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Internet Message Format | 2000-03-31 | 502KB

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) California to WA by dirt
Date: 29 Feb 2000 23:51:48 -0800

Hello,

Does anyone have a GPS waypoint file for the "Backcountry discovery route"?
It's that dualsport route across eastern oregon from CA to WA.  It's on
http://www.oohva.org

Thanks,

Tom

+-------------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products
|  701 34th Ave
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|
|  Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com/mc
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
|  tel [phone]       fax [phone]
+-------------------------------------------+



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From: "Doug Grosjean" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Links to Other Sites of Interest to Long Distance motorcycle Travellers
Date: 01 Mar 2000 04:20:33 -0500

Lists,

Came across a really, really neat collection of links to trip reports
around the world.  For some neat reading and dreaming, check it out.

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/Links.htm

Best,

Doug Grosjean
Gr.8 Designs
Pemberville, Ohio
http://www.gr8designs.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) California to WA by dirt
Date: 01 Mar 2000 06:42:02 -0800

Tom Myers wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Does anyone have a GPS waypoint file for the "Backcountry discovery route"?
> It's that dualsport route across eastern oregon from CA to WA.  It's on
> http://www.oohva.org
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom
>
Tom,
    If you find it, forward to me please. My partner and I are going to do
the Trail in July. Will be buying the map book this month. Looks like
fun.
Wayne
--
***********************************************
          Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
    "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
        "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
 Member:
    BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
    Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
    Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club     Honda SOHC4 #539
            National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle
Group)

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From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400
Date: 01 Mar 2000 09:58:31 -0600

I am new to the list. I just bought a DRZ400. Does anybody out there have
one. I also have a DR350. Also is there a way to look at the past messages
on this list.

Thanks

Perry

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DRZ400
Date: 01 Mar 2000 08:18:20 -0800

Hi Perry, it tells at the bottom of this message.  Send to
[e-mail]  and put help in your message

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Gray, Perry
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:59 AM


I am new to the list. I just bought a DRZ400. Does anybody out there have
one. I also have a DR350. Also is there a way to look at the past messages
on this list.

Thanks

Perry

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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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From: "Doug B" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) NDR - kidney belt for sale
Date: 01 Mar 2000 20:59:20 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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For sale on e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=273147860

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Swamprider" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Fw: ALERT!!!!
Date: 02 Mar 2000 09:10:00 -0500

This Is From The Blue Ribbon Coalition! Please read!!!!!!

Swampy


______________________________________________
>>                          ACTION  ALERT
>>
>> To: All Multiple-Use Recreationists:
>>
>> MULTIPLE USE RECREATIONISTS TO CALL-IN ON MARCH 7
>>
>> Tell the Forest Service not to listen to the Extreme Preservationists who
>> are spreading lies About
>> Responsible OHV Recreation!!!
>>
>> For many years, the extreme preservationist movement has stated that its
>> goal is to seek a
>> permanent BAN of responsible off-highway-vehicle (OHV) recreation on all
>> public lands.  They
>> have been largely successful in implementing a functional BAN of
>> sustainable forestry in our
>> national forests and now they have targeted OHVs for that same fate.
>>
>> On March 9, the anti-everyone-but-me crowd is planning a national call-in
>> day to the US Forest
>> Service urging them to (functionally) BAN all OHV recreation on lands
>> managed by the Forest
>> Service.  We have to upstage them in a massive way by preempting their
>> strike with one of our
>> own!
>>
>> On March 7, the Blue Ribbon Coalition, along with a number of
multiple-use
>> recreation and
>> resource groups, is planning a national PRO-OHV call-in day.  The reason
>> for having our call-in
>> on March 7 is because if we don't separate our call-in by at least one
>> day...our legislators and
>> federal agencies might CONFUSE our call-in with that of our opponents.
>>
>> This is a maximum effort campaign by our side and all of us need to make
>> sure that we burn up
>> the email, phone, and FAX lines into the Forest Service.  Please reroute
>> this ALERT to your own
>> communication networks so that our voices will be heard by Chief Dombeck.
>>
>> Please email, phone, and FAX your positive comments about how important
>> responsible OHV
>> recreation is to millions of Americans.  Be sure and tell the Chief about
>> how OHV recreation
>> relates to your family or business.
>>
>> Here are some things you might include in your comments.
>>
>> 1) OHV users are protecting the environment by promoting user ethics as
>> outlined by groups and
>> organizations such as; Tread Lightly!, the Blue Ribbon Coalition, United
>> Four Wheel Drive
>> Associations, American Council of Snowmobile Associations, National Off
>> Highway Vehicle
>> Conservation Council, and the American Motorcyclist Association (list
>other
>> groups in this list as
>> well)
>>
>> 2) OHV users contribute thousands of man/woman hours each year on
>volunteer
>> programs that
>> protect and preserve our natural resources.
>>
>> 3) OHV users support managed recreational opportunities on Forest Service
>> lands.
>>
>> 4) While most OHV users support the original intent of the 1964
Wilderness
>> Act to protect lands
>> untrammeled by modern man, the lands currently available for multiple-use
>> must be managed and
>> remain open for the general public to use and enjoy for a wide variety of
>> opportunities.
>>
>> 5) OHV users do not support the Presidents roadless directive that could
>> CLOSE millions of
>> acres of prime multiple-use recreation areas that have established and
>> legal recreational roads,
>> trails, and dispersed campgrounds.
>>
>> 6) Tell the Chief that you want him to ask for funds to adequately
support
>> the Forest Services
>> recreation and trail programs.  For many years the Forest Service has
said
>> they support recreation
>> but they have NOT asked for the appropriated monies to do so.
>>
>> Please call, email, and FAX to the numbers below on March 7th (if you
>can't
>> get through on the
>> 7th continue on the 8th):
>>
>> Chief Mike Dombeck
>> Email: Mike.Dombeck/[e-mail]
>> FAX: [phone]
>> Phone: [phone]
>>
>> Again,  thanks for your time and effort to promote and protect
responsible
>> OHV recreation on
>> our public lands. Don't let the Sierra Club, The Wilderness Society, the
>> Wildlands Center for
>> Preventing Roads, and other extreme preservationist groups cast
aspersions
>> on all the hard work
>> that you have done to make OHV recreation the family-oriented sport it is
>> today.
>>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) '99 DR350 upgrades
Date: 02 Mar 2000 13:39:44 -0600

Group,

    This weekend I finally got around to doing some mods on the bike.

    First mod was the handguards, they went smoothly, the right side of the
handlebars had a hole but required that you drill a bigger hole in the
end of the handlebars.  The left side was already drilled, just slide
the bolt in and go (simple).    The next mod was putting the T adapter in
the carb as Jesse had suggested (really simple), and an the extended
gear shift lever (really really simple). The finally mod that was made
was to lower the counter sprocket from 15 to 14.  This was probably the
best upgrade, it really woke up the bike in a big way.  Now in first and
second gears I can simply pour the gas on and slip the clutch a bit and
the bike responds by promptly picking up the front wheel and jetting.

    Now for the question section, when loading up, I am in the habit of
cranking the bike and riding it around with the gas petcock turned to
the off position to burn the fuel out of the carb. The bike would not
start what so ever.  I sound like it was backfiring through the exhaust
pipe.  I am wondering what could be the cause of the problem. The only
two senerios that I can come up with are that the valve are out of
adjustment, or that the timing is off.  I dont think it is the upgrades
because I rode the bike for a couple of miles the day before after the
mods had been done.  Following is a list of carb settings. Any help
would be greatly welcome.


CARB SETTINGS :
Main 137.5
Pilot 37.5
Air 2 1/2

Thanks Bryan

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) '99 DR350 upgrades
Date: 02 Mar 2000 15:04:38 -0600

"Gray, Perry" wrote:
>
> I am not sure what you mean about running the bike with the fuel turned off.
> Yes is will run lean and pop and crackle with the fuel turned off just
> before it dies from lack of fuel.

I run with the fuel off to drain the carb, because I usually dont have a
phillips head handy when I get ready to drain it, just the quick easy
way.  I am happy with the power, I just wish I could get the dumb thing
to start on a regular basis.  Using ether to start it every time is not
the way (kindy dangerous too), I can understand using it if it has set
up for over 3 months, but on a daily basis the thing ought to kick over
in a couple of kicks if it is set up right. The only thing that I can
figure is that the jetting is off or the valves are out of ajustment.
Not exactly sure, just looking for some more good suggestions.

Bryan

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) '99 DR350 upgrades
Date: 02 Mar 2000 13:36:33 -0800

> in a couple of kicks if it is set up right. The only thing that I can
> figure is that the jetting is off or the valves are out of ajustment.
> Not exactly sure, just looking for some more good suggestions.

I'll offer suggestions -- your decision as to whether or not they're
"good". ;)

- Is the plug nice and fresh?

- I replaced the stock spark plug wire with an aftermarket one
(something like "Hotwires"???).  They claim a spark with some fantastic
number like 10,000 times more power.  I don't know about that, but I can
verify that the spark with the new wire was much fatter and louder than
with the stock wire (grounding the plug out of the cylinder and kicking
the bike over).

- Drain the bowl completely each time.  I don't know, but I'd guess that
running it until it dies only gets half or less of the bowl's volume
out.  (If you want, try it and let us know...)

- When you're ready to start it up, turn on the gas (obviously) and then
lean the bike over until a couple drops run out the overflow tube (to
create a super-full bowl of fresh gas).

With this, my bike will generally light up after 3 or fewer kicks, even
after a month of not running.  If yours runs fine once it's going, I
can't imagine it's the valves or timing or such.  They all just seem to
need their own little "methods".

Good luck,
Bryan
'96 DR441

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) FW: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>]
Date: 02 Mar 2000 14:59:30 -0700



-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 2:56 PM
["Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>]


>From [e-mail] Thu Mar 02 14:55:50 2000
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I have a 93 DR350 since it was new.  I had changed the jetting to fit my
SuperTrapp Megaloy pipe and changed the gearing to 12 and 50.  It was a
great improvment for a couple of years.  Then I crashed hard one day and
smashed and twisted my Megaloy.  With twin girls and a 4 year old money was
tight so I put my stock pipe back on.  But I never changed the jetting.  I
live at about 400 feet above sea level and the highest I ride is around 5000
feet.  Does any one know what the correct jetting would be or what works
best with these bikes.  Mine tends to run rich till it warms up.
    Now about the gearing.  It is awesome in the woods, but it is much to slow
for fire roads.  My friends RM 250 runs away from me.  Any body know a good
gear ratio for this bike.  I ride a lot of everything, from tight trails to
wide open roads.  The stock gearing was just to fast for trails.
    Any help would be great.  Thanks

Jesse Wardlow
1993 DR350 Dirt




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) gearing and jetting
Date: 02 Mar 2000 14:26:33 -0800

I have a 93 DR350 since it was new.  I had changed the jetting to fit my
SuperTrapp Megaloy pipe and changed the gearing to 12 and 50.  It was a
great improvment for a couple of years.  Then I crashed hard one day and
smashed and twisted my Megaloy.  With twin girls and a 4 year old money was
tight so I put my stock pipe back on.  But I never changed the jetting.  I
live at about 400 feet above sea level and the highest I ride is around 5000
feet.  Does any one know what the correct jetting would be or what works
best with these bikes.  Mine tends to run rich till it warms up.
    Now about the gearing.  It is awesome in the woods, but it is much to slow
for fire roads.  My friends RM 250 runs away from me.  Any body know a good
gear ratio for this bike.  I ride a lot of everything, from tight trails to
wide open roads.  The stock gearing was just to fast for trails.
    Any help would be great.  Thanks

Jesse Wardlow
1993 DR350 Dirt


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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) FW: BOUNCE [e-mail]:    Non-member submission from ["Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>]
Date: 02 Mar 2000 19:27:16 -0800

Hi Jesse, You should go to a 135 main and needle clip in the third groove
With every thing stock the fuel screw one and a quarter turns out from
closed. This means the airbox is not cut out on the top. As far as the
gearing goes to a 14 counter with your 50 on the back this will give you
more speed. By the way did you figure out why you had no compression? You
can reply to me direct if you like.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 2:00 PM
from ["Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>]




-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 2:56 PM
["Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>]


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I have a 93 DR350 since it was new.  I had changed the jetting to fit my
SuperTrapp Megaloy pipe and changed the gearing to 12 and 50.  It was a
great improvment for a couple of years.  Then I crashed hard one day and
smashed and twisted my Megaloy.  With twin girls and a 4 year old money was
tight so I put my stock pipe back on.  But I never changed the jetting.  I
live at about 400 feet above sea level and the highest I ride is around 5000
feet.  Does any one know what the correct jetting would be or what works
best with these bikes.  Mine tends to run rich till it warms up.
    Now about the gearing.  It is awesome in the woods, but it is much to slow
for fire roads.  My friends RM 250 runs away from me.  Any body know a good
gear ratio for this bike.  I ride a lot of everything, from tight trails to
wide open roads.  The stock gearing was just to fast for trails.
    Any help would be great.  Thanks

Jesse Wardlow
1993 DR350 Dirt




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) '99 DR350 upgrades
Date: 02 Mar 2000 23:40:47 -0800

>    Now for the question section, when loading up, I am in the habit of
>cranking the bike and riding it around with the gas petcock turned to
>the off position to burn the fuel out of the carb. The bike would not
>start what so ever.

WHY do this?  Unless you had to store the bike with mexican gas or some
noname gasohol.  In the USA, just use good stuff like BP, Texaco, or
Chevron premiums, and you shouldn't have to ever drain the carb.  I know
lots of peple do it, but I never drain my carb for storage (with godd gas).

My experience with (recent) DRs is that they are running before you finish
pulling out the kickstarter.  Is yours a 350S or 350X?

Tom

+-------------------------------------------+
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|  701 34th Ave
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Re: new member
Date: 03 Mar 2000 05:03:10 EST

Thanks for all the replies to my question regarding the steering head
bearings on the DR650.   Sorry was a bit slow in getting this email out.
Anyway, thanks again.

EVAN

original message:
____________________

Hello everyone.

Just like to introduce myself and thank Arne Larsen from the KLR list for
referring me over here.  I recently bought a 95 DR650.  After 16 years of
riding, this is the first dual sport I've owned.  Too bad I didn't get one
earlier, they certainly are alot of fun.  Though at the moment, the bike is
in need of new steering head bearings.  Any advice as to the type of bearings
I should use???


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From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Throtle Tube
Date: 03 Mar 2000 07:38:47 -0600

Jesse and list,
                       I may have asked this already, and I don't
remember if I got any replies, so forgive me if this is a repeat, but
does anyone know if an aftermarket throttle tube is made for the
DR650SE? Is it the same tube as an RM or DR350 dirt model? You can't buy
a stock one without the grip molded to it, and once you get the grip and
flanges ground off, a Vista Cruise doesn't work very well due to the
tube not being exactly round. Fitting a new grip isn't a huge problem
though. Any thoughts?

JB

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From: "Hoge, Neill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) '99 DR350 upgrades
Date: 03 Mar 2000 07:52:06 -0500

The tip about tipping the bike over ( I heard it here, maybe from you,
Bryan) has worked EVERY time for me. Especially useful if I haven't ridden
in a while. Great Tip!

Neill Hoge
Virginia
99 dr350

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 16:37


> in a couple of kicks if it is set up right. The only thing that I can
> figure is that the jetting is off or the valves are out of ajustment.
> Not exactly sure, just looking for some more good suggestions.


- When you're ready to start it up, turn on the gas (obviously) and then
lean the bike over until a couple drops run out the overflow tube (to
create a super-full bowl of fresh gas).

With this, my bike will generally light up after 3 or fewer kicks, even
after a month of not running.  If yours runs fine once it's going, I
can't imagine it's the valves or timing or such.  They all just seem to
need their own little "methods".

Good luck,
Bryan
'96 DR441

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DRZ400
Date: 03 Mar 2000 07:24:12 -0600

    I have been rejetting the DRZ400. Its ok stock but it really changes
character when you remove the rubber plug in the airbox and rejet. I have
left the pipe alone. The stock jetting is 142 main and 45 pilot. I have
removed the airbox plug and am already at 172 on the main. I have not been
able to modifiy the pilot jet yet since no one has jets for it locally. The
bike woke up. It has more power everywhere. You cannot keep the front wheel
on the ground in the first three gears. Its like a 250cc motorcross bike but
it will pull from the low end like a fourstroke. Suspension is good. The
bike allows you to stand up alot easeyer than the old 350. Its very nimble
in  the woods. Does not feel heavy even though it is probably not much
lighter than the 350. Aahh and then the electric button. SHear extasy. I
don't know what the newer 350's are like to start but mine (90 model) takes
all you got to kick it over. It starts ok its just it takes so much out of
you to do it. I have started 600's that were easyer to kick. I also have an
XR650L it also has the magic button. So far the DRZ400 gets two thumbs up
:-)

    Perry


> ----------
> From:     Doug B[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:     Thursday, March 02, 2000 11:23 PM
> To:     Gray, Perry
> Subject:     RE: (dr) DRZ400
>
> So far, you're the first on the DR list to buy a 400.
>
> I have a 94 350 that will need replaced in the next year or so.  At this
> point I'm not sure what to get - possibly the 400.
>
> Check out my dual sport web site at:
>
> http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html
>
> Doug
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From:     Gray, Perry [mailto:[e-mail]]
> Sent:    Thursday, March 02, 2000 5:24 AM
> To:    'Doug B'
> Subject:    RE: (dr) DRZ400
>
> The electric start dirt version. I am trying to determine the proper
> jetting
> with the airhorn removed. I am at 162 main now and the plug is bright
> white.
>
>
> Perry
>
> > ----------
> > From:     Doug B[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> > Sent:     Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:59 PM
> > To:     Gray, Perry
> > Subject:     RE: (dr) DRZ400
> >
> > Which version  DR 400 did you buy - dirt kick start, dirt  magic button
> > start or dual sport version?
> >
> >  -----Original Message-----
> > From:     [e-mail]
> > [mailto:[e-mail]]  On
> > Behalf Of Gray, Perry
> > Sent:    Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:59 AM
> > To:    '[e-mail]'
> > Subject:    (dr) DRZ400
> >
> > I am new to the list. I just bought a DRZ400. Does anybody out there
> have
> > one. I also have a DR350. Also is there a way to look at the past
> messages
> > on this list.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Perry
> >
> > -
> >  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> >  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> >  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> >  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
> >
>

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From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Starting/ Fresh Fuel
Date: 03 Mar 2000 13:26:12 -0000

I discovered the old-fuel-wont-start syndrome purely by accident about a
year ago. Any fuel in the carb seems to go "off" after a couple of weeks - a
quick drain and re-fill from the tank (even if thats old) works wonders. Its
interesting to hear others who have found the solution to the problem - I
wish I had known about it sooner.

We had a short exchange of views on the KLX list about why this happens, but
as I pointed out - I dont care - it works for my bike ! The laying over
trick helps for cold weather providing a fresh, richer mix. Not something I
try very often with the KLX - too bleedin heavy.


    Steve

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From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) gearing and jetting
Date: 03 Mar 2000 07:34:15 -0600

I dropped a tooth on the front of mine. You won't need to replace the chain
that way and you can always go back to stock gearing. The RM250 will always
run away from the 350. The 350 will win on slow technical stuff and really
nasty hills. Take your buddy up a rock strune hill with lots of obstacles.
Or real tight single track. The new 400 will probably keep up with the 250
if you remove the airbox cover and rejet.

I got alot more HP out of my DR350 by cutting holes in the side cover to the
airbox and rejetting. Cutting out the top of the airbox helps a little but
the seal around the seat keeps alot of air from gettin through there also.
This is cheap only the cost of a few jets. It will make alot more difference
than a pipe.

Perry
> ----------
> From:     Jesse Wardlow[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Jesse Wardlow
> Sent:     Thursday, March 02, 2000 4:26 PM
> To:     dr mail list
> Subject:     (dr) gearing and jetting
>
> I have a 93 DR350 since it was new.  I had changed the jetting to fit my
> SuperTrapp Megaloy pipe and changed the gearing to 12 and 50.  It was a
> great improvment for a couple of years.  Then I crashed hard one day and
> smashed and twisted my Megaloy.  With twin girls and a 4 year old money
> was
> tight so I put my stock pipe back on.  But I never changed the jetting.  I
> live at about 400 feet above sea level and the highest I ride is around
> 5000
> feet.  Does any one know what the correct jetting would be or what works
> best with these bikes.  Mine tends to run rich till it warms up.
>     Now about the gearing.  It is awesome in the woods, but it is much
> to slow
> for fire roads.  My friends RM 250 runs away from me.  Any body know a
> good
> gear ratio for this bike.  I ride a lot of everything, from tight trails
> to
> wide open roads.  The stock gearing was just to fast for trails.
>     Any help would be great.  Thanks
>
> Jesse Wardlow
> 1993 DR350 Dirt
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Away for the weekend
Date: 03 Mar 2000 05:51:23 -0800

I will be away Fri and Saturday, not ignoring anyone on purpose.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

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From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) test
Date: 04 Mar 2000 09:03:12 -0600

test

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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Swing arm service...
Date: 04 Mar 2000 13:43:46 -0700

I have my swing arm out on my DR650 and it is the first time I've ever serviced one.
The bike has 10,000 miles on it. I'm thinking I'm just looking for any signs of wear
or bearing roughness or failure is this correct? I'm putting the bushings back in and
rotating them checking for play and smoothness right? I have not removed the bearings
as of yet because the manual says when you do replace them. When I put it back
together I was thinking I'd use some marine lube I have for the buddy bearings on my
boat trailer? Am I on the right track with all this?

Also, I've noticed one of the mounting tabs for the chainguard is gone as well as the
chainguard. What do I risk if I don't put it back on right away?

Thanks,

Kurt


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From: swc <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) test
Date: 04 Mar 2000 14:41:54 -0800




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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Swing arm service...
Date: 04 Mar 2000 19:24:40 -0800

Right on kurt, boat trailer grease is good stuff. I do not have a Chain
guard on my DR350 so far so good. I have the scotts swingarm on mine with no
bracket for it.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 12:44 PM


I have my swing arm out on my DR650 and it is the first time I've ever
serviced one.
The bike has 10,000 miles on it. I'm thinking I'm just looking for any signs
of wear
or bearing roughness or failure is this correct? I'm putting the bushings
back in and
rotating them checking for play and smoothness right? I have not removed the
bearings
as of yet because the manual says when you do replace them. When I put it
back
together I was thinking I'd use some marine lube I have for the buddy
bearings on my
boat trailer? Am I on the right track with all this?

Also, I've noticed one of the mounting tabs for the chainguard is gone as
well as the
chainguard. What do I risk if I don't put it back on right away?

Thanks,

Kurt


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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Re: Bearings...
Date: 04 Mar 2000 22:10:37 -0700

When I took the cushion lever apart the needle bearings came apart on one of the
bushings. I assume this is an obvious sign of bearing failure...only thing is it
happened on both sides of the bushing and made me wonder the bearing was desinged to
not be sealed. Is this posible?

The manual lists a special bearing puller and installer tool is there a way around
the special tool? If I get a special tool is there a universal model that I can use
for other jobs? Thanks guys...

Kurt


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From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Re: DR650 Windshields
Date: 05 Mar 2000 18:12:31 -0800

I'll forward this to the DR list.

Cheers,

Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com    MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera   My Motorcycle Rides Page
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 12:52 PM


Sorry to ask a Suzuki question on the Kawasaki site.  But I read an
excellent article on your site about windshields and was wondering if you
knew a link that I could look up the Clearview windshield site?  I cant seem
to find it,  I looked up the Rifle page and it seems they dont make a
windshield for the DR650,,,,Do you know anyone who does??    thanks,,,
Tim



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From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 16:47:59 -0000

Hi all,

my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.

Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ? surely turning it
in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?

I ask because I have seen the opposite on some emails and websites. And the
screw on the electric start is impossible to get to unless you tilt the carb
and even then its impossible to do it accurately, so I want to know the
truth !

And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
- is this difference true ?

And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be putting out ?

And why is it always raining here (UK) ????

Steve

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From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 11:06:11 -0600

"Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
>
> Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ? surely turning it
> in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?

On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and counterclockwise = leaner.
Most of the carbs that I have experience with are like this.
>
> I ask because I have seen the opposite on some emails and websites. And the
> screw on the electric start is impossible to get to unless you tilt the carb
> and even then its impossible to do it accurately, so I want to know the
> truth !
>
> And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
> - is this difference true ?

The thing that I have figured out with the dyno charts, there are tow
ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear wheel.  If you are
trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they are measured the same
exact way.  Another question that this might pose if the DR is geared at
15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have an impact on the hp
charts.
>
> And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be putting out ?

I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I figure that is at the
engine, and does not count for the loss of hp through the drivetrain.
>
> And why is it always raining here (UK) ????

Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a little preventive
maintainance on the bike.
>
> Steve
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 11:39:57 -0600

I have seen HP numbers actuall dyno numbers for the DRZ in the low thirties
stock and almost 40 HP with the airbox cover and the baffle removed. This is
on a rear wheel dyno. I just bought a DRZ. I think 40HP is pretty dam close.


The mailing list is a pain in the butt. When you reply it goes to who sent
the message instead of back to the list.

Perry

> ----------
> From:     Bryan Ply[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Bryan Ply
> Sent:     Monday, March 06, 2000 11:06 AM
> To:     Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Cc:     'd r'
> Subject:     Re: (dr) DR Air screw
>
> "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ? surely
> turning it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?
>
> On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and counterclockwise = leaner.
> Most of the carbs that I have experience with are like this.
> >
> > I ask because I have seen the opposite on some emails and websites. And
> the
> > screw on the electric start is impossible to get to unless you tilt the
> carb
> > and even then its impossible to do it accurately, so I want to know the
> > truth !
> >
> > And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that show DR350 25 hp, XR400
> 35 hp
> > - is this difference true ?
>
> The thing that I have figured out with the dyno charts, there are tow
> ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear wheel.  If you are
> trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they are measured the same
> exact way.  Another question that this might pose if the DR is geared at
> 15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have an impact on the hp
> charts.
> >
> > And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be putting out ?
>
> I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I figure that is at the
> engine, and does not count for the loss of hp through the drivetrain.
> >
> > And why is it always raining here (UK) ????
>
> Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a little preventive
> maintainance on the bike.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -
> >  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 11:42:39 -0700

> The mailing list is a pain in the butt. When you reply it goes to who sent
> the message instead of back to the list.
>
> Perry

Perry, you need to hit the "reply to all" button on your email program...

Kurt Simpson

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From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 12:47:50 -0600

Got it thanks.

> ----------
> From:     Kurt Simpson[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     Monday, March 06, 2000 12:42 PM
> To:     Gray, Perry; 'Bryan Ply'; [e-mail]
> Subject:     RE: (dr) DR Air screw
>
> > The mailing list is a pain in the butt. When you reply it goes to who
> sent
> > the message instead of back to the list.
> >
> > Perry
>
> Perry, you need to hit the "reply to all" button on your email program...
>
> Kurt Simpson
>

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) RE: Bearings...
Date: 06 Mar 2000 10:41:38 -0800

Hi Kurt, I think you are referring to the swingarm, or the linkage? some
needle/roller bearings do work this way but I am thinking it is not likely
in this case. a tool can be made with some threaded rod, nuts, and selected
washers and a piece of pipe to remove the existing bearings. if you need a
more detailed explanation let me know.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2000 9:11 PM


When I took the cushion lever apart the needle bearings came apart on one of
the
bushings. I assume this is an obvious sign of bearing failure...only thing
is it
happened on both sides of the bushing and made me wonder the bearing was
desinged to
not be sealed. Is this posible?

The manual lists a special bearing puller and installer tool is there a way
around
the special tool? If I get a special tool is there a universal model that I
can use
for other jobs? Thanks guys...

Kurt



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From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) RE: Bearings...
Date: 06 Mar 2000 12:20:45 -0700

> Hi Kurt, I think you are referring to the swingarm, or the linkage? some
> needle/roller bearings do work this way but I am thinking it is not likely
> in this case. a tool can be made with some threaded rod, nuts,
> and selected
> washers and a piece of pipe to remove the existing bearings. if you need a
> more detailed explanation let me know.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/

It is what Suz calls "the cushion lever" the three holed piece that the
swingarm and shock and links all bolt too. You were right Jesse, I put them
back in last night after Bryan's suggestion and they actually went in quite
well. The Suzuki dealer told me no way. Odd that they would both fail at the
same time. Yes, if you would give me a few more details I'd love it. I'm
trying to take my learning to the next step. Also, is there such a thing as
overdoing it with the grease when it comes to the cushion lever and swingarm
bearings?

Kurt




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Michael Terrian" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 10:37:22 -0700

Steve:

> my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
>
> Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ? surely turning
it
> in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?

On the SEs, which have CV carbs, the "airscrew" actually controls fuel flow,
so clockwise = leaner, counter-clockwise = richer. And, you're right about
the starter getting in the way. I tried all manner of tools to adjust the
carb without taking it off. Nothing I found worked, except the "T-handle
fuel/air adjuster" sold by Thumper, which makes adjustment a snap.

Mike T


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 13:42:46 -0600

I have the same problem with my electric start DRZ. I am thinking of
soldering or epoxying a T handle on the end of the pilot screw.

Perry

> ----------
> From:     Michael Terrian[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Michael Terrian
> Sent:     Monday, March 06, 2000 11:37 AM
> To:     [e-mail]
> Subject:     RE: (dr) DR Air screw
>
> Steve:
>
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ? surely
> turning
> it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?
>
> On the SEs, which have CV carbs, the "airscrew" actually controls fuel
> flow,
> so clockwise = leaner, counter-clockwise = richer. And, you're right about
> the starter getting in the way. I tried all manner of tools to adjust the
> carb without taking it off. Nothing I found worked, except the "T-handle
> fuel/air adjuster" sold by Thumper, which makes adjustment a snap.
>
> Mike T
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 12:43:43 -0700

> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the mixture ?
> surely turning
> it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it richer ?
>
> On the SEs, which have CV carbs, the "airscrew" actually controls
> fuel flow,
> so clockwise = leaner, counter-clockwise = richer. And, you're right about
> the starter getting in the way. I tried all manner of tools to adjust the
> carb without taking it off. Nothing I found worked, except the "T-handle
> fuel/air adjuster" sold by Thumper, which makes adjustment a snap.


Fred Hink described it this way on the KLR list...if the screw is toward the
front of the carb on the engine side it is a fuel screw if it is toward the
back and the air cleaner it is an air screw...that would make it as Michael
is pointing out a fuel screw...

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 06 Mar 2000 15:49:45 EST

Any feedback on these tires? Looking for a good soft terrain tire able to
digest a steady diet of mud, sand and loamy stuff for my '93 DR350. Saw these
listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog and look like they'd be the ticket for
roosting the soft stuff. How well do they hold up (chunking, tread wear
etc)?; do they shed the mud?; will they function okay on the occasional
harder stuff? Thanks for any advice......

Mike
'93 DR350

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 06 Mar 2000 16:46:13 -0500



On Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:49:45 EST [e-mail] writes:
> Any feedback on these tires? Looking for a good soft terrain tire
> able to
> digest a steady diet of mud, sand and loamy stuff for my '93 DR350.
> Saw these
> listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog and look like they'd be the ticket
> for
> roosting the soft stuff. How well do they hold up (chunking, tread
> wear
> etc)?; do they shed the mud?; will they function okay on the
> occasional
> harder stuff? Thanks for any advice......
>
> Mike
> '93 DR350
>

Mike,

The Lagunacross front tire works great and is D.O.T. (Department of
Transportation) approved for Highway use here in the States.  However, I
have found the Garacross to be Pirelli's multi-purpose rear tire.
Although it is not stamped D.O.T. Approved, it is not stamped "Not For
Highway Use" either.

Personally, since I ride a fair amount of asphalt, I choose to use the
Pirelli MT-21 Rallycross front and rear.

I hope this helps,

Al

C. Al Roof

Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 14:42:45 -0800 (PST)

Steve, the DRZ with an aftermarket pipe will put up
numbers just as high as a YZF400 with a pipe.The DRZ's
powerband is much broader as the YZF's hp peaks
sharply(this would feel more snappy).On open trails
i'd rather the DRZ and for MX the YZF.An XR 400 does
not have 10 more hp than the DR350.My buddy has a
brand new Y2K XR400 and with my DR wich has Jesse's
airbox FMF powercore4 muffler JX needle and spring kit
and a 147.5 main jet and we run dead even.The above
add ons made me more power but not 10hp.If my bike
weighed what his does I would beat him the above combo
is a fierce wake up for a stock DR.

--- Bryan Ply <[e-mail]> wrote:
> "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the
> mixture ? surely turning it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it
> richer ?
>
> On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and
> counterclockwise = leaner.
> Most of the carbs that I have experience with are
> like this.
> >
> > I ask because I have seen the opposite on some
> emails and websites. And the
> > screw on the electric start is impossible to get
> to unless you tilt the carb
> > and even then its impossible to do it accurately,
> so I want to know the
> > truth !
> >
> > And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that
> show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
> > - is this difference true ?
>
> The thing that I have figured out with the dyno
> charts, there are tow
> ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear
> wheel.  If you are
> trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they
> are measured the same
> exact way.  Another question that this might pose if
> the DR is geared at
> 15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have
> an impact on the hp
> charts.
> >
> > And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be
> putting out ?
>
> I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I
> figure that is at the
> engine, and does not count for the loss of hp
> through the drivetrain.
> >
> > And why is it always raining here (UK) ????
>
> Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a
> little preventive
> maintainance on the bike.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -
> >
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 06 Mar 2000 14:42:45 -0800 (PST)

Steve, the DRZ with an aftermarket pipe will put up
numbers just as high as a YZF400 with a pipe.The DRZ's
powerband is much broader as the YZF's hp peaks
sharply(this would feel more snappy).On open trails
i'd rather the DRZ and for MX the YZF.An XR 400 does
not have 10 more hp than the DR350.My buddy has a
brand new Y2K XR400 and with my DR wich has Jesse's
airbox FMF powercore4 muffler JX needle and spring kit
and a 147.5 main jet and we run dead even.The above
add ons made me more power but not 10hp.If my bike
weighed what his does I would beat him the above combo
is a fierce wake up for a stock DR.

