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From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) gel seat
Date: 31 Jan 2000 23:36:42 -0800
> arne
>
> you are quite intitled to your opinion and that may be your style of
> riding, but i have my bike more or less over land prepared and like to be
> able to travel,throw the tent up, do some trails,move some where new and
do
> it all over. i live in scotland so i am very unlikely to travel more than
> a couple of hundred miles a day, so whats the point of a bigger bikeas the
> dr is well suited to me because of size weight etc. i really wantedsome
> info on the colour of the gel seat just to change the look of the bike as
> i have new graphics etc.
>
> stevie (scotland,only about 250 miles long)
Sounds great... I guess the threads got mixed up. I was responding to the
fellow who was looking for opinions on the Russel Day Long seat for his
DR350.
Cheers,
Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Reasons
Date: 31 Jan 2000 23:42:59 -0800
> You know who you are...
"You talkin' to me"? "You must be, 'cause I don't see anyone else here..."
O.K. Wayne... Since nobody has done anything more than give an opinion
(which is what was asked for), let's see if you can take it as well as you
like to dish it out.
> Some of our
> "self-righteous" riding brothers seem to feel that only their type of
> riding is the proper type of riding. And that the equipment they use is
> the only proper type to use on "their" type of bike.
Obviously you're of this breed eh Wayne? Nobody's been insulting, as far as
I can see. When someone asks for an opinion - especially to a large body of
people - you're bound to get a variety of answers... That's the whole
idea!!! Just because some are different than yours (pray it isn't so...),
that makes them "self-righteous" and "little"??? Give me a break. The
world would be a pretty boring place if we all were of the same opinion.
> They should stop and realize that just as there are differences in
> people, there are differences in their tastes.
Hello!!! Wayne!!! You're contradicting yourself here!!! Or do you agree
that my riding tastes (just) might be different from your's, and that that's
O.K.? You know what? There are others here who are different as well.
> Not everyone has the same
> advantages as they.
That's for sure... After 6 knee operations (one a complete ACL
re-construction), a pelvis that was broken in two places, a back that has
suffered a compression fracture, and numerous broken ribs... I hurt. I know
pain, and the accomodations that have to be made because of it. Yes,
believe it or not, even as one of the "little" people, I've got it figured
out.
> I'm sure they will be the same ones to criticize me when they see the
> way my DR350SE is set up. There is a strange "notch" in the center of my
> seat. The bike has been lowered. I carry a large amount of drinking
> water. And on and on I could go.
Stop feeling sorry for yourself. People feel sorry for me too when they see
my purple hand-grips... but I've learned to live with it.
> They are also the people who won't be able to see the physical problems
> I have.
Nor you, they...
Arne
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: (dr) RE: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit
Date: 01 Feb 2000 17:56:33 -0800
Hi John, I always like to hear a happy customer. thanks again...Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:35 PM
Hi Jesse,
I received the carb kit last night, and I just got through installing
it.
Wow! I can't believe how much better the bike runs. All I was hoping for was
to
get rid of the crapping out over the whoops, so the extra power and
crispness is
pure gravy.
I really apperciate how you set the carb up for me, it runs perfect. The
installation was very easy with no problems. The only thing I changed, was
to
use allen head bolts in the float bowl, so if I ever need to change the main
jet
it will be easier. I also put one of the Vortex stickers on the back of the
air
box so people will be able to get your number if they want one.
Thanks again,
John
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
> Hi John well you should have received the carb kit by now. Keep me posted
> on the results or if you have any questions as I am here to help.
>
> My best regards Jesse
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Nelson [mailto:jfnelson@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 4:27 PM
> To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com
> Subject: Re: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit
>
> Hi Jesse and Happy New Year to you too,
>
> I have a Yoshimura pipe on my bike, it didn't give a big increase in
> power,
> but it sure is pretty and it does sound nice (Not too loud, just nice and
> mellow.).
> I was really happy with the improved throttle response and addition power
> when I
> added your air box. Your Vortex airbox definitely gives you the most bang
> for
> the buck!
> As soon as you're ready, let me know and I'll give you a call and give
> you
> my credit card information. Besides the new carb, it'll be nice to get rid
> of
> that push/pull throttle cable I have now.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> > Hi John, Happy New year to you, the answer to your Questions is yes the
> main
> > jets are the same and If you are having good response with your present
> > jetting it should work well with the dirt carb. I should have all the
> parts
> > to the kit by the end of next week. I will also include the dirt (Hose)
> > manifold in the kit for you. I will let you know when I have everything.
> Do
> > you have an aftermarket Exhaust pipe on your bike?
> >
> > Regards.... Jesse
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Nelson [mailto:jfnelson@earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 11:51 AM
> > To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com
> > Subject: Re: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit
> >
> > Hi Jesse,
> >
> > I have a 1997 DR350SE and last month I bought one of your Vortex
> > airboxes (Which I love!).
> > When I ordered the airbox we discussed the dirt carb and I have a couple
> of
> > questions. Will
> > the jetting be the same (Or close) as the street carb? Are the main jets
> the
> > same for both
> > carbs (Will the main jet in my street carb fit the dirt carb?)?
> >
> > Let me know when you have the kit finished, because I'm ready to
dump
> > that street carb as
> > soon as possible. I will also need a new hose from the carb to the
Vortex
> > airbox. Your price
> > of $330.00 for the kit sounds great.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John
> >
> > "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
> >
> > > I just stocked a bunch of new DR350 dirt carbs and
> > > am putting together a complete kit that includes every thing needed to
> > make
> > > the switch. a spacer to clear the starter and provide a vacuum port
for
> > the
> > > petcock hose. a dirt carb manifold. the carb. two longer socket head
> > > capscrews. and a new single cable throttle assembly and cable. the
> price
> > is
> > > $330.00 . These carbs go for almost $300.00 alone. Just thought I
would
> > let
> > > you know I will have the kit on the website soon....be careful new
years
> > > eve.
> > > Regards ..Jesse
> > >
> >
> > John Nelson
> > Psychodad@cybersnet.com
> > http://www.cybersnet.com
>
> --
> John Nelson
> Psychodad@cybersnet.com
> http://www.cybersnet.com
--
John Nelson
Psychodad@cybersnet.com
http://www.cybersnet.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: (dr) Carb part..
Date: 01 Feb 2000 22:34:26 -0600
Hey Jesse (and DR list),
I have heard of a T-handle type screw that replaces
the mixture screw on the DR carb.. so one can adjust it wothout using a
tiny screwdriver and standing on your head. I really don't need to
adjust it, since I've already done so, but I figured when I go to
Colorado and get into the mountains I may need mess with it.. Do you
know of such a replacement screw? Or where I can buy one? I have a '98
DR650SE. If not, does anyone else on this list know? Thanks much!!
JB
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Carb part..
Date: 01 Feb 2000 23:41:07 -0500
On Tue, 01 Feb 2000 22:34:26 -0600 "Jan Bradley"
<jan.bradley@medtronic.com> writes:
>Hey Jesse (and DR list),
>
> I have heard of a T-handle type screw that replaces
>the mixture screw on the DR carb.. so one can adjust it wothout using
>a
>tiny screwdriver and standing on your head. I really don't need to
>adjust it, since I've already done so, but I figured when I go to
>Colorado and get into the mountains I may need mess with it.. Do you
>know of such a replacement screw? Or where I can buy one? I have a
>'98
>DR650SE. If not, does anyone else on this list know? Thanks much!!
>
>JB
JB,
Scott's performance makes the T-handle Fuel Mixture Screw you seek. You
can order one from our shop, Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia, by calling Andy
or Ronnie at (704) 867-1273. Or, you can order on directly from Scott's.
They have a website with online shopping or you can e-mail owner Scott
Forward at :
scott@scottsperformance.com
Happy trails,
Al
C. Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: MuNcHmAn <hyer0573@students.sou.edu>
Subject: (dr) Introduction
Date: 02 Feb 2000 01:31:45 -0800
Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California
border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem
started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at
higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike. Mike Hyers
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: (dr) oil consumption
Date: 02 Feb 2000 11:49:21
Hello all DR fanatics!!
My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, even
when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that?=
=20
Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time.
What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck?=20
I=B4m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to
another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean
out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is the
case?=20
Is there any point in doing a compression test?
Thanks in advance!
Markus=20
Skellefte=E5, Sweden
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) oil consumption
Date: 02 Feb 2000 15:06:41 +0100
Hello. I have a DR350SE =B499 (european model), and the consumtion of my =
bike
was 0. It has 22.000 km (about 15000 milles), and in this time I added ab=
out
400 cc (I have a 1 liter bottle, and in this time, it has 600 cc). I thin=
k
it=B4s very good. I change the oil every 6000 km (4000 milles) how the ma=
nual
indicate, and never the oil level down of the 3/4 of the full oil range
betweenn oil changes.
I think that a bike with 5000 km doesn=B4t must spend a lot oil (or
nothing)... but if your ride are heavy (lot rpm constantly) it=B4s possib=
le.
But some week ago, in a long and hard excursion, it spent some oil in a =
day
(+- 75cc) (it was about 300-350 km, in on road, speeds of 120-130 km/h
(+-75-85 mph) and rpm about 6500-7500 constantly, and offroad (hard
terrain,), a lot of rpm constantly... the trip was about 10 hours NON STO=
P.
In this excursion, the level down some the top of the level (3/4 of full
level). I think that high rpm constantly (on road principaly) does the oi=
l
consumption up. (every 6000 km, the level down a bit, but in hard
dual-sporting, the level can down if it=B4s a lot of time non stop)
When you use the bike a rpm low-middle (rpm between 3500 to 5500), i thin=
k
that there isn=B4t problem with the consumption, (well, the oil consumpti=
on
could be 0).
I used a mineral oil, but how the bike doesn=B4t spend oil, I change to
syntetic oil (MOTUL 2000 to TENCOSINTESE MOTUL 3100, the oil recomended t=
o
Suzuki 4T bikes in Europe). I had ear that mineral oil does the
monocilindric bikes don=B4t spend too oil, and the syntetic oil , the mon=
o
bikes spend it more easy.
But with this oil MOTUL 3100, the bike is ok. The first is the clutch. Wi=
th
mineral oil (car oil MOTUL2000, specs SH) it doesn=B4t work fine... but w=
ith
the 3100 it works OK, soft, the hot doesn=B4t affect it easily (this oil =
have
additives for the motorbikes clutchs and engine components of 4T bikes...
and it works). I think the bike is fine now. The oil is more expensive (s=
ome
a bit, in 2 liters the difference isn=B4t a lot), but I will use this oil
always. (but if the bike spend oil, the best option is a mineral oil, you=
r
bike, i think, spend less oil... and for refill, it=B4s more cheap)
Bye
(and sorry for my BAD english... )
These are the specification of the MOTUL 3100 (now the new MOTUL 5100)
10W40, 15W50 et 20W40
Technosynth=E8se =AE
The extreme pressure additives necessery for integrated gearboxes protect=
s
gears and brackets, smoothes out gear changes reduces transmission jerkin=
ess
EVERY USE
MOTUL oils are not only for racing, however. The same technical expertise=
is
available to riders who demand high-level performance and reliability fro=
m
the motorcycle they use as their daily vehicle.
A Technosynth=E8se=AE lubricant that is based on synthetic basestocks, wi=
th
advanced lubrication qualities that reduce the wear on moving parts and
improve an engine=92s durability. The extreme-pressure additives necessar=
y for
integrated gearboxes protects gears and brackets, smoothes out gear chang=
es
and reduces transmission jerkiness. Perfectly lubricated, the engine is
protected against dirt clogging by the highly detersive and dispersive
properties of 3100 4T lubricants: every oil change evacuates combustion
residues. This periodic cleansing of the engine keeps the clutch clean fo=
r
smooth, rattle-free operation. 3100 4T Technosynth=E8se=AE 10W40, 15W50, =
20W40.
http://www.motul.com/nouvelle_gamme_moto/4T.htm here you have the new li=
ne
of MOTUL moto 4T.
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo (3000 hints :) )
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Para: dr@lists.xmission.com <dr@lists.xmission.com>
Fecha: mi=E9rcoles 2 de febrero de 2000 12:57
Asunto: (dr) oil consumption
Hello all DR fanatics!!
My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, eve=
n
when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that=
?
Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time.
What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck?
I=B4m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to
another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean
out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is t=
he
case?
Is there any point in doing a compression test?
Thanks in advance!
Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction
Date: 02 Feb 2000 06:52:15 -0800
Hi Mike, this is Jesse I am located in Grants Pass and I can give you a few
tips on the Jetting as well as to the modification to your stock airbox. I
would need to know if you have any exhaust modifications as it would make a
difference in the jetting. My Phone no is 541 472-0835
if you feel like giving me a call. My best regards ..Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of MuNcHmAn
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:32 AM
Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California
border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem
started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at
higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike. Mike Hyers
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) oil consumption
Date: 02 Feb 2000 07:11:46 -0800
HI Markus, there are several factors that could cause this. If the bike was
ran too slow during break-in it could cause the cylinder walls to glaze or
surface harden prior to the rings seating. This would result in
miniscule gaps between the cylinder walls and the rings. With oil seeping
up into this area in larger amounts it could be creating larger amounts of
carbon around the rings inhibiting their ability to move in and out and
follow the cylinder wall, so the oil consumption increases and will continue
to do so until the engine is tore down and checked for wear and any
problems corrected.
Regards....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Markus LIndrgen
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:49 AM
Hello all DR fanatics!!
My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, even
when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that?
Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time.
What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck?
I┤m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to
another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean
out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is the
case?
Is there any point in doing a compression test?
Thanks in advance!
Markus
Skellefteσ, Sweden
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) Break in
Date: 02 Feb 2000 10:38:57 -0500
I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering
about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a
very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during
prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a
while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and
then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in
a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike.
Thanks
Mike
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Break in
Date: 02 Feb 2000 08:42:37 -0800
Hi Mike, I used to be a Suzuki dealer, and the fish oil that was in the
bike was more of a preservative. We would drain that out and refill the
crankcase with castrol gtx 10-40. This was with Suzuki's blessing. As far
as break-in goes two tanks of gas at moderate trail riding, with no lugging
or high revs but varied speeds should do the trick.
Regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike Ballou
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:39 AM
I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering
about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a
very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during
prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a
while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and
then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in
a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike.
Thanks
Mike
-
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) RE: (Dr) Break in
Date: 02 Feb 2000 12:00:00 -0500
Thanks Jesse
That sounds simple enough. I am still trying to decide between the 400E and
the 400S. I have sat on the 400E in the dealer and it seems a little tall
compared with my DR250s. I'm going to the show in NY this weekend to see
both and will decide then. I already traded in my old DR, so I'll need a new
one soon.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:43 AM
Hi Mike, I used to be a Suzuki dealer, and the fish oil that was in the
bike was more of a preservative. We would drain that out and refill the
crankcase with castrol gtx 10-40. This was with Suzuki's blessing. As far
as break-in goes two tanks of gas at moderate trail riding, with no lugging
or high revs but varied speeds should do the trick.
Regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike Ballou
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:39 AM
I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering
about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a
very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during
prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a
while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and
then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in
a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike.
Thanks
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rherrscher@Opto22.com
Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction
Date: 02 Feb 2000 09:40:22 -0800
Hi Mike,
As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals
probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new
smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work
correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for
the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki
turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit in
the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.
One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn
signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this will
be a problem.
Best Regards,
Roger Herrscher
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
<< File: header.txt >>
Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California
border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem
started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at
higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike. Mike Hyers
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction
Date: 02 Feb 2000 15:47:43 -0600
Hey Roger,
Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to
duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what
size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to
be dangerous...
JB
>>> <rherrscher@Opto22.com> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>>
Hi Mike,
As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch
regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals
probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical
device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new
smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work
correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for
the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki
turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit
in
the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to
get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis
Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.
One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn
signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt
the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because
turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this
will
be a problem.
Best Regards,
Roger Herrscher
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
<< File: header.txt >>
Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro.
