > Thanks, Harral Chastain ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: (dr350) Re: Date: 05 May 1999 09:07:22 -0700 Charles the float valve seat has an o'ring available at any bearing supply house for pennies. Also that torque wrench is an invaluable tool that comes into play after that drain plug keeps turning after its suppose to be tight we all get away with it for awhile but guessing will eventually bite us including myself. Jesse charles w vokac wrote: > The Clymer manual keeps mentioning torque specifications for different > bolts like the rear axle and oil drain plug. Is it really necessary to > blow $30+ on a torque wrench or can you just put the bolts back as tight > as they were by guestimation? > > Also, where can you find replacement rubber parts (gaskets) like the > airbox door gasket and the float valve seat gasket? My Suzuki dealer > (worthless & overpriced) says his catalog doesn't list an airbox door > gasket and so I have been afraid to ask about the float valve seat > gasket, knowing they will say the same thing. > > Chuck Vokac > Panama City, FL > 92 DR350S > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: (dr350) FW: (Fwd) Fw: AMA Government Relations E-mail Alert Date: 05 May 1999 13:34:00 -0400 ---------- East Coast Enduro Association - http://www.ecea.org -----Original Message----- 04, 1999 3:54 PM Subject: AMA Government Relations E-mail Alert > > >Please Forward this to any and all motorcyclists. > >AMA Government Relations E-mail Alert >May 4, 1999 >Contact: Ed Moreland, (202) 682-4750 > >Subject: Bikes for Beef--U.S. Trade Representative proposes 100% import >tariff on European motorcycles 500cc and less. > >Action: Letters to U.S. Trade Representative Charlene Barshefsky >requesting removal of motorcycles from target list. Copies to U.S. >Senators and Representatives. > >U.S. trade officials have proposed to put a 100 percent import duty on >some > 75 European goods -- including two categories of motorcycles, 51cc to >250cc, and 251cc to 500cc. It is designed as a retaliation to the >15-member > European Union's (EU) continuing import ban on American beef treated > with >growth hormones. EU officials have not lifted that 10-year-old ban, >despite > a World Trade Organization order to end it in May. > >If U.S. officials impose the retaliatory tariff as scheduled June 13, it >would double the price of a host of under-500cc off-highway machines from >manufacturers such as KTM, Husqvarna, Husaberg, Beta, Bultaco, Fantic, >Gas Gas, Montesa, Scorpa and TM. > >A full report on this issue can be found at: >http://www.ama-cycle.org/magazine/1999/story2je.html > >Letters to U.S. Trade Representative Charlene Barshefsky objecting to the >inclusion of motorcycles on the target list and requesting their removal >are needed as soon as possible. Copies of these letters should also be >mailed to your U.S. Senators and Representative. > >Letters should be addressed to: > >Ambassador Charlene Barshefsky >United States Trade Representative >Winder Building >600 17th Street, NW >Washington, DC 20508 > >SAMPLE TALKING POINTS: > >--It is inappropriate to target motorcycles in what is essentially an >agricultural trade dispute. Wheres the beef in motorcycles? --Motorcycles miss the target. Imposing tariffs on motorcycles does not target the EU agricultural industries benefiting from the trade restriction, Nor does it help the agricultural industries armed by the EU exclusion of beef --The motorcycle tariff would jeopardize many businesses and American jobs. There are a large number of motorcycle dealers and after-market equipment manufacturers that specialize in European motorcycles. These tariffs could collapse this specialized market. --Imposing tariffs on these motorcycles will not assist any Motorcycle producers. Manufacturers such as Harley-Davidson, Polaris and Excelsior Henderson produce larger street motorcycles. Any shift of purchases caused by exorbitant prices of the European motorcycles would simply be to other imports. --If imposed, the European motorcycle tariff would severely harm the sport of observed motorcycle trials. Many of the motorcycles used for Enduro and observed trials competition fall directly in the category of European motorcycles 500cc and less. --A substantial American community opposes the proposed tariffs on these motorcycles. It includes those who ride for pleasure, recreation, competition and transportation; motorcycle dealers and distributors who sell these products; and those who manufacture and sell after-market products that are dependent on the sale of these motorcycles. Please write and mail your letters as soon as possible. Forward this message to your riding friends for action. If you have any questions, please call the AMA's Washington, DC Representative, Ed Moreleand at =(202) 682-4750 or e-mail edmoreland=2Eama@erols.com Forwarded from Rick & Judy Resh I for one am going to have to write a letter over this one! Even if you ride a bike from "another part of the world" you still should be concerned. If you write one letter this year, let it be to Ambassador Charlene Barshefsky Will Rosenberry ______________________________________________________________________ To unsubscribe, write to ecea-unsubscribe@listbot.com Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Re:kick starter Date: 05 May 1999 19:29:46 EDT In a message dated 5/5/99 4:58:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RAld277@aol.com writes: << You might try finding the parts you need at a bone yard. DR's have been around a long time. There is bound to be a few dead ones some where. It would be cool to have both starting options. Mike A Nashville >> If you can try to get the kick assembly for a 1993 DRS (the king DR). Carrie just might have a slightly used set that she would sell. I'll have to ask her. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Brian Luttman" <bluttman@hpnc.com> Subject: (dr350) Selling my 1994 DR350SE Date: 05 May 1999 18:41:56 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE9726.F3F00F20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've really appreciated all the insight into the DR350 from this list but I think I am ready to move on to something lighter and more dirt worthy (read KLX300R). So I'm putting her on the block. 3k miles, Acerbis handguards, Acerbis Taillight/plate, Dunlop D903 (barely DOT legal) asking $2300 to see her goto: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Shores/1104/DR350.html If I can give anymore information email me at bluttman@hpnc.com Brian Luttman Arlington, Texas ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE9726.F3F00F20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>I've=20 really appreciated all the insight into the DR350 from this list but I = think I=20 am ready to move on to something lighter and more dirt worthy (read=20 KLX300R). So I'm putting her on the block.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>3k=20 miles, Acerbis handguards, Acerbis Taillight/plate, Dunlop D903 (barely = DOT=20 legal)</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>asking=20 $2300</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>to see=20 her goto: <A=20 href=3D"http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Shores/1104/DR350.html">http:/= /www.geocities.com/Heartland/Shores/1104/DR350.html</A></FONT></SPAN></DI= V> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>If I=20 can give anymore information email me at <A=20 href=3D"mailto:bluttman@hpnc.com">bluttman@hpnc.com</A></FONT></SPAN></DI= V> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>Brian=20 Luttman</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT = color=3D#000000=20 face=3DArial size=3D2>Arlington, Texas</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D910493423-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BE9726.F3F00F20-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: (klr650) dangles... Date: 05 May 1999 19:48:45 -0600 >Jake Jakeman mailed me one of those stickers when he sent me some >of his countershaft sprocket shims, along with some insence and a >feather dealie to put on the zipper of my jacket and I can tell you that if Jake ever meets you in person the first thing he'll ask is "where is your dangle"...a word to the wise for anyone meeting Jake at Moab....put it on your coat right now if it isn't already. Jake performs a ritual ceremony over each and every one of these asking the spirits for your safety... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Carb/Carb Parts Date: 06 May 1999 00:21:18 -0400 (EDT) FYI I have a stock carb from a 90 DRS 350 gathering dust. It has a Scott's T handle airscrew & Dynojet kit. This is a single cable carb. If the carb or any parts on it can help anyone e-mail me. With so many carb questions I thought I would mention it. Jim A. 90 DRS385 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Selling my 1994 DR350SE Date: 06 May 1999 08:04:15 EDT Sorry to see you go Brian. Seems like a very good price on your DR. Good luck! I used to live in your neck of the woods, south of 20 off Bowen Road. I miss riding the mud hole north of six flags by the golf course. Is it still open? Mike A Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) You might be a dual sport rider if... Date: 06 May 1999 09:44:56 -0600 In the spirit of Jeff Foxworthy's "You might be a redneck if...", I will be featuring a "You might be a dual sport rider if.." segment in the next few issues of Dual Sport News. For those not familiar with Mr. Foxworthy's humor, here is a sample: You might be a redneck if you had a toothpick in your mouth for your wedding picture or You might be a redneck if you have ever had a black eye and a hickey at the same time Send your submissions directly to me so as not to waste bandwidth and they will be published starting with the July/August issue. Thanks. Gino Pokluda, editor, Dual Sport News ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TCrowe1234@aol.com Subject: (dr350) DRtyres Date: 06 May 1999 12:03:24 EDT im fitting road tyres on my DR350 whats the biggest size that will fit in the rear ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: FW: (dr350) You might be a dual sport rider if... Date: 06 May 1999 10:13:12 -0600 -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:21 AM Gino: Could you help me with names / numbers of persons or clubs in Minnesota that are involved in Dual Sporting? I'm in Minneapolis, and I'm having problems finding info on clubs, trails, etc. Dan -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 10:45 AM 'klr650@lists.xmission.com' In the spirit of Jeff Foxworthy's "You might be a redneck if...", I will be featuring a "You might be a dual sport rider if.." segment in the next few issues of Dual Sport News. For those not familiar with Mr. Foxworthy's humor, here is a sample: You might be a redneck if you had a toothpick in your mouth for your wedding picture or You might be a redneck if you have ever had a black eye and a hickey at the same time Send your submissions directly to me so as not to waste bandwidth and they will be published starting with the July/August issue. Thanks. Gino Pokluda, editor, Dual Sport News ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "chasmatic" <chasmatic@email.msn.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) DRtyres Date: 06 May 1999 13:40:41 -0500 18" unless you buy a new wheel :-) -----Original Message----- >im fitting road tyres on my DR350 whats the biggest size that will fit in the >rear > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) Suspention -When-how Date: 06 May 1999 14:25:27 -0700 As far as i know they went to cartridge fork on 97 on the front.( Showa- brand ? )Honda has the same one is in it ? The question : I did read about suspension weakness on DRs , i have a 99 model , did Suzuki fixed the suspension problem , is it any better than the previous year model? Or does my 99 susp. have the same sickness as the others ( too soft) I could not tell if it is soft or not, because i always had " Rice-rockets" , Zx-6 , Zx-11, in the past, and could not compare to Mx or other DP bikes. Also if some one could tell me the best setting for compression and rebound adjustment on front and rear. I tried to adjust but could not tell much different, ( inexperience???). What is the most dangerous setting that one possibly can have , Low compression and high rebound? or the other way around? Thanks for any advice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) Suspention -When-how Date: 06 May 1999 15:29:00 -0400 George, for now set all the setting in the middle. The settings will change depending on the terrain you are going to ride. When I ride sand and whoops, I stiffen up the compression and slow down the rebound. But you don't want the rebound too slow or it won't rebound quick enough when going through whoops. If it rebounds too quick,. the back of the bike will jump off the ground and hit you in the butt. To quick of a rebound can be confused with to soft of a compression. If the bike compresses too quick and bottoms out, the back of the bike will also hit you in the butt. The first thing you want to do it set the rear shock sag at about 4 inch differnece between the suspension being fully extended and you sitting on the bike. Depending on your rider weight, you may want to go to stiffer springs. Norm Kouba can probably answers your questions more direct/ I've always found suspension to be trail and error. All my old bikes didn't really have much adjustment or were a pain to stop and adjust. But believe me, it makes a big difference. Nick ---------- As far as i know they went to cartridge fork on 97 on the front.( Showa- brand ? )Honda has the same one is in it ? The question : I did read about suspension weakness on DRs , i have a 99 model , did Suzuki fixed the suspension problem , is it any better than the previous year model? Or does my 99 susp. have the same sickness as the others ( too soft) I could not tell if it is soft or not, because i always had " Rice-rockets" , Zx-6 , Zx-11, in the past, and could not compare to Mx or other DP bikes. Also if some one could tell me the best setting for compression and rebound adjustment on front and rear. I tried to adjust but could not tell much different, ( inexperience???). What is the most dangerous setting that one possibly can have , Low compression and high rebound? or the other way around? Thanks for any advice. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Mueller <norton2@earthlink.net> Subject: (dr350) Tires? Date: 07 May 1999 07:23:41 -0800 About tires!! Does this sound like a good setup for my '98 DR350SE? I ride probably 80% dirt. Front: Dunlop K139 300x21 Rear: Parelli M21 120/90-18 I am replacing M21 both front and back. The rear was a 110/80-18 and the front 90/90-21 Thanks in advance! -- Alan Mueller '63 Triumph TR6 '67 BSA A65 '75 Norton 850 Mark III '98 Suzuki DR350E '98 BMW F650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) Carb/Carb Parts Date: 07 May 1999 10:02:29 -0700 FYI I have a Clark "mega-size" tank for sale that I took off of a 93 dr350s I just bought. (a must for long rides) john.lees@pss.boeing.com > ---------- > From: jadler@webtv.net[SMTP:jadler@webtv.net] > Sent: 5/5/1999 9:21 PM > To: dr350@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr350) Carb/Carb Parts > > FYI I have a stock carb from a 90 DRS 350 gathering dust. It has a > Scott's T handle airscrew & Dynojet kit. This is a single cable carb. If > the carb or any parts on it can help anyone e-mail me. > With so many carb questions I thought I would mention it. > Jim A. > 90 DRS385 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "William Slade" <William.B.Slade-1@tc.umn.edu> Subject: (dr350) front end work Date: 07 May 1999 12:17:57 -0500 Hello All, I recently had the privelege of witnessing firsthand the durability of a DR350S front end vs. a Honda Civic front fender, colliding at abt 10 to 15 mph. Caveat: Beware of cars pulling complete (or 1/2 complete) U-turns from their parking spots alongside the road on which you are traveling. Anyway, my '91 DR's forks are bent about 1 inch or so over their length measuring from the bottom tripletree to the axle. The wheel looks straight. I'm now looking for info: 1) What are the potential "easy" front-end swaps? I'm not concerned with doing a little maching of a steering stem or whatever. I've read of other using late 1980s/early 90s RM/RMX forks, but has anyone experimented with other makes? 2) Also, any experience with straightening DR fork tubes? Any info in appreciated. Thanks! Will S. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) front end work Date: 07 May 1999 11:23:47 -0700 Will, I recommend staying within species (brands) only for ease of installation, much less footwork will result - there are RMXs and RMs that get parted out if you are patient. Yes; other brands of suspension parts are interchangeable - there are two factories in Japan (KYB & Showa) making all the components for all of the four brands. Example: an early '90s CR250 manual accurately depicts my '91 RMX forks, but the Zook manual is way off! If you go off brand or not, then when it comes down to buying the needed misc. pieces - special order a $30 part here, $15 part there, and on and on it will go. To prevent reaching a dead end and/or custom fabricating some of the parts which your health and well-being depend upon, reuse as much as you can or have on hand (hubs, axles, calipers, etc.) or use same-brand OEM parts. I spent ~$80 on misc. small parts even though I bought the front end essentially complete; can't imagine what mess it would be if I use forks off of an XYZ. With the RMX shock (essentially same as RM) it bolted right up; no relocations, spacers or machining of the rockers or pull arms. (Did have to reroute the exhaust with an "S" bend, though.) The front was even easier: 0.010" off of the upper portion of the stem. There are fellows out there who have used tubes you can buy for a fraction of new; parting out situations or extras. I sold my conventional cartridge forks to a DRSE owner when converting mine. On my first dirt adventure on my first dirt bike, a MR250, I bent the forks and had them straightened by the dealer using a press. The front end never was quite the same with a new, weaker easy-to-tweek feel, even though the seals did not leak after the repair. John "William Slade" <William.B.Slade-1@tc.umn.edu> on 05/07/99 10:17:57 AM Please respond to "William Slade" <William.B.Slade-1@tc.umn.edu> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) Hello All, I recently had the privelege of witnessing firsthand the durability of a DR350S front end vs. a Honda Civic front fender, colliding at abt 10 to 15 mph. Caveat: Beware of cars pulling complete (or 1/2 complete) U-turns from their parking spots alongside the road on which you are traveling. Anyway, my '91 DR's forks are bent about 1 inch or so over their length measuring from the bottom tripletree to the axle. The wheel looks straight. I'm now looking for info: 1) What are the potential "easy" front-end swaps? I'm not concerned with doing a little maching of a steering stem or whatever. I've read of other using late 1980s/early 90s RM/RMX forks, but has anyone experimented with other makes? 2) Also, any experience with straightening DR fork tubes? Any info in appreciated. Thanks! Will S. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dan Schewe <dschewe@forwardtech.com> Subject: (dr350) Any good deals out there on springs? Date: 07 May 1999 13:39:12 -0500 Happy Friday everyone! Anyone have a line on some good prices for .46KG front springs (Race Tech if possible), and a 7.6KG rear spring (to be used with Kouba links). I'm seeing around $90 bucks for each, but theres got to be some better prices out there. The springs are for a 1994 DR350SE. I would like to order the Scott's T-handle airscrew at the same time, but I'll deal with that seperatly if needed. Secondly, has anyone opened-up the rear shock to replace the fluids? I know it's a trick to minimize air upon re-assembly, but has anyone done it? Will any parts / seals get damaged in the process of a fluid change? It doen't sound like any special tools are manditory, but the comments of those who have done it are important to me. Norm, you'll be next one I contact for the links once I hammer out a spring deal. Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Andy Graham <graham@si2.org> Subject: RE: (dr350) front end work Date: 07 May 1999 14:16:18 -0500 William - There is a guy in the bay area [Forks by Frank] I believe who specializes in straightening and repair. Andy -- 97 DR350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires? Date: 07 May 1999 15:28:51 EDT In a message dated 5/7/99 7:20:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, norton2@earthlink.net writes: << About tires!! Does this sound like a good setup for my '98 DR350SE? I ride probably 80% dirt. Front: Dunlop K139 300x21 Rear: Parelli M21 120/90-18 I am replacing M21 both front and back. The rear was a 110/80-18 and the front 90/90-21 Thanks in advance! -- Alan Mueller >> Alan, That is a perfect combo! Do not put on anything larger than the 120 on the rear. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: impresa@erols.com Subject: Re: (dr350) is this a good price? Date: 07 May 1999 16:57:59 -0700 Steve, Lats year I bought a 1990 DR350 for $800.00 from a guy who claimed that the thing wouldn't start. He thought that it had some real problems. The problem.....he didn't know the "drill". Could be that the only problem with the bike you are interested in buying is that the current owner doesn't know HOW TO START IT!! Hopefully that is all. Good luck, and try to avoid starting it in front of the current owner if you think the only problem is the lack of knowledge of the starting drill. Dave Steve Ensor wrote: > > I lookin to to buy a DR350 a fellow at work has a 1991 that he cant get > started for sale for $1250. It only has 1400 miles on it and hasnt been > beat-up, the only off-road has been in his back yard. Is this a good > price? Any tips for getting it started would also be appreciated. > Thanks, Steve ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) tires Date: 07 May 1999 19:35:19 -0400 (EDT) Hey guys whats up with the different numbers for the front tire size for the k139.I see a 80/100-21 and a guy wrote in a 300-21 are these the same size?I am going to buy tires this weekend and want to know what to get.The back is getting the MT21 120/90-18 I am not sure what is best size for the front.Thanks in advance to all who reply. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) front end work Date: 07 May 1999 21:48:08 -0700 William, I have done both, other forks 87RM250 cartrige, and straighten,depending on surface damage,dents,deep scratches etc. RM forks info check back on the list a few days. if you cant find it get back to me and I will fill you in. Jesse William Slade wrote: > Hello All, > I recently had the privelege of witnessing firsthand the durability of a > DR350S front end vs. a Honda Civic front fender, colliding at abt 10 to 15 > mph. Caveat: Beware of cars pulling complete (or 1/2 complete) U-turns from > their parking spots alongside the road on which you are traveling. > > Anyway, my '91 DR's forks are bent about 1 inch or so over their length > measuring from the bottom tripletree to the axle. The wheel looks straight. > > I'm now looking for info: > > 1) What are the potential "easy" front-end swaps? I'm not concerned with > doing a little maching of a steering stem or whatever. I've read of other > using late 1980s/early 90s RM/RMX forks, but has anyone experimented with > other makes? > > 2) Also, any experience with straightening DR fork tubes? > > Any info in appreciated. > Thanks! > Will S. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Any good deals out there on springs? Date: 07 May 1999 22:10:02 -0700 Hi Dan I just put one together Yesterday, after having the shock body plated with a new material to the bike industry. Nickle boron same coefficient as teflon and harder than chrome and it works great! cost is about $70.00 for the plating but the shock will never wear out. I plated a camshaft lobes with this material only four years ago on a friends DR and just recently freshend up the top end and the cam showed no wear! For just refilling the shock. is not a bad job.I could describe it or norm would know also if you want a description let me know .and I will type up a procedure.for you.Jesse Dan Schewe wrote: > Happy Friday everyone! > > Anyone have a line on some good prices for .46KG front springs (Race Tech > if possible), and a 7.6KG rear spring (to be used with Kouba links). I'm > seeing around $90 bucks for each, but theres got to be some better prices > out there. The springs are for a 1994 DR350SE. > > I would like to order the Scott's T-handle airscrew at the same time, but > I'll deal with that seperatly if needed. > > Secondly, has anyone opened-up the rear shock to replace the fluids? I know > it's a trick to minimize air upon re-assembly, but has anyone done it? > Will any parts / seals get damaged in the process of a fluid change? It > doen't sound like any special tools are manditory, but the comments of > those who have done it are important to me. > > Norm, you'll be next one I contact for the links once I hammer out a spring > deal. > > Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) t-vent Date: 08 May 1999 06:59:21 -0400 (EDT) On this T-VENT carb mod.I have 2 vent hoses one to the fuel cock and one up into the frame.Do I T both?By T does it mean one side up into the frame again and the other down towards the ground? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) more ques. Date: 08 May 1999 07:08:54 -0400 (EDT) What does this t-handle air screw do for the bike?How about this jx needle?Anyone got the phone# for thumper racing please.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) t-vent Date: 08 May 1999 09:19:42 -0700 > > On this T-VENT carb mod.I have 2 vent hoses one to the fuel cock and one > up into the frame.Do I T both?By T does it mean one side up into the > frame again and the other down towards the ground? My understanding of this modification is that you want to drain any gas that happens to splash up into the vent hose (which is the one that disappears up into the frame). Don't touch the vacuum hose to the fuel cock, or your bike won't run (for long...) You want to "T" the vent line right after it exits the carb, run the original vent up into the frame, and run the new "drain" down to an appropriate level. Hope this helps, Bryan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "loren & julie bohl" <bohls@werewolf.net> Subject: (dr350) rear sprockets Date: 08 May 1999 14:11:56 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE995C.BAC3FD00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know who would have a 43 or 44 tooth sprocket available for = a 98 DR350SE,=20 I can't seem to find anything under a 46 tooth sprocket in all the = aftermarket books at my suz. dealer. If you know where I can get one please mail me the name and = if possible the=20 E mail address, or phone number of the company. Thanks in advance, L. Bohl ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE995C.BAC3FD00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know who would have a 43 = or 44 tooth=20 sprocket available for a 98 DR350SE, </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I can't seem to find anything under = a 46 tooth=20 sprocket in all the aftermarket books at my</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>suz. dealer. If you know where I can = get one=20 please mail me the name and if possible the </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>E mail address, or phone number of the = company.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks in advance,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>L. Bohl</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE995C.BAC3FD00-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: (dr350) rear sprockets Date: 08 May 1999 22:04:35 -0500 (CDT) >Does anyone know who would have a 43 or 44 tooth sprocket available for >a 98 DR350SE, >I can't seem to find anything under a 46 tooth sprocket in all the >aftermarket books at my >suz. dealer. If you know where I can get one please mail me the name and >if possible the >E mail address, or phone number of the company. > >Thanks in advance, >L. Bohl Sprocket specialties is the hot set up, I just ordered and recieved a 39 tooth rear sprocket that will fit the 90-99 DR and the 97-99 DRSE models. They will build and ship any size you want. If you or you dealer cannot find there phone or address let me know and I will pass it on. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions DR. DR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) rear sprockets Date: 08 May 1999 21:39:20 -0600 >>Does anyone know who would have a 43 or 44 tooth sprocket available for >>a 98 DR350SE, >>I can't seem to find anything under a 46 tooth sprocket in all the >>aftermarket books at my >>suz. dealer. If you know where I can get one please mail me the name and >>if possible the >>E mail address, or phone number of the company. >> >>Thanks in advance, >>L. Bohl > >Sprocket specialties is the hot set up, I just ordered and recieved a 39 >tooth rear sprocket that will fit the 90-99 DR and the 97-99 DRSE models. >They will build and ship any size you want. If you or you dealer cannot >find there phone or address let me know and I will pass it on. Norm > >Suzuki DR Suspensions >DR. DR I'm confused here...you guys are wanting to make the gearing taller? Does the 441 cry out for it? Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Date: 09 May 1999 01:36:40 -0500 Yesterday, we were riding through water that was deep enough to completely submerge the carburetor several times. Once, the engine cut out underwater and I feared water entered the airbox. When I opened the airbox, it was dry. It turned out the carburetor float bowl was full of water. I wondered if I didn't tighten the rubber boots on the carburetor the last time I had it off and this is what let the water in. Am I killing my engine by getting it wet like this? I always heard not to get a hot engine wet because you can crack it by the sudden temperature change. And, is is normal for water to be able to enter the carburetor or did I just forget to tighten the rubber boots to the carburetor? Chuck Vokac Panama City, Florida 92 DR350S ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam <squid@theracetrack.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: Tire Sizes Date: 08 May 1999 22:34:31 -0700 john miller asks: > Hey guys whats up with the different numbers for the front tire size > for the k139.I see a 80/100-21 and a guy wrote in a 300-21 are these the > same size?I am going to buy tires this weekend and want to know what to > get.The back is getting the MT21 120/90-18 I am not sure what is best > size for the front.Thanks in advance to all who reply. The '300' measurements are in 1/100s of an inch diameter of the cross-section of the tire (ie. 3 inches). Sometimes you'll see this like 4.10, too. The 120/90 stuff is 120mm wide, and 90% as tall as it is wide. The '-18' and '-21' at the end is the inches of diameter of the wheel. Since an inch is about 25mm, you can convert back and forth. I'm pretty sure the front tire on the DR should be a 90/90-21 in 'metric' size lingo. Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) more ques. Date: 08 May 1999 23:12:20 -0700 John, t handle is an optional air screw that you can adjust your idle mixture with , easier because you can access it with your fingers. the stock one is only accessable with a real short screw driverup under the front of the carb. Thumpers order no. is 1-800-259-5186 for tech info.903-938-3340. hope this helps. Jesse john miller wrote: > What does this t-handle air screw do for the bike?How about this jx > needle?Anyone got the phone# for thumper racing please.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) t-vent success!!!!! Date: 09 May 1999 11:36:43 -0400 (EDT) My friend used the t-vent modification I learned from this wonderfull site and no bogging after a days riding.He thanks you all!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bigjigger@att.net Subject: (dr350) optional oil cooler/ synthetic or motoroil Date: 10 May 1999 00:04:24 +0000 to all fellow DR finatics i have recently accuried a 96 dr350 dirt version. brand new right off the show room floor yes ill tell you 2900 hundred out the dooor the guy just wanted out of his store i livein hot climates question is the motor has less the 1 hr on it and wondering to use synthetic or conventional with a oil cooler all sugestions would be appreciated thanks 96dr350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) optional oil cooler/ synthetic or motoroil Date: 09 May 1999 18:27:49 -0600 >wondering to use synthetic or conventional with a oil >cooler all sugestions would be appreciated thanks 96dr350 break it in with conventional oil before synthetic...make sure the rings are seated first....I just found an oil that is not SJ rated...it is Valvoline Premium Blue for $6 a gallon... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) FOR SALE DR350SE 99 Date: 10 May 1999 07:03:13 -0500 It has 600 mile, and the first maintenance service was just done. Do to moving to a different area , i am going to spend my spare time boating. Most of the unnessesary crap is removed and boxed if needed $4000 In the Northern ILLINOIS and Southern WISCONSIN area. If interested send mail to : mtctechATacronetDOTnet , Delivery available, if needed George ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Browning" <husky350@sprynet.com> Subject: (dr350) 96 DR350S Initial Impressions Date: 10 May 1999 10:09:09 -0400 I just picked up a 96 DR350S yesterday. I got it off the original owner, it is completely stock (except for a small useless luggage rack) and had 1180 miles on it. I thought I'd share my initial impressions of it and see if anyone else has the same experience. I have had a lot of dirt bikes and street bikes, one other dual sport (a Yamaha XT 225), and a street legal Husqvarna 350. My first impression after riding 10-15 miles in town and on the highway to get to some trails is this: the bike is better in the dirt and worse on the road than I would have guessed. On the freeway, it'll do 75, but not happily. The motor seems much happier at 65. The bike also feels a little unsteady at 75 (but not at 65). The bike vibrates more than I thought it would. Nothing like a KTM 400, but nowhere near as smooth as the XT225, or the new DR650. The stock gearing is way too high. In 6th gear at 75, it was only spinning around 7000 rpm. Off-road, it couldn't accelerate much up a hill in 2nd unless I really screamed it in first. Does anyone know if I would need to remove a link from the chain to install a 13 tooth front sprocket? - the chain adjuster is at about 3 now. Off-road, it is a lot better than I figured it would be. In spite of the gearing, it climbed any obstacle. I didn't stall it once, even climbing a steep hill in too high of a gear. Once I firmed up the suspension, it generally did pretty well. However, it glanced off of small sharp-edged rocks, and once the back end kicked out to the side when I slammed in into a mudhole. My biggest complaint off-road would be the stock tires. The front is in pretty good condition, but the tire seemed to wander on wet ground. The back tire was terrible on anything but smooth dry ground. I didn't even attempt muddy hills. When I got home I disconnected the clutch safety switch and got rid of the license plate fender extension. I am planing on replacing the tires with the Kenda Trackmaster II. The only modifications I am thinking of is opening up the airbox, rejetting, and n new airfilter. I think Thumper Racing has a kit to do all of this - anyone use it? I am pretty happy with the power, although it would be nice to have a little more on top for highway riding - what kinds of changes can I expect with the airbox and carb mods? Also, does anyone else think the shifting is pretty notchy? I haven't missed any shifts, but it seems like something is misaligned - is this just the way it is? Has anyone had any luck with particular brands of motor oil to ease the shifting? Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Keith Browning 1996 DR 350S ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) Tengai and XT500 for sale Date: 10 May 1999 10:17:09 -0600 I'm posting these for a friend of mine. Both bikes are as advertised. Gino 1990 Kawasaki Tengai 650cc single. Paris Dakar look dual sport. 7,000 miles. Near mint condition. Fresh service, tyres, battery. $2950. Call Joel Wood in Taos, NM at 505-758-9597. This is an interesting, beautiful, fun bike that has led a pampered existence. 1980 Yamaha TT500 Black and polished aluminum beauty. Completely original with factory lighting kit and speedometer. Purchased new in 1982. Used less than 2000 miles. Could be eligible for show or museum with only minor detailing. Many spares including extra tanks, NOS fenders and much more. $2500.00. A bit high, but this is a must see motorcycle. Call Joel Wood in Taos, NM at 505-758-9597 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) DR350 gel seat Date: 10 May 1999 11:11:58 -0600 So... is anybody out there using the Suzuki gel seat on their DR350? Any comments? Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Tengai and XT500 for sale Date: 10 May 1999 14:22:58 EDT I would love to have that TT500. To bad it is so far away. Had one some years back and really loved it. Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: (dr350) FW: Clark tank Date: 10 May 1999 11:44:27 -0700 > ---------- > From: Lees, John W > Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:43 AM > To: 'Brian Bucknam'; Lees, John W > Subject: RE: Clark tank > > > > ---------- > From: Lees, John W > Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 9:29 AM > To: 'Brian Bucknam' > Subject: RE: Clark tank > > I am in Portland, Or. When I bought the bike a month ago the gentleman I bought it from had it on the bike as he rode dual sport events. He had the original tank as part of the deal, (he took it off and stored it new). > I put the original tank back on as it was "pristine" and in my opinion it looks a lot better with the stock one. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it (Clark), except it does not look as good with it as the stock one. need money for a new tire and I do not plan on riding long distances , BTW you are very perceptive on the E-Mail address (Boeing does have a plant in Portland which most people do not know) > > John Lees > > ---------- > From: Brian Bucknam[SMTP:squid@theracetrack.com] > Sent: 5/8/1999 10:35 PM > To: Lees , John W > Subject: Re: Clark tank > > > FYI I have a Clark "mega-size" tank for sale that I took off of a 93 > dr350s I just bought. > (a must for long rides) > > How much are you asking? > > Why are you selling it? (What did you replace it with and why?) > > Are you in Seattle or Portland? (I'm assuming from the Boeing address -- I'm > in Portland) > > Thanks, > Brian > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) FW: Clark tank Date: 10 May 1999 14:48:00 -0400 Other than long range, the benefit to the other tanks is it makes the weight of the gas sit lower, making the bike handle better off-road ---------- > ---------- > From: Lees, John W > Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:43 AM > To: 'Brian Bucknam'; Lees, John W > Subject: RE: Clark tank > > > > ---------- > From: Lees, John W > Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 9:29 AM > To: 'Brian Bucknam' > Subject: RE: Clark tank > > I am in Portland, Or. When I bought the bike a month ago the gentleman I bought it from had it on the bike as he rode dual sport events. He had the original tank as part of the deal, (he took it off and stored it new). > I put the original tank back on as it was "pristine" and in my opinion it looks a lot better with the stock one. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it (Clark), except it does not look as good with it as the stock one. need money for a new tire and I do not plan on riding long distances , BTW you are very perceptive on the E-Mail address (Boeing does have a plant in Portland which most people do not know) > > John Lees > > ---------- > From: Brian Bucknam[SMTP:squid@theracetrack.com] > Sent: 5/8/1999 10:35 PM > To: Lees , John W > Subject: Re: Clark tank > > > FYI I have a Clark "mega-size" tank for sale that I took off of a 93 > dr350s I just bought. > (a must for long rides) > > How much are you asking? > > Why are you selling it? (What did you replace it with and why?) > > Are you in Seattle or Portland? (I'm assuming from the Boeing address -- I'm > in Portland) > > Thanks, > Brian > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bret Gergely <bgergely@ili.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) 96 DR350S Initial Impressions Date: 10 May 1999 15:40:47 -0400 No, i have a 95 DR 350SE and I installed a 13 tooth front sprocket and I = just had to move the rear wheel back a little. Also I think that it is = a good idea to remove the kill switch mounted on the kick stand. I = removed mine a couple days ago. Bret Gergely, 95 DR350SE 96 DR350S -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:09 AM I just picked up a 96 DR350S yesterday. I got it off the original = owner, it is completely stock (except for a small useless luggage rack) and had 1180 miles on it. I thought I'd share my initial impressions of it and = see if anyone else has the same experience. I have had a lot of dirt bikes and street bikes, one other dual sport = (a Yamaha XT 225), and a street legal Husqvarna 350. My first impression after riding 10-15 miles in town and on the highway to get to some = trails is this: the bike is better in the dirt and worse on the road than I = would have guessed. On the freeway, it'll do 75, but not happily. The motor seems much happier at 65. The bike also feels a little unsteady at 75 = (but not at 65). The bike vibrates more than I thought it would. Nothing = like a KTM 400, but nowhere near as smooth as the XT225, or the new DR650. =20 The stock gearing is way too high. In 6th gear at 75, it was only spinning around 7000 rpm. Off-road, it couldn't accelerate much up a = hill in 2nd unless I really screamed it in first. Does anyone know if I = would need to remove a link from the chain to install a 13 tooth front = sprocket? - the chain adjuster is at about 3 now. Off-road, it is a lot better than I figured it would be. In spite of = the gearing, it climbed any obstacle. I didn't stall it once, even climbing = a steep hill in too high of a gear. Once I firmed up the suspension, it generally did pretty well. However, it glanced off of small sharp-edged rocks, and once the back end kicked out to the side when I slammed in = into a mudhole. My biggest complaint off-road would be the stock tires. The front is = in pretty good condition, but the tire seemed to wander on wet ground. The back tire was terrible on anything but smooth dry ground. I didn't even attempt muddy hills. When I got home I disconnected the clutch safety switch and got rid of = the license plate fender extension. I am planing on replacing the tires = with the Kenda Trackmaster II.=20 The only modifications I am thinking of is opening up the airbox, rejetting, and n new airfilter. I think Thumper Racing has a kit to do = all of this - anyone use it? I am pretty happy with the power, although it would be nice to have a little more on top for highway riding - what = kinds of changes can I expect with the airbox and carb mods? Also, does anyone else think the shifting is pretty notchy? I haven't missed any shifts, but it seems like something is misaligned - is this = just the way it is? Has anyone had any luck with particular brands of motor = oil to ease the shifting? Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Keith Browning 1996 DR 350S ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) DR350 gel seat Date: 11 May 1999 04:37:46 PDT I tell you what....I had an order w/ Travelcade (TC) for their Dual-Sport seat kit (one piece foam, gel insert, skin ready to staple to your stock base pan) that was gonna cost $169. I seemed like a great product, and I read a good review about it in CycleWorld. Someone on this list mentioned that their Suzuki Gel seat was made by TC, so I called TC and they confirmed this. Local Suzuki dealer is now selling me a Suz Gel seat, which is the whole thing incl base pan, for $165. To hell w/ TC... they had my order for over 1 month already & said it would be another 2-3wks yet! I'll post a report once my ass meets the new seat. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> >Reply-To: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> >To: "'dr350@lists.xmission.com'" <dr350@lists.xmission.com> >Subject: (dr350) DR350 gel seat >Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 11:11:58 -0600 > >So... is anybody out there using the Suzuki gel seat on their DR350? Any >comments? > >Gino > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: (dr350) RE: Clark tank Date: 11 May 1999 09:36:44 -0700 Brian : Lets go riding sometime . I did post the list twice by mistake. I just got gp110 IRC tires and have not had a chance to try them. . . but they look Ok to me. I will ride on the street at least half the time . My tele # is 503-661-6878. $100 seems a little high how about 75.00, Ironically the old owner called me and left a messae about the tank, He just bought a '99 dr350es (lucky dog) He left a message and I will call Him soon. Isn't there a law in that requires a metal tank be used as part of DOT for operating a motor vechicle on the street? Anyone want to take this one ? > ---------- > From: Brian Bucknam[SMTP:squid@theracetrack.com] > Sent: 5/10/1999 12:41 PM > To: Lees , John W > Subject: Re: Clark tank > > >I am in Portland, Or. > > We should get together and go riding sometime! > > > > need money for a new tire and I do not plan on riding long distances > > I was worried about the small tank when I got mine a year ago, but decided > to 'try living with it' instead of buying a new one right away. Besides, I > was broke after buying the bike anyway :-) > > But I've run out of gas twice now. Fortunately, I usually carry an extra > quart of gas (due to worrying about the small tank), so neither time was a > tragedy, altho the extra quart was almost not enough the first time. But > those were both times that I was doing long loops on dirt (and paved) roads. > When I just go out for single-track stuff, I never have a problem. I'm > usually beat after 30 miles! > > What kind of tire are you getting? I just bought an IRC GP110 rear tire on > recommendation from someone else on the list. I'm kind of disappointed > because it doesn't look nearly as 'aggressive' (read 'knobby-like') as I > thought it would be from that person's description and the small picture in > the catalog. I was pretty happy with the Pirelli MT-21 that was on before, > but riding on the pavement does wear it down fairly quickly. It has gone > about 1800 miles. Most of the TIME was spent on dirt, but I guess the > street miles go a lot faster... > > Anyway, don't know if any of that tire blabbing will be useful to you at > all... > > > > (Boeing does have a plant in Portland which most people do not know) > > I saw something in the news about it a few months ago -- otherwise I would > not have known. > > > I'd like to buy the Clark tank, assuming it is in good shape. How does $100 > sound? > > Brian > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Sperduto, Nick" <SperdutoN@dnb.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) RE: Clark tank Date: 11 May 1999 12:46:00 -0400 The metal tank is a funny thing. I have never failed inspection in NJ for my plastic tank. Also, the us doesn't allow any two stroke bikes anymore, but it's a state by state law. There is now law in NJ about two stroke motorcycles. Also Maryland and NY , I know guys with KDX 200's with dualsport kits and legal inspection stickers. The tank on my KTM RXC is plastic, but it is completely covered by Shrouds. It's one of those things no one knows anything about. I never understood the metal gas tank thing since you can get a plastic tank in a car. ---------- Cc: 'dr350@lists.xmission.com' Brian : Lets go riding sometime . I did post the list twice by mistake. I just got gp110 IRC tires and have not had a chance to try them. . . but they look Ok to me. I will ride on the street at least half the time . My tele # is 503-661-6878. $100 seems a little high how about 75.00, Ironically the old owner called me and left a messae about the tank, He just bought a '99 dr350es (lucky dog) He left a message and I will call Him soon. Isn't there a law in that requires a metal tank be used as part of DOT for operating a motor vechicle on the street? Anyone want to take this one ? > ---------- > From: Brian Bucknam[SMTP:squid@theracetrack.com] > Sent: 5/10/1999 12:41 PM > To: Lees , John W > Subject: Re: Clark tank > > >I am in Portland, Or. > > We should get together and go riding sometime! > > > > need money for a new tire and I do not plan on riding long distances > > I was worried about the small tank when I got mine a year ago, but decided > to 'try living with it' instead of buying a new one right away. Besides, I > was broke after buying the bike anyway :-) > > But I've run out of gas twice now. Fortunately, I usually carry an extra > quart of gas (due to worrying about the small tank), so neither time was a > tragedy, altho the extra quart was almost not enough the first time. But > those were both times that I was doing long loops on dirt (and paved) roads. > When I just go out for single-track stuff, I never have a problem. I'm > usually beat after 30 miles! > > What kind of tire are you getting? I just bought an IRC GP110 rear tire on > recommendation from someone else on the list. I'm kind of disappointed > because it doesn't look nearly as 'aggressive' (read 'knobby-like') as I > thought it would be from that person's description and the small picture in > the catalog. I was pretty happy with the Pirelli MT-21 that was on before, > but riding on the pavement does wear it down fairly quickly. It has gone > about 1800 miles. Most of the TIME was spent on dirt, but I guess the > street miles go a lot faster... > > Anyway, don't know if any of that tire blabbing will be useful to you at > all... > > > > (Boeing does have a plant in Portland which most people do not know) > > I saw something in the news about it a few months ago -- otherwise I would > not have known. > > > I'd like to buy the Clark tank, assuming it is in good shape. How does $100 > sound? > > Brian > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: RE: (dr350) RE: Clark tank Date: 11 May 1999 10:51:24 -0600 >>It's one of those things no one knows anything about. I never understood the metal gas tank thing since you can get a plastic tank in a car.<< I think it is more on how the tank is vented than what it is made of. Some BMW's have plastic tanks, but are vented through charcoal canisters and such. An Acerbis tank is vented directly off the cap which is a no-no on the left coast. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) RE: Clark tank Date: 11 May 1999 10:54:22 PDT Just thought I'd mention that I recently installed a Clark tank. I like it. Mounts right up, w/ following exception: You have to grind away about .5" of the upper-most cylinder fin, as the vacuum tube coming off the petcock makes a snug contact with the fin. I grimaced at doing this, but I know it cant hurt anything and its not noticable. If you let it touch like it does, I'm sure that heat & vibes would eventually screw up the petcock. Also, as the petcock sits lower and further in, I found it necessary to cut the choke nob down. You may not have to do this, but I did. There is a stout wire brace that connects the two halves of the tank between the frame. Nice solid brace. No regrets on the Clark....but I was a little irritated about the mods I had to make. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) T-vent carb mod Date: 11 May 1999 10:58:46 PDT I did this T-vent carb mod the other day. Anyone think that the vent hose that runs up (originally into frame) can just as easily be zip-tied further up/forward following the underside of the frame? Thats what I did, cause when I went to put it back into the frame, I realized that the tube is welded shut just about 2" in front of the top shock mount. I figured that if the vent hose was snug against that flat wall tube in there, it might not get as much free flow of air as it needs. Comments? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scot350@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Oil seal on clutch shaft Date: 11 May 1999 14:15:25 EDT Does anyone know the dimensions for the clutch actuating shaft seal?? I may already have one laying around, it looks suspiciously like a seal used in Kioritz weedeater engines....anything is appreciated! scot350@aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Tires? Date: 11 May 1999 16:53:55 EDT In a message dated 5/10/99 1:35:20 AM Pacific Daylight Time, TCrowe1234 writes: << Will anything bigger than a 120 fit in the rear >> A 130 MT21 is too large (and unnecessary) for a lower power 350cc class Japanese D/S. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) RE: Clark tank Date: 11 May 1999 18:19:02 -0700 Hmmm.... I did have to trim the upper cylinder fin, but the choke knob fits fine on my DR and the one my brother used to have. Doug B Tacoma, WA -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:54 AM Just thought I'd mention that I recently installed a Clark tank. I like it. Mounts right up, w/ following exception: You have to grind away about .5" of the upper-most cylinder fin, as the vacuum tube coming off the petcock makes a snug contact with the fin. I grimaced at doing this, but I know it cant hurt anything and its not noticable. If you let it touch like it does, I'm sure that heat & vibes would eventually screw up the petcock. Also, as the petcock sits lower and further in, I found it necessary to cut the choke nob down. You may not have to do this, but I did. There is a stout wire brace that connects the two halves of the tank between the frame. Nice solid brace. No regrets on the Clark....but I was a little irritated about the mods I had to make. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Model Year differences Date: 12 May 1999 00:53:36 -0400 (EDT) This is an apology to several of you who were confused about my carb post last week. The DRS mdel is the early street-legal kickstart model. The carb is similar but not identical to the DRSE model. Also related to model years, I have run as large as a 5.30 rear knobby with no problems but I believe the newer models have more travel. The increased travel with the Kouba link will not allow this big of a tire either. The metal tank stories amuse me, I put an Acerbis monster on mine when the DAMN gas cap lock got jammed. If anyone starts having difficulty with theirs it might not get any better. BTW the Acerbis is no fun either as some have mentioned, 2 petcocks running close to the engine & the tank sitting as low as the carb. Not having a vacuum petcock does help starting though. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Browning" <husky350@sprynet.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) 96 DR350S Initial Impressions Date: 12 May 1999 09:25:32 -0400 Thanks to everyone who replied with their tips for setting the bike up. I got a chance to ride it off-road on tougher trails last night, and the limitations of the suspension quickly became evident. It's like if you try you push the bike past a certain speed, it bites back. Twice the back end kicked out; I think at least once it was when in hit a rock that stuck out a few inches. The front felt like a pogo stick going through a whoops section. Setting the spring preload to its stiffest (all the way in) setting helped a little, but not much. Based on my two rides so far, I'm actually happy enough with the power stock - the suspension is the limiting factor. I just ordered the JX needle and spring, I'll be installing them next week. Thumper said no need to rejet unless I put on a different pipe - for now I'll just do the needle and spring. I've also got a 13 tooth front sprocket and some new tires on order. The absolute worst thing it does off-road is the rough running after charging through whoops or even a very bumpy section. If I don't keep the throttle wide open it stutters and stumbles horribly. Once I had it in neutral with the throttle wide open and it was barely revving past 4000 rpm, it kept surging as if it were running out of gas. I noticed a number of people using the T-Vents - does this help this condition? Also, it seemed that if I put the petcock on PRI then it didn't stumble - has anyone tried running the bike in this position through the rough stuff? Also, where do I find the list archives? Thanks, Keith Browning 96 DR350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) [archive]96 DR350S Initial Impressions Date: 12 May 1999 10:33:01 EDT On 5/12/99, husky350@sprynet.com writes: >Also, where do I find the list archives? Keith, you can thank Ajax for setting it up... ajax@xmission.com writes: > The web searchable archives are at: > > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350 > > The daily and downloadable archives are at > > http://www.xmission.com/pub/lists/dr350/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) 96 DR350S Initial Impressions Date: 12 May 1999 18:41:30 EDT In a message dated 5/12/99 9:20:34 AM Central Daylight Time, husky350@sprynet.com writes: << Twice the back end kicked out; I think at least once it was when in hit a rock that stuck out a few inches. The front felt like a pogo stick going through a whoops section. Setting the spring preload to its stiffest (all the way in) setting helped a little, but not much. >> Kieth, How much do you weigh? As I am a heavier rider (trim 250) I found that heavier front and rear springs worked wonders. I will also credit Norm's Kouba Links with keeping my back wheel where it belongs. Give him a call at (208) 939-3753. He is definitely a wizard with DR suspensions. Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "James Finnigan" <James.Finnigan@xilinx.com> Subject: (dr350) newbie... Date: 12 May 1999 15:33:59 -0700 Hey Folks, I'm picking up my 99 DR350SE on Thurs. After some thorough investigation using the web, the items needing immediate attention are (not in any order). 1. Rim Locks. Are there holes in the rim for adding a rim lock and if so doesn't the wheel need to be balanced? 2. Air box / filter. Remove the top of the airbox and use a unifilter or equiv. 3. Remove the kickstand switch? 4. Tires. OK for street but not for dirt. Any suggestions to these or other tips would be appreciated. Thx, james ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "James Finnigan" <James.Finnigan@xilinx.com> Subject: (dr350) newbie... Date: 12 May 1999 15:33:59 -0700 Hey Folks, I'm picking up my 99 DR350SE on Thurs. After some thorough investigation using the web, the items needing immediate attention are (not in any order). 1. Rim Locks. Are there holes in the rim for adding a rim lock and if so doesn't the wheel need to be balanced? 2. Air box / filter. Remove the top of the airbox and use a unifilter or equiv. 3. Remove the kickstand switch? 4. Tires. OK for street but not for dirt. Any suggestions to these or other tips would be appreciated. Thx, james ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) newbie Date: 12 May 1999 20:57:45 -0400 (EDT) James, Disconnect the clutch lever starter switch also, it can be a problem. The rims should have a rim lock hole in them and balancing is not necessary. You can try balancing/stopleak fliud if you are worried about it. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) newbie...(RIMLOCKS) Date: 12 May 1999 18:04:46 -0700 The wheels really ought to be balanced after adding rim locks. Holes will need to be drilled to add rimlocks. I'd like some input on rim locks too... My '94 has 10,500 miles of moderate riding, mostly off highway. I have never had a tire slip on the rim. Does the 350 really even have enough power to cause a tire to slip? My feeling is that with the type of riding I do, rimlocks aren't necessary. However, a person that rides hard/aggressive maybe should have rimlocks. Any more thoughts on this subject? Doug B Tacoma, WA -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 3:34 PM Hey Folks, I'm picking up my 99 DR350SE on Thurs. After some thorough investigation using the web, the items needing immediate attention are (not in any order). 1. Rim Locks. Are there holes in the rim for adding a rim lock and if so doesn't the wheel need to be balanced? 2. Air box / filter. Remove the top of the airbox and use a unifilter or equiv. 3. Remove the kickstand switch? 4. Tires. OK for street but not for dirt. Any suggestions to these or other tips would be appreciated. Thx, james ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) rimlock Date: 12 May 1999 21:10:04 -0400 (EDT) Doug, Do the newer DR models not have an extra hole for a rimlock? It would have a rubber grommet in it which can be removed for the lock. Just curious, Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug Bragg <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) newbie...(RIMLOCKS) Date: 12 May 1999 18:48:55 -0700 Correction - as to not steer anyone wrong, I need to add a correction to my last message about rimlock holes: My 94 does have a rimlock hole, there is a rubber grommet covering the hole opposite of the valve stem. Doug B Tacoma, WA http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 6:05 PM The wheels really ought to be balanced after adding rim locks. Holes will need to be drilled to add rimlocks. I'd like some input on rim locks too... My '94 has 10,500 miles of moderate riding, mostly off highway. I have never had a tire slip on the rim. Does the 350 really even have enough power to cause a tire to slip? My feeling is that with the type of riding I do, rimlocks aren't necessary. However, a person that rides hard/aggressive maybe should have rimlocks. Any more thoughts on this subject? Doug B Tacoma, WA -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 3:34 PM Hey Folks, I'm picking up my 99 DR350SE on Thurs. After some thorough investigation using the web, the items needing immediate attention are (not in any order). 1. Rim Locks. Are there holes in the rim for adding a rim lock and if so doesn't the wheel need to be balanced? 2. Air box / filter. Remove the top of the airbox and use a unifilter or equiv. 3. Remove the kickstand switch? 4. Tires. OK for street but not for dirt. Any suggestions to these or other tips would be appreciated. Thx, james ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Countershaft seal? Date: 12 May 1999 22:07:09 -0400 Hey, anyone out there know of a better way of getting a countershaft seal for my bike? I hate going to the dealer ($$$$.) what is the best mail order for that type equipment? I tried having the local bearing house and auto parts stores cross reference the NOK AP7722 F but I think it is a one off. Also does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap set of handlebars that have a better bend to them? Renthals are cool but you know how it is...($$$$) By the way I am seriously considering the upgrade to cartridge forks offered by White Bros. We have had this discussion before, I know, but has anyone done the upgrade to cartridge, not just emulators? is it easy? I am a pretty good mechanic, I just dont have a lot of tools right now. Thanks PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Countershaft seal? Date: 12 May 1999 19:51:13 -0700 Patrick, Midwest action cycle has the best prices and best turn around that I have found 800-343-9065. Jesse PATRICK ANDERSON wrote: > Hey, > anyone out there know of a better way of getting a countershaft seal for > my bike? I hate going to the dealer ($$$$.) what is the best mail order > for that type equipment? I tried having the local bearing house and auto > parts stores cross reference the NOK AP7722 F but I think it is a one > off. > Also does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap set of handlebars > that have a better bend to them? Renthals are cool but you know how it > is...($$$$) > By the way I am seriously considering the upgrade to cartridge forks > offered by White Bros. We have had this discussion before, I know, but > has anyone done the upgrade to cartridge, not just emulators? is it > easy? I am a pretty good mechanic, I just dont have a lot of tools > right now. > Thanks > PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Date: 12 May 1999 22:00:02 -0400 (EDT) I agree, Midwest Action Cycle (MAC) is great for stock parts. PJ, if you want a good bend in a steel bar you can get the CR high bend by Moose, I paid about $18 for them. The cheapo no name aluminum ones work OK but if you use barkbusters the ends will need to be drilled out as the tubing is thicker than other aluminum bars. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie... Date: 12 May 1999 22:34:29 -0700 Hi, Yes and NO, i do still have a 99 DRSE-X James Finnigan wrote: > Hey Folks, > I'm picking up my 99 DR350SE on Thurs. After some thorough investigation > using the web, the items needing immediate attention are (not in any order). > > 1. Rim Locks. Are there holes in the rim for adding a rim lock and if so > doesn't the wheel need to be balanced? 1a: yes there is a hole on the opposite side of the valve stem, mine is not covered, and my belive is that it is not nessesary to balance knoby or semi knoby tires. Rim locks are not only to prevent the tire to slip from too much power ( obviouly not on the DR ) but in a case of a flat it might save your a**. from loosing it. > > > 2. Air box / filter. Remove the top of the airbox and use a unifilter or > equiv. 2a: only removed the top of the air box if you buy the JX needle and spring from tumper racing , otherwise it will run like crap, we agreed on that , right Kurt? > > > 3. Remove the kickstand switch? 3A: i did not remove it but did disconected it ( a conector above the cylinder head toward the front frame, under the fuel thank , you need to close the circuit , meaning solder the to wire together in the way so it can be reversed if needed at later time, --- say you want to sell it and sleep good at night) > > > 4. Tires. OK for street but not for dirt. 4A: correcto mundo , dangerous in the dirt, esspecialy in loose dirt or sand , it is ok for light trail riding, ( at 30MPH), i will use the stock untill it wears down, than get a better one. you paid for this one already , right? > > > Any suggestions to these or other tips would be appreciated. additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, and once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. ------- and looks much cooler too. if you will not have passengers , get rid of the pass footpegs. i would leave the clutch switch alone , that could save your new bike from taking off if it was left in gear and try to start it. crank down that rear spring ( pre load adjuster) if you over 175 Lb. " T " of the carb vent hose. ( see previous posts or archive) All of these are just one mans opinion, i am sure not every body agrees with it , arguments are welcome George > > > Thx, > james ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 350 kick start Date: 12 May 1999 20:40:53 -0700 Nick, I checked in my factory manual under the 94" DRse section and it shows a picture of a spacer in place of the kick start idler and looks like the inner hole and threaded holes for the kick starter parts. I had to replace some gears and parts in this area a while back. I would guess $100.00 plus before your done. Jesse "Sperduto, Nick" wrote: > Did you get an answer about this ? > I asked arounf when I was going to buy a 99 and no one really knew. > > I was going to try and figure it out myself, but I never bought the bike. > I know the hole is stil in the cover and it looks like the electric start > works off of the other side of the bike. I was going to go into my shop and > they were going to let me look at the microfiche. I figured if the clutch > basket was the same on the non electric models. Then all that should have to > be done was to add the kickstarter mechanism. > > Good luck and let everyone know what you find out. > ---------- > From: JeepGeek2@aol.com > To: dr350@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr350) DR 350 kick start > Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:17PM > > I have a 96 electric start DR 350. > Has anyone tried to add or remove the electric start to add a Kick start > instead? > I was wondering incase the battery dies while out on a trail. you could > always kick start it back up. > or would the kick start free up some the DR's weight problem? > > Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Date: 12 May 1999 23:43:34 -0400 (EDT) You kids crack me up! Back when dinosaurs roamed the earth there were no clutch or brake switches, no front brake light switch or turn signals. These are for the most part your government at work . Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 13 May 1999 05:32:30 PDT I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. Mine is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. The bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully evaluate till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a "quiet-core" insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to share their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) headlight protection Date: 13 May 1999 05:40:48 PDT No...not condoms for your lights :) Any of you know of a good source for a metal headlight protector? The metal wire grid kind you see on some of the new big pickups/SUVs would be good to have on the DR. I'd like to avoid putting on a piece of plastic....I always got a light-reducing dirt/smeg build-up between the glass lens and the plexi cover thing on my sportbikes. Related....BajaDesigns sure has the ultimate off-road lighting rig. Somewhere, I saw that our good old DRs have some of the highest amount of juice coming out of their stock electical system....making it uneccesary to have a stator rewind to run better lights. Anybody done any such mods to their lights? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce P. Clapp" <Bruce_Clapp@Ovalstrapping.com> Subject: (dr350) Parts needed Date: 13 May 1999 16:49:19 -0700 I need to get a Kick Idle gear and the clutch basket for a 91 DR 350. The Kick Idle Gear is the one between the kick starter and the clutch basket. I guess there was a engineering change in these parts later that year or next and the new parts that the dealer gave me aren't quite right. It's almost as if there were mispackaged by Suzuki. Anyway, if anyone has an extra engine that they can part out, let me know - I would really appreciate it. Best Regards, Bruce Clapp, MCSE Information Systems Administrator 360-532-9101 360-532-1792 (fax) http://www.ovalstrapping.com J ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700 Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten the screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed the first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you notice this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between each disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten the screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this will determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if we can get you jetted right. Jesse Bryan Nolastname wrote: > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. Mine > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. The > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully evaluate > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a "quiet-core" > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to share > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) > > Bryan in Dallas > 95 DR350SE > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Parts needed Date: 13 May 1999 20:06:59 -0700 Bruce, Just what doesn't fit, gear has less,or more teeth than the one you are replacing. did they send the bushing with the gear when I ordered the one for the 91 I worked on had to reorder the bushing, get back to me maybe I can help Jesse "Bruce P. Clapp" wrote: > I need to get a Kick Idle gear and the clutch basket for a 91 DR 350. > The Kick Idle Gear is the one between the kick starter and the clutch > basket. I guess there was a engineering change in these parts later that > year or next and the new parts that the dealer gave me aren't quite > right. It's almost as if there were mispackaged by Suzuki. Anyway, if > anyone has an extra engine that they can part out, let me know - I would > really appreciate it. > > Best Regards, > > Bruce Clapp, MCSE > Information Systems Administrator > > 360-532-9101 > 360-532-1792 (fax) > http://www.ovalstrapping.com > J ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Re: Tuning MegaMax/SuperTrapp Date: 14 May 1999 00:02:02 -0400 (EDT) Washers work well on any disc type pipe. Opens up the discs, you can use these to tune also, you can open it up more without buying more discs. Make sure they are aluminum or they will rust. The ones used for countersunk wood screws work, the ridge will flatten out when you tighten up the disc assembly. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: (dr350) new to the group Date: 13 May 1999 23:56:25 EDT Hello all; Just signed up this evening to see what other DR350 owners are up to. Mine is a '93 350 S model (dirt only) I bought used 2 years ago and is essentially stock (Cycra brush guards, Maier frame protectors and a new set of Daystar fork boots). I've opened the airbox top and put in a TwinAir filter (I bought a UNI to compare with). Carb and exhaust are stock. Happy with the power output but would like to improve the suspenders; anybody out there using the Kouba link? What about the forks? I just changed the oil and I think it's too heavy; forks act like they got rocks in 'em. Preload and clickers are at lightest/softest settings. Put on a new set of Dunlop 756's; great tires. Anybody else have any feedback? Mike '93DR350S ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) headlight protection Date: 13 May 1999 22:36:26 -0600 Bryan Nolastname says: >....BajaDesigns sure has the ultimate off-road lighting rig. >Somewhere, I saw that our good old DRs have some of the highest amount of >juice coming out of their stock electical system....making it uneccesary to >have a stator rewind to run better lights. Here is what the nice people at Baja Designs say about the DRS's charging system: The 3-phase stator on the DRS puts out about 185 watts. This is enough to run most electric vests with a wattage range of probably no more than about 60 watts. The Eclipse vest we sell has a power consumption of 45 watts. I do not know what the draw is for the Widder electric vest. I've never had a problem with a dead battery running my vest along with stock headlight. I use a thermostat that automatically turns them on and off, thus allowing the battery and charging system to rejuvinate regularly. Baja designs seem to know quite a bit about the bike's electrical system and what it can and can't do. Call or email them for details. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave Schirf <dave.schirf@hrb.com> Subject: (dr350) dr350 parts numbers Date: 14 May 1999 07:34:09 -0400 I just joined the list so if this has been answered in an FAQ or something, point me to it. How can you figure out the parts numbers that you want to order without calling the dealer? The local dealer has microfiche images on his computer of all the parts with part numbers. Does anyone have anything like this? How about a text list? Dave '91 435 DR350S '94 350 DR350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 14 May 1999 05:08:10 PDT Hi Jesse- Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you really get flow thru all the disks. As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of airbox and installed a K&N filter. I also T'd the vent tube off the carb. Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax setup would be appreciated. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> >Reply-To: jesse@is-plus.net >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com> >CC: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700 > >Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten >the >screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed >the >first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you >notice >this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between >each >disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten >the >screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this >will >determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if >we >can get you jetted right. Jesse > >Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. >Mine > > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine > > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & > > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. > > > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. >The > > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully >evaluate > > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a >"quiet-core" > > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to >share > > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > 95 DR350SE > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) Moab Pre-Registration Date: 14 May 1999 06:56:39 -0600 Just a reminder to those planning on attending the Utah Get-Together in Moab, Utah, that there is a pre-registration form at http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page118.html. Pre-registration is $30.00 if I receive by 5/26. Registration at the event is $35.00. You can also pre-order the rally T-shirt on that form. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) Alcohol at Utah Get-Together Date: 14 May 1999 07:02:12 -0600 With all of the talk of folks bringing their favorite libations to the Utah Get-Together, I just want to remind everyone that alcoholic beverages are not allowed at Old City Park where the dinners will be hosted. This is a City of Moab ordinance. Thanks. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "David M2 Thompson" <dthomps1@rochester.rr.com> Subject: (dr350) Don't Forget Mill Hall, Pa D/S ride Date: 14 May 1999 10:06:36 -0400 June 5 & 6 Always well organized, with both easy & Super Hero alternates + the regular route. 12:00 Start 200 mi. + free Barbecue + Tool Pack for pre-registered entrants. I have registration form available for e-mail Dthomps1@Rochester.rr.com David M2 Thompson AMA# 504560 STOC# 840 Current STable 90 Suzuki DR350S 91 Honda ST1100 94 Honda VFR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: new to the group: Suspension? Date: 14 May 1999 07:02:37 -0700 Welcome aboard, Mike. There are several levels of suspension improvements; any would be better than the standard, stock condition. In this group there are those who have done simple to extensive mods. By answering the following questions, you should receive enough insight so as to make a sound decision for your situation: what type of riding (exploring/play, fast trails, enduros) do you do, how much $ do you want to spend, how do you/others rate your level of skill, and how much improvement do you have in mind? John >Please respond to TrailByker@aol.com >Hello all; >Just signed up this evening to see what other DR350 owners are up to. Mine is a '93 350 S model (dirt only) I bought used 2 years ago and is essentially stock (Cycra brush guards, Maier frame protectors and a new set of Daystar fork boots)....Happy with the power output but would like to improve the suspenders; anybody out there using the Kouba link? What about the forks? I just changed the oil and I think it's too heavy; forks act like they got rocks in 'em. Preload and clickers are at lightest/softest settings. >Put on a new set of Dunlop 756's; great tires. Anybody else have any feedback? >Mike '93DR350S ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: new to the group: Suspension? Date: 14 May 1999 08:39:20 -0600 >There are several levels of suspension improvements; any would be better than >the standard, stock condition. > >In this group there are those who have done simple to extensive mods. By >answering the following questions, you should receive enough insight so as to >make a sound decision for your situation: > >what type of riding (exploring/play, fast trails, enduros) do you do, how much $ >do you want to spend, how do you/others rate your level of skill, and how much >improvement do you have in mind? > >John John and others, a special word of thanks to you dr350 veterans for your patience in fielding these questions. We started the KLR list a year ago and that is just the kind of thing that will give the list a lasting presence. I'm not able to contribute as much because I'm a dr350 newbie myself. The way you are answering this question is excellent. In my mind I start to imagine a FAQ for the list or the new Idiot's website and eventually would like to detail and document 3 (or whatever) different upgrade paths for folks based on the honest answer to the questions you pose. Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Precision Concepts Date: 14 May 1999 08:40:27 -0600 >Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can >only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble >between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while >its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax >setup would be appreciated. Bryan, great to hear you are trying Precision. Would you detail your experiences for the list. What kind of prices did Bob quote you and what did the two of you decide for upgrades? Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Alcohol at Utah Get-Together Date: 14 May 1999 08:53:45 -0600 >With all of the talk of folks bringing their favorite libations to the Utah >Get-Together, I just want to remind everyone that alcoholic beverages are >not allowed at Old City Park where the dinners will be hosted. This is a >City of Moab ordinance. Thanks. > >Gino There is no such ordinance at site #1 Canyonlands RV Park where I will offer myself as libation tester for the event... Kurt (sacrifices in the name of science_ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bret Gergely" <bgergely@ili.net> Subject: (dr350) Problems DR350SE Date: 14 May 1999 15:43:17 -0400 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BE9E20.7C92F360 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the = mailing list it does not have cartridge forks. Does this mean that I = can not buy Race Tech fork and/or shock emulators? If I bought the = emulators would my shocks be equivelent to that of a off-road model? = Could I install the emulators myself? How bout the gold valve? What = about new springs and fluid? I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non = vacuum type carburetor? When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then = let the bike sit it starts to die out when I give it gas. Is this = because it is a vacuum carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or = is it becuase the idle is to high (which I doubt)? Would it be worth it = to me to buy a Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle adjustment screw on = this carb? Would it be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe larger or = would I never be able to get it jetted correctly? Just some thoughts = twirling around my head. My plan to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first = and work up to the major mods. I am still undecided on the big bore = kit. Any other thoughts would be appreciated? ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BE9E20.7C92F360 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> <FONT = color=3D#000000>I own a=20 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the mailing list it = does=20 not have cartridge forks. Does this mean that I can not buy Race = Tech fork=20 and/or shock emulators? If I bought the emulators would my shocks = be=20 equivelent to that of a off-road model? Could I install the = emulators=20 myself? How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and=20 fluid?</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT = color=3D#000000> I was=20 also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non vacuum type=20 carburetor? When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let the = bike sit=20 it starts to die out when I give it gas. Is this because it is a = vacuum=20 carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase the idle = is to=20 high (which I doubt)? Would it be worth it to me to buy a Dyno Jet = kit and=20 maybe a T handle adjustment screw on this carb? Would it be = possible to by=20 a 36mm carb or maybe larger or would I never be able to get it jetted=20 correctly? Just some thoughts twirling around my = head.</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT = color=3D#000000> My plan=20 to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first and work up = to the=20 major mods. I am still undecided on the big bore kit. Any = other=20 thoughts would be appreciated?</FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01BE9E20.7C92F360-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: (dr350) List growth... Date: 14 May 1999 14:16:25 -0600 The list is now at 131 members and growing....keep sharing your experiences... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Terrian <terrian@ibm.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) Problems DR350SE Date: 14 May 1999 14:23:58 -0600 Bret: On Friday, May 14, 1999 1:43 PM, Bret Gergely [SMTP:bgergely@ili.net] wrote: > I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the mailing list it does not have cartridge forks. Does this mean that I can not buy Race Tech fork and/or shock emulators? If I bought the emulators would my shocks be equivelent to that of a off-road model? Could I install the emulators myself? How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and fluid? No, it doesn't have cartridge forks, it has the "old" damper rod style forks. But you can buy Race Tech's cartridge emulators. Installation is not complicated. Unless you have a compressor and air impact wrench, you may have trouble getting the damper rod bolt out of the bottom of the fork tube, though. That's really the biggest potential problem you'll likely encounter. After that, all you really have to do is drill out (enlarge) a couple of the orifices in the damper rod, remove the old compression adjusters, and put everything back together, dropping the emulators into the fork tube before installing the spring. Race Tech did an excellent job of documenting the process in the installation instructions. By the way, if you decide to go the cartridge emulator route, I believe new springs are required. They're a good investment anyway if you weigh any more than 150 lbs or so. Will your forks be equivalent to the off-road model's? I haven't ridden the off-road model, so I have no basis for comparison. I can say, though, that the emulators and springs help a great deal. My bike handles big bumps so much better now and the front end just feels more stable. If you have the bucks, you can have the forks actually converted to cartridge forks. I think the cost is about $400. > I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non vacuum type carburetor? When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let the bike sit it starts to die out when I give it gas. Is this because it is a vacuum carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase the idle is to high (which I doubt)? Would it be worth it to me to buy a Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle adjustment screw on this carb? Would it be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe larger or would I never be able to get it jetted correctly? Just some thoughts twirling around my head. I think the T-handle pilot adjustment screw is "worth it" no matter what. Without it, it's virtually impossible to adjust the carb's low speed circuit without removing the carb from the bike. I also highly recommend the JX needle and spring from Thumper Racing. It's still a CV carb, but my bike runs so much better since I opened up the airbox and installed the JX fix. Mike T '96 DR350SE P.S. If you haven't already done it, get a good set of tires FIRST. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com> Subject: (dr350) help Date: 14 May 1999 17:01:33 -0400 can any one tell me if thumper racing are on the web stevie, scotland ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Problems DR350SE Date: 14 May 1999 17:06:46 -0700 --0__=ftnKIYoVETyJmKhnsIk0h7O3LLSMxdmgNoBsrahvvc8bVxhFTPDzKfv1 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline I'll let others post re: suspension, but will take the bigger bore and carb question. Let me first state that I have only ridden my own stock bore then shortly thereafter as a 441. The 385 appears to offer a significant boost, but any piston with added compression will do just that, even with the stock or near-stock bore. See http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/mods.html for a 385 vs. 441 write up. The Cycle Gear 400 seems like a good kit, but takes as much trouble (new sleeve, etc.) as the 441 & 435. they chose 400 because they felt that was about the most they were comfortable with without destroying the engine, but then they go ahead and offer a hotter cam, porting/flowing, & other hi-po mods., of which I did not care for on mine. Thumper's kit is a 435, and I have heard nothing but good reports. I have a White Bros. 441; it is a near perfect boost for the desert - my two-smoke buds say it roosts; I say it hooks up. Arguing aside, it is a bit of a handful in tight mountain trails because of the immediate, off-idle & low RPM boost, and generally more than enough for all but the most demanding thumper pilot. You are welcome to throw a leg over mine if you're ever in SoCal. I originally intended to do a 385 when a dealer offered me a real good price on the 441 instead. Hey, you only go around once, so why not go big? One last thing on engine work: do only as much work as your suspension can handle; do not go all out on the engine and spend little on your suspension, or go all out on the suspension and nothing to the engine. I did the former first and things got odd with the handling until I went all out on the suspension. As a general rule, spend an equal amount on both, and end up with a balanced, matched system. Carbs. Mine came with the 33mm Mikuni pumper. Most of the shops & individuals who seem to know anything agree the pumper is best; the CV: worst; the Quicksilver and FS Mikuni fall somewhere in between. A bigger diameter carb is not required if you go big bore; it would give more top end but mine has plenty of juice with the stock carb., and surprisingly a little less with a 36mm FS Mikuni; the instant squirt of gas when the throttle is tweaked makes a difference - velocities play into it but there's no sense going into that now. If $ is a concern then get the JX needle + spring + larger main jet (if required); this would be much cheaper than a new carb. If you are not satisfied, then you can buy a new carb. John "Bret Gergely" <bgergely@ili.net> on 05/14/99 12:43:17 PM Please respond to "Bret Gergely" <bgergely@ili.net> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) I own a 95 DR350SE and according to what has been written on the mailing list it does not have cartridge forks. Does this mean that I can not buy Race Tech fork and/or shock emulators? If I bought the emulators would my shocks be equivelent to that of a off-road model? Could I install the emulators myself? How bout the gold valve? What about new springs and fluid? I was also wondering if it would be worth it to me to buy a non vacuum type carburetor? When I ride hard for about an 1 hour and then let the bike sit it starts to die out when I give it gas. Is this because it is a vacuum carb or is it becuase the jetting is not right or is it becuase the idle is to high (which I doubt)? Would it be worth it to me to buy a Dyno Jet kit and maybe a T handle adjustment screw on this carb? Would it be possible to by a 36mm carb or maybe larger or would I never be able to get it jetted correctly? Just some thoughts twirling around my head. My plan to make my DR better is to start with the simple stuff first and work up to the major mods. I am still undecided on the big bore kit. Any other thoughts would be appreciated? --0__=ftnKIYoVETyJmKhnsIk0h7O3LLSMxdmgNoBsrahvvc8bVxhFTPDzKfv1 Content-type: text/html; name="att1.htm" Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="att1.htm" Content-transfer-encoding: base64 Content-Description: Internet HTML PCFET0NUWVBFIEhUTUwgUFVCTElDICItLy9XM0MvL0RURCBXMyBIVE1MLy9FTiI+DQo8SFRNTD4N CjxIRUFEPg0KDQo8TUVUQSBjb250ZW50PXRleHQvaHRtbDtjaGFyc2V0PWlzby04ODU5LTEgaHR0 cC1lcXVpdj1Db250ZW50LVR5cGU+DQo8TUVUQSBjb250ZW50PSciTVNIVE1MIDQuNzIuMzExMC43 IicgbmFtZT1HRU5FUkFUT1I+DQo8L0hFQUQ+DQo8Qk9EWSBiZ0NvbG9yPSNmZmZmZmY+DQo8RElW PjxGT05UIGNvbG9yPSMwMDAwMDAgc2l6ZT0yPiZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyA8Rk9OVCBjb2xv cj0jMDAwMDAwPkkgb3duIGEgDQo5NSBEUjM1MFNFIGFuZCBhY2NvcmRpbmcgdG8gd2hhdCBoYXMg YmVlbiB3cml0dGVuIG9uIHRoZSBtYWlsaW5nIGxpc3QgaXQgZG9lcyANCm5vdCBoYXZlIGNhcnRy aWRnZSBmb3Jrcy4mbmJzcDsgRG9lcyB0aGlzIG1lYW4gdGhhdCBJIGNhbiBub3QgYnV5IFJhY2Ug VGVjaCBmb3JrIA0KYW5kL29yIHNob2NrIGVtdWxhdG9ycz8mbmJzcDsgSWYgSSBib3VnaHQgdGhl IGVtdWxhdG9ycyB3b3VsZCBteSBzaG9ja3MgYmUgDQplcXVpdmVsZW50IHRvIHRoYXQgb2YgYSBv ZmYtcm9hZCBtb2RlbD8mbmJzcDsgQ291bGQgSSBpbnN0YWxsIHRoZSBlbXVsYXRvcnMgDQpteXNl bGY/Jm5ic3A7IEhvdyBib3V0IHRoZSBnb2xkIHZhbHZlPyBXaGF0IGFib3V0IG5ldyBzcHJpbmdz IGFuZCANCmZsdWlkPzwvRk9OVD48L0ZPTlQ+PC9ESVY+DQo8RElWPjxGT05UIGNvbG9yPSMwMDAw MDAgc2l6ZT0yPjxGT05UIGNvbG9yPSMwMDAwMDA+Jm5ic3A7Jm5ic3A7Jm5ic3A7IEkgd2FzIA0K YWxzbyB3b25kZXJpbmcgaWYgaXQgd291bGQgYmUgd29ydGggaXQgdG8gbWUgdG8gYnV5IGEgbm9u IHZhY3V1bSB0eXBlIA0KY2FyYnVyZXRvcj8mbmJzcDsgV2hlbiBJIHJpZGUgaGFyZCBmb3IgYWJv dXQgYW4gMSBob3VyIGFuZCB0aGVuIGxldCB0aGUgYmlrZSBzaXQgDQppdCBzdGFydHMgdG8gZGll IG91dCB3aGVuIEkgZ2l2ZSBpdCBnYXMuJm5ic3A7IElzIHRoaXMgYmVjYXVzZSBpdCBpcyBhIHZh Y3V1bSANCmNhcmIgb3IgaXMgaXQgYmVjdWFzZSB0aGUgamV0dGluZyBpcyBub3QgcmlnaHQgb3Ig aXMgaXQgYmVjdWFzZSB0aGUgaWRsZSBpcyB0byANCmhpZ2ggKHdoaWNoIEkgZG91YnQpPyZuYnNw OyBXb3VsZCBpdCBiZSB3b3J0aCBpdCB0byBtZSB0byBidXkgYSBEeW5vIEpldCBraXQgYW5kIA0K bWF5YmUgYSBUIGhhbmRsZSBhZGp1c3RtZW50IHNjcmV3IG9uIHRoaXMgY2FyYj8mbmJzcDsgV291 bGQgaXQgYmUgcG9zc2libGUgdG8gYnkgDQphIDM2bW0gY2FyYiBvciBtYXliZSBsYXJnZXIgb3Ig d291bGQgSSBuZXZlciBiZSBhYmxlIHRvIGdldCBpdCBqZXR0ZWQgDQpjb3JyZWN0bHk/Jm5ic3A7 IEp1c3Qgc29tZSB0aG91Z2h0cyB0d2lybGluZyBhcm91bmQgbXkgaGVhZC48L0ZPTlQ+PC9GT05U PjwvRElWPg0KPERJVj48Rk9OVCBjb2xvcj0jMDAwMDAwIHNpemU9Mj48Rk9OVCBjb2xvcj0jMDAw MDAwPiZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyBNeSBwbGFuIA0KdG8gbWFrZSBteSBEUiBiZXR0ZXIgaXMg dG8gc3RhcnQgd2l0aCB0aGUgc2ltcGxlIHN0dWZmIGZpcnN0IGFuZCB3b3JrIHVwIHRvIHRoZSAN Cm1ham9yIG1vZHMuJm5ic3A7IEkgYW0gc3RpbGwgdW5kZWNpZGVkIG9uIHRoZSBiaWcgYm9yZSBr aXQuJm5ic3A7IEFueSBvdGhlciANCnRob3VnaHRzIHdvdWxkIGJlIGFwcHJlY2lhdGVkPzwvRk9O VD48L0ZPTlQ+PC9ESVY+PC9CT0RZPjwvSFRNTD4NCg== --0__=ftnKIYoVETyJmKhnsIk0h7O3LLSMxdmgNoBsrahvvc8bVxhFTPDzKfv1-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: JeepGeek2@aol.com Subject: (dr350) sold my DR Date: 14 May 1999 23:13:15 EDT how can i stop getting this mailing list? i sold my DR and bought an ATV.. i m a trader to 2 wheels.. JeepGEEK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 14 May 1999 21:46:23 -0700 Bryan, did not know yours was an s model , my factory shop manual has two carbs listed under the 94 DRSER model one lists the main jet as #135 and the other at 127.5 probably calif. model, the pilot jets are 42.5 and 37.5 respectively. Since you have the airbox opened up I would go with a 140 it is always best to err on the rich side worst case you only foul a plug. Try this and ride it when you get your suspension parts back. and check your plug color it should be chocolate brown. It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load and hit the rev limiter it will pop and back fire when this happens and you can misinterpret this as a jetting problem, its better to ride it under load to get a better idea as to what is happening. Let me know how this works out. Jesse Bryan Nolastname wrote: > Hi Jesse- Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat > but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you > really get flow thru all the disks. > > As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right > now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot > adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of > airbox and installed a K&N filter. I also T'd the vent tube off the carb. > > Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can > only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble > between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while > its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax > setup would be appreciated. > > Bryan in Dallas > 95 DR350SE > > >From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> > >Reply-To: jesse@is-plus.net > >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com> > >CC: dr350@lists.xmission.com > >Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust > >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700 > > > >Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten > >the > >screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed > >the > >first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you > >notice > >this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between > >each > >disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten > >the > >screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this > >will > >determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if > >we > >can get you jetted right. Jesse > > > >Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > > > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. > >Mine > > > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine > > > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & > > > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. > > > > > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. > >The > > > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully > >evaluate > > > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a > >"quiet-core" > > > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to > >share > > > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) > > > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > > 95 DR350SE > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Craig Seal & Janice Brinkerhoff <csjb@bmi.net> Subject: (dr350) Field report on Dynojet Carb / T-handle mod & EZ Arm Clutch Date: 14 May 1999 22:19:18 -0700 I wanted to post a quick note sharing my experiences with the Dynojet carb kit, T-handle screw and EZ pull clutch arm when used on my almost new (and otherwise stock) '97 DR350S (dual-sport). Installed the Dynojet kit per the recommendations for stock bikes (126 main jet, down from 127.5 stock, new needle, 2.5 turns on the air/fuel screw.) I found the air/mixture worked better at 2 turns out, but the screw kept managing to lean itself out to the stock 1 3/4 turns. After removing the carberator for the fifth time, I elected to get the T-handle screw; good choice. The stock jetting had a huge hole off-idle to about 3K, getting better as the bike warmed up, but not perfect. With the jetting kit, everything is smooth, but I would be hard pressed to claim any gains in overall power. Would I do it again for $80? Maybe, but the money would go a long way toward better tires. I've experienced the carb. load up / impossible to start issue after riding/ dropping the bike off road, but haven't located the "how-to" on the T-vent modification. Suggestions are welcome. Generally, I'm disappointed with the poor quality of the carberator / throttle / clutch that came with the bike; for the money, Suzuki could have supplied better. One of these days, I might spring for an aftermarket carburator; any suggestions?? Regarding the EZ Pull Clutch Arm (for $20 from White Bros.), I'd pass. Installation was a pain, as I had to bash in an oil line bracket to create enough clearance for the arm to move forward (to disengage), yet in the end, the clutch pull effort hasn't improved much. The technical support I received from the clutch arm manufacturer was polite, though what do you do when the technician indicates that the part should fit as documented and it doesn't? Good luck to all of you, hope this information helps. - Craig ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) needle/spring/t-handle Date: 15 May 1999 06:25:38 -0400 just ordered my parts yesterday, love that mail order!! Anyway, I just have a few questions about the carb. The pilot air screw on the bottom of the carb, what exactly does that do? I am pretty sure it is an indirect way to meter fuel at low speeds, (i.e. fuel does not flow past the needle.) I dont know if the bike gets richer as you screw it in or out. Also, I kind of blindly ordered the spring, not knowing exactly what it does. Is it a lighter spring, allowing the slide to move up more easily, (less velocity through the carb, easier it goes up?) thanks Pat dr350es 94 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J. Carton" <jcarton@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie... Date: 15 May 1999 12:40:02 -0400 >additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, and >once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. >------- and looks much cooler too. > HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've tried both ways and am having no luck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie... Date: 15 May 1999 10:51:42 -0600 >>additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, >and >>once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. >>------- and looks much cooler too. >> > >HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not >start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've >tried both ways and am having no luck. make sure your stop switch isn't in the off position....I don't think the plate wires are related to the starting circuit.... Kurt > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie... Date: 15 May 1999 13:50:51 -0700 NO , do not connect the to taillight wires together or you will blow the fuse. If you disconected the side stand switch make sure you got the right conncetor disconected . I would start with the basic stuff. ignition on red engine stop switch make sure it is on the on position pull the clutch lever in make sure the bike is in netural it should start , if not check the folowing : make sure you did not blow the fuse when you removed the tail light. mine has a 20 amp fuse under the left rear fender. make sure you still have battery power( does the light comes on when you turn the ignition on? check the connectors under the left rear fender make sure yuo did not disconnect anything other than rear tail light. if all fails try tracing back what ever you disconected ( reconect ) let us know how it goes George J. Carton wrote: > >additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, > and > >once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. > >------- and looks much cooler too. > > > > HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not > start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've > tried both ways and am having no luck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J. Carton" <jcarton@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) newbie... Date: 15 May 1999 21:09:39 -0400 Thanks for the info. I had to break out the manual, (I know RTFM) but hey, just panicked, thought I really f-d up but after further inspection found the fuse-blown and wow they actually provided a spare. First ride was to the auto shop to buy a box of 5 20amp fuses for spares. Thanks for the help all. For my next fiasco-how do I disconnect the clutch cut-off switch? And if so, can I use the regular DR350 clutch lever (which the jokers at the parts dept ordered by mistake for me, which when I tried to return would not accept (out $30.00) anyways all help appreciated. Joe 94 DR 350SE -----Original Message----- Cc: James Finnigan <James.Finnigan@xilinx.com>; DR350 List <dr350@lists.xmission.com> >NO , do not connect the to taillight wires together or you will blow the fuse. >If you disconected the side stand switch make sure you got the right conncetor >disconected . > > >I would start with the basic stuff. > >ignition on >red engine stop switch make sure it is on the on position >pull the clutch lever in >make sure the bike is in netural >it should start , > >if not check the folowing : >make sure you did not blow the fuse when you removed the tail light. >mine has a 20 amp fuse under the left rear fender. >make sure you still have battery power( does the light comes on when you turn >the ignition on? >check the connectors under the left rear fender make sure yuo did not >disconnect anything other than rear tail light. > >if all fails try tracing back what ever you disconected ( reconect ) > >let us know how it goes > > >George > >J. Carton wrote: > >> >additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, >> and >> >once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. >> >------- and looks much cooler too. >> > >> >> HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not >> start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've >> tried both ways and am having no luck. > > -----Original Message----- Cc: James Finnigan <James.Finnigan@xilinx.com>; DR350 List <dr350@lists.xmission.com> >NO , do not connect the to taillight wires together or you will blow the fuse. >If you disconected the side stand switch make sure you got the right conncetor >disconected . > > >I would start with the basic stuff. > >ignition on >red engine stop switch make sure it is on the on position >pull the clutch lever in >make sure the bike is in netural >it should start , > >if not check the folowing : >make sure you did not blow the fuse when you removed the tail light. >mine has a 20 amp fuse under the left rear fender. >make sure you still have battery power( does the light comes on when you turn >the ignition on? >check the connectors under the left rear fender make sure yuo did not >disconnect anything other than rear tail light. > >if all fails try tracing back what ever you disconected ( reconect ) > >let us know how it goes > > >George > >J. Carton wrote: > >> >additional stuff: get rid of the licence plate extention, and plate light, >> and >> >once you get the plate mount it under the tail light , you will be fine. >> >------- and looks much cooler too. >> > >> >> HELP!! I just did the above procedure on my 94 DR350SE and now it will not >> start! What do I need to do to the plate light wires? Connect them? I've >> tried both ways and am having no luck. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) needle/spring/t-handle Date: 15 May 1999 20:37:44 -0700 Patrick, the Idle screw will affect the engine from idle to between 1/4 & 3/8 throttle and as a general rule since the adjustment screw is between the engine and the slide it richens the idle mixture asyou open it. On some carbs it is behind the slide then it leans the idle mixture asit is opened. hope this helps. Jesse PATRICK ANDERSON wrote: > just ordered my parts yesterday, love that mail order!! Anyway, I > just have a few questions about the carb. The pilot air screw on the > bottom of the carb, what exactly does that do? I am pretty sure it is > an indirect way to meter fuel at low speeds, (i.e. fuel does not flow > past the needle.) I dont know if the bike gets richer as you screw it > in or out. > Also, I kind of blindly ordered the spring, not knowing exactly what > it does. Is it a lighter spring, allowing the slide to move up more > easily, (less velocity through the carb, easier it goes up?) > thanks > Pat > dr350es 94 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Brake lever Date: 16 May 1999 01:21:18 -0400 (EDT) Joe, You are stuck with the stock brake lever like the rest of us dualsport model owners, many (including me) who have the wrong useless lever in the bottom of our tool box somewhere. As far as I know there are no aftermarket ones for the 'S" models either. Always give the year & model as a few other parts are also not interchangeable such as rear sprockets & spark plugs depending on the year. Screw the dealer, try Midwest Action Cycle, they have almost all stock Suzuki parts or can get them Cheaper too.. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Brake lever Date: 16 May 1999 07:34:48 -0600 ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 11:21 PM > Joe, > You are stuck with the stock brake lever like the rest of us dualsport > model owners, many (including me) who have the wrong useless lever in > the bottom of our tool box somewhere. > As far as I know there are no aftermarket ones for the 'S" models > either. Always give the year & model as a few other parts are also not > interchangeable such as rear sprockets & spark plugs depending on the > year. > Screw the dealer, try Midwest Action Cycle, they have almost all stock > Suzuki parts or can get them Cheaper too.. > Jim A. > > > I can get you aftermarket levers for your "S" models for $8 - $8.60 Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/ 435-259-7356 Fax 435-259-9148 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Precision Concepts Date: 16 May 1999 10:45:10 PDT Kurt et al- Bob Bell @ Precision Concepts in El Cajon, CA did my forks for $310. Included in the price was new, stiffer springs, Race Tech Cartridge Emulators, new dust & oil seals, heavier fluid, shipping & ins. Bob is also doing my rear shock for $170, which includes stiffer spring & his custom rework of the stock valve, fluid, shipping & ins. He said local DR riders are raving about (any of you on this list?) his rework of the stock DR shock. I should have everything back to me by end-o-week, and will post my impressions after a few rides. I will really be interested to know if I can tell almost $500 of difference in ride quality! Seems like alot of dough for something you cant even see! But hey, since I'm out of sportbikes now and the aquisition price for the DR was cheap, I dont mind throwing some $$ into it to make it the best it can be....hey! -I hope it doesnt run off & join the Army! Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >Bryan, great to hear you are trying Precision. Would you detail your >experiences for the list. >What kind of prices did Bob quote you and what did the two of you decide >for upgrades? > >Kurt > >From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> >To: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com>,<jesse@is-plus.net> > >Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I >can > >only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble > >between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K >while > >its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax > >setup would be appreciated. > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Some basic and a dumb question Date: 16 May 1999 19:30:38 EDT Okay, the dumb one first: What's the model designation letter for the off-road only model DR? I was under the impression it's classified as the "S" model with the "SE" being the dual-purpose version. After reading some posts, I'm not sure..... Okay the not so dumb one: What can be done to improve the front forks on this bike? I've got a '93 dirt only (S ?) model that I ride mostly as a play bike: trail riding and some high speed fire roads are generallly what I like to do. Given a choice I'd like the bike to be set up more for trails; looking for as compliant a front end as I can get but also to be able to handle the high speed blasts. I weigh in at 150 lbs, so I think the stock springs should be okay. I don't do "Big Air", Nac Nacs or anything approaching motocross (we are talking a DR here piloted by a 40-something dude who likes his day job). I'm not interested in spending a ton of money either. Sound impossible?......... I submit this for your general and specific comments and suggestions....thanx a lot for your collective help. Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) DR call letters Date: 16 May 1999 19:40:08 -0400 (EDT) Mike, I am sure I will be corrected if wrong but the dirt only is the DR350. The ealy kickstart dualsports are DR350S & the electric start is the DR350SE. Suzuki gives them other letters for each year, I don't keep up with those. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock spring for Kouba Link Date: 16 May 1999 20:05:36 -0400 (EDT) Does anyone know off-hand which companies have these springs currently in stock? Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) DR call letters Date: 16 May 1999 20:07:47 EDT Jim: Thanks for the scoop on the call letters; now that you've explained them they seem to make sense. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) silencer Date: 16 May 1999 21:35:05 -0400 (EDT) Anyone out there using a yoshimura silencer on their bike?What do think of this pipe opposed to the fmf megamax?Is there an aftermarket pipe(header) made for our bikes?Any suggestions for a best bang for the buck silencer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) DR Headpipes Date: 16 May 1999 22:56:44 -0400 (EDT) John, As far as headpipes go, Thumper Racing has a ceramic coated one, $150. Big Gun or FMF may have them also. I have one from White Bros. but not sure if it is still available, check their newest catalog. It looks just like stock, no ceramic, was $60. IMHO an oversize headpipe does not do very much, just look at the Dyno readings for different pipes for the XR400 in Dirt Rider (or Dirt Bike,not sure). With and without oversize headpipe about the same, torque & horsepower. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Some basic and a dumb question Date: 17 May 1999 01:19:43 EDT Bryan; Thanks for the info. I'd just gotten done looking at the Race Tech website when your e-mail showed up. You came up with the same spring rate I did; about a .430 is what I figured. I've heard some good stuff about the Kouba link; sounds like a real easy mod to make and cheap too. How difficult is it to install these emulators and what, if any, "special tools" did you need to accomplish the job? After reading my shop manual, it seems like the fork damper rod bolt would be the "tough nut" to crack in taking the forks apart. What weight of fork oil are you using and at what level do you set it. The Race-Tech fact sheet reccommends running a 15w oil which seems awfully heavy...... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) why no dr's? Date: 17 May 1999 06:57:56 -0400 OK, Some of you racer types, or former racer types might know this one. I went to the local hare scrambles this weekend at slades park in SE Virginia, which is a pretty cool place to ride by the way, anyway I was looking at the classes and saw 4 stroke A and B. I did not see one dr out there. Why? I think the bike would be fairly competetive with a few mods. Unless they are racing the yz400's and big xr's. Then they are kinda outclassed. Is this biked doomed to a life of traildom. I really dont mind, I love mine, and dont race it, but it is kinda unfortunate. Any racers out there want to sell there dr REALLY cheap? hehe Thanks PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Polyjohn@aol.com Subject: (dr350) European vacation?? Date: 17 May 1999 09:09:10 EDT Has anyone tried any of the European trips offered by Edelweiss, Lotus, Beach, etc.? What are the pros and cons of each? I am planning on taking a trip in September. Thanks in advance. John ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 17 May 1999 09:49:20 -0700 >>It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load and hit the rev limiter<< Do all DR's Have Rev limiters , I have a 93 s model and I have often wondered this ? > ---------- > From: jessekientz[SMTP:jesse@is-plus.net] > Reply To: jessekientz > Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 9:46 PM > To: Bryan Nolastname > Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust > > Bryan, did not know yours was an s model , my factory shop manual has two carbs > listed under the 94 DRSER model one lists the main jet as #135 and the other at > 127.5 probably calif. model, the pilot jets are 42.5 and 37.5 respectively. > Since you have the airbox opened up I would go with a 140 it is always best to > err on the rich side worst case you only foul a plug. Try this and ride it when > you get your suspension parts back. and check your plug color it should be > chocolate brown. It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load > and hit the rev limiter it will pop and back fire when this happens and you can > misinterpret this as a jetting problem, its better to ride it under load to get > a better idea as to what is happening. > Let me know how this works out. Jesse > Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > Hi Jesse- Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat > > but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you > > really get flow thru all the disks. > > > > As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right > > now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot > > adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of > > airbox and installed a K&N filter. I also T'd the vent tube off the carb. > > > > Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can > > only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble > > between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while > > its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax > > setup would be appreciated. > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > 95 DR350SE > > > > >From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> > > >Reply-To: jesse@is-plus.net > > >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com> > > >CC: dr350@lists.xmission.com > > >Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust > > >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700 > > > > > >Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten > > >the > > >screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed > > >the > > >first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you > > >notice > > >this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between > > >each > > >disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten > > >the > > >screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this > > >will > > >determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if > > >we > > >can get you jetted right. Jesse > > > > > >Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > > > > > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. > > >Mine > > > > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine > > > > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & > > > > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. > > > > > > > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. > > >The > > > > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully > > >evaluate > > > > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a > > >"quiet-core" > > > > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to > > >share > > > > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) > > > > > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > > > 95 DR350SE> > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Re: R-T emulators Date: 17 May 1999 17:29:44 EDT Bryan; Thanks again for your input; I may take you up on your offer to buy the springs. Please give me the particulars again; I cleaned out my mailbox and dropped your initial response to my questions. I never would've realized this bike is so popular; I wonder why more isn't written about it or hyped elsewhere. Our local Suzuki dealer seems to stock only the RM's with maybe one DR650SE on the floor. Heck, outside of oil filters and plugs, he doesn't even stock parts for the bike; a clutch lever is a special order item. Honda seems to have the lock on the medium to large, 4-stroke trail/enduro market or so it would seem by all the press they get. Let me know about the springs; if I decide to take you up on the offer, I guess we'll have to work out some kind of monetary transaction....... later Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: (dr350) To: John Gill Date: 17 May 1999 19:09:41 EDT John, I'd sure like to take you up on that offer to test ride your 441... i live in Montrose, maybe we could meet up at Texas Canyon after work as it's staying light out longer or a weekend morning....still working out all the handling bugs on my '91 DR and it would be great to hook up... Thanks Guy@ comobu@aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Mill Hall D/S Date: 17 May 1999 19:23:26 -0400 Hey, I am thinking about driving up to the mill hall dual sport in PA. I have room for another bike in my truck, I will leave from Southeast VA friday evening. My route will be through richmond VA and DC, then up to central PA. If I need to make any short detours, that would be OK. Just go ahead and email me if you are interested. PJ 94 se ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Some basic and a dumb question Date: 16 May 1999 17:48:02 -0600 the "S" is the dual-sport model the "SE" the electric start version that begins in '94. Suspension improvements in order of cost: 1. Kouba links 2. Revalving and custom spring 3. Emulators and revalving and custom spring 4. Cartridge conversion and custom spring 5. RMX fork swap... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) kouba links Date: 18 May 1999 15:01:21 -0400 (EDT) What are these so often talked of kouba links what do they do how much are they?thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock spring for Kouba Link Date: 18 May 1999 17:19:20 EDT In a message dated 5/16/99 7:06:01 PM Central Daylight Time, jadler@webtv.net writes: << Does anyone know off-hand which companies have these springs currently in stock? Jim A. >> White Brothers stocks Eiboch springs in all sizes. They even had an 8.1 kg for my bike. They are about $80.00. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) kouba links Date: 18 May 1999 17:28:37 EDT In a message dated 5/18/99 2:06:36 PM Central Daylight Time, MILLFAM@webtv.net writes: << What are these so often talked of kouba links what do they do how much are they?thanks >> Kouba Links are slightly longer shock links. They help keep your rear wheel from walking out all the time. They can also give you more rear travel or a lower seat height depending on how you set your preload.They are about $75.00 and worth every penny. Check out Norm's sight at <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/">suzukiDR/Kouba Link</A> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/. Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Joel Ashman" <ashman@sv650.com> Subject: (dr350) Front Brakes Date: 18 May 1999 23:27:23 -0400 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01BEA185.FBA17F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Howdy Ho All, =20 I just joined the List, and today, I performed the first half of my = annual DR service on my 92 350s. My bike sat unused for 6 months in a = garage, due to my work related travel. After changing the oil, filter = and sparkplug, the bike started on the 3rd kick. My bike always takes = 3-5 kicks to start anyways, compared to my friends '90 which starts on = 1st-2nd everytime. =20 My question is: After sitting for 6 months, the front brake has gone = soft, and it is not because of a brake fluid leak. Does this sound like = a simple brake line bleed? Does anyone have procedures on how to? The = manual does not address this. =20 Thanks, --Joel 92 350S 99 SV650 ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01BEA185.FBA17F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Howdy Ho All,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2> </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just joined the List, and today, I performed = the first=20 half of my annual DR service on my 92 350s. My bike sat unused for = 6=20 months in a garage, due to my work related travel. After changing = the oil,=20 filter and sparkplug, the bike started on the 3rd kick. My bike = always=20 takes 3-5 kicks to start anyways, compared to my friends '90 which = starts on=20 1st-2nd everytime. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>My question is: After sitting for 6 months, = the front=20 brake has gone soft, and it is not because of a brake fluid leak. = Does=20 this sound like a simple brake line bleed? Does anyone have = procedures on=20 how to? The manual does not address this. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>--Joel</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>92 350S</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>99 SV650</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01BEA185.FBA17F60-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Joel Ashman" <ashman@sv650.com> Subject: (dr350) FS Cycle Trailor Date: 18 May 1999 23:37:26 -0400 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BEA187.63263DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable For Sale: 3 Cycle bike trailer. 3 rails, no bed, but could easily be fitted with = a wooden bed. Hand Made by Mechanical Engineer. Very, Very Strong. Sand Blasted and = Painted Last Year (DR WHITE). Full Size Wheels and Tires (15" rims), = and Truck Leaf Springs. Lights. Titled and Licensed in VA. Tows = Great. 70+ MPH, with no problems, no weaving. Spare Rim (No Tire) No place to park in Home Association infested Northern Virginia $600 --Joel Joel Ashman ashman@erols.com ashman@sv650.com Sterling VA ------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BEA187.63263DA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>For Sale:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>3 Cycle bike trailer. 3 rails, no bed, but = could easily=20 be fitted with a wooden bed.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hand Made by Mechanical Engineer. Very, Very = Strong. =20 Sand Blasted and Painted Last Year (DR WHITE). Full Size Wheels = and Tires=20 (15" rims), and Truck Leaf Springs. Lights. Titled and = Licensed=20 in VA. Tows Great. 70+ MPH, with no problems, no = weaving. =20 Spare Rim (No Tire)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>No place to park in Home Association = infested=20 Northern Virginia</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT = size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>$600</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>--Joel</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Joel Ashman</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20 href=3D"mailto:ashman@erols.com">ashman@erols.com</A></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20 href=3D"mailto:ashman@sv650.com">ashman@sv650.com</A></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sterling VA</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BEA187.63263DA0-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Countershaft seal Date: 19 May 1999 06:30:24 -0400 I am going to be changing the countershaft seal on my dr soon, (when it comes in the mail.) is there any advice you can give me, I can see it now, "if you remove that seal, be careful because you could cause the countershaft to fall out, causing a little spring to pop out of its hole inside the case, causing massive engine damage if you even look at the bike, you should probably split the case its just safer." Thanks PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: ut00435@vght.volvo.com (Brian Stanley) Subject: (dr350) New to list Date: 19 May 1999 07:27:36 -0400 Good morning to everyone, I just joined the list this week. Only a month ago I picked up a '94 DR350 SE (bone stock). I plan to jet the carb. What other modifications do you folks recommend? Please include estimated price. What tires do you guys run? Brian Stanley, Christiansburg, VA '92 CR 250 '94 DR 350 SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Ensor <sensor@qis.net> Subject: (dr350) unsubscribe Date: 19 May 1999 22:22:52 -0400 unsubscribe ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Andrew Purdon <andrew.purdon@team.xtra.co.nz> Subject: (dr350) (no subject) Date: 20 May 1999 15:11:31 +1200 unsubscribe dr350-digest ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Brakes: bleeding brakes Date: 20 May 1999 01:46:41 EDT Joel; <My question is: After sitting for 6 months, the front brake has gone soft, and it is not because of a brake fluid leak. Does this sound like a simple brake line bleed?> If those are the original brake lines, then they probably need to be replaced. Over time the rubber will soften/break down (exposure to the elements and the brake fluid itsef) allowing the line(s) to expand slightly when you apply the brakes. I have a Clymer's manual for my '93 DR350 that suggests replacing the brake lines at about three year intervals. My front brake has gotten kinda mushy feeling and it's not because of air in the line; my next bike project awaits. < Does anyone have procedures on how to? The manual does not address this.> Bleeding brakes is pretty simple and, given the small amount of fluid required in the brake systems, you should flush the system as part of bleeding them. First, have some new fluid on hand (don't use old stuff). Find a jar and some rubber hose that'll fit snugly over the end of the bleeder screw. Fill the jar with a small amount of fluid; open the reservior and make sure it's full (and keep it full as you do the next steps). It helps if you can get someone to squeeze the brake lever or mash on the brake pedal. Put one end of the hose on the bleeder screw and submerge the other end into the fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder screw (loosen it) and squeeze or mash on the brake while watching for bubbles coming out the end of the submerged hose. You'll also see the old fluid squirt out because it will be a darker color than the new stuff. Keep doing this until no more bubles come out; make sure you keep the reservoir topped off. When you're satisfied there's no more bubbles and you've purged all the old fluid, give it one more squeeze and close up the bleeder screw (tighten). Top off the reservoir, close it up and you're done. Be careful not to get the brake fluid on painted surfaces 'cause it's a highly effective paint remover. <My bike always takes 3-5 kicks to start anyways, compared to my friends '90 which starts on 1st-2nd everytime.> ......aren't 4-strokes great? Mine averages like your's; about 3-5 kicks. Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) New to list Date: 20 May 1999 01:51:53 EDT Brian; One of the best is also THE cheapest, cut the top off the airbox; total cost $0.00. Get a TwinAir or UNI filter ( @ $20) Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Some basic and a dumb question Date: 20 May 1999 01:56:54 EDT Kurt: Thanks for the info on the model designations. I'm going to get the Kouba link and call up Race-Tech for a set of fork emulators. I fellow list subscriber has offered to sell me the set of required Race-Tech springs to complete the fork mod. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Some basic and a dumb question Date: 20 May 1999 02:51:15 -0600 >Thanks for the info on the model designations. I'm going to get the Kouba >link and call up Race-Tech for a set of fork emulators. I fellow list >subscriber has offered to sell me the set of required Race-Tech springs to >complete the fork mod. Good deal...I've been encouraging folks to try Precision Concepts (Race Tech Technicians) and Bob Bell on the basis of some repeatedly glowing comments from Eldon Carl who writes about his DR in Dual Sport News, Gino Pokluda's publication. Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se> Subject: (dr350) Non functioning silencer Date: 20 May 1999 14:01:17 +0200 I have a silencer which is very loud. I got it (It=B4s a "Utah")when I bough= t my used DR otherwise I would never have bought it, it falls into pieces twice a month! Does anyone of you have tips about how I can make it a bit more quiet and friendly to my neighbours?=20 Markus Skellefte=E5, Sweden ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) (non-DR) Attn: Stevie in Scotland Date: 20 May 1999 05:22:00 PDT Stevie, I printed out your address yesterday, then deleted your msg. Then I lost your address! Sorry- please send again. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Date: 20 May 1999 09:01:50 -0500 I am planning to start hauling my DR and need a trailer. What is an acceptable trailer for a reasonable price? Home Depot has trailers for $400. Is it better to look for a used trailer? How about those rack - type trailers that fit over a hitch - the ones similar to bicycle racks that fit on the back of a car. How do they work and can they be used with a large car like a Ford Tarus? Chuck Vokac Panama City, FL '92 DR350S ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: ut00435@vght.volvo.com (Brian Stanley) Subject: (dr350) trailer selection and cars Date: 20 May 1999 08:52:48 -0400 Chuck, I purchased a trailer last year for my '88 Monte Carlo (larger than your taurus). I would not recommend the rack type you are asking about. I think your suspension on would be seriously overloaded! I looked for a used trailer myself. Most of what was on the market was junk! People with good trailers tend not to get rid of them. Look for a trailer with large tires. the small tired ones spin the tires too fast at interstate speeds. You are forever seeing people with these types of trailers on the side of interstate with flats. I purchased my new trailer for about $525 (5x8) dump bed. 1.5 x 1.5 in tube steel frame 3500 pound axle, tires larger than my Monte Carlo's. A trailer will not depreciate nearly as fast as your bike. Overall, I have been very pleased with my trailer. I will carry three bikes and gear. My car has the 305 (5 liter) and a 4v carb. It has enough power to pull that load, but the transmission is a little bit on the weenie side. If your Taurus is not equiped with a transmission cooler, then I would consider installing one for towing. I hope you have the 3.8 liter in your car. I think that would perform better than the 3.0. You might check out what Motorcycle Consumer News had to say about trailers within the last few months. You can contact them at www.mcnews.com. Brian Stanley, '94 DR350SE '92 CR250 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: (dr350) RE: Date: 20 May 1999 08:10:00 -0700 I have purchased one of these receiver hitch dudads for my dr from BDI industries, it works great and I can haul ass at 85 mph down the road in my van and the motorcycle is transparent to me , no bouncing around much less cumbersome than a trailer. If you need more info glad to help. John Lees > ---------- > From: charles w vokac[SMTP:cvokac@juno.com] > Reply To: charles w vokac > Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 7:01 AM > To: dr350@lists.xmission.com > > I am planning to start hauling my DR and need a trailer. What is an > acceptable trailer for a reasonable price? Home Depot has trailers for > $400. Is it better to look for a used trailer? How about those rack - > type trailers that fit over a hitch - the ones similar to bicycle racks > that fit on the back of a car. How do they work and can they be used > with a large car like a Ford Tarus? > > Chuck Vokac > Panama City, FL > '92 DR350S > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Brakes: bleeding brakes Date: 20 May 1999 12:14:50 -0700 To this excellent description of the bleeding procedure, I would only add that because the front brake line is nearly vertical and the volume per squeeze is relatively low, it is possible for a bubble in the line to remain in the line through the bleeding procedure. If, after bleeding, you still feel that there could be air in the line, you might have to do something to make the line more horizontal during bleeding. One way to do this is to remove the front caliper from the bike, suspend it (like on a ladder) above the master cylinder, secure something about the same thickness as the rotor between the pads, and then perform the below procedure. FWIW, Bryan > < Does anyone have procedures on how to? The manual does not address this.> > > Bleeding brakes is pretty simple and, given the small amount of fluid > required in the brake systems, you should flush the system as part of > bleeding them. First, have some new fluid on hand (don't use old stuff). Find > a jar and some rubber hose that'll fit snugly over the end of the bleeder > screw. Fill the jar with a small amount of fluid; open the reservior and make > sure it's full (and keep it full as you do the next steps). It helps if you > can get someone to squeeze the brake lever or mash on the brake pedal. Put > one end of the hose on the bleeder screw and submerge the other end into the > fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder screw (loosen it) and squeeze or mash on > the brake while watching for bubbles coming out the end of the submerged > hose. You'll also see the old fluid squirt out because it will be a darker > color than the new stuff. Keep doing this until no more bubles come out; make > sure you keep the reservoir topped off. When you're satisfied there's no more > bubbles and you've purged all the old fluid, give it one more squeeze and > close up the bleeder screw (tighten). Top off the reservoir, close it up and > you're done. Be careful not to get the brake fluid on painted surfaces 'cause > it's a highly effective paint remover. > > <My bike always takes 3-5 kicks to start anyways, compared to my friends '90 > which starts on 1st-2nd everytime.> ......aren't 4-strokes great? Mine > averages like your's; about 3-5 kicks. > > Mike > '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) silencer Date: 20 May 1999 16:09:23 -0600 I have the Yoshimura. It was expensive. I had to go down a size or two when changing from a SuperTrapp, suggesting the air flow was better on the SuperTrapp (which I didn't like - it broke). The Yoshi is loud for my tastes, and, after several years, sounds like it is blowing out (or needs to be repacked, I suppose). It is not as loud, and sounds better than my neighbor's FMF, IMHO. Overall, I think the Yoshimura exhaust is of good quality, a bit too loud (if your riding area is noise sensitive), and offers good performance. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Brakes: bleeding brakes Date: 20 May 1999 18:28:10 EDT If your one of those people who looks for tasks to do so you can justify buying a new tool or gadget, I would suggest the Mighty-Vac brake bleeding kit. You hook the thing up per instructions and the Mighty-Vac will suction the old fluid and trapped air from the line. It's even more important to keep the reservoir topped with this gadget 'cause it can purge a lot of fluid. Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) Jx needle and spring experience on my 99 Date: 20 May 1999 21:54:21 -0500 Hi, Finally i got my JX needle and spring from thumper racing, along with a UNI filter. And here is what happened. Following the instruction ,which is just a blown up picture of the carb, and a hand written instruction : 1: replace spring here , 2 replace needle here.- .keep the spacer. that is it. There is not a word about opening up the air box, or changing any jets. So i just done that, replaced the spring and needle., and left everything stock. I tell you what , i did not feel any difference in throttle response or or else. I was kind of pissed off, $10 for a needle and $11 for a spring, $7 shipping. So i went ahead and opened up the air box, cause i believed that the JX set-up is to compensate for letting the engine suck in more air , easier. I did cut out the top square , from the back all the way just before the mounting bolts. reassembled , it had very good bottom up to 4500-5000 rpm, than it fell on its face , like a rev limiter kicked in. next day i called thumper, and was told to move the clip on the needle down to richen it up more. so i did move it step by step , 3 groves down . By now i am an expert of getting the fuel thank of in less than 2 minutes, to get to the plastic cover on the top of the carb. Any how now i am up to 5500-6000 rpm before it cuts off. needles to say i am more pissed off than ever. Next day thumper tells me that i need to change the main jet from a 127.5 to a 140 or 150 and try it. Excuse me , but don't they suppose to test this stuff ? or at least give better instruction. The guy at thumper say they only cut a 4X5' hole on the top. Well the biggest main jet i had at home was a 132.5 after installing it, i noticed a tremendous low and mid range power. I had to hold on tight, and i was able to do wheelies in second gear with gas only .----wow!!!!!!!! how ever cuts off at 6500-7000rpm. The throttle was very snappy off idle , which can be a problem in tight woods. I had lot of fun on that after noon with that 6500 rpm range, on grass i had to be careful so i don't get thrown of the bike , but on dirt, the tires just spun. Those stock tires are useless in dirt , a very bad limiting factor, i am afraid to turn sharp or the front tire slides out . very dangerous. What i am trying to say is that little engine has a potential to be powerful, but it is held back from the factory. Hopefully the bigger main jet will take care of that cutting off thing, and i get full power trough out the throttle range. Than i might just keep this bike. Ha-hah. How come others have different experience with JX needle and spring on DRSE-s, i thought these are the same carbs. It seems the size of the opening on the air box effects the performance from bike to bike. Any input would be appreciated . George 99DR350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) Tires ?? Date: 20 May 1999 22:29:17 -0500 Back, on the bad stock tires on the DRSE, I saw an ad for Mx tire in the magazine, it grabed my attention (price) Cheng-Sing front 21" $24 , rear $30-43 , depending on wide. Is this any good ? Why so cheap? and The pattern does not look to bad either. All these tires are listed as 3.00X 21 front . or 3.50 X18---5.30 X 18 for rear what is the correct size for front and rear in this mesureing system? I am sick of the stock tire. Piece of junk. Tanks for help on this matter. George 99DRSE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) tires & jetting Date: 21 May 1999 00:29:44 -0400 (EDT) George, Jetting is trial & error due to multiple factors, outfits like Thumper will only get you in the ballpark (hopefully). Plan on buying several main jets like a 135 & 140. The carb parts you added do just what you described, help off-idle response, ie clutchless throttle wheelies. The top end increase will not be that dramatic, you are just too lean right now on top end with the cutoff airbox. Chen Shin 755 tires are full knobbys, that are for offroad use only, not DOT approved. I use them, they work well for trail use, the 5.30 size is a monster but will fit but the 4.60 is what most people would suggest. For aggressive DOT tires look at the Kenda Trackmaster, they have the Dunlop 752 pattern. Others like Pirelli tires but they are more expensive. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Date: 21 May 1999 00:52:49 -0400 (EDT) George ( & others), If you really want to have fun with your new found throttle response ( & still have streetabiity) on your SE model go to the original DRS gearing of 14 front & 43 rear. IMHO this is great compromise gearing, I don't know why Suzuki made it higher. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Charlie Vincent <Charlie@mail.j-e-morgan.com> Subject: (dr350) tires & jetting -Reply Date: 21 May 1999 07:35:19 -0400 Ok, I've been watching these mods threads for awhile, but this post has really gotten my attention. Some good power increase for the cost of a few jets and so tunning time. I'll bite. I have a 90 DRSE 350 completely stock. After I cut off the top of the air box, what aftermarket filter should I buy and where can I get it? Next, what jets and other hardware should I buy and how can I go about tunning these babies. I'm mechanically inclined, but have no experience with jetting at all. Charlie >>> James Adler <jadler@webtv.net> 05/21/99 12:29am >>> George, Jetting is trial & error due to multiple factors, outfits like Thumper will only get you in the ballpark (hopefully). Plan on buying several main jets like a 135 & 140. The carb parts you added do just what you described, help off-idle response, ie clutchless throttle wheelies. The top end increase will not be that dramatic, you are just too lean right now on top end with the cutoff airbox. Chen Shin 755 tires are full knobbys, that are for offroad use only, not DOT approved. I use them, they work well for trail use, the 5.30 size is a monster but will fit but the 4.60 is what most people would suggest. For aggressive DOT tires look at the Kenda Trackmaster, they have the Dunlop 752 pattern. Others like Pirelli tires but they are more expensive. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Browning" <husky350@sprynet.com> Subject: (dr350) Carb Questions Date: 21 May 1999 08:15:52 -0400 Hello everyone. Two days ago I got the Thumper JX needle and spring and installed. Easy enough, and they look different enough from the stock parts, but I couldn't tell any difference in performance. Then I remember seeing that the needle and spring are necessary to make it run right after you open up the airbox. So yesterday I cut off the top of the lid to Thumper specs (make the hole 4 inches wide, 3 inches long, with the front opening of the hole about 1 inch behind the airbox mounting tabs) and put in a White Power filter. A quick ride around the neighborhood, and again I couldn't really see a difference. Maybe I just didn't ride it enough or under the right conditions, but the only the I noticed different was the sound of air now rushing into the airbox. Finally, I put on a 13 tooth front sprocket - cha-ching! Second gear wheelies are now possible without even touching the clutch. I was also pleasantly surprised to find that this gearing works better for round town riding (I haven't had it off-road since the change). I found that most of the time the bike was in the 5-6k rpm range, right in the meat of the power, whereas before it was quite a bit lower and had to be revved a little to get into the power band. Now it tends to stay in that range. Pleasant surprise #2 - I have one extra gear to play with! Sure it had six gears before, but 6th was pretty much useless. Now I can actually accelerate in 6th and rev it fairly high - I got it up to a little over 75mph, which is about as fast as it wanted to go before the gearing change. I'll still but the 15 tooth back on if I plan to ride on the highway a lot, but for around town and short highway jaunts, this lower gearing makes a lot more sense. But all is not well with the changes. My previously asthmatic motorcycle is now hyperventilating - the jetting is seriously lean now. The biggest problem area is just off idle to maybe 1/4 throttle. If you try and hold a steady throttle at that range then it surges quite a bit. It did so before, but almost imperceptibly. Opening the throttle a little more the surging goes away, but it still backfires, a little more even, when I let off the throttle and coast. Finally, when holding the throttle wide open and accelerating, it seems that the power seriously drops off beginning around 8000 rpm. It may be that this characteristic of the power band, and I didn't notice before because it would always be so much lower in the rev range. Is that the case or could it be related to the jetting? So now I have a basically stock 96 DR350SES with an opened up airbox and thumper JX needle and spring. What should I try to fix the jetting woes? The jetting is stock - should I go larger on both the pilot and the main? Also, what about the position of the clip on the Thumper needle - I left it where it was when it was shipped, which is in the same position as the stock; second up from the bottom I think. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Keith Browning Pittsburgh, PA (but hopefully moving soon!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: SMRGEO@aol.com Subject: (dr350) D/S KIT FOR SALE Date: 22 May 1999 01:32:00 EDT FOR SALE- Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit for DR350. Still in original box w/ instructions. Decided to keep my bike in the dirt! Paid $400+.....Sell for $300. Thanks. George in NW Indiana ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam <squid@theracetrack.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: Tire sizes and brands?? Date: 21 May 1999 22:41:39 -0700 George says: >I am sick of the stock tire. Piece of junk. Then George asks: >...I saw an ad for Mx tire in the >magazine, it grabed my attention (price) Cheng-Sing front 21" $24 , >rear $30-43 , depending on wide. Is this any good ? Why so cheap? and >The pattern does not look to bad either. I don't know just why they are so cheap, but I have never tried Cheng-Shins because of this vague idea that just maybe you do "get what you pay for"... Try 'em out and let us all know if they suck! >All these tires are listed as 3.00X 21 front . or 3.50 X18---5.30 X 18 >for rear what is the correct size for front and rear in this mesureing >system? Front metric size: 90/90x21 == inch size ~3.25 x 21 Rear metric size: 110/90x18 == inch size ~4.25 x 18 ...by my calculations, anyway. Since you can run a 120/90 on the rear, you can probably go as high as 4.50 x 18. I can't promise anything, though. I've only used the metric-sized ones. Safer to go with 4.25. I can personally recommend the Pirelli MT-21's. Of course, they cost about twice as much as the Cheng-Shins. Good luck with the jetting -- sounds like you're getting close! Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich <scotta@midfw.sr.hp.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: Gearing for a DRS Date: 22 May 1999 9:31:18 PDT > George ( & others), > If you really want to have fun with your new found throttle response ( & > still have streetabiity) on your SE model go to the original DRS gearing > of 14 front & 43 rear. IMHO this is great compromise gearing, I don't > know why Suzuki made it higher. The stock gearing on my '98 DRSE was 15/41. Too low for me. It couldn't pull redline in sixth. I've gone to 14/41, but I think I'm going to go 14/45 (if I can find a rear sprocket). At 14/41 the top end speed is still far more than I ever want to go. -- Scott Aldrich / UN*X System Administrator ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) master link and more! Date: 22 May 1999 13:10:44 EDT Hello all I've been reading the list since the begining, but didn't post much cuz I don't have My license yet. anyway I've been collecting stuff for road side repairs. tire levers,co2 ,patches. I'm going to install a master link into the original chain, no big deal. Now come the questions 1.how do I open the master link on the trail? 2.Can u keep using the same link over and over? on, off, on, off? (here are some more questions) 3.On a '93 dr350s when valve clearances get off go they get bigger or smaller? 'bryant in brooklyn ny _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools" Date: 22 May 1999 13:16:18 EDT how do you guys like to carry your tools? I'm thinking a "dual sport fender bag" by moose and a tool roll that way I can have my spare tube and other things in the same bag, off my body. How do you people do it? bryant _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "dan kouba" <dlkouba@eudoramail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools" Date: 22 May 1999 11:05:09 -0700 My brother and father carry their tools on a CR500. What? Yep, their brother-in-law/family friend is constantly told how much power his CR500 has and that it has ample manly oomph to carry extra weight, such as tools and gas. So, my Dad on his already-heavy DR435 and my brother on his KX500 get to ride toolfree because their buddy's ego is too big to realize that he's carrying about 14 pounds of extra gas and 10 pounds of tools. --- On Sat, 22 May 1999 13:16:18 Bryant Wang wrote: >how do you guys like to carry your tools? >I'm thinking a "dual sport fender bag" by moose and a tool roll that way I >can have my spare tube and other things in the same bag, off my body. > >How do you people do it? >bryant > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) master link and more! Date: 22 May 1999 16:33:58 EDT Bryant; Unless the previous owner put one in, the chain does not have a master link. The o-ring chain shouldn't give you any problems on the trail or the street (if you've got a dual purpose bike like it seems you do). There's a specific way to remove the chain should you ever have to, but my '93 DR350 has the original factory chain and sprockets and there's still a lot of life left in them. As far as valve clearances go it's hard to say; in the end what does it matter how they get out of adjustment? The most important thing is to keep them in adjustment 'cause that's what'll kill a 4-stroke engine if they're neglected; the valve clearances shrink too much, the valve does not come into complete contact with the seat and as such does not cool sufficiently with the result being burned valves. Could be the valves stretch as they wear (making the clearances shrink) or it could be that the valve seat gets pounded (which would also make the clearances shrink) Not knowing the exact thermal characteristics of the engine as it gets hot; I would venture to guess that the valve clearances actually increase slightly as the engine warms due to expansion of the aluminum cylinder and head. Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) non dr"how2carry your tools" Date: 22 May 1999 16:38:58 EDT Hey Bryant; I use a fanny pack made by Moose. Since my DR is off road only, I'm a little leary about attatching stuff that can fall off or be ripped off by a trailside branch. The fanny pack allows me to carry some basic tools, a spare plug and whatever else. I really don't notice it at all once I hit the trails.... Mike '93DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: dave bloom <dbloom@inow.com> Subject: (dr350) Front Tires, suspension, and carbs Date: 22 May 1999 13:57:41 -0700 I love my '91 DR 350s but note three problems. Note I am not all that familiar with bikes and am trying to learn as quick as possible. 1) My front tire does not track well. Most of my spills are due to going around a dirt corner and the tire coming loose unexpectedly. I suspect front tire or suspension. - What tires have you all found work well for the front? I have a knobby for the back. - My front suspension is set for "5" which I think is quite soft. Could this be the problem? Why? 2) Speaking of suspension, what is that gizmo that seems to feed air into the shock for? I took it to the filling station and pumped it up to the max the station had and it made no difference at all. The reason for my trying this was that I took my 120 lb son on the back and smelled burned rubber. I couldn't find the problem until I noticed the knobs on the side of the back tire were smoking. With him on it the back end went low enough to start rubbing on the muffler (a Supertrapp). I had to laugh a little. We now use our 250 NX Honda for dual riding. Not nearly as much fun. How can I beef up the back? The bike is pretty high for me now. I am 5'10" and 170 lbs. 3) My bike takes 2-15 pumps to start when cold. I have tried everything including taking it to the shop and they tried every jet they could think of with limited success. I have also tried every combination of choke, throttle, and compression release with every number of prekicks from 0 to 20. What a pain. It starts right away when hot but leave it 20-30 minutes and forget it. 20-30 kicks might start it. The bike was modified when I bought it and has a Mukisi (Makuso?) anyway some kind of carb on it that sounds like that. Could that be the problem? What kind of non-standard carbs are in use out there? Are these kind of starting problems typical in this bike or typical with one that has been modified such as mine? I kinda hate to pay good money to go back to stock. Help. Dave Bloom Los Gatos, Ca DRS350 NX250 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Date: 22 May 1999 20:12:23 -0400 (EDT) Scott, One reason I mentioned the 14/43 gearing is the 43 hould be more readily available as it was stock for a few years. Bryant, If you are a cheapskate like me go to WalMart and pick out a camera bag for about $10 and put a plastic or metal base in it, bolt it on the fender. It needs a sturdy base or it will be gone in one ride. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) master link and more! Date: 22 May 1999 23:25:35 -0500 Hi, As far as the chain goes. The factory bike has a one piece NO masterlink chain, if it has been changed , it most likely has a masterlink , which can be opened up with a screwdriver and put back just as easy. It is like a "C" clip. one note: it must be instaled in the correct way. On the valve issue. The valve clearance decreases(gets smaller) as the engine warms up. and so as when it wears out over the years. Do to cam to rocker arm contact , as the cam rolls under the rocker arm , it slowly acts as a griding whell over the years. And as the cam lobe or the rocker arm wears, that where the clearence comes in. Valve and seat does not wear nearly as fast as cam& rocker. Unless the valve actuly burns out. This experience is based on 12 years of valve adjustment on cars with same cam & valve configuration. (Japanise cars) George Bryant Wang wrote: > Hello all > I've been reading the list since the begining, but didn't post much cuz I > don't have My license yet. > > anyway I've been collecting stuff for road side repairs. tire levers,co2 > ,patches. I'm going to install a master link into the original chain, no big > deal. Now come the questions > > 1.how do I open the master link on the trail? > 2.Can u keep using the same link over and over? on, off, on, off? > > (here are some more questions) > 3.On a '93 dr350s when valve clearances get off go they get bigger or > smaller? > > 'bryant in brooklyn ny > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Tires, suspension, and carbs Date: 22 May 1999 23:33:45 -0500 Hi , I knoby tire on the front should hold the beast. As far as the valve on the (rear?) shock , is to fill it with nitrogen ( dealer should have it) and around 300Psi. , a gas station probably has 120Psi. of AIR. that is why it did make no diference. George dave bloom wrote: > I love my '91 DR 350s but note three problems. Note I am not all that > familiar with bikes and am trying to learn as quick as possible. > > 1) My front tire does not track well. Most of my spills are due to > going around a dirt corner and the tire coming loose unexpectedly. I > suspect front tire or suspension. > - What tires have you all found work well for the front? I have a > knobby for the back. > - My front suspension is set for "5" which I think is quite soft. Could > this be the problem? Why? > > 2) Speaking of suspension, what is that gizmo that seems to feed air > into the shock for? I took it to the filling station and pumped it up > to the max the station had and it made no difference at all. The reason > for my trying this was that I took my 120 lb son on the back and smelled > burned rubber. I couldn't find the problem until I noticed the knobs on > the side of the back tire were smoking. With him on it the back end went > low enough to start rubbing on the muffler (a Supertrapp). I had to > laugh a little. We now use our 250 NX Honda for dual riding. Not > nearly as much fun. How can I beef up the back? The bike is pretty > high for me now. I am 5'10" and 170 lbs. > > 3) My bike takes 2-15 pumps to start when cold. I have tried everything > including taking it to the shop and they tried every jet they could > think of with limited success. I have also tried every combination of > choke, throttle, and compression release with every number of prekicks > from 0 to 20. What a pain. It starts right away when hot but leave it > 20-30 minutes and forget it. 20-30 kicks might start it. The bike was > modified when I bought it and has a Mukisi (Makuso?) anyway some kind of > carb on it that sounds like that. Could that be the problem? What kind > of non-standard carbs are in use out there? Are these kind of starting > problems typical in this bike or typical with one that has been modified > such as mine? I kinda hate to pay good money to go back to stock. > Help. > > Dave Bloom > Los Gatos, Ca > DRS350 NX250 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) front exhaust pipe , what a joke. Date: 23 May 1999 00:00:04 -0500 Hi, First i like to say that, i have to give credit for the guy with the Dremal- tool, who posted about this earlier. The front pipe is definetly some sort of stainles steel , magnet will not stick to it. and it is very hard material. after removing the front exhaust pipe,(3 bolts), i found the engine side where Suzuki welded a flange to the pipe, those dick at the factory nearly welded it shut.Well not exectly but there is a good 1/8" beed of weld around. It did take me abouth 15-20 min to grind the beed of weld off , with a diegrinder and a carbide bit. It must flow a lot better since it got noticably louder at the back of the muffler (stock). George. PS: i will post the JX jetting tomorow, i have to get all mods. together . Exuse my spelling ,but extremly tired for the day. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) thanx 4 valve info Date: 23 May 1999 01:07:48 EDT >On the valve issue. >The valve clearance decreases(gets smaller) as the engine warms up. and so >as when it wears out over the years. Do to cam to rocker arm contact , as >the cam >rolls under the rocker arm , it slowly acts as a griding whell over the >years. >And as the cam lobe or the rocker arm wears, that where the clearence comes >in. Valve and seat does not wear nearly as fast as cam& rocker. Unless the >valve actuly burns out. >This experience is based on 12 years of valve adjustment on cars with same >cam &valve configuration. (Japanise cars) Thanks George this is what I found after doing the first valve adjustment on my newly bought '93 drs. The valve clearances were way small. thanks for your input. bryant _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) install master link or leave it endless? Date: 23 May 1999 01:11:39 EDT Hey my chain is stock,so it is endless do you think i should install a master link? I'm not sure if I should anymore. Bryant _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) chain Date: 23 May 1999 01:18:37 -0400 (EDT) Bryant, Don't worry about your chain until it is worn out. Then put on a new o-ring chain with master link. You will need a chain breaker or a portable grinder ( whiz-wheel ) to cut the worn out stocker off. JA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Ignition timing Date: 23 May 1999 07:10:20 -0400 Ok, Ithink the previous owner of my bike messed with the timing, how do I go about setting it, and what is the spec? Thanks a lot PJ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: (dr350) Timing thing.. Date: 23 May 1999 08:18:34 -0400 Well, after a close examination of the plug, I saw evidence of slight detonation. It might have just been dirt particles or tiny carbon deposits, but there were a few speckles on the insulator, indicating detonation. I have been screwing with the carb lately, (got my jx needle and spring.) I actually think it still is running a bit lean. Since I am writing, I will say I am apprehensive about cutting up the air box, I dont want to have the bike make more noise. Is the noise that bad after you cut the top off the box? I was thinking I could buy another one of those rubber air horns that is in the stock air box already, and install it in front of the other one.... I dont know, I just dont want to turn the bike into an annoying loudmouth. I have had my experience with Supertrapp already... It sits nicely in my closet, collecting dust. PJ 94 se ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) install master link or leave it endless? Date: 23 May 1999 09:39:21 -0500 Hi, Well, it depends, what shape its in, some say it could last even 5 or more years. My experience with chain is not to good, my zx-11(kawa) 2 chain put on, so that 3 sets of chain on 4 years, including the factory, when it was new. I did lube it religiously every 200 mile, with the correct "O-ring" type lube and it went south any way. Was easy to tell when it was time , the bike acted as it had an oval sprocket on the back. It has a funny feeling like some one would pull or tug on the bike with every tire revolution. Also an other way to tell you spin the back tire , watch the chain between the front and rear sprocket in the middle where it hangs, as you spin it the chain goes up and down , or say, you try to set the chain slack and , say it is 1 inch at one point and 1 1/2 inch after you turn a tire once around. It is a definitely a worn chain. Also inspect the sprockets when you change the chain, it could be worn as well. but if it is fine leave it alone do not even mass with it. A master link is the weakest point of the chain most likely that's where it will break( if it does) As far as care: Kerosene is an excellent cleaner to clean dirt of and it does lubricates the rubber "O"-ring. than apply a good quality chain lube. George. Bryant Wang wrote: > Hey > > my chain is stock,so it is endless do you think i should install a master > link? I'm not sure if I should anymore. > > Bryant > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Timing thing.. Date: 23 May 1999 09:44:45 -0500 Hi, Yes , once you cut the air box , it will be extremly loudmouht, with the stock exhaust, the air intake will be louder than the exhaust , at least where the rider sits.And that is a fact. I no longer hear the exhaust on my bike. George. PATRICK ANDERSON wrote: > Well, after a close examination of the plug, I saw evidence of > slight detonation. It might have just been dirt particles or tiny > carbon deposits, but there were a few speckles on the insulator, > indicating detonation. I have been screwing with the carb lately, (got > my jx needle and spring.) I actually think it still is running a bit > lean. > Since I am writing, I will say I am apprehensive about cutting up > the air box, I dont want to have the bike make more noise. Is the > noise that bad after you cut the top off the box? I was thinking I > could buy another one of those rubber air horns that is in the stock air > box already, and install it in front of the other one.... I dont know, > I just dont want to turn the bike into an annoying loudmouth. I have > had my experience with Supertrapp already... It sits nicely in my > closet, collecting dust. > PJ > 94 se ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 23 May 1999 09:30:23 -0700 Yes, 90 model 8500 rpm 91 up 9000 rpm Jesse "Lees, John W" wrote: > >>It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load > and hit the rev limiter<< > > Do all DR's Have Rev limiters , I have a 93 s model and I have often wondered this ? > > > ---------- > > From: jessekientz[SMTP:jesse@is-plus.net] > > Reply To: jessekientz > > Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 9:46 PM > > To: Bryan Nolastname > > Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust > > > > Bryan, did not know yours was an s model , my factory shop manual has two carbs > > listed under the 94 DRSER model one lists the main jet as #135 and the other at > > 127.5 probably calif. model, the pilot jets are 42.5 and 37.5 respectively. > > Since you have the airbox opened up I would go with a 140 it is always best to > > err on the rich side worst case you only foul a plug. Try this and ride it when > > you get your suspension parts back. and check your plug color it should be > > chocolate brown. It is very easy to over rev the engine in neutral with no load > > and hit the rev limiter it will pop and back fire when this happens and you can > > misinterpret this as a jetting problem, its better to ride it under load to get > > a better idea as to what is happening. > > Let me know how this works out. Jesse > > Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > > > Hi Jesse- Good idea about spacing the disks....I hadnt thought about thaat > > > but I can certainly see how it would be good insurance and ensure that you > > > really get flow thru all the disks. > > > > > > As far as jetting, I went up 2 sizes on the main jet (cant remember right > > > now what that is...135 maybe?), installed a Scott's T-handle pilot > > > adjustment screw (currently turned about 2.25 turns out), cut open top of > > > airbox and installed a K&N filter. I also T'd the vent tube off the carb. > > > > > > Right now (forks & shock are at Precision Concepts getting reworked) I can > > > only test the bike in the garage. After it warms up, there is a stumble > > > between about 3-4K rpms. I dont like to rev it much higher than 5-6 K while > > > its sitting in the garage in neutral. Any suggestions on jetting/MegaMax > > > setup would be appreciated. > > > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > > 95 DR350SE > > > > > > >From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> > > > >Reply-To: jesse@is-plus.net > > > >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com> > > > >CC: dr350@lists.xmission.com > > > >Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust > > > >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 19:57:12 -0700 > > > > > > > >Bryan, The last one of these that I installed, I noticed that to tighten > > > >the > > > >screws on the disc cap enough to keep them from falling out it compressed > > > >the > > > >first group of discs so very little flow would go through them did you > > > >notice > > > >this also?. To correct this I installed two small od 1/4" washers between > > > >each > > > >disc on each capscrew this spaces all the discs evenly and you can tighten > > > >the > > > >screws so they don't fall out. What other modifications have you done? this > > > >will > > > >determine what jetting will need to be done. Get back to me, I will see if > > > >we > > > >can get you jetted right. Jesse > > > > > > > >Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > > > > > > > > I know a few of you guys have the FMF MegaMax exhaust on your bikes. > > > >Mine > > > > > is on & bike will be put back together soon. I hope I can make any fine > > > > > tuning adjustments w/ just my handy Scott T-fuel adj pilot screw & > > > > > removing/adding the Supertrapp-like disks to the end of the can. > > > > > > > > > > Right now, I've got ALL of the disks on there that came w/ the exhaust. > > > >The > > > > > bike runs rough in lower RPMs (its only up on a stand...cant fully > > > >evaluate > > > > > till I get my suspension back on the bike). There is also a > > > >"quiet-core" > > > > > insert that can be used with or without the disks. Anyone willing to > > > >share > > > > > their setup? --you displacement-enhanced guys just be quiet :?) > > > > > > > > > > Bryan in Dallas > > > > > 95 DR350SE> > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) Re: sprockets and stuff Date: 23 May 1999 13:50:47 -0500 I use a 13/41 set up when in tight stuff..... checked speed at 9000 rpm is indicated 80mph. Most probably a little fast on the speedo. The GPS was runing about 3 to 4 mph slower than the Speedo on Arkansas trip a few weeks ago. If you can carry an 8mm socket setup and a set of snapring pliers, you can change back and forth from 15 to 13 in about 15mins on trail side. There's enuff adjustment on rear to take care of this if your chains is not overly worn out.. The GPS holder I bought from A-LOOP really did well. Got to use the securing loop or it will come off. I bought a little fishing bag (10 bucks) from Wally world and punched holes in the bottom and have it tie wrapped to the luggage rack. This carrys rainsuil, tools, etc. Then a person can use a piece of softline to secure it down so it doesn't flop about on the trail... Can't believe how much fun the DR was on the back gravel and trails in the Ozarks after running on this stuff for the last 4 years on an R11GSA. Now, to set it up so I don't want to trailer it up there but 480 miles on highways in one day on the DR350SET not my cup of tea even with the modified Corbin seat.... Maybe a small deflector windshield from National Cycle.... has anyone tried this out. I mean like I'm not racing or going that fast lol..... Andy Chesley Jennings, La. '97 DR350SE '97 R11RA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) intake noise Date: 23 May 1999 17:13:06 -0400 (EDT) Patrick, You will get some intake noise with any opening of the airbox. It is not really objectionable & as George said it is most pronounced to the rider. The loudness varies, most of it comes with a wide open throttle from near idle. If you want a stock sound level leave it stock. You can convert your SuperTrapp to the EAR series & use 4 discs, this is pretty close to stock sound level. JA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PATRICK ANDERSON <anderspj@home.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Timing thing.. Date: 23 May 1999 17:38:48 -0400 I am willing to sell the Supertrapp. If you are interested in a trade, those are always fun. I think MXsouth wants about two bills for one, go ahead and check them. The Supertrapp is one of the brushed aluminum models with the pipe from the header to the muffler. It is not the EAR model unfortunately... It has rust on the pipe, and a little bit of sideplate residue where it melted mine. I am willing to go about half of what MXsouth wants. Or if you have any juicy trades..... PJ George Kovacs wrote: > > Hi Patrick, > > Would you want to sell the supertrapp, and for howmuch? > > George > > PATRICK ANDERSON wrote: > > > Well, after a close examination of the plug, I saw evidence of > > slight detonation. It might have just been dirt particles or tiny > > carbon deposits, but there were a few speckles on the insulator, > > indicating detonation. I have been screwing with the carb lately, (got > > my jx needle and spring.) I actually think it still is running a bit > > lean. > > Since I am writing, I will say I am apprehensive about cutting up > > the air box, I dont want to have the bike make more noise. Is the > > noise that bad after you cut the top off the box? I was thinking I > > could buy another one of those rubber air horns that is in the stock air > > box already, and install it in front of the other one.... I dont know, > > I just dont want to turn the bike into an annoying loudmouth. I have > > had my experience with Supertrapp already... It sits nicely in my > > closet, collecting dust. > > PJ > > 94 se ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Date: 23 May 1999 16:19:44 -0500 My rear Pirelli MT21 has been a great tire until I got into thick sticky mud. It packed so much mud it became as useless as the original stock tire. Is the Kenda Trackmaster any better in the mud. I am seriously thinking about trailering my bike and putting real knobbies on it. I really don't like riding my bike on the street. A few people have talked about riding the DR on the road but my personal opinion is that it is strictly a trail bike. It's just not comfortable at anything over 40mph or so. It's fine for a little joyriding on back roads but those short highway runs are not for me! I can't do much with the bike off road either. I am a relative beginner but I wonder if my poor riding is partly the bike's fault - poor suspension and stuff like that. Has anyone switched to a bike like an XR650 or WR 400, not liked it, and returned to the DR? I don't mean to sound negative towards the DR but I think I am noticing the shortcomings of the bike. My initial excitement over the added power of opening the airbox and the JX needle and spring is wearing off. I'm ready for more power!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Chuck Vokac 92 DR350S Panama City, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Makis Kypraios" <modivin@freemail.gr> Subject: (dr350) DR 650 RS Date: 24 May 1999 01:32:27 +0300 I am the happy owner of a 1991 DR 650 RS and I just wanted to know if there are other DR 650 owners on this list and especially DR 650 RS owners... I'd really love to hear from you... Thanks in advance Makis Kypraios 3D Animator DR 650 RS ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Date: 23 May 1999 19:28:11 -0400 (EDT) Chuck, I knew your new found power from re-jetting would wear off but not this quick. Everything is a trade off. Do you need street legal, 4 stroke torque, high top-end, and so on. Same with tires. I rode last week with a new TrackMaster. Do I like? Sure. Did I stall in some wet red Georgia clay and get the knobs covered? Sure. Any tire will fill up in a muddy enough area, soft terrain tires work better but none are perfect. Stick with an intermediate for the best overall balance. More power? Everyone wants more power. My buds have XR600s and they want more power. They don't need it but they want it anyway. XR650Ls have more power & street legal but they are even heavier than the DR, unless you are STEVE A#1 DREAMSICLE from RMD. Give your DR a chance, you might like it. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Front Tires, suspension, and carbs Date: 23 May 1999 18:21:03 -0700 > 1) My front tire does not track well. Most of my spills are due to > going around a dirt corner and the tire coming loose unexpectedly. I > suspect front tire or suspension. > - What tires have you all found work well for the front? I have a > knobby for the back. > - My front suspension is set for "5" which I think is quite soft. Could > this be the problem? Why? I would guess that a new tire would help, but in the mean time, try shifting your weight substantially forward (like almost on top of the tank) when going around a sharp turn. > > 2) Speaking of suspension, what is that gizmo that seems to feed air > into the shock for? I took it to the filling station and pumped it up > to the max the station had and it made no difference at all. The reason > for my trying this was that I took my 120 lb son on the back and smelled The "gizmo" you refer to is the filling port for the shock bladder in the reservoir. The stock pressure for it is 142 psi of nitrogen (or very dry air). (That port is covered by a thin metal shield on many models.) This has absolutely _nothing_ to do with the "stiffness" of the rear suspension or how much weight you can carry. Your 120 lb son on the back bottomed out the spring, and that's what you need to adjust. The compression setting can only secondarily affect this problem. You can start with the preload adjuster ring; if that proves to be not enough, you'll need to replace the spring with a stiffer one. (If you go that route, do yourself a favor and switch to Kouba links at the same time; Norm Kouba will advise you of the proper spring rate for your weight at that time....) BTW, the reason that the bladder within a shock is pressurized is to minimize foaming or cavitation of the oil as it flows through the piston ports. Imagine the shock as a tube filled with oil, with a piston flowing back and forth through the oil. The valving of the piston dictates the compression and rebound damping, but since all of the oil is pressurized (the piston doesn't "stop" the pressurization), the amount of pressure in the bladder does nothing to force the piston one way or another, and thus does nothing to "raise" the back end of the bike (like "air shocks" would). Hope this helps, Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) spent money lost power Date: 23 May 1999 21:38:22 -0400 (EDT) Real quick me and my buddy have identical 98 drse models.my bike is 100% stock he has the fmf megamax2 muffler and his carb jetted to 135 from 127.5.We raced on the street from a stand still I beat him pretty good pulling on him in every gear.He was upset and I could not blame him.His upgrades cost him about 300 bucks and the bike is slower than a stock one.Something is wrong with his set up.Does any one have any ideas?Maybe the amount of plates on his pipe or he needs a bigger jet or needs more air.Anyone have this pipe lets hear your set up.Thanks guys his bike should be faster than mine. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) front exhaust pipe , what a joke. Date: 23 May 1999 21:53:21 -0500 Hi Charles, It is very simple, 2 bolts on the front by the engine ( i think it was 8mm hex bolt, you need a socket or an allen wrench) and 1, bolt in the mid section of the exhaust( 12mm head) It was very easy to get it out, how ever mine is a 99 with 800 miles on it. than the whole thing pulles forward with a slight twisting of a pipe , leave the muffler alone , you do not need to loosen it. Once it is out you will need a die-grinder or some rotory tool , prferably carbide bit.($5-10) than go at it , I grinded mine to the same diameter as the inside of the pipe. Be careful not to go overboard, that welding have to hold. it is extremly hard material posibly stainles steel, forget using a file, you will be sitting there for a day or so. And as far as power increase, could not tell ,do to the fact that i did this at the same time as i was instaling the JX needle and rejetting the carb, but i am very positive that it lets the bike breed easyer. just like an aftermarket pipe does, it is possible that it needs a richer carb setting too. But i don't see any harm. Any question , drop me a mail. George charles w vokac wrote: > Hey George, > > Please explain the procedure for opening the front of the exhaust pipe. > You just unbolted the exhaust pipe from the engine and widened the pipe's > entrance? Did it make a difference? I am very interested in doing this > if it's EASY. It's my guess that those bolts that hold the pipe to the > engine are a bitch to get off. > > Chuck Vokac > 92 DR350S > Panama City, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) Re: Date: 23 May 1999 22:15:27 -0500 Hi, Correct me if i am wrong on the tire issue, Kenda trackmaster is a full knoby, and the trackmaster II is a DOT aproved 90-10% tire On the power craving issue , and comperassion to XR and WR, Yes of course both are better but lets look at a few thing , DR 350 SE new , retail price is $4600 , street ready. with shity tires and soft suspension. WR400 is $5895, and good luck finding it. + yuo have to street legal it if you ever want to ride it from trail to trail. Add $400-500 more for the kit. The XR 400 is $5695 plus the DS kit. I crave for more power, and i do dream of those bikes every day and waking up saying to my self , lets trade the DR in. But than reality hits me on the for head. I am not a racer or in any competition, i dont want to spend any more money, or get a second mortgage, for gufing around in the dirt, and be able to ride to the store to rent a movie,or so. The DR is great for what it is designed for, Dual sport bike are not perfect for either road,or dirt ,like a road bike or a full dirt bike, designed for. it is just like my dream boat , thats great for fishing overnight cruising skiing and racing , light powerfull ,roomie,it will never happend. By the way Dirt Bike magazine has an exellent article on the WR vs. XR400, remembet the WR400 is just like a YZ400 , a full race bike with limiting from the factory 9throttle stop, exhaust cam timing, ext.) it is the same engine with a wider gear ratio trans. It blows the XR400 away. If you can affor it buy a YZ400 and a Honda Goldwing an you will be happy. George charles w vokac wrote: > My rear Pirelli MT21 has been a great tire until I got into thick sticky > mud. It packed so much mud it became as useless as the original stock > tire. Is the Kenda Trackmaster any better in the mud. I am seriously > thinking about trailering my bike and putting real knobbies on it. > > I really don't like riding my bike on the street. A few people have > talked about riding the DR on the road but my personal opinion is that it > is strictly a trail bike. It's just not comfortable at anything over > 40mph or so. It's fine for a little joyriding on back roads but those > short highway runs are not for me! I can't do much with the bike off > road either. I am a relative beginner but I wonder if my poor riding is > partly the bike's fault - poor suspension and stuff like that. > > Has anyone switched to a bike like an XR650 or WR 400, not liked it, and > returned to the DR? I don't mean to sound negative towards the DR but I > think I am noticing the shortcomings of the bike. My initial excitement > over the added power of opening the airbox and the JX needle and spring > is wearing off. I'm ready for more power!