--- Bryan Ply <[e-mail]> wrote:
> "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > my question today is for a 98 DR350SE, CV carb.
> >
> > Which way do you turn the airscrew to richen the
> mixture ? surely turning it
> > in (clockwise) reduces the airflow and makes it
> richer ?
>
> On the pomper carb clockwise = richer, and
> counterclockwise = leaner.
> Most of the carbs that I have experience with are
> like this.
> >
> > I ask because I have seen the opposite on some
> emails and websites. And the
> > screw on the electric start is impossible to get
> to unless you tilt the carb
> > and even then its impossible to do it accurately,
> so I want to know the
> > truth !
> >
> > And another thing - I've seen dyno graphs that
> show DR350 25 hp, XR400 35 hp
> > - is this difference true ?
>
> The thing that I have figured out with the dyno
> charts, there are tow
> ways to measure hp, at the engine, or at the rear
> wheel.  If you are
> trying to compare the DR and XR hp, make sure they
> are measured the same
> exact way.  Another question that this might pose if
> the DR is geared at
> 15/41, and the XR is geared at 15/44 does that have
> an impact on the hp
> charts.
> >
> > And what rear wheel hp is the DR-Z supposed to be
> putting out ?
>
> I have heard in the high 30's to low 40's, but I
> figure that is at the
> engine, and does not count for the loss of hp
> through the drivetrain.
> >
> > And why is it always raining here (UK) ????
>
> Cant help you there, but it is the best time to do a
> little preventive
> maintainance on the bike.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > -
> >
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Rear springs
Date: 06 Mar 2000 19:50:06 EST

Hello Jesse... Norm...
 Do I use a 7.6kg rear spring... the Eibach 983 series... if I'm not using
the Kouba link??? What weight if I go back to the link (it seemed too plush)
. Also the rear shock is a Progressive 420 using a 58/53 mm spring
(progressive and too soft @350 to 390lbs which is around 6.5kg) will the 983
series fit? I'm 210 with gear.. ocassional passenger@ 80lbs!!

Thanks.. Guy

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Rear springs
Date: 06 Mar 2000 21:46:55 -0700

Guy,

The 6.5KG rear spring should be about right for your weight WITHOUT the Kouba
links, (heaven forbid)  I have not had much experience with the progressive
shock and do not have one to try, but believe the shock body is a little larger
OD, but assume the Eibach 983 series spring will still work.  If the Eibach
Spring  fits, by all means us it if you stay with the Kouba Links and set the
sag at 2.5 inchs.  If not use the stock links with the 6.5kg Progressive spring
and set the sag at 3.75 to 3.9 inchs. Thats about as good as it gets. Let me
know if that Eibach spring fits that Progressive shock.
Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299



[e-mail] wrote:

> Hello Jesse... Norm...
>  Do I use a 7.6kg rear spring... the Eibach 983 series... if I'm not using
> the Kouba link??? What weight if I go back to the link (it seemed too plush)
> . Also the rear shock is a Progressive 420 using a 58/53 mm spring
> (progressive and too soft @350 to 390lbs which is around 6.5kg) will the 983
> series fit? I'm 210 with gear.. ocassional passenger@ 80lbs!!
>
> Thanks.. Guy
>






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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400 users group
Date: 07 Mar 2000 07:17:52 -0600

Hey everybody I have just started a DRZ400 users group at onelist.com. Check
it out http://www.onelist.com/group/DRZ400 come on by and post a message.


Thanks

Perry DRZ400, DR350, XR650L


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 07 Mar 2000 14:56:00 -0000

Hmmmmm......

as I suspected a few opposing views ! When I first got the bike I played
around with the "xx" screw and turned it out to lean it to try and smooth
out the on/off throttle chain snatch. It appeared to lean it anyway, and I
noticed this winter when it was very cold that it runs too lean until the
engines really hot.  So I still suspect its an air screw but I'll have a
look tonight at where it is and if the handbook mentions anything.

By the way, the original chain snatch problem I was trying to fix used to
really annoy me, and drove me mad when running the bike in (no cush-drive on
the later models). I have since discovered that a good thrash through the
gears, once warm, really smoothes things out. In fact the hotter the bike
gets the faster and smoother it feels - lots of low gear straining through
thick mud does the trick though it worries me how the oil copes (hence I use
synthetic).

Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see some honest dyno graphs for
the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high power gains have been
made, but I am forever suspicious !


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 07 Mar 2000 09:06:27 -0600

If you don't believe about the airbox then take the side cover off and ride
it with stock jetting. Mine would not run past half throttle. I stopped at a
152.5 main. I now use a 155 main. That is with a supertrapp exhuast with 8
disks.

Perry





> ----------
> From:     Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)
> Sent:     Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:56 AM
> To:     'd r'
> Subject:     RE: (dr) DR Air screw
>
> Hmmmmm......
>
> as I suspected a few opposing views ! When I first got the bike I played
> around with the "xx" screw and turned it out to lean it to try and smooth
> out the on/off throttle chain snatch. It appeared to lean it anyway, and I
> noticed this winter when it was very cold that it runs too lean until the
> engines really hot.  So I still suspect its an air screw but I'll have a
> look tonight at where it is and if the handbook mentions anything.
>
> By the way, the original chain snatch problem I was trying to fix used to
> really annoy me, and drove me mad when running the bike in (no cush-drive
> on
> the later models). I have since discovered that a good thrash through the
> gears, once warm, really smoothes things out. In fact the hotter the bike
> gets the faster and smoother it feels - lots of low gear straining through
> thick mud does the trick though it worries me how the oil copes (hence I
> use
> synthetic).
>
> Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see some honest dyno graphs
> for
> the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high power gains have been
> made, but I am forever suspicious !
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Christophe Charlot" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Reply : hp charts
Date: 07 Mar 2000 17:27:03 +0100

Hello everyone, I'm a new member of this list, cause I just bought a 98'
DR350, that I ride in the south of France.

I noticed you talked about dyno charts and so on. I've been working for
FUCHS, a small company based in Montpellier, France, that competes Dynojet
in Europe.

The Fuchs blue dyno is much more precise and secure (don't be upset guys
!!). You have no straps to keep the bike in good position on the dyno, but
an hydraulic system that holds the front wheel.

About hp now, I've tested 4 days ago my DR (with no modifications), cause I
wanted to figure out if the 30 hp were still there after 2 years. The
results are :

- crankshaft power : 30.0 (can't do better !!)
- gearbox power : 27.9
- rear wheel : 25.1

Most of the time, the power difference between engine and rear wheel is
about 20%.

Be careful with dynos that only give rear wheel power, because the rear
wheel power depends of the "shape" of the tire and the chain&sprocket. The
advantage of the Fuchs dyno is that the sofware takes in account this
parameters, and also the temperature and air presure.

The only case when you can use the rear wheel power is this one :
- you make a test on the dyno, you make a modification on your bike
(exhaust, carb, ....), you make another test, and you compare. That's all.
So this kind of bench can be useful for people who races for example.

The transmission (14x43 or 15x50 or whatever) is not a problem, because the
sofware of every dyno is supposed to ask it you  !!

Hoping you were able to understand my english !!
And if you wanna by a Fuchs dyno, tell me !! (it's about $20,000). I think
there are many Fuchs dynos in the UK, aren't there ?

Bye
Christophe CHARLOT



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Reply : hp charts
Date: 07 Mar 2000 15:46:02 -0600

I'll trade you four Fuchs rims for one Fuchs Dyno...sounds fair to me...you get four things I get one.

Eric

----------

And if you wanna by a Fuchs dyno, tell me !! (it's about $20,000). I think
there are many Fuchs dynos in the UK, aren't there ?



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR Air screw
Date: 07 Mar 2000 15:51:55 -0800 (PST)



--- "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
wrote:
> Thanks for the views on hp - I would love to see
> some honest dyno graphs for
> the air box mod and the vortex box - some very high
> power gains have been
> made, but I am forever suspicious !
>
There is no need at all to be suspect of Jesse's
airbox it works period.I'd love to let you ride my
stock bore bike.There is a world of difference between
my bike and my buddys totally stock bike.Listen you do
not go from a 127.5 to a 147.5 main jet without some
major air flow.


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Rear spring rates
Date: 07 Mar 2000 19:07:43 EST


Thank you Norm...

The progressive 350-390lb / 6.5kg? spring that came stock with the shock and
riding without your link is too soft...  so go back to the links and a 7.6 kg
spring?

Guy

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Rear spring rates
Date: 07 Mar 2000 22:18:57 -0700

Guy,
The progressive spring may be too soft for you because of it's progression. To
change pounds per inch to KG's per mm, multiply the KG's by 56.   Example:  6.5KG
X 56 = 364 lbs per inch.  The 7.6KG spring with the Kouba Links may be a little
soft also, but will be worlds better than it is with the stock links and the
progressively wound spring. The stock Suzuki spring is approx. 5.3KG.  If you
just install the Kouba Links without a heavier spring it will be softer yet, but
will pick up 1.5 inches of usable travel.  Keep us posted.

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299


[e-mail] wrote:

> Thank you Norm...
>
> The progressive 350-390lb / 6.5kg? spring that came stock with the shock and
> riding without your link is too soft...  so go back to the links and a 7.6 kg
> spring?
>
> Guy
>





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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New Member
Date: 07 Mar 2000 21:42:07 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF887D.FCA31920
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just want to introduce myself, my name is Pedro, I live in Ensenada, =
Baja Mexico, you know, where the baja 1000 takes place.
I have a 97 350 DR SE, that i mostly use for weekend riding with my =
buddies.
Anyways, im in the process of buying a bigger gas tank, IMS makes 3.5 =
gal. Does somebody know if someone else makes a larger tank for this =
bike, because the distances down here are huge!!=20
Thanks
Pedro Azuela 97 DR350SE

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF887D.FCA31920
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just want to introduce myself, my name is Pedro, I =
live in=20
Ensenada, Baja Mexico, you know, where the baja 1000 takes =
place.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a 97 350 DR SE, that i mostly use for weekend =
riding=20
with my buddies.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyways, im in the process of buying a bigger gas =
tank, IMS=20
makes 3.5 gal. Does somebody know if someone else makes a larger tank =
for this=20
bike, because the distances down here are huge!! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Pedro Azuela 97 DR350SE</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF887D.FCA31920--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) RE: Reply : hp charts
Date: 08 Mar 2000 08:48:25 -0000

Hi Christophe,

thanks for the info - its interesting to see how well your figures match the
claimed hp (30) and the rear wheel hp that I've seen on a few graphs. So how
do you measure power at the crank ?

It would be interesting for you to do the air box mod and see what the gain
is.

And, before anyone asks (!) yes, I am going to do this mod, but only after
checking how much intake drone I get with the side cover off. I did ask
about this before but no comments back yet, so I ask again: do you get a lot
of intake noise with the mod bearing in mid that I am sticking with the
standard exhaust ?

> ----------
> From:     Christophe Charlot[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:     07 March 2000 16:27
> To:     [e-mail]; [e-mail]
> Subject:     Reply : hp charts
>
> Hello everyone, I'm a new member of this list, cause I just bought a 98'
> DR350, that I ride in the south of France.
>
> I noticed you talked about dyno charts and so on. I've been working for
> FUCHS, a small company based in Montpellier, France, that competes Dynojet
> in Europe.
>
> The Fuchs blue dyno is much more precise and secure (don't be upset guys
> !!). You have no straps to keep the bike in good position on the dyno, but
> an hydraulic system that holds the front wheel.
>
> About hp now, I've tested 4 days ago my DR (with no modifications), cause
> I
> wanted to figure out if the 30 hp were still there after 2 years. The
> results are :
>
> - crankshaft power : 30.0 (can't do better !!)
> - gearbox power : 27.9
> - rear wheel : 25.1
>
> Most of the time, the power difference between engine and rear wheel is
> about 20%.
>
> Be careful with dynos that only give rear wheel power, because the rear
> wheel power depends of the "shape" of the tire and the chain&sprocket. The
> advantage of the Fuchs dyno is that the sofware takes in account this
> parameters, and also the temperature and air presure.
>
> The only case when you can use the rear wheel power is this one :
> - you make a test on the dyno, you make a modification on your bike
> (exhaust, carb, ....), you make another test, and you compare. That's all.
> So this kind of bench can be useful for people who races for example.
>
> The transmission (14x43 or 15x50 or whatever) is not a problem, because
> the
> sofware of every dyno is supposed to ask it you  !!
>
> Hoping you were able to understand my english !!
> And if you wanna by a Fuchs dyno, tell me !! (it's about $20,000). I think
> there are many Fuchs dynos in the UK, aren't there ?
>
> Bye
> Christophe CHARLOT
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New Member
Date: 08 Mar 2000 03:37:17 -0700

I just want to introduce myself, my name is Pedro, I live in Ensenada, Baja Mexico,
you know, where the baja 1000 takes place.
I have a 97 350 DR SE, that i mostly use for weekend riding with my buddies.
Anyways, im in the process of buying a bigger gas tank, IMS makes 3.5 gal. Does
somebody know if someone else makes a larger tank for this bike, because the
distances down here are huge!!
Thanks
Pedro Azuela 97 DR350SE

_____________

Hello Pedro and welcome, first thing is to change your email program so that it only
sends plain text messages to the list. Otherwise the digest users get a lot of
garbage with your message.

The biggest tank made for the DR is from Acerbis. It fits nicely and yields over 4
gallons. It is also the most expensive. The third and least expensive option is from
Clark.

Regards,

Kurt Simpson



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Springer <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Big gas tank for Dr350
Date: 08 Mar 2000 07:11:08 -0800

Kurt wrote:

Hello Pedro and welcome, first thing is to change your email program so
that it only
sends plain text messages to the list. Otherwise the digest users get a
lot of
garbage with your message.

The biggest tank made for the DR is from Acerbis. It fits nicely and
yields over 4
gallons. It is also the most expensive. The third and least expensive
option is from
Clark.

Regards,

Kurt Simpson


   Hi Pedro, I live in SD Ca and visit Baja frequently.  I have run the
Baja 1000 5 or 6 times in buggies and 4X4s over the last 30 years and
still pit for entrants now and then.

   I appreciate your assessment of fuel tank capacities and the great
distances in Baja with no fuel availability, and when you finally get to
the gas supply location, you find no one at home or they are out of
gas.  Now what???

   Anyway I just put a clark tank (4.2 gal) on my 94 drs.  I wasn't very
impressed.
First the tank has some interference's like the fuel petcock needs some
clearancing with a head cooling fin.  Next my oil cooler has to be bent
away from the tank or I fear an eventual wear hole.  Also It has only
one petcock outlet, and the one that it does have isn't at the lowest
part of the side that it's mounted on.  All these things can be remedied
with work and or money, so the money that I saved on the cheaper tank
isn't worth it.

   I would like to have gotten a six gallon tank.  It would make me feel
more secure while riding around Laguna Chapala after having taken a 50
mile long wrong road and then having to backtrack that fifty miles only
to find that that the out of gas fuel station doesn't have their supply
arriving for 3 more days.


--


Pete Springer                                      PH 760-753-8475
Box 938                       501 Union St.
Cardiff, Ca 92007             Encinitas, Ca 92024

84 V65 Sabre, Honda
83 V65 Magna, Honda
86 VF700C Magna, Honda
86 XR600, Honda
94 DR350, Suzuki
85 XR350, Honda
87 TW200, Yam

The only thing worth dying for is living.
It's not smart people that live to be old, It's lucky people.
Sabre shock Altering is the answer to "The Meaning of Life"

(honda magna,honda sabre,V65,1100cc,vf750s,vf700s,vf700c,vf750c,honda
interceptor,vfr750f)

(honda
magnum,v45,750cc,vf750,vf700,vfr750,vfr800,vfr800f,vf1000,vf1000f)

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Re:  Some URL's on the DR400Z
Date: 08 Mar 2000 15:46:29 -0000

Thanks - got it now.

Its interesting seeing different accounts of exhausts - most users who have
bought an after-market unit say they dont gain anything at the top end which
goes to show how well designed the standard (quiet) exhaust on most bikes
is. Bottom end power gain is somewhat subjective as a louder pipe will
always make the bike feel faster, even if the real power gain is quite
small.

Sorry - ranting again !

> ----------
> From:     Gray, Perry[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     08 March 2000 13:49
> To:     '[e-mail]'
> Subject:     RE: [DRZ400] Re:  Some URL's on the DR400Z
>
> From: "Gray, Perry" <[e-mail]>
>
>
> http://www.onelist.com/links/DRZ400
>
> Thanks Perry
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New Member
Date: 08 Mar 2000 08:45:35 -0800

Pedro,
    Acerbis makes a 4.25 gallon tank. They are in Poway which isn't very
far for you, if you come up to California. That would be the easy way
for you to get one. I live close by in Escondido, maybe we can get
together. I have an Acerbis tank on my 1998 DR350 SE. I do a lot of
riding in Baja, maybe we can get together sometime, here or there.
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Karl" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Oil plug
Date: 08 Mar 2000 10:07:01 -0700

The threads on my oil drain plug have become stripped...
What would be the best way to deal?
helicoil?
drill and rethread?
The bike is a 91 350S...
The plug is 12mm

TIA
Karl


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: George Basinet <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil plug
Date: 08 Mar 2000 09:20:20 -0800



Karl wrote:

> The threads on my oil drain plug have become stripped...
> What would be the best way to deal?
> helicoil?
> drill and rethread?
> The bike is a 91 350S...
> The plug is 12mm
>
> TIA
> Karl
>
> -

Karl,

Temporarily you can get a plug from the local auto parts store.  You need
the diameter of the bolt.  Had one for years in my Peugeot, never got
around to changing it.

George
Escondido, CA


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Oil plug
Date: 08 Mar 2000 09:22:08 -0800

Hi Karl,  yep you have the answer the helicoil is the easiest and more
foolproof outside of new cases and you dont want to go there.  I would
recommend removing the fuel tank and laying the bike on its side so you have
good access and carefully drill and retap for the helicoil straight with the
hole.  It is good to have a buddy watch from one direction while you watch
from the other so that you don't drill off line with the hole or also while
tapping .  Good luck.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Karl
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 9:07 AM


The threads on my oil drain plug have become stripped...
What would be the best way to deal?
helicoil?
drill and rethread?
The bike is a 91 350S...
The plug is 12mm

TIA
Karl


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wesley Woolfall" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Jetting (all ways a good one)
Date: 08 Mar 2000 22:38:04 -0000

Has any one tried the dyno jet kit, I am after the stage 1 kit, as I am not
going for an after market can (go to work eairly in the mornings). But I
would like to mod the air box a bit. If anyone has tried this pls let me
know how you got on.
Wez
Dr350SP 93


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Don Forgays <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Opening air box.
Date: 08 Mar 2000 17:49:00 -0500

Hello fellow DR owners. I live up in Burlington Vermont, and have recently
purchased a 1995 DR350SE. The only thing I've done so far is to put brand
new Pirrelli's on the bike. I am interested in doing 2 modifications, one is
the larger gas tank, and the second is opening the air box. I know next to
nothing about the DR350, so I was wondering if somebody had detailed
information about replacing the air box, or simply opening it up? I love
this bike, but a few extra horses in the right place surely would not hurt.
Any info would be appreciated.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) hp charts
Date: 09 Mar 2000 00:11:18 +0000 (:)

Hi Steve,

with Vortex-Airbox you will get about the same intake drone as with stock airbox with cut
top or side cover off. Under load, it is a reasonable difference to the stock airbox if you
open the throttle. If the bike runs idle, you will rarely notice it.

When you change the exhaust to FMF / Yoshimura / Ear even the idle-noise will raise a
lot. ( i doubt the hp's will as well).
Here in germany, the lawmen measure the noise at about 5000 rpm (no load). The
exhaust modification will lead to a suspended bike, airbox maybe (hope so) not!

I hope to get a hp-chart with thumper 435cc kit, Vortex, Mikuni TM36 Flatslide carb soon.
Maybe i should travel to FUCHS-dyno's in the near future :-)

Greets
Ludwig

http://www.ccwn.org/Ludwig.Geromiler/dr350e.htm

>And, before anyone asks (!) yes, I am going to do this mod, but only after
>checking how much intake drone I get with the side cover off. I did ask
>about this before but no comments back yet, so I ask again: do you get a lot
>of intake noise with the mod bearing in mid that I am sticking with the
>standard exhaust ?







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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Jetting (all ways a good one)
Date: 08 Mar 2000 18:54:53 -0500

wez =


i had my 94 dr dynoed after exhaust and air box mods,it removed any flat =
spots and made the throttle more =

responsive.

stevie

-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

    =



RE:    (dr) Jetting (all ways a good one)

 =

Has any one tried the dyno jet kit, I am after the stage 1 kit, as I am n=
ot
going for an after market can (go to work eairly in the mornings). But I
would like to mod the air box a bit. If anyone has tried this pls let me
know how you got on.
Wez
Dr350SP 93


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Wardlow" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 08 Mar 2000 16:09:32 -0800

I have found on my 93 DR350 that the Dunlop 752's front and rear work great,
these are the only tires I have ever put on it.  They just do so much.  Any
body know of some that are better?

Jesse Wardlow
1993 DR 350

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 12:50 PM


Any feedback on these tires? Looking for a good soft terrain tire able to
digest a steady diet of mud, sand and loamy stuff for my '93 DR350. Saw
these
listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog and look like they'd be the ticket for
roosting the soft stuff. How well do they hold up (chunking, tread wear
etc)?; do they shed the mud?; will they function okay on the occasional
harder stuff? Thanks for any advice......

Mike
'93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Re:  Some URL's on the DR400Z
Date: 08 Mar 2000 17:09:48 -0800 (PST)

Stephen I agree.In my case I had two identical year
Dr's and we purposely left one stock and moded the
other before doing both to compare results.Not
everyone is this fortunate.My particular set-up will
put bike lengths on a stock DR with no doubt.
......John in NY
--- "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
wrote:
.
>
> Its interesting seeing different accounts of
> exhausts - most users who have
> bought an after-market unit say they dont gain
> anything at the top end which
> goes to show how well designed the standard (quiet)
> exhaust on most bikes
> is. Bottom end power gain is somewhat subjective as
> a louder pipe will
> always make the bike feel faster, even if the real
> power gain is quite
> small.
>
> Sorry - ranting again !
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 08 Mar 2000 20:31:43 -0700

Jesse,
If your bike and yourself are into dirt only, Dunlop 756 front, Chen Shing C856
rear.

Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

Jesse Wardlow wrote:

> I have found on my 93 DR350 that the Dunlop 752's front and rear work great,
> these are the only tires I have ever put on it.  They just do so much.  Any
> body know of some that are better?
>
> Jesse Wardlow
> 1993 DR 350
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of [e-mail]
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 12:50 PM
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
>
> Any feedback on these tires? Looking for a good soft terrain tire able to
> digest a steady diet of mud, sand and loamy stuff for my '93 DR350. Saw
> these
> listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog and look like they'd be the ticket for
> roosting the soft stuff. How well do they hold up (chunking, tread wear
> etc)?; do they shed the mud?; will they function okay on the occasional
> harder stuff? Thanks for any advice......
>
> Mike
> '93 DR350
>


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From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New Member
Date: 08 Mar 2000 21:40:43 -0800

I just finished setting up the email program, thanks Kurt..
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 2:37 AM


I just want to introduce myself, my name is Pedro, I live in Ensenada, Baja
Mexico,
you know, where the baja 1000 takes place.
I have a 97 350 DR SE, that i mostly use for weekend riding with my buddies.
Anyways, im in the process of buying a bigger gas tank, IMS makes 3.5 gal.
Does
somebody know if someone else makes a larger tank for this bike, because the
distances down here are huge!!
Thanks
Pedro Azuela 97 DR350SE

_____________

Hello Pedro and welcome, first thing is to change your email program so that
it only
sends plain text messages to the list. Otherwise the digest users get a lot
of
garbage with your message.

The biggest tank made for the DR is from Acerbis. It fits nicely and yields
over 4
gallons. It is also the most expensive. The third and least expensive option
is from
Clark.

Regards,

Kurt Simpson




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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Opening air box.
Date: 09 Mar 2000 08:35:41 -0600



Don,
I have the same bike and I myself am new to the DR. I bought it from a friend
who cut the top off the airbox and fitted an FMF pipe and Stage 3 jet kit to it.
I rode the bike before all this was done and you cannot fathom the power
difference. I bought the bike for racing it in Endoro's and don't see it ever
making it back to the street. I have purchased a plastic tank from Chase for
$150.00 which holds 4.2 gallons and believe me, it needs more tank capacity now.

Ric
'95 DR350SE
'87 XR100R
'70 CT70
'89 CB-1




Hello fellow DR owners. I live up in Burlington Vermont, and have recently
purchased a 1995 DR350SE. The only thing I've done so far is to put brand
new Pirrelli's on the bike. I am interested in doing 2 modifications, one is
the larger gas tank, and the second is opening the air box. I know next to
nothing about the DR350, so I was wondering if somebody had detailed
information about replacing the air box, or simply opening it up? I love
this bike, but a few extra horses in the right place surely would not hurt.
Any info would be appreciated.

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The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Opening air box.
Date: 09 Mar 2000 07:51:04 -0800

Hi Don,  I will refer you to my website (address below) It will give some
usefull information about your DR350.  If you have any further questions
please feel free to contact me.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Don Forgays
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 2:49 PM


Hello fellow DR owners. I live up in Burlington Vermont, and have recently
purchased a 1995 DR350SE. The only thing I've done so far is to put brand
new Pirrelli's on the bike. I am interested in doing 2 modifications, one is
the larger gas tank, and the second is opening the air box. I know next to
nothing about the DR350, so I was wondering if somebody had detailed
information about replacing the air box, or simply opening it up? I love
this bike, but a few extra horses in the right place surely would not hurt.
Any info would be appreciated.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 09 Mar 2000 10:58:53 EST

I run Dunlop 756 front and back. This is an awesome tire and I never need
anything more.

It is, however, only for dirt. On the street, not only are they illegal, but
they are noisy, dangerous, and soft- which means your tread is coming off
very quickly on asphalt.

I only have about 200 miles on them so far and the wear seems minimal.

'99 dr350se
Mods so far:
the tires
cut 1" off of both ends of the handlebars
Enduro Engineering handguards
removed passenger pegs, rear fender extender, some chain guard things
removed turn signals (can easily put back on when street use is planned)
15/47 sprockets, new chain
fork comp and rebound clickers set all the way in (is just about right)

Future planned mods (in order of implementation):
FMF exhaust
re-jet
heavier fork springs
steering damper
Vortex airbox
re-jet
new wider, solid mounted footpegs
Kouba link and spring
Thumper Racing 435cc kit
re-jet

I ride in tight NJ woods, enduro stuff. These mods should be just the ticket
for this bike. Just wish I could do it all at once, it really is a good
machine.

Scott

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Pirelli MT44's (Laguna Cross knobbies)
Date: 09 Mar 2000 08:04:37 -0800

Hi Jesse, The guys down here in Grants Pass swear by the IRC mb5 for the
soft muddy stuff,  just another option.  How are you doing with your
compression problem?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jesse Wardlow
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 4:10 PM


I have found on my 93 DR350 that the Dunlop 752's front and rear work great,
these are the only tires I have ever put on it.  They just do so much.  Any
body know of some that are better?

Jesse Wardlow
1993 DR 350

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 12:50 PM


Any feedback on these tires? Looking for a good soft terrain tire able to
digest a steady diet of mud, sand and loamy stuff for my '93 DR350. Saw
these
listed in the Dennis Kirk catalog and look like they'd be the ticket for
roosting the soft stuff. How well do they hold up (chunking, tread wear
etc)?; do they shed the mud?; will they function okay on the occasional
harder stuff? Thanks for any advice......

Mike
'93 DR350

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Vortex Question
Date: 09 Mar 2000 10:37:16 -0600


    I am fixing to order out the Vortex box, I was wondering what the
actual physical size (LxWxH) of this thing is, in looking at the
pictures at the web site it looks like it fits with the fenders of the
bike removed.  This brings me to my next question, what changes in
jetting should I make at 0-500 feet, and a stock motor and exhaust with
a pumper carb? Do I just need to change the main or do I need to change
the pilot jet too, what about the spring and needle?

Thanks Bryan

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) X-Mailer: DMailWeb Web to Mail Gateway 2.3b, http://netwinsite.com/top_mail.htm
Date: 09 Mar 2000 18:20:49 GMT

I got this from the Yami GTS mailing list.   I'm hope this is suppose to be a
joke, but you never know...

http://www.off-road.com/vw/enviro/efdm.html

BTW, any other DR's going to Bikeweek?   Let me know if you are.

-Steve

'96 Honda Aspencade
'94 DR350S (441)
'94 KTM 440 E/xc
'93 Yamaha GTS
'46 Harley 45 flathead
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Vortex Question
Date: 09 Mar 2000 10:05:35 -0800

Hi Bryan, all side covers, fenders fit the same with the airbox in place.
With stock exhaust and motor I would recommend a 140 main jet stock pilot
and the clip in the fourth groove down on the needle. If you have the pumper
carb you do not have a spring and needle this is only on the CVcarb for the
DR350S model. You say you are using the pumper carb I am assuming that your
bike is a dirt only model is this correct? also What year model do you have?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 8:37 AM



    I am fixing to order out the Vortex box, I was wondering what the
actual physical size (LxWxH) of this thing is, in looking at the
pictures at the web site it looks like it fits with the fenders of the
bike removed.  This brings me to my next question, what changes in
jetting should I make at 0-500 feet, and a stock motor and exhaust with
a pumper carb? Do I just need to change the main or do I need to change
the pilot jet too, what about the spring and needle?

Thanks Bryan

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Vortex Question
Date: 09 Mar 2000 12:21:16 -0600

    Yes the bike is a 99 DR350 dirt model.

"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Bryan, all side covers, fenders fit the same with the airbox in place.
> With stock exhaust and motor I would recommend a 140 main jet stock pilot
> and the clip in the fourth groove down on the needle. If you have the pumper
> carb you do not have a spring and needle this is only on the CVcarb for the
> DR350S model. You say you are using the pumper carb I am assuming that your
> bike is a dirt only model is this correct? also What year model do you have?
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Bryan Ply
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 8:37 AM
> To: dr_list
> Subject: (dr) Vortex Question
>
>         I am fixing to order out the Vortex box, I was wondering what the
> actual physical size (LxWxH) of this thing is, in looking at the
> pictures at the web site it looks like it fits with the fenders of the
> bike removed.  This brings me to my next question, what changes in
> jetting should I make at 0-500 feet, and a stock motor and exhaust with
> a pumper carb? Do I just need to change the main or do I need to change
> the pilot jet too, what about the spring and needle?
>
> Thanks Bryan
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Staskiewicz, Frank" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Plug Color
Date: 09 Mar 2000 13:41:26 -0500


 Hi,

 When testing a plug for lean/rich condition with new main jet do you let
the bike idle to warm up first then put in new plug and give it a full
throttle rev then hit kill switch? How long do you keep it at full throttle
rev, do you just hit full then kill it quick?

 Thanks,

 FS


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Vortex Question
Date: 09 Mar 2000 10:40:42 -0800

Hi Mike, I believe this was what they called a carb reflow and it definatly
was an improvement over the stock settings. I still prefer the TM33SS dirt
model pumper but what you have is ok as long as you are satisfied with it.
Have you made any other modifications to your bike like an exhaust system.
The vortex is an improved model of the Magic airbox so your performance
should be the same with either one. The bored out TM33SS Carb would enhance
the performance though. I have these in stock and do the carb boring. This
should give you some things to think about.  If you have any questions
please feel free to contact me

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 10:25 AM
Cc: Bryan Ply; dr_list


Hi Jesse,

I have a '91 DR350S with a Cycle Gear airbox.  When I installed the
airbox a few years ago I also sent the carb to CG for a modification to
make the slide open faster.  They also installed a Dyno main jet (can't
recall the number right now.)  I think they were calling this a "stage
2" mod at the time.  Are you familiar with this carb mod, and do you
recommend it in conjunction with the Vortex airbox?  Indeed the
combination of airbox/carb mod on my bike made a nice improvement, but
I installed them at the same time so I'm not certain how much the carb
mod contributed.  (My motor is otherwise stock.)

- Mike


On Thu, Mar 09, 2000 at 10:05:35AM -0800, Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com
wrote:
> Hi Bryan, all side covers, fenders fit the same with the airbox in place.
> With stock exhaust and motor I would recommend a 140 main jet stock pilot
> and the clip in the fourth groove down on the needle. If you have the
pumper
> carb you do not have a spring and needle this is only on the CVcarb for
the
> DR350S model. You say you are using the pumper carb I am assuming that
your
> bike is a dirt only model is this correct? also What year model do you
have?
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Bryan Ply
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 8:37 AM
> To: dr_list
> Subject: (dr) Vortex Question
>
>
>
>     I am fixing to order out the Vortex box, I was wondering what the
> actual physical size (LxWxH) of this thing is, in looking at the
> pictures at the web site it looks like it fits with the fenders of the
> bike removed.  This brings me to my next question, what changes in
> jetting should I make at 0-500 feet, and a stock motor and exhaust with
> a pumper carb? Do I just need to change the main or do I need to change
> the pilot jet too, what about the spring and needle?
>
> Thanks Bryan


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Vortex Question
Date: 09 Mar 2000 10:46:27 -0800

This should be no problem Bryan I would send you a 140 and a 142.5 which
should cover the bases. complete instructions, filter element and hardware
come with the airbox.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
[mailto:[e-mail]]On Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 10:21 AM
Cc: dr_list


    Yes the bike is a 99 DR350 dirt model.

"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Bryan, all side covers, fenders fit the same with the airbox in place.
> With stock exhaust and motor I would recommend a 140 main jet stock pilot
> and the clip in the fourth groove down on the needle. If you have the
pumper
> carb you do not have a spring and needle this is only on the CVcarb for
the
> DR350S model. You say you are using the pumper carb I am assuming that
your
> bike is a dirt only model is this correct? also What year model do you
have?
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Bryan Ply
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 8:37 AM
> To: dr_list
> Subject: (dr) Vortex Question
>
>         I am fixing to order out the Vortex box, I was wondering what the
> actual physical size (LxWxH) of this thing is, in looking at the
> pictures at the web site it looks like it fits with the fenders of the
> bike removed.  This brings me to my next question, what changes in
> jetting should I make at 0-500 feet, and a stock motor and exhaust with
> a pumper carb? Do I just need to change the main or do I need to change
> the pilot jet too, what about the spring and needle?
>
> Thanks Bryan
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
> -
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>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Heston LaMar)
Subject: (dr) OEM tank
Date: 09 Mar 2000 15:20:45 -0500

Does anyone have a plastic OEM tank that they would like to sell?  I am
sure one of you guys or gals has put an aftermarket supertanker on your
dirt model and just have that OEM lying in the garage somewhere.  If so,
please reply just to me -- don't litter the list with "reply to all".
Thanks much!

