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dr-digest            Monday, June 19 2000            Volume 01 : Number 177



(dr) Moving the list...
Re: (dr) Moving the list...
Re: (dr) Hard start
Re: (dr) tank removal
(dr) 96DR350SE bogging when in the bumps
(dr) 1990 DR650s
(dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
(dr) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>]
Re: (dr) 96DR350SE bogging when in the bumps

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 09:25:51 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Moving the list...

Folks, in the next few days I plan on moving the list over to DSN_DR at
egroups. The KLR list successfully moved a few months ago and the new host
allows for posting in MIME...HTML, it has a digest, a database, a place for
files and pictures, better ease of joining and unjoing and is
likely to attract more listers...we will continue to have the archives at
www.listquest.com .

The only downside is we pick up a bit of advertising on the bottom of each
message. You can turn off the html banner aspect of it and see only text but
it is still there. Frankly, I don't even notice it on the KLR messages...

Let me know if you have any concerns. You do not have to do anything. I'll
handle the move and announce the new locations when all is ready...

Thanks much,

Kurt
List admin...



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 09:59:35 -0700
From: "Arne" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Moving the list...

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Kurt Simpson <[e-mail]>
    To: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
    Date: June 18, 2000 8:28 AM
    Subject: (dr) Moving the list...


    Folks, in the next few days I plan on moving the list over to DSN_DR at
    egroups. The KLR list successfully moved a few months ago and the new
host
    allows for posting in MIME...HTML, it has a digest, a database, a place
for
    files and pictures, better ease of joining and unjoing and is
    likely to attract more listers...we will continue to have the archives
at
    www.listquest.com .

    The only downside is we pick up a bit of advertising on the bottom of
each
    message. You can turn off the html banner aspect of it and see only text
but
    it is still there. Frankly, I don't even notice it on the KLR
messages...

    Let me know if you have any concerns. You do not have to do anything.
I'll
    handle the move and announce the new locations when all is ready...

    Thanks much,

    Kurt
    List admin...
    ___________________

    I think it's a good move Kurt.  It has made my administration life a
little easier with the KLR list.  I think the list members really like it
for the most part to as they have way more freedom to post files, pics,
attachments, etc...  It allows people to be a little more creative which is
nice.
    It didn't take long to get used to the ad's at the bottom either.  They
just kinda blend in with the instructive text we both put at the footer of
the posts anyways, and for the most part - I never scroll down beyond the
bottom of the message anyways so I don't even notice that anything is down
there.
    Good move.
    Arne


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:25:26 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Hard start

Here's a starting drill that works well on my dirt only '92 DR350;

Normally, my bike starts fairly easily when it is cold; it is when it's hot
and a restart is attempted that is gets a bit "testy". You didn't specify if
it was cold or hot starts you were having trouble with. When you shut the
bike down with the goal of restarting it while it's still warm/hot, make sure
you shut off the fuel petcock; I think the carb has a tendency to get heat
soaked and will percolate the fuel out of the float bowl and this is what
makes the bike a booger to restart. The hot start drill is this: 1) switch on
the fuel; 2) hold open the compression release with the lever while kicking
the engine through at least 5 or 6 times; 3) release the compression release
and slowly  kick it through 'til the release clicks and sets itself; 4) now
make sure the kick starter lever engages as high as you can get it and stomp
for all it's worth. If you're lucky, the bike comes to life, if not, redo
steps 2 thru 4 again. If your woods riding and you dump the bike, the engine
will carb foul itself in a hertbeat (all the fuel in the floatbowl will soak
the carb internals and flood out the engine with fuel). Just plan on doing
this starting drill 3 maybe 4 times after a fall before the engine will even
give the slightest notion it's gonna restart itself. Of course you should
help yourself out by making sure the bike is in good tune; spark plug; valve
clearances; air cleaner; etc.

I'm pretty sure you'd be looking at some MAJOR bucks to convert your bike to
an electric start. Welcome to the DR.....at least it won't foul plugs like a
2-stroke...


Hope this helps



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:32:09 EDT
From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) tank removal

JIm;

It's not too hard. Simply shut off the fuel petcock (make sure it's in the
"OFF" position) before you remove the fuel line from it and that will keep
the fuel from running all over the place. Also, you'll of course want to keep
the gas cap in place.


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 20:34:04 -0500
From: "Bob" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 96DR350SE bogging when in the bumps

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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My 96DR350SE will run fine on a smooth trail but when I am in 1st or 2nd =
gear and going through bumps it will bog and stall and won't idle. My =
current set up is PJ40,JXneedle 3rd clip down,JX spring,MJ135, K&N =
filter, top cut off air box.
 Would a carb off a DR (dirt only) version work on the bike with out =
bogging?
Thanks
Bob in MN

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My 96DR350SE will run fine on a smooth trail but =
when I am in=20
1st or 2nd gear and going through bumps it will bog and stall and won't =
idle. My=20
current set up is PJ40,JXneedle 3rd clip down,JX spring,MJ135, K&N =
filter,=20
top cut off air box.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2> Would a carb off a DR (dirt only) version work =
on the=20
bike with out bogging?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bob in MN</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01BFD964.8B4D01E0--


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian McNeil <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 1990 DR650s

Hello,
I just joined the list. I own a 1990 Suzuki DR650s and
I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations about
panniers (saddlebags) for this bike.  The 1990 has the
older cast aluminum rack, not the newer tube steel
rack.  I've been looking into various aluminum
panniers made in Germany, but they all seem to be made
for the newer models (91 and up). The regular soft
saddlebags seem to melt sooner or later. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.

