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dr-digest            Friday, June 16 2000            Volume 01 : Number 174



Re: (dr) DR650SE Rear Spring / Airbox
(dr) New sprocket installation
Re: (dr) DRZ Report after--extensive riding!!!!
(dr) How do you adjust the spring and other suspension questions
Re: (dr) How do you adjust the spring and other suspension questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:08:46 +0200
From: [e-mail] (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650SE Rear Spring / Airbox

Jeff,

as far as I remember it was absolutely easy to change.
You have just to loosen the 2 big ring-nuts and turn them and turn... Turn even
more when the spring is without preload (maybe 1/2 inch more ?).
Then you will be able to remove the parts at the downside of the shock (I gess by
moving them upward and then pull one peace sideways out).
I do not remeber exactly and I am limited with my english, but you will find it
out !

Concerning the airbox:
I would just do the same that Kurt did: remove this snorkel and let the rest
until you are ready to do the complete procedure (jet kit, open the airbox, maybe
aftermarket exhaust).
It might be safer to go to a #145 main jet doe to the lean stock jetting of the
bike

Rainer
___________________________
[e-mail] schrieb:

> Can anyone tell me how to remove the stock spring from the stock shock?  I'm
> replacing it with a progressive suspension unit and I can't figure out how to
> remove the spring from the shock.

> ...

> While I have my airbox out of the bike to replace the rear spring, are there
> any mods I should do to the airbox?  I know about the ones for the 350.

> But what about the 650?
> TIA
> Jeff


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 13:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Moon <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New sprocket installation

Greetings and I hope you don't mind a simple question this time (no
jetting (for now at least:)).

I just received my 14 tooth front sprocket (1992 DR350S) and it came
with what looks like a spacing washer.  I don't think that the sprocket
(12 tooth) currently on my bike (bought used) has a washer on it.
Question is, does the washer go on the inside (toward the bike) or the
outside (toward the circlip) of the sprocket?  Thanks guys.

Jon

=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia

Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax   [phone]
email:  [e-mail]

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 16:40:00 -0000
From: "Mark Sampson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DRZ Report after--extensive riding!!!!

> Just curious as to why you remove your push cable. Is there any possible
> ramification to doing that? Does anyone else do this?
>
> Thanks


    Yes there is a possible ramification. If something stuck wide open at
the carburator or the pull cable stuck in the wide open position you
wouldn't be able to force the throttle closed by turning the throttle off. A
slight risk I take.
    No---I can't say I know anybody who does this now that I think about it.
Keeping the other cable probably makes the bike a little liability safer!!!!

    Why do I do it??????  I love my controls----throttle, brakes, clutch
working very easily and smoothly. This cuts down on fatique. I always take
very long rides---usually a 200-300 mile weekend, offroad. Anything I can
make easier on this old 49 year old body I will do!!!!

    Back when I had shoe brakes----I was always disassembling the brake
assembly completely and greasing and cleaning everything--so it work
effortlessly!!

    Ok Ok Ok-----so I'm anal. You won't be the first person to accuse me of
that  :)   And I admit to it.

    I don't think race bikes (moto-cross) have the push cable----so that
tells you a little something. Less friction and fatique at a slight risk.

Mark Sampson
[e-mail]
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (to old to kick)
1997 BMW F650  (Little Red)
1989 Honda Transalp--the bike that almost
does it all!!!!!!!
All GPS equipped of course!!!


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 08:13:47 -0400
From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) How do you adjust the spring and other suspension questions

Hello everyone.   I am fairly new to dirt riding and I just started adjusting
the suspension on my 98 DR350SE and I have a couple of questions.

   How do you adjust the preload on the spring?  I thought that the upper "nut"
   had to be loosened counter-clockwise and then the inner "nut" could be moved
   clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen.  I can't seen to get
   the upper "nut" to move.  The manual says you need a special tool and doesn't
   go into any more detail, I have read articles for other bikes saying you can
   use a hammer and punch.
   Does anyone have the recommended settings, or something to start with, for
   the suspension and fork?  I am a New England trail rider and weigh 170 lbs.
   I remember reading in an article that the front fork changed in 1998 for the
   DR's, is that true?

Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Brett in CT
1998 DR350SE



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:12:01 -0500
From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) How do you adjust the spring and other suspension questions

Brett,
    Here's the procedure that I use :
1.) Get a hammer and a flat headed screwdriver (one of the double
fisters works the best)
2.) Loosen the top nut counter-clockwise
3.) Lift the back wheel up off of the ground
4.) Hit the bottom nut clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to
loosen.

Note : We did this with my fathers DR and it took a baby sledge hammer
to get broke loose.

To measure the back supension :
1.) Lift the back tire off the ground measure the distance between the
hub nut of the wheel and the           fender.
2.) Next put the back wheel back on the ground and measure the distance
from the hub nut to the same          point on the fender as before.
3.) Next you need to get on your riding equipment on and stand on the
foot pegs.  Have someone measure        the distance from the hub nut to
the fender.

Now time for the math: subtract the distance in step 3 from the distance
in step 1. This is called race sag and should equal about 100mm or 4in
(1mm=.038in) Next subtract subtract the distance in step 2 from the
distance in step 1. This is called free sag and I think that it should
equal 25mm or 1in. (Please correct me if I have wrong on the number).
Repeat the steps until you get the race sag at 4in. If the free sag is
not 1in then you will probably need a new spring. Contact either Norm or
Jesse, they can get you a spring that will work.


Bryan Ply
99 DR350 (my ride)
98 DR350 (pops ride)
88 Quadracer (wife ride)




Hello everyone.   I am fairly new to dirt riding and I just started
adjusting
the suspension on my 98 DR350SE and I have a couple of questions.

   How do you adjust the preload on the spring?  I thought that the
upper "nut"
   had to be loosened counter-clockwise and then the inner "nut" could
be moved
   clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen.  I can't seen
to get
   the upper "nut" to move.  The manual says you need a special tool and
doesn't
   go into any more detail, I have read articles for other bikes saying
you can
   use a hammer and punch.
   Does anyone have the recommended settings, or something to start
with, for
   the suspension and fork?  I am a New England trail rider and weigh
170 lbs.
   I remember reading in an article that the front fork changed in 1998
for the
   DR's, is that true?

Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Brett in CT
1998 DR350SE

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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #174
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