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dr-digest           Thursday, June 22 2000           Volume 01 : Number 182



(dr) 650 woes continue ...
Re: (dr) DR350 footpegs...
Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350
Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350
Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350
Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350
RE: (dr) lost bolts on 350

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 20:29:28 -0700
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 650 woes continue ...

OK, maybe y'all can give me some advice ...

My 97 DR650 (new in November of 99) has been eating Motul 3100 10W40 - 1
quart in 900 miles over one 2-week period recently.  When I initially
mentioned this to my dealer, he brushed it off as being normal for a big
single doing 75mph down I-5 on the weekends.  Not convinced, I had a
different shop do a leak-down test, which came out at 22%.  The Suzuki
warranty rep initially tried to blame the problem on my going to the Motul
at 6k miles, but then agreed to replace the rings etc., insisting that I
have my own dealer do the work, and calling him to authorize it.

I took it in, but my dealer was not convinced and dyno'd the bike - says the
power is right up there and the plugs are clean.  Also denies seeing any
puffs of smoke from the pipe after 'hot stops.'  He thinks that the oil is
being sucked back into the airbox and - get this - advised me to install a
PCV valve in the crankcase breather hose.  I asked him to do a 2nd leak-down
test, as he feels that the other dealer didn't do it correctly, owing to the
automatic decompression.  He replied that it's so much work to remove the
tank and all, and he doesn't even know how to ensure that it's at TDC with
the decompression closed (thus, how could the other dealer have done the
test correctly?)

Now, please correct me if I'm wrong, but would the PCV valve not end up
pressurizing the crankcase and blowing every gasket in sight??  I've drained
some oil from the airbox, but certainly not quarts of it.  I ascribe the
recent increase in drainage to increasing blow-by.  I'd like to take the
bike to the second dealer, but Suzuki seems to insist that you stick with
whom you bought the bike from.  I'll be calling the warranty rep again
tomorrow.

Advice??




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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:02:55 -0700
From: Mike Nielson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 footpegs...

I've got two DR350's and I've always found stand-up trail riding to
be uncomfortable on them.  Then recently I swapped bikes for a stretch
of trail with someone when we were riding together and he pointed out
to me that raising the handlebars will correct that problem.  Doh!
Why didn't I think of that?  I've already got Renthal CR-hi bars
on both bikes (which I believe is about as high as Renthals get.)
So per the recommendation of my riding buddy I've just purchased a
set of Thumper Racing "bar risers" that move the bars forward 1.5"
and up 1".  (You can also get them with 1.5" rise as an option.)
Haven't had a chance to install them yet, but I'm anxious to see if
it cures the stand-up riding problem.  (BTW - I'm 6 feet tall.)

Anyone else observed the same thing about your DR?  Maybe the bar risers have
the same effect as moving the footpegs down and/or back??

- - Mike


On Thu, Jun 22, 2000 at 10:02:02PM -0400, [e-mail] wrote:
>
> Did I remember right... you guys were going to post pictures of custom
> footpegs that were rearset 1"?   it looks like it will take some creative
> welding but seems with Jimmy Button High bars and pegs back an inch would
> open up the cockpit for riders 6' and up!

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:17:14 -0700
From: Mike Nielson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350

> I've tried bolts from the hardware store, but the threads are very low
> quality, so I prefer to get OEM bolts.

Yeah I hear you, but I still don't typically like paying dealer prices for
replacement nuts and bolts.  I was real excited recently to discover a web
site for ordering high-quality metric hardware online:

   http://www.metricspecialties.com

I placed my first order with them a week ago and got my stuff a few
days later.  I spent about $16 with them to substantially replenish
my spare nuts and bolts collection.  I thought the prices were very
reasonable, the quality and selection were superb, and it beat the
heck out of chasing from hardware store to hardware store looking
for that one $0.25 metric bolt to replace something you've lost.
I've got enough stuff in my spares collection now that I shouldn't
run out for a while :-)


> A word to the wise, use some sort of thread locking compound on every bolt
> that you frequently remove during normal maintenance, because it will surely
> loosen up and fall out while riding.

Couldn't agree more!