My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the
California
border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the
problem
started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or
at
higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if
anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please
let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike. Mike Hyers
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rherrscher@Opto22.com
Subject: RE: RE: (dr) Introduction
Date: 02 Feb 2000 14:43:16 -0800
Hi Jan,
You could put a resistor in parallel (not in series) with the lower
wattage light bulbs, but that is alot more work than simply getting
higher wattage light bulbs. You would have to splice into the wiring to
add the resistors.
If you really wanted to do this with resistors, you would have to
measure the current (Amperage) of the original light bulbs while they
were on. Then you would have to do the same for the new smaller light
bulbs. Then you could calculate the size of resistor that you would need
by using the three formulas below:
Original bulb current - smaller bulb current = difference in current.
12 Volts / (difference in current) = resistor value in ohms. Use this
value or the next standard lower value.
144 / (resistor value in ohms) = power rating of resistor in watts. Use
this value or the next standard higher value.
Because motorcycles are subject to a lot of vibration, water, mud, etc.,
all of which are hard on electrical connections, I personally would try
to avoid the resistor method because it requires additional electrical
connections.
Good Luck.
Best Regards,
Roger Herrscher
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:40 PM
<< File: header.txt >>
Hey Roger,
Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to
duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what
size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to
be dangerous...
JB
>>> <rherrscher@Opto22.com> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>>
Hi Mike,
As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch
regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals
probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical
device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new
smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work
correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for
the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki
turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit
in
the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to
get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis
Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.
One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn
signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt
the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because
turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this
will
be a problem.
Best Regards,
Roger Herrscher
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
<< File: header.txt >>
Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro.
My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the
California
border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the
problem
started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or
at
higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if
anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please
let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike. Mike Hyers
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: (dr) 2000 Utah Get-Together
Date: 02 Feb 2000 17:41:33 -0800
The Dual Sport News web site has been updated with the details of the 2000
Utah Get-Together. You can see the rally information page at...
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page54.html
You can also check out my site on the Utah rally at...
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/rally.html
See you there.
Fred
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
Date: 03 Feb 2000 06:47:24 -0700
I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to
the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for
free).
Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining.
So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only
by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim
stack.
Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a
Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR
into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in
relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads
and trails...
Many thanks,
Kurt
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
Date: 03 Feb 2000 06:36:29 -0800
I would go for the gold Kurt,I have installed them and you can select your
valving stack better with the gold valve In my opinion any way. The type
III anodizing is better than what was on there so you are better off
with it.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 5:47 AM
I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and
send them to
the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing
for
free).
Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some
machining.
So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is
adjustable only
by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a
custom shim
stack.
Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a
little like a
Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to
make the DR
into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long
distances in
relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel
roads
and trails...
Many thanks,
Kurt
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
Date: 03 Feb 2000 09:12:00 -0800
> Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a
little like a
> Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control.
If this it the case, go for CONTROL. Control = safety off road.
> What I'm after is to make the DR
> into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long
distances in
> relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore
dirt/gravel roads
> and trails...
It will already do pavement in relative comfort right?
Ask BB if this is a truley measurable, noticable difference... or if it's
more of a theoretical one... If the latter, go with the one that offers the
most suspension improvement/adjustment, at the best price, which is the
easiest to tweak and use... If there is such a thing... LOL
Sorry for confusing matters. =^)
Arne
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Cowger <bryan_cowger@agilent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
Date: 03 Feb 2000 10:40:40 -0800
Kurt,
I don't know the first thing about DR650s, but I'll add my experience
with my DR350 and DR350SE:
The fact that you're considering a cartridge fork emulator means to me
that you have a damping rod fork right now. If that's the case, then I
see only two options:
1) Install a cartridge fork emulator
2) Do the full cartridge conversion
As far as option #1 goes, I would definitely recommend it. I did this
to my '97 SE, and the change was significant.
Yes, you need to remove the fork cap, springs, and the emulator in order
to adjust compression damping, and you generally need to change the oil
to adjust rebound, but the former can quite easily be done with the
forks mounted on the bike.
Gold Valves, I thought, are only for cartridge-type forks. I've
installed them both front and back on my DR350, and am quite pleased
with them. One word: PLUSH!! You end up with a highly-customized
suspension for you, your riding style, abilities, desires, etc.
The installation is simple and straight-forward, something that any one
with modest mechanical abilities can tackle. (I have a write-up on
doing the shock if anyone is interested.)
Like I said, I could be way off on the DR650, but I hope this helps.
Bryan
Sacramento
'96 DR441
Kurt Simpson wrote:
>
> I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to
> the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for
> free).
>
> Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining.
> So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only
> by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim
> stack.
>
> Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a
> Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR
> into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in
> relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads
> and trails...
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Kurt
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: (dr) Seat cover for DR650 (93-94)
Date: 03 Feb 2000 21:19:23 +0100
Where I can found a seat cover for a DR650 year 93-94?
(an URL where they sell it, if it=B4s possible, with a pic of the seat
cover... I tried in baja designs, but there isn=B4t
anything...)
Thank you
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Cowger <bryan_cowger@agilent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator
Date: 03 Feb 2000 13:56:16 -0800
Dan,
I'm fairly certain that a '94 DR350S has damping rods. The cartridge
fork emulator is what you'd want.
The damping rod is attached to the bottom of the fork, so you wouldn't
see it unless you disassembled your forks.
Instructions for installation are included with the emulators; it's a
simple installation as long as you have an impact wrench. Without one,
it's nearly impossible to loosen the damping rod bolt during
disassembly, and even tougher to tighten it again at the end (my
experience, anyway).
You do end up drilling out some of the holes in the damping rod (to
allow the emulator, not the orifice size, to control the damping.)
My recommendation: The emulator and stronger springs up front; Kouba
links and a stiffer spring in the rear. You can size your front springs
on the RaceTech web site. Contact Norm for the latter plus his spring
recommendation.
Bryan
Dan Schewe wrote:
>
> Bryan,
> I have a '94 DR350S - I don't think this bike has forks with dampening rods.
> Do you know if a cartridge fork emulator can be used with this fork?
>
> If I understand correctly, a dampening rod fork can be distinguished by the
> internal rod that screws into the top cap (which mine do not have). If this
> is the case, how is the cartridge fork emulator unit installed? Does the
> dampening rod need to be removed first? I guess none of this applies to my
> bike, but I'm curious.
>
> If emulators can be installed in forks without dampening rods - is there any
> modifications that need to be made to the forks oil passages?
>
> Lastly, I appreciate seeing your write-up for the gold valve for the rear
> shock. Again, this may not apply to my bike as I only have a rebound
> adjuster. I ask this because I'm looking at available shock modifications
> that would help prevent the rear end from packing when riding over washboard
> trails.
>
> Dan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:] On Behalf Of Bryan Cowger
> Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 12:41 PM
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
>
> Kurt,
>
> I don't know the first thing about DR650s, but I'll add my experience
> with my DR350 and DR350SE:
>
> The fact that you're considering a cartridge fork emulator means to me
> that you have a damping rod fork right now. If that's the case, then I
> see only two options:
>
> 1) Install a cartridge fork emulator
> 2) Do the full cartridge conversion
>
> As far as option #1 goes, I would definitely recommend it. I did this
> to my '97 SE, and the change was significant.
>
> Yes, you need to remove the fork cap, springs, and the emulator in order
> to adjust compression damping, and you generally need to change the oil
> to adjust rebound, but the former can quite easily be done with the
> forks mounted on the bike.
>
> Gold Valves, I thought, are only for cartridge-type forks. I've
> installed them both front and back on my DR350, and am quite pleased
> with them. One word: PLUSH!! You end up with a highly-customized
> suspension for you, your riding style, abilities, desires, etc.
>
> The installation is simple and straight-forward, something that any one
> with modest mechanical abilities can tackle. (I have a write-up on
> doing the shock if anyone is interested.)
>
> Like I said, I could be way off on the DR650, but I hope this helps.
>
> Bryan
> Sacramento
> '96 DR441
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: (dr) DR forks for sale
Date: 04 Feb 2000 13:11:02 EST
To all you guys who answered my ad, sorry Chris Bruno in MA was first outof
the gate to answer so he gets em... reason I'm selling them is to help pay
for my RM fork swap project!!
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650SE gel seat
Date: 04 Feb 2000 16:55:39 -0600
Hello DR listers..
I purchased a Gel seat for my 1998 DR650 at my dealer. Well, long
story short, the seat from Suzuki (from Travelcade) is about 1.25 inches
shorter than stock. I returned it to my dealer a couple of days ago
(they weren't super happy, since they special ordered it..) and now I am
waiting for the same cover and stock height foam from Travvelcade. I am
pretty normal size and the shorter seat didn't give me enough
seat-to-peg room. Anyway, what I am getting at is, my dealer now has a
new gel seat that they would like to sell. I told them I would ask on
the list, since they were kind enough to take it back. If you are
thinking of getting a gel seat that is a bit lower, give them a call.
I'm sure they would sell it for much less than retail. It is yellow on
the front edge, black spandura in the middle (most of the seat) and
purple on the back edge. Their name and number is below..ask for Suzuki
parts and ask for Steve.
Dreyer Cycle (Indianapolis, IN)
317.243.2203
Thanks, JB
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) DR650 rear wheel for sale
Date: 04 Feb 2000 15:18:48 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Greetings, all -=20
Having recently swapped a 95 DR650 for a 97, I have an extra rear wheel =
for sale. It will fit a 90-95, and is complete with a newly turned =
disc, relatively new sprocket and new bearing on the carrier. The rim =
is in great shape. Offers?
Also, anyone out there know where to pick up extra wheels for the newer =
(96-) DR650's? I'd love to have a second set for the new bike.
Thanks -=20
Lisa
'97 DR650 "Doc"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Greetings, all - </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Having recently swapped a 95 DR650 for a 97, I have =
an extra=20
rear wheel for sale. It will fit a 90-95, and is complete with a =
newly=20
turned disc, relatively new sprocket and new bearing on the =
carrier. The=20
rim is in great shape. Offers?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Also, anyone out there know where to pick up extra =
wheels for=20
the newer (96-) DR650's? I'd love to have a second set for the new =
bike.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks - </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Lisa</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'97 DR650 "Doc"</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF6F23.2262C4E0--
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From: "The Clouser Family" <clouser@innernet.net>
Subject: (dr) Information Request
Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:08:37 -0500
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 =
weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden Spectro. =
Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using synthetic versus stock?
Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging =
that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone =
had any experience with slime or have knowledge about handling or =
performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.?
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BF6F43.3D5473A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#c8e0d8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am looking for information on =
changing from my=20
stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile =
One or=20
Golden Spectro. Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using =
synthetic=20
versus stock?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also, I have purchased slime and =
slime tubes and=20
read on the packaging that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles =
per=20
hour. Has anyone had any experience with slime or have knowledge =
about=20
handling or performance at speeds above 75 =
m.p.h.?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BF6F43.3D5473A0--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request
Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:45:01 -0600
I use Golden Spectro synthetic blend, but only after I put about 2k
miles on to break it in real good. I think it is about the
best..although, if you ask 20 people their oil opinion, you'll get 20
answers. None are wrong. Pick a name brand motorcycle oil, and you
pretty much can't go wrong.. My 2 cents worth..
JB
>>> "The Clouser Family" <clouser@innernet.net> 02/04/00 06:08PM >>>
I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki
10/40 weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden
Spectro. Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using synthetic versus
stock?
Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging
that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone
had any experience with slime or have knowledge about handling or
performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: RAld277@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request
Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:55:50 EST
I have never tried synthetic myself but every thing I have read (including
this list) has said that synthetic oil is to slick for your clutch to work
properly. In short it may cause it to slip. Hope this helps.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: RAld277@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Fwd: Greens are getting clobbered in their own poll
Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:57:33 EST
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In a message dated 2/4/2000 2:51:49 PM Central Standard Time, Jack 5588
writes:
<< Go vote. This is one of the most hilarious things I have seen. The poll is
at Environmental News Network(ENN). Their own poll is getting HAMMERED, like
80% against their side. I wonder how that happened :)
Also check out the Discussion side. There are some great points being put up
and almost ALL are from dirt bike riders!!
Especially check out "Roadless Thoughts in Montana" in the discussion side
(it's down pretty far...keep looking)
Bill "Watchdog" (ruff ruff) Malec
=================================
From Jack: The hyperlink is below. When you get to the home page, you'll
see the voting box on the right hand side. When you click "No", give it a few
seconds, and it will pop up the current voting numbers.
After you do so, just below the voting box is a link to a threaded
discussion group. Click that box and you'll go to a page where you can
insert your own comments, or you can click the link to go look at other
comments.
<A HREF="http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp">
Click here: Candidates' stances on public lands issues - 2/1/2000 - Features
- Environmental News Network - Your leading news </A>
http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp >>
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Full-name: Jack 5588
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X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 38
Go vote. This is one of the most hilarious things I have seen. The poll is at
Environmental News Network(ENN). Their own poll is getting HAMMERED, like 80%
against their side. I wonder how that happened :)
Also check out the Discussion side. There are some great points being put up
and almost ALL are from dirt bike riders!!
Especially check out "Roadless Thoughts in Montana" in the discussion side
(it's down pretty far...keep looking)
Bill "Watchdog" (ruff ruff) Malec
=================================
From Jack: The hyperlink is below. When you get to the home page, you'll
see the voting box on the right hand side. When you click "No", give it a few
seconds, and it will pop up the current voting numbers.
After you do so, just below the voting box is a link to a threaded discussion
group. Click that box and you'll go to a page where you can insert your own
comments, or you can click the link to go look at other comments.
<A HREF="http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp">C
lick here: Candidates' stances on public lands issues - 2/1/2000 - Features -
Environmental News Network - Your leading news </A>
http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp
--part1_be.1157b88.25ccdd8d_boundary--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request
Date: 04 Feb 2000 21:13:40 -0500
i am running synthetic oil and never had any problems.
stevie
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request
Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:24:02 -0700
Hi, please change your email format when sending to the list to "plain text" only.
Anything else raises havoc with the digest version of the list...thanks
Kurt
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 5:08 PM
I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 weight oil)
to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden Spectro. Can anyone supply me with
pros/cons to using synthetic versus stock?
Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging that it is not
safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone had any experience with
slime or have knowledge about handling or performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.?
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:56:02 -0800
List,
Synthetic oils are wonderful......for the proper application. My wife
is associated very closely with the oil industry, and therefore I have
occasion to talk with sales people, engineers, and higher management in
the oil companies. Every one of them says the same thing, synthetic oils
are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money,
it just isn't necessary. Regular modern oils are quite good, and more
than adequate for the use we give them in motorcycles, but across the
line, use the higher grades of any of them. If you're worried, change it
twice as often as is recommended, you still won't spend as much.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:(dr)information request
Date: 05 Feb 2000 05:49:15 -0800 (PST)
I use Castrol full synthetic with no problems except
in real cold weather the clutch will slip a bit until
the motor is fully warmed up and then its gone.I was
told by my local dealer the Castrol does not use a
certain additive(do not remember the name it was long
though) that promotes slippage that other brands
do.It's 10 bucks a qrt but my bike is worth it.I would
recommend it to anyone.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Doug B <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Date: 05 Feb 2000 07:18:59 -0800
I change the oil in my 94 350SE every 1000 miles.
Doug
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 7:56 PM
List,
Synthetic oils are wonderful......for the proper application. My wife
is associated very closely with the oil industry, and therefore I have
occasion to talk with sales people, engineers, and higher management in
the oil companies. Every one of them says the same thing, synthetic oils
are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money,
it just isn't necessary. Regular modern oils are quite good, and more
than adequate for the use we give them in motorcycles, but across the
line, use the higher grades of any of them. If you're worried, change it
twice as often as is recommended, you still won't spend as much.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Gold Valve misinformation...
Date: 05 Feb 2000 11:04:08 -0700
I want to correct my earlier post. A couple of hours of education as helped me see
the error of my ways.
I wrote earlier about trying to make a choice with my DR650SE forks and which option
to use. My post was in error.
The choice I face is this: to either retain the conventional damping system (with
adjustments for balance and orifice size) or to install a "Gold Valve Cartridge
Emulator" system...where essentially the damping rod is opened up and the work is
done by the installed unit sitting on top of the old rod.
