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dr-digest            Tuesday, April 4 2000            Volume 01 : Number 090



Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.
Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.
(dr) dr-digest question
Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.
(dr) Finally getting a DR: Reply
Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.
Re: (dr) re: Vortex air box

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 13:54:43 -0400
From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.

Jonathan Moon wrote:

1) I need some type of ramp assmebly.  Is there an

> inexpensive way to construct such a device?

A 2 x 10 in yellow pine about 7 - 8 feet long. There are special ends
available that attach to the end to smooth the transition and sort of
hold the board in place. I would get one if you can find it. I last saw
them at Sam's Club. They cost more than they should, but are still less
than a steel or aluminum ramp.

>
> 2) What is the recommended scheme for strapping it
> down in the bed?  It isn't a long bed but it isnt the
> shortest one either (6 feet?)

Four ratchet tie downs. They only need to be the 6 foot long variety. One
on each side of the handlebar pulling down and forward.. compressing the
front forks a good bit. Then one on the rear each side.. perhaps around
the passenger foot pegs.. pulling down and back a little. Make sure you
are tighter with the front tie downs than the rear. You will find you
will want these things for the long run, so you might as well bite the
bullet and get them for the first trip.

John Hinton


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 13:20:34 -0500
From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.

Jonathan,

For an inexpensive bike ramp I would suggest a 2X12, use the 8 ft length
to decrease the angle.  The downside to the inexpensive way is trying to
handle a 300-lb bike when the handlebars are above your head!!  I opted
for a four-wheeler aluminum type ramp. It is wide enough to walk up with
the bike.
I use two tiedowns on the front of the bike. One for each side of the
handlebar.  I opted for the wide ones hoping that they wont break as
fast.  With a 6ft bed and a 8ft bike, you will have to put the bike in
caddy-cornered to make it fit with the tailgate up.

Congratulations on the bike.

> Hey folks,
>
> As the subject line reads, nothing is final yet, but I
> might be driving down to buy a used DR this weekend.
> I'll probably have some more technical q's to ask as
> soon as I know some more details, but for right now I
> have a transport question.
>
> I will be driving it quite a ways in my Ford Ranger.
>
> 1) I need some type of ramp assmebly.  Is there an
> inexpensive way to construct such a device?
>
> 2) What is the recommended scheme for strapping it
> down in the bed?  It isn't a long bed but it isnt the
> shortest one either (6 feet?)
>
> As you might expect, I would like to do these things
> with little expense, but with more than adequate
> security.  I'd have to have my new (to me) bike slide
> out of the back of the truck at 80mph.  I shudder to
> think of it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Jon
>
> =====
> Jonathan L. Moon
> Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
> University of Georgia
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 14:31:16 -0500
From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) dr-digest question

List,

    Due to an hard drive crash, I lost all of the dr-digest that I had been
collecting at the house, does anyone know if or how I can get them back,
I have tried to interacted with the majordomo list server software to
retrieve the files. I have not been able to get that to work yet, when I
try to download a file it states that it is not a valid file.  The only
file that I recieved was the Archive file, but that had no info in it.
Is there a web page that I can go to get the files?????

Thanks Bryan
99DR350

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 14:12:29 -0500
From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.

Hey Jonathan,
I have a '98 Ranger SuperCab with the 6ft bed. My '95 DR350 fits perfect(tail
down). I use an 8ft 2X10 with a ramp end fitting you can get from most hardware
stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, ect...). It screws right into the board. It's a
little cumbersome getting it in the first couple of times. With a little
practice you can drive it right into the truck bed as I do. Practice on a small
hill, NOT the truck ;^)

Get some tie downs from an auto parts store or WallMart. Bike shops charge you
an arm and a leg for 'em. Make sure the front wheel is up against the bed front
and is pulled down good and tight. Don't worry about the back too much, just
snug is good. Believe me, it ain't going anywhere.

Ric

> Hey folks,
>
> As the subject line reads, nothing is final yet, but I
> might be driving down to buy a used DR this weekend.
> I'll probably have some more technical q's to ask as
> soon as I know some more details, but for right now I
> have a transport question.
>
> I will be driving it quite a ways in my Ford Ranger.
>
> 1) I need some type of ramp assmebly.  Is there an
> inexpensive way to construct such a device?
>
> 2) What is the recommended scheme for strapping it
> down in the bed?  It isn't a long bed but it isnt the
> shortest one either (6 feet?)
>
> As you might expect, I would like to do these things
> with little expense, but with more than adequate
> security.  I'd have to have my new (to me) bike slide
> out of the back of the truck at 80mph.  I shudder to
> think of it.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
> Jon
>
> =====
> Jonathan L. Moon
> Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
> University of Georgia
>


- ----------------------------------------------------------------
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 15:32:41 -0400
From: Don Forgays <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Finally getting a DR: Reply