Heston LaMar
94350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Also looking for OEM plastic tank
Date: 09 Mar 2000 19:28:46 -0800 (PST)

I like Heston would also be interested in a stock
plastic tank.If there is anyone who will second this
please e-mail me.I'd like to lose the metal heavy SE
tank.Thanks    John in NY

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Also looking for OEM plastic tank
Date: 09 Mar 2000 20:10:36 -0800

Hi John, the stock plastic tank has different mounting brackets in the
front, you would have to go with Clarke, IMS or Aceribus. Next time you see
a dirt model check it out you will see what I mean.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of john miller
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 7:29 PM


I like Heston would also be interested in a stock
plastic tank.If there is anyone who will second this
please e-mail me.I'd like to lose the metal heavy SE
tank.Thanks    John in NY

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Mick Monroe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) off-road/efdm.html
Date: 09 Mar 2000 20:26:58 -0800

Hey Steve, IMHO the reason I hate to see junk like this off-road thing
propagated, even as a joke, is that the more people that see it the more
loonies there are that will probably actually try some of it.

:)
Mick.

'95 DR350SE


[e-mail] wrote:
>
> I got this from the Yami GTS mailing list.   I'm hope this is suppose to be a
> joke, but you never know...
>
> http://www.off-road.com/vw/enviro/efdm.html
>
> BTW, any other DR's going to Bikeweek?   Let me know if you are.
>
> -Steve
>
> '96 Honda Aspencade
> '94 DR350S (441)
> '94 KTM 440 E/xc
> '93 Yamaha GTS
> '46 Harley 45 flathead
> ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher Bruno <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Also looking for OEM plastic tank
Date: 10 Mar 2000 10:30:34 -0500

"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi John, the stock plastic tank has different mounting brackets in the
> front, you would have to go with Clarke, IMS or Aceribus. Next time you see
> a dirt model check it out you will see what I mean.
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/

Or you could do what I did.  I got sick of the stock tank on my '90 350s
slopping around from those cheesy grommet mounts so I bought an OEM tank
from a local salvage yard and welded nuts (with washers as spacers) onto
the oil reservoir.  It works real well.  You also need to get the OEM
dirt tank mounting bracket as well.

FWIW, while I was there I got the dirt model carb off the same bike.  Total
cost for plastic tank and dirt carb: $170.  Not too bad. :)

-Chris Bruno

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Michael Terrian" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Also looking for OEM plastic tank
Date: 10 Mar 2000 08:11:29 -0700

You can add my name to that growing list, as well.

Mike Terrian
terrian at ibm dot net



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kevin Albrecht <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Cams
Date: 10 Mar 2000 16:00:31 -0500 (EST)

Jesse,

Can you recommend a cam that won't sacrifice the relibility

of my 98SE?

Thanks for all great tips and tricks!
Kevin


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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Cams
Date: 10 Mar 2000 15:01:12 -0800

Hi Kevin, yes I can its the megacycle mild cam.  I have had very good
service from them with no problems, mine is still in service after 6 years
and still going strong. However with the DR350SE model you would have to
retrofit the manual compression release I am working on doing this and will
post the results when I am done.  The stock cam has the compression release
built in and megacycle does not service this cam only the dirt model can be
retrofitted with a non compression release cam because it is a kick start
model and has the manual compression release.
white bros has a compression release cam that is a stock cam that has been
reworked. I prefer the megacycle cam myself.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Kevin Albrecht
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 1:01 PM


Jesse,

Can you recommend a cam that won't sacrifice the relibility

of my 98SE?

Thanks for all great tips and tricks!
Kevin


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From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 10 Mar 2000 18:28:09 -0800 (PST)

Maier offers a MX rear fender now so if you would like
you can lose the ugly bent down OEM fender.The part
number is 17003 and the number 1white 0black
4yellow.This is not on the website I got it out of the
2000 cataloge.It's $40.80.


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From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR650SE slip on
Date: 11 Mar 2000 00:08:41 -0600

Does anyone have a very clean used Supertrapp IDS (not IDS2) slip on
that they would like to sell for a '96 or newer DR650SE? I'm thinking of
getting one, thought I'd check here first. Also, like the IDS (1) better
than the IDS 2.  Thanks...

JB

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 10 Mar 2000 22:13:47 -0800

I can not believe this, this is so bazarre, or the twilight zone. I was
going thru catalogs the last couple of nights looking for something that
might fit. I am going to get one and put it on my website

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of john miller
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 6:28 PM


Maier offers a MX rear fender now so if you would like
you can lose the ugly bent down OEM fender.The part
number is 17003 and the number 1white 0black
4yellow.This is not on the website I got it out of the
2000 cataloge.It's $40.80.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 11 Mar 2000 13:01:20 +0000 (:)

Hi list,

last week i got my G=F6tz catalog. They call themselves M+P now.
They offer two tanks for the dr350:
- Acerbis 14 liters for 399 DM. (About 200 USD)
- unknown brand, 13 liters for 295 DM (no TUEV, not street legal)

Thera are two other "Enduro-Tanks" with 188 and 30 liters (269 and 679 D=
M)
But i don't know if you could make them fit to the DR.

On Fri, 25 Feb 2000 11:59:37 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:

>Hi guys
>
>Thanks, but i wasn't talking about IMS tank
>I made a phonecall to guy who told me(ex-DR rider)
>He knows Ims tank, he claimed that G=F6tz tank was bigger,
>white and shaped like in the old Paris-Dakar bikes,little bit
>like a huge plum (whatever that means)
>The problem is, he was looking '97 G=F6tz catalog,
>so who knows, are they still selling that tank.
>I own also an old Acerbis tank and happy with it,but i'm always
>curious about the things, which could be maybe even better for DR.
>We will have to wait till Ludwig gets the catalog.
>Regards
>Mikko Vimpari
>'97 350SE
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
>To: Ludwig Geromiller <[e-mail]>
>Cc: <[e-mail]>; mikko vimpari <[e-mail]=
t>
>Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:16 AM
>Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
>
>
>Ludwig Geromiller wrote:
>>
>> Mikko,
>>
>> i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good thi=
s
>tank fits or if it is
>> stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only =
about
>15 Liters.
>
>Mikko and all,
>According to the advertisement for the tanks, the IMS is not as large
>as the Acerbis. The Acerbis is 4.25 U.S. gallons. I also feel that it i=
s
>stronger than the IMS, but don't know if that is an issue.
>Wayne
>--
>        Wayne Marsul=E1, Escondido, CA
>"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
>"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
>BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
>BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
>Suzuki DR350SE
>Honda SOHC4 #539
>Yamaha YSR50
>Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
> Member:
>BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
>Internet BMW Riders
>Airheads Beemer Club #165
>        Baja Airmarshal (?)
>Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
>National Rifle Association
>http://www.mikthebik.com/
>(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Colin Parkes" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 11 Mar 2000 12:52:12 +0300

How does the tail light fix on ??
Can you use your original light ?

cheers

Col

92 DR350s
UK

-----Original Message-----
<[e-mail]>; [e-mail] <[e-mail]>


>I can not believe this, this is so bazarre, or the twilight zone. I was
>going thru catalogs the last couple of nights looking for something that
>might fit. I am going to get one and put it on my website
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
>Behalf Of john miller
>Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 6:28 PM
>To: Mitja Jeric; [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
>
>
>Maier offers a MX rear fender now so if you would like
>you can lose the ugly bent down OEM fender.The part
>number is 17003 and the number 1white 0black
>4yellow.This is not on the website I got it out of the
>2000 cataloge.It's $40.80.
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
>-
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> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 11 Mar 2000 09:45:42 -0800 (PST)

  Colin I have not seen an actual picture of it.But
I'd imagine some minor crafty work will be involved in
puting on the taillight.I'm going to replace the T.V.
set style taillight on my SE with a low-profile one
and the MX fender I can not wait it's gonna make my
bike look trick!!!Goodbye exhuast stains on the
fender.

--- Colin Parkes <[e-mail]> wrote:
> How does the tail light fix on ??
> Can you use your original light ?
>
> cheers
>
> Col
>
> 92 DR350s
> UK
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com <[e-mail]>
> To: john miller <[e-mail]>; Mitja
> Jeric
> <[e-mail]>; [e-mail]
> <[e-mail]>
> Date: 11 March 2000 09:20
> Subject: RE: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the
> DR
>
>
> >I can not believe this, this is so bazarre, or the
> twilight zone. I was
> >going thru catalogs the last couple of nights
> looking for something that
> >might fit. I am going to get one and put it on my
> website
> >
> >Regards,
> >Jesse Kientz
> >http://www.kientech.com/
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: [e-mail]
> [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> >Behalf Of john miller
> >Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 6:28 PM
> >To: Mitja Jeric; [e-mail]
> >Subject: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
> >
> >
> >Maier offers a MX rear fender now so if you would
> like
> >you can lose the ugly bent down OEM fender.The part
> >number is 17003 and the number 1white 0black
> >4yellow.This is not on the website I got it out of
> the
> >2000 cataloge.It's $40.80.
> >
> >
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 11 Mar 2000 17:08:55 -0500



On Sat, 11 Mar 2000 09:45:42 -0800 (PST) john miller
<[e-mail]> writes:
>   Colin I have not seen an actual picture of it.But
> I'd imagine some minor crafty work will be involved in
> puting on the taillight.I'm going to replace the T.V.
> set style taillight on my SE with a low-profile one
> and the MX fender I can not wait it's gonna make my
> bike look trick!!!Goodbye exhuast stains on the
> fender.

Hey folks,

I too am excited about the MX style rear fender.  Isn't it ironic that
the DRs have been around for 10 years and nobody offered this type
fender.  Now that they are being discontinued, this neat little gizzy
comes along.  Although I do not particularly care for the dull finish of
Maier's plastic, I will live with it.

As for a tail light, UFO of Italy has just released a wonderful rear mud
guard with taillight and integral turn signals, which is designed to
mount under MX style rear fenders similarly to that of the KTMs or new
DR-Z 400S.  I saw them at the Powersports Dealer Expo in Indianapolis,
Indiana last month.  They are very trick!  The best I can determine, TUF
Racing will be the sole US importer of this particular product.  They are
expecting to have some in a few weeks.  However, they should be readily
available in Europe.

UFO is also offering a headlight assembly with integral turn signals.  It
too is NEAT!  I have two in stock now, but, one is for me and I think the
other one will be gone on Tuesday when we reopen.  I'd be happy to round
up some more.

Hope this helps.

Happy trails,

Al

C. Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
3324 Sparrow Springs Road - Gastonia, NC  28052
[phone] Office - [phone] Home - [phone] FAX
________________________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mikko vimpari <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 12 Mar 2000 11:41:32 +0200

Hi guys

Thanks,it seems G=F6tz doesn't sell that huge DR tank anymore.
By the way, my DR has recently jumped out of gear couple of times,
Is it a gearshift stopper bolt,cam driven gear bolt or cam stopper bo=
lt,
I should be worry about and what's the proper tightening torque for t=
he
loosening bolt?
I bought yesterday EBC heavy duty clutch springs(part no.CSK34)
there were only five springs in the package,did they sell me the spri=
ngs
that come to the primary driven gear?

Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
'97 350SE

----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Ludwig Geromiller <[e-mail]>
net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 3:01 PM


Hi list,

last week i got my G=F6tz catalog. They call themselves M+P now.
They offer two tanks for the dr350:
- Acerbis 14 liters for 399 DM. (About 200 USD)
- unknown brand, 13 liters for 295 DM (no TUEV, not street legal)

Thera are two other "Enduro-Tanks" with 188 and 30 liters (269 and 67=
9 DM)
But i don't know if you could make them fit to the DR








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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 12 Mar 2000 19:53:43 +0000 (:)

OOPS, this should read "18 and 30 liters"
The DR is no supertanker... YET!

>Thera are two other "Enduro-Tanks" with 188 and 30 liters (269 and 679 DM)
>But i don't know if you could make them fit to the DR.



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From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 12 Mar 2000 20:05:02 +0000 (:)

Mikko,

Gears jumping out:
I had that in '96 with mine. Be ALARMED! some 100 mls later the gearing =
came out of
the gearbox! The mechanic who rebuilt the engine apperantly forgot to ti=
ghten the
screw, wich holds the gearing-cam in axial position. Since this, i made =
all engine work
myself :)
If you take of the clutch-cover you can test if it is fixed properly.

Regarding the clutch-springs: You'll need 6 of them. What do you mean wi=
th "primary
driven gear"?

cu
Ludwig

On Sun, 12 Mar 2000 11:41:32 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:

>Hi guys
>
>Thanks,it seems G=F6tz doesn't sell that huge DR tank anymore.
>By the way, my DR has recently jumped out of gear couple of times,
>Is it a gearshift stopper bolt,cam driven gear bolt or cam stopper bolt=
,
>I should be worry about and what's the proper tightening torque for the=

>loosening bolt?
>I bought yesterday EBC heavy duty clutch springs(part no.CSK34)
>there were only five springs in the package,did they sell me the spring=
s
>that come to the primary driven gear?
>
>Many thanks
>Mikko Vimpari
>'97 350SE
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ludwig Geromiller <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>; mikko vimpari <[e-mail]=
t>
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 3:01 PM
>Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
>
>
>Hi list,
>
>last week i got my G=F6tz catalog. They call themselves M+P now.
>They offer two tanks for the dr350:
>- Acerbis 14 liters for 399 DM. (About 200 USD)
>- unknown brand, 13 liters for 295 DM (no TUEV, not street legal)
>
>Thera are two other "Enduro-Tanks" with 188 and 30 liters (269 and 679 =
DM)
>But i don't know if you could make them fit to the DR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) headlight grill
Date: 12 Mar 2000 14:02:42 -0800 (PST)

Anybody out there know of a headlight grill for the
SE?I'd like to prevent a busted headlight due to roost
in my face.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) headlight grill
Date: 12 Mar 2000 22:12:21 -0600

You don't need a headlight grill, just stay out in front!!

JB

>>> john miller <[e-mail]> 03/12/00 04:02PM >>>
Anybody out there know of a headlight grill for the
SE?I'd like to prevent a busted headlight due to roost
in my face.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Christophe Charlot" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) HP charts
Date: 13 Mar 2000 14:58:49 +0100

Hi Steve and Ludwig and all the others,

The FUCHS dyno I've used for the test is not (unfortunately !!) my own
dyno. It belongs to the company, and I cannot use it as much as I want.
Actually they're doing testing on it, currently some tests about an
electrical brake for the steel roll. Don' wanna disturb them !!

If I would go to the nearest dealer, it's about $30 for each test. Gotta
negotiate...

To be honest, even tough I always modified my old moped, cars and bikes,
I'll keep my DR stock (except blinkers !!). Even the airbox modification.
It's a bike I won't ride so much time as you all, cause I love changing my
vehicles regularly, I mean almost every year. I think it's always easier to
sell something stock.

If you need more information about hp charts and dynos, ask me !! Another
thing I forgot to tell you : I remember we made a test with a Triumph 900cc
with an old tire. The owner removed the tire to put a brand new one, we
made another test the same day, the rear wheel power was the same minus 2
hp, and the crankshaft power was still the same.

How can we explain that ?
The rear wheel power was different because the tire needs a couple of days
to give his best performance. So the second test was not relevant at all.
Probably the same difference with a new chain...
The strenght of this dyno is to give a very precise measurement of the
crankshaft power. With the help of different elements, especially the
software that calculates all the friction between the engine and the road.
The main data are given by the manufacturers (Suzuki and all the others).
The dyno also measures the slipping between the tire and the roll during
the test... So many parameters to take in account to give a good
measurement !!! Can't imagine !!

Hoping I didn't bother you with all that !! You're gonna know my whole life
soon  :<)
Bye
Christophe CHARLOT
'98 DR350



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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Stalling woes
Date: 13 Mar 2000 09:16:21 -0600



I have a '95 DR350SE and am experiencing starting problems as the day goes on. I
ride it strictly in the dirt and have done some mods to it like opening up the
airbox, FMF pipe, and stage 3 jet kit. It starts up fine in the mornings, but as
the day wears on, it will not idle and is almost imposible to start until it
sits for a while.

A friend suggested it may be vapor lock. If so, how can I correct this? If not,
what else might it be?

Ric Aruffo

'95DR350SE
2- '87XR100R
'70CT70KO
'89CB-1
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Stalling woes
Date: 13 Mar 2000 08:12:46 -0800

Hi Ric, I am assuming that your stage three jet kit is a dyno jet product,
and if so what jets have you changed? do you still have the canister and
hose arrangement on the bike? get back to me and lets see if we can figure
this out.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 7:16 AM




I have a '95 DR350SE and am experiencing starting problems as the day goes
on. I
ride it strictly in the dirt and have done some mods to it like opening up
the
airbox, FMF pipe, and stage 3 jet kit. It starts up fine in the mornings,
but as
the day wears on, it will not idle and is almost imposible to start until it
sits for a while.

A friend suggested it may be vapor lock. If so, how can I correct this? If
not,
what else might it be?

Ric Aruffo

'95DR350SE
2- '87XR100R
'70CT70KO
'89CB-1
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.
Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
Date: 13 Mar 2000 08:23:28 -0800

Yes I am ordering one today,  will see what I get. I will post a picture if
its worth installing on the bike. Stay tuned

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 6:15 AM


Jesse, that sounds like a good idea.  I would be interested in getting one
of those myself.

Chris

> -----Original Message-----
> From:    Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:    Saturday, March 11, 2000 12:14 AM
> To:    john miller; Mitja Jeric; [e-mail]
> Subject:    RE: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
>
> I can not believe this, this is so bazarre, or the twilight zone. I was
> going thru catalogs the last couple of nights looking for something that
> might fit. I am going to get one and put it on my website
>
> Regards,
> Jesse Kientz
> http://www.kientech.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of john miller
> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 6:28 PM
> To: Mitja Jeric; [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr) New MX style rear fender for the DR
>
>
> Maier offers a MX rear fender now so if you would like
> you can lose the ugly bent down OEM fender.The part
> number is 17003 and the number 1white 0black
> 4yellow.This is not on the website I got it out of the
> 2000 cataloge.It's $40.80.
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 13 Mar 2000 11:33:03 EST

Someone on this list posted a web site with their (Canadian?) DR350. It had
black plastic front and back and side panels. It looked very trick.
My plastic is getting abused and I may change it out later this year. Also,
that front duck-bill stock fender is a bit wide for my tastes.
Does anyone have any info on the black version of the dr350?
I often see the color choice of black when browsing through the fender and
gas tank sections of the catalogs...

Thanks,
Scott
'99 dr350se

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From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) HP charts
Date: 13 Mar 2000 08:19:19 -0800

Hi Christophe, no bother at all,  this is the good stuff your time and
effort to share this information is much appreciated.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Christophe Charlot
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 5:59 AM


Hi Steve and Ludwig and all the others,

The FUCHS dyno I've used for the test is not (unfortunately !!) my own
dyno. It belongs to the company, and I cannot use it as much as I want.
Actually they're doing testing on it, currently some tests about an
electrical brake for the steel roll. Don' wanna disturb them !!

If I would go to the nearest dealer, it's about $30 for each test. Gotta
negotiate...

To be honest, even tough I always modified my old moped, cars and bikes,
I'll keep my DR stock (except blinkers !!). Even the airbox modification.
It's a bike I won't ride so much time as you all, cause I love changing my
vehicles regularly, I mean almost every year. I think it's always easier to
sell something stock.

If you need more information about hp charts and dynos, ask me !! Another
thing I forgot to tell you : I remember we made a test with a Triumph 900cc
with an old tire. The owner removed the tire to put a brand new one, we
made another test the same day, the rear wheel power was the same minus 2
hp, and the crankshaft power was still the same.

How can we explain that ?
The rear wheel power was different because the tire needs a couple of days
to give his best performance. So the second test was not relevant at all.
Probably the same difference with a new chain...
The strenght of this dyno is to give a very precise measurement of the
crankshaft power. With the help of different elements, especially the
software that calculates all the friction between the engine and the road.
The main data are given by the manufacturers (Suzuki and all the others).
The dyno also measures the slipping between the tire and the roll during
the test... So many parameters to take in account to give a good
measurement !!! Can't imagine !!

Hoping I didn't bother you with all that !! You're gonna know my whole life
soon  :<)
Bye
Christophe CHARLOT
'98 DR350



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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) headlight grill
Date: 13 Mar 2000 11:57:05 EST

 I made one out of Lexan which can be obtained at any hardware store.  For
less than $10.00 you will get the protection you need.  I just cut a piece a
bit taller than the light and left enough on the sides to wrap it around and
fasten to the number plate.  It works great...

Good Luck!

Chris in Nor Cal

In a message dated 3/12/00 10:03:20 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<< Anybody out there know of a headlight grill for the
SE?I'd like to prevent a busted headlight due to roost
in my face.
 >>


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 13 Mar 2000 18:18:07 +0100

I have the black DR (spanish) I think that the black colour is only in
Europe and only  in some countries how England or, Spain... and I don=B4t=
 know
if in other european countries there is it...
The black colour is great... but if you want add an acerbis tank (or ims)=
...
it=B4s only in white :(

Bye

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
CC: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: lunes 13 de marzo de 2000 17:38
Asunto: (dr) Black Plastic


>Someone on this list posted a web site with their (Canadian?) DR350. It =
had
>black plastic front and back and side panels. It looked very trick.
>My plastic is getting abused and I may change it out later this year. Al=
so,
>that front duck-bill stock fender is a bit wide for my tastes.
>Does anyone have any info on the black version of the dr350?
>I often see the color choice of black when browsing through the fender a=
nd
>gas tank sections of the catalogs...
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>'99 dr350se
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 13 Mar 2000 18:21:26 +0100

I have the black DR (spanish) I think that the black colour is only in
Europe and only  in some countries how England or, Spain... and I don=B4t=
 know
if in other european countries there is it...
The black colour is great... but if you want add an acerbis tank (or ims)=
...
it=B4s only in white :(

Bye

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo

-----Mensaje original-----
De: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
CC: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>;
[e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: lunes 13 de marzo de 2000 17:38
Asunto: (dr) Black Plastic


>Someone on this list posted a web site with their (Canadian?) DR350. It =
had
>black plastic front and back and side panels. It looked very trick.
>My plastic is getting abused and I may change it out later this year. Al=
so,
>that front duck-bill stock fender is a bit wide for my tastes.
>Does anyone have any info on the black version of the dr350?
>I often see the color choice of black when browsing through the fender a=
nd
>gas tank sections of the catalogs...
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>'99 dr350se
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR441 jetting
Date: 13 Mar 2000 13:21:56 -0500

Hi,

I've been corresponding with Jesse about jetting on my newly
built 441 and decided to bring the rest of you into it.  I
have a pump carb bored to 35mm, Vortex air box, and the head
has been ported.

I've been keeping the RPMs at 5000 or below for break-in and
when holding it there I notice some hesitation and the plug shows
that I'm very lean.

Jesse has recommended that I change the needle to the next richer
position.  I'm currently running with the clip in the 4th
position.

I was wondering about richening the pilot because I'm lean at less
than 1/4 throttle.  The bike idles strongest with the T-handle at
1 3/4 turns out using the stock pilot.

Suppose a 37.5 pilot used with the T-handle at 1 3/4 turns out
is changed to a 40 with the T-handle at maybe 1 1/3 turns, does
the 40 become effectively equivalent to the 37.5 because it has
been choked off by the T-handle - or would the 40 still provide
more fuel capacity at 1/4 throttle?

Thanks...Mark
Atlanta, GA
1998 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jon Robertson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ and DR upgrades
Date: 13 Mar 2000 10:38:38 PST

Howdy,

I am in the market for some upgrades to my new DRZ400 and my wifes 96
DR350S.  I've been told about some sites such as Kevin Unthank's (no longer
a DR rider?!) but it seems a bit outdated.

I'm mainly looking for a shorter seat for my wife and suspension help for my
ride.

Any help would be appreciated.

Jon
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mikko vimpari <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 350 clutch and such
Date: 13 Mar 2000 21:19:18 +0200

Thanks Ludwig

I meant on" primary driven gear"the clutch basket, under clutch
sleeve hub.
I'll check that gearing-cam securing bolt
Does anyone know about the rear shock gas pressures.My =D6hlins has o=
nly a
5.2KG shock spring
my weight is 80kg;180lbs.It's weird, but with that spring the shock w=
on't
bottom even when jumping.
I serviced it last summer,and
service guy put 18kg/cm3
pressure into the shock saying so high pressure is OK with =D6hlins?
So, with that mild spring and stock valving shock is now actually har=
sh on
the little
bumps.
Is that gas pressure way wrong and does it have a effect upon compres=
sion
damping.
Any thoughts?

Thanks
Mikko Vimpari
'97 350SE





----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Ludwig Geromiller <[e-mail]>
ikko
vimpari <[e-mail]>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2000 10:05 PM


Mikko,

Gears jumping out:
I had that in '96 with mine. Be ALARMED! some 100 mls later the geari=
ng came
out of
the gearbox! The mechanic who rebuilt the engine apperantly forgot to
tighten the
screw, wich holds the gearing-cam in axial position. Since this, i ma=
de all
engine work
myself :)
If you take of the clutch-cover you can test if it is fixed properly.

Regarding the clutch-springs: You'll need 6 of them. What do you mean=
 with
"primary
driven gear"?

cu
Ludwig

On Sun, 12 Mar 2000 11:41:32 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:

>Hi guys
>
>Thanks,it seems G=F6tz doesn't sell that huge DR tank anymore.
>By the way, my DR has recently jumped out of gear couple of times,
>Is it a gearshift stopper bolt,cam driven gear bolt or cam stopper b=
olt,
>I should be worry about and what's the proper tightening torque for =
the
>loosening bolt?
>I bought yesterday EBC heavy duty clutch springs(part no.CSK34)
>there were only five springs in the package,did they sell me the spr=
ings
>that come to the primary driven gear?
>
>Many thanks
>Mikko Vimpari
>'97 350SE
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ludwig Geromiller <[e-mail]>
>To: <[e-mail]>; mikko vimpari <[e-mail]=
.net>
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2000 3:01 PM
>Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
>
>
>Hi list,
>
>last week i got my G=F6tz catalog. They call themselves M+P now.
>They offer two tanks for the dr350:
>- Acerbis 14 liters for 399 DM. (About 200 USD)
>- unknown brand, 13 liters for 295 DM (no TUEV, not street legal)
>
>Thera are two other "Enduro-Tanks" with 188 and 30 liters (269 and 6=
79 DM)
>But i don't know if you could make them fit to the DR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages sen=
d
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) RE: DR441 jetting
Date: 13 Mar 2000 11:07:12 -0800



Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 10:22 AM


Hi,

I've been corresponding with Jesse about jetting on my newly
built 441 and decided to bring the rest of you into it.  I
have a pump carb bored to 35mm, Vortex air box, and the head
has been ported.

I've been keeping the RPMs at 5000 or below for break-in and
when holding it there I notice some hesitation and the plug shows
that I'm very lean.

What throttle position are you at at the 5000 rpms.?


Jesse has recommended that I change the needle to the next richer
position.  I'm currently running with the clip in the 4th
position.

Try the choke test that I mentioned in an earlier message


I was wondering about richening the pilot because I'm lean at less
than 1/4 throttle.  The bike idles strongest with the T-handle at
1 3/4 turns out using the stock pilot.

Your earlier message says that it was stuttering at 3/8 throttle position.
1 and 3/4 turns sound about right for the fuel screw.



Suppose a 37.5 pilot used with the T-handle at 1 3/4 turns out
is changed to a 40 with the T-handle at maybe 1 1/3 turns, does
the 40 become effectively equivalent to the 37.5 because it has
been choked off by the T-handle - or would the 40 still provide
more fuel capacity at 1/4 throttle?

You are ok here Mark the 40 is richer than the 37.5 at 2.5 turns out or full
open, your tee handle just adjusts the amount of fuel that is available from
the pilot. So if it ran crisp and smooth at 2.5 turns then you may need a 40
and go back to maybe 3/4 turns open this is hypothetically speaking


Thanks...Mark
Atlanta, GA
1998 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Replacement seats
Date: 13 Mar 2000 12:04:46 -0800

Hi all,
    I recently got a Corbin seat to replace the stock on one my 98 DR350SE.
It is nice to have the extra width, but otherwise it is worse than the
stock one. I could ride the stock seat over 100 miles, but the Corbin
after 35 was painful.
    I have a fusion in my back, which makes me feel like I am sitting on my
tailbone. I took the stock seat apart, and put a 3/4" deep by 1 1/2"
wide groove on the centerline where needed. That helped it, so I just
did the same to the Corbin. It also helped, but after about 100 miles
the seat was far too hard. When I had it uncovered, I saw that the foam
is about the worst thing they could have used. MUCH better foam is
available.
    I'm now going to take the seat to NBI upholstery in San Diego. They
have done two other seats for me, and they are great. I believe they
used THREE different densities of foam. I'll report back on how the seat
comes out. But if you are thinking of a Corbin, well, they might be okay
for a light person. But at 250, the foam compressed to the seat pan.
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DRZ and DR upgrades
Date: 12 Mar 2000 15:31:42 -0600

Jon,

Get the Suzuki's gel seat.  It should lower the seating position about an inch.

Eric

----------
I am in the market for some upgrades to my new DRZ400 and my wifes 96
DR350S.  I've been told about some sites such as Kevin Unthank's (no longer
a DR rider?!) but it seems a bit outdated.

I'm mainly looking for a shorter seat for my wife and suspension help for my
ride.


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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Oliver Block <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) headlight grill
Date: 13 Mar 2000 21:41:56 -0500

--============_-1259120772==_ma============
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

John,
    I bought my '95 DR350SE used from a dealer in upstate NY.  It
came with a great steel headlight grill installed.  I don't know what
brand it is or where the previous owner got it.  However, you may
want to check with the dealer I bought it from because they may have
installed it or know where to get one.  I bought it at Progressive
Powersport in Ithaca, NY.  They have a web page at
http://www.pro-power.com and their toll free number is (800)
774-4123.  I bought it in March, 1998 so I don't know if they'll
remember me.

                Good luck finding the grill,
                Oliver




>Anybody out there know of a headlight grill for the
>SE?I'd like to prevent a busted headlight due to roost
>in my face.
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>-
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

**********************************************************************
"I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to
achieve it by not dying."  - Woody Allen
--============_-1259120772==_ma============
Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii"

<fontfamily><param>Geneva</param>John,

    I bought my '95 DR350SE used from a dealer in upstate NY.  It came
with a great steel headlight grill installed.  I don't know what brand
it is or where the previous owner got it.  However, you may want to
check with the dealer I bought it from because they may have installed
it or know where to get one.  I bought it at Progressive Powersport in
Ithaca, NY.  They have a web page at http://www.pro-power.com and their
toll free number is [phone].  I bought it in March, 1998 so I
don't know if they'll remember me.


                Good luck finding the grill,

                Oliver





<excerpt>Anybody out there know of a headlight grill for the

SE?I'd like to prevent a busted headlight due to roost

in my face.



__________________________________________________

Do You Yahoo!?

Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.

http://im.yahoo.com


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</excerpt></fontfamily>

<bigger>**********************************************************************

"I don't want to achieve immortality through my work, I want to achieve it by not dying."  - Woody Allen</bigger>

--============_-1259120772==_ma============--

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Eric Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) headlight grill
Date: 12 Mar 2000 21:22:08 -0600

Since everyone is talking headlights this year I need to replace mine
(whole headlight glass and all) since I smashed it last year...anyone know
what these bad boys are going for?

Eric


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DRZ and DR upgrades
Date: 13 Mar 2000 21:01:21 -0800

Hi Jon, another solution for your wifes bike is the kouba link it lowers it
1-1/2 inches and gives a much better ride.  there is a link to the guy that
manfactures them on my website below. It will cost less than the seat.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Eric Myers
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2000 1:32 PM


Jon,

Get the Suzuki's gel seat.  It should lower the seating position about an
inch.

Eric

----------
I am in the market for some upgrades to my new DRZ400 and my wifes 96
DR350S.  I've been told about some sites such as Kevin Unthank's (no longer
a DR rider?!) but it seems a bit outdated.

I'm mainly looking for a shorter seat for my wife and suspension help for my
ride.


-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 14 Mar 2000 10:40:48 -0000

Hi Scott

I too have a black  350SE (in the UK). I saw it in the showroom and thought
it looked so good I bought it !

Converting totally from a white and yellow wont be so easy -
Grey Frame
Black tank and air scoops
Black panels
Black headlight cowling
Black mudguards
Black hand guards
Black/ grey seat

and so on.

I heard you can get flexible paint for putting on plastic but I dont know
how it would hold up to off-road use.

> ----------
> From:     [e-mail][SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     13 March 2000 16:33
> To:     [e-mail]; [e-mail]
> Cc:     [e-mail]; [e-mail]
> Subject:     (dr) Black Plastic
>
> Someone on this list posted a web site with their (Canadian?) DR350. It
> had
> black plastic front and back and side panels. It looked very trick.
> My plastic is getting abused and I may change it out later this year.
> Also,
> that front duck-bill stock fender is a bit wide for my tastes.
> Does anyone have any info on the black version of the dr350?
> I often see the color choice of black when browsing through the fender and
>
> gas tank sections of the catalogs...
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> '99 dr350se
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Bearings
Date: 14 Mar 2000 12:25:57 +0100

Hello to all. I continue having a problem in my DR that I was not able to
solve.
The front wheel has lateral looseness. I changed 2 times the bearings, bu=
t
they were well, and the wheel continues having looseness. I have
disassembled the wheel and I have noticed that the axis that crosses the
wheel, doesn't fit perfectly in the bearings (it is as if the diameter of
the axis decreases some tenth of millimeter), so that the looseness is du=
e
to that to that the axis moves inside the bearings.
could it be that the axis has worn out and have something of diameter los=
t?
I believe that this it is the most possible answer, but I thank any other
suggestion, always considering that the bearings is in perfect state, and
that the problem is in the front wheel (not in the suspension). My DR has=
 1
year and 22.000 km (15000 milles), most in off-road.
Greetings

PD: Sorry for the translation, it is made with a translator program. I
sometimes believe that it is better my English (it=B4s very poor) that th=
at of
these translators programs (it=B4s very poor too)


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 14 Mar 2000 10:09:22 EST

Thanks for the info Steve. My '99 DR350 SE has a black frame, black mud
flaps. I am thinking that the headlight shroud, fenders and numbers plates
are all that I would have to change.
Will they bolt right up, or is there a difference in the US/Euro version of
the bikes that would not allow easy retro fitting?