"Gold Valves" are only for cartridge style forks where the Gold Valve replaces the
OEM valving unit.
FWIW, the DR350 forks for my '97 (pre OEM cartridge) can be altered with an emulator
kit or a complete cartridge conversion for a little less than $400 not counting new
springs.
So, I think I have it right and apolgize for the confusion.
So, now the question is whether a non-aggressive rider who wishes to have a mostly
pavement dual sport "adventurer tourer" should work with the existing damping system
or go to the emulator system. This question would apply equally to KLR riders who
have the same choice as the DR650 except that the KLR forks are 4mm less in diameter.
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 05 Feb 2000 21:56:53 +0200
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi
Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened =
clutchcover yet)
If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new =
ones,when changing worn friction plates,
or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my =
stock 5cd27
I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
=
Thanks for the great list
=
Mikko from Finland
=
DR350SE-97
=
yamaha wr250-92
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hi</DIV>
<DIV>Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.</DIV>
<DIV>Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't =
opened=20
clutchcover yet)</DIV>
<DIV>If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the =
new=20
ones,when changing worn friction plates,</DIV>
<DIV>or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer =
than my=20
stock 5cd27</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; Thanks=20
for the great list</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp;=20
Mikko from Finland</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp;=20
DR350SE-97</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; yamaha=20
wr250-92</DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00--
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From: Brian Bucknam <squidlet@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Date: 05 Feb 2000 14:12:41 -0800
Wayne Marsula tells us:
>[...]synthetic oils
>are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
>where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
> It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money...
I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is
the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one
of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too
old,' or 'not good enough'?
But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing?
Commercial vehicles?
Brian
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Date: 05 Feb 2000 17:06:18 -0800
Brian Bucknam wrote:
>
> Wayne Marsula tells us:
> >[...]synthetic oils
> >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
> >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
> > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money...
>
> I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is
> the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one
> of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too
> old,' or 'not good enough'?
>
> But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing?
> Commercial vehicles?
>
> Brian
Brian,
Right on! Those are the two best uses for synthetic oils, some
stationary engines also. But to take this a step further, I use
semi-synthetic oils, engine permitting. It is a real petroleum based
oil, not really a synthetic, but an "enhanced" oil. Find it works quite
well, definitely "looks" cleaner, and feels better when drained than
standard oils. I use Valvoline DuoBlend, other manufacturers also have
similar oils.
Wayne
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com>
Subject: (dr) drz400e
Date: 05 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500
i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on=
a
dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: joseph hart <hrtrun@theramp.net>
Subject: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 05 Feb 2000 21:46:56 -0600
Kurt,
Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on
your KLR.
Thanks in Advance,
Joe
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Date: 05 Feb 2000 19:56:03 -0800 (PST)
--- Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz
> 400e and they put it on a
> dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear
> wheel.
> a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
>
>I'd be hard pressed to buy this one since a stock
DR350 can put up numbers close to that.
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "James Alan Tomkins" <tomkins@epix.net>
Subject: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
Date: 06 Feb 2000 02:01:43 -0500
I just signed up to this list server about a week ago and would like to say
hello to everyone. I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600
miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes
(XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor
oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in
Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me
about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring,
which I usually do. Furthermore, it takes less than 10 minutes do it.
About the same amount of time it takes to finish that first beer after a
long ride. I'll bet the inside of my case looks much better than anyone
running synthetic oil for 1000+ miles. Additionally, the oil cooler on the
650 helps with heat dissipation which I believe further negates the need for
synthetic oils. It's one of the main reasons I didn't buy a 350.
Jim
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From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
Date: 05 Feb 2000 23:28:48 -0800
James Alan Tomkins wrote:
>
> I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
> synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600
> miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes
> (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor
> oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in
> Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me
> about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring,
> which I usually do.
Hi Jim,
Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the
synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also
unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer
than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but it
really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt
to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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From: Tom Myers <TomMyers@cycoactive.com>
Subject: (dr) Nipples and Zerks
Date: 06 Feb 2000 00:03:11 -0800
>This topic was briefly touched upon last year, but nothing substantial ever
>landed in the archives...
>
>Has anyone successfully installed grease nipples in the steering head and
>swing-arms of their .....s? If so we need the details, details, details...
I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the
thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably
due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might
not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart
and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough
action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess
IMHO.
Make sure any seals related to the greased bearing can pass the old grease.
Would be bad to push the seals out at first greasing. Also verify that you
won't be filling other frame tubes with grease thru welding vents.
Suspension bearings are a different story. I've cut into the bearings with
a dremel, drilled passages, and installed zerks on every bike I've owned,
and never have had to replace any suspension bearings, even living in the
wet Northwest. Sometimes there's no room for a zerk, so you just press a
"cone fitting" into the drilled hole.
This is for hardcore craftsmen only. You have to be able to discern the
"no-load" directions of each bearing before grinding holes into them. To
pierce the bearing, use a dremel with the "cutoff wheel". Grind a narrow
slot (very carefully) until the metal becomes paper-thin and discolors.
Don't break thru . Stop grinding, wash away all the grinding dust, and
break out the thin metal with a sharp tool. Drill your passageways, and
remember you have to provide a method for the old grease to exit past the
seals. The pressure might ruin some kinds of seals which are not designed
to let pressure pass. You might have to loosen pivot bolts before
greasing. After pumping the new grease in, just cover the hole with
silicone. It works. Silicone adheres to metal right thru grease, which is
hard to believe until you try it.
Very satisfying to hear the snap crackle pop of new grease pushing out the
old grease (and sometimes water).
Or just disassemble the thing and reassemble with waterproof grease once a
year.
Tom
+-------------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products
| 701 34th Ave
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
|
| Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories
| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc
| e-mail: moto@cycoactive.com
| tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016
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From: "Andrew Spooner" <Andrew@Jasma.demon.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Swingarm
Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:47:31 -0000
I recently took my 93 DR350 to the my local Suzuki garage in the UK. They
have been poor to date, but in the last 6 months they employed a young
mechanic who has been racing DR's in the USA and seems to really know his
bikes. Like a lot of people on the list, I've taken great pleasure in trying
to perfect the original machine with many aftermarket parts and i've really
wanted somebody local to chat things over with and check my mods from time
to time. (problem this time round was a dirty carb and I could kick myself
for not checking it) best thing to come out of it is I've know got someone
local to discuss problems etc with.
I have two reasons for the above comments
1) It's very hard to find somebody near where I live who offers a great deal
of experience and creative ideas. Apart from Taylor Racing in Chippenham,
who are a long way from where I live, I find it very hard to get help in the
UK. If anyone else lives near south west London and wants details of the
garage then please mail me and i'll send you the details.
2) The mechanic in question told me the bikes Swingarm is short and is fine
for road work (for the time being it's used as my winter bike to work,
therefore perfect), if I go offroad he suggest a longer swingarm and
different gearing. Gearing is fully understood and not a problem, know this
may show my inexperience, but what options do I have with the Swingarm?
who's known for producing the best equipment, and what setups do you guys on
the list have. Is it really an issue or will I be just spending money for
nothing? I only ever intended the bike to do recreational off road riding.
Thanks for any advice,
Andrew Spooner
93 DR350
98 CBR900RRW (until someone stole it last weekend - but I live in hope)
60's Triumph TigerCub + AJS
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0
Date: 05 Feb 2000 23:40:45 -0700
> Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on
> your KLR.
Hi Joe, the back is in 200 pieces at the moment...but it should start coming back
together soon. The Corbin is every bit as wide and I think it is going to work great.
I'll let you know.
Kurt
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650 update...
Date: 06 Feb 2000 07:51:43 -0700
Just a couple of notes.
In working through my suspension rework, I contacted Elden Carl who is the number one
KLR knowledge base and a technical writer for Dual Sport News. He had some good
things to say about the DR650 and finally came out and send it would be his bike of
choice if the cockpit accomodated a larger rider. He is 6' 1". I'm 5' 91/2"...
I'm marveling how this bike is put together. Take the front countershaft sprocket for
example. On my KLR I had to use a three foot cheater bar (an air wrench would've been
more elegant) and a 27 mm socket to loosen the countershaft nut to change sprockets.
On the DR it is a very simple and clever design.
Remove three bolts (10mm head) now take the lock plate and rotate it just a few
degrees clockwise and remove it. Now take off the sprocket. What you now see is only
the shaft coming out of the engine. In other words, the shaft has a slot in it for
the lock plate to rotate and then the sprocket becomes the "back plate" for its own
attachment. I'm certain that is clear as mud but it is very clever and a delight. I
can now carry a 14T sprocket with me while running a 16T front and be able to change
the gearing on arrival in less than a 1/2 hour with the eccentric chain adjusters....
I took delivery of the Trapp IDS 2 can and mid-pipe. The construction seems improved
since my list IDS 1. The Trapp label is now riveted instead of a label that everyone
found peeled off leaving a mess behind. It looks like I'll save 5-7 lbs over the OEM.
I'm very tempted to try the Two Brothers setup...if I can talk them into doing an
evaluation for Dual Sport News I'm all set (g)...
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) List notes...
Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:02:34 -0700
The dr list has grown steadily in the past year and is now standing at 225. I
continue to expect it to grow. In the past weeks we've expanded from the original
dr350 list to all DR's. I think it is working fine and advise all listers to put a
bike identifier in all caps in the subject line so filters can be used. So:
"DR650" "DR350" "DR200" . The recent thread on synthetics is an example of
"crossover" info that is helpful to everyone.
As some of you know, I'm the editor of Dual Sport News. I took it over in partnership
with Ron LaMantia of Redondo Beach, CA a few months ago after Gino Pokluda decided to
take a breather. Ron and I are working hard to expand the subscription base by
ensuring that it is an "all-brands" publication and attempting to improve its format.
In the "real" world I work in the not-for-profit arena developing relationships with
volunteers. It is natural for me to start something and then hand it off and let
others gain the thrill of ownership and leadership. So, with this long message I'm
very pleased to announce that Mike Brock, dual sport and Suzuki DR enthusiast has
volunteered to take over as moderator of the DR list.
Mike and I have corresponded on a variety of other lists and he recently started a
Suzuki dual sport list at another location. I asked him if he would like to combine
efforts and he said yes so he's bringing his subscribers over and taking over the
helm so I can get back to work editing DSN.
I'll continue to be an active participant on the list but Mike will be the new
guiding force. I'll let him introduce himself.
Thanks for your help in getting the DR list off to a good start and please give Mike
the same courtesy and cooperation you gave to me...
Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News
www.dualsport.org
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 update...
Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:04:44 -0700
> Remove three bolts (10mm head) now take the lock plate and rotate it just a >few
degrees clockwise and remove it. Now take off the sprocket. What you >now see is only
oops should've been counterclockwise...
Kurt
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From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: (dr) DR
Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:08:18 -0800
Kurt,
> Mike and I have corresponded on a variety of other lists and he recently started a
> Suzuki dual sport list at another location. I asked him if he would like to combine
> efforts and he said yes so he's bringing his subscribers over and taking over the
> helm so I can get back to work editing DSN.
>
Thanks for all your hard work on the DR List. I hope that everyone on
the list will (continue) to support your other endeavor, Dual Sport
News. It is an important publication to our sport, and very informative.
Best of luck to you in that pursuit, and welcome aboard to Mike Brock.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "jnugent" <2jnugent@prodigy.net>
Subject: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Date: 06 Feb 2000 12:04:46 -0500
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello,
I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I =
have tried all
the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know =
were I
could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was =
thinking
about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I =
have
a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit =
from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
=20
Thanks, Jim Nugent
------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have come to find out that the fmf =
mega max has=20
been discontinued. I have tried all</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the mail order places but no one has =
any left in=20
stock. Does anyone know were I</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>could find one? Or does anyone know of =
a suitable=20
replacement? I was thinking</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have =
any=20
experience with this pipe? I have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>a 97 350 se and am going to modify the =
stock box=20
and install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions would be=20
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Thanks, Jim Nugent</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:37:06 -0800
This is news to me. I know FMF is making the Megamax 2 but I think the
regular Megamax is still available. Check with me tomorrow and I will see
if I can find you one.
I have sold a bunch of the ST IDS 2 for the KLR650 and XR650L. They are a
decent pipe for the money. There are many different pipes for your bike out
there on the aftermarket. Depending on what you want out of your pipe will
determine which pipe is right for you.
Fred Hink
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
Arrowhead Motorsports
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148
Moab, Utah
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:04 AM
Hello,
I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I have
tried all
the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know
were I
could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was
thinking
about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I have
a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit from
Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim Nugent
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:52:48 -0800
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:04 AM
>Hello,
>I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued.
I just got a new Tucker Rocky catalog and they list the Megamax2 for only
certain bikes and the DR is not one of them. They do list a new header pipe
that is suppose to increase HP and lower sound, called the "Powerbomb". FMF
is making a Powercore IV and Powercore IV 2, to replace the Megamax. It
looks pretty trick. and I am sure FMF knows their business and has improved
their exhaust systems.
Fred
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Date: 06 Feb 2000 01:37:28 -0500
On Sat, 5 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500 Steven McGarry
<steviemc@compuserve.com> writes:
>
>
>
>
>i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it
>ona
>dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
>a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
Manufacturers measure horsepower at the crankshaft. It a much higher
rating without the load of the clutch, transmission, chain and sprokets.
When comparing different bikes, make sure you're comparing apples to
apples.
Al Roof
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Date: 06 Feb 2000 19:23:09 -0500
even from crank to rear wheel you would not lose 15bhp, would you ?
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From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) List notes...
Date: 06 Feb 2000 21:34:49 -0700
Mighty strong work, Kurt. Thanks for both this list, and for Dual Sport
News, the only publication devoted to dual sport motorcycling that I know
of. TW
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Rich Anderson"<richand@jps.net>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 07 Feb 2000 05:18:23 GMT
James Alan Tomkins wrote:
I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600
miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes
(XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor
oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in
Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs
me
about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring,
which I usually do.
Hi Jim,
Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the
synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also
unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer
than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but
it
really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt
to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40 natural
motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3000
miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed something
that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, or performed
other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an oil
change.
Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on things
that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and preventative
procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty.
Rich Anderson
Truckee, CA
1998 DR 350
1985 XL 350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 07 Feb 2000 09:10:23 -0000
Hi Mikko,
I just changed my clutch drive plates yesterday, after 35000 miles. The
driven plates are, as you say, steel and did not need changing.
Cheers!
Andy
DR360 SES, Suffolk, England
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
>
> Hi
> Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
> Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened
> clutchcover yet)
> If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new
> ones,when changing worn friction plates,
> or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
>
> How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my
> stock 5cd27
>
> I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
>
>
> Thanks for the great list
>
>
> Mikko from Finland
>
> DR350SE-97
>
> yamaha wr250-92
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From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus)
Subject: (dr) Re: Kurt
Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:27:58 -0600
Kurt,
Thanks for everything.. Keep up the good work Amigo.
Best Regards & Happy Trails
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
Y2KLR650 @ 2200 sMiles
97 R11RA (Amgia) @ 11K Miles
So Many Roads, So Little Time
http://members.deltech.net/aches/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:14:11 -0800 (PST)
--- jnugent <2jnugent@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Hello,
> I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has
> been discontinued. I have tried all
> the mail order places but no one has any left in
> stock. Does anyone know were I
> could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable
> replacement? I was thinking
> about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any
> experience with this pipe? I have
> a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and
> install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Jim
> Nugent
>
>Jim I to went through this same road as you.FMF
discontinued the Megamax2 even when I wanted it back
in Oct of 99.I went with the Powercore4 and am very
pleased with it.My freind has the Megamax2 on his DR
and I think my muffler flows a bit better than his.The
downfall to the Megamax is in order to get good
performance out of it you need to place washers
between the discs to open up the spacing.This of
course produces more noise.His bike is every bit as
loud as mine when we are both on the bikes hard.At
idle his is a bit quieter.FMF now offers a new
improved version of my muffler the Powercore4-2.I got
the SA version(spark arrestor) to avoid any fines.If
you want maximum power out of a disc system it will be
as loud as a non disc system anyway.I plan on getting
the powerbomb header pipe in the spring.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Cowger <bryan_cowger@agilent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Nipples and Zerks
Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:28:27 -0800
>
> I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the
> thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably
> due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might
> not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart
> and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough
> action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess
> IMHO.