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > Chuck Vokac > 92 DR350S > Panama City, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Re: more power Date: 24 May 1999 08:33:10 EDT Chuck, George made some very good points. Everything depends on what kind of riding you do, how much money you want to spend and how good you really are. I have often had the same thoughts as you. I was very close to buying a KTM 300EXC this year. I just had to have more power! Then I started to think about the money. My off road DR was a very cheap bike to buy. The KTM is most definitely not cheap. Then I had to think about my riding skill and style. I think all of us who are a little older have fond memories of how great we where in our glory days of youth. The reality for me is that every Monday I have to go to work (hopefully with all my parts mostly functional) and earn a living. I think I will compromise and put a little money into a big bore kit, leave a little money in the bank and spend a little less time watching Jeremy Mcgrath (he puts bad thoughts into my head). Mike A. Nashville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust Date: 24 May 1999 06:03:11 PDT Update on my recent tuning efforts: I have installed a K&N filter, JX needle & spring combo, Scotts T-handle pilot adj valve, 135 main jet (up 2-3 sizes from the 127.5 stocker), MegaMaxII exhaust, "T'd" the vent hose on the carb, and opened up (cut top off) airbox. My best results after a day of fiddling is this: -3 turns out on the pilot adj screw -I raised the needle 1 position (Thumper sends it in the 4th position from bottom, I lowered it to the 3rd position from bottom) -all 11 disks installed on the MegaMax WOW!! The bike is so much stronger than when I got it as stock a couple of months ago!! It ran really good with the MegaMax fully uncorked....good off-idle response along w/ great mid-range & top end. But I couldnt handle the noise and it popped exessively on deceleration. Adding the 11 disks made it bearable and cut down on alot of popping. I still have some popping while deceleration, but have reduced it by considerably by the settings above. Is it really posible to get rid of the popping on deceleration completely? If I wanted to get rid of more popping, I wonder if I should try raising the needle another notch, or maybe going w/ a bigger main jet? Can the pilot adj screw be turned out too much (obviously not so much that it falls out)? Any suggestions appreciated. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) Anyone try "Easy Pull" clutch & throttle mods by Thumper Racing? Date: 24 May 1999 06:06:31 PDT Anyone try "Easy Pull" clutch & throttle mods by Thumper Racing? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: sprockets and stuff Date: 24 May 1999 06:17:57 PDT By the way, w/ my new 44t rear sprocket, I was doing about 100-200 rpm over whatever speed I was going on the hiway: 75 mph= 7600rpm, 60mph=6200 rpm, etc.... Top speed in 6th was a hair over 85, and it was within a few hundred rpm of redline. Only complaint is that it made for a little buzzier ride at over 70mph due to the higher rpm. I cant remember what my speed/rpm ratio was before, but I'm pretty sure is was like 70mph=6000 rpm....could be wrong. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) >Reply-To: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) >To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) Re: sprockets and stuff >Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 13:50:47 -0500 > >I use a 13/41 set up when in tight stuff..... checked speed at 9000 rpm is >indicated 80mph. Most probably a little fast on the speedo. The GPS was >runing about 3 to 4 mph slower than the Speedo on Arkansas trip a few weeks >ago. > >If you can carry an 8mm socket setup and a set of snapring pliers, you can >change back and forth from 15 to 13 in about 15mins on trail side. There's >enuff adjustment on rear to take care of this if your chains is not overly >worn out.. > >The GPS holder I bought from A-LOOP really did well. Got to use the >securing loop or it will come off. > >I bought a little fishing bag (10 bucks) from Wally world and punched holes >in the bottom and have it tie wrapped to the luggage rack. This carrys >rainsuil, tools, etc. Then a person can use a piece of softline to secure >it down so it doesn't flop about on the trail... > >Can't believe how much fun the DR was on the back gravel and trails in the >Ozarks after running on this stuff for the last 4 years on an R11GSA. Now, > to set it up so I don't want to trailer it up there but 480 miles on >highways in one day on the DR350SET not my cup of tea even with the >modified Corbin seat.... Maybe a small deflector windshield from National >Cycle.... has anyone tried this out. I mean like I'm not racing or going >that fast lol..... > >Andy Chesley >Jennings, La. >'97 DR350SE >'97 R11RA > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: Date: 24 May 1999 06:25:27 PDT Try changing jetting & a new exhaust for more power. There is no comparison to the power I'm getting out of my 95 SE now compared to when it was stock a few months ago. I think I'm even gonna forget about going for the big bore kit I thought I'd be doing when I got it. Regarding other bikes.......I sold a XR650L just before I bought the DR. It was way too big & heavy to do anything but mild trail riding off road. Every time I took it into mud, deep ruts, up/down steep hills w/ wierd angles....I dropped it. Especially if your new to dirt...(which I am as well) SMALLER & LIGHTER = MUCH BETTER!!! Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> >Reply-To: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 16:19:44 -0500 > >My rear Pirelli MT21 has been a great tire until I got into thick sticky >mud. It packed so much mud it became as useless as the original stock >tire. Is the Kenda Trackmaster any better in the mud. I am seriously >thinking about trailering my bike and putting real knobbies on it. > > I really don't like riding my bike on the street. A few people have >talked about riding the DR on the road but my personal opinion is that it >is strictly a trail bike. It's just not comfortable at anything over >40mph or so. It's fine for a little joyriding on back roads but those >short highway runs are not for me! I can't do much with the bike off >road either. I am a relative beginner but I wonder if my poor riding is >partly the bike's fault - poor suspension and stuff like that. > >Has anyone switched to a bike like an XR650 or WR 400, not liked it, and >returned to the DR? I don't mean to sound negative towards the DR but I >think I am noticing the shortcomings of the bike. My initial excitement >over the added power of opening the airbox and the JX needle and spring >is wearing off. I'm ready for more power!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >Chuck Vokac >92 DR350S >Panama City, FL > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Charlie Vincent <Charlie@mail.j-e-morgan.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) tuning the MegamaxII exhaust -Reply Date: 24 May 1999 09:37:21 -0400 Where is the best place to get the JX needle & spirng combo, Scott T-handle, a few main jets, and a k&n? charlie >>> "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> 05/24/99 09:03am >>> Update on my recent tuning efforts: I have installed a K&N filter, JX needle & spring combo, Scotts T-handle pilot adj valve, 135 main jet (up 2-3 sizes from the 127.5 stocker), MegaMaxII exhaust, "T'd" the vent hose on the carb, and opened up (cut top off) airbox. My best results after a day of fiddling is this: -3 turns out on the pilot adj screw -I raised the needle 1 position (Thumper sends it in the 4th position from bottom, I lowered it to the 3rd position from bottom) -all 11 disks installed on the MegaMax WOW!! The bike is so much stronger than when I got it as stock a couple of months ago!! It ran really good with the MegaMax fully uncorked....good off-idle response along w/ great mid-range & top end. But I couldnt handle the noise and it popped exessively on deceleration. Adding the 11 disks made it bearable and cut down on alot of popping. I still have some popping while deceleration, but have reduced it by considerably by the settings above. Is it really posible to get rid of the popping on deceleration completely? If I wanted to get rid of more popping, I wonder if I should try raising the needle another notch, or maybe going w/ a bigger main jet? Can the pilot adj screw be turned out too much (obviously not so much that it falls out)? Any suggestions appreciated. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) JX jetting Date: 24 May 1999 10:01:10 -0500 Hi, i will try to keep this short, Here are results of the installation of the JX needle and spring. This is a 99 DR350 SE bike , Air box opened up to a 3.5 X 3.5 inch square hole. UNI air filter, or stock works just as good. JX spring and needle , main jet from 127.5 to 152.5, yes you are reading it right. pilot unchanged. Pilot screw adjusted to the setting where it idles the smoothest , i don't exactly know how many turn. jx needle clip left in the middle position. Exhaust front pipe welding grinded off to be flush with inside pipe diameter. a 14 teeth front sprocket. the result is a much more snappy trottle response from idle , and stronger pulling at wide open. I got a full knobby on the rear , wheelies are unavoidable, if you get on the trottle. definitely happy with the result. Cost : from thumper racing. $10 for needle $11 for spring $20 for uni filter( not necessary, but comes handy as a second filter, ready needed) from local dealer : $1.59 152 main jet $15 14 teeth front sprocket. $46 for a knobby tire (optional of course) I also put an inline gas-filter in a fuel in, and "T" of the vent hose on the side of the carb , so it can drain out in case of a fall or tip over. The bike definitely noisier (air rush). I am still going to try to fine tune it , by moving the needle , and let you know if it get any better. But for now i am out to ride. I try to get my hands on a next size up pilot jet to try as well, but as of now no-one has it. Note: there is no guaranty that this setting will work on every bike , i have seen others post with different jetting , and like i posted before, my bike would bog down, and not rev with those setting. Any questions just drop a mail. George ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: DR vs Others Date: 24 May 1999 11:42:32 -0700 Chuck, There may be better DP/DS bikes, but it depends upon your intended use, skill, & how much you want to spend. Me thinks the DR makes a comfortable compromise between trail & road-ablility; the laid-back cockpit is comfortable for a seated position; the seat: soft and comfy; the engine and tranny make for lazy, adequate, easy-to-use motoring, and you'd be hard pressed to find softer, cushy suspension. On the other hand, the WR400 comes with a much stiffer (and competent off-road) suspension (and seat), is quite tall, and likes to (needs to) rev much higher; no doubt a race-oriented bike. I rode a friend's YZ400 (I'm told the WR isn't that much diff.) and wouldn't have it for dirt trailing, let alone the road; too stiff, sharp, tall, and mean; it is demanding of the operator. The XR650L is tall and slightly fatter than the DR, & carries more weight. It has more power everywhere and would be better on the street, a handful in the dirt for all but big pilots. The one I rode had neat-o electric start, plenty of torque, but I wouldn't want it for everyday trailing. You can fare well by putting some more $ into the DR if you are happy with it as a foundation; you'd take a loss trading it away and coming up with the $ for a replacement, and may not be that better off - it's better to take a small loss first via some mods, than a big one and then be sorry for it. I suggest you go with a mild boost in displacement and compression, say 385cc's. I do not recommend going the full gamut (400/435/441) unless you spend an equal amount in the suspension, otherwise the power will overcome the suspension - believe me: I know this from personal experience. John >I really don't like riding my bike on the street. A few people have talked about riding the DR on the road but my personal opinion is that it is strictly a trail bike. It's just not comfortable at anything over 40mph or so. It's fine for a little joyriding on back roads but those short highway runs are not for me! I can't do much with the bike off road either. I am a relative beginner but I wonder if my poor riding is partly the bike's fault - poor suspension and stuff like that. >Has anyone switched to a bike like an XR650 or WR 400, not liked it, and returned to the DR? I don't mean to sound negative towards the DR but I think I am noticing the shortcomings of the bike. My initial excitement over the added power of opening the airbox and the JX needle and spring is wearing off. I'm ready for more power!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >Chuck Vokac 92 DR350S Panama City, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod Date: 24 May 1999 11:59:53 PDT Andy, on the R (exhaust) side of bike, look at the carb. There are 2 hoses coming off of it. The forward most hose goes to the petcock vacuum. The other is the carb vent line, which runs up into the frame. Pull that one off, cut a 1" piece of line the same size (use clear so you can see when gas is overfowing), attach one end back on the carb, and the other end put a T connector. Run the same length of line back up into the frame tube that was originally there, run another line off the other end of the T connector straight down & ziptie it somewhere low on the frame where the dripping gas wont pose a problem. Very easy. Bryan in Dallas DR350SE >From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) >To: Bryan Nolastname <vfrman@hotmail.com> >Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: sprockets and stuff >Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:53:39 -0500 > >Also, regarding the "T-hose-carb-vent" mod someone came up >with....WONDERFUL! I played around all day riding whoops & climbing hills >& >doing small jumps.....never had the bogging/cutting out/flooding symptoms >so >many of us have complained about after such rough riding. This is a must >do >mod for those of us w/ the SE bikes w/ CV carbs. Costs exactly $5 for me, >including the new hose. > >Bryan, have heard about the T vent but not sure what they are talking >about... >Could you explain this one to me in more detail.... I must of missed the >post >.... > >The Newer SEs are all 15/41.. My buddies '95 is 14/41 also. 14/44 = >3.14 and >13/41 = 3.15 so it's doing bout the same thing. I have to ride about 45 >miles >of get to my favorite riding place here (really tight forest stuff where >the >Louisiana Nat'l Enduro is held) so like the tall gearing for the road >trip.. > > >Cheers and Best Regards >Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking >'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) >'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) >"So Many Roads, So Little Time" >http://www.deltech.net/members/aches > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: M Lang <mlang@fstsrv.jpl.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod Date: 24 May 1999 12:20:24 -0800 >Andy, on the R (exhaust) side of bike, look at the carb. There are 2 hoses >coming off of it. The forward most hose goes to the petcock vacuum. The >other is the carb vent line, which runs up into the frame. Pull that one >off, cut a 1" piece of line the same size (use clear so you can see when gas >is overfowing), attach one end back on the carb, and the other end put a T >connector. Run the same length of line back up into the frame tube that was >originally there, run another line off the other end of the T connector >straight down & ziptie it somewhere low on the frame where the dripping gas >wont pose a problem. Very easy. > >Bryan in Dallas >DR350SE Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? Am I missing something? Thanks. = Minh = 96 DR-350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Terrian <terrian@ibm.net> Subject: RE: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod Date: 24 May 1999 13:38:29 -0600 Minh: What follows is just a guess: IMHO, you probably could ignore the T setup if you were never going to = ride in water. The purpose of that hose is to vent the inside of the = carb above the diaphragm; without it I doubt the slide would slide. Now, = if you submerged the end of that hose in water, you would effectively be = shutting off the air supply. I think the hose is run high up inside the = frame to keep it above the level of any water you may ride through. =20 Mike T 96 DR350SE=20 ---------- Reply To: M Lang Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 2:20 PM >Andy, on the R (exhaust) side of bike, look at the carb. There are 2 = hoses >coming off of it. The forward most hose goes to the petcock vacuum. = The >other is the carb vent line, which runs up into the frame. Pull that = one >off, cut a 1" piece of line the same size (use clear so you can see = when gas >is overfowing), attach one end back on the carb, and the other end put = a T >connector. Run the same length of line back up into the frame tube = that was >originally there, run another line off the other end of the T connector >straight down & ziptie it somewhere low on the frame where the dripping = gas >wont pose a problem. Very easy. > >Bryan in Dallas >DR350SE Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? Am I missing something? Thanks. =3D Minh =3D 96 DR-350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod Date: 24 May 1999 19:26:02 -0400 (EDT) --WebTV-Mail-1960315502-14181 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit You can just run the original hose down if you don't mind gas pissing out all over your motor and swingarm. --WebTV-Mail-1960315502-14181 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Received: from mailsorter-101-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.97) by postoffice-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net; Mon, 24 May 1999 12:19:31 -0700 (PDT) Return-Path: <owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com> Received: from lists.xmission.com (lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7]) by mailsorter-101-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) with ESMTP id MAA07588; Mon, 24 May 1999 12:19:29 -0700 (PDT) Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 2.05 #1) id 10m0Fb-0001J7-00 for dr350-goout@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 24 May 1999 13:19:03 -0600 Received: from [137.78.36.20] (helo=fstsrv.jpl.nasa.gov) by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.05 #1) id 10m0FZ-0001J0-00 for dr350@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 24 May 1999 13:19:01 -0600 Received: from [137.78.36.34] (truck [137.78.36.34]) by fstsrv.jpl.nasa.gov (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id MAA04961 for <dr350@lists.xmission.com>; Mon, 24 May 1999 12:19:00 -0700 (PDT) Message-Id: <v0310281eb36f64a7f846@[137.78.36.34]> In-Reply-To: <19990524185955.62635.qmail@hotmail.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: M Lang <mlang@fstsrv.jpl.nasa.gov> >Andy, on the R (exhaust) side of bike, look at the carb. There are 2 hoses >coming off of it. The forward most hose goes to the petcock vacuum. The >other is the carb vent line, which runs up into the frame. Pull that one >off, cut a 1" piece of line the same size (use clear so you can see when gas >is overfowing), attach one end back on the carb, and the other end put a T >connector. Run the same length of line back up into the frame tube that was >originally there, run another line off the other end of the T connector >straight down & ziptie it somewhere low on the frame where the dripping gas >wont pose a problem. Very easy. > >Bryan in Dallas >DR350SE Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? Am I missing something? Thanks. = Minh = 96 DR-350SE --WebTV-Mail-1960315502-14181-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: dave bloom <dbloom@inow.com> Subject: (dr350) Do I have a stock carb? Date: 24 May 1999 20:56:24 -0700 I have a '91 DR 350S and wonder if I have a stock carb. I notice that most similar bikes have a carb almost identical but they have a round pulley arrangement that that the throttle cable turns. Mine doesn't have that. Does anyone else have a '91 to compare to? The throttle cable has a direct line into the carb top and the spring is inside the carb body. Otherwise it looks much like other carbs. It is a Mukusi (sp?) Dave ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) oil filter o-ring Date: 25 May 1999 00:20:11 EDT Hey everyone I changed my bike's oil for the first time and saw that it was missing the small o-ring that's against the filter. does anyone know where I can get this o-ring through the mail? or should I just find one at the hardware store? thanks Bryant _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) valve train Date: 25 May 1999 00:17:26 EDT Andy thanks for the drawing and explaination, now I don't know why the dr's first valve adjustment at 2500 miles had clearances that were small. any ideas? the first owner didn't adjust it after he broke in the engine. >Bryant >Hi there >Excuse the drawing but just threw it together to give you an idea of the >valve train we're talking about. >I saw a few answers to your question and didn't particualarly like what >I saw... even from the mechanic of 11 or so years. ha ha ha. >As you can see.... wear at the camlobe/rockerarm junction and the >rockerarm/valve tip junction will increase clearance... Common sense >there if you look at it. >The other wear would be at the valve face/valve seat junction which is >not a lot usually unless other factors come into play. Poor metal, >overheated valve ( from zero clearance where the valve can't dissapte >it's heat thru the seat ) >So most of the time your clearances will be on the large side and this >also makes the clicking of them more noticable. >When adjusting valves, it's best to error on the loose side rather than >the tight side for ovious reasons. _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) carb Date: 25 May 1999 00:32:29 -0400 (EDT) Dave, The early years of the DR 'S' models came with the single cable carb you mention. My 90 model DRS came with this carb. My buddy has a 90 model DR 'dirt' model with dual throttle cable setup. It can be confusing. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Timing thing..and the sound of thunder Date: 25 May 1999 02:21:38 EDT PJ (et. al.), <Since I am writing, I will say I am apprehensive about cutting up the air box, I dont want to have the bike make more noise. Is the noise that bad after you cut the top off the box?> I have a '93 DR350 that I've cut the top off the airbox and to me it's not much louder than stock.....'course my wife says I'm going deaf......; -). I am using the stock exhaust system..... Unless you're going to get very serious with engine mods (big bore kits, cams etc.), the stock exhaust system is best left alone. Baja Designs, on their website, talks about the pros and cons of "performance" exhaust systems on big 4-stroke bikes. Essentially, you pay BIG bucks for an exhaust that makes a little improvement in HP/torque while generating a major increase in noise levels. Once you quiet these "noisy" exhausts to a tolerable level most, if not all, of the performance gains are defeated. Saving weight?.... Not....maybe 2-3 pounds on a bike that weights 275 lbs. IMHO...ride quietly so you can..... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod Date: 25 May 1999 05:53:10 PDT Actually, I think a second reason for the T-two hose setup (the first being to have one end above any water you may get into) is because when gas does splash into a single vent hose, even if it was pointed straight down, it wouldn't necessarily immediately drain right out. That is, small "clots" (cant think of any other word for it) of gas could block the vent tube for some periods of time before it eventually drained out.....the gas would also be prevented from free-flowing out of a single down-pointing vent tube by the low-pressure (suction) the carb is creating. With the T-two hose setup, gas will free flow down the down tube because there is no low pressure in the carb thanks to the free-air flowing "up" tube. It makes perfect sense to me, but I dont know if I've explained it well. In any event, it damn sure works! Why doesn't somebody try just sticking the original tube straight down, go ride some whoops/do some jumps, then come back & report? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >Reply-To: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) details on the T-vent mod >Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:26:02 -0400 (EDT) > >You can just run the original hose down if you don't mind gas pissing >out all over your motor and swingarm. > ><< Message3.txt >> _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Terrian <terrian@ibm.net> Date: 25 May 1999 08:18:58 -0600 Minh (et al): When I got home last night and took a look at my carb, I realized I was = all wrong yesterday about the hose venting the top of the carb. There is = a vent but (oddly enough) no hose attached to it. Unfortunately, the = exploded diagram of the carb in my shop manual is the left side view so = it's not apparent what function the hose plays. Sorry for cluttering the = list with misinformation. Mike T=09 '96 DR350SE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "chasmatic" <chasmatic@email.msn.com> Subject: (dr350) Fw: Why Bikers Dont wave Date: 25 May 1999 10:43:30 -0500 Since we are discussing BMW's and the relative merits of the F650 and it's qualifications to be included as a BMW, thought it might be appropriate to pass along these little wisdoms. Since many of us seem to have BMWs, I think most of you will get a kick out of them, especially the #1 reason Harral TOP TEN REASONS HARLEY RIDERS MAY NOT WAVE BACK 10...Afraid it will invalidate warranty 9...Leather and studs make it too hard to raise arm 8...Refuses to wave to anyone whose bike is already paid for 7...Afraid to let go of handlebars because they might vibrate off 6...Rushing wind would blow scabs off the new tattoos 5...Angry because just took out second mortgage to pay luxury tax on new Harley 4...Just discovered the fine print in owner's manual and realized H-D is partially owned by those rice burner manufacturers 3...Can't tell if other riders are waving or just reaching to cover their ears like everyone else 2...Remembers the last time a Harley rider waved back, he impaled his hand on spiked helmet and the Number One reason Harley riders don't wave back: 1...They're jealous that after spending $30,000, they still don't own a BMW. TOP TEN REASONS GOLD WING RIDERS MAY NOT WAVE BACK 10...Wasn't sure whether other rider was waving or making an obscene gesture 9...Afraid might get frostbite if hand is removed from heated grip 8...Has arthritis and the past 400 miles have made it difficult to raise arm 7...Reflection from etched windshield momentarily blinded him 6...The expresso machine just finished 5...Was actually asleep when other rider waved 4...Was in a three-way conference call with stock broker and accessories dealer 3...Couldn't find the "auto wave back" button on dashboard 2...Was simultaneously adjusting the air suspension, seat height, programmable CD player, seat temperature and satellite navigation system and the Number One reason Gold Wing riders don't wave back: 1...They couldn't see through the glare from the chromed dash accents Now here's why another BMW rider might not wave to you: 10. New Aerostich suit too stiff to raise arm. 9. New owner trying to figure out how to cancel blinker from previous turn. 8. Too sore from a 500-mile day on a stock seat. 7. In the process of changing CDs on his K1200RT. 6. He's an Iron Butt rider and you're not! 5. Cramped up from riding K1200RS for the past hour. 4. He belongs to the "other" owners' association. 3. Trying to figure out how he'll make his next payment. 2. Has to hold on with both hands to withstand the surging. And the number one reason why he might not wave: 1. You're not riding the "right kind" of BMW. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) McGyver story; changing clutch plates; sticky shifting Date: 25 May 1999 11:59:34 PDT Before my question & comment, got to tell you all about the "McGyver" I pulled the other day: Out on a sleepy trail, miles from nowhere, I stop in a hiway access parking lot. Walk, stretch, pee, drink, then...get on bike, pull in clutch lever, *SNAP*!! The cable busted! Right at the clutch actuator arm where the cable ends & the little lead round thing is pressed/melted to the cable is where it broke. I thought & thought & thought about how to get back thru the 10 miles of mild but muddy trails and then 40 Interstate miles back to Dallas. Here's what I did: I cut the metal hook off one end of a bungee cord, used my Leatherman tool to make a loop through the clutch lever arm where the lead end thing was, then made a sharp bend at the other end. I ran the one inch or so of excess clutch cable thru the bend, then clamped the bungee hook wire in it as tight as I could. Then, I took off one of the factory Suz cable ties (like a zip tie but removeable), and cinched down the clutch cable back onto itself. A little adjustment on the cable, and that baby worked as good as the original cable! Very impressed with myself! But important lesson learned: in mid-July when I take my week-long ride in the mountain trails in Colorado, I'm taking damn near every tool I could need, as well as an extra cable, 2 tubes, and whatever other small spares & replacement parts I can think of! Question: I just ordered a Barnett Kevlar Dirt Digger clutch kit from MAW for $94. It comes w/ the friction plates, steel (drive?) plates, springs, and I hope any gaskets necessary for job. I have never changed out clutch plates on anything. Is it hard? Need any special tools? I think I remember someone saying an impact wrench was necessary...true? Comment: On my 95SE, I've always noticed that the transmission is very stubborn when cold...neutral being almost impossible to find, and if I dont rev er up a bit, she'll die when I kick it into first gear. Once in first (this is only during first 10 min of operation or so), even w/ clutch pulled all way in, the bike will be wanting to "walk" forward if I'm on level ground. All this goes away after 10-15 min. When fully warmed, shifting action is OK, but I'd like it to be better. Will my new, strong, Kevlar clutch help or hinder these problems? BTW, anyone try Thumper's "easy-pull" clutch arm gizmo? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Christian R." <Christian.Renninger@slip.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 650 RS Date: 25 May 1999 15:29:19 +0200 Yes !!!! I bought 1 week ago a DR650SE '96 Seems to be a nice bike, very good engine... But does anyone know how to add an odometer on it ?? Thanks -----Original Message----- >I am the happy owner of a 1991 DR 650 RS and I just wanted to know if there >are other DR 650 owners on this list and especially DR 650 RS owners... > >I'd really love to hear from you... > >Thanks in advance > >Makis Kypraios >3D Animator >DR 650 RS > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 650 RS Date: 25 May 1999 15:49:21 -0700 > But does anyone know how to add an odometer on it ?? I'd recommend using a mtn bike computer. Start with: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm Instead of the magnet mounting method shown on that web site, I bought a couple little (~1/8" diameter) rare earth magnets from radio shack. Drill a hole in your brake rotor to just accomodate the magnets, stack them on top of each other, and epoxy the two into that hole. They end up slightly less in thickness of the rotor itself. Place the sensor (using a couple zip ties) so the end of the sensor (not the middle) is close to where the magnets pass by. Zip tie the coax cable (see the web page) to the brake line, and run it up to the handle bar mount. A front disk guard (like from Maier's) does a good job of protecting it all. Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) oil filter o-ring Date: 25 May 1999 17:06:39 -0700 Bryant, most bearing supply houses carry O'rings, listed under bearings in the yellow pages. Jesse Bryant Wang wrote: > Hey everyone > > I changed my bike's oil for the first time and saw that it was missing the > small o-ring that's against the filter. > does anyone know where I can get this o-ring through the mail? > > or should I just find one at the hardware store? > > thanks > Bryant > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) Re: T-vents Date: 25 May 1999 20:02:45 -0500 --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? Am I missing something? Thanks. = Minh = This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter change time comes up.... Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and having to learn all over again. Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... ;-). -- Cheers and Best Regards Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) "So Many Roads, So Little Time" http://www.deltech.net/members/aches --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"> <html> <i>Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it</i> <br><i>somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose?</i> <br><i>Am I missing something?</i><i></i> <p><i>Thanks.</i><i></i> <p><i> = Minh =</i> <br>This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter change time comes up.... <p>Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and having to learn all over again. Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... ;-). <br>-- <br>Cheers and Best Regards <br>Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking <br>'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) <br>'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) <br>"So Many Roads, So Little Time" <br><A HREF="http://www.deltech.net/members/aches">http://www.deltech.net/members/aches</A> <br> </html> --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: T-vents Date: 25 May 1999 20:33:16 -0600 Andrus and list... please post in plain text only...anything else causes garbage to the digest subscribers...thanks, Kurt Simpson -----Original Message----- >Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it >somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? >Am I missing something? > >Thanks. > > = Minh = >This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where >it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the >EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a >couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter >change time comes up.... > >Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not >same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and >having to learn all over again. Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... >;-). >-- >Cheers and Best Regards >Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking >'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) >'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) >"So Many Roads, So Little Time" >http://www.deltech.net/members/aches > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) McGyver story; changing clutch plates; sticky shifting Date: 25 May 1999 19:58:03 PDT I broke a clutch cable too several years ago, right where the cable goes into the lead end piece, at the lever end of the cable. I had about 15 miles of interstate highway riding to get back to camp and just shifted without the clutch. I took the cable to a local bike shop and had a new end installed, their repair job looked better than the factory end. The factory end is undersized and has a stupid little plastic sleeve around it that gets chewed up after many miles of riding, creating slop where the lead end piece pivots in the clutch lever. I think the slop created after the plastic sleeve turned to dust caused the cable to rub against the lever, etc. then the cable eventually broke. The new end was the same size as the hole in the lever. After returning home I ordered a new clutch cable and carry it as a spare along with spare brake, clutch and shift levers. I've never needed the spares myself but have loaned them to other DR riders in need along the trail until the end of the day. Doug Tacoma, WA soon the be in Moab for the Rally ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) clutch cables Date: 25 May 1999 21:53:07 -0600 I have also broken a clutch cable at the same weak point you describe. I might suggest replacing it about every 5000 miles, or at least keep a close eye on that end of the cable. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking Date: 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500 Hi folks, Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with the bikes setting. This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed, but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well. If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing the carb. I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4 barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3). It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block to turn the cable. Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory , for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable, so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM. If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do. Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode. (Little rich is always better than little lean) George ( the bad mechanic) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) clutch Date: 26 May 1999 00:26:27 -0400 (EDT) Bryan, I doubt you will get a gasket for the clutch side case with your clutch kit, probably have to ge it separately. The clutch has the lock-tab type washer on the nut holding the hub on, hopefully an air impact wrench will loosen the nut after bending the tab out, otherwise improvising is in order. The clutch pull will be harder, I have an EBC kit and it is stffer but works well. I put on that MSR/Wirtz lever assembly and it helped alot. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: George Kovacs <mtctech@acronet.net> Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking Date: 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500 Hi folks, Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with the bikes setting. This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed, but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well. If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing the carb. I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4 barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3). It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block to turn the cable. Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory , for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable, so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM. If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do. Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode. (Little rich is always better than little lean) George ( the bad mechanic) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) McGyver story; changing clutch plates; sticky shifting Date: 26 May 1999 00:22:45 EDT In a message dated 5/25/99 12:01:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, vfrman@hotmail.com writes: << I have never changed out clutch plates on anything. Is it hard? Need any special tools? I think I remember someone saying an impact wrench was necessary...true? >> Bryan, You should soak the fiber plates in the same oil you use in the motor for at least several hours. There is a tool for holding the clutch basket from rotating, if you can't find one let me know. Be very careful to not over tighten the bolts holding down the plates. While you are in there the gland nut holding the basket should be checked for excessive play. << When fully warmed, shifting action is OK, but I'd like it to be better. >> Check or replace the shift pawl, it's usually bent. Also check the shift drum bolt. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: SMRGEO@aol.com Subject: (dr350) SERVICE MANUALS Date: 26 May 1999 10:17:04 EDT I bought a service manual for my 97 DR350 & about half of it is for other bikes. There are sections on the 97 350s model, 91 350m, 91 350sm, 92 350n/350sn, 93 350p/sp, 94 350r/ser, 95 350s/ses, & 96 350t/set. Some sections are more extensive than others. Most have specs.,( carb settings, measurements, capacities ), wiring diagrams, cable & hose routing, etc. I'm sure someone could find some useful info in them. If you're interested & would send a couple of $ to cover postage, I would be more than glad to send them to you. They are of no use to me. Thank you. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) SERVICE MANUALS Date: 26 May 1999 08:08:23 -0700 The way my service manual works is: The manual is for a '90 (or around there) bike. In '91, they added a supplement for whatever changed from '90. Same in '92, and so on, up through '97. For example, in '94, Suzuki went to the cartridge-style forks for the dirt-only model. The information about these forks is _only_ in the '94 addendum, though it applies to several later years. So don't get rid of those sections -- many apply to your '97! It's a pain, to say the least, but I would still recommend that anyone who wants to work on their bikes get the factory manual. It's worth the $65 (though I wish it went more into shock maintenance). Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento > > I bought a service manual for my 97 DR350 & about half of it is for other > bikes. There are sections on the 97 350s model, 91 350m, 91 350sm, 92 > 350n/350sn, 93 350p/sp, 94 350r/ser, 95 350s/ses, & 96 350t/set. > Some sections are more extensive than others. Most have specs.,( carb > settings, measurements, capacities ), wiring diagrams, cable & hose routing, > etc. I'm sure someone could find some useful info in them. If you're > interested & would send a couple of $ to cover postage, I would be more than > glad to send them to you. They are of no use to me. Thank you. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) EPA Jets Date: 26 May 1999 10:15:45 -0500 Has anyone done a comparison between the EPA jets of the CV carbs of the S and SE models and the normal jets of the regular Mukuni carbs????. I changed out the 37.5 EPA with a normal 40 and it was so fat it would not run below 2500 rpm even with the idle ajustment screw shut off all the way. I had to take it out again but was running out of time to take measurments on the exact open differenace of the two. In past experience a half size on the pilot jet shouldn't of made THAT much difference. But????? Who knows.... Andy Chesley ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: (dr350) 90/90 tires Date: 26 May 1999 09:33:53 -0600 Anybody out there running a 90/90X21 (as opposed to the 100/?X21) on there DR350SE? Any adverse affects? Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) 90/90 tires Date: 26 May 1999 09:37:26 -0600 -----Original Message----- >Anybody out there running a 90/90X21 (as opposed to the 100/?X21) on there >DR350SE? Any adverse affects? > >Gino I just went with Mike's Dunlop recommendation and it only comes in one size... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) SERVICE MANUALS Date: 26 May 1999 12:17:36 EDT In a message dated 5/26/99 8:10:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time, cowger@core.rose.hp.com writes: << It's a pain, to say the least, but I would still recommend that anyone who wants to work on their bikes get the factory manual. It's worth the $65 (though I wish it went more into shock maintenance). >> There is very little information on the shock maintenance because Suzuki (as well as Yamaha and Kawasaki) do not typically offer any internal shock replacement parts. And yes the factory manuals are by far the best in the business! Mike (425) 776-RIDE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Service Manual & Our Resident Tech. Date: 26 May 1999 09:32:24 -0700 Bryan is right; the earlier sections are complete and cover items not found in the latter ones that pertain to your year, and address those things which have changed *only*. Look for yourself and you will see what I mean; you will need the earlier portions as it covers items not shown in the later, following amendments. I'd like to unofficially nominate Bryan as the hands-on tech. writer of the group - anyone who can competently repair their own shock and thereafter write an instructive, easy-to-understand tutorial deserves some honor; at the least be available for pesky, detailed questions from knuckle-headed mechanics like me. John Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> on 05/26/99 08:08:23 AM Please respond to Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) The way my service manual works is: The manual is for a '90 (or around there) bike. In '91, they added a supplement for whatever changed from '90. Same in '92, and so on, up through '97. For example, in '94, Suzuki went to the cartridge-style forks for the dirt-only model. The information about these forks is _only_ in the '94 addendum, though it applies to several later years. So don't get rid of those sections -- many apply to your '97! It's a pain, to say the least, but I would still recommend that anyone who wants to work on their bikes get the factory manual. It's worth the $65 (though I wish it went more into shock maintenance). Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento > > I bought a service manual for my 97 DR350 & about half of it is for other > bikes. There are sections on the 97 350s model, 91 350m, 91 350sm, 92 > 350n/350sn, 93 350p/sp, 94 350r/ser, 95 350s/ses, & 96 350t/set. > Some sections are more extensive than others. Most have specs.,( carb > settings, measurements, capacities ), wiring diagrams, cable & hose routing, > etc. I'm sure someone could find some useful info in them. If you're > interested & would send a couple of $ to cover postage, I would be more than > glad to send them to you. They are of no use to me. Thank you. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dualsport4@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) Do I have a stock carb? Date: 26 May 1999 12:35:51 EDT In a message dated 5/24/99 9:02:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dbloom@inow.com writes: << I have a '91 DR 350S and wonder if I have a stock carb. I notice that most similar bikes have a carb almost identical but they have a round pulley arrangement that that the throttle cable turns. Mine doesn't have that. Does anyone else have a '91 to compare to? The throttle cable has a direct line into the carb top and the spring is inside the carb body. Otherwise it looks much like other carbs. It is a Mukusi (sp?) Dave >> Dave, The '91 DR 350S and DR650 are the only bikes that came with a single throttle cable and do not have the bell pulley. (Don't know if the D.O.T. ever caught that one?) The best carb swap is to fit the DR350 dirt PUMPER carb on the 350S/E and use a '91 DR650 throttle cable and the throttle housing and manifold/air box boot from the '91 DR350. That Mikuni pumper is about the best carb they have ever made! Mike (425) 776-RIDE PS It is highly recommended that you replace the stock vacuum petcock with the DR350 dirt one............. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich <scotta@sr.hp.com> Subject: (dr350) T-venting the carb Date: 26 May 1999 10:46:32 -0700 I've finally seen the carb hesitation problem on my '98 DR350SE. I ride mostly trail, and don't normally get much air time. Last week I took my DR on the MX track and was shocked at the hesitation and burbling (best description I can think of) after doing the small jumps. I found that pulling out the choke seemed to clear it up, and I went ahead and replaced the spark plug just in case. What I'm going to do is leave it alone for now, and the next time I hit the track, if I see the hesitation (which I'm sure I will), I'll bring along a "T" and extra hose. The first mod I'll do is just route the line down and see what happens. The next mod I'll do is put the "T" in and see if I notice any difference. I'll report back what I find, but it may be a couple of weeks before I get the chance. Another thing I noticed which may be along the same lines is that when I start the bike in the morning, I use full choke, hit the button and she starts right up. But if I tip the bike to the right, I can make the motor stall out if I hold it there long enough. It doesn't seem to do it if I tip it to the left. -- Scott Aldrich ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) SERVICE MANUALS Date: 26 May 1999 10:59:12 -0700 Hi, Jesse responding to your message. The factory manuals start with the 90 year model and only publish updates not covered in the year behind so Items covered in your 97 supplement are only the changes from the years before, you will need the early sections of your manual. Jesse SMRGEO@aol.com wrote: > I bought a service manual for my 97 DR350 & about half of it is for other > bikes. There are sections on the 97 350s model, 91 350m, 91 350sm, 92 > 350n/350sn, 93 350p/sp, 94 350r/ser, 95 350s/ses, & 96 350t/set. > Some sections are more extensive than others. Most have specs.,( carb > settings, measurements, capacities ), wiring diagrams, cable & hose routing, > etc. I'm sure someone could find some useful info in them. If you're > interested & would send a couple of $ to cover postage, I would be more than > glad to send them to you. They are of no use to me. Thank you. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) SERVICE MANUALS Date: 26 May 1999 11:11:46 -0700 > There is very little information on the shock maintenance because Suzuki > (as well as Yamaha and Kawasaki) do not typically offer any internal shock > replacement parts. Yes, but replacing shock fluid every once-in-a-while is a must, IMO, and I would think they should have at least covered that procedure.... Bryan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Christian R." <Christian.Renninger@slip.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 650 RS Date: 26 May 1999 11:25:31 +0200 Oups I'm sorry... I was thinking about tachometer and I've writen Odometer... There is already an odometer but I wanted to add a tachometer on my DR650se ... thank you anyway.... -----Original Message----- > >> But does anyone know how to add an odometer on it ?? > >I'd recommend using a mtn bike computer. Start with: >http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm > >Instead of the magnet mounting method shown on that web site, I bought a >couple little (~1/8" diameter) rare earth magnets from radio shack. Drill a >hole in your brake rotor to just accomodate the magnets, stack them on top >of each other, and epoxy the two into that hole. They end up slightly less >in thickness of the rotor itself. > >Place the sensor (using a couple zip ties) so the end of the sensor (not the >middle) is close to where the magnets pass by. > >Zip tie the coax cable (see the web page) to the brake line, and run it up >to the handle bar mount. > >A front disk guard (like from Maier's) does a good job of protecting it all. > >Bryan >'96 DR441 >Sacramento > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: HAMMY28@aol.com Subject: (dr350) 1992 Plastic tank on a 98 DRS Date: 26 May 1999 16:18:42 EDT Does anyone know if the Plastic tank from a 1992 DR350 Dirt will work on a 98DRS. I can buy one for $125.00 used. I like it because it seems slimmer than the new IMS for the DRS. ether way Id like to put my stock one away before i dent or Scratch it or it dents me in the Knees. Also I think its white( the 92 DR that is?)or is it yellow? Mike N. Orlando, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) power loss Date: 26 May 1999 16:29:30 -0400 (EDT) I'll post this again and hope to get some responses.My friend and I have identical 98 DRSE models.He has the FMF megamax2 muffler and the carb jettet up to 135 from127.5. My bike is completely stock we raced to see his gains and my bike beat his by a good margin.What could be wrong with his bike?We are both shocked and confused I am now going to wait to buy my muffler till we figure this out.His upgrades cost him about 300 bucks and his bike is slower than a stock unit.I dont think he has all the discs in his muffler.What could be wrong? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) 1992 Plastic tank on a 98 DRS Date: 26 May 1999 13:54:13 -0700 Mike, I have a stock steel, a stock plastic, and an IMS. All have been in place at one time or another. The dirt-only OEM tank will fit, and the color is white, but you will need to have post/nuts braised on the side of the front of the frame oil reservoir. Drain your oil and remove the filler/dipstick before applying the heat. Then you need to buy the dirt seat/tank bracket ($10; The IMS comes with rear mounting bracketry) and front tank mounting hardware ($?; not req'd w/IMS) from the dealer. If you buy this $125 one then make sure you get as many parts as possible; the cost of hardware adds up fast. If you need the range, then go with the IMS; it is not really wider than the stock - althought it does *appear* so - it's actually taller and lower. The OEM plastic dirt tank stores 2.5 gal. of gas but the last 0.5 gal. hangs uselessly lower than the petcock; the IMS has the same strange setup. John HAMMY28@aol.com on 05/26/99 01:18:42 PM Please respond to HAMMY28@aol.com cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) Does anyone know if the Plastic tank from a 1992 DR350 Dirt will work on a 98DRS. I can buy one for $125.00 used. I like it because it seems slimmer than the new IMS for the DRS. ether way Id like to put my stock one away before i dent or Scratch it or it dents me in the Knees. Also I think its white( the 92 DR that is?)or is it yellow? Mike N. Orlando, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Service Manual & Our Resident Tech. Date: 26 May 1999 15:14:00 -0700 > I'd like to unofficially nominate Bryan as the hands-on tech. writer of the > group - anyone who can competently repair their own shock and thereafter write > an instructive, easy-to-understand tutorial deserves some honor; at the least be John, you're far too kind! > available for pesky, detailed questions from knuckle-headed mechanics like me. "Knuckle-headed" riding a self-built DR/MX441?? I don't _think_ so, Tim! :) Bryan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: HAMMY28@aol.com Subject: (dr350) EAR Exhaust on DR350SE Date: 26 May 1999 18:53:34 EDT I'm Thinking about purchasing a EAR Exhaust for my 98 DR350SE. The stock Pipe seems so damn Big and heavy. The EAR people say there is a 7% Power increase at the same noise level. it looks like its about 10 pound lighter to boot...I'd like to keep it at the same sound level. Also, I havent made any other mods on the engine. Mistake? What do you think? HAMMY ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Andy Foulkes" <andy@redcat.co.uk> Subject: (dr350) Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:59:13 +0100 Date: 26 May 1999 16:59:11 -0600 DR350R (Enduro Model) bored to 440cc. DEP silencer. Standard carb. Any ideas on jetting anyone? Thanks Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: (dr350) Bryan's Pat-on-the-Back. Date: 26 May 1999 16:55:07 -0700 OK; I can back up my claim. I'll give you one example of my lack of talent, maybe two. Or how about one of each: un-mechanic like traits and spodely skill? In my DR experience "infantcy", after cutting a fresh, big hole in the air box top, then adding some bigger carb jets, we loaded up the truck and we went to a fine high-desert riding spot (two-hour drive). Once the DR was fully warmed up, I began to test the limits, the fruit of my labor, by wacking the throttle to the stop and back, weaving between the shrubs; normally this is loads of fun. But the dang thing repeatedly sputtered and popped; once stopped, caught it's breath, then sputtered and popped again, over and over. This went on for the next 30 min or so until I couldn't take it anymore; surely it is loading up (too rich?) Once home I discovered the air boot had never been retighted; too much air was getting by (too lean ya dummy!) Now onto riding ability, or lack thereof (spode here.) We went to a family enduro this last Sunday; first one since quiting them 20 years ago, but this would be my oldest's first, at my wife's prompting - no kidding: she did want him to give it a try. (He ended up bypassing a gas stop and burning a check by 10 min.) Getting there the day before, we did a loop in that late afternoon. I ended up needing to adjust the clickers - first time ever(!), front and back, to get rid of some back-end kick (at rain cuts) and to add more front-end dive for riding the tight, technical terrain. The following test spins *seemed* to confirm I was adjusting in the right direction. The next morning brought the event. I told my son to try to stay on time, and get a real feel for timekeeping, but not to ride beyond his ability; he could just follow me if it seems confusing. I seemed to be doing fine until six miles out on the first loop; for some strange reason got out of shape in real deep sand whoops (I hate them. Too little fork rebound damping?); then being thrust forward, the bars dug into both thighs, and my body rotated and fell onto the top of a mogul. Bounce! Moaning and groaning followed. First thought was I pulled a muscle or fractured some ribs. Then after struggling to get this 300lb. bike upright, my son motors on by, not even stopping to say "you OK?" Mmmm - I did tell him go at his own pace. :-P Then the terrible suggestive thoughts came: you'll lose a kidney over this one, and, your out for six weeks, bud; maybe no more riding. Perish the thought! Being too proud to wait for sweep, I get back on and with ensuing pain fish through a few more miles of sand. Arrrggg! That hurt! At the next rest stop, I caught up to him to say, in a quiet tone (it was painful to move/ride/breath) "you can go the rest of the loop (gee, thanks dad); just stay with the other guy on our number"....and off I was to the truck. Being grateful for ending up with only three bruised ribs, my wife noticed I was moving like an old man (getting closer every day!); she quips "the old gray mare she ain't what she..." "hush...well, yes, but my last bike weighed 100 lbs less!" Some excuses get you sympathy. John Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> on 05/26/99 03:14:00 PM Please respond to Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) >> I'd like to unofficially nominate Bryan as the hands-on tech. writer of the >> group - anyone who can competently repair their own shock and thereafter write >> an instructive, easy-to-understand tutorial deserves some honor; at the least be >John, you're far too kind! >> available for pesky, detailed questions from knuckle-headed mechanics like me. >"Knuckle-headed" riding a self-built DR/MX441?? I don't _think_ so, Tim! >:) >Bryan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Date: 26 May 1999 17:03:26 -0700 Andy, I use #142.5 main, #40 or 42.5 pilot, stock slide and needle in mid position. How about you, Bryan? John "Andy Foulkes" <andy@redcat.co.uk> on 05/26/99 03:59:11 PM Please respond to "Andy Foulkes" <andy@redcat.co.uk> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) DR350R (Enduro Model) bored to 440cc. DEP silencer. Standard carb. Any ideas on jetting anyone? Thanks Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Phil <moto1@fgi.net> Subject: (dr350) (no subject) Date: 26 May 1999 19:47:26 -0500 unsubscribe ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: cheatley@top.monad.net Subject: (dr350) New Thoughts On Riding Date: 26 May 1999 20:49:50 +0000 Just got back last week from an awesome week of riding at the Motorcycling Vacation Resort in Sequatchie,TN. Thought I'd share a few thoughts: Lots of DRs to play on - from a 125s, 250s and a 350SE to two full on dirt 350s. Lodging was excellent - I went with a friend and as we were both very new to biking, we had the 2 day newbie package, then a day of trail riding after a day off sightseeing. I learned a lot about what the bike can and can't do (I rode the '95 350SE) and more importantly what I can and can't do :-) I would highly recommend this type of deal for those of us who are less experienced - it's great to watch a video of some bloke getting big air or tackling bogs and rivers, but trying it without some experienced guidance is nuts. As for the DR - I bought a '97350SE for $2700 two weeks before I left. I now know what a good choice this was. I've followed the threads re. mods/power/suspension etc and am convinced that for a modest outlay, this can be a very off road worthy bike with plenty of potential to not become boring. I did experience one episode of the infamous 'sideways kick' on bottoming the rental, but I will fix this on mine with a heavier rear spring and maybe go with the Koubas. For now though, I think I'll just learn to be a better rider and find some trails near my home in NH. As for Tennessee - good trails (lots of varied terrain and very competant guides - thanks Laura and Randy!), good maintenance tips (thanks Tony) and excellent food (I am now way too fat). Happy Riding Chris ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) EAR Exhaust on DR350SE Date: 26 May 1999 22:38:00 -0600 Hi there, Hammy. I think the claimed power increases are overstated with aftermarket exhaust. I put an EAR on my DRS (while the engine was still stock), and I couldn't notice anything except for more noise. If you do get an EAR, be sure to also get an exhaust deflector, else the exhaust gases will melt your fender. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) 90/90 tires Date: 26 May 1999 22:38:36 -0600 I have used a 90/90 front tire (MT21) for so long I don't remember the difference. By the way, I use the Race Tech cartrage emulators in the forks and I really feel they helped the steering precision - now much less vague. TW ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) MegaMax Date: 27 May 1999 00:44:19 -0400 (EDT) John, There may be several different factors giving you & your friend the results you are seeing. Very possibly unavoidable production tolerances may give you a slightly more powerful bike. Your friend's bike may need more fine tuning of the carb (jetting), also the less discs the closer to stock it gets. Different pipes increase power in different ways which may not show up in a drag race, IMHO from you have said I believe you have a slightly faster engine stock, it happens. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) EAR Date: 27 May 1999 00:49:55 -0400 (EDT) Hammy, I agree with Tom, the EAR will not increase power and the weight difference is minimal. It will be quieter than some others and looks better than stock, that is about all. Jim A. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam <squid@theracetrack.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: 90/90 tires Date: 26 May 1999 23:29:29 -0700 Gino wonders: > Anybody out there running a 90/90X21 (as opposed to the 100/?X21) on there > DR350SE? Any adverse affects? My DR350S (1992 model) has had a 90/90X21 MT-21 on it since I bought it. Never ridden it any other way, so nothing to compare it to. I had assumed that Suzuki never changed the width of the front rim over the DR model years... correct assumption? Brian - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Brian Bucknam squid@theracetrack.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) rim Date: 27 May 1999 07:30:16 -0400 (EDT) Banged the front rim on my 98SE up pretty bad the other day.It needs to be replaced.I wondered if anyone knows of a good place to get this.It will cost a fortune from the dealer.I got a buddy who just picked up a 90 drse last night and it needs a front rotor so we can both benefit from a front rim(and split up some of the cost) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TrailByker@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr350) EAR Exhaust on DR350SE Date: 27 May 1999 07:41:11 EDT Hammy; Just my biased 2 cents worth (okay, maybe 5 cents...) <I'm Thinking about purchasing a EAR Exhaust for my 98 DR350SE. > Spend the 200 plus bucks suspension improvements and opening/improving the intake side. <The stock Pipe seems so damn Big and heavy.> Actually it's the muffler that's big because it has to be to quiet the noise sufficiently. Also, due to how the exhaust gasses flow out through the discs (in a 360 deg pattern), you stand a very good chance of melting and/or discoloring the end of your rear fender with the EAR/SuperTrapp system. <The EAR people say there is a 7% Power increase at the same noise level. it looks like its about 10 pound lighter to boot...> What do you figure a DR puts out HP-wise? 30-35HP? A 7% increase would be less than 2.5 HP, if you even got that level of increase (the bike tested was a stock Honda XR600R). Find the actual weights of the stock muffler and the EAR system as you'd use it; I think you'll see there's not much savings. With a bike that already weighs close to 300 lbs, saving ten pounds is not gonna make much difference. I've read postings elsewhere regarding the EAR series of exhausts and none have been too praise worthy. If you just gotta have an aftermarket exhaust, go with the Yoshimura. It is the quietest of the "performance" exhausts, is very tuneable and is mucho expensivo.... <I'd like to keep it at the same sound level. Also, I havent made any other mods on the engine.> Keep the stock exhaust. Unless you're going to do major engine work (big bore kit, cam, carb work) you're wasting your money on the exhaust. <Mistake? What do you think?> I would get the bike to handle better, work the intake side (open the airbox, better flowing air filter, do the magic jet and needle trick and whatever else to keep the CV carb from hiccuping the minute you hit the dirt, etc.) and get a good set of street legal (DOT approved) kobbies. There's a good statement on the Baja Designs website about big 4-strokes and "performance" exhaust systems; it basically says you can improve the HP a little but the cost is a BIG increase in noise and the consideration of where you ride comes into play; it's pretty heady stuff from a company that makes it's business selling aftermarket stuff. IMHO, ride quietly so you can...... Mike '93 DR350 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) power loss Date: 27 May 1999 06:14:00 PDT I'll take a shot.... I too have a 135 main and a MegaMax2 muffler. Did your friend experiment w/ trying different disc combinations on the end of muffler? You can run it full open (LOUD!), w/ silencer core, with up to 11 discs, or any combination of the latter two. Also, did he adjust the pilot valve? I have the Scott T-handle pilot screw, which makes fine-tuning a snap; 3.25 turns out is where mine is happy, with all 11 disks on end of muffler (no quiet core). Did he replace stock needle & spring? I have the JX needle/spring sold by Thumper, & raised the needle one position from the middle where Thumper had it. Did he modify airbox & use new Uni or K&N filter? (dont get the K&N...its a bitch to install/remove). Doubt if it matters much, but I also used my Dremel tool to grind off an excessive bead weld on the inside of the stock header pipe. The above represents my mods, and I know for a fact that my 95SEset up as above is noticeably faster/stronger/more responsive than the stock 98 SE I demo'd from dealer. Your bud CAN get much better results than your stocker. If he has more time than money or doesnt like mechanical work, he should consider a shop that has a dyno that can get all the elements working in harmony for max effect. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >Reply-To: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) power loss >Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 16:29:30 -0400 (EDT) > >I'll post this again and hope to get some responses.My friend and I have >identical 98 DRSE models.He has the FMF megamax2 muffler and the carb >jettet up to 135 from127.5. My bike is completely stock we raced to see >his gains and my bike beat his by a good margin.What could be wrong with >his bike?We are both shocked and confused I am now going to wait to buy >my muffler till we figure this out.His upgrades cost him about 300 bucks >and his bike is slower than a stock unit.I dont think he has all the >discs in his muffler.What could be wrong? > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) EAR Exhaust on DR350SE Date: 27 May 1999 06:16:31 PDT Its not that much lighter...I was surprised to find how light the stocker was when I took it off. Also, I've heard mostly bad reports about the EAR for the DR350. Bryan in Dallas 95DR350SE >From: HAMMY28@aol.com >Reply-To: HAMMY28@aol.com >To: DR350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) EAR Exhaust on DR350SE >Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:53:34 EDT > >I'm Thinking about purchasing a EAR Exhaust for my 98 DR350SE. The stock >Pipe >seems so damn Big and heavy. The EAR people say there is a 7% Power >increase >at the same noise level. it looks like its about 10 pound lighter to >boot...I'd like to keep it at the same sound level. Also, I havent made any >other mods on the engine. > >Mistake? What do you think? > > >HAMMY > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" <efpoklu@sandia.gov> Subject: RE: (dr350) 90/90 tires Date: 27 May 1999 07:20:24 -0600 >>I have used a 90/90 front tire (MT21) for so long I don't remember the difference.<< Thanks for the info. A friend is selling his Metzeler MCE Six Days which are brand new for a very good price. The front is a 90/90. I didn't think there would be much difference, but you never really know. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gaylord" <gaylordb@redlion-controls.com> Subject: (dr350) WTB: DR350S near PA Date: 27 May 1999 09:28:48 -0400 Looking for a clean DR350S (or SE), within a couple hour drive of south-central PA. Thanks. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) T-venting the carb Date: 27 May 1999 07:28:43 PDT Scott Aldrich writes.... >But if I tip the bike to the right, I can make the >motor stall out if I hold it there long enough. It >doesn't seem to do >it if I tip it to the left. If I dump the bike and it falls on one side it bogs out and hesitates for a while. If it falls on the other side (left I think)then it continues to run fine after I upright it. What I have found as a cure is to pinch the vaccuum line running to the petcock with my fingers and hold it for a minute or two (this prevents more fuel from going into the carb) then at the same time I rev the bike up for a minute or too to burn what would appear to be extra fuel in the carb, then it runs fine. Doug ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: (dr350) Re: 441 jetting Date: 27 May 1999 09:05:59 -0700 john.gill@conexant.com wrote: > > Andy, > > I use #142.5 main, #40 or 42.5 pilot, stock slide and needle in mid position. > How about you, Bryan? I'm running a #140 main, #40 pilot, otherwise the same. Other pertinents: - 1000' to 5000' elevation - Airbox mod/TwinAir filter - 50% race gas (ostensibly to run cooler) - FMF Megamax exhaust Bryan > > John > > "Andy Foulkes" <andy@redcat.co.uk> on 05/26/99 03:59:11 PM > > Please respond to "Andy Foulkes" <andy@redcat.co.uk> > > To: dr350@lists.xmission.com > cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) > Subject: (dr350) Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:59:13 +0100 > > DR350R (Enduro Model) bored to 440cc. DEP silencer. Standard carb. Any ideas > on jetting anyone? > > Thanks > > Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) carb hose to petcock Date: 27 May 1999 13:30:18 EDT hi A bought my bike (93 drs) used with an acerbis tank, so what should i do with the vent hose that comes off the carb and into the petcock. As of now the hose comes off theb carb and just hangs under the tank. does anyone else have the 4.25 gallon acerbis tank? thanks bryant _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) carb hose to petcock Date: 27 May 1999 11:42:57 -0600 >A bought my bike (93 drs) used with an acerbis tank, so what should i do >with the vent hose that comes off the carb and into the petcock. As of now >the hose comes off theb carb and just hangs under the tank. cut it short and plug it.... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Charlie Vincent <Charlie@mail.j-e-morgan.com> Subject: (dr350) Part suppliers? Date: 27 May 1999 14:23:56 -0400 Ok. I'm ready to order the JX needle and spring, Scott's air needle, some various sizes of main jets, rear turn signals, and an air filer, but I don't have any contact numbers. Also, what air filter to you guys recommend along with rear turn signals? Thanks, Charlie ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) carb hose to petcock Date: 27 May 1999 11:22:10 PDT First of all, what goes from carb to petcock (other than the fuel line)is a VACUUM line; the VENT hose comes off the carb and (as stock) runs up into the frame....this is what we've been talking about "T-ing"--- sounds like you have a non-vacuum petcock on your tank (which is supposedly better), as you couldnt go anywhere if the vacuum hose from the carb wasnt connected to the petcock vacuum. If this is the case, I guess you should cut the vacuum line short & plug it up. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >Reply-To: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) carb hose to petcock >Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:30:18 EDT > >hi > >A bought my bike (93 drs) used with an acerbis tank, so what should i do >with the vent hose that comes off the carb and into the petcock. As of now >the hose comes off theb carb and just hangs under the tank. > >does anyone else have the 4.25 gallon acerbis tank? > >thanks >bryant > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) carb hose to petcock Date: 27 May 1999 11:23:12 PDT First of all, what goes from carb to petcock (other than the fuel line)is a VACUUM line; the VENT hose comes off the carb and (as stock) runs up into the frame....this is what we've been talking about "T-ing"--- sounds like you have a non-vacuum petcock on your tank (which is supposedly better), as you couldnt go anywhere if the vacuum hose from the carb wasnt connected to the petcock vacuum. If this is the case, I guess you should cut the vacuum line short & plug it up. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >Reply-To: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) carb hose to petcock >Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:30:18 EDT > >hi > >A bought my bike (93 drs) used with an acerbis tank, so what should i do >with the vent hose that comes off the carb and into the petcock. As of now >the hose comes off theb carb and just hangs under the tank. > >does anyone else have the 4.25 gallon acerbis tank? > >thanks >bryant > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) carb hose to petcock Date: 27 May 1999 11:23:40 PDT First of all, what goes from carb to petcock (other than the fuel line)is a VACUUM line; the VENT hose comes off the carb and (as stock) runs up into the frame....this is what we've been talking about "T-ing"--- sounds like you have a non-vacuum petcock on your tank (which is supposedly better), as you couldnt go anywhere if the vacuum hose from the carb wasnt connected to the petcock vacuum. If this is the case, I guess you should cut the vacuum line short & plug it up. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >Reply-To: "Bryant Wang" <bryantwang@hotmail.com> >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) carb hose to petcock >Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 13:30:18 EDT > >hi > >A bought my bike (93 drs) used with an acerbis tank, so what should i do >with the vent hose that comes off the carb and into the petcock. As of now >the hose comes off theb carb and just hangs under the tank. > >does anyone else have the 4.25 gallon acerbis tank? > >thanks >bryant > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) rim Date: 27 May 1999 13:20:06 -0700 John , any 21"" front rim will work as long as it has 36 spoke holes, a cycle wrecking yard should have a lot of them.The size is on your rim just get the same size and you will be fine. Jesse. john miller wrote: > Banged the front rim on my 98SE up pretty bad the other day.It needs to > be replaced.I wondered if anyone knows of a good place to get this.It > will cost a fortune from the dealer.I got a buddy who just picked up a > 90 drse last night and it needs a front rotor so we can both benefit > from a front rim(and split up some of the cost) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich <scotta@sr.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Part suppliers? Date: 27 May 1999 15:47:32 -0700 Charlie Vincent wrote: > > Ok. I'm ready to order the JX needle and spring, Scott's air needle, some > various sizes of main jets, rear turn signals, and an air filer, but I don't > have any contact numbers. Also, what air filter to you guys recommend > along with rear turn signals? I've gone through quite a few rear turn signals already. I'm buying a short stub type that looks like it should make it through a fall, but doesn't. I saw a guy with a Baja Designs kit and he had some cool flush mount type for his rear fender. I'm either going to buy that type next time or get the flexi-mount type from the Scott Summers catalog. The flexi-mount looks a little more legal even though they aren't DOT approved either. -- Scott Aldrich ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <dbragg@seatac.net> Subject: (dr350) rear turn signals Date: 27 May 1999 15:49:23 PDT I use the factory rear turn signals still, and have them mounted to a dogbone shaped piece of rubber - they have survived many falls. Someday I'll take a photo of them and post it on my web page. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: (dr350) DR441 Test ride Date: 27 May 1999 19:56:08 EDT John... Exactly... what I had a terrible time with this weekend in the open area of Gormon... deep sand whoops that had me being swallowed up and the rear end kicking sideways and the front end knifing into the soft sand...is it me or is it the DR??? Probably both... True our DRs are close to 300 lbs.... the chassis flexs... and I'm guessing both ends need more rebound damping (dampening?) or does the rear shock have too much rebound keeping the wheel from returning thus the seat kicking us in the butt??? I spend alot of time adjusting and testing and am never real happy with the way a DR handles but still the best bike I've ever owned ( and could afford!) It's the 91 dirt DR... Well get better and June 13th sounds good... could you email me direct again I lost it... Guy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "loren & julie bohl" <bohls@werewolf.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) master link and more! Date: 27 May 1999 21:45:07 -0500 unsubscribe -----Original Message----- Cc: dr350@lists.xmission.com <dr350@lists.xmission.com> >Hi, > >As far as the chain goes. The factory bike has a one piece NO masterlink chain, >if it has been changed , it most likely has a masterlink , which can be opened >up with a screwdriver and put back just as easy. It is like a "C" clip. one >note: it must be instaled in the correct way. > >On the valve issue. >The valve clearance decreases(gets smaller) as the engine warms up. and so as >when it wears out over the years. Do to cam to rocker arm contact , as the cam >rolls under the rocker arm , it slowly acts as a griding whell over the years. >And as the cam lobe or the rocker arm wears, that where the clearence comes in. >Valve and seat does not wear nearly as fast as cam& rocker. Unless the valve >actuly burns out. > >This experience is based on 12 years of valve adjustment on cars with same cam & >valve configuration. (Japanise cars) > >George > >Bryant Wang wrote: > >> Hello all >> I've been reading the list since the begining, but didn't post much cuz I >> don't have My license yet. >> >> anyway I've been collecting stuff for road side repairs. tire levers,co2 >> ,patches. I'm going to install a master link into the original chain, no big >> deal. Now come the questions >> >> 1.how do I open the master link on the trail? >> 2.Can u keep using the same link over and over? on, off, on, off? >> >> (here are some more questions) >> 3.On a '93 dr350s when valve clearances get off go they get bigger or >> smaller? >> >> 'bryant in brooklyn ny >> >> _______________________________________________________________ >> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) Part suppliers? Date: 27 May 1999 22:31:16 -0700 Charlie, Thumper racing has all of the parts you are looking for plus the technical help if needed, 1-800-259-5186 for orders or 903-938-3340 for technical info. Jesse Charlie Vincent wrote: > Ok. I'm ready to order the JX needle and spring, Scott's air needle, some > various sizes of main jets, rear turn signals, and an air filer, but I don't > have any contact numbers. Also, what air filter to you guys recommend > along with rear turn signals? > > Thanks, > Charlie ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) airfilter Date: 28 May 1999 01:36:05 -0400 (EDT) Charlie, I use TwinAir & WhitePower filters, they work well. K&N filters are a real bitch to mount on DR models. JA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) 7.6 kg shock spring for Kouba Link Date: 27 May 1999 22:44:10 -0700 Jim, try Race tech. Jesse RAld277@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 5/16/99 7:06:01 PM Central Daylight Time, jadler@webtv.net > writes: > > << Does anyone know off-hand which companies have these springs currently > in stock? > Jim A. > >> > White Brothers stocks Eiboch springs in all sizes. They even had an 8.1 kg > for my bike. They are about $80.00. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se> Subject: (dr350) air filter Date: 28 May 1999 11:58:41 +0200 Checked my e-mail and read some mails about air filters. I have a short comment on the KN. Somewhere on the internet I read a test of different types of air filters (not brands) but the KN is a special type. The conclusion was that KN flowed a lot of air BUT it didn=B4t clean the air as good as the oiled foam types.=20 That means: don=B4t buy KN for a dirt bike. Markus Skellefte=E5, Sweden ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "WDSRC" <wdsrc@gte.net> Subject: (dr350) Florida Dual Sport Ride Date: 28 May 1999 11:43:42 -0400 OKAY you Florida boys, it's time again for the Annual Devil's Creek Dual Sport Ride! Check it out on the WDSRC webpage and while you're there, print up an entry! http://www.geocities.con/Baja/Canyon/5245 Robert Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders Florida, USA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: (dr350) Fw: BOUNCE dr350@lists.xmission.com: Non-member submission from [DougB@aol.com] Date: 28 May 1999 10:07:00 -0600 >From: DougB@aol.com >Message-ID: <977b97ab.247f4762@aol.com> >Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:12:02 EDT >Subject: Dualsport Rally in Moab >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >MIME-Version: 1.0 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >X-Mailer: AOL NetMail version 2.0 > >Anyone from this list going to the rally in Moab? > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: (dr350) Review of 99 DR350SE on the WWW Date: 28 May 1999 10:55:14 PDT Just found a nice review of our favorite bike: http://www.motorsports-network.com/SUZUKI/dr350/dr350.htm The test rider mentioned that he "spun" the front tire (no rimlock). They mentioned they put new knobbies on it. I wonder what the likelihood is of doing this? Happen to anyone out there? I'd like to avoid a rimlock due to the balancing problem it creates and the increased difficulty of tire/tube changing. BUT... I dont want to get a flat on a Colorado mountain either :) Rim locks....really necessary or not? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Review of 99 DR350SE on the WWW Date: 28 May 1999 11:06:06 -0700 > > Rim locks....really necessary or not? I think it depends on what tire pressure you're running. For my dirt-only model, I run about 15 psi up front, and as low as 8 psi (for non-rocky conditions where traction is to be optimized). With these low pressures, I don't think there's much keeping the tire from spinning, so rim locks are probably a must. It's not as clear to me, however, what the answer is for a dual-sport version. Bryan '96 DR441 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger <cowger@core.rose.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Review of 99 DR350SE on the WWW Date: 28 May 1999 11:07:47 -0700 > > > > > Rim locks....really necessary or not? > > I think it depends on what tire pressure you're running. > > For my dirt-only model, I run about 15 psi up front, and as low as 8 psi > (for non-rocky conditions where traction is to be optimized). ^ in the rear. > > With these low pressures, I don't think there's much keeping the tire from > spinning, so rim locks are probably a must. > > It's not as clear to me, however, what the answer is for a dual-sport > version. > > Bryan > '96 DR441 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich <scotta@sr.hp.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Review of 99 DR350SE on the WWW Date: 28 May 1999 11:09:56 -0700 Bryan Nolastname wrote: > > Just found a nice review of our favorite bike: > > http://www.motorsports-network.com/SUZUKI/dr350/dr350.htm > > The test rider mentioned that he "spun" the front tire (no rimlock). They > mentioned they put new knobbies on it. I wonder what the likelihood is of > doing this? Happen to anyone out there? I'd like to avoid a rimlock due to > the balancing problem it creates and the increased difficulty of tire/tube > changing. BUT... I dont want to get a flat on a Colorado mountain either :) > > Rim locks....really necessary or not? I ride with the tire pressure low. I've never spun a tire, but I don't want to either. I put on rim locks almost immediately. -- Scott Aldrich ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Aldrich <scotta@sr.hp.com> Subject: (dr350) Stupid gripe Date: 28 May 1999 11:18:02 -0700 Rant mode on... Does the color change piss off anyone else as much as me? I bought the '98 DR350SE (white, purple, yellow or as others call it the Barney bike) with the hope that they would keep the color scheme consistent at least for a few years. But nooo, Suzuki changed the color scheme to white, black, blue and yellow the year after they came out with the Barney color scheme. D*mmitt, I know it's not that big of a deal, but it dates your machine when there is a color change and it makes finding graphics and things harder because the aftermarket people want to stay with the current stuff. Arrgghhh! Rant mode off... There, I feel better now... -- Scott Aldrich ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lees, John W" <John.Lees@PSS.Boeing.com> Subject: RE: (dr350) Stupid gripe Date: 28 May 1999 12:29:28 -0700 >>(white, purple, yellow or as others call it the Barney bike)<< Thanks for the chuckle, John Lees '93 dr350s pre-barney > ---------- > From: Scott Aldrich[SMTP:scotta@sr.hp.com] > Sent: 5/28/1999 11:18 AM > To: dr350 list > Subject: (dr350) Stupid gripe > > > > Rant mode on... > > Does the color change piss off anyone else as much as me? I bought > the '98 DR350SE (white, purple, yellow or as others call it the Barney > bike) with the hope that they would keep the color scheme consistent at > least for a few years. > > But nooo, Suzuki changed the color scheme to white, black, blue and > yellow the year after they came out with the Barney color scheme. > > D*mmitt, I know it's not that big of a deal, but it dates your machine > when there is a color change and it makes finding graphics and things > harder because the aftermarket people want to stay with the current > stuff. > > Arrgghhh! > > Rant mode off... > > There, I feel better now... > > -- > Scott Aldrich > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) turn signals Date: 28 May 1999 16:27:51 -0400 (EDT) I had a 94 Yamaha XT225 before I bought my DR.The best feature on the XT was the turn signals.You can literally bend them completely against the fender without coming close to breaking them.These are UNBREAKABLE turn signals.When I do break mine(I know I will) these will be my replacement.Stop by a Yamaha dealer and check em out!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Harald Glass <hglass@nexicom.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) turn signals and throttles Date: 29 May 1999 00:57:56 -0400 john miller wrote: > I had a 94 Yamaha XT225 before I bought my DR.The best feature on the XT > was the turn signals.You can literally bend them completely against the > fender without coming close to breaking them.These are UNBREAKABLE turn > signals.When I do break mine(I know I will) these will be my > replacement.Stop by a Yamaha dealer and check em out!!! Ditto on that mod! ...the only caveat: you'll have to splice in longer, DR-specific pig-tails and tweak the Yammy units to fit into the squared-off Suzi holders: a benchgrinder or a cobler's rasp and Pliobond will accomplish that task nicely. BTW: so much hot air about "Gorilla Snot"--3M weatherstrip adhesive-- about these days; BLIOBOND beats that stuff hands down! It's oil and fuel resistant, MEK promoted or air setting, forms a lovely membrane --not unlike the skin beneath an eggshell--to keep vital fluids in, such as on the oil pan and valve covers on a boxer (BMW G/S) The stuff sealed the fissures in a leaky SR500 tank in 1980: still tight as a drum. (and I'm a welder with considerable brazing skills) Liquid tuct-tape, never leave the house without it! I don't own stock in Pliobond (wish I did). Sidebar: Just found out the hard way that the healthy "push" throttle cable doesn't easily swap with the buggered "pull" cable on my '93 DR 350S. As Murphy's law would have it, the" pull" cable packed it in in the bush, just before sunset. Banking on my DR 370 experience, I thought that just switching the idle push cable over would pull me home. No dice, folks: they are NOT interchangable, but can be jerry-rigged, especially in black fly country, to get you home with less than full throttle. Big surprise after calling my authorized Suzuki dealer: 88.95 Can. smackers for a facory replacement, matched pair only. The nipples DISSOLVE into a puddle of monell, foiling any attempt of building up a custom job from salvaged parts. The culprit of that failure was water sneaking in at the adjuster of the Pull cable. Before it happens to you and the black flies or aligators eat you, chase out any moisture with silicone spray at that juncture and coat the mess with lithium grease, then cover with a "rain hood". Warning: if your (push-pull) throttle seems hesitant about returning, the rust gremlins are doing their thing to keep you from getting home for supper on time! Another emergency fix: the compression release, rerouted to work as a finger throttle! ('biler-experience certainly helps here for a smooth ride home) For less than 20 bucks you can buy a pukka after market ATV-Sled throttle and rig a slick 200 000 mile cable from braided, Teflon-lined cable from your local mountain bike shop, where they still stock that stuff by the yard (or metre, depending on your latitude). Cheers and happy trails, Harald in Millbrook (beyond the pale for cell phones) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) kouba links Date: 28 May 1999 23:05:23 -0700 Just, dial up njkouba@ix.netcom.com this is the guy that makes them. Jesse john miller wrote: > What are these so often talked of kouba links what do they do how much > are they?thanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com> Subject: (dr350) Test - Please ignore Date: 29 May 1999 15:55:12 +0100 Test ThunderSUB (Claudio) Lisbon, Portugal http://drive.to/thundersub http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html thundersub@bigfoot.com ICQ# [3072424] * 1982 Honda Dax 70 * 1993 Suzuki DR350S * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) seat strap Date: 29 May 1999 13:16:47 -0400 (EDT) Does that annoying seat strap have any purpose at all?I'd like to remove it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) seat strap Date: 29 May 1999 12:48:02 -0600 Does that annoying seat strap have any purpose at all?I'd like to remove it. None...that I can figure, I jettisoned mine last weekend... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) Re: slippin Tyres Date: 29 May 1999 13:49:39 -0500 For information purposes. Back in the early '70's, quite a few of the motorcross bikes of the day didn't have rim locks.... Bultaco JP Replica is the one I had back then. They use 4 sheet metal screws on each side which screwed into the tire bead and worked really well for us back then with low tire pressures for really muddy conditions. Then just take them out of changing a tire and no hassel of the rim lock... Wonder why this can not be used today?.. I'll for sure drill my rims and try it. Best Regards Andy Chesley '97 Suzy DR350SE '97 BMW R11RA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) Subject: (dr350) jx needle kit Date: 30 May 1999 00:23:27 -0400 (EDT) I have average mechanical skills and know nothing about carburaters.How hard is it to install the scott t-handle and the jx needle kit?Does the carb have to come out?I have about 200 bucks to burn on my bike it is completely stock any suggestions? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit Date: 29 May 1999 21:37:46 -0700 John you have a dr350s right? you must be on line now 9:38 pst jesse john miller wrote: > I have average mechanical skills and know nothing about carburaters.How > hard is it to install the scott t-handle and the jx needle kit?Does the > carb have to come out?I have about 200 bucks to burn on my bike it is > completely stock any suggestions? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit Date: 29 May 1999 22:35:35 -0700 John, the t-handle is simple it takes the place of your air screw located under the carb just in front of the bowl if its an S model it is probably plugged. But you have to remove the carb to change the needle. once the carb is out you remove the cap, diaphragm then the slide the needle is in the center of the slide. tip the carb upside down under the front spigot in the center you will find the air screw hole with a plug in it if yours is an s model remove the plug, then remove the air screw and install the tee handle air screw make sure the spring under the air screw is still in place.put your new needle in the slide reassemble the carb and re install on the bike hope this gives you some help any questions get back to me Jesse John wrote > I have average mechanical skills and know nothing about carburaters.How > hard is it to install the scott t-handle and the jx needle kit?Does the > carb have to come out?I have about 200 bucks to burn on my bike it is > completely stock any suggestions? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com> Subject: (dr350) Airbox / Please check http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html Date: 31 May 1999 00:19:10 +0100 Hi guys, I need your help ! I bought a used 1993 Suzuki DR350 S with 12.500 miles on the clock from a friend of mine. I have always been a RR Superbike kind of biker (you can check this at http://drive.to/thundersub ) so I don't understand much about dirt bikes. I have the DR for a little over 10 months now and use it only in dirt riding. My problem is, the bike seems a little under powered (or it's just me being used to the 150 hp R1 ?) at low revs. I can barely wheelie in second gear. I have to use the clutch and even with it, most of my wheelies suck... I have even dropped one tooth in the front sprocket but that wasn't much improvement. I have heard and read a lot of different stuff about the airbox and the air filter. My bike's engine was recently fully serviced so I know the engine is ok. I have a Twin Air dual stage air filter. So, I decided to check the airbox and found out that the first owner (the one before my friend) has done a little mod to it. Please check http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html and look at the pictures and tell me the effects of this huge hole on top of the airbox to power at lower revs. I am also planning to add a FMF Megamax slip-on and I was thinking about a Jet Kit. Speaking of Jet Kits, which are my options and what do you guys recommend ? Thanks ! ThunderSUB (Claudio) Lisbon, Portugal http://drive.to/thundersub http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html thundersub@bigfoot.com ICQ# [3072424] * 1982 Honda Dax 70 * 1993 Suzuki DR350S * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Subject: (dr350) Turn Signals Date: 30 May 1999 22:33:58 -0500 I knocked off the right rear turn signal today during a minor crash (dammit). Only my turn signal and my pride were hurt but luckily nobody was around to see. I have read over and over on this list about changing the turn signals or removing them before dirt riding but did I listen? Of course not. Kindly tell me where to get the replacement turn signals that sit up against the frame and can't be knocked off. Thanks Chuck Vokac - 92dr350s - Panama City, Florida ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Turnsignals Date: 30 May 1999 22:33:03 -0400 (EDT) Chuck, You can get some shorty turn siignals from WhiteBros or Dennis Kirk, they are called mini-stalk. WhiteBros also has black rubber flexilbe stalk holders that flex in case of a crash, I have used this combo and it works. The mini-stalk signals are cheaper than stock, also thay are non DOT but nobody will know the difference, they look like they came on the bike, usually can get them in white ior black. Jim A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) Airbox / Please check http://www.geocities.com Date: 31 May 1999 07:51:35 -0700 Claudio, Go hear and decide what you want to do: http://www.off-road.com/~unthank/dr350.html. As a general rule I recommend you spend an equal amount of $ in the suspension and engine to have balanced results. John "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com> on 05/30/99 04:19:10 PM Please respond to "ThunderSUB" <thundersub@bigfoot.com> cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html Hi guys, I need your help ! I bought a used 1993 Suzuki DR350 S with 12.500 miles on the clock from a friend of mine. I have always been a RR Superbike kind of biker (you can check this at http://drive.to/thundersub ) so I don't understand much about dirt bikes. I have the DR for a little over 10 months now and use it only in dirt riding. My problem is, the bike seems a little under powered (or it's just me being used to the 150 hp R1 ?) at low revs. I can barely wheelie in second gear. I have to use the clutch and even with it, most of my wheelies suck... I have even dropped one tooth in the front sprocket but that wasn't much improvement. I have heard and read a lot of different stuff about the airbox and the air filter. My bike's engine was recently fully serviced so I know the engine is ok. I have a Twin Air dual stage air filter. So, I decided to check the airbox and found out that the first owner (the one before my friend) has done a little mod to it. Please check http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/2630/dr/suzuki.html and look at the pictures and tell me the effects of this huge hole on top of the airbox to power at lower revs. I am also planning to add a FMF Megamax slip-on and I was thinking about a Jet Kit. Speaking of Jet Kits, which are my options and what do you guys recommend ? Thanks ! ThunderSUB (Claudio) Lisbon, Portugal http://drive.to/thundersub http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html thundersub@bigfoot.com ICQ# [3072424] * 1982 Honda Dax 70 * 1993 Suzuki DR350S * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryan Nolastname" <vfrman@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit Date: 31 May 1999 08:59:32 PDT Hey John- A few months ago, I had never been into a carb either...I also have "average" mechanical skills. For $200, you can make your bike alot more powerful & responsive. I think you must cut open the air box for any carb mods to be worthwhile, & putting in an aftermarket free-flowing airfilter. Stock exhaust will still be OK. I reckon I've had the carb off 5-6 times in the last couple of months! The only hard part about it is actually getting the carb off the bike...and thats hard only because you have to muscle/finess it out from between the airbox boot & intake boot. All you have to do is -loosen two clamps -remove the carb cable bracket thing & take cable ends out of their holes -pull the fuel, vacuum, & vent hoses from the carb (use masking tape to label them if you think you'll get confused); while you're at it, replace your stock black fuel line w/ some high quality clear line (clear lets you know for sure when no gas is flowing, and the black crap deteriorates quickly w/ age) -finally just wrestle the damn thing out from between the rubber boots on either end -re-install in reverse order, except put a thin film of slick stuff (Armor-all, oil, etc.) on the edge of the rubber boots to make things go it a bit easier. getting the carb properly seated back between the two boots is by far the most irritating task you can do on this bike! You have a little more room to maneuver if you remove the gas tank, but not necessary. While carb is off, here is what you'd want to do: -remove 2 screws from top cover of carb & lift top off. -spring should be hanging from top cover (this is what you replace w/ the JX spring) -if you simply tip the carb upside down, the needle will fall out into your hand (put JX needle back in its place, using the stock little washer thing that was on your needle) -put the top cover back on making sure the black rubber diaphram thing is well seated I think that you should also install a larger main jet since you've got the carb off- -remove 4 screws from bottom of carb -BE CAREFUL NOT TO MESS WITH THE ORANGE PLASTIC FLOAT ASSEMBLY (its easy to avoid....just dont take it out & play with it out of curiosity like I did) -the main jet is the highest point of anything metal that you'll be looking at....just screw it out, & install larger one in its place -put the carb bottom back on, making sure the thin black gasket is in place Installing the Scott T-handle: **good instructions come with it, but here is a re-cap so you'll know what to expect: -first, cover ALL OPENINGS ON CARB W/ ALLUMINUM FOIL TO KEEP METAL PARTICLE FROM GETTING IN....THIS MEANS THE VENT TUBE, VACUUM TUBE, FUEL LINE TUBE, AND BOTH LARGE OPEN ENDS -while carb is off, turn it upside down so looking at bottom -while looking at the edge of the carb that would be facing the engine when installed, the highest point in the middle of that edge is where the pilot valve is....you have to carefully, slowly drill through about 3/8" of magnesium to get to the valve THIS IS THE RISKIEST THING YOU WILL BE DOING! GO TOO DEEP TOO QUICK, & YOU RISK DRILLING OFF THE SCREWDRIVER SLOT ON THE VALVE, THEREBY HAVING NO WAY TO REMOVE IT! -when you get the hole the right size, you then have to cut/grind/file (Dremel tool w/ cut off wheel is the easiest way to go) the very stuff you've been drilling through down about 3/8" or so to give the T-handle room to clear the starter when you reinstall carb -before you remove the stock pilot valve, invert carb & blow all metal shavings out of hole & off carb surface! Buy a poor-man's air compressor (can of compressed air for cleaning computer keyboards from any office supply store) to do this right. -then instead of removing the valve by simply unscrewing it, screw it IN first, counting the number of turns you need to make it seat....this will tell you how many turns out you should start your T-handle at -take pilot valve all the way out & replace w/ the T-handle, screwed out the same number of turns your stock valve was. -all of the above (w/ exception of a few of my own thoughts) is in the instructions that come with the T-handle, along w/ proper drill bit (I think...cant remember; if not, it tells you the size to use) & exact amount to cut off of the valve housing The size of the main jet you install is up to you: if you dont mind taking the carb off several times to get the right jetting, just go up in size one size at a time (skip the first size up from your stock size: 93-98 DR350SE's stock settings are 127.5 main, 37.5 pilot). If you dont want to ever take the damn carb off again, install a main that is 2 sizes up from you stock, and you will get some improvement, and there is almost no way you'd be running too rich. I'm 3 sizes over stock (135 from 127.5) w/ pilot 3.25 turns out, JX needle raised one notch from the middle, and am still a little lean, but I put on a MegaMax exhaust as well. Hope this has helped. Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE >From: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >Reply-To: MILLFAM@webtv.net (john miller) >To: dr350@lists.xmission.com >Subject: (dr350) jx needle kit >Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 00:23:27 -0400 (EDT) > >I have average mechanical skills and know nothing about carburaters.How >hard is it to install the scott t-handle and the jx needle kit?Does the >carb have to come out?I have about 200 bucks to burn on my bike it is >completely stock any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: <john.gill@conexant.com> Subject: (dr350) Hot Tip: Push-Pull Throttle Cable Elimination Date: 31 May 1999 08:33:42 -0700 I have been on a quest to eliminate the carpal-tunnel-syndrome-nightmare of a setup with the stock push-pull DR cable. I tried removing the push cable over the last year, but the remaining play in the housing created some binding to remain on the pull side due to slop. On a hunch I stopped at Larry Roesler's shop (Stroker) the other day and ended up buying a new cable & housing. Have your dealer order these parts (Motion Pro is the maker): the CR-like complete throttle #01053 ($17), and the special cable #01648 ($20). It works better than tossing the stock push cable. And I do not get vacuum binding of the carb slide like some say. John ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jessekientz <jesse@is-plus.net> Subject: (dr350) Re: DR350 S or dirt model? Date: 31 May 1999 15:18:40 -0700 OK claudio here we go, no 1. air box is a must I have taken the bull by thee horns and have developed an aluminum air box similar to the magic air box that is no longer being manufactured and have made some major improvements. This would be your first step. This will add between 4 to 7 hp with no other mods. 2. Install the larger after market larger headpipe and a megamax exhaust with the large and matching reciever end so the headpipe will slip in. . I have had to cut off the reciever bore it out and weld it back on . . White bros. makes the least expensive head pipe, thumper makes a ceramic coated one that is of a higher quality but also cost more. 3.The nex t step is the thumper 435 big bore kit I have had excellent performance and reliability results with this system they use the nascar wrist pin that seems to hold up better the others. Still in sevice after four + years of operation. 4. Megacycle Cam mild grind with R&D springs and rocker arm hard reface. This gives the top end power, but without it great low end but falls off sooner on the top. 5. Carb rebore {dirt model only} 2 mm larger lets every thing breath better. I run a 13-52 sprocket for dirt only operation which I like in the technical areas and I have 6 speeds to open things up.The top end power is awsome and the low end is good for pulling stumps. I have offered an initial price of $210.00 for the air box to the guys on the list but not sure how long I can do this. Will have units to ship in about two weeks. 1. Vortex airbox $ 210.00 2.Head pipe White Bros.$69.00 3.Megamax exhaust $ 219.00 4 Thumper Big bore parts kit. $240. 5.Install sleeve and fit pistion.$125. 6.Teardown and reassemble top end.$110. 7. Reseat valves if needed. $ 40. 8.Bore out carb 2mm $85.{ dirt model only} 9. Cam, springs,and rocker arm hard surfacing $324. These are the existing catalog prices and are subject to change but gives you an idea as to the costs involved, these mods can be done in stages also. Jesse ThunderSUB wrote: > Hi Jesse, > > Sure I want to make my DR more powerful ! > > Looking forward for your advice and expertise ! > > Thanks in advance ! > > It's a DR350 S model. > > > Claudio, would you like to make your dr go? I can help you if you > do > > Dr's are my specialty I have done four of them and they all rip.If > you > > are interested get back to me. Jesse > > ThunderSUB (Claudio) > Lisbon, Portugal > http://drive.to/thundersub > http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/r1/index.html > http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/speed/speed.html > http://www.ip.pt/~ip203789/virago/virago.html > > thundersub@bigfoot.com > ICQ# [3072424] > > * 1982 Honda Dax 70 > * 1993 Suzuki DR350S > * 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "WDSRC" <wdsrc@gte.net> Subject: (dr350) Street Legal Dirt Bike Date: 31 May 1999 22:08:02 -0400 Hello Listers! Please Check Out The WDSRC Website for information on how to make your off-road motorcycle street legal. Two of our members will walk you through the entire procedure.! They did it for their XR400s! This page IS NOT TO BE PLACED ON ANY OTHER WEBSITE, but you can direct people to our home page. While you're there, check out the rest of the site, we're sure you'll like what you see. Thanks for riding with us! Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 Robert Frey WDSRC "Dual Sporting Florida And The South Eastern U.S.!" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: charles w vokac <cvokac@juno.com> Subject: (dr350) Trailers Date: 01 Jun 1999 01:13:41 -0500 I spent the weekend with a 4'x8' trailer I borrowed from a friend. It has 12" tires and rolls pretty smoothly but what a pain in the butt it is loading and unloading the bike. It makes me want one of those lift carriers that fits on a class 3 hitch and makes me sorry I put a class 2 hitch on my car. I think the ideal setup for hauling your bike on the back of a pickup. One thing I learned is to use a 6" or wider board - nothing narrower - to unload the bike from the trailer otherwise the bike falls off the board too easily when unloading.. Thanks to the person who suggested the trailer from Harbor Freight but I am afraid the rather small 8" wheels may be a problem on the highway. I hear that wheels smaller than 11 or 12 inches spin so fast at highway speeds they go flat easily. I am trying to find a used trailer but nobody here in Panama City seems to be selling them this time of year. p.s. Thanks to the person who suggested the mini stalk rear turn signals from Dennis Kirk. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "bisho6" <Bisho6@home.com> Subject: Re: (dr350) jx needle kit Date: 31 May 1999 22:38:37 -0700 Please help, I live in Antioch California (about 40 minutes from San Francisco) and have been unable to locate any used (unthrashed, realistically riced) DR350s for sale. I've tried the trader, excite, hotcoco.com classifieds, etc. Please help... do you have any suggestions? ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:59 AM