Thanks,
Scott

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Bearings
Date: 14 Mar 2000 08:25:42 -0800

Hi Pablo, sounds like you need an axle, as long as the bearings fit the hub
nice and snug the new axle should do it also make sure that you have the
spacer tube between the bearings. Hope this helps.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Pablo
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 3:26 AM


Hello to all. I continue having a problem in my DR that I was not able to
solve.
The front wheel has lateral looseness. I changed 2 times the bearings, but
they were well, and the wheel continues having looseness. I have
disassembled the wheel and I have noticed that the axis that crosses the
wheel, doesn't fit perfectly in the bearings (it is as if the diameter of
the axis decreases some tenth of millimeter), so that the looseness is due
to that to that the axis moves inside the bearings.
could it be that the axis has worn out and have something of diameter lost?
I believe that this it is the most possible answer, but I thank any other
suggestion, always considering that the bearings is in perfect state, and
that the problem is in the front wheel (not in the suspension). My DR has 1
year and 22.000 km (15000 milles), most in off-road.
Greetings

PD: Sorry for the translation, it is made with a translator program. I
sometimes believe that it is better my English (it┤s very poor) that that of
these translators programs (it┤s very poor too)


_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo


-
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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Christopher Bruno <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New Muffler! - What jets?
Date: 14 Mar 2000 11:43:16 -0500

Hello everybody,

Well after a winter of going gangbuster on my three major projects (house,
dirtbike, and racebike) my 1990 DR350s is almost done.

Over the winter I bored out the cylinder (only .020" over for now),
rebuilt the shock, raceteched the forks, made myself some longer links,
had the swingarm welded, put in new brake pads, replaced the rear wheel
bearings, replaced my very dented headpipe, and welded nuts onto the frame
to use the OEM plastic tank I picked up at the salvage yard.

Well, yesterday I got a new muffler - the FMF powercore IV SA.  I got this
over the megamax because many people have complained that the Megamax burned
the rear fender - that and I really like the look of the powercore.
I probably wouldn't have replaced it at all if it weren't for the fact that
the OEM muffler that was on there was pretty rusted and had a hole worn
through it.

In any case, this thing is LOUD.  So loud for me, in fact, that I considered
returning it.  But I think that considering where I ride and who I ride with,
the volume probably will not be a problem.

What I was hoping to find out from whomever is using the same configuration
(stock airbox - Powercore IV), is what jets are you using.  I am more interested
in those with the pumper carbs since I have one sitting on my workbench
waiting to get put in but setting up the CV carb to work would be good too.

Thanks for any input!
-Chris Bruno
1990 DR350s
1988 EX500 Racebike
1995 VFR
1975 DT175

-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Black Plastic
Date: 14 Mar 2000 16:31:37 -0000

No idea !
Sorry.
But I doubt if they are much different.


> ----------
> From:     [e-mail][SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     14 March 2000 15:09
> To:     [e-mail]; [e-mail]
> Subject:     Re: (dr) Black Plastic
>
> Thanks for the info Steve. My '99 DR350 SE has a black frame, black mud
> flaps. I am thinking that the headlight shroud, fenders and numbers plates
>
> are all that I would have to change.
> Will they bolt right up, or is there a difference in the US/Euro version
> of
> the bikes that would not allow easy retro fitting?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

-
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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Bearings
Date: 14 Mar 2000 16:35:25 -0000

A difficult one to diagnose remotely. The axle should be a reasonably =
good
fit in the bearing - any wear on the axle caused by a seized bearing =
will
show quite clearly.

I'm assuming you are tightening the axle fully before doing up the four
clamp bolts ? Sorry to state the obvious but I had a bike come back =
from a
workshop with the clamp tight, but the axle completely loose !

When the axle is done up tight, the two inner parts of the bearings and =
the
bearing spacer become a solid mass, so a small amount of difference =
between
the axle and bearing can be tolerated. If the axle is excessively worn, =
new
bearings will remove the play, but constant pounding off-road will =
loosen
things as the bearings rub their sides on the axle end and fork end. =
You
need to check the spacer is not worn (too short) or too long as this =
can put
excessive load on the bearings and wear them out very quickly.=20

By the way, 15K miles off-road in one year is some serious usage - I =
would
be interested to share stories about how things are wearing. Mines done =
10k
in two years but the wet conditions I ride in are very tough on a bike.

> ----------
> From:     Pablo[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Pablo
> Sent:     14 March 2000 11:25
> To:     [e-mail]
> Subject:     (dr) Bearings
>=20
> Hello to all. I continue having a problem in my DR that I was not =
able to
> solve.
> The front wheel has lateral looseness. I changed 2 times the =
bearings, but
> they were well, and the wheel continues having looseness. I have
> disassembled the wheel and I have noticed that the axis that crosses =
the
> wheel, doesn't fit perfectly in the bearings (it is as if the =
diameter of
> the axis decreases some tenth of millimeter), so that the looseness =
is due
> to that to that the axis moves inside the bearings.
> could it be that the axis has worn out and have something of diameter
> lost?
> I believe that this it is the most possible answer, but I thank any =
other
> suggestion, always considering that the bearings is in perfect state, =
and
> that the problem is in the front wheel (not in the suspension). My DR =
has
> 1
> year and 22.000 km (15000 milles), most in off-road.
> Greetings
>=20
> PD: Sorry for the translation, it is made with a translator program. =
I
> sometimes believe that it is better my English (it=B4s very poor) =
that that
> of
> these translators programs (it=B4s very poor too)
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
>=20
>                            SUZUKI DR350SE
>                      "Ride the winds of change"
>=20
> The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
>=20
>=20
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>=20

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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New Muffler! - What jets?
Date: 14 Mar 2000 10:07:06 -0800

Hi Chris, Did you go with an oversize headpipe or the stock one?, and have
you cutout the top of the airbox? If you have I would recommend a 145 main
and the needle in the fourth groove on the pumper, stay with the stock
pilot. Remove the backfire screen from the intake boot. You will have to
locate a dirt model intake boot and rubber manifold to install the dirt
carb. If you use the CV carb use the 145 main, and you cannot do much with
the needle except put a small washer below the plastic one unless you have
the jx needle and spring. this needle has multi grooves and you can go to
the fourth groove down. On the CV carb remove the pilot and drill out the
orifice with a #78 drill bit it will start much easier. I have new OEM
rubber manifolds for $30.00 if you go that route. Of course you could get
the vortex Airbox to take care of the intake part.  If you have more
questions let me know.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Christopher Bruno
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 8:43 AM


Hello everybody,

Well after a winter of going gangbuster on my three major projects (house,
dirtbike, and racebike) my 1990 DR350s is almost done.

Over the winter I bored out the cylinder (only .020" over for now),
rebuilt the shock, raceteched the forks, made myself some longer links,
had the swingarm welded, put in new brake pads, replaced the rear wheel
bearings, replaced my very dented headpipe, and welded nuts onto the frame
to use the OEM plastic tank I picked up at the salvage yard.

Well, yesterday I got a new muffler - the FMF powercore IV SA.  I got this
over the megamax because many people have complained that the Megamax burned
the rear fender - that and I really like the look of the powercore.
I probably wouldn't have replaced it at all if it weren't for the fact that
the OEM muffler that was on there was pretty rusted and had a hole worn
through it.

In any case, this thing is LOUD.  So loud for me, in fact, that I considered
returning it.  But I think that considering where I ride and who I ride
with,
the volume probably will not be a problem.

What I was hoping to find out from whomever is using the same configuration
(stock airbox - Powercore IV), is what jets are you using.  I am more
interested
in those with the pumper carbs since I have one sitting on my workbench
waiting to get put in but setting up the CV carb to work would be good too.

Thanks for any input!
-Chris Bruno
1990 DR350s
1988 EX500 Racebike
1995 VFR
1975 DT175

-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New Muffler! - What jets?
Date: 14 Mar 2000 10:40:20 -0800

Chris,

I have a 93 DR350S with the exact same pipe.  I am running a 37.5 pilot, 140
main, Scotts t-Handle @ 2 1/2 turns out and the JX Spring/Needle @ 4th
position and a UNI air filter.  It seems to run clean in the high So Cal
Desert (2,500 - 4,500 feet).  Hope this helps.

Bob Ralston

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 8:43 AM


> Hello everybody,
>
> Well after a winter of going gangbuster on my three major projects (house,
> dirtbike, and racebike) my 1990 DR350s is almost done.
>
> Over the winter I bored out the cylinder (only .020" over for now),
> rebuilt the shock, raceteched the forks, made myself some longer links,
> had the swingarm welded, put in new brake pads, replaced the rear wheel
> bearings, replaced my very dented headpipe, and welded nuts onto the frame
> to use the OEM plastic tank I picked up at the salvage yard.
>
> Well, yesterday I got a new muffler - the FMF powercore IV SA.  I got this
> over the megamax because many people have complained that the Megamax
burned
> the rear fender - that and I really like the look of the powercore.
> I probably wouldn't have replaced it at all if it weren't for the fact
that
> the OEM muffler that was on there was pretty rusted and had a hole worn
> through it.
>
> In any case, this thing is LOUD.  So loud for me, in fact, that I
considered
> returning it.  But I think that considering where I ride and who I ride
with,
> the volume probably will not be a problem.
>
> What I was hoping to find out from whomever is using the same
configuration
> (stock airbox - Powercore IV), is what jets are you using.  I am more
interested
> in those with the pumper carbs since I have one sitting on my workbench
> waiting to get put in but setting up the CV carb to work would be good
too.
>
> Thanks for any input!
> -Chris Bruno
> 1990 DR350s
> 1988 EX500 Racebike
> 1995 VFR
> 1975 DT175
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Pablo" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Bearings
Date: 14 Mar 2000 22:48:53 +0100

Thanks to all to respond me. Today I have gone to the shop to try to repa=
ir
this. I have proven another new front axis, thinking that that was the
cause... BUT it CONTINUES being SLACK. They have explained to me that som=
e
laxity is normal, and I begin to believe it, because all the components o=
f
the front wheel are in perfect state (bearings and the axis, since the ne=
w
one, produces the same effect).
Me never before had noticed, and it is possible that since I bought the
bike, already has that looseness
In march anything, the bike is not noticed  it goes perfect, alone it is
noticed with the moto in stopped and moving strong the wheel toward the
sides, and it is when one notices that small laxity.

Conclusion: that I don't worry that some looseness can be normal, and mor=
e
keeping in mind that all the components are well (new bearings, and new
axis...)... another explanation doesn't find it.

They also explained to me that the axis should never be spent (lost
diameter), because the axis doesn't rotate, if not that they make it the
bearings that is to say, the axis doesn't suffer the waste of the frictio=
n.

Thank you and bye. (and sorry for my english)

_______________________________________________

                           SUZUKI DR350SE
                     "Ride the winds of change"

The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Copsey, Stephen J (Steve) <[e-mail]>
Para: [e-mail] <[e-mail]>
Fecha: martes 14 de marzo de 2000 17:53
Asunto: RE: (dr) Bearings


A difficult one to diagnose remotely. The axle should be a reasonably goo=
d
fit in the bearing - any wear on the axle caused by a seized bearing will
show quite clearly.

I'm assuming you are tightening the axle fully before doing up the four
clamp bolts ? Sorry to state the obvious but I had a bike come back from =
a
workshop with the clamp tight, but the axle completely loose !

When the axle is done up tight, the two inner parts of the bearings and t=
he
bearing spacer become a solid mass, so a small amount of difference betwe=
en
the axle and bearing can be tolerated. If the axle is excessively worn, n=
ew
bearings will remove the play, but constant pounding off-road will loosen
things as the bearings rub their sides on the axle end and fork end. You
need to check the spacer is not worn (too short) or too long as this can =
put
excessive load on the bearings and wear them out very quickly.

By the way, 15K miles off-road in one year is some serious usage - I woul=
d
be interested to share stories about how things are wearing. Mines done 1=
0k
in two years but the wet conditions I ride in are very tough on a bike.

> ----------
> From: Pablo[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To: Pablo
> Sent: 14 March 2000 11:25
> To: [e-mail]
> Subject: (dr) Bearings
>
> Hello to all. I continue having a problem in my DR that I was not able =
to
> solve.
> The front wheel has lateral looseness. I changed 2 times the bearings, =
but
> they were well, and the wheel continues having looseness. I have
> disassembled the wheel and I have noticed that the axis that crosses th=
e
> wheel, doesn't fit perfectly in the bearings (it is as if the diameter =
of
> the axis decreases some tenth of millimeter), so that the looseness is =
due
> to that to that the axis moves inside the bearings.
> could it be that the axis has worn out and have something of diameter
> lost?
> I believe that this it is the most possible answer, but I thank any oth=
er
> suggestion, always considering that the bearings is in perfect state, a=
nd
> that the problem is in the front wheel (not in the suspension). My DR h=
as
> 1
> year and 22.000 km (15000 milles), most in off-road.
> Greetings
>
> PD: Sorry for the translation, it is made with a translator program. I
> sometimes believe that it is better my English (it=B4s very poor) that =
that
> of
> these translators programs (it=B4s very poor too)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>                            SUZUKI DR350SE
>                      "Ride the winds of change"
>
> The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 14 Mar 2000 21:57:05 -0500

Wanted to say hi and start with a few questions. I am a born-again dirt
bike rider, having ridden 25 years ago... ohh that was harder to say
than to take a fall. Anyway, huge amounts of change are evident with my
latest purchase. I'm impressed with what feels fine to sit down and
cross whereas you didn't dare do that back in the old days. Progress is
a good thing.

I am interested in knocking a little speed off the bike. The local bike
shop said the largest that was available was a 53t or so rear sprocket
for the bike. Is this really so? We could get about whatever we wanted
for any bike street or trail back in the olden days... hope this isn't
true.

I have a bike that has the lost toolkit cover. I'm betting this is a
common thing. I bet this is talked about on this list far too often..
but... what do I do about that? The dealer says it ain't on the fiche.

What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?

Thanks to all.

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

-
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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 14 Mar 2000 21:05:01 -0700

John,

Sprocket Specialities will build just about any sprocket you want, and do
not charge any extra unless you want it anodized, etc. You can also go
smaller on the counter shaft sprocket to slow it down. 12 tooth being the
smallest I can find.  Figure about one tooth smaller on the front equals
approx. 3 teeth larger on the rear.  I'll bet the tool box lid comes with a
tool box from the dealer.  Maybe there is a used one out there somewhere.
If you want to slow it down from the 13/49 stock sprocket combination, you
should not have a problem with using the knobbies on the street unless the
local gustopo has problems with that. They may be a little slick if you lay
it over, but usually they will work fine, but do not wear very well.

Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR
http://www.geocities.com.com/motorcity/2299

webify wrote:

> Wanted to say hi and start with a few questions. I am a born-again dirt
> bike rider, having ridden 25 years ago... ohh that was harder to say
> than to take a fall. Anyway, huge amounts of change are evident with my
> latest purchase. I'm impressed with what feels fine to sit down and
> cross whereas you didn't dare do that back in the old days. Progress is
> a good thing.
>
> I am interested in knocking a little speed off the bike. The local bike
> shop said the largest that was available was a 53t or so rear sprocket
> for the bike. Is this really so? We could get about whatever we wanted
> for any bike street or trail back in the olden days... hope this isn't
> true.
>
> I have a bike that has the lost toolkit cover. I'm betting this is a
> common thing. I bet this is talked about on this list far too often..
> but... what do I do about that? The dealer says it ain't on the fiche.
>
> What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> --
> John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
> COG #3632
> 86 Kawasaki Concours
> 91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
> 89 Honda PC-800 Hers
> 86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
> http://www.ew3d.com
> http://www.mcrides.com/concours
>





-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 14 Mar 2000 21:45:09 -0700


--------------F2F7ADE00E7F5F564431D55F
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



njkouba wrote:

> John,
>
> Sprocket Specialities will build just about any sprocket you want, and do
> not charge any extra unless you want it anodized, etc. You can also go
> smaller on the counter shaft sprocket to slow it down. 12 tooth being the
> smallest I can find.  Figure about one tooth smaller on the front equals
> approx. 3 teeth larger on the rear.  I'll bet the tool box lid comes with a
> tool box from the dealer.  Maybe there is a used one out there somewhere.
> If you want to slow it down from the 13/49 stock sprocket combination, you
> should not have a problem with using the knobbies on the street unless the
> local gustopo has problems with that. They may be a little slick if you lay
> it over, but usually they will work fine, but do not wear very well.
>
> Norm
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> DR.  DR
> http://www.geocities.com./motorcity/2299
>
> webify wrote:
>
> > Wanted to say hi and start with a few questions. I am a born-again dirt
> > bike rider, having ridden 25 years ago... ohh that was harder to say
> > than to take a fall. Anyway, huge amounts of change are evident with my
> > latest purchase. I'm impressed with what feels fine to sit down and
> > cross whereas you didn't dare do that back in the old days. Progress is
> > a good thing.
> >
> > I am interested in knocking a little speed off the bike. The local bike
> > shop said the largest that was available was a 53t or so rear sprocket
> > for the bike. Is this really so? We could get about whatever we wanted
> > for any bike street or trail back in the olden days... hope this isn't
> > true.
> >
> > I have a bike that has the lost toolkit cover. I'm betting this is a
> > common thing. I bet this is talked about on this list far too often..
> > but... what do I do about that? The dealer says it ain't on the fiche.
> >
> > What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?
> >
> > Thanks to all.
> >
> > --
> > John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
> > COG #3632
> > 86 Kawasaki Concours
> > 91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
> > 89 Honda PC-800 Hers
> > 86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
> > http://www.ew3d.com
> > http://www.mcrides.com/concours
> >
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

--
HyperTerminal 1.0 -- HyperTerminal data file
Please do not attempt to modify this file directly.





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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>

<p>njkouba wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>John,
<p>Sprocket Specialities will build just about any sprocket you want, and
do
<br>not charge any extra unless you want it anodized, etc. You can also
go
<br>smaller on the counter shaft sprocket to slow it down. 12 tooth being
the
<br>smallest I can find.  Figure about one tooth smaller on the front
equals
<br>approx. 3 teeth larger on the rear.  I'll bet the tool box lid
comes with a
<br>tool box from the dealer.  Maybe there is a used one out there
somewhere.
<br>If you want to slow it down from the 13/49 stock sprocket combination,
you
<br>should not have a problem with using the knobbies on the street unless
the
<br>local gustopo has problems with that. They may be a little slick if
you lay
<br>it over, but usually they will work fine, but do not wear very well.
<p>Norm
<br>Suzuki DR Suspensions
<br>DR.  DR
<br><a href="http://www.geocities.com.com/motorcity/2299">http://www.geocities.com./motorcity/2299</a>
<p>webify wrote:
<p>> Wanted to say hi and start with a few questions. I am a born-again
dirt
<br>> bike rider, having ridden 25 years ago... ohh that was harder to
say
<br>> than to take a fall. Anyway, huge amounts of change are evident with
my
<br>> latest purchase. I'm impressed with what feels fine to sit down and
<br>> cross whereas you didn't dare do that back in the old days. Progress
is
<br>> a good thing.
<br>>
<br>> I am interested in knocking a little speed off the bike. The local
bike
<br>> shop said the largest that was available was a 53t or so rear sprocket
<br>> for the bike. Is this really so? We could get about whatever we wanted
<br>> for any bike street or trail back in the olden days... hope this
isn't
<br>> true.
<br>>
<br>> I have a bike that has the lost toolkit cover. I'm betting this is
a
<br>> common thing. I bet this is talked about on this list far too often..
<br>> but... what do I do about that? The dealer says it ain't on the fiche.
<br>>
<br>> What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?
<br>>
<br>> Thanks to all.
<br>>
<br>> --
<br>> John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
<br>> COG #3632
<br>> 86 Kawasaki Concours
<br>> 91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
<br>> 89 Honda PC-800 Hers
<br>> 86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
<br>> <a href="http://www.ew3d.com">http://www.ew3d.com</a>
<br>> <a href="http://www.mcrides.com/concours">http://www.mcrides.com/concours</a>
<br>>
<p>-
<br> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
<br> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
<br> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages
send
<br> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>HyperTerminal 1.0 -- HyperTerminal data file
<br>Please do not attempt to modify this file directly.
<br>
<p>
<br> </html>

--------------F2F7ADE00E7F5F564431D55F--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Pedro Azuela Inowe <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Boxed in swingarm
Date: 14 Mar 2000 21:25:45 -0800

Hey guys (and gals):
I got a question, what is the boxed swing arm i keep hearing about, and what
does it do??
And hey Wayne and Pete, are you guys coming down to Baja this weekend for
the San Felipe 250??
If you are, we can get together down there for a couple of coronas!!
See ya!!
Pedro
'97 350DR SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Boxed in swingarm
Date: 14 Mar 2000 22:31:58 -0800

Hi Pedro, take a look at the swingarm inside about two inches forward of the
axle this hollow area gets boxed in with an aluminum plate welded in which
stiffens it up. We can do that. Check out the website below for other
goodies.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Pedro Azuela Inowe
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 9:26 PM


Hey guys (and gals):
I got a question, what is the boxed swing arm i keep hearing about, and what
does it do??
And hey Wayne and Pete, are you guys coming down to Baja this weekend for
the San Felipe 250??
If you are, we can get together down there for a couple of coronas!!
See ya!!
Pedro
'97 350DR SE


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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 14 Mar 2000 22:56:51 -0800

Hi John, welcome to the list.  Norm is right you can get about any amount of
teeth you want from sprocket specialists I would recommend a larger rear and
stick with the 13 on the front that way the load is shared by more teeth on
the front and it doesn't wear out as fast. I run a 13 52 on my DR350 and it
is a 1990 model. I have made one sprocket and chain changout during that
time. If you have any more questions about your DR feel free to contact me.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of webify
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 6:57 PM


Wanted to say hi and start with a few questions. I am a born-again dirt
bike rider, having ridden 25 years ago... ohh that was harder to say
than to take a fall. Anyway, huge amounts of change are evident with my
latest purchase. I'm impressed with what feels fine to sit down and
cross whereas you didn't dare do that back in the old days. Progress is
a good thing.

I am interested in knocking a little speed off the bike. The local bike
shop said the largest that was available was a 53t or so rear sprocket
for the bike. Is this really so? We could get about whatever we wanted
for any bike street or trail back in the olden days... hope this isn't
true.

I have a bike that has the lost toolkit cover. I'm betting this is a
common thing. I bet this is talked about on this list far too often..
but... what do I do about that? The dealer says it ain't on the fiche.

What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?

Thanks to all.

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Joe Smith" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) guard for headlight
Date: 14 Mar 2000 23:06:23 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    charset="iso-8859-1"
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A while back someone posted a question about a headlight guard.  I saw =
something in an older issue of Rider tonight about a product Dual Star =
markets called a Liteguard.  I believe it is a clear plastic adhesive, =
probably the same as the headlight protector used on my Goldwing and =
actually made by 3m.  The stuff is about 1/16" thick (guess) and covers =
the light, it is fairly soft and supposed to take the impact of rocks =
and the like.  headlight performance is not affected in any way. This =
might be an option to a metal guard.
Joe=20
93 DR 350S
99 Ducati M900
96 Honda GL1500 se

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>A while back someone posted a question about a =
headlight=20
guard.  I saw something in an older issue of Rider tonight about a =
product=20
Dual Star markets called a Liteguard.  I believe it is a clear =
plastic=20
adhesive, probably the same as the headlight protector used on my =
Goldwing and=20
actually made by 3m.  The stuff is about 1/16" thick (guess) and =
covers the=20
light, it is fairly soft and supposed to take the impact of rocks and =
the=20
like.  headlight performance is not affected in any way. This might =
be an=20
option to a metal guard.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Joe </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>93 DR 350S</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>99 Ducati M900</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>96 Honda GL1500 se</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR250S Gear Ratios
Date: 15 Mar 2000 08:41:18 -0500

Anyone got gear ratios handy while I wait for my service manual to come
in? I'm using a cool program called Gear Calc to determine what speeds I
will be travelling at what RPMs in any gear. Only thing is, I need the
ratios.. and if you have it, a listed speed at what RPM in what gear.
That makes the whole thing work. For those interested, the program is at

http://www.ironjungle.com

It is free or to unlock the code he ask for one dollar. He is getting
hit with extra bandwidth charges because so many people are downloading
the file. It will tell you what a tire change will do.. or adding a
tooth or dropping teeth.. any gear.. just set it up and then pick your
RPM and gear.

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Doug B" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) guard for headlight
Date: 15 Mar 2000 07:13:41 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I use the Dual Star liteguard on my DRÆs headlight.  ItÆs good stuff.

DB

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Joe Smith
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 11:06 PM

A while back someone posted a question about a headlight guard.  I saw
something in an older issue of Rider tonight about a product Dual Star
markets called a Liteguard.  I believe it is a clear plastic adhesive,
probably the same as the headlight protector used on my Goldwing and
actually made by 3m.  The stuff is about 1/16" thick (guess) and covers the
light, it is fairly soft and supposed to take the impact of rocks and the
like.  headlight performance is not affected in any way. This might be an
option to a metal guard.
Joe
93 DR 350S
99 Ducati M900
96 Honda GL1500 se

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<div class=3DSection1>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'>I =
use the
Dual Star liteguard on my DR’s headlight.<span =
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">
</span>It’s good stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'>DB=
<o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DTahoma><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;color:black'>-----Original
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b> =
[e-mail]
[mailto:[e-mail]]<b><span =
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On Behalf
Of </span></b>Joe Smith<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, March 14, =
2000
11:06 PM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
[e-mail]<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> (dr) guard for =
headlight</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><![if =
!supportEmptyParas]> <![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>A while
back someone posted a question about a headlight guard.  I saw =
something
in an older issue of Rider tonight about a product Dual Star markets =
called a
Liteguard.  I believe it is a clear plastic adhesive, probably the =
same as
the headlight protector used on my Goldwing and actually made by =
3m.  The
stuff is about 1/16" thick (guess) and covers the light, it is =
fairly soft
and supposed to take the impact of rocks and the like.  headlight
performance is not affected in any way. This might be an option to a =
metal
guard.</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:
windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Joe =
</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>93 DR
350S</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:
windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>99
Ducati M900</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:
windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>96
Honda GL1500 se</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;
mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

</body>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Swamprider" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) One For Our Side!
Date: 15 Mar 2000 10:32:03 -0500

I know a lot of ya'll don't think this applies to you. But dual sporting is
more than Adventure Touring, It's more than Street Legal Trail Riding, It's
more than exploring. It's something we all have in common, but each of us
have a different perception. Those that like to ride roads have just as much
at stake as those that prefer trails. We're in this boat together, and Big
Brother is doing his best to shut us ALL out and off of  roads and trails in
National Forests in the East,  and BLM management areas in the West.

Swampy

>
>UNITED FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ASSOCIATIONS
>FORCES U.S. FOREST SERVICE
>TO SETTLE OUT OF COURT
>
>
>
>United Four Wheel Drive Associations, the nation's leading representative
of
>four wheel
>drive enthusiasts, has compelled the Federal Government to sign a
settlement
>agreement
>prohibiting the US Forest Service from categorically closing roads or using
>the term
>"unroaded" in establishing roadless areas for Wilderness designation.
>
>"Under the terms of the settlement agreement the Forest Service is banned
>from using the
>Road Moratorium to close a single mile of road", stated Carla Boucher,
>author of the
>agreement and nationally recognized attorney for United.   "United obtained
>evidence that
>many, if not all, of the national forests were using the Temporary Road
>Moratorium to
>create de facto wilderness areas as part of forest planning", stated
>Boucher, who
>predicted in early 1998 that this was the plan of the Forest Service all
>along.  "This
>agreement prevents the creation of de facto wilderness, protecting nearly
>347,000 miles of
>access for motorized recreationists", remarked Boucher.
>
> For more information about the settlement agreement contact United by
>calling Carla
>Boucher at 757-482-4474.
>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) my rear end...
Date: 15 Mar 2000 13:45:15 EST

Norm...

#1 The rear spring from White Brothers is on order.. 2 to 3 weeks!.. and I'll
still have to machine a collar to make up for a difference in diameter... and
it'll be shorter than stock...  one of the problems when buying aftermarket
shocks..(Progressive 420).. I would've stayed with the  stock shock..

#2 The 420 is a  17.2 inch long shock.. measuring without the spring I get
close to 9 inches of rear wheel travel...(#2 notch on the chainadjuster)  how
long is the stock dirt DR shock? and will the Kouba Link affect this number?
( You once said the links will pick up 1 1/2 inches of useable travel)...
My Clymers manual claims 11 inches of rear wheel travel!! Liars!

Guy

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From: Brian Bucknam <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 15 Mar 2000 11:09:46 -0800

At 09:57 PM 3/14/00 -0500, John Hinton wrote:
>What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?

I can't really address your sprocket and toolkit cover questions, but I can
answer this one:
1 - they'll slide if you go around corners at normal street-bike speeds or
use your brakes with any force
2 - they'll make a lot of noise
3 - they'll wear out ("square off") really quickly
4 - and, of course, you'll probably be breaking some motor vehicle
regulations in your state

Brian
---------------------
92 TDM 850
99 SV650-S
92 DR350S
92 GS500


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Fork oil?
Date: 15 Mar 2000 15:15:46 -0600



I have a '95 DR350SE that is under a conversion to the dirt only. The guy I
bought it from had the forks sent out to ProCircuit for a rebuild/revalve. My
question is this, what weight oil should I use? He and I are about the same,
weight wise, so I'm not sure on which to use.

Ric
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bill england" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) CDI BOX-dr350.....HELP!
Date: 15 Mar 2000 19:42:20 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BF8EB6.940DFD00
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in need of a new CDI box. Motor starts, =
but misses and is jerky when riding.  At idle the rpm wavers, engine =
accelerates great. This just started after the battery died and I =
replaced it. A bud told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen this =
before and if so how can I change the box out myself ($300 for the box) =
it dosen't look to hard, tricks or tips ?? Thanks.....

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BF8EB6.940DFD00
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in need =
of a new CDI=20
box. Motor starts, but misses and is jerky when riding.  At idle =
the rpm=20
wavers, engine accelerates great. This just started after the battery =
died and I=20
replaced it. A bud told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen this =
before and if=20
so how can I change the box out myself ($300 for the box) it dosen't =
look to=20
hard, tricks or tips ?? Thanks.....</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BF8EB6.940DFD00--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New to the list and the DR
Date: 15 Mar 2000 19:43:09 -0800

>At 09:57 PM 3/14/00 -0500, John Hinton wrote:
>>What happens if I run my "Not for highway use" knobbies on the street?

I use dirt knobbies on the street, always.  They wear quickly, but I burn
them down to the casing, so I still get decent miles.  I have on occasion
put street tires on for a long asphlalt trip, but not often.

You can't lay into turns with knobbies like you can with street tires.  One
way to look at it is: knobbies have more grip on  asphalt than on gravel.
So if you enjoy gravel, then asphalt is no suprise.  Wet asphalt (with
knobbies) is a different story....

Tom

+-------------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products
|  701 34th Ave
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|
|  Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com/mc
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
|  tel [phone]       fax [phone]
+-------------------------------------------+



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) CDI BOX-dr350.....HELP!
Date: 15 Mar 2000 20:08:43 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF8EBA.434638C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Bill its the first that I have heard of this happening to a DR350.  I
would do some serious checking on the canister,  hoses vents etc before I
went for the 300.00 CDI I will check and see if I can do better on the price
in case you really need one. What preceded the battery change long winter
storage? maybe we can figure this out getback to me .

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/


-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of bill england
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 7:42 PM


Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in need of a new CDI box. Motor starts, but
misses and is jerky when riding.  At idle the rpm wavers, engine accelerates
great. This just started after the battery died and I replaced it. A bud
told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen this before and if so how can I
change the box out myself ($300 for the box) it dosen't look to hard, tricks
or tips ?? Thanks.....

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF8EBA.434638C0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D50395803-16032000>Hi Bill=20
its the first that I have heard of this happening to a DR350.  I =
would do=20
some serious checking on the canister,  hoses vents etc before I =
went for=20
the 300.00 CDI I will check and see if I can do better on the price in =
case you=20
really need one. What preceded the battery change long winter =
storage?=20
maybe we can figure this out getback to me . </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A =
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[e-mail]=20
[mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of</B> bill=20
england<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 15, 2000 7:42 PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
[e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) CDI=20
BOX-dr350.....HELP!<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in need =
of a new CDI=20
box. Motor starts, but misses and is jerky when riding.  At idle =
the rpm=20
wavers, engine accelerates great. This just started after the battery =
died and I=20
replaced it. A bud told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen this =
before and if=20
so how can I change the box out myself ($300 for the box) it dosen't =
look to=20
hard, tricks or tips ?? Thanks.....</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF8EBA.434638C0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Supertrapp Pro
Date: 15 Mar 2000 23:32:09 -0500

I'm wondering how many disks most people are running on their DR250Ss.
I'm also getting some soot with 9 disks. Is this normal or has someone
been into this bikes carb and rejetted a bit too rich? Air filter is
clean. Haven't pulled the plug yet :(....

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff Corsaro" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) CDI BOX-dr350.....HELP!
Date: 15 Mar 2000 20:33:41 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF8EBD.C01C3360
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

    Usually the CDI boxes work or they don't work.  If you think it is an
electrical problem you can try the following.  Check to coils (both the
ignition and magneto) with an ohm meter and make sure they are with in
factory specs, before your replace the CDI box.  Also check the wiring to
the kill switch and replace the spark plug. You might try to get another CDI
box to test on your bike before you waste $300.  Make sure it is for the
later DR350, the early ones are incompatible.  I don't think the battery
makes a difference on the DR, the CDI is powered by its own exciter coil in
the magneto.  If you do need to replace it, its under the seat and easy to
get too.  I would check with the dealer, before you mess with it, since your
bike is a 99'.

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego

 -----Original Message-----
Behalf Of bill england
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 7:42 PM


  Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in need of a new CDI box. Motor starts, but
misses and is jerky when riding.  At idle the rpm wavers, engine accelerates
great. This just started after the battery died and I replaced it. A bud
told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen this before and if so how can I
change the box out myself ($300 for the box) it dosen't look to hard, tricks
or tips ?? Thanks.....