I definitely agree with the above comments.
Note that some DRS models have a steering lock -- this feature means
that there's a hole in the headstock shaft. The more grease you zerk
into the headstock, the more flows through that hole and then down onto
the fender... :(
FYI,
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: WHinman22@aol.com
Subject: (dr) GPS route logs
Date: 07 Feb 2000 12:41:07 EST
A friend and I would like to ride the Government Road, aka The Mojave Road,
from Barstow, CA to the Colorado River. I have a very good book that goes
from the Colorado to Barstow. The markers along the trail are rock cairns.
These markers are placed on the West side of intersections. So if you are
riding from the other direction you might have to make a choice as to which
way to go. That is a decision I don't want to make 75 miles from nowhere.
I hope someone who has made the ride has saved a route log on their GPS. If
I could get their log I could download it to my Garmin III and be safe.
Thanks
Wayne Hinman
whinman22@aol.com
97 DR650
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Colin Parkes" <colinp@rkes.totalserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Date: 06 Feb 2000 23:45:57 +0300
In TBM ???
I saw that too, they were a little disappointed but still really liked it...
Seems to have bucket loads of torque.......
later
Col.
-----Original Message-----
i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on a
dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: stevengilleland@webtv.net (Steven Gilleland)
Subject: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS
Date: 07 Feb 2000 15:18:36 -0500 (EST)
Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bieffe
3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave up
and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know
if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good
choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and the
price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steven Gilleland
90' DR350S
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:26:55 +0200
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks Andy for answering.
As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so =
i'm interested in knowing,
is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have =
you changed piston,valves etc...
If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer
and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot engine)
Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry sump =
lubricated,(mine engine stock)
unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)
I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big =
difference in bottoming resistance.
Keep =
writing
Mikko =
Vimpari
DR350SE-97
yamaha =
wr250-92
=20
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Thanks Andy for answering.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, =
so i'm=20
interested in knowing,</DIV>
<DIV>is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, =
have you=20
changed piston,valves etc...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last =
summer</DIV>
<DIV>and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot=20
engine)</DIV>
<DIV>Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 =
is dry=20
sump lubricated,(mine engine stock)</DIV>
<DIV>unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)</DIV>
<DIV>I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big =
difference in=20
bottoming resistance.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
Keep=20
writing</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Mikko Vimpari</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
DR350SE-97</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
yamaha wr250-92</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =20
</DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:56:42 +0100
>and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously
???????=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF The manual of my DR350SE =B499 indicates =
that the change oils
are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn=B4t indicate anything =
about
syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the
temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each
6000 km it=B4s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I thi=
nk
that=B4s a precaution of the factory.
http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can l=
ook
the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES
Bye
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Rich Anderson <richand@jps.net>
Para: dr@lists.xmission.com <dr@lists.xmission.com>
Fecha: lunes 7 de febrero de 2000 6:19
Asunto: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
>Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
>
>James Alan Tomkins wrote:
>
> I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
> synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every
500-600
>
> miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previou=
s
bikes
>
> (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W4=
0
motor
>
> oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here=
in
>
> Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only
costs
>me
> about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter a=
nd
O-ring,
>
> which I usually do.
>
> Hi Jim,
> Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on
the
>
> synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently i=
s
also
>
> unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much long=
er
> than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, =
but
>it
> really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not
hurt
>
> to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you nee=
d
to.
>
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
>
>
>I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40
natural
>motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3=
000
>miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed
something
>that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, =
or
performed
>other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an =
oil
>change.
>Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on
things
>that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and
preventative
>procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty.
>
>Rich Anderson
>Truckee, CA
>1998 DR 350
>1985 XL 350
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug Grosjean" <douggrosjean@wcnet.org>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 07 Feb 2000 16:47:06 -0500
Mikko wrote about Andy's DR-350 with 35k miles:
<< As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so
i'm interested in knowing, is your engine stock,is there anything broken in
your dr engine, have you changed piston,valves etc... >>
Mikko,
If you're curious about high mile DR-350's, I've got a 1993 with 41k miles.
The engine is completetly stock, and hasn't been apart. The only mods I've
done are to add a Clarke plastic tank, aluminum bars, barkbusters, Acerbis
handguards, and Hotgrips with a Heat-troller controller velcroed to the RH
side of the instrument cluster.
Non-maintencance work has been to replace cables a couple times, and the RH
cover gasket failed in the kickstart shaft area at around 37k miles.
Close inspection revealed that the outer cover supports the kickstart
lever, and that as you kick the bike the cover in that area is
deflecting - IOW, I don't think it a coincidence that the cover began to
leak in the area around the kickstart shaft.
The engine is tired, but not loose or rattly - just seems a bit down on
power. The clutch seems to be slipping just a tad now as well.
Most of it's life has been spent commuting, via the Interstate, running 6k
rpm (or so) down the Ohio Turnpike. The first year that I owned it, I
cover 22k miles. After that, miles per year were a bit more normal.
It doesn't start so easy currently, so maybe it's getting to be time for
some work.
Hope somebody finds that all to be of interest - though I realize that
there are singles out there with more miles, they seem rare.
Best,
Doug Grosjean
Gr.8 Designs
Pemberville, Ohio
http://www.gr8designs.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 07 Feb 2000 15:52:04 -0800
Pablo wrote:
>
> >and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously
>
> ???????┐┐┐┐┐┐┐┐ The manual of my DR350SE ┤99 indicates that the change oils
> are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn┤t indicate anything about
> syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the
> temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each
> 6000 km it┤s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I think
> that┤s a precaution of the factory.
>
> http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can look
> the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES
>
> Bye
>
Pablo,
I wouldn't buy that theory. Manufacturers do a lot of testing to
determine how long for oil change intervals. While it doesn't hurt to
change it sooner, to DOUBLE it could be pretty bad. Oils have a
"lifetime", determined by the type of engine, use of engine, type of
riding area, and others. There's little doubt that you would be damaging
your engine by doing as you suggest.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "James Alan Tomkins" <tomkins@epix.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 07 Feb 2000 19:04:47 -0500
Pablo:
I have never followed what a manual says on any vehicle, two or four whee=
ls.
Call me cynical, but I believe most manufacturers want to sell you a new
vehicle as often as they can. That's when they make the most money.
Aftermarket parts have killed a lucrative business they use to have,
especially for bikes. How many of us buy expensive parts from the
manufacturer? Only when absolutely necessary. I'm not saying that they
publish misleading information; however, I think that most published
maintenance intervals are an upper limit. I know from experience that
almost everyone I speak with that has good running vehicles normally has =
at
least one thing in common. They change their oil as well as perform othe=
r
routine maintenance regularly, usually much more often than any manual
suggests. Is it a coincidence that they have good running vehicles? I
don't think so. But you can be your own judge.
Jim Tomkins
Harrisburg, PA
1998 DR650SEW
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Pablo
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 4:57 PM
>and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously
???????=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF The manual of my DR350SE =B499 indicates =
that the change oils
are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn=B4t indicate anything =
about
syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the
temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each
6000 km it=B4s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I thi=
nk
that=B4s a precaution of the factory.
http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can l=
ook
the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES
Bye
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Rich Anderson <richand@jps.net>
Para: dr@lists.xmission.com <dr@lists.xmission.com>
Fecha: lunes 7 de febrero de 2000 6:19
Asunto: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
>Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
>
>James Alan Tomkins wrote:
>
> I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
> synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every
500-600
>
> miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previou=
s
bikes
>
> (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W4=
0
motor
>
> oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here=
in
>
> Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only
costs
>me
> about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter a=
nd
O-ring,
>
> which I usually do.
>
> Hi Jim,
> Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on
the
>
> synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently i=
s
also
>
> unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much long=
er
> than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, =
but
>it
> really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not
hurt
>
> to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you nee=
d
to.
>
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
>
>
>I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40
natural
>motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3=
000
>miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed
something
>that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, =
or
performed
>other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an =
oil
>change.
>Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on
things
>that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and
preventative
>procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty.
>
>Rich Anderson
>Truckee, CA
>1998 DR 350
>1985 XL 350
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 08 Feb 2000 02:17:22 +0100
I believe that the oil changes (and other maintance) indicate in the manu=
al
is the appropiate in a general use for each bike (in this case, dual-spor=
t,
could be 60 off, 40 on)... well, general no, i think it=B4s hard use (the=
y
have a hard manteance for a heavy or soft use of the bike... if it=B4s us=
e is
soft, it=B4s OK... and if it=B4s hard... its ok too)
I don=B4t believe that Suzuki (or other factory) can offer, in Spain, for
example, TWO YEARS (no km limit) of TOTAL GUARANTEE in the Suzuki Bikes
(other, for example, aprilia, has THREE).
The only thing that you have to do, is the maintance indicate for a offic=
ial
shop Suzuki. Doing this, your bike don=B4t must stop or broke (accidents,
normal things, how chain, brakes... don=B4t included, of course) in TWO y=
ears
(I have 1 year and 22000 km...). I think that they say to do a maintance =
in
the manual, always less hard that the bike can support working OK. If oil
changes each 6000 km is a lot, the bike could have problem... but in TWO
years (no milleage limit)... this problem is SUZUKI GUARANTEE problem.
And more... in Spain (i don=B4t know how Suzuki works in other countries)=
, the
official guarantee is 2 years no limit km, but if you do the indicate
maintance in the Dealer Suzuki (in guarantee, 2 years, is OBLIGATORY to c=
an
use the guarantee), they haven=B4t problem in repair some anormal broke o=
r
problem in the bike (past the 2 years, but with the correct maintance)
(this is a big thing, but the dealer is expensive in the maintance... is =
the
prize to pay for a good Guarantee)
Well... is this a personal opinion.
(about oil changes, for example, BMW F650 has it each 10.000 km, and anyb=
ody
do it in less time in Spain, because if BMW say that the correct oil chan=
ge
and mainteance is that, it=B4s OK, and it=B4s the best for the bike.)
Ok, if you do the oil change each 5000 km, the bike is OK too (isn=B4t
problem... problem is do it each 20,000 km), of course, but it isn=B4t
necessary.
If you have a problem with the DR in guarantee period, and you do the oil
changes each 3000 km, you haven=B4t problem with the guarantee (you spend=
some
money more)... but if you do the oil changes each 9000, you can problems
(Suzuki guarantee that, for example, DR350SEX =B499 works correctly with =
oil
changes each 6000 km... it=B4s possible that it works correctly with it e=
ach
9000 or 10000 km... but it isn=B4t guarantee...I think that in the test o=
f
Suzuki, the bikes with changes each 9000 km, for example, some bike have
some problem... and they cannot say that it works properly ALWAYS... beca=
use
if it is that, Suzuki will recomend he oil changes each 9000km (it would=
be
a big thing, good publicity)
Bye (and sorry for my BAD english)
HEY LOOK HERE
Go to www.acerbis.com and locate the section NEED AN ACERBIS LOGO (down o=
f
the main page). Select PClogo and look.
Is it hacked? is a joke? is it OK?
(my english isn=B4t good, and i don=B4t undertand some things... but the =
pic is
very extrange)
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
=2E
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes
Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:54:48 EST
In a message dated 02/07/2000 8:18:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Dual-Sport@ctv.es writes:
<< www.acerbis.com >>
Hey- it looks like their webmaster didn't mean to put that link up... I'm
sure Acerbis doesn't know about it either...
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 08 Feb 2000 09:14:11 -0000
Hi Mikko.
The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st thing =
I've
had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear =
lever
oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a Cycle =
Gear
airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) and =
run a
147 main jet.
I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine =
spends
most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm.
I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know how =
it
goes!
Cheers
Andy=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>=20
> Thanks Andy for answering.
> =20
> As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, =
so i'm
> interested in knowing,
> is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have =
you
> changed piston,valves etc...
> =20
> If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer
> and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot =
engine)
> Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry =
sump
> lubricated,(mine engine stock)
> unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)
> I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big =
difference in
> bottoming resistance.
> =20
> =20
> Keep =
writing
> =20
> Mikko
> Vimpari
> =
DR350SE-97
> yamaha
> wr250-92
> =20
> =20
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: (dr) longer gear shifter(dr350)
Date: 08 Feb 2000 07:52:08 -0600
Hi all, does anybody know where I can order a longer gear shifter for my
DR350X (dirt only). I'm constantly knocking it out of gear with the end of
my boot. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Chris
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 08 Feb 2000 14:13:05 -0000
Hi Jesse.
I would be very interested in a price for the Thumper Racing kit, but I
haven't found an outlet over here so I'd get stung for shipping and a
punitive import duty which, more or less, has doubled the cost of gear =
I've
had from White Bros. There's an outfit over here, TTS Performance
Engineering (http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/tts.shtml), who do a 440 =
kit.
The guy from the local Suzuki dealer has just fitted one to his DR, so =
I'm
watching how long it lasts with great interest!
If I win the lottery I'll go Thumper though. No vibration from a 10mm
oversize piston is amazing!
As regards the plug for your airbox, I'm delighted with mine and would
recommend it as a first on the 'must have' list for any DR owner! =
Keep up
the good work.
Cheers
Andy
DR350SES
Rainy Suffolk
England
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net]
> Sent: 08 February 2000 13:50
> To: andy.doyle
> Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>=20
> Hi Andy, Thanks for the tip in your message. Thumper Racing now =
makes an
> first oversize piston for their 435cc kit which would bring it up to
> 441cc.
> I have used their kits exclusively for the past 6 years and have not =
had
> any
> bad experiences at all, they have Wiseco special build their pistons =
so
> they
> are lighter weight so you get no vibration with almost an almost 10 =
mm
> oversize from stock. I don't know if you have a source over there or =
not.
> I
> could get this kit for you if you don't, just let me Know if I can be =
of
> any
> help.
>=20
> my best regards Jesse
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com =
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
> Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 1:14 AM
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>=20
>=20
> Hi Mikko.
>=20
> The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st =
thing
> I've
> had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear =
lever
> oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a =
Cycle
> Gear
> airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) =
and run
> a
> 147 main jet.
> I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine
> spends
> most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm.
>=20
> I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know =
how it
> goes!
>=20
> Cheers
>=20
> Andy
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> > Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27
> > To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> > Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage
> >
> > Thanks Andy for answering.
> >
> > As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, =
so
> i'm
> > interested in knowing,
> > is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, =
have
> you
> > changed piston,valves etc...
> >
> > If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer
> > and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot =
engine)
> > Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry =
sump
> > lubricated,(mine engine stock)
> > unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)
> > I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big =
difference
> in
> > bottoming resistance.
> >
> >
> > Keep
> writing
> >
> > Mikko
> > Vimpari
> > =
DR350SE-97
> > =
yamaha
> > wr250-92
> >
> >
>=20
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 08 Feb 2000 06:47:34 -0800
Hi Andy, The Kit goes for $250.00 this is the piston, rings, pin,sleeve and
gaskets. This will do the whole works. at least you know what you are
looking at.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:13 AM
Hi Jesse.
I would be very interested in a price for the Thumper Racing kit, but I
haven't found an outlet over here so I'd get stung for shipping and a
punitive import duty which, more or less, has doubled the cost of gear I've
had from White Bros. There's an outfit over here, TTS Performance
Engineering (http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/tts.shtml), who do a 440 kit.
The guy from the local Suzuki dealer has just fitted one to his DR, so I'm
watching how long it lasts with great interest!
If I win the lottery I'll go Thumper though. No vibration from a 10mm
oversize piston is amazing!
As regards the plug for your airbox, I'm delighted with mine and would
recommend it as a first on the 'must have' list for any DR owner! Keep up
the good work.
Cheers
Andy
DR350SES
Rainy Suffolk
England
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net]
> Sent: 08 February 2000 13:50
> To: andy.doyle
> Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>
> Hi Andy, Thanks for the tip in your message. Thumper Racing now makes an
> first oversize piston for their 435cc kit which would bring it up to
> 441cc.
