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dr-digest           Wednesday, June 7 2000           Volume 01 : Number 165



(dr) new exhaust
Re: (dr) Jackets
Re: (dr) Air box mod
Re: (dr) Jackets
Re: (dr) Jackets
Re: (dr) new exhaust
RE: (dr) Air box mod

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 21:24:28 +0100
From: "Wesleyjohn" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) new exhaust

Wow! I've just fittef a lazer (road leagle) i have not rejetted yet but the
yet kit comes thursday, It makes a hole lot of difference to the bike, but
the lazer is so, so long!, the end stops just short of the rear fender.
Has any one fitted a dynojet stage 2 and opened up the air box, my question
is what is in the kit, and what settings did you use or recomend


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 17:05:27 -0500
From: "Scott Benkert" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Jackets

I only know about the Firstgear Kilimanjaro since I own one and I just love
it. Removable liner, more pockets than you can imagine, operable vents for
different riding and good padding at the elbows, shoulders and back. I
compared to many of the other jackets at the shop at which I purchased it,
and it was far nicer than anything else there. I love it.
Scott Benkert
99drs350 modified for off road
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Moon <[e-mail]>
To: dr list <[e-mail]>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: (dr) Jackets


>Due to my income tax refund, I am possibly in the market for a jacket.
>The main question is, is a TourMaster Cortech 3/4 gonna be as good a
>jacket as a FirstGear Kili?  And what about Aerostich?  The price spans
>from $200 to $500 and I don't exactly know why.  Anyone ever owned a
>Cortech?  Since it's the least expensive that's the way I'm leaning
>(the refund wasn't huge...)
>
>Thanks
>Jon
>
>=====
>Jonathan L. Moon
>Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
>University of Georgia
>
>Voice (706)-542-1713
>Fax   [phone]
>email:  [e-mail]
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
>http://photos.yahoo.com
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 19:04:42 -0500
From: "G. Arms" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Air box mod

Jesse-

One other point you might address -- DR's don't seem to spit back through
the carburetor a lot (as some others do), but is there any likelihood of an
air filter fire with the screen removed?

Geoff

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com <[e-mail]>
To: Copsey, Stephen J (Steve) <[e-mail]>; 'd r'
<[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 12:04 PM
Subject: RE: (dr) Air box mod


> Hi Stephen, first thing you should do is remove the rubber manifold and
that
> will give you access to the screen. Once the manifold is out then you can
> drop the shock reservoir down over the swingarm, remove the mudguard now
you
> can take out the airbox. remove the filter element. now draw a square on
the
> top beginning from the right side about a half inch behind the mounting
bolt
> holes across to the edge of the foam rubber trim then straight back to the
> foam rubber edge, then back across and forward.  You should end up with a
3
> and a half to four inch square now take a jig saw and cut this area out.
> clean out all the debris and set it a side and remove the carb. Install a
> 140 genuine Mikuni main jet and close up the bottom and then remove the
top
> and pull out the little plastic step washer then the needle if your needle
> has multigrooves on it place the clip in the fourth groove down if not you
> have two choices order a jx needle from Thumper Racing that has the five
> grooves on it or add an extra washer below the clip in between the small
> plastic washer that is there. This will raise the needle and give you a
> richer midrange fuel mixture to balance out with the extra air that you
will
> be getting from the airbox mod.
> To reassemble the works It is easier to install the carb then the airbox
and
> then the rubber manifold fasten the manifold/carb joint first then the
> airbox joint check from both sides to see that the rubber boot is properly
> engaged with the airbox and carb. reinstall the shock reservoir and the
> mudguard and you should be ready to go. Leave the metal filter mounting
> piece in place it is needed to hold the filter element in place. If you
have
> more questions get back to me.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:49 AM
> To: 'd r'
> Subject: (dr) Air box mod
>
>
> Please may I ask a few of questions regarding the air box mod:
>
> Does the needle need raising or is the main jet increase sufficient?
> Is removing the back-fire screen essential for power gains?
> What about the metal bit the filter fixes onto - that has a fairly small
> hole as well?
> For the screen,  what's the best way to get it out as it appears to be
> riveted on? - hacked out from the carb side?
> My standard DR350SE '98 occasionally suffers from mild pre-ignition under
> hard acceleration, especially when very hot. Is this likely to be mixture
> related, or just normal from a hot air-cooled engine?
>
> As always, thanks for any advice.
>
> Steve
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:12:27 -0400
From: "Gary Douglas" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Jackets

<<<is a TourMaster Cortech 3/4 gonna be as good a  jacket as a FirstGear
Kili? >>

   I bought a TourMaster Cortech 3/4 a couple months ago online from
www.competitionaccessories.com
I paid $233 plus about $10 UPS. I chose it after looking at other jackets in
a couple bike shops, as well as online. I am very, very happy with mine.
It's rugged, appears to be well built (though made in China, as many other
jackets are. Boo!), and has semi-rigid padding in the elbows, shoulders, and
spine. I find the pockets to be quite useful, as it has deep dual front zip
pockets, a small front zip pocket, a medium sized inside breast pocket with
velcro, bicep velcro "map" pockets, two zippers at the back that go to the
full width "fanny pack" compartment, dual vent pockets in the upper chest,
and an adustable waist belt to snug it up as much as you want. I suppose
that's to prevent "ballooning".. The winter lining zips out, and it has a
corduroy neck with velcro closure. Plus, I like the styling. It looks cool
without being too "Hollywood". I'm not saying that nothing can beat it, but
I like mine a lot.
   Gary Douglas
   So. Burlington, VT


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 19:18:59 -0500
From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Jackets

Jon,
       I too have the First Gear Kilimanjaro and I like it very well.
The 3/4 length is good too, a little  more protection around the waist
area. Also, more pockets than the Kenya. Although, I probably would have
considered the Kenya, it wasn't out when I got mine. I've had my Kili
about 3+ years. Venting is very important to me and if I'm not mistaken,
First Gear has patents on their venting system. The venting on First
Gear and Hein Gericke stuff is the best in the biz. The removable fleece
lining makes the jacket warm in the winter. This is also where the 3/4
length helps too. I have a Hein G. X-Pilot leather jacket too and the
Kili is cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. There is my .02
worth....