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF8EBD.C01C3360
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT color=3D#0000ff><FONT face=3DArial><SPAN=20
class=3D350241504-16032000>    Usually <SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>the </SPAN>CDI boxes work or <SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>they </SPAN>don't work.  <SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>If you think it is a</SPAN><SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>n electrical problem you can try the =
following. =20
</SPAN>Check to coils (both the ignition and magneto) with an ohm=20
meter <SPAN class=3D320082004-16032000>and make sure =
the</SPAN><SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>y a</SPAN><SPAN class=3D320082004-16032000>re =
with in=20
fact</SPAN><SPAN class=3D320082004-16032000>ory specs</SPAN><SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>, </SPAN>before your replace the CDI =
box.  Also=20
check the wiring to the kill switch and replace the spark plug. You =
might try to=20
get another CDI box to test on your bike before you waste $300.  =
Make sure=20
it is for the later DR350, the early ones are incompatible.  I =
don't think=20
the battery makes a difference on<SPAN class=3D320082004-16032000> =
</SPAN>the DR,=20
the CDI is powered by its own exciter coil in the magneto.  If you =
do need=20
to replace it, its under the seat and easy to get too.<SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000>  I would check with the dealer, before =
you mess=20
with it, since your bike is a =
99'.</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D350241504-16032000></SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> </FONT></DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff><FONT size=3D2><FONT =
face=3DArial>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D350241504-16032000>Jeff Corsaro in San =
Diego<BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D350241504-16032000><SPAN=20
class=3D320082004-16032000> </SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
face=3DTahoma></FONT><FONT size=3D2>-----Original =
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
[e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On =
Behalf Of=20
</B>bill england<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 15, 2000 7:42 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
[e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) CDI=20
BOX-dr350.....HELP!<BR><BR></DIV></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Howdy All, I think my 99 DR is in =
need of a new=20
  CDI box. Motor starts, but misses and is jerky when riding.  At =
idle the=20
  rpm wavers, engine accelerates great. This just started after the =
battery died=20
  and I replaced it. A bud told me it is the cdi box, has anyone seen =
this=20
  before and if so how can I change the box out myself ($300 for the =
box) it=20
  dosen't look to hard, tricks or tips ??=20
Thanks.....</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF8EBD.C01C3360--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Supertrapp Pro
Date: 15 Mar 2000 21:06:27 -0800

Plug should be chocolate brown.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of webify
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 8:32 PM


I'm wondering how many disks most people are running on their DR250Ss.
I'm also getting some soot with 9 disks. Is this normal or has someone
been into this bikes carb and rejetted a bit too rich? Air filter is
clean. Haven't pulled the plug yet :(....

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) fork swap
Date: 16 Mar 2000 07:59:07 -0600

Hi list, I came across a 1989 RMX 250 without a motor.  The guy would sell
it to me for $200.  It has the upside down forks on it.  Does anybody know
if the forks and triple clamps will fit my 99 DR 350X?  I was thinking about
buying it if at has some compatible parts for my bike.

Thanks, Chris

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Staskiewicz, Frank" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR350S Gearing
Date: 16 Mar 2000 09:48:02 -0500


Hi,

 I bought a used 1994 DR350S. I'm trying to determine the stock front/rear
sprocket sizes. The manual lists 'Final Reduction Ratio.......2.733 (41/15).
Is the 41/15 the stock spocket sizes?

Thanks,

Frank


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) fork swap
Date: 16 Mar 2000 07:17:57 -0800

Hi Chris, get it now, the forks can be made to fit easily, also the shock.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris Tobey
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 5:59 AM


Hi list, I came across a 1989 RMX 250 without a motor.  The guy would sell
it to me for $200.  It has the upside down forks on it.  Does anybody know
if the forks and triple clamps will fit my 99 DR 350X?  I was thinking about
buying it if at has some compatible parts for my bike.

Thanks, Chris

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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350S Gearing
Date: 16 Mar 2000 14:59:17 -0000

Hi Frank

This depends on the country and yes it is the sprocket sizes. The later UK
model like mine uses 15/43 which is a good road gear. Most of us use 14/43
or equivalent for trail/road use. Lower if you only go off-road.

> ----------
> From:     Staskiewicz, Frank[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Staskiewicz, Frank
> Sent:     16 March 2000 14:48
> To:     '[e-mail]'
> Subject:     (dr) DR350S Gearing
>
>
> Hi,
>
>  I bought a used 1994 DR350S. I'm trying to determine the stock front/rear
> sprocket sizes. The manual lists 'Final Reduction Ratio.......2.733
> (41/15).
> Is the 41/15 the stock spocket sizes?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Staskiewicz, Frank" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350S Gearing
Date: 16 Mar 2000 14:14:17 -0500

Thanks for helping me confirm that my bike does still have its stock 15/41
sprockets. I am looking for the happy medium between on and off road in
sprocket sizes. Should I go with the suggested 14/43 as stated or is there a
specific formula for figuring this out. I'm not sure if different year
DR350's are geared differently for a specific reason. I find nothing in the
manual on going to different sprocket sizes. Any input will help me greatly.

Thanks,

Frank

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 9:59 AM


Hi Frank

This depends on the country and yes it is the sprocket sizes. The later UK
model like mine uses 15/43 which is a good road gear. Most of us use 14/43
or equivalent for trail/road use. Lower if you only go off-road.

> ----------
> From:     Staskiewicz, Frank[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     Staskiewicz, Frank
> Sent:     16 March 2000 14:48
> To:     '[e-mail]'
> Subject:     (dr) DR350S Gearing
>
>
> Hi,
>
>  I bought a used 1994 DR350S. I'm trying to determine the stock front/rear
> sprocket sizes. The manual lists 'Final Reduction Ratio.......2.733
> (41/15).
> Is the 41/15 the stock spocket sizes?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350S Gearing
Date: 16 Mar 2000 11:32:13 -0800

"Staskiewicz, Frank" wrote:
>
> Thanks for helping me confirm that my bike does still have its stock 15/41
> sprockets. I am looking for the happy medium between on and off road in
> sprocket sizes. Should I go with the suggested 14/43 as stated or is there a
> specific formula for figuring this out. I'm not sure if different year
> DR350's are geared differently for a specific reason. I find nothing in the
> manual on going to different sprocket sizes. Any input will help me greatly.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank
>
Hi Frank,
    I've been changing primary sprockets on my 98 DR350SE. The factory
gearing is okay for street and mild off road. The 14 tooth is better off
road, but only needed if you want a bit more downhill engine braking. It
makes the bike a bit buzzy on the road. The 13 tooth would only be
needed for extreme off road, and not too usable on road.
    Please remember to clip all except the pertinent part from the message
you respond to. This one had about three of the previous messages.
Listers with slow connections will appreciate this.
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350S Gearing
Date: 16 Mar 2000 16:39:56 -0800 (PST)

I have a 98SE and the stock gearing is 15-41.Jesse
pionted out the fact that it is better to stay with
the 15 front and increase the rear sprocket.This
allows more teeth to grab with a 15 than a 14 and the
sprocket will last longer at least in my case and I
agree.

--- "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
wrote:
> Hi Frank
>
> This depends on the country and yes it is the
> sprocket sizes. The later UK
> model like mine uses 15/43 which is a good road
> gear. Most of us use 14/43
> or equivalent for trail/road use. Lower if you only
> go off-road.
>
> > ----------
> > From:     Staskiewicz,
> Frank[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> > Reply To:     Staskiewicz, Frank
> > Sent:     16 March 2000 14:48
> > To:     '[e-mail]'
> > Subject:     (dr) DR350S Gearing
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> >  I bought a used 1994 DR350S. I'm trying to
> determine the stock front/rear
> > sprocket sizes. The manual lists 'Final Reduction
> Ratio.......2.733
> > (41/15).
> > Is the 41/15 the stock spocket sizes?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
> > -
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New Lister
Date: 16 Mar 2000 19:05:24 -0600

    Hi all!!!!!

    This is my first post here-----I haven't even been lurking. But anyway I
just purchased my DRZ400S (Street Legal Model) today and will take possesion
tomorrow!!!! Boy did I make a few people mad that were hoping to get the
first one to the showroom floor!!! I just happened to be in the shop when
the truck called and said they were delivering a Hyabusa and a duaslport
tomorrow (Friday)-------I said "it's mine". Here's the money. Come to
Daddy!!!! "The Hyabusa???" Heck No----"The Dualsport"!!!
    I'm not new to DR's at all-----I tried to wear out 2 ( a 1990 and 1991)
and just couldn't get the job done. Well I had a short stint with an XR, and
can't wait to try out the new Suzuki!!!  I do have a "Strictly Dirt" bike
which I will use for the extreme rides----not that the Suzuki won't be up to
the task, but I am planning on doing a lot of backroading and milder trial
riding with this bike and not put it to the abuse of my Knobby tired rip-em
up bike!! I will be doing quite a bit of 2-up with it. My wife is tiny---
4'8". Can't hardly tell she's there.

    I have question----which may be a bit to early for anyone to answer
since this bike is so new. I am going to the higher elevations of Colorado
this summer again. I will be taking my Transalp and the new Suzuki with me.
Anybody tried High elevations (11,000 ft.) yet???????  With stock
jetting????? I have had to always jet my previous dirt bikes---but I do
beleive the new Suzuki will have a constant velocity carburator and may
handle the high elevations a little better?????

    Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks!!
Mark Sampson
[e-mail]


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "bill england" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) CDI BOX
Date: 16 Mar 2000 18:04:21 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF8F72.0E605060
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks Jeff and Jesse for the help. I check all hoses and wires, spark =
plug and lead. I'm told by folks that the cdi controls the timeing and =
the bike runs like the timeing is in error. I order the box today and =
will get it in a week, I'll let the list know how it went. Again thanks =
for the support. And also this is a Dr350SE and I ride it weekly, I use =
it at work (Forest Service) and play.
Stay tuned.......

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF8F72.0E605060
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks Jeff and Jesse for the help. I =
check all=20
hoses and wires, spark plug and lead. I'm told by folks that the cdi =
controls=20
the timeing and the bike runs like the timeing is in error. I order the =
box=20
today and will get it in a week, I'll let the list know how it went. =
Again=20
thanks for the support. And also this is a Dr350SE and I ride it weekly, =
I use=20
it at work (Forest Service) and play.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Stay=20
tuned.......</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BF8F72.0E605060--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Adjusting "Sag"?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:05:56 -0600



I have a '95 DR350SE that is no longer street legal. I have a rebuit stock rear
end and ProCircuit revalved front forks. I was wondering what the sag settings
should be and how to adjust them properly?

I am going to purchase the Kouba Links for the rear end. Do I need to wait till
I install these before I adjust the sag?

Jesse, you did say 7.5 weight Motul fork oil right? Did you ever check out that
rear fender from Maier?

Ric Aruffo
'89 CB-1
'95 DR350SE
2- '87 XR100R
'70 CT70 "Honda Mini-Trail"
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Vortex air box?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:15:38 -0600



Jesse,
Does the same box work on the DR350SE that goes on the DR350/350S?

Ric
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
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intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hoge, Neill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350 dirt
Date: 17 Mar 2000 10:41:04 -0500

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
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------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9027.37FCC560
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I bought a Baja light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and
finally got around to getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is
done, but he informed me over the phone that there is no front brake light
with the kit. Since I broke the stock tail light the first time I rode it, I
can't recall for sure if the front brake light existed stock. Can someone
help me out?

Thanks,

Neill
99 dr350
Virginia, US.

------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9027.37FCC560
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>I bought a Baja
light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and finally got around to
getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is done, but he informed me over
the phone that there is no front brake light with the kit. Since I broke the
stock tail light the first time I rode it, I can't recall for sure if the front
brake light existed stock. Can someone help me out? </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>Thanks,
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=968363115-17032000>Neill</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>99
dr350</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>Virginia,
US.</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9027.37FCC560--

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Adjusting "Sag"?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:41:29 -0700

Ric,
When you install the Kouba Links you will need to reset the sag as they change the
progression ratio's on the rear spring.  Also we reccomend 2.5" of sag for the best
results and Suzuki reccomends 3.9" with the stock links.  The Kouba Link
installation directions on our web-page may be a better explanation.
Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299


[e-mail] wrote:

> I have a '95 DR350SE that is no longer street legal. I have a rebuit stock rear
> end and ProCircuit revalved front forks. I was wondering what the sag settings
> should be and how to adjust them properly?
>
> I am going to purchase the Kouba Links for the rear end. Do I need to wait till
> I install these before I adjust the sag?
>
> Jesse, you did say 7.5 weight Motul fork oil right? Did you ever check out that
> rear fender from Maier?
>
> Ric Aruffo
> '89 CB-1
> '95 DR350SE
> 2- '87 XR100R
> '70 CT70 "Honda Mini-Trail"


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Vortex air box?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:34:48 -0800

The Vortex airbox, fits on all DR350's 90 thru 99 dirt models as well as
dual purpose models, also both DR 250 models.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 7:16 AM




Jesse,
Does the same box work on the DR350SE that goes on the DR350/350S?

Ric
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.
Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Adjusting "Sag"?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:45:23 -0800

Yes I have a rear fender coming and will post a photo on my website when I
get it mounted. About the sag I would wait till you get your kouba links  as
your sag will change with them on. I usually set the front sag at 1 inch
difference with no weight ( wheel off the ground) to weight with you on it
on the ground. without the kouba links adjust the rear the same way only a 4
inch difference

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of [e-mail]
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 7:06 AM




I have a '95 DR350SE that is no longer street legal. I have a rebuit stock
rear
end and ProCircuit revalved front forks. I was wondering what the sag
settings
should be and how to adjust them properly?

I am going to purchase the Kouba Links for the rear end. Do I need to wait
till
I install these before I adjust the sag?

Jesse, you did say 7.5 weight Motul fork oil right? Did you ever check out
that
rear fender from Maier?

Ric Aruffo
'89 CB-1
'95 DR350SE
2- '87 XR100R
'70 CT70 "Honda Mini-Trail"
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.
Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350 dirt
Date: 17 Mar 2000 09:49:39 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Hoge, I would call baja,  you did not have any brake lights on your dirt
model in the beginning.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/


-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Hoge, Neill
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 7:41 AM


I bought a Baja light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and
finally got around to getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is
done, but he informed me over the phone that there is no front brake light
with the kit. Since I broke the stock tail light the first time I rode it, I
can't recall for sure if the front brake light existed stock. Can someone
help me out?

Thanks,

Neill
99 dr350
Virginia, US.

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF8FF6.1CEEC4C0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D300254717-17032000>Hi=20
Hoge, I would call baja,  you did not have any brake lights on your =
dirt=20
model in the beginning.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A =
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[e-mail]=20
[mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Hoge,=20
Neill<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 17, 2000 7:41 AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
[e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) rear brake light on 99 =
dr350=20
dirt<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D968363115-17032000>I =
bought a Baja=20
light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and finally got =
around to=20
getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is done, but he informed =
me over=20
the phone that there is no front brake light with the kit. Since I broke =
the=20
stock tail light the first time I rode it, I can't recall for sure if =
the front=20
brake light existed stock. Can someone help me out? </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D968363115-17032000>Thanks,=20
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D968363115-17032000>Neill</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D968363115-17032000>99=20
dr350</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D968363115-17032000>Virginia,=20
US.</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF8FF6.1CEEC4C0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hoge, Neill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350 dirt
Date: 17 Mar 2000 13:51:51 -0500

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9041.DE4DC198
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks for the reply!
I was afraid of that. I was under the impression (per web site) that the kit
I ordered contained all necessary components to street legal it. This was in
Sept or Oct. They have since modified their web page. Do a search for dr350
now, and I get is tank graphics for $49.95. Yeehaw. I called them. They said
that that is a SEPARATE kit (for the front brake light) and requires a
separate harness blah, blah ... I have called VA DMV, VA State Police,,
looked at the VA State Website and haven't gotten a firm requirement, but I
suspect this will be a problem. Just to let the group know. If anyone in VA
(or elsewhere) knows if the front brake light is required I would be
grateful.

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 12:50


Hi Hoge, I would call baja,  you did not have any brake lights on your dirt
model in the beginning.


Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/ <http://www.kientech.com/>


-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Hoge, Neill
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 7:41 AM


I bought a Baja light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and
finally got around to getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is
done, but he informed me over the phone that there is no front brake light
with the kit. Since I broke the stock tail light the first time I rode it, I
can't recall for sure if the front brake light existed stock. Can someone
help me out?

Thanks,

Neill
99 dr350
Virginia, US.


------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9041.DE4DC198
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">


<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=546283418-17032000>Thanks
for the reply!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=546283418-17032000>I was
afraid of that. I was under the impression (per web site) that the kit I ordered
contained all necessary components to street legal it. This was in Sept or Oct.
They have since modified their web page. Do a search for dr350 now, and I get is
tank graphics for $49.95. Yeehaw. I called them. They said that that is a
SEPARATE kit (for the front brake light) and requires a separate harness blah,
blah ... I have called VA DMV, VA State Police,, looked at the VA State Website
and haven't gotten a firm requirement, but I suspect this will be a problem.
Just to let the group know. If anyone in VA (or elsewhere) knows if the front
brake light is required I would be grateful.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Jesse Kientz
  www.kientech.com [mailto:[e-mail]]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 17, 2000
  12:50<BR><B>To:</B> Hoge, Neill; [e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE:
  (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350 dirt<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=300254717-17032000>Hi
  Hoge, I would call baja,  you did not have any brake lights on your dirt
  model in the beginning.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <P><FONT size=2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A href="http://www.kientech.com/"
  target=_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
  <DIV> </DIV>
  <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader><FONT face="Times New Roman"
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> [e-mail]
  [mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Hoge,
  Neill<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 17, 2000 7:41 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
  [e-mail]<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350
  dirt<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>I bought a Baja
  light kit for my 350 (trying to make it street legal) and finally got around
  to getting it installed (by someone else) Well, he is done, but he informed me
  over the phone that there is no front brake light with the kit. Since I broke
  the stock tail light the first time I rode it, I can't recall for sure if the
  front brake light existed stock. Can someone help me out? </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
  class=968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>Thanks,
  </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
  class=968363115-17032000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN
  class=968363115-17032000>Neill</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>99
  dr350</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=968363115-17032000>Virginia,
  US.</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------_=_NextPart_001_01BF9041.DE4DC198--

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 14:32:45 -0600




How do I correct a bike running rich(This may be my problem with stalling and
difficult starts while hot).

Set-up: '95 DR350SE
Dyno-Jet Stage 3 jetting - I only know the main jet is one size up from the
stock jet. The needle is on the 3rd notch(?).
Supertrapp 4" Pro Series Muffler - no discs! Yeh Baby!
Top cut off of airbox with stock air filter. - soon to buy a K&N

This is how I bought the bike, so I've never messed with it.

Ric
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 15:46:57 -0500

Ric,

My friend has a K&N air filter - but he can't get it installed.
I've heard alot about this on the list.  Maybe others can comment.

He finally gave up and is using an Air Twin.

Just a heads up so you don't waste your hard-earned money.

Mark


ric.aruffo wrote:
>
> How do I correct a bike running rich(This may be my problem with stalling and
> difficult starts while hot).
>
> Set-up: '95 DR350SE
> Dyno-Jet Stage 3 jetting - I only know the main jet is one size up from the
> stock jet. The needle is on the 3rd notch(?).
> Supertrapp 4" Pro Series Muffler - no discs! Yeh Baby!
> Top cut off of airbox with stock air filter. - soon to buy a K&N
>
> This is how I bought the bike, so I've never messed with it.
>
> Ric
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
> it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
> review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
> in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
> intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
> contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

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From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 14:49:45 -0600

I had the same problem when I bought a K&N air filter.  I ended up taking it
back and getting a UNI.

Chris
99 DR350X

> -----Original Message-----
> From:    Mark Sims [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:    Friday, March 17, 2000 2:47 PM
> To:    ric.aruffo
> Cc:    [e-mail]
> Subject:    Re: (dr) Running rich?
>
> Ric,
>
> My friend has a K&N air filter - but he can't get it installed.
> I've heard alot about this on the list.  Maybe others can comment.
>
> He finally gave up and is using an Air Twin.
>
> Just a heads up so you don't waste your hard-earned money.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ric.aruffo wrote:
> >
> > How do I correct a bike running rich(This may be my problem with
> stalling and
> > difficult starts while hot).
> >
> > Set-up: '95 DR350SE
> > Dyno-Jet Stage 3 jetting - I only know the main jet is one size up from
> the
> > stock jet. The needle is on the 3rd notch(?).
> > Supertrapp 4" Pro Series Muffler - no discs! Yeh Baby!
> > Top cut off of airbox with stock air filter. - soon to buy a K&N
> >
> > This is how I bought the bike, so I've never messed with it.
> >
> > Ric
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------
> > The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
> which
> > it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.
> Any
> > review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any
> action
> > in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
> > intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error,
> please
> > contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.
> >
> > -
> >  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> >  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> >  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> >  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 17 Mar 2000 16:27:36 -0800

Chris Tobey wrote:
>
> I had the same problem when I bought a K&N air filter.  I ended up taking it
> back and getting a UNI.
>
> Chris
> 99 DR350X
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Mark Sims [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> > Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 2:47 PM
> > To:   ric.aruffo
> > Cc:   [e-mail]
> > Subject:      Re: (dr) Running rich?
> >
> > Ric,
> >
> > My friend has a K&N air filter - but he can't get it installed.
> > I've heard alot about this on the list.  Maybe others can comment.
> >
> > He finally gave up and is using an Air Twin.
> >
> > Just a heads up so you don't waste your hard-earned money.
> >
> > Mark
Mark and all,
    I put a K&N in my 98 DR350SE. No problem getting the filter in, but
aligning the bolt that holds it in is a real trick. I finally managed to
do it, but next time it comes out for cleaning I'll make a different
guide, like they have for the stock filter. You can't use that in the
K&N, perhaps that's why you had a problem. Give it another try, it does
fit!
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Andrew <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Handlebars
Date: 18 Mar 2000 07:58:44 -0800

Hi Everyone!

I'd like to replace the stock bars on my '99 350SE with some taller
ones.  The two options seem to be Renthal Jimmy Button or Desert High
Bend.  I thinkd the Desert High Bend are a little wider and swept back
more.  Any advice on these?  Will my controls reach to remount properly
on either?

Thanks,

Andy Campbell
99 DR350SE

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From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) rear brake light on 99 dr350 dirt
Date: 18 Mar 2000 11:16:48 -0500

Did you find the MC section in the DMV/Inspection rules for VA? If not I
can dig up a URL for it. Otherwise, you about need a lawyer to read it
or better yet, go ask your local inspection station. It is how they
"interpret" the rules regarding your getting the sticker. For safety
reasons, I would want the front brake to trigger the stoplamp. Switching
bikes and maybe having a friend switch bikes could lead to a bad
situation. I often times don't use or let off the rear brake on my
street bike. On the road, it seems I've had way more near misses and one
that wasn't a miss.. all from the rear end and two really bad ones
prevented by my eye being in the mirror. Its tough enough for people to
see the brake light already.


--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Chain tension and more low end torque.
Date: 18 Mar 2000 11:41:16 -0500

As I still sit waiting for my service manual to show up....

Can someone tell me how to set the right chain tension?

Anybody got good ideas about how to make the DR250S walk along a little
better. A bit more like a trials bike.. I guess I'm going to do a larger
rear sprocket as it already has a 12 on the front. More low end torque
would be nice as well... I don't want to lose too much top end speed as
I'd like to be able to travel at 60 if needed.

TIA
--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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From: "Swamprider" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) More On Settlement Agreement
Date: 18 Mar 2000 17:23:45 -0500



Here' Some More On The United 4-Wheel Drive organizations Victory against
The US Forest Service!

Swampy
______________________________________________
> I wanted to share this resonse from Carla...
>
>
>On Fri, 17 Mar 2000 09:25:12 -0500 C Boucher <[e-mail]> wrote:
>>
>>>  Now does this help a guy like me who likes to ride the single tracks?
>>>  Thanks for your time and effort in this cause.
>  Dan Paulsen
>
>>Mr. Paulsen,  the settlement agreement helps you in several ways.  First,
it prohibits the
>>Forest Service from confusing motorized trails with roads.  Under the
agreement the FS is
>>prohibited from halting planned construction or maintenance of motorized
trails, whether
>>over 50" or under 50" in width, even in Roadless and unroaded areas.
Motorized trails
>>under 50" in width are those associated with ATV and motorcycle trails.
>>
>>Second, the agreement prohibits the FS from using the terms unroaded (any
area without a
>>classified road), classified road, unclassified road, and road.  This
means that the FS is
>>prohibited from classifying an area as unroaded and counting it as part of
their Roadless
>>area review and recommendation (for Wilderness) even in areas that are
riddled with ATV,
>>motorcycle, or 4x4 roads/trails.  This will prevent the FS from managing
areas riddled
>>with roads and ATV trails as Wilderness and kicking us off these areas.
>>
>>I hope that clarifies things.
>>
>>Yours truly,
>>
>>Carla Boucher, Esq.
>>United Four Wheel Drive Associations
>>P.O. Box 15696
>>Chesapeake, VA  23328
>>[phone]
>>[e-mail]
>>
>>
>
>  Dan  Graham WA
>  COG 2877, AMA 549865, CMA, UMCI
> '93 KLX650R Baja d/s kit  'Dirt Boss'
> '00 KLR650   'Urban Assault Bike'
> '98 Kaw Concours ZG1000   'Grrr'
> '70 Suzuki T500 Titan  'Dayjavoo'
> Yo Ho, Yo Ho, it's a bikers life for me!
>
>Visit the KLR650 archives at
>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
>Support Dual Sport News... [e-mail]
>To subscribe/unsubscribe send message
>to [e-mail]
>leave subject blank. In the body of the message type:
>subscribe/unsubscribe klr650 or klr650-digest.
>Let's keep this List SPAM free.
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) chain tension
Date: 19 Mar 2000 01:02:05 -0500

Still could use some help on how to set chain tension on a DR250S...
Need to know how much slack when bike is on work stand. I really would
like to ride tomorrow.. or later today....

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Rainer)
Subject: Re: (dr) chain tension
Date: 19 Mar 2000 12:53:03 +0100

I am not shure about the DR 250, but I would suggest you to set the chain
tension so that you can move it 1.5-1.75" free in the middle of the chain
(=  0.75" up and down).

Hope this helps
Rainer


webify schrieb:

> Still could use some help on how to set chain tension on a DR250S...
> Need to know how much slack when bike is on work stand. I really would
> like to ride tomorrow.. or later today....
>
> --
> John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
> COG #3632
> 86 Kawasaki Concours
> 91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
> 89 Honda PC-800 Hers
> 86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
> http://www.ew3d.com
> http://www.mcrides.com/concours
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Wesley Woolfall" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Fw: warning !
Date: 19 Mar 2000 17:56:05 -0000


-----Original Message-----
podge <[e-mail]>; paul baldwin
<[e-mail]>; mick rowe <[e-mail]>;
colin dallas <[e-mail]>; Bob (Sol) szolomicki
<[e-mail]>


 Just passing the message on.

            I have just received this e-mail:

            URGENT INFORMATION
            Someone is sending out a very cute screen saver
            of the Budweiser Frogs. If you download it, you will
            lose everything! Your hard drive will crash and
            someone from the Internet will get your screen name
            and password! DO NOT DOWNLOAD IT UNDER ANY
            CIRCUMSTANCES! It just went into circulation
            yesterday, as far as we know. Please distribute this
            message. This is a new, very malicious virus and
            not many people know about it. This information was
            announced yesterday morning from Microsoft. Please
            share it with everyone that might access the Internet.
            Once again, pass this along to EVERYONE in your
            address book so that this may be stopped. AOL has said
            this is a very dangerous virus and that there is NO
            remedy for it at this time.
            Please practice cautionary measures and forward this
            to all your on-line friends.





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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Handlebars
Date: 20 Mar 2000 07:36:59 -0800

Andrew,

I run the Renthal Jimmy Button bars on my 93 DR350S and love them.  These
bars were described as being as high as the Desert bars but with a Motocross
bend.  The put me up farther on the front end and seemed to make the bike
turn better.  I also just put on the Applied Racing top tripple clamp with
the higher mounts and this made a huge difference in standing comfort.

Bob Ralston

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension, Applied
Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, Scotts and other Thumper
Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing
arm bracing.
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Gearing cont
Date: 20 Mar 2000 16:26:34 -0000

Another thought on gearing -

As the weather here has been so dry the past few weeks I put my summer gears
on to do a long ride on Sunday on some fast tracks. That is 15/43 from the
usual winter 14/43.

Well, on the road it felt much more relaxed, but get it up to 70 into a
headwind and it really struggled. With the 14/43 it pulls 70 really easy and
will even hold 80 but is revving very high.

Off-road with the higher gearing was OK but as the gear spacing is higher
you can end up revving it more in each gear until the next higher is ready,
so the engine is working more. Also it wont accelerate so hard in top which
becomes a bit of an overdrive.

So you end up with a heavily loaded low revving engine or a revvy, easy
spinning one. The latter is probably preferable for the engine apart from
the valve gear. I would like to try adding a tooth at the rear to help it
along without the buzzy feeling with 14/43. And perhaps the air box mod will
help as well.

By the way, I am 155 pounds, anyone bigger than this will need the lower
gearing anyway, in my opinion.

Steve

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400S
Date: 20 Mar 2000 14:23:28 -0600

    I'm new to the list------is this a DR350 only site, or is DRZ400 posts
OK??????

    If they are----here is my first ride impression. If not---well   ????
Here it is anyway :-)

    I guess this is a premature post and evaluation as I really haven't been
able to ride it much as I have been sick and it has rained everyday!!! I
know it is my fault------new bike curse!!!

    So just about 50 miles of backroads is all I have done with it.
1.  It starts when cold very easily---I've had had some hard starting 350's
in the past when it was cold. Of course my leg (thumb) was wore out  :-)
This bike carburates perfectly--no hesitations or popping when you throttle
off.

2. Very smooth powerful motor especially at higher revs.

3. Great mirrors--with no vibration in them period!!!!!

4. The digital trip meter and speedometer is "The Cats". (Old Barnery Fife
quote). All the readouts are digital. Has several odometers including one
that is a total odo and not resettable. The others are resettable forward
and backward-----and you can also set one to countdown the miles as you
ride.

5. Stock exhaust is somewhat louder than a DR350. I have read that a lighter
muffler can't be bought and this one flows pretty good. So put a aftermarket
exhaust on  and about all you are doing is irritating the heck out of the
non-motorcycling public and possibly endangering your right to ride!!!!

6. Nice little rear fender toolbag-----rear rack available which comes with
a plastic toolbox which mounts opposite the muffler. I've ordered
that-----$130 retail.

7. No handguards at all-----I've ordered Acerbis rally guards with spoilers
for it.

8. 291 pounds dry-------so it's a little porky!!!

9.  2.6 gal. gas tank including reserve-----could have been at least a 1/2
gal. bigger!!!

10.  Clutch is slick----tranny is not----but it's new and I bet this will
get much better.

11.  Seat------well, old 350 guys who loved their seat may hate this one.
Looks like it came right off an RM. I'm Ok with it---but it is made for the
offroad guy who moves around a lot and probably stands up a lot--which is
the way I rode mostly. The wife gave it a great big thumbs down.
        If riding 2 up is your priority on this bike---I think you better
forget it. I don't think Corbin could do anything with the thin amount of
room there is. Her butt started hurting while she was putting her riding
gear on!!!! After 16 miles she said "take me home"-----well it had started
raining anyway. Was gonna put her on the Transalp but the rain kept coming
down!!!

12.  I love this bike!!!!!!! Some guys will put knobbies on and ride her
everywhere---which it is perfectly capable of doing. But if it is knarly and
nasty and very wet and slick rocky----I will leave it at home and ride my
TTR250 which I have made street legal. So the nasty's is not what I bought
the bike for. Wish I could afford to have the offroad model also for the
nasty's.

If I think of anything else-----I'll put up another post!!!

Mark Sampson


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DRZ400S
Date: 20 Mar 2000 14:04:54 -0700

We're an all DR site we switched over when the DRZ was announced...welcome
to the list...

Kurt

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
> Behalf Of Mark and Debi
> Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 1:23 PM
> To: DR Mailing List
> Subject: (dr) DRZ400S
>
>
>     I'm new to the list------is this a DR350 only site, or is DRZ400 posts
> OK??????
>
>     If they are----here is my first ride impression. If not---well   ????
> Here it is anyway :-)
>
>     I guess this is a premature post and evaluation as I really
> haven't been
> able to ride it much as I have been sick and it has rained everyday!!! I
> know it is my fault------new bike curse!!!
>
>     So just about 50 miles of backroads is all I have done with it.
> 1.  It starts when cold very easily---I've had had some hard
> starting 350's
> in the past when it was cold. Of course my leg (thumb) was wore out  :-)
> This bike carburates perfectly--no hesitations or popping when
> you throttle
> off.
>
> 2. Very smooth powerful motor especially at higher revs.
>
> 3. Great mirrors--with no vibration in them period!!!!!
>
> 4. The digital trip meter and speedometer is "The Cats". (Old Barnery Fife
> quote). All the readouts are digital. Has several odometers including one
> that is a total odo and not resettable. The others are resettable forward
> and backward-----and you can also set one to countdown the miles as you
> ride.
>
> 5. Stock exhaust is somewhat louder than a DR350. I have read
> that a lighter
> muffler can't be bought and this one flows pretty good. So put a
> aftermarket
> exhaust on  and about all you are doing is irritating the heck out of the
> non-motorcycling public and possibly endangering your right to ride!!!!
>
> 6. Nice little rear fender toolbag-----rear rack available which
> comes with
> a plastic toolbox which mounts opposite the muffler. I've ordered
> that-----$130 retail.
>
> 7. No handguards at all-----I've ordered Acerbis rally guards
> with spoilers
> for it.
>
> 8. 291 pounds dry-------so it's a little porky!!!
>
> 9.  2.6 gal. gas tank including reserve-----could have been at least a 1/2
> gal. bigger!!!
>
> 10.  Clutch is slick----tranny is not----but it's new and I bet this will
> get much better.
>
> 11.  Seat------well, old 350 guys who loved their seat may hate this one.
> Looks like it came right off an RM. I'm Ok with it---but it is
> made for the
> offroad guy who moves around a lot and probably stands up a lot--which is
> the way I rode mostly. The wife gave it a great big thumbs down.
>         If riding 2 up is your priority on this bike---I think you better
> forget it. I don't think Corbin could do anything with the thin amount of
> room there is. Her butt started hurting while she was putting her riding
> gear on!!!! After 16 miles she said "take me home"-----well it had started
> raining anyway. Was gonna put her on the Transalp but the rain kept coming
> down!!!
>
> 12.  I love this bike!!!!!!! Some guys will put knobbies on and ride her
> everywhere---which it is perfectly capable of doing. But if it is
> knarly and
> nasty and very wet and slick rocky----I will leave it at home and ride my
> TTR250 which I have made street legal. So the nasty's is not what I bought
> the bike for. Wish I could afford to have the offroad model also for the
> nasty's.
>
> If I think of anything else-----I'll put up another post!!!
>
> Mark Sampson
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Reina)
Subject: (dr) race- tech 7.6 KG spring
Date: 20 Mar 2000 21:57:14 -0500 (EST)

  Race-Tech has had my rear spring on back order for 1 1/2 months now.
Does any one out there know who has them in stock and where I can get
one?
Mike Reina
1993 DR350S


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Michael Reina)
Subject: (dr) Acerbis HP headlight
Date: 20 Mar 2000 22:06:56 -0500 (EST)

  Has anybody replaced there stock DRS headlight with one of these? Was
it a simple bolt on? Does it fit well in front of the stock instruments?
How is the quality of the beam of light for safe riding on the street at
night?
Mike Reina
1993 DR350S


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Acerbis HP headlight
Date: 20 Mar 2000 22:20:59 EST

no but I just bought a UFO head light and i'm just doing away with the
instrument
cluster  the aceribis looked like it would fit but I don't run mine at night
so I'm going
with a bulb instead of a halogen since my bike has become 99% off-road ;tags
are
just to get me too the riding spots and local cops are not that swift on the
regulations

I am going to use the kill switch as my ignition turn on
and still use my start button to start it. so if anyone has done it do you
remember
which wires to use and any other mods you had to do to the wiring harness

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Markus LIndrgen <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) New parts, more power?!
Date: 21 Mar 2000 15:56:52

Hi!