> I have used their kits exclusively for the past 6 years and have not had
> any
> bad experiences at all, they have Wiseco special build their pistons so
> they
> are lighter weight so you get no vibration with almost an almost 10 mm
> oversize from stock. I don't know if you have a source over there or not.
> I
> could get this kit for you if you don't, just let me Know if I can be of
> any
> help.
>
> my best regards Jesse
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
> Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 1:14 AM
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>
>
> Hi Mikko.
>
> The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st thing
> I've
> had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear lever
> oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a Cycle
> Gear
> airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) and run
> a
> 147 main jet.
> I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine
> spends
> most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm.
>
> I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know how it
> goes!
>
> Cheers
>
> Andy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> > Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27
> > To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> > Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage
> >
> > Thanks Andy for answering.
> >
> > As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so
> i'm
> > interested in knowing,
> > is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have
> you
> > changed piston,valves etc...
> >
> > If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer
> > and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot engine)
> > Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry sump
> > lubricated,(mine engine stock)
> > unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)
> > I bought also a used ÷hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big difference
> in
> > bottoming resistance.
> >
> >
> > Keep
> writing
> >
> > Mikko
> > Vimpari
> > DR350SE-97
> > yamaha
> > wr250-92
> >
> >
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Doug Grosjean" <douggrosjean@wcnet.org>
Subject: (dr) Daytona Schedule / Links
Date: 08 Feb 2000 11:06:59 -0500
List(s),
Like a lot of you, I'm headed for Daytona / Bike Week,
staying at Bulow, etc. I've put my schedule up on my
company website, go to:
http://www.gr8designs.com/
Click on "Daytona Schedule / Links"
Also there, I put up links that I'd culled from various
mailing lists and posts, figured that since I had a website
(and the URL's) it might be helpful to people to have access
to a bunch of links / data in one location. About a
half-dozen links so far, but each link has a ton of data in
it.
Note that the links that I've got have little or nothing to
do with the Harley events, point being that a person with a
BMW, Wing, Concours, dirt-bike, etc could go there and have
a great time.
Best,
Doug Grosjean
Gr.8 Designs
Pemberville, Ohio
http://www.gr8designs.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Date: 08 Feb 2000 11:51:52 -0500
Hi,
Here's a couple questions I hope you all can help me with.
1. I bought some new fork springs. The springs came with a piece
of PVC pipe to set the preload. A paper also came that tells how
much preload to use (how big of a spacer). The paper doesn't list
my year: 1998 DR350SE.
Do I need to use a preload spacer? Or does that just apply to
older, non-cartridge-type forks?
2. I'm going to change my first tire soon. I'm considering getting
the Ty Davis tire thing that holds your tire while changing.
It's worth it to me to spend some money upfront to make the job
easier - as I foresee many tire changes down the road.
Has anyone used that? Is it worth $100? How many spoons should
I get?
Much appreciated.
Mark Sims
Atlanta, GA
'98 DR350SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:50:03 -0000
Hi John,
I've been talking to Jesse about the kit, and he does a very good =
price, but
I have to add shipping and import duty for anything from the States. A =
$150
oversize front disk from White Bros cost me =A3200 ($300) to get =
here....loses
the bargain basement appeal a bit!
There's a Brit company making a similar set-up that I'm looking at, but
maybe I should check out the air bases round here to see if there's any
biking GIs with a Thumper Racing Big Bore kit sized bag!
I hope to give DRZs a run for their money....but even if they run away =
from
me I'll be a lot more comfortable in the saddle than they will!
Cheers!
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: john miller [SMTP:weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com]
> Sent: 08 February 2000 16:34
> To: andy.doyle@bt.com
> Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage
>=20
>=20
> > =20
> > >Hey Andy just thought I would give you a shout on
> the big bore.Do yourself a BIG favor and talk to Jesse
> Kientz about what kit to go with.He told me the 440
> was not the best option but instead go with the 435.He
> will give good reasons for it and facts to back it
> up.He has experience with our motors and knows them
> inside and out.From the latest posts on the list it
> looks like our bikes with a big bore 435 kit should
> handle the DRZ400 eh?Later on t =20
> =20
> > =20
> >=20
> > -
> > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> > "majordomo@xmission.com"
> > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> > For information on digests or retrieving files and
> > old messages send
> > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> > your message.
> >=20
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: njkouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:42:46 -0700
Mark,
Not knowing the type or length of your new springs, compare their length
to the OEM ones to insure they are not too long. If they are longer than
the stock ones, I suspect they are not compatable on your 98 model. Most
sales persons and a lot of the catalogs are not aware of the fork change
to the 98 and 99 DR350SE models. If they are shorter than the stock
springs then you will have to use the pvc spacer after you cut it to the
proper length. If the new springs are around .44kg's per mm, (and should
be) only preload them the minimum, and not more than 3/8 inch for the
best ride. If you preload them too much the ride will become very harsh
on the small bumps. After installing the new springs, you will probably
need to soften the compression a few clicks (bottom adjuster) and go a
few harder on the rebound clicker (top adjuster).
Have not used the Ty Davis tire changer myself, but have watched him use
it. He makes it work real well. I would say ol two spoons is enough.
Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
Mark Sims wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Here's a couple questions I hope you all can help me with.
>
> 1. I bought some new fork springs. The springs came with a piece
> of PVC pipe to set the preload. A paper also came that tells how
> much preload to use (how big of a spacer). The paper doesn't list
> my year: 1998 DR350SE.
>
> Do I need to use a preload spacer? Or does that just apply to
> older, non-cartridge-type forks?
>
> 2. I'm going to change my first tire soon. I'm considering getting
> the Ty Davis tire thing that holds your tire while changing.
> It's worth it to me to spend some money upfront to make the job
> easier - as I foresee many tire changes down the road.
>
> Has anyone used that? Is it worth $100? How many spoons should
> I get?
>
> Much appreciated.
>
> Mark Sims
> Atlanta, GA
> '98 DR350SE
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike A Hyers <hyer0573@students.sou.edu>
Subject: Re: (dr) longer gear shifter(dr350)
Date: 08 Feb 2000 09:49:48 -0800
Chris, I got a longer shifter for my S model from Baja Designs. They
have many different sizes and offsets. I'm sure they can hook you up.
Their website is http://www.bajadesigns.com , or if you want to call
their number is 858-578-9111. They dont list the specific models that
it fits on their website but when I called they set me up. If they cant
do it than IMS makes one for the dirt model as well.
http://www.imsproducts.com/ Good luck, mike
Just a sidenote, I would reccomend calling baja designs first I am still
waitng on a part I ordered from IMS a month ago.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Ooops...I'm back...
Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:50:24 -0700
I just received an email from Mike Brock. Mike has family members and loved ones who have
been diagnosed with some serious illness and will not be able to take over moderating the
dr list. My prayers are with he and his family.
So....at least for the time being, I'm baaacck...
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Cowger <bryan_cowger@agilent.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:02:16 -0800
> Have not used the Ty Davis tire changer myself, but have watched him use
> it. He makes it work real well. I would say ol two spoons is enough.
Another item that doesn't often get mentioned are at least a couple
plastic rim protectors. It's amazing how soft the aluminum rims are to
the steel tools.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Swamprider" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Daytona
Date: 08 Feb 2000 13:11:16 -0500
For those of you planning on going to Daytona, or those of you wishing you
could go to Daytona, get a little taste of Florida dual sporting at this
website
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
Including pictures from a previous Daytona dual sport along with other dual
sport rides in Florida and the South Eastern US. Have fun!
Robert Frey
Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders
Southern Dual Sporter Newsletter
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:34:50 -0800
Mark and Norm,
I didn't see where you said what kind of springs you bought.
Progressive Suspension lists with their spring a spacer of 1" for the
1998 model. I just checked it myself, as I ordered springs for my 98.
FWIW,
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350SE rear wheel
Date: 08 Feb 2000 22:30:51 +0200
Thanks for replying Andy and Doug.
Here I go again,questions,please,don't get angry guys
From '97-'99 350SE has no more cushioned-hub rear wheel(at least here in
Finland)
So,did Suzuki calculate that350SE is too powerless to do any damage to it's
transmission,
when riding on asphalt roads?(what would happen to tranny on asphalt,if my
bike was been heavily hopped up?)
Does anyone know, is that DRZ400 fork actually twin-chamber fork, like past
RM's had.
Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee.
Any comments
welcome
Mikko from snowy
Finland
'97 350SEV
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS
Date: 08 Feb 2000 13:47:06 -0700
> Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bieffe
> 3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave up
> and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know
> if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good
> choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and the
> price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Steven, I haven't owned a Bieffe, I have heard of a few people that liked theirs. At the
other end of the price spectrum is the Arai Dual Sport which ends up close to or a little
over $300...they were discontinued but MAW has some in stock...I have one and like it.
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE rear wheel
Date: 08 Feb 2000 23:18:56 +0100
>
>Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee.
>
Guau.... you have lucky :). 3 years... 2 years it=B4s Ok, but 3 is PERFEC=
T.
the 3 years guarantee should be in all the countries. your you can be ca=
lm
during 3 years, making the maintenance recommended by the factory...becau=
se
in that time it should not pass anything abnormal, and if happens, the
factory would be taken charge of the repair.
About rear tire, I think that Bridgestone TW302 (and front TW301) is the
best option for Dual-sport (duration, performance, prize...)(take a look =
in
muy web here:
http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/bridgest.htm)
The new DR400Z (dual-sport version) bring these tyres.
Bye
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS
Date: 08 Feb 2000 23:17:58 +0100
Here there is two dual-sports helmets (thety seem very good options)
http://www.agv.com/2000/m47rr/m47rr_uk.htm NEW, 2000 model (nice :) )
http://www.nolan.it/a/prod_nolan.asp?c=3Dr&f=3D3 Nolan n70
I look the bieefe 3sports... but it has a small problem (or big...). The
screen (=BF? it=B4s ok that?) doesn=B4t open full, they do half, Other he=
lmets,
how nolan N70 open the screen fully, and it=B4s ok (you can use the helme=
t on
and off road, within quit the screen)
Bye.
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Kurt Simpson <ajax@xmission.com>
Para: Steven Gilleland <stevengilleland@webtv.net>; dr@lists.xmission.com
<dr@lists.xmission.com>
Fecha: martes 8 de febrero de 2000 22:29
Asunto: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS
>> Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bief=
fe
>> 3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave u=
p
>> and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know
>> if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good
>> choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and t=
he
>> price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it.
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>Steven, I haven't owned a Bieffe, I have heard of a few people that like=
d
theirs. At the
>other end of the price spectrum is the Arai Dual Sport which ends up clo=
se
to or a little
>over $300...they were discontinued but MAW has some in stock...I have on=
e
and like it.
>
>Kurt
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: RAld277@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Broke Spokes
Date: 08 Feb 2000 18:09:24 EST
I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called
the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I then
decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped
the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt
loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any
way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that included
some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes.
This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did
not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them
correctly?
Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike A.
Nashville
95 DR 350
90 Husky WXE 510
99 KX 100 (Honey's bike)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: njkouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE rear wheel
Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:10:33 -0700
Mikko,
The DRZ400E did not get the twin chambered forks as on the 96-97 RM, but
externally appear to be the same, even the tripple clamps look identical except
for the headlight/number plate mountings. The cushioned rear hub also
disappeared here in the US on the 97 up "S" models. Have not heard of a 3 year
guarantee here on the DR350, unless the buyer purchases what we call an
extended warrantee for an addition fee. Will leave the rest of the questions
to someone else to answer.
Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
mikko vimpari wrote:
> Thanks for replying Andy and Doug.
>
> Here I go again,questions,please,don't get angry guys
> >From '97-'99 350SE has no more cushioned-hub rear wheel(at least here in
> Finland)
> So,did Suzuki calculate that350SE is too powerless to do any damage to it's
> transmission,
> when riding on asphalt roads?(what would happen to tranny on asphalt,if my
> bike was been heavily hopped up?)
>
> Does anyone know, is that DRZ400 fork actually twin-chamber fork, like past
> RM's had.
>
> Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee.
>
> Any comments
> welcome
>
> Mikko from snowy
> Finland
> '97 350SEV
>
> -
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Broke Spokes
Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:08:41 -0800
Hi Mike, when you lose 1 spoke the next one has to take the extra load and
if its abused it also breaks and its all down hill from there. Bucannon in
southern Calif. has stainless spokes for the DR.... Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of RAld277@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 3:09 PM
I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called
the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I
then
decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped
the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt
loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any
way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that
included
some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes.
This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did
not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them
correctly?
Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike A.
Nashville
95 DR 350
90 Husky WXE 510
99 KX 100 (Honey's bike)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: CGUBERA@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Broke Spokes
Date: 08 Feb 2000 19:16:26 EST
In a message dated 2/8/00 11:13:35 PM, RAld277@aol.com writes:
<< I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called
the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I then
decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped
the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt
loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any
way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that included
some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes.
This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did
not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them
correctly?
Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR?
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike A.
Nashville
95 DR 350
90 Husky WXE 510
99 KX 100 (Honey's bike)
>>
Spoke tightening is a very fine art. There is a great book available called T
he Wheel Book by Jobst Brandt. This guy is the guru of wheels. He is an
engineer for HP now but helped design Porsche brakes, and many bicycling
products among other things. Anyway, you need a tensiometer which measures
spoke tension if you want to do it right, but with some practive it can be
done by feel. The basic tenant is that you want the spokes as tight as you
can get them without the wheel turning into a taco to give you the strongest
wheel. The spokes all work together so tightening one that is loose without
adjusting the others is a mistake.
Hope this helps...Chris in Nor Cal
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: ScottoBme@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Scottoiler system
Date: 08 Feb 2000 20:13:18 EST
Does anyone have any experience with the Scottoiler. I would be very interested in any feedback.
Thanks
Scott Bower
98 DR650
Redondo Beach, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus)
Subject: (dr) Re: Tire tools
Date: 09 Feb 2000 04:40:23 -0600
The tire tools I have been using for many years on all kinds of bikes
were bought from a local auto parts store. Used a grinder to round off
the edges and a file to smooth that out. Don't forget some kinda rim
protectors if ya wanna keep the rim looking really pretty.
--
Best Regards & Happy Trails
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
Y2KLR650 @ 2200 sMiles
97 R11RA (Amgia) @ 11K Miles
So Many Roads, So Little Time
http://members.deltech.net/aches/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) DR prices etc.
Date: 09 Feb 2000 17:20:19 +0200
Hi, I hope somebody finds this interesting
I'd like to explain a little, why is it important, that in Finland DR's have
3 years guarantee.
In the US new DRZ 400 dual sport pays about 6000$, am I right?
In Finland same bike costs registerated nearly 12000 US dollars (No, i'm not
kidding, it's a real nightmare)
Main reason is extremely high taxes in bike prices and partly due current
jen rate
Same taxes with gasoline, one US gallon gas is about 4$
(Yep, i'm glad that I ride DR not Chevrolet)
One thing I see more negative in America,
your OHV laws seem to be really strict,
yes, we do have laws too but here I can choose
pretty freely many of the thousands of miles forest roads and trails
and go riding
I see it this way with OHV laws, little land-little problems,
(well, maybe not in England), and partly because
dirt bikes are not very common here
It feels strange, but here in northern Finland most guys
want to ride street bikes despite of great offroad possibilities
Mikko Vimpari from expensive Finland
'97 DR350SE
'92 Yamaha wr250
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Kevin Albrecht <albrecht.32@osu.edu>
Subject: (dr) Stainless steel oil filter
Date: 09 Feb 2000 10:18:58 -0500 (EST)
Hey all
I was checking out Scotts web page and ran across a stainless steal oil filter.
Its at http://scott@scottsperformance.com/
Has anyone tried one of these?
Kevin 98SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Stainless steel oil filter
Date: 09 Feb 2000 08:24:24 -0800
Yes, and I have them for sale. Check out
http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/kpinfo.jpg
I have the DR stainless steel oil filters in stock along with some for Honda
and Kawasaki. I can get you just about any 4stroke dirt bike stainless
steel oil filter or custom made for any street bike too.
