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dr-digest            Monday, June 19 2000            Volume 01 : Number 178



RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
(dr) Jetting / Airbox
(dr) Moab 2000
RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
RE: (dr) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>]
[none]
RE: (dr) Jetting / Airbox

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 07:42:44 -0700
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S

Hi Kong Wei, welcome to the list, on the rear brake caliper you must first
remove the guard and then the small socket head pins to get at the pads. At
times these socket head pins will seize up in the threaded area of the
caliper and in worse case have to be drilled out and replaced.  If you are
lucky and they come right out, a small amount of anti seize compound on the
threads will help for the next time you have to change pads. If you have
more questions about this or the bike in general please feel free to contact
me.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Kong-Wei Lye
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 9:27 PM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S


Hello all,

Newbie here. Just bought the bike a few weeks ago and just joined the list
today, so I'd appreciate any help.
I tried to change the rear brake pads on the bike a few days ago but
couldn't find any nuts or bolts to turn. It is unlike the front calipers
where the bolts are very consipicuous.
Has anybody done this before? Would appreciate if you could tell me how it
is done.

Kong-Wei.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:54:35 +0100
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Jetting / Airbox

Well, almost got the jetting right now.

Raised the needle from position four (standard setting) to the bottom (5th)
which reduced the pre-ignition greatly. However it still does it a bit even
though I'm now on a 142.5 main which didn't really improve the pinking from
the 137.5 (or performance).

So do I need to get a different (smaller?) needle jet to fix the
pre-ignition completely ?

Thanks for any ideas

Steve
DR350S '98

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:17:28 -0700
From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Moab 2000

Good morning all,

    We wanted to take a few minutes to thank ALL the people who gave much
more than a few minutes of their time to bring us the Moab 2000 rally. I
don't know all the people that helped, but specifically want to thank
Gino Pokluda as rally organizer, Fred Hink (Arrowhead Motorsports) as
rally sponsor, and Kurt Simpson (editor, Dual Sport News) sponsor (?).
    You all helped put on a great event that many people really enjoyed.
You were good representatives of the city of Moab, the state of Utah,
and the National Parks of the area. They are all indebted to you for the
business you brought them. Everywhere we went we were treated well. We
had good accommodations, great food, and arguably the best dual sport
riding available in this country.
    Again, our thanks. We are already planning to be at Moab again next
year. But please, order up some cooler weather! (our only complaint)
Wayne Marsula, Escondido, CA
Mike Corcoran, Ramona, CA
Jeff Corsaro, San Diego, CA
- --
********************************************************************
        Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
        "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club - California Field Representative
            http://www.mikthebik.com/
=======================================================================
MB-5    S-65    S-90    CT-90    SS-125    CA-95    CL-160
CB-200    TL-250    CB77    CL77    CA77    CB350-4    CB400F
    CB500-4    B-550F    CB750F    CB900F    GL1100
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
    Suzuki DR350SE.... Ready for some Dual Sportin' .............
AND........ A Proud Member of the: *NATIONAL*RIFLE*ASSOCIATION*

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:14:44 -0400
From: Kong-Wei Lye <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S

I just got back from the mechanic 1/2 hr ago. He changed the pads for me
and I noticed that he did what you described. He used an allen key to
unscrew the 2 long screws and was able to take out the old pads and put in
the new ones.

I almost wanted to remove the whole wheel to get the caliper out. Well,
paid for a lesson today. I should be able to do it myself the next time.

Looking forward to receiving my Clymer's manual from amazon.com.

Thanks to all who helped. I really appreciate it.


- --On Monday, June 19, 2000, 7:42 AM -0700 "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com"
<[e-mail]> wrote:

> Hi Kong Wei, welcome to the list, on the rear brake caliper you must first
> remove the guard and then the small socket head pins to get at the pads.
> At times these socket head pins will seize up in the threaded area of the
> caliper and in worse case have to be drilled out and replaced.  If you are
> lucky and they come right out, a small amount of anti seize compound on
> the threads will help for the next time you have to change pads. If you
> have more questions about this or the bike in general please feel free to
> contact me.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Kong-Wei Lye
> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 9:27 PM
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Newbie here. Just bought the bike a few weeks ago and just joined the list
> today, so I'd appreciate any help.
> I tried to change the rear brake pads on the bike a few days ago but
> couldn't find any nuts or bolts to turn. It is unlike the front calipers
> where the bolts are very consipicuous.
> Has anybody done this before? Would appreciate if you could tell me how it
> is done.
>
> Kong-Wei.
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>





- -
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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:28:51 -0700
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>]

Hi Brian, Just take the old one if it looks bad to your dealer or a bearing
supply store and they can sell you a new one. If that is no help I will send
you one.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 3:16 AM
To: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]: Non-member submission
from [Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>]



- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 10:06 PM
Subject: BOUNCE [e-mail]: Non-member submission from [Brian
Hannigan <[e-mail]>]