I need some new parts for my dr-s -92 (piston and rings one oversize, one
rocker arm) and from what I=B4ve read in magazines like Dirt rider etc. part=
s
seem to be much cheaper in the US than here in Sweden. Can someone please
tell me how much these parts cost and if there is a homepage where I can
order from?

Now when I=B4m about to bore the cylinder it would be great to gain some
power also. How much is a 440 kit in the US? I checked in my White Brothers
catalogue and the swedish prices are to high for a poor student like me.=20

I=B4m also wondering how high the compression are on these kits. I`ve alread=
y
raised the compression on my bike (about 10:1, stock 9,5:1) by milling the
head. I don=B4t think you can go higher than 10,5:1 having in mind that the
engine is air cooled.

I would appreciate some help with this!

Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden (The snow is melting, have to fix my bike-fast :-)



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New parts, more power?!
Date: 21 Mar 2000 07:10:55 -0800

Hi Markus, I would recommend the Thumper Racing 435 kit they just started
making a 1mm oversize that would give you 441 when you wearout the 435. This
kit sells for $250.00 plus the machining to install the sleeve which is
130.00 I have these in stock. check out my website below.I could also get
your rockerarm for you or repair yours how is your cam?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Markus LIndrgen
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 3:57 PM


Hi!

I need some new parts for my dr-s -92 (piston and rings one oversize, one
rocker arm) and from what I┤ve read in magazines like Dirt rider etc. parts
seem to be much cheaper in the US than here in Sweden. Can someone please
tell me how much these parts cost and if there is a homepage where I can
order from?

Now when I┤m about to bore the cylinder it would be great to gain some
power also. How much is a 440 kit in the US? I checked in my White Brothers
catalogue and the swedish prices are to high for a poor student like me.

I┤m also wondering how high the compression are on these kits. I`ve already
raised the compression on my bike (about 10:1, stock 9,5:1) by milling the
head. I don┤t think you can go higher than 10,5:1 having in mind that the
engine is air cooled.

I would appreciate some help with this!

Markus
Skellefteσ, Sweden (The snow is melting, have to fix my bike-fast :-)



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) race- tech 7.6 KG spring
Date: 21 Mar 2000 07:12:43 -0800

Hi Michael, yes I keep them in stock at all times.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Michael Reina
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 6:57 PM


  Race-Tech has had my rear spring on back order for 1 1/2 months now.
Does any one out there know who has them in stock and where I can get
one?
Mike Reina
1993 DR350S


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Shock Spring Rates
Date: 21 Mar 2000 09:30:50 -0600

    I have a couple of questions on the springs, I have know started
jumping on the DR350, and found that when landing the front springs are
really soft at first then hit really hard during landing.  I am guessing
that these are what the group is calling progessive springs rates. The
bike will primarly be used for 4-wheel drive trails in Colorado, so I am
trying to make it climb and handle a bit better.


Question #1 - What are the stock spring rates on the front/back?
Question #2 - I am 5'11" / 185lb what should the front/back shocks be if
I like to catch say no more than 3 to 5 feet of air?
Question #3 - Would the Koba Links help me any?
Question #4 - Would it be to my advantage to look for a used RM or RMX
model to trade shocks with? If so which models are the easiest.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock Spring Rates
Date: 21 Mar 2000 09:42:36 -0600

Hi Bryan, I'm in the middle of swapping forks from a 89' RMX 250 to my 99
DR350X.  I'm in the middle of replacing the seals and bushings in the forks
right now but I'll let you know how well it goes.  So far everything is
matching up perfectly.  The only thing I might need to do is get the dr stem
pressed in to rmx triple clamp but I'm not sure because I haven't got that
far yet.  I'll let you know how it goes when I get it done.

Chris
99 DR350X

> -----Original Message-----
> From:    Bryan Ply [SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Sent:    Tuesday, March 21, 2000 9:31 AM
> To:    dr_list
> Subject:    (dr) Shock Spring Rates
>
>     I have a couple of questions on the springs, I have know started
> jumping on the DR350, and found that when landing the front springs are
> really soft at first then hit really hard during landing.  I am guessing
> that these are what the group is calling progessive springs rates. The
> bike will primarly be used for 4-wheel drive trails in Colorado, so I am
> trying to make it climb and handle a bit better.
>
>
> Question #1 - What are the stock spring rates on the front/back?
> Question #2 - I am 5'11" / 185lb what should the front/back shocks be if
> I like to catch say no more than 3 to 5 feet of air?
> Question #3 - Would the Koba Links help me any?
> Question #4 - Would it be to my advantage to look for a used RM or RMX
> model to trade shocks with? If so which models are the easiest.
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock Spring Rates
Date: 21 Mar 2000 07:45:33 -0800

Hi Bryan, for your front I would recommend the race tech triple rate spring
kit with this kit you have a choice of 40kg/mm or 43kg/mm or 46 kg/mm at 185
lbs I would recommend the 43kg/mm option the rear with minimal jumping
heights I would recommend the Kouba link and 7.6kg.mm spring. I stock these
Items.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 7:31 AM


    I have a couple of questions on the springs, I have know started
jumping on the DR350, and found that when landing the front springs are
really soft at first then hit really hard during landing.  I am guessing
that these are what the group is calling progessive springs rates. The
bike will primarly be used for 4-wheel drive trails in Colorado, so I am
trying to make it climb and handle a bit better.


Question #1 - What are the stock spring rates on the front/back?
Question #2 - I am 5'11" / 185lb what should the front/back shocks be if
I like to catch say no more than 3 to 5 feet of air?
Question #3 - Would the Koba Links help me any?
Question #4 - Would it be to my advantage to look for a used RM or RMX
model to trade shocks with? If so which models are the easiest.

-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Jⁿrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 21 Mar 2000 17:32:09 +0100

At 15:46 17.03.00 -0500, Mark Sims wrote:

>My friend has a K&N air filter - but he can't get it installed.
>I've heard alot about this on the list.  Maybe others can comment.
>
>He finally gave up and is using an Air Twin.


I've installed a K&N filter a few month ago - no problem (DR 350 SE ,
1996). Is there a difference
between German and US aixboxes?

JS


  =
|Juergen Seeger | Tel.:  [phone]  |    EMail:  [e-mail]  |
|iX - Magazin fuer professionelle Informationstechnik
|D-30625 Hannover, Helstorfer Str. 7      |    Fax: [phone]   |



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Running rich?
Date: 21 Mar 2000 09:55:15 -0800

Hi Jurgen,  no difference, it just takes some manual dexterity to locate the
threaded nut fixed inside of the airbox with the long stud that holds the
element in place that you cannot see with the filter in place.  I have found
that if you tighten down the stud excessivly the element  wants to bell out
where it sits against the metal surface of the front of the airbox possibly
getting out of position and leaking, sealing grease makes it even worse.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jⁿrgen Seeger
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 8:32 AM
Cc: [e-mail]


At 15:46 17.03.00 -0500, Mark Sims wrote:

>My friend has a K&N air filter - but he can't get it installed.
>I've heard alot about this on the list.  Maybe others can comment.
>
>He finally gave up and is using an Air Twin.


I've installed a K&N filter a few month ago - no problem (DR 350 SE ,
1996). Is there a difference
between German and US aixboxes?

JS


  =
|Juergen Seeger | Tel.:  [phone]  |    EMail:  [e-mail]  |
|iX - Magazin fuer professionelle Informationstechnik
|D-30625 Hannover, Helstorfer Str. 7      |    Fax: [phone]   |



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 21 Mar 2000 11:41:07 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF932A.589718B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Everyone,

My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very high RPMs.  I am running with a =
stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX needle in 4th position), a FMF =
PowerCore IV pipe and a modified airbox. Just for grins, I went to a 145 =
main and it got worse.  Does this sound like an carb or electrical =
problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  BTW: I do have a new =
plug and UNI airfilter.

Bob

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension, =
Applied
Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, =
Scotts and other Thumper
Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and =
swing
arm bracing.

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF932A.589718B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very =
high=20
RPMs.  I am running with a stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX =
needle=20
in 4th position), a FMF PowerCore IV pipe and a modified =
airbox. Just for=20
grins, I went to a 145 main and it got worse.  Does this sound like =
an carb=20
or electrical problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  =
BTW: I do=20
have a new plug and UNI airfilter.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox =
mods,=20
Fineline Suspension, Applied<BR>Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy =
Button Bars,=20
JX Needle/Spring, Scotts and other Thumper<BR>Racing products too =
numerous to=20
mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing<BR>arm =
bracing.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four =
Strokes" Rule=20
Class</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BF932A.589718B0--


-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 21 Mar 2000 11:38:36 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF9329.FEF255E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Bob, sounds like the 140 is too rich go to a 137.5 main and that should
fix it.  Let me know how you make out.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/


-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bob Ralston
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 11:41 AM


Hi Everyone,

My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very high RPMs.  I am running with a
stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX needle in 4th position), a FMF
PowerCore IV pipe and a modified airbox. Just for grins, I went to a 145
main and it got worse.  Does this sound like an carb or electrical problem?
Other than this miss the bike runs great.  BTW: I do have a new plug and UNI
airfilter.

Bob

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension, Applied
Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Scotts
and other Thumper
Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing
arm bracing.

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF9329.FEF255E0
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D160263619-21032000>Hi=20
Bob, sounds like the 140 is too rich go to a 137.5 main and that should =
fix=20
it.  Let me know how you make out.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A =
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[e-mail]=20
[mailto:[e-mail]]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Bob=20
Ralston<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 21, 2000 11:41 AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
DR350<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) 93 DR350S Engine =
Missing<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very =
high=20
RPMs.  I am running with a stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX =
needle=20
in 4th position), a FMF PowerCore IV pipe and a modified =
airbox. Just for=20
grins, I went to a 145 main and it got worse.  Does this sound like =
an carb=20
or electrical problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  =
BTW: I do=20
have a new plug and UNI airfilter.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox =
mods,=20
Fineline Suspension, Applied<BR>Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy =
Button Bars,=20
JX Needle/Spring, Scotts and other Thumper<BR>Racing products too =
numerous to=20
mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing<BR>arm =
bracing.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four =
Strokes" Rule=20
Class</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF9329.FEF255E0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 21 Mar 2000 15:38:01 -0600

Not trying to be funny or obvious, but could it be the rev limiter?

JB

>>> "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]> 03/21/00 01:41PM >>>
Hi Everyone,

My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very high RPMs.  I am running with a
stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX needle in 4th position), a FMF
PowerCore IV pipe and a modified airbox. Just for grins, I went to a 145
main and it got worse.  Does this sound like an carb or electrical
problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  BTW: I do have a new
plug and UNI airfilter.

Bob

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension,
Applied
Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring,
Scotts and other Thumper
Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and
swing
arm bracing.

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

-
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 21 Mar 2000 12:53:02 -0800

I did not know that this bike has a Rev limiter.  Could be since it was
really singing!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 1:38 PM


> Not trying to be funny or obvious, but could it be the rev limiter?
>
> JB
>
> >>> "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]> 03/21/00 01:41PM >>>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very high RPMs.  I am running with a
> stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX needle in 4th position), a FMF
> PowerCore IV pipe and a modified airbox. Just for grins, I went to a 145
> main and it got worse.  Does this sound like an carb or electrical
> problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  BTW: I do have a new
> plug and UNI airfilter.
>
> Bob
>
> 93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension,
> Applied
> Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring,
> Scotts and other Thumper
> Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and
> swing
> arm bracing.
>
> District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeff Corsaro <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DRZ400S
Date: 21 Mar 2000 14:47:41 -0800

Hi all,

I had the chance to test ride the DR400Z last week.  What you have to say is
almost exactly what my I though of it.
    The digital speedo/trip-odometer was neat, I love gizmos myself.  I
might look up the price of the unit, if it is reasonably priced (I doubt it,
but Suzuki parts prices are usually priced below Honda and Yamaha in most
cases).  I would like try to retrofit it on other bikes.
    The motor was the best part of the bike, ran very smooth and pulled like
a KTM LC4 620. The transmission was a little notchy on shifts, I think it
should free up once the shift drum and forks wear a little. The seat
definitely looked like a 125cc moto cross seat, good for looks/style and
stand-up off road riding, not good for a dual-sport bike.  I am sure the
after market seat manufactures will make a plush dual-sport seat, but I
guaranty it will look ugly on the narrow DRZ.  I was a little disappointed
with the weight. It definitely is heavier than my heavy-weight 260 lb
electric start Yamaha TTR250 trail bike and felt a little heavier than a
DR350SE, but than again it is a 400 and not a light weight air-cooled 250 or
moto-x bike.
    I talked to Baja Designs, they have a dual-sport kit in the works for
the dirt only models. The connector on the alternator is a proprietary
design that is only used by Suzuki, so they have to have it tooled.  I am
sure it will work good, because all the DRZs have high output three-phase
alternators.
    2.6 gallons sounds reasonable for a stock tank.  An after market tank
will have to grow fat to accommodate more fuel, because you have the
radiators tucked in front of it.
    Any ways if I had money to burn right now on a dirt bike now, I would
buy the DRZ over a Yamaha WR400, or a Honda XR400.

Jeff Corsaro in San Diego



> From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
> Reply-To: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
> Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 14:23:28 -0600
> To: "DR Mailing List" <[e-mail]>
> Subject: (dr) DRZ400S
>
> I'm new to the list------is this a DR350 only site, or is DRZ400 posts
> OK??????
>
> If they are----here is my first ride impression. If not---well   ????
> Here it is anyway :-)
>
> I guess this is a premature post and evaluation as I really haven't been
> able to ride it much as I have been sick and it has rained everyday!!! I
> know it is my fault------new bike curse!!!
>
> So just about 50 miles of backroads is all I have done with it.
> 1.  It starts when cold very easily---I've had had some hard starting 350's
> in the past when it was cold. Of course my leg (thumb) was wore out  :-)
> This bike carburates perfectly--no hesitations or popping when you throttle
> off.
>
> 2. Very smooth powerful motor especially at higher revs.
>
> 3. Great mirrors--with no vibration in them period!!!!!
>
> 4. The digital trip meter and speedometer is "The Cats". (Old Barnery Fife
> quote). All the readouts are digital. Has several odometers including one
> that is a total odo and not resettable. The others are resettable forward
> and backward-----and you can also set one to countdown the miles as you
> ride.
>
> 5. Stock exhaust is somewhat louder than a DR350. I have read that a lighter
> muffler can't be bought and this one flows pretty good. So put a aftermarket
> exhaust on  and about all you are doing is irritating the heck out of the
> non-motorcycling public and possibly endangering your right to ride!!!!
>
> 6. Nice little rear fender toolbag-----rear rack available which comes with
> a plastic toolbox which mounts opposite the muffler. I've ordered
> that-----$130 retail.
>
> 7. No handguards at all-----I've ordered Acerbis rally guards with spoilers
> for it.
>
> 8. 291 pounds dry-------so it's a little porky!!!
>
> 9.  2.6 gal. gas tank including reserve-----could have been at least a 1/2
> gal. bigger!!!
>
> 10.  Clutch is slick----tranny is not----but it's new and I bet this will
> get much better.
>
> 11.  Seat------well, old 350 guys who loved their seat may hate this one.
> Looks like it came right off an RM. I'm Ok with it---but it is made for the
> offroad guy who moves around a lot and probably stands up a lot--which is
> the way I rode mostly. The wife gave it a great big thumbs down.
> If riding 2 up is your priority on this bike---I think you better
> forget it. I don't think Corbin could do anything with the thin amount of
> room there is. Her butt started hurting while she was putting her riding
> gear on!!!! After 16 miles she said "take me home"-----well it had started
> raining anyway. Was gonna put her on the Transalp but the rain kept coming
> down!!!
>
> 12.  I love this bike!!!!!!! Some guys will put knobbies on and ride her
> everywhere---which it is perfectly capable of doing. But if it is knarly and
> nasty and very wet and slick rocky----I will leave it at home and ride my
> TTR250 which I have made street legal. So the nasty's is not what I bought
> the bike for. Wish I could afford to have the offroad model also for the
> nasty's.
>
> If I think of anything else-----I'll put up another post!!!
>
> Mark Sampson
>
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) DRZ400S
Date: 21 Mar 2000 19:43:49 EST

Awesome!  Wish I had one...  There were quite a few at the RideForKids
dualsport in San Bernadino Calif. this weekend...

Guy

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From: John-Boy Cadwell <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Parting Out 89 RM250K
Date: 21 Mar 2000 17:15:58 -0800

Parting out 1989 RM250K.  Let me know if you guys would like anything.
The tank, seat, rear fender, and carb are sold.  Thanks a bunch, John
Cadwell

[phone]


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From: mikko vimpari <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 350 rear brake pads etc.
Date: 21 Mar 2000 20:35:16 +0200

Hi

I'd just like to say a few comments.Don't do like I did ,
using hard compound(sintered metal) rear brake pads.
I  used a one pair of  Ferodo sintered pads, and now
my DR's rear brake disc has almost worn out.
I prefer a low front fender on my DR. The cylinder gets
better cooling and the bike is more stable on the high
speed rides especially when it's windy. On the negative side
low fender makes my bike look more like super motard bike
than enduro.I assume in the muddy conditions it wouldn't
be practical.But I ride mainly gravel roads and dry forest
trails, there I have no problem even with branches.

Thanks for the patience
Mikko Vimpari,Finland
'97 350SE





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From: "Swamprider" <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr) More DRZ400S
Date: 22 Mar 2000 09:40:40 -0500

Okay,

I saw a lot of DRZs at Daytona, and even one of my riding buddies went out
and bought one. They may be a great bike but...........Couldn't someone at
Suzuki styled it a little different? Heck, It looks like a 1989 RMX250!

Swampy


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From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Scratches in Plastic
Date: 22 Mar 2000 15:35:40 -0000

Hi all,

has anyone found a good way of smoothing scratches in plastic fenders or
side panels? (without painting).

You can get rid of the scratch with fine sand paper, but that leaves a matt
finish that needs polishing somehow.

Any ideas would be appreciated !

Makes a change from tire questions doesn't it ?

Thanks,
Steve

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Re: (klr650) Scratches in Plastic
Date: 22 Mar 2000 08:39:51 -0800


----- Original Message -----
<[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:35 AM


> Hi all,
>
> has anyone found a good way of smoothing scratches in plastic fenders or
> side panels? (without painting).


Try a product called Plastic Renew.  It works great.

Fred


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 22 Mar 2000 09:44:03 -0800 (PST)

I think your problem is not the rev limiter but as
Jesse said your main jet is to big.Drop one jet size
and I think your problem will be gone.To big a main
jet and your motor will stutter up top and seem fine
down low.When you nail it look for any black smoke at
all coming out of the muffler a sure sign.

--- Bob Ralston <[e-mail]> wrote:
> I did not know that this bike has a Rev limiter.
> Could be since it was
> really singing!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
> To: <[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 1:38 PM
> Subject: Re: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
>
>
> > Not trying to be funny or obvious, but could it be
> the rev limiter?
> >


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 22 Mar 2000 10:28:22 -0800

John,

Thanks.  I checked last night and I do have a 137.5 main in the tool box. I
will try it this week-end and
see if it does the trick.

Bob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 9:44 AM


> I think your problem is not the rev limiter but as
> Jesse said your main jet is to big.Drop one jet size
> and I think your problem will be gone.To big a main
> jet and your motor will stutter up top and seem fine
> down low.When you nail it look for any black smoke at
> all coming out of the muffler a sure sign.
>



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 23 Mar 2000 00:37:39 +0100

Hi,

just to make it sure: a 96' DR 350 SE has not throttle cables with
teflon
(I hope, it's named teflon in English too), thus I can lubricate it
with oil - right?

J=FCrgen



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 22 Mar 2000 20:47:58 EST

you probably don't want to use oil as it attracts dirt .use a cable luber and
cable lube
but the cables are 4 years old so just replace them with new ones . Motion
Pro has a set you can get from the dealer for $28.00 or Thumper Racing for
$32.00

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Andrew Spooner" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR 350 rear shock
Date: 23 Mar 2000 08:23:27 -0000

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BF94A1.10966340
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've got a 93 DR350S and have just installed the Kouba links from Norm, =
but when going to upgrade the rear spring I found the shock was on its =
last legs.=20
What should I do, should I recondition the shock? how hard is this ? Or =
should I go for a new one, official or other ? Can I still use my new =
uprated spring ?

Thanks, Andrew=20

Epsom, UK=20


------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BF94A1.10966340
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3013.2600" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV align=3Dleft TYPE=3D"CITE">
<STYLE></STYLE>
<FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've got a 93 DR350S and have just =
installed=20
the Kouba links from Norm, but when going to upgrade the rear spring I =
found the=20
shock was on its last legs. </FONT></DIV>
<P align=3Dleft TYPE=3D"CITE"><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What =
should I do, should=20
I recondition the shock? how hard is this ? Or should I go for a =
new one,=20
official or other ? Can I still use my new uprated spring =
?</FONT></P>
<P align=3Dleft TYPE=3D"CITE"><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Thanks, Andrew=20
</FONT></P>
<P align=3Dleft TYPE=3D"CITE"><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Epsom, UK=20
</FONT></P></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BF94A1.10966340--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 23 Mar 2000 11:52:39 +0100

At 20:47 22.03.00 -0500, [e-mail] wrote:
>you probably don't want to use oil as it attracts dirt .use a cable luber=
 and
>cable lube
>but the cables are 4 years old so just replace them with new ones . Motion
>Pro has a set you can get from the dealer for $28.00 or Thumper Racing for
>$32.00

Sh... - just bought new cables from the Suzuki dealer, costs 150 DM (around=
=20
75 US-$).
Would be cheaper to pay the oversea transportation fee and buy one from=20
Thumber Racing.

But: to be honest, I''ve never heart about "cable lube". Can you give me a=
=20
hint?

J=FCrgen




  =3D
|Juergen Seeger | Tel.:  [phone]  |    EMail:  [e-mail]  |
|iX - Magazin fuer professionelle Informationstechnik
|D-30625 Hannover, Helstorfer Str. 7      |    Fax: [phone]   |



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Tire Sizes
Date: 23 Mar 2000 09:00:39 EST

I ride a 1997 DR350SE Stock (for now) what are the biggest size  tires I can
put on front and rear.  Does anyone have a brand preference for off road.
Thank you Jack

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Tire Sizes
Date: 23 Mar 2000 14:15:24 -0000

Hey Jack, I think you are pretty much stuck with the stock sizes unless you
are willing to trim a bigger 5 inch rear. Cant see the point myself.

If you ride on stony, rocky, dryish stuff why not pop a cheap Cheng Shin or
Kenda on the back and let rip !

If you dont mind spending more its not going to make much difference what
you get, unless you are motorcrossing......mmmm, nasty thought.

Steve

> ----------
> From:     [e-mail][SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     23 March 2000 14:00
> To:     [e-mail]
> Subject:     (dr) Tire Sizes
>
> I ride a 1997 DR350SE Stock (for now) what are the biggest size  tires I
> can
> put on front and rear.  Does anyone have a brand preference for off road.
>
> Thank you Jack
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) RE: Scratches in Plastic
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:02:41 -0000

Thanks for all the replies on this.

Looks like the way to go is to find some kind of abrasive polish for
metal/glass/plastic after rubbing with wet, very fine sand paper. And lots
of time of course. I'm in the UK and unfortunately don't recognise the
products mentioned but there must be equivalents.

I already use plastic restoring stuff like you would use on a car interior,
plastic bumpers etc, which helps, but tends to dry out too quick or get
washed off, so not perfect.

Cheers

Steve
> >
> > has anyone found a good way of smoothing scratches in plastic fenders or
> > side panels? (without painting).
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Oil and stuff
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:32:38 -0000

Perry

nice email, made me smile.
I always worry that I come across the wrong way in emails. In case anyone
wonders, I dont take many things seriously, apart from looking after my
family. Bikes are just for play aren't they ???

Oils - my air cooled (not neglected) DR kills normal oil in less than a few
hundred miles
(gear change notchy). Semi synthetic not much better. Fully synthetic -
aaaah ! - much better! No probs at 900 miles when I change it anyway.

Seems to be clutch drag related - with normal oil its difficult to select
neutral and you can feel it dragging. My water cooled KLX runs cooler and is
always smooth, as I'm sure the DRZ will be (and hence, perhaps doesnt need
synthetic oil so much)

BUT - you have to consider what happens to the clutch particles as it wears,
floating around in your oil. Especially off road. Hence you still need to
run short oil change intervals even if your sexy synthetic, gold plated
stuff still has a high shear strength.

Also, be wary of anything above 10W - oil ways in a motorcycle are TINY.
Unless its very hot where you are.
Chucking it down here today. We had a bit of a scare in the UK recently with
3-4 weeks fine weather - what does one talk about instead dear boy ??

Steve :-)

> ----------
> From:     Perry Gray[SMTP:[e-mail]]
> Reply To:     [e-mail]
> Sent:     23 March 2000 13:40
> To:     [e-mail]
> Subject:     [DRZ400] Dealers with DRZ's
>
> From: "Perry Gray" <[e-mail]>
>
> Here is an address for traderonline.com they have some dealers
> advertising DRZ's in the $5k range. You can also advertise that old
> neglected 2 smoke to make room for a DRZ. Or that old neglected DR350
> thats never seen a drop of sythetic, $10 a quartz, better than sex
> motoroil. Maybe they will make a mametic motoroil that will mold
> itself into the shape a motorcycle kinda like that guy in terminator
> two, then you can spend all your money on motoroil instead of just
> half of it.
>
> http://www.traderonline.com/cgi-bin/cycle/ads3/sea
> rch/cSearch.html?iteration=0&beginYear=&endYear=&l
> owPrice=&hiPrice=&keyword=drz400&areacode1=&areaco
> de2=&areacode3=&state=®ion=0
>
> Perry
>
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR 350 rear shock
Date: 23 Mar 2000 07:33:27 -0800


> I've got a 93 DR350S and have just installed the Kouba links from
> Norm, but when going to upgrade the rear spring I found the shock was
> on its last legs.
>
> What should I do, should I recondition the shock? how hard is this
> ? Or should I go for a new one, official or other ? Can I still use my
> new uprated spring ?

I'd rebuild.  It's not that hard.

Most likely you just need a fluid change, plus a new seal if the old
one's leaking.  Total cost there:  Perhaps US$50-100 (not sure of the
seal cost).

And while you're at it, upgrade to GoldValves, creating a custom-valved
shock for you and your riding style.  Perhaps another US$150.

I have a write-up on how to do this -- let me know if you'd like a copy.

Bryan
'96 DR441

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 11:12:55 EST

I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier spring.  Suzuki
doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of the
stocker to compare.  What am I to do?

I weigh about 250 ready to ride.

Wayne Hinman

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 09:24:40 -0700

> I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier
> spring.  Suzuki
> doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of the
> stocker to compare.  What am I to do?
>
> I weigh about 250 ready to ride.
>
> Wayne Hinman

you can become Sherlock Holmes for us. Race Tech doesn't have one either. I
don't know about Eibach. Here are the dimensions of the stocker:

Rated at 6.5 kg

Outside diameter=86mm
Inside diameter=62.57 mm
Coil diameter=11.9 mm
Length = 255 mm.

Please let me know what you find out...Jesse can you help?

Kurt


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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Oil and stuff
Date: 23 Mar 2000 10:09:30 -0600




While on the subject of oil. Here's a web site you might be interested if you
want to know more about it.


http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/engineoil_bible.html

I run Castrol GTX 10W-30 in my '95 DR350. I ride strictly dirt and I push it
HARD.
I've never had any real problems other than a few drops being burned after a
long weekend. I change
my oil after every 20 hours or so depending on how hard I actually ride. I live
in Texas where the weather
changes almost day to day. We've had some really nice weather lately (70's and
80's F) so I might have to
reconsider the viscosity when it gets warmer (100's F).

Just my 2 cents
Ric


Perry

nice email, made me smile.
I always worry that I come across the wrong way in emails. In case anyone
wonders, I dont take many things seriously, apart from looking after my
family. Bikes are just for play aren't they ???

Oils - my air cooled (not neglected) DR kills normal oil in less than a few
hundred miles
(gear change notchy). Semi synthetic not much better. Fully synthetic -
aaaah ! - much better! No probs at 900 miles when I change it anyway.

Seems to be clutch drag related - with normal oil its difficult to select
neutral and you can feel it dragging. My water cooled KLX runs cooler and is
always smooth, as I'm sure the DRZ will be (and hence, perhaps doesnt need
synthetic oil so much)

BUT - you have to consider what happens to the clutch particles as it wears,
floating around in your oil. Especially off road. Hence you still need to
run short oil change intervals even if your sexy synthetic, gold plated
stuff still has a high shear strength.

Also, be wary of anything above 10W - oil ways in a motorcycle are TINY.
Unless its very hot where you are.
Chucking it down here today. We had a bit of a scare in the UK recently with
3-4 weeks fine weather - what does one talk about instead dear boy ??

Steve :-)


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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) DR Headlight..
Date: 23 Mar 2000 12:16:51 EST

I need a headlight.. preferably the rubber strap on dirt version for a 90 DR
street... It had a large Baja style dual headlamps (Hellas) setup that's not
what I need.. but is awesome for night riding.. trade anybody???

Guy

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From: "Edward Marlowe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) RE: Scratches in Plastic
Date: 23 Mar 2000 20:08:32 -0000

Plastic Renew is available in the UK !!!!  from Off Road Only tel. [phone]
811 it costs ú15.22  +  ú4.00 p+p
I have just ordered some to take out this weekends marks on my newly aquired
DRZ400E (Absolutely fantastic) I also now have for sale my 97 R DR350SEW
3000 miles and under warranty ú2395 ono. anybody interested. Bye for now
Edward Marlowe
----- Original Message -----
<[e-mail]>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 3:02 PM


> Thanks for all the replies on this.
>
> Looks like the way to go is to find some kind of abrasive polish for
> metal/glass/plastic after rubbing with wet, very fine sand paper. And lots
> of time of course. I'm in the UK and unfortunately don't recognise the
> products mentioned but there must be equivalents.
>
> I already use plastic restoring stuff like you would use on a car
interior,
> plastic bumpers etc, which helps, but tends to dry out too quick or get
> washed off, so not perfect.
>
> Cheers
>
> Steve
> > >
> > > has anyone found a good way of smoothing scratches in plastic fenders
or
> > > side panels? (without painting).
> >
> >
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 16:25:46 -0600

Wayne,
             I think you are stuck if you keep the stock shock. Eibach,
Race Tech and Progressive do not make a spring for the stock shock, I
checked. I am about 200lbs. and have the adjustment ring pretty much at
the end of the threads to get the sag right. It is a bit soft too. I
need to check to see if Progressive still makes the 415 shock for the
DR650SE. I read an early test on the bike and that was what they put
on...sounded good...fully adjustable, remote reservior, etc. all for
about $400. Their web page only lists the 420 shock, whick is not fully
adjustable, but about the same price. Please let us know what you find
for springs, because I know Race Tech does make a cartridge or Gold
Valve for the rear shock. I'd like to upgrade too. I think the stock
suspension is made for about a 160lb rider.... Good Luck!!

JB

>>> <[e-mail]> 03/23/00 10:12AM >>>
I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier spring.
Suzuki
doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of the

stocker to compare.  What am I to do?

I weigh about 250 ready to ride.

Wayne Hinman

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:00:20 -0700

>              I think you are stuck if you keep the stock shock. Eibach,
> Race Tech and Progressive do not make a spring for the stock shock, I
> checked. I am about 200lbs. and have the adjustment ring pretty much at
> the end of the threads to get the sag right. It is a bit soft too. I
> need to check to see if Progressive still makes the 415 shock for the
> DR650SE. I read an early test on the bike and that was what they put
> on...sounded good...fully adjustable, remote reservior, etc. all for
> about $400. Their web page only lists the 420 shock, whick is not fully
> adjustable, but about the same price. Please let us know what you find
> for springs, because I know Race Tech does make a cartridge or Gold
> Valve for the rear shock. I'd like to upgrade too. I think the stock
> suspension is made for about a 160lb rider.... Good Luck!!
>
> JB


I was more than a little upset to find out that Race Tech didn't have a
spring. I sent my suspension to Precicison Concepts after talking with Bob
Bell. He said that they would put a heavier spring on it. I received the
stuff back with the Gold Valve and anodizing complete with the stock spring.
Finally found out that they didn't have another spring. Had I known I might
have just opted for the Progressive or even an Ohlins...but I've yet to try
it out and that will be the real indicator. One thing I did find out is that
the recommended sag setting (the starting point) is way down the shock body
so it could be that looks are deceiving. I think that is because they had to
have the extra threads available for the lowering option.

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail] (Rainer Knape)
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 23:43:42 +0100

Wayne,

White Power has heavier springs for the DR650, also the german company
TechnoFlex.
I don't know wich rate you need, but you might try the RaceTech web-site.
They offer something like a "custum suspension setting" (don't remenber
exactly) and I believe it calculates the right spring rate.

Rainer

________________________
[e-mail] schrieb:

> I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier spring.  Suzuki
> doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of the
> stocker to compare.  What am I to do?
>
> I weigh about 250 ready to ride.
>
> Wayne Hinman


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:20:12 -0800

Jan Bradley wrote:
>              I think you are stuck if you keep the stock shock. Eibach,
> Race Tech and Progressive do not make a spring for the stock shock, I
> checked. I am about 200lbs. and have the adjustment ring pretty much at
> the end of the threads to get the sag right. It is a bit soft too. I
> need to check to see if Progressive still makes the 415 shock for the
> DR650SE.

HI all,
    I have the Progressive application file in my computer, and it does not
show ANY rear spring for the DR650. I'll check to see if there is an
update, but I doubt that would be something they would add. A call to
them may help, they are pretty good at coming up with something that
will work.
Wayne
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 23 Mar 2000 18:39:04 EST

In a message dated 3/23/2000 10:14:16 AM Central Standard Time,
[e-mail] writes:

<< I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier spring.
Suzuki
 doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of the
 stocker to compare.  What am I to do?