- - Mike

- --

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:51:00 -0600
From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350

Mike,
I cannot get the site to come up, but am interested to know, do they carry
titanium and or alum. metric bolts and nuts?  Really appreciate you posting the
address, metric stuff is really hard to find here in Boise, Idaho too.  Thanks,
Norm
- -
Dr. DR
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299


Mike Nielson wrote:

> > I've tried bolts from the hardware store, but the threads are very low
> > quality, so I prefer to get OEM bolts.
>
> Yeah I hear you, but I still don't typically like paying dealer prices for
> replacement nuts and bolts.  I was real excited recently to discover a web
> site for ordering high-quality metric hardware online:
>
>    http://www.metricspecialties.com
>
> I placed my first order with them a week ago and got my stuff a few
> days later.  I spent about $16 with them to substantially replenish
> my spare nuts and bolts collection.  I thought the prices were very
> reasonable, the quality and selection were superb, and it beat the
> heck out of chasing from hardware store to hardware store looking
> for that one $0.25 metric bolt to replace something you've lost.
> I've got enough stuff in my spares collection now that I shouldn't
> run out for a while :-)
>
> > A word to the wise, use some sort of thread locking compound on every bolt
> > that you frequently remove during normal maintenance, because it will surely
> > loosen up and fall out while riding.
>
> Couldn't agree more!
>


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:34:58 -0700
From: Mike Nielson <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350

Hi Norm (and interested list-eners):

The site is working for me.   I tried it now and I also tried it
just before I made my original reply earlier this evening.  The main
page incorporates a bit of animation which probably means they've
got some embedded Java script in their site.  For the non-computer
types on the list, this means you may need to make certain that your web
browser is up-to-date if you intend to access this site (and many
others these days!) and that Java is enabled within your browser.

I didn't see any titanium stuff on the Metric Specialties site (though
I wasn't shopping for any) but they do have a good selection of stainless
steel, zinc-plated steel, and some aluminum.  But give them a call.
I called them to ask a few questions about my order before submitting
it and they were very helpful.

One thing about ordering stuff like this online is that you've
gotta first get all the sizes and terminology straight in your mind.
There are no pictures or diagrams on the web site.  Regarding sizes,
anything on your DR with a 10mm hex head is an M06-1.0 thread.
Anything with a 12mm hex head is an M08-1.25 thread (but note that
M08 stuff you order from these guys appears to all have a 13mm hex
head, not 12mm - a minor drawback for guys like me who would rather
not have to carry an extra couple of tools in my off-road fanny pack.)
Look at http://bigben.stanford.edu/docs/ScrewHeads.htm for some examples of
screw heads.  When ordering, your typical hex-head bolt would be referred
to as a "hex head cap screw".

As for visualizing screw length, take a look at http://www.unitwiz.com
for an anything-to-anything calculator.  Very handy for guys like me
who think in inches, not mm.

Hope this info is helpful to some of you on the list!

- - Mike


On Thu, Jun 22, 2000 at 10:51:00PM -0600, njkouba wrote:
> Mike,
> I cannot get the site to come up, but am interested to know, do they carry
> titanium and or alum. metric bolts and nuts?  Really appreciate you posting the
> address, metric stuff is really hard to find here in Boise, Idaho too.  Thanks,
> Norm
> -
> Dr. DR
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
>
>
> Mike Nielson wrote:
>
> > > I've tried bolts from the hardware store, but the threads are very low
> > > quality, so I prefer to get OEM bolts.
> >
> > Yeah I hear you, but I still don't typically like paying dealer prices for
> > replacement nuts and bolts.  I was real excited recently to discover a web
> > site for ordering high-quality metric hardware online:
> >
> >    http://www.metricspecialties.com
> >
> > I placed my first order with them a week ago and got my stuff a few
> > days later.  I spent about $16 with them to substantially replenish
> > my spare nuts and bolts collection.  I thought the prices were very
> > reasonable, the quality and selection were superb, and it beat the
> > heck out of chasing from hardware store to hardware store looking
> > for that one $0.25 metric bolt to replace something you've lost.
> > I've got enough stuff in my spares collection now that I shouldn't
> > run out for a while :-)
> >
> > > A word to the wise, use some sort of thread locking compound on every bolt
> > > that you frequently remove during normal maintenance, because it will surely
> > > loosen up and fall out while riding.
> >
> > Couldn't agree more!
> >

- --

- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:36:59 -0400
From: Kong-Wei Lye <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350

my brother (who taught me how to fix minor problems with my car) always
told me that i should use spring washers to provide some tension for the
bolt and nut so that they won't loosen from the vibration when driving on
the road.

but this is a good warning for me to take note of any missing bolt/nut
after every ride....