Ak Brian
[e-mail]
1990 DR650s (US spec), progessive rear suspension,
cartridge emulator forks, scotts shifter, Pirreli
MT21's, 16/47 sprockets.

__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 00:26:45 -0400
From: Kong-Wei Lye <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S

Hello all,

Newbie here. Just bought the bike a few weeks ago and just joined the list
today, so I'd appreciate any help.
I tried to change the rear brake pads on the bike a few days ago but
couldn't find any nuts or bolts to turn. It is unlike the front calipers
where the bolts are very consipicuous.
Has anybody done this before? Would appreciate if you could tell me how it
is done.

Kong-Wei.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:29:29 +0100
From: [e-mail]
Subject: RE: (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S

Hi Kong-Wei,

If you have a paddock stand take the back wheel out.  You might be able to
do it by just undoing the nut and pulling the axle through until you can
pull the calliper out the way (the axle goes through the mount) but it's
easier to leave it in place.  It's probably worth loosening the allen bolts
that hold the pads in before you remove the wheel or calliper.  Have fun!

Andy

> -----Original Message-----
> From:    Kong-Wei Lye [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:    19 June 2000 05:27
> To:    [e-mail]
> Subject:    (dr) Changing rear brakes on 94 DR350S
>
> Hello all,
>
> Newbie here. Just bought the bike a few weeks ago and just joined the list
> today, so I'd appreciate any help.
> I tried to change the rear brake pads on the bike a few days ago but
> couldn't find any nuts or bolts to turn. It is unlike the front calipers
> where the bolts are very consipicuous.
> Has anybody done this before? Would appreciate if you could tell me how it
> is done.
>
> Kong-Wei.
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 04:15:59 -0600
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Fw: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from [Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>]

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 10:06 PM
Subject: BOUNCE [e-mail]: Non-member submission from [Brian
Hannigan <[e-mail]>]


> >From [e-mail] Sun Jun 18 22:06:17 2000
> Received: from [24.2.8.66] (helo=mail.rdc2.occa.home.com ident=imail)
> by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.12 #2)
> id 133spF-0002yY-00
> for [e-mail]; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 22:06:17 -0600
> Received: from cx54920-a ([24.1.151.219]) by mail.rdc2.occa.home.com
>           (InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP
>           id <20000619040615.LDQF20009.mail.rdc2.occa.home.com@cx54920-a>
>           for <[e-mail]>; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:06:15 -0700
> Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20000618210221.0083fe00@mail>
> X-Sender: brihan@mail
> X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.3 (32)
> Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:02:21 -0700
> To: [e-mail]
> From: Brian Hannigan <[e-mail]>
> Subject: Re: (dr) (DR 350) High Idle
> In-Reply-To: <[e-mail]>
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> >About 15 miles into the ride a problem developed that has
> >me puzzled. When I let off the throttle my engine started staying at a
> higher
> >idle and the only way I could get the idle to come down was to use the
rear
> >brake to slow the engine down. The idle would then fall off to normal.
>
> I have the exact same problem and Jesse & other gave me the same advice
> about the o-ring.
>
> http://www.dr350.com/NonCGI/Forum5/HTML/000024.html
>
> My question is..... where do I get this o-ring. Is it part of a carb
> rebuild kit from Suzuki or am I just looking for the o-ring?
>
> If I get the JX needle & spring kit will this o-ring come with it?
>
> As always, thanks for all the help.
>
> Brian
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 07:39:33 -0500
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 96DR350SE bogging when in the bumps

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Mine does the same exact thing. My setup is different but the same thing happens
to me. I also get a very strong gas smell like it's flooding. If I have someone
tow me and pop start it it will start. I have had my cylinder fill with gas on
other occasions.

Ric Aruffo






Bob <[e-mail]> on 06/18/2000 08:34:04 PM

Please respond to Bob <[e-mail]>
To:   dr list <[e-mail]>
cc:
Subject:  (dr) 96DR350SE bogging when in the bumps

1 file attached



My 96DR350SE will run fine on a smooth trail but when I am in 1st or 2nd gear
and going through bumps it will bog and stall and won't idle. My current set up
is PJ40,JXneedle 3rd clip down,JX spring,MJ135, K&N filter, top cut off air box.
 Would a carb off a DR (dirt only) version work on the bike with out bogging?
Thanks
Bob in MN

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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #177
************************

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