 I weigh about 250 ready to ride.

 Wayne Hinman
  >>
 Wayne, I put an 8.1 kg Eibach spring on my 96 DR350. I dont know if the 650
has the same shock or not but I got mine from White Bros. in California. The
spring helped a lot but the shock still bottoms easily. I would recommend the
spring and a gold valve.

Mike A,
Nashville

PS I am also in your weight class.

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR 350 rear shock
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:45:51 -0800 (PST)

I have a buddy getting his rear shock redone.Talk to
Jesse over at Keintech eng. he will answer any
questions.His e-mail is [e-mail] or his phone is
541-472-0835 he will shed light on any part of your
bike.

--- Andrew Spooner <[e-mail]> wrote:
> I've got a 93 DR350S and have just installed the
> Kouba links from Norm, but when going to upgrade the
> rear spring I found the shock was on its last legs.
> What should I do, should I recondition the shock?
> how hard is this ? Or should I go for a new one,
> official or other ? Can I still use my new uprated
> spring ?
>
> Thanks, Andrew
>
> Epsom, UK
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Tire Sizes
Date: 23 Mar 2000 15:51:48 -0800 (PST)

  I have an SE as well and use the Pirelli MT21 in the
rear and a Dunlop K139 in the front.This is in my
opinion only the most aggressive D.O.T. legal set up
you can buy.Stick with the 120 width in the rear.You
can fit the 130 but I do not think a stock motor needs
a bigger than 120 to provide good traction.The Pirelli
will also give you good wear this is my set up now and
future.Any other sugg. guys?

--- [e-mail] wrote:
> I ride a 1997 DR350SE Stock (for now) what are the
> biggest size  tires I can
> put on front and rear.  Does anyone have a brand
> preference for off road.
> Thank you Jack
>
> -


__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ and KLR stuff
Date: 23 Mar 2000 21:24:43 -0700





> To all of you whom contacted us about the DRZ400 lowering links:
> We recieved them today and will be shipping them out to everyone that we
> notified.  If anyone had a set on order and did not get the E-Mail
> confirmation, please except our appology and send us a nice letter with a
> reminder attached. For those of you who did not order but wanted info.,
> please E-Mail us, as we now can answer more of your questions and have
> the final specs. Will get our web-page updated after we recieve some
> feedback.

> Just found out yesterday the long awaited KLR650 fork braces will be
> available soon
> from Tim Bernard at:  http://www.happy-trail.com/
>
> Norm
>
> Suzuki DR Suspensions
> DR.  DR
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299






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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 24 Mar 2000 10:53:45 +0100

Forget my question about cable lubrication -
the throttcle cables of the DR 350 SE come with Teflon inside,
and, furthermore, I found a special cable spray in my garage.
Perhaps the start of Alzheimer ...

J=FCrgen


  =3D
|Juergen Seeger | Tel.:  [phone]  |    EMail:  [e-mail]  |
|iX - Magazin fuer professionelle Informationstechnik
|D-30625 Hannover, Helstorfer Str. 7      |    Fax: [phone]   |


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 24 Mar 2000 10:53:45 +0100

Forget my question about cable lubrication -
the throttcle cables of the DR 350 SE come with Teflon inside,
and, furthermore, I found a special cable spray in my garage.
Perhaps the start of Alzheimer ...

J=FCrgen


  =3D
|Juergen Seeger | Tel.:  [phone]  |    EMail:  [e-mail]  |
|iX - Magazin fuer professionelle Informationstechnik
|D-30625 Hannover, Helstorfer Str. 7      |    Fax: [phone]   |


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike Harpster" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Hard Starting
Date: 24 Mar 2000 07:21:15 -0500

I recently put a Mikuni pumper carb on my DR350 and have noticed it is a
lot harder to start when cold. With the CV carb all I had to do was pull
the choke and hit the button and it would start within 2-3 seconds. When
I try that now it probably takes 10-15 seconds with some stalling and
restarting. Anyone have any suggestions?

Mike
98 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Hoge, Neill" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Hard Starting
Date: 24 Mar 2000 07:44:23 -0500

I too am looking for advice on a startup problem. I just had a Baja Designs
light kit installed by someone. When the bike was delivered, it started
great -- 2-3 kicks, but when riding, I noticed  some hesitation at higher
revs, and it sounded differently. Got on the bike yesterday and it would not
start for nothing. Smelled gas. It was on the verge of starting, a few times
it started for a few seconds, then died. It backfired a few times, when I
kicked it. Tried all choke variations. The mechanic said he did some
adjustments to valves and carb...Any suggestions most appreciated.!

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 07:21


I recently put a Mikuni pumper carb on my DR350 and have noticed it is a
lot harder to start when cold. With the CV carb all I had to do was pull
the choke and hit the button and it would start within 2-3 seconds. When
I try that now it probably takes 10-15 seconds with some stalling and
restarting. Anyone have any suggestions?

Mike
98 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 09:14:26 -0600

List,

    I am in need of a wiring schematic for the DR350, I want to be able to
patch into the present wiring to run a cable for the GPS, It appears
that the headlight recieves different voltages, or amps through the
throttle range.  The specs on the GPS are 12 to 14V. I will need
something to stablize the voltage.  Is there anyone out there that has
done this and know exactly what electronic componets are needed.  That
would sure solve alot of the problems.

Thanks
Bryan

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Rear shocks available by PS
Date: 24 Mar 2000 09:24:17 -0600



Progressive Suspensions has shocks and springs available for the DR line.
Go to:
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/applications/

Ric
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Hard Starting
Date: 24 Mar 2000 07:40:19 -0800

Hi Mike, sounds like the idle circuit is a little lean, I would recommend
opening the fuel screw a little maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn this should help.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike Harpster
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 4:21 AM


I recently put a Mikuni pumper carb on my DR350 and have noticed it is a
lot harder to start when cold. With the CV carb all I had to do was pull
the choke and hit the button and it would start within 2-3 seconds. When
I try that now it probably takes 10-15 seconds with some stalling and
restarting. Anyone have any suggestions?

Mike
98 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Hard Starting
Date: 24 Mar 2000 07:46:57 -0800

Hi Hoge,  sounds like you should revisit the valves and find out what
changes were made to the carb,  keep me posted. I your DR dirt or dual
purpose? and what year?

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Hoge, Neill
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 4:44 AM


I too am looking for advice on a startup problem. I just had a Baja Designs
light kit installed by someone. When the bike was delivered, it started
great -- 2-3 kicks, but when riding, I noticed  some hesitation at higher
revs, and it sounded differently. Got on the bike yesterday and it would not
start for nothing. Smelled gas. It was on the verge of starting, a few times
it started for a few seconds, then died. It backfired a few times, when I
kicked it. Tried all choke variations. The mechanic said he did some
adjustments to valves and carb...Any suggestions most appreciated.!

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 07:21


I recently put a Mikuni pumper carb on my DR350 and have noticed it is a
lot harder to start when cold. With the CV carb all I had to do was pull
the choke and hit the button and it would start within 2-3 seconds. When
I try that now it probably takes 10-15 seconds with some stalling and
restarting. Anyone have any suggestions?

Mike
98 DR350SE


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 09:40:00 -0800

Hello Brian,

If you have a DR350S, then wire it direct to the battery.  You want the GPS
to remain ON when you turn the key off.  If you have a 350X (ie no battery)
your headlight/taillight voltage is "AC" and will not run the GPS.  To get
"DC" you will need a rectifier and a small battery.

Very possible to do it yourself, but if you want to take the easy way out,
http://www.bajadesigns.com has everything you need including a prefab
wiring harness and instructions.

Tom

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


>    I am in need of a wiring schematic for the DR350, I want to be able to
>patch into the present wiring to run a cable for the GPS, It appears
>that the headlight recieves different voltages, or amps through the
>throttle range.  The specs on the GPS are 12 to 14V. I will need
>something to stablize the voltage.  Is there anyone out there that has
>done this and know exactly what electronic componets are needed.  That
>would sure solve alot of the problems.
>
>Thanks
>Bryan
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


+-------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products
|  701 34th Ave
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  N47=B036.496'   W122=B017.396'
|  Garmin GPS, software, accessories & mounts
|  GPS webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com/gps
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
|  tel [phone]    fax [phone]
+-------------------------------------+



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 09:53:49 -0800

Bryan Ply wrote:
>
> List,
>
>         I am in need of a wiring schematic for the DR350, I want to be able to
> patch into the present wiring to run a cable for the GPS, It appears
> that the headlight recieves different voltages, or amps through the
> throttle range.  The specs on the GPS are 12 to 14V. I will need
> something to stablize the voltage.  Is there anyone out there that has
> done this and know exactly what electronic componets are needed.  That
> would sure solve alot of the problems.
>
Brian,
    Save yourself a lot of problems and just run a wire direct to the
battery. That way you won't have to worry about it being turned off when
you switch of the key. I do a lot of checking of topo coordinates while
stopped. Just make sure you turn it off after the end of your ride. It
will drain the battery, after several days. Don't ask me how I know!
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Rear shocks available by PS
Date: 24 Mar 2000 09:57:01 -0800

[e-mail] wrote:
>
> Progressive Suspensions has shocks and springs available for the DR line.
> Go to:
> http://www.progressivesuspension.com/applications/
>
> Ric

Ric,
    Take a look again, they only have front springs for the DR650, but do
have both for the DR350.
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Wayne Marsula' <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 10:00:43 -0800


Brian,
    If you need the jack for the Garmin to make your own harness, go here:
http://pfranc.com/
Wayne
--
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA     +=+=+=+ "i souport publik edekasion"
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"    "from 50 to 1100cc"
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)    BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE    Yamaha YSR50    Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
         Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America    Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club    Honda SOHC4 #539
San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group
     http://www.mikthebik.com/
National Rifle Association    "Honk if you've seen a rider with a Ruger"

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Tire Sizes
Date: 24 Mar 2000 14:48:00 EST

New DOT approved Dunlop D606 got a great write up from Damon Powell in the
latest Dirt Rider Mag.  He said 1600 miles on the rear with awesome traction
on the dirt.

Chris in Nor Cal

In a message dated 3/23/00 11:52:45 PM, [e-mail] writes:

<<   I have an SE as well and use the Pirelli MT21 in the
rear and a Dunlop K139 in the front.This is in my
opinion only the most aggressive D.O.T. legal set up
you can buy.Stick with the 120 width in the rear.You
can fit the 130 but I do not think a stock motor needs
a bigger than 120 to provide good traction.The Pirelli
will also give you good wear this is my set up now and
future.Any other sugg. guys?
 >>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Interesting Supermoto Modification
Date: 25 Mar 2000 00:28:27 +0100

Hi list,

may be some of you are interested in an uncommon modification of a
DR 350 SE.

Some weeks ago I found a boy (in the Web) who has modified his
DR 350 to a Supermoto bike. Supermoto is, as far as I know,
not common in the States, but in Europe - Enduro bikes with
17 " wheels and street/racing tires, especially for racing on
outdoor cart tracks.

If someone is interested in: send a mail to
 [e-mail]
his name is Gernot.

All times good grip

J=FCrgen




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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) German DR Sites
Date: 25 Mar 2000 00:41:44 +0100

Hi,

despite this is an international list with English as preferred
language,
perhaps somebody is interested in German web sites about
DR 350. Here the are (of course Ludwigs pages are included):

<A HREF=3D"http://www.uni-mainz.de/~sackr000/versufr.htm">Verbesserungen
Suzuki DR 350</A>

<A HREF=3D"http://rubicon.off-road.com/~unthank/dr350.html">Suzuki DR350
Web Page</A>

<A HREF=3D"http://gabor.uni-muenster.de/~merkand/moto/dr350.htm">DR350</A=
>

<A HREF=3D"http://kawoserv.kawo2.rwth-aachen.de/~bossi/dr350.html">Suzuki
DR 350 S Technical Information</A>

<A
HREF=3D"http://www.ccwn.org/Ludwig.Geromiller/motorrad/dr350.htm">Ludwig'=
s
Suzuki DR 350 Page</A>

<A HREF=3D"http://members.tripod.de/~merkand/">Andre=B4s Homepage</A>

<A HREF=3D"http://www.rz.uni-frankfurt.de/~hoffmeis/dr350.htm">Steffens
DR350 Seite</A>

<A HREF=3D"http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/DR350S.html">Tom Warr's 1990
Suzuki DR350S Project</A>

J=FCrgen



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Headlight..
Date: 24 Mar 2000 20:00:31 EST

I got a headlight from a local shop.. thanks for the response..
Do you want to buy the dual headlight setup.. it's a white steel frame that
bolts to the fork pinch bolts and was incredibly bright.. if I hadn't broke
one of the Hella bulbs (6 1/4")   comes with waterproof rocker switch and
relay.. this is for street DR only because of the high current draw of the
lamps...  $35 + shipping

Guy

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 20:19:34 -0500




>         I am in need of a wiring schematic for the DR350, I want to be able to
> patch into the present wiring to run a cable for the GPS, It appears
> that the headlight recieves different voltages, or amps through the
> throttle range.  The specs on the GPS are 12 to 14V. I will need
> something to stablize the voltage.  Is there anyone out there that has
> done this and know exactly what electronic componets are needed.  That
> would sure solve alot of the problems.

Let me know the year and I can send you a schematic. It is the DR350,
not the DR350S? Also, FYI, many Garmin GPS units will work on any
voltage from 6 to 50. My GPS III+ also has a voltmeter built in. Handy
to just check on the charging system. Especially if you are running any
accessories.

--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tom Myers <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 19:49:08 -0800

>Let me know the year and I can send you a schematic. It is the DR350,
>not the DR350S? Also, FYI, many Garmin GPS units will work on any
>voltage from 6 to 50. My GPS III+ also has a voltmeter built in. Handy
>to just check on the charging system. Especially if you are running any
>accessories.

Hi John,

A couple clarifications:

Some Garmin units convert down to 5-8v (such as GPS12).  If you're using a
Garmin converter cable then you have to get pretty close to 12vDC.  eMap,
eTrex convert down to 3v.

Many Garmins (II, II+, III, III+, 12XL, 12MAP) will run on 10v to 32vDC
external power.  They get sketchy down around 10v, so better provide
11-32v.  If you have a tiny nicad battery (such as on BajaDesigns kits)
using the rear brake a lot (as on mountain switchbacks) can run the battery
down below 11volts, which causes the GPS to shut down.

The voltmeter in the III+ is very handy for chasing down charging problems!

Tom

+------------------------------------+
|  CycoActive Products                tel [phone]
|  701 34th Ave                fax [phone]
|  Seattle, WA 98122    USA
|  webpage:   http://www.cycoactive.com
|  e-mail:  [e-mail]
+------------------------------------+



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) DRZ400E Vibration and Missing
Date: 24 Mar 2000 23:13:44 EST

My bike has a weird cyclical vibration when riding on the road. It will
vibrate for a second or two then stop for three or four seconds. The faster I
ride the shorter the time between the vibrations until about 55-60 mph, then
it continuously resonates (vibrates). I have replaced the tires with M21's.
Any idea what would cause this? I still have the off idle miss as well. I did
turn the pilot screw out 2 turns from fully in and it seemed to help, but if
I turn the throttle open just a bit it will still miss for a couple of
seconds.

Thanks
Mike


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS wiring on DR350
Date: 24 Mar 2000 22:24:24 -0700

I just attatched my Garmin III+ to my KTM Adventure.  Had to get a cross
bar, as the Magura bars don't have one (they are like ProTapers).  The
TouraTech mount (with rubber vibration isolators) attatches to that.  The
CycoActive Bar pack then attatches below the GPS, fitting just right.  It
takes a while to line everything up, and avoid tangles, but I think I got it
right.

I hard wired the unit to my battery, as has been noted.

Tomorrow, I will see how, off pavement, on roads that are unfamiliar to me,
and not on the paper map (yes, I still need one of those) show up on the
GPS.  I have constructed a route on the computer (using MapSource Roads and
Recreation, from Garmin), and I'll see how accurate the CDROM is.

By the way, this month's Motorcycle Consumer News has a comparison test of
several GPS units.  The new Garmin Emap scored the highest (mainly due to
its larger memory capacity - 14 mb, versus 1.4 mb - allowing more room for
downloading supplemental map detail) with the III+ second.  I got the latter
because it is waterproof, and the cool vibration proof mounts from TouraTech
are available for it.

New toy, or essential navigation device?  We'll see, I guess.

Tom Warr



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 25 Mar 2000 09:16:10 -0600

Hey all,
             I talked to Progressive yesterday. Very un-knowledgable
and not much help. They only make the 420 series shock for the '96-'00
DR650SE. In fact they all but called me a liar and said they never made
a 415 series (fully adjustable, remote res) shock for that model.  I
have an article from the March '96 issue of Dirt Rider that they tested
one and it is fitted to a '96 model. The guy said he looked even in an
old book, and there was no listing for that. He even checked with
another person there!! They said that they made one for the '90 to '95
model. They couldn't have used one of these in the test because
according to them there is 2 inches difference in the shocks. Anyway,
the 420 shock that they have now, is only adjustable for preload and
rebound. Compression is automatic. There is no remote reserv. the gas
bladder is inside the shock. Sounds to me like they cut some corners to
cheapen the shock. The price is $415. The spring is progressive of
course and goes from 6.25 Kg to 6.9x Kg. No heavier spring is available.
Like I said they weren't much help. If the stock spring is 6.5 Kg, and
the Progressive starts at 6.25Kg, I never would get the sag right. I
have the stock shock preload almost all the way at the end of the
threads to get proper sag, and I am only about 195lbs!!

  There is what I have found, anyone else??

JB


>>> "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]> 03/23/00 10:24AM >>>
> I can't get the sag right on my 97 DR650.  I need a heavier
> spring.  Suzuki
> doesn't show an optional spring.  I don't  know the spring rate of
the
> stocker to compare.  What am I to do?
>
> I weigh about 250 ready to ride.
>
> Wayne Hinman

you can become Sherlock Holmes for us. Race Tech doesn't have one
either. I
don't know about Eibach. Here are the dimensions of the stocker:

Rated at 6.5 kg

Outside diameter=86mm
Inside diameter=62.57 mm
Coil diameter=11.9 mm
Length = 255 mm.

Please let me know what you find out...Jesse can you help?

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS (more)
Date: 25 Mar 2000 09:00:36 -0600

Tom (and list),
                       I also have the GPS III+, mounted on my DR650SE.
I am using the RAM mount I purchased through CycoActive. It is an
articulated thing that mounts to a hard rubber ball mounted to the bars.
It works very well. Please let us (or me off list) know how the CD map
stuff works. I have been debating whether or not to purchase that CD or
not. I did a little bit of light off road riding the other day, and it
did just fine. I purchased mine from A-Loop and had it "hardened" (shock
proofed) at the time of purchase. I have it plugged into DC while on the
bike too. It is very handy as a speedometer and clock as the factory DR
speedo is a bit off. Having a volt meter is cool too. If anyone would
like more info or pictures (I have a digital camera), please e-mail me
direct.

JB

>>> "Tom Warr" <[e-mail]> 03/24/00 11:24PM >>>
I just attatched my Garmin III+ to my KTM Adventure.  Had to get a
cross
bar, as the Magura bars don't have one (they are like ProTapers).  The
TouraTech mount (with rubber vibration isolators) attatches to that.
The
CycoActive Bar pack then attatches below the GPS, fitting just right.
It
takes a while to line everything up, and avoid tangles, but I think I
got it
right.

I hard wired the unit to my battery, as has been noted.

Tomorrow, I will see how, off pavement, on roads that are unfamiliar to
me,
and not on the paper map (yes, I still need one of those) show up on
the
GPS.  I have constructed a route on the computer (using MapSource Roads
and
Recreation, from Garmin), and I'll see how accurate the CDROM is.

By the way, this month's Motorcycle Consumer News has a comparison test
of
several GPS units.  The new Garmin Emap scored the highest (mainly due
to
its larger memory capacity - 14 mb, versus 1.4 mb - allowing more room
for
downloading supplemental map detail) with the III+ second.  I got the
latter
because it is waterproof, and the cool vibration proof mounts from
TouraTech
are available for it.

New toy, or essential navigation device?  We'll see, I guess.

Tom Warr



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "SWAMPY!" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Florida Cycle Area Work Day
Date: 25 Mar 2000 09:53:03 -0500

Hey Florida Riders,

Our off road brethren are working hard. If ya wanna help 'em, show up!
heck,, on the last project, I made the map of the area people recieve when
they get their permits, and if you look at that fence, I hammered a few
staples into that bad boy. Many hands make lighter work!

Don't forget to wear a WDSRC shirt!

Swampy
_____________________________________________
>Dear Sir or Madam,
>The Central Florida Trail Riders and the Florida Trail Riders have been
>working together for three years to make some much needed improvements to
the
>only State owned motorcycle / ATV Riding area in the State of Florida. Jack
>Terrell (FTR) has led the effort to acquire Federal money made available
>through the Department of Transportation federal gas tax (The National
>Recreational Trails Fund grant program) This program allows non-profit
groups
>to match federal funds with in-kind grants. Both CFTR and FTR each pledged
>grants of approximately $25,000 earning the park almost $100,000.00 worth
of
>improvements.
>The past two years have been filled with completing the contracts, planning
>the improvements, searching for donations, and general planning of the
work.
>The Division of Forestry has welcomed the improvements as their budget
rarely
>allows for any capitol improvements. Park managers Tom Willis and Wayne
Jones
>have embraced the project from the start, making significant suggestions
and
>directions as to how both park managers and users could get the most out of
>the money we have arranged for.
>The majority of the work and donated labor will be performed on the weekend
>of April 15 and 16th. Several hundred members from both groups will
converge
>on the park for two days of hard Labor. When they leave, all that use the
>park will enjoy larger safer parking area's, several new showers, lots of
>fresh paint and some major road improvements.
>The main entry road has never had a proper base laid down so one of the
>biggest projects will be rebuilding a nearly two thousand-foot section. The
>sides suffer from severe erosion and a steep hill has claimed many a
visitor
>to the park. The plans call for preparing the area and installing a lime
rock
>base, shaping the sidewalls for proper drainage and installing tiered water
>flow section with sufficient cover to help eliminate runoff.
>This project has taken many hours of hard work from a large number of
>dedicated volunteers. All of these people expected nothing in return but
the
>opportunity to let their family continue to do what they have always loved
to
>do Trail Ride.
>If you would like to know more about our group or our ongoing projects or
>would like to donate time or money to this project contact Keith Finnerty
at
>1-800-608-4404 or just come out to the Croom Cycle park in the
Withlacoochee
>State forest on 4/15-16/ 2000
> Keith Finnerty
>
>President, Central Florida Trail Riders,
>Florida Trail Riders
>Responsible Motorcyclists
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: webify <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS (more)
Date: 25 Mar 2000 09:58:34 -0500



Jan Bradley wrote:
>
> Tom (and list),
>                        I also have the GPS III+, mounted on my DR650SE.
> I am using the RAM mount I purchased through CycoActive. It is an
> articulated thing that mounts to a hard rubber ball mounted to the bars.
> It works very well. Please let us (or me off list) know how the CD map
> stuff works. I have been debating whether or not to purchase that CD or
> not.

I got the MapSource CD for Christmas. The mapping program itself it as
simple as a fantastically detailed map of the US. Way more detail than
National Geographic Trip Planner or Delorme Street Atlas or Rand McNally
Trip Maker. If there is a road, even one with a bar over it that looks
seldom used, it will often times be on the CD. Huge numbers of hunter
access roads, FS special roads and all those sorts of things are listed.

To date I have only loaded the three local counties, an extremely easy
process, into my GPS III+. I loaded those at "medium" detail level. I am
totally amazed by what I see going by on the screen as I travel about.
Local names for things that I never knew the exact location are on this
software!! 15 years of living here and a GPS is teaching me my local
geography!! Realtime!!! REAL LIFE!! When zoomed in with the unit, you
can pretty much trust every curve you see coming. I believe it when I
see a curve on it, but I don't rely on it to show me every curve. So
far, if its paved its on there, if its dirt and has a number its on
there, if its dirt and has been around awhile, it is likely on there. It
includes campgrounds, trails, all sorts of good data. This software
takes a great product and makes it unbelievable. I am totally reliant on
both for traveling. I do about 25k per year on my street machine.
--
John Hinton - Goshen, VA.
COG #3632
86 Kawasaki Concours
91 Suzuki DR250S "The Doctor"
89 Honda PC-800 Hers
86 Suzuki Savage 650 Hers
http://www.ew3d.com
http://www.mcrides.com/concours

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Andrew <[e-mail]>
Subject: [Fwd: (dr) Handlebars]
Date: 25 Mar 2000 07:11:34 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


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X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Organization: @Home Network
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X-Accept-Language: en
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References: <[e-mail]> <003b01bf9282$21c8e140$[e-mail]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bob,

I put the Button bars on a few days ago and the installation went pretty
smooth.  They feel good cruising on city streets around town but I
haven't had a chance to try them off-road yet (although I,ve got a trip
planned next Thursday with some friends). I'm a beginning rider and am
tall- these feel much better standing up.

Thanks for responding to my message!

Andy Campbell
99 350se

Bob Ralston wrote:
>
> Andrew,
>
> I run the Renthal Jimmy Button bars on my 93 DR350S and love them.  These
> bars were described as being as high as the Desert bars but with a Motocross
> bend.  The put me up farther on the front end and seemed to make the bike
> turn better.  I also just put on the Applied Racing top tripple clamp with
> the higher mounts and this made a huge difference in standing comfort.
>
> Bob Ralston
>
> 93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension, Applied
> Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, Scotts and other Thumper
> Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing
> arm bracing.
> >

--------------B2C328EBD320D606E3E3C4F2--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Ply <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) GPS (more)
Date: 25 Mar 2000 12:31:52 -0600

Jan Bradley wrote:
>
> Tom (and list),
    I have the GPSIII+ with the Mapsource CD, personally I think that the
CD is well worth the 80 dollars for it, the GPS main memory just list
all of the major roads, none of the farm to market(FM) road numbers, if
you install the CD then you get a list all of the roads. The only
downside is using it in big towns like Dallas.  Dallas and FT Worth are
divided into 4 sectionson the CD.  If you put all four sections into the
GPS you have used all of the ram, and cannot put any more counties into
it.  But if installing counties that dont have a lot of roads, it is
possible to install up to 13 counties into it. I uses the maps to get
more detail in the towns that I am not used to, and use Waypoint+ and
Delorme Street Atlas to download the waypoints and routes for trips.

    Jan I would like to see how you have your GPS mounted and wired up.

Thanks
Bryan

>                        I also have the GPS III+, mounted on my DR650SE.
> I am using the RAM mount I purchased through CycoActive. It is an
> articulated thing that mounts to a hard rubber ball mounted to the bars.
> It works very well. Please let us (or me off list) know how the CD map
> stuff works. I have been debating whether or not to purchase that CD or
> not. I did a little bit of light off road riding the other day, and it
> did just fine. I purchased mine from A-Loop and had it "hardened" (shock
> proofed) at the time of purchase. I have it plugged into DC while on the
> bike too. It is very handy as a speedometer and clock as the factory DR
> speedo is a bit off. Having a volt meter is cool too. If anyone would
> like more info or pictures (I have a digital camera), please e-mail me
> direct.
>
> JB

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR Headlight..
Date: 25 Mar 2000 12:38:34 -0800



> I got a headlight from a local shop.. thanks for the response..
> Do you want to buy the dual headlight setup.. it's a white steel frame
that
> bolts to the fork pinch bolts and was incredibly bright.. if I hadn't
broke
> one of the Hella bulbs (6 1/4")   comes with waterproof rocker switch and
> relay.. this is for street DR only because of the high current draw of the
> lamps...  $35 + shipping

Any info on the Manufacturer?  Part number?  etc...

Cheers,

Arne



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Arne Larsen" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Shock Spring
Date: 25 Mar 2000 12:45:21 -0800



> Hey all,
>              I talked to Progressive yesterday. Very un-knowledgable
> and not much help. They only make the 420 series shock for the '96-'00
> DR650SE.
> Anyway,
> the 420 shock that they have now, is only adjustable for preload and
> rebound. Compression is automatic. There is no remote reserv. the gas
> bladder is inside the shock. Sounds to me like they cut some corners to
> cheapen the shock. The price is $415. The spring is progressive of
> course and goes from 6.25 Kg to 6.9x Kg. No heavier spring is available.
> Like I said they weren't much help. If the stock spring is 6.5 Kg, and
> the Progressive starts at 6.25Kg, I never would get the sag right. I
> have the stock shock preload almost all the way at the end of the
> threads to get proper sag, and I am only about 195lbs!!

I have a 250 lb friend that installed the Progressive 420 shock on his KLR.
He is 'very' happy with the performance, and the bike looks like a bike in
the back end now again, as opposed to a dog with it's tail between it's legs
while he's sitting on it.  I don't know how the KLR stock spring rate
compares to the DR650 stock spring rate... all I know is that the sag is
gone and the shock performs well for him.

Cheers,

Arne



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From: "Wesley Woolfall" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) English Riders
Date: 25 Mar 2000 22:20:44 -0000

I would be very interested in finding out how many people are from England
on this list, and what area you are from, and the bike(s) you ride. If you
are from England and would like to reply pls do so, but reply to me
personaly.
And how many people are on this list at the moment.

Wez



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From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DRZ400E Vibration and Missing
Date: 25 Mar 2000 20:45:46 -0600


> My bike has a weird cyclical vibration when riding on the road. It will
> vibrate for a second or two then stop for three or four seconds. The
faster I
> ride the shorter the time between the vibrations until about 55-60 mph,
then
> it continuously resonates (vibrates). I have replaced the tires with
M21's.
> Any idea what would cause this? I still have the off idle miss as well. I
did
> turn the pilot screw out 2 turns from fully in and it seemed to help, but
if
> I turn the throttle open just a bit it will still miss for a couple of
> seconds.
>
> Thanks
> Mike


    Having rode my DRZ400S quite a bit----I can just say I don't think it is
a problem with all of them-----cause mine runs so perfect!!!!!

Mark


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From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Headlight grill
Date: 25 Mar 2000 20:57:30 -0800 (PST)

I put a post about a week and a half ago asking about
headlight guards thanks for all the replys.I found out
Baja designs will custom make a stianless steel mesh
guard any size for 15.95.



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) dr400e
Date: 26 Mar 2000 10:27:02 EST

i purchased a dr 400e and was wondering if any one had any tunning tips
thanks jt

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From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr400e
Date: 26 Mar 2000 08:38:18 -0800

http://www.xmission.com/~blaineh/tools.html  has good tuning tips


----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 7:27 AM


> i purchased a dr 400e and was wondering if any one had any tunning tips
> thanks jt
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>


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From: Steven McGarry <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) English Riders
Date: 26 Mar 2000 15:08:45 -0500

dose  scotland count

stevie
1994 dr50s
2000 ktm adventure-r

-------------Forwarded Message-----------------

    =



RE:    (dr) English Riders

 =

I would be very interested in finding out how many people are from Englan=
d
on this list, and what area you are from, and the bike(s) you ride. If yo=
u
are from England and would like to reply pls do so, but reply to me
personaly.
And how many people are on this list at the moment.

Wez



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Reply-To: "Wesley Woolfall" <[e-mail]>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400S gas mileage
Date: 26 Mar 2000 08:01:45 -0600

    I've check the fuel mileage on my DRZ400S twice.

1.  57mpg-----just backroad riding trying to break it in.

2.  53mpg-----combination backroading and some pretty technical
trails---actually more technical than I intended on riding.

Even with the 2.6 (total, with reserve) gal. tank it is no problem running
well over 100 miles on a tank. But I do think I will get a plastic tank,
cause I know the pretty blue one is going to get scratched up!!!

Mark Sampson


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr400e
Date: 26 Mar 2000 22:01:37 -0800

Well,  I'm sorry you can't appreciate the tech tips found there.

I didn't think you would get a whole lot of other tuning tips for a bike
that almost no one else has yet - so I offered you this link.

Everyone else I've shared this with found it very good reading - I know I
learned a few things.


:)



----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 4:26 PM


> In a message dated 3/26/00 8:36:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [e-mail] writes:
>
> << http://www.xmission.com/~blaineh/tools.html >>
> wise ass
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: Re: (dr) Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 27 Mar 2000 16:44:12 EST

Chaparral in California sells the kit all you do is disconect the cables and
attach
this clamp which is provided with it and spray the lube into the clamp
through a
holeuntil it comes out the other end

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From: <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Cheaper way - Lubrication of throttle cable
Date: 27 Mar 2000 16:12:40 -0600




A cheaper way is to get a piece of parchment paper or wax paper, cut in half in
a triangle. Fold the paper into a cone
around the cable and tape it together on the outside. (I use the same technique
for a pastry bag) Apply lubrication
through the cone.

That's all!
Ric

Chaparral in California sells the kit all you do is disconect the cables and
attach
this clamp which is provided with it and spray the lube into the clamp
through a
holeuntil it comes out the other end

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The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which
it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material.  Any
review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action
in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the
intended recipient is prohibited.   If you received this in error, please
contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Markus LIndrgen <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) New parts, more power?!
Date: 28 Mar 2000 08:41:02 +0200

Jesse,
thanks for your help. I decided to go for stock parts though. Not as much
fun as 440 but I think the price difference is too big. Instead I=B4m saving
the money for a DR-Z in the future!!

By the way, has anyone mounted a bicycle computer on your DR? Does it work=
 ok?