These filters work great and will be the last one you will ever need to buy
for your bike. They are not cheap but are well made.
Fred Hink
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
Arrowhead Motorsports
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148
Moab, Utah
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 7:18 AM
> Hey all
>
> I was checking out Scotts web page and ran across a stainless steal oil
filter.
> Its at http://scott@scottsperformance.com/
> Has anyone tried one of these?
>
>
> Kevin 98SE
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) DR prices etc.
Date: 09 Feb 2000 15:35:44 -0000
We pay pound for dollar for most things in the UK, which is a bit of a
bast*rd since the exchange rate is =A3 * 1.6 / $. We pay =A33.30 =
($5.30) for a
gallon of unleaded, which is about 80% tax. UK gallons are 4.42 =
litres...is
that the same as US gallons?
Andy the pauper
Exploited citizen of that funny little lump lying off the East Coast
(Europe, to those of you holding your maps upside down)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 09 February 2000 15:20
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) DR prices etc.
>=20
> Hi, I hope somebody finds this interesting
>=20
> I'd like to explain a little, why is it important, that in Finland =
DR's
> have
> 3 years guarantee.
> In the US new DRZ 400 dual sport pays about 6000$, am I right?
> In Finland same bike costs registerated nearly 12000 US dollars (No, =
i'm
> not
> kidding, it's a real nightmare)
> Main reason is extremely high taxes in bike prices and partly due =
current
> jen rate
> Same taxes with gasoline, one US gallon gas is about 4$
> (Yep, i'm glad that I ride DR not Chevrolet)
>=20
> One thing I see more negative in America,
> your OHV laws seem to be really strict,
> yes, we do have laws too but here I can choose
> pretty freely many of the thousands of miles forest roads and trails
> and go riding
> I see it this way with OHV laws, little land-little problems,
> (well, maybe not in England), and partly because
> dirt bikes are not very common here
> It feels strange, but here in northern Finland most guys
> want to ride street bikes despite of great offroad possibilities
>=20
> Mikko Vimpari from expensive Finland
> '97 DR350SE
> '92 Yamaha wr250
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark Sims" <msims@nortelnetworks.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs
Date: 09 Feb 2000 12:11:47 -0500
Hi,
My springs are also the Progressive Suspension types. Thanks for
the feedback.
I plan to start with the stock-recommended oil weight and height
and probably a spacer of 1 inch (after comparing the length of
the new spring with the stock).
From Norm's email, it sounds like I want to keep preload to about
3/8". How will changing the oil height affect the characteristic
of the spring?
Mark
Wayne Marsula' wrote:
>
> Mark and Norm,
> I didn't see where you said what kind of springs you bought.
> Progressive Suspension lists with their spring a spacer of 1" for the
> 1998 model. I just checked it myself, as I ordered springs for my 98.
> FWIW,
> Wayne Marsula'
> Escondido, CA
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) RE: DR prices etc.
Date: 09 Feb 2000 21:56:25 +0200
Thanks for replying guys
Maybe I miscalculated that gas price,
i'll try to put it this way, it's about three times
more expensive than in the US
I must admit, that dirt only DRZ400
pays "only" about 8000$US(because taxes are not paid)
but you can't ride it on public roads( can't register it)
and i think, there's no any guarantee included.
So, you want to dual sport here, pay that extra 4000$
People are importing bikes especially from Germany,
but they face same dilemma,register it-pay taxes.
If you work abroad over one year,you can bring bike
tax-free.
Sorry, if i sound bitter,did not mean it
Thank you for sympathy
Mikko
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "The Clouser Family" <clouser@innernet.net>
Subject: (dr) bieffe helmets
Date: 09 Feb 2000 16:24:26 -0500
Steve, I own a Bieffe 3-sport helmet. I like the helmet and the price of it,
but I wouldn't purchase it for the following reasons: The shield only lifts
half way and scratches very easily. I have tried to purchase extra shields
through Bieffe and through Dennis Kirk where I purchased the helmet. I
didn't have any luck with either dealer. I found Don Locke at
dlocke@matrixsports.com. He was supposed to have shields. I ordered them
with my charge card, but haven't received them yet, and I gave up after 4-6
months. From bieffe's instructions to remove the shield you must pry with a
screwdriver gently. It did not not work and pieces of my helmet broke(CHEAP
you get what you pay for). I stayed with the helmet, but bought Scott no-fog
goggles to replace the shield, and I'm very pleased.
Jim
1998 DR650SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Zucker" <billz@tns.net>
Subject: (dr) Spokes
Date: 09 Feb 2000 18:40:14 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Guys,
A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your spokes is to:
1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the spokes with a bit of =
metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but each =
spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension =
(simple physics, given identical spokes).
2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, and note the tones =
produced by the average front and average rear.
3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A slight twist (just =
enough to break the friction) is all that's required to change the =
tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch.
Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the first human on the =
Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get =
someone else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a =
few different tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and =
iterations, because all tensions are interconnected) I can be assured =
the spokes are now equally and correctly tensioned. Getting the note =
from the newest bike possible raises the probability that the overall =
tension level is what the factory recommends.
Bill
------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your =
spokes is=20
to:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the =
spokes with a=20
bit of metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but =
each=20
spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension =
(simple=20
physics, given identical spokes).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, =
and note=20
the tones produced by the average front and average rear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A =
slight=20
twist (just enough to break the friction) is all that's required to =
change the=20
tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the =
first human on=20
the Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get =
someone=20
else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a few =
different=20
tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and iterations, because all =
tensions=20
are interconnected) I can be assured the spokes are now equally and =
correctly=20
tensioned. Getting the note from the newest bike possible raises the =
probability=20
that the overall tension level is what the factory =
recommends.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bill</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 10 Feb 2000 08:45:05 +0100
Hi Mikko!
About the needle:
I`m not sure but I think that the first number is a serial number, cd is
the taper in degrees. This needle has two different tapers, c is the upper
one and d the lower. The numbers at the end is about its outer diameter. At
least this is the case on tmx needles. If the number ends with, say 55,
this means that the outer diameter is 2,55mm. A lower number means that the
needle is richer because the difference between the needle jet and jet
needle gets bigger.
Markus
Skellefte=E5, Sweden
At 21.56 2000-02-05 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:
>Hi
>Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
>Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened
clutchcover yet)
>If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new
ones,when changing worn friction plates,
>or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
>
>How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my
stock 5cd27
>
>I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
>
>
Thanks for the great list
>
>
Mikko from Finland
>
DR350SE-97
>
yamaha wr250-92
>
>Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)350S"
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
Date: 10 Feb 2000 09:02:28 +0100
Hi=20
A bike loose about 13 % of it=B4s power from the crank to the rear wheel.
Only 31 hp was still a very low number. I=B4ve seen power curves of DR 350
and it puts out 25 hp. But you can take a look at http://mcnews.com.au.
Under "tests" all curious can read about the dr-z. They=B4ve also included a
power curve (or whatever the word is)both stock(41hp) and with a modified
exhaust(45hp I think it was). At www.motorcycle.com you can find another
test of the dr-z. Look under "offroad".=20
Markus
At 22.12 2000-02-05 -0500, Steven McGarry wrote:
>
>
>
>
>i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on a
>dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
>a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
>
>-
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Markus LIndrgen <muslin96@student.umu.se>
Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma
Date: 10 Feb 2000 09:09:33 +0100
Hi Jim
I suggest that you try to find the april -99 issue of Dirt Rider. Maybe
some of your friends has it? They tested exhaust pipes and complete systems
on an XR 400 and they both described how the bike felt with the different
pipes mounted and showed the hp numbers from the dyno. Very interesting
reading.
Markus
Sweden
At 12.04 2000-02-06 -0500, jnugent wrote:
>Hello,
>I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I
have tried all
>the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know
were I
>could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was thinking
>about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I have
>a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit
from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Jim Nugent
>
>
>Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)dr35"
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) DR350S jet kits etc.
Date: 10 Feb 2000 18:21:36 +0200
Thank you for information Markus, I have forgotten to thank Norm,
Jesse,Pablo, sorry, thank you also (and people not mentioned here)
Apologies to people, who are fed up with me, I seem to write every day (long
winter)
I know you have probably been talking around this subject maybe 100
times,but once
again,
which one is better bargain; Factory jet kit or Dynojet kit
Do you get same amount of jets, any other differencies?
My friend has '98 DR650SE, he installed self-made skid plate to his bike
last summer, he didn't bore vent holes to the plate.
Soon he was complaining on warm days,"engine is getting so hot,
it's actually losing power", I know it's not bike's fault
those vent holes seem to be essential.
Suzuki dealer changed cam chain tensioner to his bike under warranty.
Bike was ridden 2000 miles and tensioner was getting noisy(rare failure?)
Thanks for patience
Mikko "snowman" Vimpari
'97 DR350SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:56:36 -0600
Hello List,
I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a
brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a
99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock.
My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft)
with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a
vacation, and some play riding.
I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to
Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also
thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading
the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two
mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one
that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to
Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then
use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out
would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find
is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he
took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never
got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: (dr) About exhaust
Date: 10 Feb 2000 14:00:34 +0100
Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?.
I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only FMF, =
WB
and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more?
can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ USA)?
what is the best :) ?
What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc exhaus=
t?
Bye.
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: garlandfam@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 12:33:17 -0500
From what I know (believe me, it is not much), you must drill out a plug to
adjust fuel to air mix. I understand that the factory sets fuel to air mix
and then seals the hole where the screw is with a soft metal.
-----Original Message-----
>Hello List,
>
> I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a
>brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a
>99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock.
>My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft)
>with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a
>vacation, and some play riding.
> I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to
>Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also
>thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading
>the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two
>mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one
>that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to
>Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then
>use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out
>would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find
>is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he
>took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never
>got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range.
>
>Bryan
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: njkouba <njkouba@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 11:09:40 -0700
Bryan,
The carb on your DR350 has a fuel adjustment screw on the bottom just forward of
the float bowl. If by chance you have a Calif. DR350 (dirt only model) then you
may have a CV type carb without an excelerator pump. It still will have the fuel
adjustment screw in the same location, its just covered with a plug so it is
tamper proof. To be able to adjust this without burning yourself, one needs the
"T" handle adjusting needle, rather than the too long of a screw driver and heavy
gloves. Believe Jesse over at Kientech Engineering stocks them. If you have the
pumper style carb, once it is set up properly you should not have to change
anything other than possibly a half turn on this fuel adjusting screw. We ride
around 2,200 ft in the winter and up to 10,000 ft in the summer with out any
internal changes. If you decide on the Vortex air box, it will come with all the
jetting specs. and they will be considerably different than with the stock box.
Also you may want to check and see where the fuel squirter nozzle is pointed. It
should point just to the right of the needle when aimed correctly, and not back
into the airbox as we have seen on more than one new bike. Let us know if you
need some help jetting etc.
Norm
Suzuki DR Suspensions
DR. DR
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299
Bryan Ply wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a
> brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a
> 99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock.
> My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft)
> with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a
> vacation, and some play riding.
> I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to
> Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also
> thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading
> the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two
> mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one
> that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to
> Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then
> use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out
> would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find
> is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he
> took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never
> got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range.
>
> Bryan
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:16:50 -0800
Hi Bryan, well lets approach this carefully. If you have the pumper carb,
Throttle / cable mechanism) should be on the right side when sitting on the
bike. Fuel screw: located in front of the bowl bottom center of the carb. a
tee handle aftermarket fuel screw available from Thumper Racing at
1-800-259-5186 will give you the easiest adjustment capabilities that you
can possibly get. This pumper carb is the best you can get for the DR350.
Airbox: Your stock airbox is strangling the engine from the get go,134.3 cfm
on a flow bench so this is one reason why you are having problems at high
elevation. The vortex will provide twice the air volume (265 cfm on a flow
bench) as the stock one plus give you better throttle response, longer
intervals between servicing the filter and its much simpler to change the
element. an added note is that it will support any engine moods that you do
and give you serious performance gains. If I can be of further help please
feel free to contact me.
My best regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 8:57 AM
Hello List,
I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a
brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a
99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock.
My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft)
with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a
vacation, and some play riding.
I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to
Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also
thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading
the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two
mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one
that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to
Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then
use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out
would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find
is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he
took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never
got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range.
Bryan
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350S jet kits etc.
Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:16:56 -0800
HI Mikko, You might try Thumper Racing 1-800-259-5186 carb kit for the
DR650SE # CADR5 lists for 68.00 US. Address 604 so. Washington Marshall
Texas 75670. You can't ask too many Questions, and there is no such thing
as a dumb Question. I am always here to help any way I can.
My best regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 8:22 AM
Thank you for information Markus, I have forgotten to thank Norm,
Jesse,Pablo, sorry, thank you also (and people not mentioned here)
Apologies to people, who are fed up with me, I seem to write every day (long
winter)
I know you have probably been talking around this subject maybe 100
times,but once
again,
which one is better bargain; Factory jet kit or Dynojet kit
Do you get same amount of jets, any other differencies?
My friend has '98 DR650SE, he installed self-made skid plate to his bike
last summer, he didn't bore vent holes to the plate.
Soon he was complaining on warm days,"engine is getting so hot,
it's actually losing power", I know it's not bike's fault
those vent holes seem to be essential.
Suzuki dealer changed cam chain tensioner to his bike under warranty.
Bike was ridden 2000 miles and tensioner was getting noisy(rare failure?)
Thanks for patience
Mikko "snowman" Vimpari
'97 DR350SE
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:23:20 -0800
Hi Bryan, the Dirt model pumper carb doesn't have this plug only the cv carb
( dual purpose & Calif issue bikes) there is a remote chance that you may
have a Calif epa issue bike but that is not likely in Texas. the Cv carb has
the Throttle mechanism on the left side of the carb while sitting on the
bike.
Regards jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of garlandfam@mindspring.com
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 9:33 AM
Hi
>From what I know (believe me, it is not much), you must drill out a plug to
adjust fuel to air mix. I understand that the factory sets fuel to air mix
and then seals the hole where the screw is with a soft metal.
-----Original Message-----
>Hello List,
>
> I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a
>brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a
>99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock.
>My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft)
>with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a
>vacation, and some play riding.
> I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to
>Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also
>thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading
>the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two
>mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one
>that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to
>Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then
>use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out
>would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find
>is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he
>took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never
>got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range.
>
>Bryan
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600
List,
Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling
Thumper
Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then
getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure
is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Intro
Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:19:31 -0800 (PST)
--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
wrote:
> Hi Bryan, well lets approach this carefully. If you
> have the pumper carb,
> Throttle / cable mechanism) should be on the right
> side when sitting on the
> bike. Fuel screw: located in front of the bowl
> bottom center of the carb. a
> tee handle aftermarket fuel screw available from
> Thumper Racing at
> 1-800-259-5186 will give you the easiest adjustment
> capabilities that you
> can possibly get. This pumper carb is the best you
> can get for the DR350.
> Airbox: Your stock airbox is strangling the engine
> from the get go,134.3 cfm
> on a flow bench so this is one reason why you are
> having problems at high
> elevation. The vortex will provide twice the air
> volume (265 cfm on a flow
> bench) as the stock one plus give you better
> throttle response, longer
> intervals between servicing the filter and its much
> simpler to change the
> element. an added note is that it will support any
> engine moods that you do
> and give you serious performance gains. If I can be
> of further help please
> feel free to contact me.
> My best regards Jesse
>
> Bryan this airbox WILL INDEED breath new life into
your DR.It made a huge difference in throttle response
and I would be hard pressed to see someone that would
not be happy with the results.I highly recommend it to
any DR owner as this single mod was the best money I
have yet to spend on my bike.You will not be
dissapionted.To give you an idea of how much more air
volume this box flows I had to jet up from a 127.5 to
a 147.5 with the addition of the box and FMF exhuast.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:22:34 -0800 (PST)
--- Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com> wrote:
>
> List,
>
> Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but
> after calling
> Thumper
> Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec
> airbox, and then
> getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what
> the exact procedure
> is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows
> better.