JB
'98 DR650SE
'86 R80

>>> Jonathan Moon <[e-mail]> 06/07/00 09:24AM >>>
Due to my income tax refund, I am possibly in the market for a jacket.

The main question is, is a TourMaster Cortech 3/4 gonna be as good a
jacket as a FirstGear Kili?  And what about Aerostich?  The price
spans
from $200 to $500 and I don't exactly know why.  Anyone ever owned a
Cortech?  Since it's the least expensive that's the way I'm leaning
(the refund wasn't huge...)

Thanks
Jon

=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia

Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax   [phone]
email:  [e-mail]

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
http://photos.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 20:31:11 -0400
From: "Gary Douglas" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) new exhaust

<<< Has any one fitted a dynojet stage 2 and opened up the air box, my
question
> is what is in the kit, and what settings did you use or recomend>>>

   Yup. I have a '99 DR350SE, and when I cut most of the top of my airbox
off I found the bike had weaker mid-range power, and bogged for a second
when I would get on the gas between 4-6,000 rpm. I bought the Dynojet Kit,
though without the K&N air filter. In retrospect I realize that I could have
accomplished the same thing for a lot less money, as you only end up using
about $10 worth of  parts. It comes with a new needle that has adjustment
"grooves", several different main jets, and some assorted bits & pieces. I
did the 'Stage 2", and used a 137.5 main jet, and the needle at the second
setting from the top, I think. (Don't remember now!). The directions are
pretty clear, and if you are even semi-mechanical it's no big deal. No
exotic tools required. Here's a tip, though: Do the job in a clean,
uncluttered, well lighted area where you can find, let's say hypothetically,
a tiny little circlip that pops off when you forget that the throttle slide
does have a spring behind it! (Took me a freekin half hour to find it!!).
  With just the airbox chop and jetting change my DR now runs beautifully.
Pulls strong all the way through. No popping, bogging, or pinging. BTW I
dropped down to a countershaft sprocket 2 teeth smaller,  and may even put
one on the back 2 teeth larger. The bike comes with stock gearing that is
too high for trail/play riding here in Vermont, and even kinda high for
commuting at legal speeds, IMO. For me, 85 mph on a DR350 on the pavement
isn't a real happy place to be!
  Gary Douglas
  So. Burlington, VT


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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2000 19:44:35 -0700
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Air box mod

Hi Geoff, I personally have never had a problem the only thing that could
possibly burn would be the oil in the filter element which I feel is highly
unlikely. however the potential is there but the percentages are very low.
The carb would be the first to go and that is before the screen and could
happen with or without the screen.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: G. Arms [mailto:[e-mail]]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:05 PM
To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com; Copsey, Stephen J (Steve); 'd r'
Subject: Re: (dr) Air box mod


Jesse-

One other point you might address -- DR's don't seem to spit back through
the carburetor a lot (as some others do), but is there any likelihood of an
air filter fire with the screen removed?

Geoff

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com <[e-mail]>
To: Copsey, Stephen J (Steve) <[e-mail]>; 'd r'
<[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 12:04 PM
Subject: RE: (dr) Air box mod


> Hi Stephen, first thing you should do is remove the rubber manifold and
that
> will give you access to the screen. Once the manifold is out then you can
> drop the shock reservoir down over the swingarm, remove the mudguard now
you
> can take out the airbox. remove the filter element. now draw a square on
the
> top beginning from the right side about a half inch behind the mounting
bolt
> holes across to the edge of the foam rubber trim then straight back to the
> foam rubber edge, then back across and forward.  You should end up with a
3
> and a half to four inch square now take a jig saw and cut this area out.
> clean out all the debris and set it a side and remove the carb. Install a
> 140 genuine Mikuni main jet and close up the bottom and then remove the
top
> and pull out the little plastic step washer then the needle if your needle
> has multigrooves on it place the clip in the fourth groove down if not you
> have two choices order a jx needle from Thumper Racing that has the five
> grooves on it or add an extra washer below the clip in between the small
> plastic washer that is there. This will raise the needle and give you a
> richer midrange fuel mixture to balance out with the extra air that you
will
> be getting from the airbox mod.
> To reassemble the works It is easier to install the carb then the airbox
and
> then the rubber manifold fasten the manifold/carb joint first then the
> airbox joint check from both sides to see that the rubber boot is properly
> engaged with the airbox and carb. reinstall the shock reservoir and the
> mudguard and you should be ready to go. Leave the metal filter mounting
> piece in place it is needed to hold the filter element in place. If you
have
> more questions get back to me.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 5:49 AM
> To: 'd r'
> Subject: (dr) Air box mod
>
>
> Please may I ask a few of questions regarding the air box mod:
>
> Does the needle need raising or is the main jet increase sufficient?
> Is removing the back-fire screen essential for power gains?
> What about the metal bit the filter fixes onto - that has a fairly small
> hole as well?
> For the screen,  what's the best way to get it out as it appears to be
> riveted on? - hacked out from the carb side?
> My standard DR350SE '98 occasionally suffers from mild pre-ignition under
> hard acceleration, especially when very hot. Is this likely to be mixture
> related, or just normal from a hot air-cooled engine?
>
> As always, thanks for any advice.
>
> Steve
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>



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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #165
************************

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