- --On Friday, June 23, 2000, 8:16 PM -0700 Doug B <[e-mail]> wrote:

> Last Weekend I took my newly acquired 1997 DR 350SE for it's maiden
> voyage. I had fun, but the bike did not fair to well.  I have had to
> spend about $25.00 (plus $12.00 for 2nd day freight) to replace all the
> bolts and parts that fell out and got lost while riding.
>
> I've tried bolts from the hardware store, but the threads are very low
> quality, so I prefer to get OEM bolts.
>
> A word to the wise, use some sort of thread locking compound on every bolt
> that you frequently remove during normal maintenance, because it will
> surely loosen up and fall out while riding.
>
> I had learned this lesson on my 94 model, but all the bolts I lost on the
> 97 were bolts I never had problems with on the 94.
>
> I sold the 94 350SE yesterday, and am going to enjoy the 97 since it has
> far fewer miles on it.
>
> This weekend I am heading to Lake Wenatchee (Washington) for a Dual Sport
> event on Sunday.
>
> My next event is the King of Dual Sport events in the Pacific Northwest,
> the Black Dog, a 2 day event near Mt Hood Oregon.  It is July 8 and 9.
> E-mail me if you'd like details on it. They are also having a street
> touring ride this year at the event.
>
> Oh, I finally got my GPS III+ mounted up on the bike.  I used it over the
> weekend and love it!!
> I ventured way up into the hills and rode some Jeep trails.  I would never
> have ventured as far out as I did in an unfamiliar area if I didn't have
> the GPS.  I loaded maps into it using Garmin's Map Source TOPO cds.  Most
> of the trails I rode showed up on the GPS maps.
>
> I owe a great deal of thanks to all the people who provided me with their
> advice, tips and experiences regarding GPS units.
>
> Doug
> 97 DR 350 SE





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 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:43:18 -0700
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) lost bolts on 350

Mike, I just sent some photos of the rearset footpegs but your bigfoot
address returned it to me do you have an address where I can send it?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Mike Nielson
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 10:35 PM
To: njkouba
Cc: DR list
Subject: Re: (dr) lost bolts on 350


Hi Norm (and interested list-eners):

The site is working for me.   I tried it now and I also tried it
just before I made my original reply earlier this evening.  The main
page incorporates a bit of animation which probably means they've
got some embedded Java script in their site.  For the non-computer
types on the list, this means you may need to make certain that your web
browser is up-to-date if you intend to access this site (and many
others these days!) and that Java is enabled within your browser.

I didn't see any titanium stuff on the Metric Specialties site (though
I wasn't shopping for any) but they do have a good selection of stainless
steel, zinc-plated steel, and some aluminum.  But give them a call.
I called them to ask a few questions about my order before submitting
it and they were very helpful.

One thing about ordering stuff like this online is that you've
gotta first get all the sizes and terminology straight in your mind.
There are no pictures or diagrams on the web site.  Regarding sizes,
anything on your DR with a 10mm hex head is an M06-1.0 thread.
Anything with a 12mm hex head is an M08-1.25 thread (but note that
M08 stuff you order from these guys appears to all have a 13mm hex
head, not 12mm - a minor drawback for guys like me who would rather
not have to carry an extra couple of tools in my off-road fanny pack.)
Look at http://bigben.stanford.edu/docs/ScrewHeads.htm for some examples of
screw heads.  When ordering, your typical hex-head bolt would be referred
to as a "hex head cap screw".

As for visualizing screw length, take a look at http://www.unitwiz.com
for an anything-to-anything calculator.  Very handy for guys like me
who think in inches, not mm.

Hope this info is helpful to some of you on the list!

- - Mike


On Thu, Jun 22, 2000 at 10:51:00PM -0600, njkouba wrote:
> Mike,
> I cannot get the site to come up, but am interested to know, do they carry
> titanium and or alum. metric bolts and nuts?  Really appreciate you
posting the
> address, metric stuff is really hard to find here in Boise, Idaho too.
Thanks,
> Norm
> -
> Dr. DR
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
>
>
> Mike Nielson wrote:
>
> > > I've tried bolts from the hardware store, but the threads are very low
> > > quality, so I prefer to get OEM bolts.
> >
> > Yeah I hear you, but I still don't typically like paying dealer prices
for
> > replacement nuts and bolts.  I was real excited recently to discover a
web
> > site for ordering high-quality metric hardware online:
> >
> >    http://www.metricspecialties.com
> >
> > I placed my first order with them a week ago and got my stuff a few
> > days later.  I spent about $16 with them to substantially replenish
> > my spare nuts and bolts collection.  I thought the prices were very
> > reasonable, the quality and selection were superb, and it beat the
> > heck out of chasing from hardware store to hardware store looking
> > for that one $0.25 metric bolt to replace something you've lost.
> > I've got enough stuff in my spares collection now that I shouldn't
> > run out for a while :-)
> >
> > > A word to the wise, use some sort of thread locking compound on every
bolt
> > > that you frequently remove during normal maintenance, because it will
surely
> > > loosen up and fall out while riding.
> >
> > Couldn't agree more!
> >

- --

- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #182
************************

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