>
> Bryan
>
> -Step one tell the wife who the king of the castle
is.Step two buy airbox.(joke)
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: MREINA@webtv.net (Michael Reina)
Subject: (dr) fork oil measurements
Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:07:53 -0500 (EST)
When measuring oil level on forks with race-tech cartrige emulators,
Should the emulators be in (fork collaspes, no springs) or out of the
fork tubes.
Somebody please help I'm in the middle of this job!
thanks, Mike Reina
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:18:33 -0800
HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and
seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind
the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side
and stop at the edge of the foam rubber that runs just under the frame on
each side then do the same thing at the rear of the airbox right along the
edge of the foam that runs side to side. next you cut front to back along
the edge of the foam rubber on each side. Vacuum out all of the chips and
reinstall the airfilter. You will have to rejet the carb I would try a 140
main to start with and leave the pilot stock you will open the fuel screw to
one and three quarter turns out from fully closed. drop the clip on the
needle to the fourth groove. now keep track of your plug color. Black is too
rich brown is correct and gray to white is lean. hope this helps if you have
more questions please feel free to contact me.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 1:09 PM
List,
Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling
Thumper
Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then
getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure
is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better.
Bryan
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) fork oil measurements
Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:20:06 -0800
I would do it with the emulators in.
regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Michael Reina
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:08 PM
When measuring oil level on forks with race-tech cartrige emulators,
Should the emulators be in (fork collaspes, no springs) or out of the
fork tubes.
Somebody please help I'm in the middle of this job!
thanks, Mike Reina
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 06:48:50 -0800
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and
> seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind
> the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side
Jesse,
How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs.
the Vortex Box?
I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if
something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 07:27:40 -0800
Hi Again Bryan, as I mentioned before your stock airbox flows 134.3 cfm of
air on a flowbench, this is with a clean and oiled filter element. When
this test was done it was also tested with the access door off and had a
gain in flow up to 142.5 then the filter element was removed in addition to
the access door and the flow was increased slightly to 145.1 cfm. this
indicates that the airbox itself is extremely restrictive. your gain in
cutting out the top of the stock airbox would be a little over 8 cfm I must
admit that this does help some but it falls far short of the Vortex and its
265 cfm. I hope this information helps you and others on the list to make
informed decisions when considering increasing the airflow by cutting out
the top of the airbox.
my best regards to you all Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Wayne Marsula'
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 6:49 AM
Cc: Bryan Ply; dr_list
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and
> seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch
behind
> the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side
Jesse,
How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs.
the Vortex Box?
I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if
something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab"
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 07:34:20 -0800
Hi Wayne, thanks for the heads up. I have been checking around here on this
discovery trail and have come up short is it near southern Oregon. If it is
you would be welcome to leave your vehicle at my place it would be secure
here as I am here most all the time.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 6:49 AM
Cc: Bryan Ply; dr_list
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and
> seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch
behind
> the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side
Jesse,
How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs.
the Vortex Box?
I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if
something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) air box
Date: 11 Feb 2000 11:03:52 -0500
How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box.
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) air box
Date: 11 Feb 2000 09:12:34 -0800
Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing stock including exhaust,
you could hear the increased air flow, from under the seat. However it is
not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an aftermarket exhaust is installed
I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to me . Hope this answers
your question
regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Mike Ballou
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM
How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box.
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) air box
Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:39:14 -0700
> How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box.
> Mike
For anyone interested...Dual Sport News did an evaluation of the Vortex box in its
December issue. It was a very postive review. The carb drake noise is increased but as
Jesse said not in any way that is irritating...it makes it sound like its nose is
unstuffed (g)
Kurt
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From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:12:41 -0800
One thing to keep in mind, is that if you were to sell the bike latter
with a cut stock air box, it will decrease the value. It would cost more to
buy a new replacement Suzuki air box than a Vortec box. If you bought the
Vortec box and you decide to sell the bike, you can put all the stock goods
back on and sell the aftermarket goodies for 50-70% of what you paid for
them new. Most people buying a used bike don't care for the aftermarket
stuff, it looks better to have a stock bike because it is perceived that the
bike has never been raced or thrashed to most buyers.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600
> To: dr_list <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade
>
>
> List,
>
> Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling
> Thumper
> Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then
> getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure
> is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better.
>
> Bryan
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:40:26 -0800
Well put Jeff, I have thought of this factor but never posted it most people
like to see a stock item that is used, it presents an (original condition)
picture to them....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jeff Corsaro
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:13 AM
One thing to keep in mind, is that if you were to sell the bike latter
with a cut stock air box, it will decrease the value. It would cost more to
buy a new replacement Suzuki air box than a Vortec box. If you bought the
Vortec box and you decide to sell the bike, you can put all the stock goods
back on and sell the aftermarket goodies for 50-70% of what you paid for
them new. Most people buying a used bike don't care for the aftermarket
stuff, it looks better to have a stock bike because it is perceived that the
bike has never been raced or thrashed to most buyers.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600
> To: dr_list <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade
>
>
> List,
>
> Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling
> Thumper
> Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then
> getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure
> is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better.
>
> Bryan
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Dhchas@cs.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:34:44 EST
In a message dated 2/10/00 1:12:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Bryan.Ply@gte.com writes:
<< Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling
Thumper
Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then
getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure
is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better.
Bryan
>>
Bryan,
Maybe you should wait till after Valentine's Day. Does she have it on your
wish list? Just trying to help.
Harral
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600
If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of
his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and
I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting
the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not
when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it
is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes)
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:19:58 -0800
Bryan,
If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does
not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related
mailing list for a air box for you!
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600
> To: Dhchas@cs.com
> Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
>
> If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of
> his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and
> I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting
> the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not
> when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it
> is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes)
>
> Bryan
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:37:31 -0600
I would appriate that, but I dont think that the creative accounting
approach will fail, I figure in a couple of months I will get it, just
enought time for me to get back on the bike and get use to the power
that it already posses!!!!
Thank God for Spring time
Bryan
Jeff Corsaro wrote:
>
> Bryan,
>
> If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does
> not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related
> mailing list for a air box for you!
>
> Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
>
> > From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> > Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600
> > To: Dhchas@cs.com
> > Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
> > Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
> >
> > If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of
> > his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and
> > I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting
> > the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not
> > when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it
> > is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes)
> >
> > Bryan
> >
> > -
> > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) whistling DR650
Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:39:39 -0800
Greetings, all -
My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the
pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around
1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that
KLR's have a history of this problem.
Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue
with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)?
Thanks, eh!
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz
Date: 11 Feb 2000 16:34:02 -0500
Will a Vortex box be made for the new DRz400. I just bought one this week. I
will pick it up within the next two weeks. The dealer is installing m21's
and I will be ordering a baja kit. Has any body used baja's directional
switch assy. I like the OEM on my current DR and was thinking of buying a
Suzuki OEM switch unit and having baja wire that in.
Mike B.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 4:20 PM
Bryan,
If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does
not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related
mailing list for a air box for you!
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600
> To: Dhchas@cs.com
> Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
>
> If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of
> his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and
> I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting
> the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not
> when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it
> is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes)
>
> Bryan
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz
Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:18:17 -0800
Mike
The one they give you with the newer Baja kit is a little better than the
push-to-cancle switch on the DR350SE. I think it is off a Husaburg dual
sport bike. The old one is a piece of junk one similar to the ones used on
Japanese bikes in the 70's. It is a old style turn signal switch and once
sand gets into it, it does not work. You can wire just about any turn,
headlight, horn switch you want. The wires might be different colors for
the different circuits.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
> Reply-To: Mike Ballou <ballou@ARC-TECH.COM>
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:34:02 -0500
> To: "'DR'" <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz
>
> Will a Vortex box be made for the new DRz400. I just bought one this week. I
> will pick it up within the next two weeks. The dealer is installing m21's
> and I will be ordering a baja kit. Has any body used baja's directional
> switch assy. I like the OEM on my current DR and was thinking of buying a
> Suzuki OEM switch unit and having baja wire that in.
> Mike B.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) whistling DR650
Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:23:36 -0800
It sounds like one of the exhaust pipe gaskets. Try to tighten the
exhaust flange. Once the pipe heats up, the metal expands and exhaust leak
diminishes. If it's under warranty, take it to the dealer, they might just
give you a new pipe.
Hope that helps,
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
> Reply-To: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:39:39 -0800
> To: "DR List" <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) whistling DR650
>
> Greetings, all -
>
> My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the
> pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around
> 1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that
> KLR's have a history of this problem.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue
> with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)?
>
> Thanks, eh!
>
> Lisa
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) air box
Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:10:31 -0800 (PST)
I'll back up Jesse's evaluation as I have the Vortex
box and FMF exhuast.The noise from the box is not
noticable as for snap that's another story.
--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
wrote:
> Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing
> stock including exhaust,
> you could hear the increased air flow, from under
> the seat. However it is
> not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an
> aftermarket exhaust is installed
> I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to
> me . Hope this answers
> your question
>
> regards Jesse
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com
> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
> Behalf Of Mike Ballou
> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM
> To: 'DR'
> Subject: (dr) air box
>
>
> How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the
> stock box.
> Mike
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> old messages send
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> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:19:02 -0800 (PST)
--- Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com> wrote:
> Bryan,
>
> If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the
> creative accounting does
> not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser
> on all the dirt related
> mailing list for a air box for you!
>
> Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
>
> Hey guys how bout a charity fund raiser for a big
bore kit and cam package for my bike i'll chip in the
first 5 dollars!!!!LOL(Laughing Out Loud)
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> old messages send
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> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) whistling DR650
Date: 11 Feb 2000 17:12:10 -0700
> My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the
> pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around
> 1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that
> KLR's have a history of this problem.
>
> Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue
> with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)?
Yes, I have and I took it to being the same problem with the KLR's only I can hear the DR
while I can't hear the KLR (I'm hard of hearing and the pitch isn't right). Yes, I think
it is a warranty issue. I bought a SuperTrapp IDS2 instead.
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: (dr) FW: Hi!
Date: 11 Feb 2000 19:16:57 -0800
Hi Rick, Good to hear from you sounds like you are up to your old tricks
embarrassing these guys on the hot rides with a 10 year old DR350. I may be
able to find one up here for Paul but there should be some coming out of the
wood work as soon as the drz400's start hitting the showrooms in numbers
keep your eyes on the classifieds. We should see a product evaluation on the
YZ/WR Airbox soon in Motocross Action maybe April. I am still moving the
Airboxes for the DR's one went out Wednesday and I will install one this
week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping
pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil. keep
in touch.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 11:57 AM
Hi Jesse,
I have been thinking of you and thought I would drop you a note to see how
you are doing. I was actually in Oregon several weeks ago, but it was a
quick trip. I went to Portland and Beaverton for a couple of days and then
went to San Antonio. What a difference in climates. It was snowing in
Portland and 90 degrees in San Antonio. I guess I hit the unseasonal
extremes in both places! I did have a chance to ride several weeks in a
row. A couple of my friends bought new XR400's and have been anxious to
ride. My bike has been running great and often surprises the other guys I
have been riding with. Eric's friend has a YZ426 and a couple of others
have YZ400's and they can never pull away from me or catch me on the
straight trails. They seem to be evenly matched, especially climbing
hills. Eric's friend is getting an XR650, that will probably be a
different story. The new liquid cooled motor is supposed to be
unbelievably strong. Of course, they raved about the XR400 when it first
came out and we all know how that was.
Do you know about any DR350's for sale. Paul has been wanting to get one
and they are becoming harder to find. He did find one that needed a new
motor, but it may be hard to find the engine only.
You will have to forward me some sales material so I can start selling your
airboxes. I have been riding with the Yamaha guys who would probably be
interested in seeing some flyers. If you don't have any, maybe we can come
up with something together. Are you having any write ups in the magazines,
I haven't seen any yet, or maybe I just missed them.
I went motorcycle shopping last week. I am tempted to buy the new DRZ, but
I will wait another year or two. I am looking for a new bike for Neil,
Michele's son. I have been considering the new TT-R125L. It's looks like
a smaller YZ400 and seems much better than the Honda XR100. It has better
suspension and a front disc brake, not to mention, more power. They will
probably become available next month. Michele would also like a small quad
to cruise around on, so I guess that means I will have to wait my turn
before I can get a new toy. Anyway, I still like my bike and am not in a
hurry.
Take care and say Hi to Jan for me.
Rick
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) FW: Hi!
Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:49:31 -0700
> week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping
> pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil. keep
> in touch.....Jesse
Jesse, what is the range of big bore options for 350's these days? Who makes them and
what comments could you offer about each? Are any more reliable than others?
Kurt
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) FW: Hi!
Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:19:06 -0800
I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the reliability
aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and have
not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so
when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441. I see you
have read the post to my friend Rick he is the most mild mannered guy you
ever saw until he gets on his bike. It is setup like mine. I did them both
at the same time back in 1994. I still have not made up my mind on the
400kits we spoke of before. Tom Warren has one and has lots of miles and no
problems. The 441 has had problems in the past but they are using a
different piston now so they are probably ok they clearance their pistons at
.003 and I prefer .0025 for a stronger oil film but this is my hang-up.
These are your more popular
big bore setups out there. if you have more Questions I will try to cover
them as best as I can.
my best regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 7:50 PM
Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
> week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping
> pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil.
keep
> in touch.....Jesse
Jesse, what is the range of big bore options for 350's these days? Who makes
them and
what comments could you offer about each? Are any more reliable than others?
Kurt
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:25:30 -0800
Hi Rod, thanks for the heads up on the discovery trail, I will be sure to
let you know when I am up that way.
regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 7:53 PM
Jesse
I just caught part of a message about the Discovery Trail in Oregon?
I found the maps and down loaded them on a CD (I had my son do it on his
computer), but the trail starts by Klamath Falls, goes through Christmas
Valley then to John Day and then goes out towards Milton Freewater.
If you think of riding it, it does go just east of BEND on the way north!
Rod Carlile / Bend
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From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) FW: Hi!
Date: 11 Feb 2000 21:39:05 -0700
> I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the reliability
> aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and have
> not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so
> when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441.
What are the costs associated with the kit and its installation. How can an out of
state person like myself take advantage of your shop? If a person was to come in for
a weekend with plenty of advance notice could the job be done in 2 or 3 days? How
about partial do it yourself partial you do the machining?
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 21:23:49 -0800
Bryan -
Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's
Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ...
Does the Vortex box improve flow significantly more than installing a K&N
filter? I'm considering the K&N, as it's less taxing on my budget. Good
luck in your accounting quest.
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Dhchas@cs.com
Subject: Re: (dr) airbox upgrade
Date: 12 Feb 2000 00:56:06 EST
In a message dated 2/11/00 9:23:22 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lisab@mountain-inter.net writes:
<< Bryan -
Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's
Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ...
>>
Just be sure, before you give it to her that you fill it with dirt and put
some flowers in it. Tell her that funky ol' plastic thing with all the holes
in it, is just a "vase" and when the flowers die, you'll take care of the
"vase". Short of divorcing your wife and marrying Lisa, this is the best
creative thinking I can come up with.
Harral
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) FW: Hi!
Date: 11 Feb 2000 23:18:22 -0800
Hi Kurt, I am doing that now with one of the my customers from Calif. He
sent me his cylinder and Installed the sleeve. and sent it with the piston
kit and he is installing it on the bike. The cost of the kit is $250.50 and
I charge $130.00 to do the sleeve installation. I have a stock sleeve that I
can have already bored and fitted to the piston and can either send it in
exchange for yours or could have everything done so when you arrive I could
do the top end new piston/cylinder exchange in a day.I charge $125.00 for
this service This includes jetting the carb. Would a arrangement like this
be possible.
Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:39 PM
Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
> I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the
reliability
> aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and
have
> not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so
> when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441.
What are the costs associated with the kit and its installation. How can an
out of
state person like myself take advantage of your shop? If a person was to
come in for
a weekend with plenty of advance notice could the job be done in 2 or 3
days? How
about partial do it yourself partial you do the machining?