Markus





At 07.10 2000-03-21 -0800, Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com wrote:
>Hi Markus, I would recommend the Thumper Racing 435 kit they just started
>making a 1mm oversize that would give you 441 when you wearout the 435.=
 This
>kit sells for $250.00 plus the machining to install the sleeve which is
>130.00 I have these in stock. check out my website below.I could also get
>your rockerarm for you or repair yours how is your cam?
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
>Behalf Of Markus LIndrgen
>Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 3:57 PM
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr) New parts, more power?!
>
>
>Hi!
>
>I need some new parts for my dr-s -92 (piston and rings one oversize, one
>rocker arm) and from what I=B4ve read in magazines like Dirt rider etc.=
 parts
>seem to be much cheaper in the US than here in Sweden. Can someone please
>tell me how much these parts cost and if there is a homepage where I can
>order from?
>
>Now when I=B4m about to bore the cylinder it would be great to gain some
>power also. How much is a 440 kit in the US? I checked in my White Brothers
>catalogue and the swedish prices are to high for a poor student like me.
>
>I=B4m also wondering how high the compression are on these kits. I`ve=
 already
>raised the compression on my bike (about 10:1, stock 9,5:1) by milling the
>head. I don=B4t think you can go higher than 10,5:1 having in mind that the
>engine is air cooled.
>
>I would appreciate some help with this!
>
>Markus
>Skellefte=E5, Sweden (The snow is melting, have to fix my bike-fast :-)
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Edward Marlowe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) New parts, more power?!
Date: 28 Mar 2000 08:28:21 +0100

I have just fitted a bicycle speedo to my DRZ 400, I first tried the
cordless type (seemed the best idea) but it picked up magnetic impulses from
the motor which froze the display. I then tried the a "Sigma" brand with
cord but the cord was too short. I succeeded with a "Cateye" brand howeved
the magnetic pikup from cateye will not attach to your spokes, you will need
a magnet that you can Epoxy resin on. To space out the pickup, I cable tied
a black rubber door stop (the wedge shape) to the forks and fastened the
pick up to this. The set up work fine in all condition and stays in place no
problem,
Hope this helps.
Edward
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 7:41 AM


Jesse,
thanks for your help. I decided to go for stock parts though. Not as much
fun as 440 but I think the price difference is too big. Instead I┤m saving
the money for a DR-Z in the future!!

By the way, has anyone mounted a bicycle computer on your DR? Does it work
ok?

Markus





At 07.10 2000-03-21 -0800, Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com wrote:
>Hi Markus, I would recommend the Thumper Racing 435 kit they just started
>making a 1mm oversize that would give you 441 when you wearout the 435.
This
>kit sells for $250.00 plus the machining to install the sleeve which is
>130.00 I have these in stock. check out my website below.I could also get
>your rockerarm for you or repair yours how is your cam?
>
>Regards,
>Jesse Kientz
>http://www.kientech.com/
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
>Behalf Of Markus LIndrgen
>Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 3:57 PM
>To: [e-mail]
>Subject: (dr) New parts, more power?!
>
>
>Hi!
>
>I need some new parts for my dr-s -92 (piston and rings one oversize, one
>rocker arm) and from what I┤ve read in magazines like Dirt rider etc. parts
>seem to be much cheaper in the US than here in Sweden. Can someone please
>tell me how much these parts cost and if there is a homepage where I can
>order from?
>
>Now when I┤m about to bore the cylinder it would be great to gain some
>power also. How much is a 440 kit in the US? I checked in my White Brothers
>catalogue and the swedish prices are to high for a poor student like me.
>
>I┤m also wondering how high the compression are on these kits. I`ve already
>raised the compression on my bike (about 10:1, stock 9,5:1) by milling the
>head. I don┤t think you can go higher than 10,5:1 having in mind that the
>engine is air cooled.
>
>I would appreciate some help with this!
>
>Markus
>Skellefteσ, Sweden (The snow is melting, have to fix my bike-fast :-)
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Dual Star centerstand...
Date: 28 Mar 2000 07:17:32 -0700

I talked with Mike Walburn at DualStar yesterday. They're very close to
producing a beta batch of centerstands for the DR650...he had me take some
digital pics of my DG bash plate to see about interference. Look for a full
review in Dual Sport News soon.

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris  Tobey <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) airbox for sale
Date: 28 Mar 2000 08:55:48 -0600

List, I have a stock airbox with the top cut out of it for sale.  I have
Jesse's Vortex airbox on its way.  If anyone is interested I am asking $25
for it and the buyer pays shipping.

Thanks Chris
99 DR350X

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Utah Get-Together Update
Date: 28 Mar 2000 08:27:22 -0800





Just a note that new events and a ride schedule have been added to the Utah
Get-Together schedule.  Check out the activities at
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/schedule.html

Of special interest may be the White Rim campout ride that will take place
just before the Get-Together.  The campout is limited to a small number of
bikes, so get your info in as soon as possible to Bob Carreras; he has a
link on the events page.

Also, if you are familiar with some of these rides and would like to
volunteer as ride support or general support for the Get-Together, let me
know.  We need help with registration,  setup and cleanup and general
gophering..  Just e-mail me offlist at [e-mail].

Gino



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Re: Computer
Date: 28 Mar 2000 12:01:02 EST

Markus,
I'm using a Specialized "Sport" mountain bike computer.. has speed, odo,
total dist. and a clock.. and has a heavyduty sensor wire.. I had to go to a
cycle computer when going to RM forks.., losing the stock odo drive...

One drawback.. You have to mount a magnet on the front wheel.. a rock knocked
it offf at a dualsport ride leaving me lost on the  routechart!!

Guy

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400S Plastic Tank
Date: 28 Mar 2000 16:02:58 -0600

    Anybody put a plastic tank on their 2000 DRZ400S yet????????

    Tell us all about it if you have!!!!!!!11

Thanks!!!!Mark Sampson [e-mail]
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (Street legalized-well sorta)
1997 BMW F650
1989 Honda Transalp


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Bryan Cowger <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Re: Computer
Date: 28 Mar 2000 15:09:40 -0800


>
> One drawback.. You have to mount a magnet on the front wheel.. a rock knocked
> it offf at a dualsport ride leaving me lost on the  routechart!!

Another alternative is to mount the magnet in the front disk itself,
utilizing one of the holes with a like-sized magnet.  I found a rare
earth magnet that I super-glued into one of the inner holes.

The sensor then gets attached off the left fork, and is held on by tie
wraps and hot-melt glue.

To extend the wires on these things, a common method is to splice a
section (~3' or so) of 75 ohm coax cable into the wire.  One wire of the
pickup gets soldered to the core of the coax (make sure you use solid
wired coax), and the other wire gets soldered to the outer shield.  Make
sure they aren't touching each other, surround the joint with some heat
shrink tubing, and then squirt in some hot-melt glue.  The glue will
shrink the heat shrink tubing into a nice joint, ensures that the
soldered joints remain solid, and insulates between the two conductors.

Mount the sensor as indicated above, and tie-wrap the coax cable to the
brake line, all the way up to near the handlebars.  This ensures a
pretty durable installation and accounts for fork travel.

Finally, one of the plastic front disk guards (like from Maier) will
really help to keep an errant branch from ripping your wiring off.

Bryan
'96 DR441

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jakes Louw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DRZ400
Date: 29 Mar 2000 09:46:20 +0200

** High Priority **


Most of you will never read the article, but the South African Bike =
magazine (Bike SA, duh!) has an article that includes some views on the =
DRZ400 (and I'm sure the editor, Simon Fourie, or the writer of the =
article, Howard Stafford, won't mind me quoting verbatim).

The article was about an off-road ride between Johannesburg and Cape Town: =
over 1800km (that over 1000 miles) off total off-road riding.=20

Here we go:

"The BMW F650 makes about 160km/h, and so does the DRZ400, thanks to a =
larger front sprocket which Suzuki had fitted for us. Bloody amazing =
little bike the DRZ400. At one stage there were some wild yumps in the =
road which lifted our front wheels and Patrick simply held the DR on the =
throttle and maintained 300metre, 120km/h, totally controlled wheelies, =
one after the other."

"Awesome little bike in an awesome landscape": picture of DRZ400 on a hill =
overlooking a valley between Clanwilliam and Englishman's Grove.

"The DRZ400 was everyone's favourite plaything, agile and nippy and light =
and maneuverable, but no match for the bigger bikes in the comfort stakes =
on the long haul. The suspension was excellent for what we used it for, =
unlike the stiff competition setup of the Yamaha YZ400 it  is aimed at."

There you have it.=20



Jakes Louw

HP-UX Systems Administrator



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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR650 Resource Page
Date: 29 Mar 2000 15:00:03 -0700

Hello All,

I'm in the process of building a DR650 web page. I'm contemplating a section
on all possible accessories for the bike. Any info on tires, exhaust, seats,
etc would be appreciated as well as opinions on the items.


Regards,


Shayne Seefeldt
www.calgaryjiujitsu.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Oliver Block <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Advice on Larin Motorcycle Jack
Date: 29 Mar 2000 18:06:32 -0600

Hi,
    Sam's Club in St. Louis is selling the Larin 1500lb. Motorcycle/ATV
Jack (Model LATV-J) for $99.97.  The box says the jack's maximum height
is 17", the lowest height is 5".  It also has 6 locking positions.  Does
anyone have any experience with this jack or with other Larin jacks?
Any recommendations?  Warnings?
    I was going to replace the foot-stool I currently use with a Moose
lift stand or comparable model, but the Larin jack looks much more
versatile.  Unfortunately, it's also a lot heavier and takes up more
floor space when it's not in use.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

-Oliver
'95 DR350SE

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark and Debi" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Suspension Sag--2000 DRZ400S
Date: 29 Mar 2000 20:35:59 -0600

    Somebody help me!!

    I haven't set suspension sag in so long I have forgotten how!!!!!

I'm thinking the rear suspension sag should be about 100MM-----That is 100MM
difference from the rear suspension being fully extended---to when I am
sitting on it with all my gear. Am I all wet??????

    What about the front??????

    Mark Sampson [e-mail]
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (Street legalized-well sorta)
1997 BMW F650
1989 Honda Transalp


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Test -no message
Date: 29 Mar 2000 19:13:10 -0800 (PST)

Test

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Suspension Sag--2000 DRZ400S
Date: 29 Mar 2000 20:44:38 -0800

Hi Mark,you just lift the bike with a jack stand so the wheel is off the
ground.  You measure from the center of the rear axle to 20 inches and make
a small mark on the side cover, then let the bike down and with riding gear
stand on the pegs with some one holding the bike have some one remeasure
from the center of the axle up to your mark 100mm is 4inches so you should
now be 16 inches with  inches of sag. Hope this helps

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mark and Debi
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 6:36 PM


    Somebody help me!!

    I haven't set suspension sag in so long I have forgotten how!!!!!

I'm thinking the rear suspension sag should be about 100MM-----That is 100MM
difference from the rear suspension being fully extended---to when I am
sitting on it with all my gear. Am I all wet??????

    What about the front??????

    Mark Sampson [e-mail]
2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
1999 Yamaha TTR250 (Street legalized-well sorta)
1997 BMW F650
1989 Honda Transalp


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Suspension Sag--2000 DRZ400S
Date: 30 Mar 2000 09:44:15 -0700

Mark,

When you set your sag, it is reccomended that to be consistant, the
rider needs to be standing on the pegs, as an inch forward or back
setting on the seat is a lot. Put a mark on the rear fender where it is
perpendicular to axel arc, and measure from the axel to the mark with
the rear wheel off the ground. Then make the same measurement from the
same two points with the rider (in full riding gear) standing on the
pegs.   The Suzuki Rep. told us that 3.75" of sag is where it should be
on the DRZ400.  The problem is, if you are around 180 lbs, after setting
the sag at 3.75 inches, the free sag (motorcycle weight only) is over
1.25 inches.  This is approx. 1/2 inch more than it should be.   This
tells me the rear spring is either too stiff for the average, or the sag
should be set at around 3.25 inches for the lighter riders. The front is
just fine with the .44kg springs and the preload is pretty close unless
motorcross is the plan. Let us know what sag setting works best for
you.  Norm

Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299


Mark and Debi wrote:

>     Somebody help me!!
>
>     I haven't set suspension sag in so long I have forgotten how!!!!!
>
> I'm thinking the rear suspension sag should be about 100MM-----That is 100MM
> difference from the rear suspension being fully extended---to when I am
> sitting on it with all my gear. Am I all wet??????
>
>     What about the front??????
>
>     Mark Sampson [e-mail]
> 2000 Suzuki DRZ400S
> 1999 Yamaha TTR250 (Street legalized-well sorta)
> 1997 BMW F650
> 1989 Honda Transalp
>

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR435 first impressions - two thumbs up!
Date: 30 Mar 2000 22:52:59 -0800

Hello everybody,
I just had a nice ride today in the Tillamook Burn area up here in Oregon,
on the new Kientech engineered scooter-  it's definitely two thumbs up!
Rode with an RM250 and an XR400,  and found a chance to do a little drag
racing against the XR.
Easily passed him,   no question  who had the juice between them.  The DR
hasn't even been broken in yet,   less than a tank of gas thru it.
Didn't get a chance to drag the XR600 that joined us,  not that I expect it
to beat one but it would have been interesting to compare.
Ever do third gear power wheelies? accidentally?
For anyone who has considered upgrading their DR,  I can say without doubt
that you will be pulling lots of bugs from your teeth from grinning so hard.
It's really kinda fun to surprise riders who haven't been exposed to a
almost maxed out  DR. ( "what are those big fins? 'That doesnt sound like my
buddy's DR" Hey I need one of those chest guards, those rocks HURT")
Ever rode a tractor that flys too?  I have =)

Work Jesse has done for my 94 so far:
Vortex air box ( of course =)
Applied Racing Triple clamp (  THE  first one they ever made for a DR, neat
huh? )
Pro Tapers
Acerbis aluminum hand guards
Eibach rear spring
Kouba links ( worth 1000 times their weight in gold )
Gold Valves
Progressive ( I think that's the brand ) front springs
Thumper racing 435 kit
Bored carb throat out to I think 25mm
Some kinda fat cam he likes ( not sure what it was )
Fat head pipe ( he hand made this one from stainless and had it plated with
space age secret stuff)
Took the head to an exclusive machine shop ( my dad's =)  and added cooling
fins as big as you can possibly add ( thanks dad!! )
Lowered, rearset footpegs

I guess that's most of the mods so far.  Other things I want to do yet:
The bike has a Cobra muffler, I'm gonna junkpile it where it belongs and get
a power core IV or Big gun this week to round it out the engine work,
Jetting with a Cobra is known to be problematic, and I want mine to run as
good as Jesse's does =).  He has the older Mega Max I think.
Also might know someone who boxes in swingarms =)

A warning to all of you,  if you ever get a chance to ride Jesse's DR you
will be bitten, and you will succumb to the intoxication of the Thumper in
all it's glory -  this is inescapable,  so be forewarned.....

Enjoy the sunshine folks!





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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Rainer Knape <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR650SE, Kouba links
Date: 31 Mar 2000 12:01:58 +0200

Hello Norm,

I understand that you actually do not offer the Kouba links for the DR
650 (I have seen that you are planning to make them for the DR400 too).
Maybe you could explain to the DR650 owners of the list if we can expect
you to develop some.
Or isn't there any need because the suspensions geometry is 'better'
than the DR 350 one's and it would not be an improvement ?

Thanks
Rainer


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Springer <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR435 first impressions - two thumbs up!
Date: 31 Mar 2000 06:32:11 -0800

"Jeff A. Henshaw" wrote:
>
> Hello everybody,
> I just had a nice ride today in the Tillamook Burn area up here in Oregon,
> on the new Kientech engineered scooter-  it's definitely two thumbs up!
> Rode with an RM250 and an XR400,  and found a chance to do a little drag
> racing against the XR.
> Easily passed him,

> Lowered, rearset footpegs

   Jeff, what is the lowered footpeg think that you did?  Can you
explain?  I have put a set of rear pegs about 10 inches behind my
stockers and find it does wonders for uphill climbs.  Much more control
and not as much strength required to hold yourself up to the handle
bars.  Do you have a picture of your setup?

   Incidentally how much would all that modification (all the Mods) to
the bike cost the average guy.

   Answer these questions to the whole list, please.  I think everyone
would be interested.
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


--


Pete Springer                                      PH 760-753-8475
Box 938                       501 Union St.
Cardiff, Ca 92007             Encinitas, Ca 92024

84 V65 Sabre, Honda
83 V65 Magna, Honda
86 VF700C Magna, Honda
86 XR600, Honda
94 DR350, Suzuki
85 XR350, Honda
87 TW200, Yam

The only thing worth dying for is living.
It's not smart people that live to be old, It's lucky people.
Sabre shock Altering is the answer to "The Meaning of Life"

(honda magna,honda sabre,V65,1100cc,vf750s,vf700s,vf700c,vf750c,honda
interceptor,vfr750f)

(honda
magnum,v45,750cc,vf750,vf700,vfr750,vfr800,vfr800f,vf1000,vf1000f)

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mark Sims" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Non-DR: Collett communicators
Date: 31 Mar 2000 10:25:42 -0500

Hi,

I've been looking at Collett's (http://www.collett.mb.ca/)
website.  They have 2 helmet communicators: handsfree,
voice activated.

They are very expensive at $260 for the Model 900 and
$160 for the Model 49.  Of course you have to multiply
that by 2 (1 for me, 1 for my son) and that adds up to
big money.

Has anyone used these?  And what did you think?

Does anyone know of an alternative to Collett?

Regards...Mark
1998 DR350SE
Atlanta, GA

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: njkouba <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650SE, Kouba links
Date: 31 Mar 2000 09:26:51 -0700

Rainer and DR650 Listers,

We have not developed Kouba Links for the later model DR650 because to my
knowledge no-one is manufacturing rear springs with the heavier rates
required for the stock links, and new links would require even heavier.
Also the DR650 already can be lowered with the extra height adjustment on
the bottom shock mount, so lowering the rear would not be one of the
benefits as with the DR350. I would not say the DR650 geometry is better
than the DR350,  I would say that even stock both models are grossly under
sprung both front and rear and when riding double are bottomed out against
the shock stop in the rear before they even move.  There is definitely a
need for some help on the DR650's rear suspension, but untill rear springs
become available we are not planning on new links at this time.  If anyone
out there knows of a line of heavier rear springs for the DR650, please
bring us up to date as we have had a number of inquires asking these same
questions.  Thanks for the inquiry and if anything changes, we will post it
on the DR list.   The DRZ400 lowering links are now available and hope to
get the web-page updated soon.   Jeff H. hhheeelllppp

Norm


Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR.  DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299

Rainer Knape wrote:

> Hello Norm,
>
> I understand that you actually do not offer the Kouba links for the DR
> 650 (I have seen that you are planning to make them for the DR400 too).
> Maybe you could explain to the DR650 owners of the list if we can expect
> you to develop some.
> Or isn't there any need because the suspensions geometry is 'better'
> than the DR 350 one's and it would not be an improvement ?
>
> Thanks
> Rainer
>
>

--
HyperTerminal 1.0 -- HyperTerminal data file
Please do not attempt to modify this file directly.






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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Value of the Boxed Swing Arm (long)
Date: 31 Mar 2000 08:44:50 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF9AED.60449FE0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Everyone,

What is the real value of boxing the swingarm on our DR's?  Will the =
bike track straighter in the rough stuff and handle the hard hits better =
or is this modification just food for our minds? =20

Next: I have a suspension set-up question. I have had my fork and shock =
revalved and resprung by Fineline Racing (highly recommended by Desert =
racing folks) which has helped a lot.  At high speeds (at least for me), =
I get a rear end kick in the rough stuff.  Sag is set correctly.  I am =
running a .46kg springs in the front (10mm preload) and 6.7kg spring on =
the rear without Norm's links (I know this is a sin in this group).  =
Should I increase the compression damping or reduce it? I stayed away =
from the links on the recommendation by Norm due to the fact they would =
really heat up the shock when running for miles in the California desert =
whoops.  I can't reasonably go for more HP if I can't keep the bike =
going straight and keep it on the ground. Any suggestions? =20

Finally (whew):  Has anyone installed the Baja Design seat  kit?  Is it =
easy to do and was it worth it?  I am tired of banging my butt on the =
rear fender and hear the longer length of this seat helps.

Just curious as to how to schedule the next modification to my trusty =
old 93 DRS or should I just quit now and save for a new KTM 400 E/XC?

Bob Ralston

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, IMS 3.5 gal Desert Tank, =
Fineline Suspension, Applied Racing Triple clamps (15mm forward of =
stock), Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop K139 (front) =
& K739 AT Desert (rear), Solid peg mounts, UNI filter, Scotts and other =
Thumper Racing products too numerous to mention.=20

Next step Vortex Airbox and swing arm bracing?

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF9AED.60449FE0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What is the real value of boxing the =
swingarm on=20
our DR's?  Will the bike track straighter in the rough stuff and =
handle the=20
hard hits better or is this modification just food for our minds? =20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Next: I have a suspension set-up =
question. I=20
have had my fork and shock revalved and resprung by Fineline Racing =
(highly=20
recommended by Desert racing folks) which has helped a lot.  At =
high speeds=20
(at least for me), I get a rear end kick in the rough stuff.  Sag =
is set=20
correctly.  I am running a .46kg springs in the front (10mm =
preload) and=20
6.7kg spring on the rear without Norm's links (I know this is a sin in =
this=20
group).  Should I increase the compression damping or reduce it? I =
stayed=20
away from the links on the recommendation by Norm due to the fact they =
would=20
really heat up the shock when running for miles in the California desert =

whoops.  I can't reasonably go for more HP if I can't keep the bike =
going=20
straight and keep it on the ground. Any suggestions?  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Finally (whew):  Has anyone =
installed the Baja=20
Design seat  kit?  Is it easy to do and was it worth it?  =
I am=20
tired of banging my butt on the rear fender and hear the longer length =
of this=20
seat helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just curious as to how to schedule the =
next=20
modification to my trusty old 93 DRS or should I just quit now and save =
for a=20
new KTM 400 E/XC?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Ralston</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox =
mods, IMS=20
3.5 gal Desert Tank, Fineline Suspension, Applied Racing Triple clamps =
(15mm=20
forward of stock), Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop =
K139=20
(front) & K739 AT Desert (rear), Solid peg mounts, UNI filter, =
Scotts=20
and other Thumper Racing products too numerous to mention. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Next step Vortex Airbox and swing arm=20
bracing?<BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four =
Strokes" Rule=20
Class</DIV></FONT></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF9AED.60449FE0--


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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Fw: 93 DR350S Engine Missing
Date: 31 Mar 2000 08:52:52 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BF9AEE.7F798EB0
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Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Jesse,

I dropped down to a 137.5 as you suggested and everything worked great. =
This change smooth out the power delivery considerably in the rocks and =
rough hills.  Thanks.  I finished the Dirt Diggers National Hare and =
Hound last weekend and think I did really well in the four stroke class. =
Come to think about it my DR always finishes (slow and steady may =
eventually win my class).   It was really cool watching the faces on the =
guys running WRs and XRs when I pass them in the nasty rock and single =
track sections.  Now the whoops are another story.  See my other email =
on some suspension questions.

Jesse - Thanks again .  You are a valuable asset to this group.

Bob

----- Original Message -----=20
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 11:41 AM


Hi Everyone,

My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very high RPMs.  I am running with a =
stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX needle in 4th position), a FMF =
PowerCore IV pipe and a modified airbox. Just for grins, I went to a 145 =
main and it got worse.  Does this sound like an carb or electrical =
problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  BTW: I do have a new =
plug and UNI airfilter.

Bob

93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, Fineline Suspension, =
Applied
Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, =
Scotts and other Thumper
Racing products too numerous to mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and =
swing
arm bracing.

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BF9AEE.7F798EB0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Jesse,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I dropped down to a 137.5 as you =
suggested and=20
everything worked great. This change smooth out the power delivery=20
considerably in the rocks and rough hills.  Thanks.  I finished the =
Dirt=20
Diggers National Hare and Hound last weekend and think I did really well =
in the=20
four stroke class. Come to think about it my DR always =
finishes=20
(slow and steady may eventually win my class).   It was really =
cool=20
watching the faces on the guys running WRs and XRs when I pass them in =
the nasty=20
rock and single track sections.  Now the whoops are another =
story. =20
See my other email on some suspension questions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jesse - Thanks again .  You are a =
valuable=20
asset to this group.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]" title=[e-mail]>Bob Ralston</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"=20
title=[e-mail]>DR350</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 21, 2000 11:41 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> 93 DR350S Engine Missing</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My 93 DR350S has an engine miss at very =
high=20
RPMs.  I am running with a stock CV carb (37.5 pilot, 140 main, JX =
needle=20
in 4th position), a FMF PowerCore IV pipe and a modified =
airbox. Just for=20
grins, I went to a 145 main and it got worse.  Does this sound like =
an carb=20
or electrical problem? Other than this miss the bike runs great.  =
BTW: I do=20
have a new plug and UNI airfilter.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox =
mods,=20
Fineline Suspension, Applied<BR>Racing Triple clamps, Renthal Jimmy =
Button Bars,=20
JX Needle/Spring, Scotts and other Thumper<BR>Racing products too =
numerous to=20
mention. Next step Vortex Airbox and swing<BR>arm =
bracing.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four =
Strokes" Rule=20
Class</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BF9AEE.7F798EB0--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bob Ralston" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Clutch Replacement Time
Date: 31 Mar 2000 09:28:44 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF9AF3.82935F90
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

Everyone,

After 9 years of faithful service it is time to replace the clutch on my =
trusty 93 DRS.  Should I go with the RMX parts (if so which #'s) or the =
Barnett clutch kit?

Thanks,

Bob Ralston
=20
93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, IMS 3.5 gal Desert Tank, =
Fineline Suspension, Applied Racing Triple clamps (15mm forward of =
stock), Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop K139 (front) =
& K739 AT Desert (rear), Solid peg mounts, UNI filter, Scotts and other =
Thumper Racing products too numerous to mention.=20
=20
Next step Vortex Airbox and swing arm bracing?

District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule Class

------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF9AF3.82935F90
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>After 9 years of faithful service it is =
time to=20
replace the clutch on my trusty 93 DRS.  Should I go with the =
RMX=20
parts (if so which #'s) or the Barnett clutch kit?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob Ralston</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox =
mods, IMS=20
3.5 gal Desert Tank, Fineline Suspension, Applied Racing Triple clamps =
(15mm=20
forward of stock), Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop =
K139=20
(front) & K739 AT Desert (rear), Solid peg mounts, UNI filter, =
Scotts=20
and other Thumper Racing products too numerous to mention. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Next step Vortex Airbox and swing arm=20
bracing?</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four =
Strokes" Rule=20
Class</DIV></FONT></FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0050_01BF9AF3.82935F90--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR650SE, Kouba links
Date: 31 Mar 2000 10:36:15 -0700

> become available we are not planning on new links at this time.  If anyone
> out there knows of a line of heavier rear springs for the DR650, please
> bring us up to date as we have had a number of inquires asking these same
> questions.  Thanks for the inquiry and if anything changes, we
> will post it
> on the DR list.

I talked with Mike Walburn of DualStar about this problem the other day. He
went to work on it and talked Bob Henderson of Progressive to pull one of
their springs off their 620 series and send it to Mike. It is one inch
longer so it will take away the ability to do the lowering adjustment in the
rear. It is rated at 6.2-7.0 kg. I sent my shock to Mike for the install so
that he could verify personally that it works.

If someone has charts of dimensions nearby here are the dimensions of the
stocker rated at 6.5 kg:


OD=86 mm
ID=62.57 mm
Length=255mm (there is plenty of room on the shock body for a longer shock
provided a person is willing to give up the lowering option)
Coil diameter=11.9 mm


BTW, Mike is looking for a DR650SE owner in the Seattle area to beta test
the DR650 stand? anyone on the list?

Kurt


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Edward Marlowe" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR350 for sale
Date: 31 Mar 2000 20:36:33 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9B50.CD7BE100
Content-Type: text/plain;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Edward Marlowe=20
Sent: Friday, March 31Subject: DR 350


ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the arrival of a new DRZ 400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov 98')
Under manufactures warranty until Nov, 2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use only.
CRD end can,  frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly .
=A32395 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire

[e-mail]



------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9B50.CD7BE100
Content-Type: text/html;
    charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"=20
title=[e-mail]>Edward Marlowe</A>=20
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]"=20
title=[e-mail]>[e-mail]</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 31<B>Subject:</B> DR 350</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4><U>ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS</U></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Due to the arrival of a new DRZ 400E!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>FOR SALE</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov =
98')</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Under manufactures warranty until Nov, =
2000</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use =
only.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>CRD end can,  frame protectors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly =
.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>=A32395 o.n.o</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Located West Yorkshire</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:[e-mail]">[e-mail]</A></FO=
NT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF9B50.CD7BE100--


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 for sale
Date: 31 Mar 2000 14:02:02 -0700

Edward and all listers, please send only plain text messages to the
list...anything else sends immense "garbage" characters to the digest
subscribers....

Thank you,

Kurt Simpson


-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Edward Marlowe
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 12:37 PM


Edward Marlowe
Sent: Friday, March 31Subject: DR 350


ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the arrival of a new DRZ 400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov 98')
Under manufactures warranty until Nov, 2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use only.
CRD end can,  frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly .
ú2395 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire

[e-mail]


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [e-mail]
Subject: (dr) Clutch Problem
Date: 31 Mar 2000 17:56:36 EST

I wonder if anyone has experienced the same problem. I went riding the other
day and was riding pretty hard and now my clutch is stuck like it's engaged
halfway. There is no play in the cable now. Does this mean the Clutch plates
are smoked? the Bike has only 1K miles.  Oh it's a DR350SEW

HAMMY

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DSN help on road test...April 6-10
Date: 31 Mar 2000 16:01:31 -0700

DSN's premiere road tester, Toby Lampson, is flying into Salt Lake City this
coming Thursday to live with our latest test bike for four days. I'm looking
for some support help. What we need is some folks who can ride with Toby for
a few hours during the four days for backup purposes; help plan some good
routes in and around Salt Lake/Park City; and perhaps most importantly, do
some photography. This is a perfect opportunity for amateur photographers to
get some experience and maybe end up with a cover shot or established
professionals to extend their resume. Please let me know if you would like
to and can assist.

Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News


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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: David & Dorothy Pelton <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) DR650 Seat Comfort
Date: 31 Mar 2000 16:37:14 -0800


Greetings,

   My name is Dave Pelton, and though I'm not really new to the  list,
I've been lurking in the background for some time.  I don't have a DR,
but am considering buying a DR650 to use for both off-road and road
use.  Other bikes I'm considering are the KLR650 and (maybe) a  older
R80GS.    I realize that the DR is the best choice of the three for
riding off-road.  My question is what people think of it for longer
rides on the street.
I plan to do some trips with 400+ mile days. (For example,
Portland-Death Valley.)  I can deal with the vibes, but am concerned
about seat comfort.  Also, does anyone have any experience with the
Suzuki factory Gel Seat?  Thanks for the help.

Dave Pelton
Portland,  OR
'98 VTR 1000




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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR435 first impressions - two thumbs up!
Date: 31 Mar 2000 17:38:41 -0800 (PST)

I have two friends who's motors Jesse is currently in
posession of going for the full package as well
cam,head ported+polished,435 kit,bored out dirt
carb(it's 35mm by the way).I will soon get my a$$
spanked around on my stocker and by this time next
year will have my bike done as well.Jesse knows his
stuff on our bikes up+down inside+out and I am
gratefull for all the time and help he has given me
with my bike.He has saved me many a trip to the
dreaded dealer and has expanded my knowledge on the
DR350 and to him I say thank you.I will be sure to put
up a post when they get their bikes going(about three
weeks or so).By the way my bike runs along side a 2000
XR400 with Jesse's airbox and an FMF powercore4
muffler and the carb jetted and JX needle a welcome
combo for a wake up on a stock bike and that's no lie.

--- "Jeff A. Henshaw" <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Hello everybody,
> I just had a nice ride today in the Tillamook Burn
> area up here in Oregon,
> on the new Kientech engineered scooter-  it's
> definitely two thumbs up!
> Rode with an RM250 and an XR400,  and found a chance
> to do a little drag
> racing against the XR.
> Easily passed him,   no question  who had the juice
> between them.  The DR
> hasn't even been broken in yet,   less than a tank
> of gas thru it.
> Didn't get a chance to drag the XR600 that joined
> us,  not that I expect it
> to beat one but it would have been interesting to
> compare.
> Ever do third gear power wheelies? accidentally?
> For anyone who has considered upgrading their DR,  I
> can say without doubt
> that you will be pulling lots of bugs from your
> teeth from grinning so hard.
> It's really kinda fun to surprise riders who haven't
> been exposed to a
> almost maxed out  DR. ( "what are those big fins?
> 'That doesnt sound like my
> buddy's DR" Hey I need one of those chest guards,
> those rocks HURT")
> Ever rode a tractor that flys too?  I have =)
>
> Work Jesse has done for my 94 so far:
> Vortex air box ( of course =)
> Applied Racing Triple clamp (  THE  first one they
> ever made for a DR, neat
> huh? )
> Pro Tapers
> Acerbis aluminum hand guards
> Eibach rear spring
> Kouba links ( worth 1000 times their weight in gold
> )
> Gold Valves
> Progressive ( I think that's the brand ) front
> springs
> Thumper racing 435 kit
> Bored carb throat out to I think 25mm
> Some kinda fat cam he likes ( not sure what it was )
> Fat head pipe ( he hand made this one from stainless
> and had it plated with
> space age secret stuff)
> Took the head to an exclusive machine shop ( my
> dad's =)  and added cooling
> fins as big as you can possibly add ( thanks dad!! )
> Lowered, rearset footpegs
>
> I guess that's most of the mods so far.  Other
> things I want to do yet:
> The bike has a Cobra muffler, I'm gonna junkpile it
> where it belongs and get
> a power core IV or Big gun this week to round it out
> the engine work,
> Jetting with a Cobra is known to be problematic, and
> I want mine to run as
> good as Jesse's does =).  He has the older Mega Max
> I think.
> Also might know someone who boxes in swingarms =)
>
> A warning to all of you,  if you ever get a chance
> to ride Jesse's DR you
> will be bitten, and you will succumb to the
> intoxication of the Thumper in
> all it's glory -  this is inescapable,  so be
> forewarned.....
>
> Enjoy the sunshine folks!
>
>
>
>
>
> -
>  to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "[e-mail]"
>  with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>  For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
>  "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>

__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: john miller <[e-mail]>
Subject: Re: (dr) Clutch Replacement Time
Date: 31 Mar 2000 17:46:12 -0800 (PST)

Word on the street is to stay away from the RMX set
up.It engages very hard and can chip gear teeth
off.Stay with the stock set up and expect another 9
yrs out of it that's nothing to sneeze at.

--- Bob Ralston <[e-mail]> wrote:
> Everyone,
>
> After 9 years of faithful service it is time to
> replace the clutch on my trusty 93 DRS.  Should I go
> with the RMX parts (if so which #'s) or the Barnett
> clutch kit?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Ralston
>
> 93 DR350S - FMF Powercore IV SA, Airbox mods, IMS
> 3.5 gal Desert Tank, Fineline Suspension, Applied
> Racing Triple clamps (15mm forward of stock),
> Renthal Jimmy Button Bars, JX Needle/Spring, Dunlop
> K139 (front) & K739 AT Desert (rear), Solid peg
> mounts, UNI filter, Scotts and other Thumper Racing
> products too numerous to mention.
>
> Next step Vortex Airbox and swing arm bracing?
>
> District 37 Desert F110 - The "Four Strokes" Rule
> Class
>

__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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