I have a 2000 Tacoma TRD-right off the lot, I was hoping to cause it no
damage and come up with a cheap and decent way to load my 95 DR350SE into
the truck as politely as possible. Jonathon, I think I have your answer.
Hopefully you have something like a Home Depot near you, (that is where I
got everything you need for this project). First go to the lawn tractor
section. In this section there should be Ramp Ends made to modify a 2X10 or
2X12 for use as a ramp. The ones for 2X12's cost me $25. Next I purchased a
16' 2x12 for about $20-they cut in in half for free. Next I purchased a set
of 6 ratcheting tie downs, set cost $11. Lastly I purchased 2 - 1" inner
diameter screw in eye-lets, (looks like a threaded lolli-pop with a hole in
the head) for about $2. I threaded these about 3' down the ramp from the
ramp ends. I then used 1 of the ratcheting tie downs through the 2 eyelets
and back to my bumper. You do this to assure that the ramps will neither
slide backwards or apart. This is all you need, and total cost is under $60.
These can be thrown right next to the bike when traveling without causing
any problems. If you get the 2X12's then a full size dolly can also make it
up the ramps... Once the bike is in the bed you attach 2 of the ratcheting
tie downs to either side of the handlebars down to the 2 front tie downs in
either side of your truck bed. Ratchet the two front ratcheting straps until
you shock is about 1/2 compressed. This is enough to hold the bike in place
if you are not doing donuts. If you want to strap the back, help yourself,
if you bought the 6pack of ratcheting straps, you will have more than enough
for this. Hope this helps.

Don Forgays
Burlington Vt
95 DR350SE

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 13:58:35 -0700
From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.

Hey Rick, I used to work at PWC as a network admin type dude.

Anyway,  Jonathon get the tie-downs that havd a perpendicular hook,  a twist
if you will, and you can hook them in the holes in the Ranger. I twisted
mine in a vise but you can buy them pre-twisted.

I have a Ranger Super-Cab as well, and I can close the tailgate if I put the
bike in to one side and move the back whell to the other side. This also
helps keep the bed from tweaking in the middle front, where they are
weakest.

The ramp ends are also available at Fred Meyers

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: (dr) Maybe FINALLY getting DR this weekend.


>
>
> Hey Jonathan,
> I have a '98 Ranger SuperCab with the 6ft bed. My '95 DR350 fits
perfect(tail
> down). I use an 8ft 2X10 with a ramp end fitting you can get from most
hardware
> stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, ect...). It screws right into the board. It's
a
> little cumbersome getting it in the first couple of times. With a little
> practice you can drive it right into the truck bed as I do. Practice on a
small
> hill, NOT the truck ;^)
>
> Get some tie downs from an auto parts store or WallMart. Bike shops charge
you
> an arm and a leg for 'em. Make sure the front wheel is up against the bed
front
> and is pulled down good and tight. Don't worry about the back too much,
just
> snug is good. Believe me, it ain't going anywhere.
>
> Ric
>
> > Hey folks,
> >
> > As the subject line reads, nothing is final yet, but I
> > might be driving down to buy a used DR this weekend.
> > I'll probably have some more technical q's to ask as
> > soon as I know some more details, but for right now I
> > have a transport question.
> >
> > I will be driving it quite a ways in my Ford Ranger.
> >
> > 1) I need some type of ramp assmebly.  Is there an
> > inexpensive way to construct such a device?
> >
> > 2) What is the recommended scheme for strapping it
> > down in the bed?  It isn't a long bed but it isnt the
> > shortest one either (6 feet?)
> >
> > As you might expect, I would like to do these things
> > with little expense, but with more than adequate
> > security.  I'd have to have my new (to me) bike slide
> > out of the back of the truck at 80mph.  I shudder to
> > think of it.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated!
> >
> > Jon
> >
> > =====
> > Jonathan L. Moon
> > Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
> > University of Georgia
> >
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
which
> it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.
Any
> review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
action
> in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
> intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
> contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.
>
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:01:09 -0700
From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) re: Vortex air box

Greg,  I used this expanation verbatim on the Kientech web page.  I hope you
don't mind.
It is a very good description of a plenum type air box,  thanks!

Jeff Henshaw

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Lara <[e-mail]>
To: <[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: (dr) re: Vortex air box


> Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the
opposite
> effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and
> travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure)
> reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to
> the exhaust port.   A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave
> arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages
the
> exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for
> more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned
> pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no
> pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine.
>
> A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air,
> lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into
> the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the
air
> box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air
> carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside
the
> air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the
> pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine
> takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the
> engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a
tuned
> air box can help cram more air into the engine.
>
>
> --Greg
>
> DR350SE '94
> CR250 '91
> XR650LE '94
> VFR750 '91
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of [e-mail]
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>
>
> Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being
> satisfied...I
> love it!
>
> >From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is
> better
> thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some
mysterious
> sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall
> tuning
> of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes...
> because
> I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my
spelling
> sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
>
> Guy
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>
>
> -
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>


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------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #90
***********************

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