> >From [e-mail] Sun Jun 18 22:06:17 2000
> Received: from [24.2.8.66] (helo=mail.rdc2.occa.home.com ident=imail)
> by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.12 #2)
> id 133spF-0002yY-00
> for [e-mail]; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:06:17 -0600
> Received: from cx54920-a ([24.1.151.219]) by mail.rdc2.occa.home.com
>           (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP
>           id <20000619040615.LDQF20009.mail.rdc2.occa.home.com@cx54920-a>
>           for <[e-mail]>; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:06:15 -0700
> Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20000618210221.0083fe00@mail>
> X-Sender: brihan@mail
> X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.3 (32)
> Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:02:21 -0700
> To: [e-mail]
> From: Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (dr) (DR 350) High Idle
> In-Reply-To: <[e-mail]>
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> >About 15 miles into the ride a problem developed that has
> >me puzzled. When I let off the throttle my engine started staying at a
> higher
> >idle and the only way I could get the idle to come down was to use the
rear
> >brake to slow the engine down. The idle would then fall off to normal.
>
> I have the exact same problem and Jesse & other gave me the same advice
> about the o-ring.
>
> http://www.dr350.com/NonCGI/Forum5/HTML/000024.html
>
> My question is..... where do I get this o-ring. Is it part of a carb
> rebuild kit from Suzuki or am I just looking for the o-ring?
>
> If I get the JX needle & spring kit will this o-ring come with it?
>
> As always, thanks for all the help.
>
> Brian
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:14:56 -0400
From: [e-mail]
Subject: [none]

Dear friends and family,

I was forwared the following story "Dirt Roads" by Ivan Liechty, who had
it sent to him by Tonie Louder.  As of this moment, I do not know who the
author is, but we are searching so as to give credit where credit is due.

Having been raised in a neighborhood where the streets were not paved
until I was in college, having hunted quail and dove with my daddy off of
the dirt roads of my Paw Paw's farm, having learned to drive on those
same dirt roads at the age of 12, having worked on Paw Paw's farm for
Uncle Roy where we grew tobacco and raised hogs, having married a girl
who grew up on her Papaw's farm on a dirt road, I can confidently say
that all of the claims made in "Dirt Roads" are true

For months now, I have been looking for information and data to fight the
campaign of the Clinton/Gore administration and extreme environmental
groups to close our dirt roads and trails, and I find the most important
reason's in this simple story and in my heart.

I ask that you keep this story, "Dirt Roads" in mind as you read about
the Clinton/Gore Roadless Initiative, as you write letters to public
officials, and when you vote this fall.

Happy trails,

Al

C. Al Roof
Motorcycle Addict
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure
Office Manager/General Flunky - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.

DIRT ROADS

What's mainly wrong with society today is that too many Dirt Roads have
been paved.

There's not a problem in America today; crime, drugs, education, divorce,
delinquency that wouldn't be
remedied, if we just had more Dirt Roads.

Because Dirt Roads give character, people that live at the end of Dirt
Roads learn early on that life is a bumpy ride. That it can jar you right
down to your teeth sometimes. But it's worth it if, at the end, is
home...with a loving spouse, happy kids and a dog.

We wouldn't have near the trouble with our educational system if our kids
got their exercise walking a Dirt Road with other kids, from whom they
learn how to get along.

There was less crime in our streets before they were paved.  Criminals
didn't walk two dusty miles to rob or rape if they knew they'd be
welcomed by 5 barking dogs and a double barrel shotgun. And there were no
drive-by shootings.

Our values were better when our roads were worse! People did not worship
their cars more than their kids.
And motorists were more courteous. They didn't tailgate by riding the
bumper, or the guy in front would choke you with dust & bust your
windshield with rocks. Dirt Roads taught patience.

Dirt Roads were environmentally friendly. You didn't hop in your car for
a quart of milk. You walked to the barn for your milk. For your mail, you
walked to the mail box.

What if it rained, and the Dirt Road got washed out? That was the best
part. Then you stayed home and had some family time, roasted marshmallows
and popped popcorn and pony road on Daddy's shoulders and learned how to
make prettier quilts than anybody.

At the end of Dirt Roads, you soon learned that bad words tasted like
soap. Most paved roads lead to trouble.

Dirt Roads more likely lead to a fishing creek or a swimming hole.

At the end of a Dirt Road, the only time we even locked our car was in
August. Because if we didn't, some neighbor would fill it with too much
zucchini.

At the end of a Dirt Road, there was always extra springtime income from
when city dudes would get stuck. You'd have to hitch up a team and pull
them out. Usually you got a dollar...always you got a new friend... at
the end of a Dirt Road.

________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.

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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:51:58 -0700
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Jetting / Airbox

Hi Steve, are you running 91/93 octane fuel? the fourth groove down should
work well with the stock needle. also a 140 main jet "Mikuni brand" .  Are
you running the stock sparkplug heat range? and what color is it? White ,
Brown or black?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 7:55 AM
To: 'd r'
Subject: (dr) Jetting / Airbox


Well, almost got the jetting right now.

Raised the needle from position four (standard setting) to the bottom (5th)
which reduced the pre-ignition greatly. However it still does it a bit even
though I'm now on a 142.5 main which didn't really improve the pinking from
the 137.5 (or performance).

So do I need to get a different (smaller?) needle jet to fix the
pre-ignition completely ?

Thanks for any ideas

Steve
DR350S '98

- -
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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #178
************************

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