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) airbox upgrade
Date: 11 Feb 2000 23:37:45 -0800
Hi Lisa, It will frustrate you to death trying to get it in the stock airbox
and will not even come close to the Vortex if you recall the stock airbox
only flows 145cfm with the access door off and the filter element removed.
you put the stock filter element back in you are back to 142.5 cfm with the
access door off. If you cut the top out and put the door back on you are
back to the same thing 142.5cfm. The Vortex will give you 265 cfm. The K&N
may give you 1 or 2 cfm over the stock element but this is not worth the
hassle of trying to get it fastened in the stock airbox. I understand the
cost issue It took me almost a year of creative whining to get my wife to
let me buy my DR back in 1990 but I finally won her over. I sometimes get
carried away with this technical stuff but just trying to be informative.
my best regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Lisa Bierlmeier
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 9:24 PM
Bryan -
Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's
Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ...
Does the Vortex box improve flow significantly more than installing a K&N
filter? I'm considering the K&N, as it's less taxing on my budget. Good
luck in your accounting quest.
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) About exhaust
Date: 12 Feb 2000 19:18:24 +0200
Hi Pablo
I'm not expert with silencers,but in case nobody else answers.
Trad. mufflers: Yoshimura works well and it comes with low volume ins=
ert,
if you don't want to scare people.
Big Gun and Arrows Dakar should perform fairly well also.
You can buy supertrapp disc kit to Pro Circuit Platinum pipe too.
US guys know best about disc mufflers,but like they said
Supertrapp IDS 2 has good sound / performance ratio.
My own silencer is made from old stock dr muffler
rear section is cutted off and is replaced with longer,
better flowing and rather trick titanium made silencer.
Which one of systems is better: who knows,at least european racers
seem to prefer trad.mufflers over disc ones.
If you wanna "race" and dual sport, you can't beat that disc system
tuneability
Like Markus wrote, if you can, check out that april '99 Dirt Rider ;X=
R 400
pipe shootout
(i don't have that april issue)
Hope,this helps a bit
Mikko
----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Pablo <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:00 PM
Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?.
I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only F=
MF, WB
and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more?
can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ U=
SA)?
what is the best :) ?
What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc ex=
haust?
Bye.
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "The Clouser Family" <clouser@innernet.net>
Subject: (dr) 1998 DR650 Chains and Sprockets
Date: 12 Feb 2000 19:28:07 -0500
My stock chain on my Suzuki is a 525, and I think it must be purchased
through Suzuki. Is there any reason not to go to the 520 chain? I have
found that they are readily available at most shops. Could you please give
me the pros and cons of a 520 versus a 525. My Suzuki owner's manual states
not to have a master link in the chain. Does anyone know why that is?
Also, could anyone give me information on my stock sprockets. I plan on
making a trip from Pennsylvania to California and back in September. Should
I change them to make the bike more street-oriented? Any recommendations on
the number of teeth on the sprockets - front or back? Which ones would you
change?
Thanks,
Jim C.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Rainer.Knape.SGG@t-online.de (Rainer)
Subject: Re: (dr) 1998 DR650 Chains and Sprockets
Date: 13 Feb 2000 14:24:22 +0100
Hi Jim,
I changed to a 520 chain with my DR 650 due to the better availability of
sprockets.
I would expect a 525 chain to last a little bit longer - but not that much.
You need a masterlink to close an open chain - if you use endless chains (as
recommended) you won't need it.
If you are a 100% safety guy, you migth want the endless chain, but I never
heard of problems with open chains and masterlinks (never use it twice !).
If you still have the stock sprockets (15/41), there is no need to make your
bike even more street-oriented - it is already.
If you go offroad a 14 teeth front sprocket will be a good idea, I use 14 / 43
teeth at the moment (having a 15 sprocket for longer street rides).
Rainer
_____________________
The Clouser Family schrieb:
> My stock chain on my Suzuki is a 525, and I think it must be purchased
> through Suzuki. Is there any reason not to go to the 520 chain? I have
> found that they are readily available at most shops. Could you please give
> me the pros and cons of a 520 versus a 525. My Suzuki owner's manual states
> not to have a master link in the chain. Does anyone know why that is?
>
> Also, could anyone give me information on my stock sprockets. I plan on
> making a trip from Pennsylvania to California and back in September. Should
> I change them to make the bike more street-oriented? Any recommendations on
> the number of teeth on the sprockets - front or back? Which ones would you
> change?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim C.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Doug B <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: (dr) (350) need parts
Date: 13 Feb 2000 10:43:54 -0800
I need a factory rear turn signal for my 94 350SE. If anyone has one, I'll
buy it, or I'll take both if you have two of them. I need ones that are
not broken, and in decent condition.
Thanks,
Doug
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) (350) need parts
Date: 13 Feb 2000 11:56:18 -0800
If you can't find them used, you can get new aftermarket K&S turn
signals that match the stock ones. They are half the cost of the Suzuki
parts. Most shops that can order from Parts Unlimited or Motorcycle Stuff
can get them.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 10:43 AM
> I need a factory rear turn signal for my 94 350SE. If anyone has one,
I'll
> buy it, or I'll take both if you have two of them. I need ones that are
> not broken, and in decent condition.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Tom Warr" <drwarr@montana.com>
Subject: (dr) Obsolete?!!
Date: 13 Feb 2000 16:07:55 -0700
Jimmy Lewis
Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine
Dear Mr. Lewis:
I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate
your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is
versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete.
My wife's definition of "obsolete" is if you can't still get parts for it.
Parts are forthcoming for my DRS. The huge aftermarket has helped make the
bike even more versatile, further endearing itself to its owner. It's easy
to work on. I ride the bike a lot, and if parts ever become scarce, it would
become functionally obsolete.
I suppose another definition of obsolete would include not being up to the
task at hand. My DRS isn't competitive on the motocross track. It was never
meant to be. It is a good trail bike, and functions well in all conditions
between that and the interstate. It is important to realize how most riders
in the real world ride motorcycles, and the DRS is still up to the task of
the way most people ride them. A faster bike doesn't necessarily make the
slower bike obsolete.
Here are some other adjectives you could use to replace obsolete, while
describing my DRS. None of these belie the fact that the bike has 10 year
old technology: Durable; popular; fun to ride. You get the picture.
Sincerely,
Tom Warr Bikermaniac
Great Falls, Montana
drwarr@montana.com
PS Congratulations on your excellent finish in the Paris to Dakar race!
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) About exhaust
Date: 14 Feb 2000 02:01:51 +0200
Hi Pablo again
About White brothers E-series muffler: it's absorption type muffler, =
like
most aftermarket mufflers are.
I read YZ 400F pipe shootout, and at least for that bike it wasn't be=
tter
than the other aftermarket
mufflers in the test.Those elliptical discs seem to be more marketing=
trick.
I must admit it's really good looking muffler.
Mikko
=2E----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Pablo <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:00 PM
Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?.
I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only F=
MF, WB
and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more?
can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ U=
SA)?
what is the best :) ?
What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc ex=
haust?
Bye.
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!!
Date: 13 Feb 2000 16:16:41 -0800
Tom Warr wrote:
>
> Jimmy Lewis
> Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine
>
> Dear Mr. Lewis:
>
> I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate
> your comment
--
Tom,
Thanks for a great job saying what many of us would like to say. While
I'm sure the new DRZ is quite a good bike, I have to wonder how many
riders "really" need it. The DR350 is quite capable, and far better than
the skills that many of its riders riding skills are. A good (or better)
bike does not necessarily make a better rider.
Personally I ride a lot in the desert, both here in Southern California
and in Baja. I don't want to take a bike to the desert that may at some
point need something that is very scarce there - water. Air cooled bikes
are well able to put up with the heat of the desert, much better than I
am, and I might need that water for myself!
Again, my thanks.
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
http://www.mikthebik.com/
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
& two Yamaha's
Member:
BMW GS Mailing List (off & on)
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal
United Sidecar Association
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
Honda SOHC4 #539
National Rifle Association
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!!
Date: 13 Feb 2000 18:11:20 -0800
Good Point, that comment in Cycle World disturbed me too. The rags
always cater to what's coming out. A few months ago Dirt Rider had a under
350cc thumper review, They rated the DR350 under the Honda XR250, Yamaha
TTR250, and Kawi. KLX300. Shows you what happens when you let motocross
head rate bikes. The other thumpers might be better for jumping, cornering.
Most rider wouldn't benefit from having a bike that's 15 lbs lighter and
what ever else the very new bikes have. That $7000 Yamaha YZ400F doesn't
look very good when you don't know how to ride it.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 3:07 PM
> Jimmy Lewis
> Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine
>
> Dear Mr. Lewis:
>
> I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't
appreciate
> your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350".
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!!
Date: 13 Feb 2000 20:48:19 -0600
Tom Warr Wrote:
I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate
your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is
versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete.
Not only do we own obsolete motorcycles we're a bunch of sniveling crybabies too.
Eric
begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
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`
end
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Isaac Vanier" <ffm@pitnet.net>
Subject: (dr) aftermarket DR tank?
Date: 13 Feb 2000 23:04:03 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm just trying this out just to make sure it's active and all that. =20
What's a good looking replacement tank for a '97 DR350SE? I like the =
way the stock tank looks, but those plastic wings on this particular =
design seem "cheap" to me. I just don't really like them. A tank that =
would fit, and has radiator scoops would be cool looking, even though =
it's an air cooled bike : ) I like the style of those.
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm just trying this out just to =
make sure it's=20
active and all that. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What's a good looking replacement =
tank for a '97=20
DR350SE? I like the way the stock tank looks, but those plastic =
wings on=20
this particular design seem "cheap" to me. I just don't =
really=20
like them. A tank that would fit, and has radiator scoops would be =
cool=20
looking, even though it's an air cooled bike : ) I =
like the=20
style of those.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) aftermarket DR tank?
Date: 13 Feb 2000 21:12:36 -0800
> Isaac Vanier wrote:
>
> I'm just trying this out just to make sure it's active and all that.
>
> What's a good looking replacement tank for a '97 DR350SE? I like the
> way the stock tank looks, but those plastic wings on this particular
> design seem "cheap" to me. I just don't really like them. A tank
> that would fit, and has radiator scoops would be cool looking, even
> though it's an air cooled bike : ) I like the style of those.
>
> Thanks
Isaac,
There ain't no such animal! If you want it to have radiator scoops,
you'll have to buy a water cooled bike. I have an Acerbis tank on mine.
Fits good, holds more gas than any other after-market tank. Looks?
Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) air box
Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:11:30 -0000
As an uninterested 3rd party, my opinion is that the Vortex airbox enhances
the sound of the DR in that it sounds deeper and more throaty, but it is in
no way loud or intrusive. That's with a stock exhaust....with an
aftermarket you won't know the airbox is there by listening.
Cheers
Andy Doyle
Suffolk, England
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net]
> Sent: 11 February 2000 17:13
> To: Mike Ballou; 'DR'
> Subject: RE: (dr) air box
>
> Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing stock including exhaust,
> you could hear the increased air flow, from under the seat. However it is
> not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an aftermarket exhaust is
> installed
> I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to me . Hope this
> answers
> your question
>
> regards Jesse
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
> Behalf Of Mike Ballou
> Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM
> To: 'DR'
> Subject: (dr) air box
>
>
> How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box.
> Mike
>
>
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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>
>
> -
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 14 Feb 2000 11:25:26 -0600
Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
explain the procedure for taking it off.
Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
friends house.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 14 Feb 2000 15:59:38 -0000
Hi Mikko,
Having replaced my clutch drive plates last week I had to take the cover off
again yesterday to put new springs in...for the few pounds/dollars/roubles
they cost you may as well do them all at once. With the old ones and new
plates it wasn't possible to adjust the clutch so it wouldn't slip under
abuse without having it dragging with the lever pulled in, making finding
neutral even more impossible than usual!. New springs sorted this.
Cheers!
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
>
> Hi
> Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
> Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened
> clutchcover yet)
> If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new
> ones,when changing worn friction plates,
> or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
>
> How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my
> stock 5cd27
>
> I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
>
>
> Thanks for the great list
>
>
> Mikko from Finland
>
> DR350SE-97
>
> yamaha wr250-92
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:25:01 -0800
Hi Bryan, if you have a box trailer with sides higher than the fenders your
in trouble because it is 87 inches long. If the trailer is a flat bed it is
less than 6 ft from contact patch to contact patch on the tires. From the
front of the front tire to the rear tire contact patch center is 6 foot. You
can try to fit the bike in diagonaly and maybe you will be OK. Hope this
helps....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bryan Ply
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 9:25 AM
Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
explain the procedure for taking it off.
Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
friends house.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jeff Corsaro <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:37:18 -0800
I have a 4x6 trailer with sides, most dirt bikes fit fine when they are in
the trailer diagonally. You can get two bikes in with the tail gate down,
with the rear tire hangs out a little.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
> From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Reply-To: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 11:25:26 -0600
> To: dr_list <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> Subject: (dr) DR350 Length
>
> Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
> out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
> the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
> explain the procedure for taking it off.
>
> Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
> friends house.
>
> Bryan
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Christopher Bruno <bruno@ICD.Teradyne.COM>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 14 Feb 2000 13:37:49 -0500
Bryan Ply wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
> out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
> the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
> explain the procedure for taking it off.
>
> Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
> friends house.
>
> Bryan
Bryan,
The diagonal of a 4x6 trailer should be about 86" so you might be able to fit
it in diagonally, but I think the bike is longer than 6'. Good luck!
-Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ben Wall" <bwall@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca>
Subject: (dr) Lowering Links
Date: 14 Feb 2000 14:36:15 -0700
Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question.
Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm a little
inseam challenged.
Looking at the snow in Alberta,
Ben
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Lowering Links
Date: 14 Feb 2000 17:24:59 -0500
On Mon, 14 Feb 2000 14:36:15 -0700 "Ben Wall"
<bwall@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca> writes:
> Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question.
> Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm
> a little
> inseam challenged.
> Looking at the snow in Alberta,
> Ben
Ben,
Bruce Sutta, a member of my club, The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle
Club, operates S&S Automotive in Matthews, North Carolina. As well as
automotive work, S&S builds trikes and does conversions on all types of
vehicles for the physically impaired. Bruce has been working on lowering
links which would be of higher quality than most currently on the market.
I have copied him on this reply so that he can give you the details (Hi
Bruce!)
Hope this helps,
Al
C. Al Roof
Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride
Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc.
Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia
Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle
Association, Inc.
Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle
Conservation Council, Inc.
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Lowering Links
Date: 14 Feb 2000 14:31:38 -0800
Ben Wall wrote:
>
> Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question.
> Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm a little
> inseam challenged.
> Looking at the snow in Alberta,
> Ben
--
Ben,
Go to this website, that's the place. I got mine there and they sure
make a difference. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 15 Feb 2000 01:35:46 +0200
Hello Andy
Sounds interesting: I'll take your advice. I'm soon going to buy new
friction plates(those RM ones)
so it's better to add new springs to the shopping list.
By the way, I put recently Trelleborg spike tyres to myDR, and I can tell
you, it was
almost too much fun to slide those icy and snowy back roads with my bike,
so who needs that drz 400 anyway.
Thanks for advices Andy
Mikko
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 5:59 PM
> Hi Mikko,
>
> Having replaced my clutch drive plates last week I had to take the cover
off
> again yesterday to put new springs in...for the few pounds/dollars/roubles
> they cost you may as well do them all at once. With the old ones and new
> plates it wasn't possible to adjust the clutch so it wouldn't slip under
> abuse without having it dragging with the lever pulled in, making finding
> neutral even more impossible than usual!. New springs sorted this.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Andy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> > Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57
> > To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> > Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
> >
> > Hi
> > Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
> > Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened
> > clutchcover yet)
> > If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new
> > ones,when changing worn friction plates,
> > or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
> >
> > How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my
> > stock 5cd27
> >
> > I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the great list
> >
> >
> > Mikko from Finland
> >
> > DR350SE-97
> >
> > yamaha wr250-92
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
Date: 14 Feb 2000 18:43:17 -0800 (PST)
--- mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
wrote:
> Hello Andy
>
> Sounds interesting: I'll take your advice. I'm soon
> going to buy new
> friction plates(those RM ones)
> so it's better to add new springs to the shopping
> list.
> By the way, I put recently Trelleborg spike tyres to
> myDR, and I can tell
> you, it was
> almost too much fun to slide those icy and snowy
> back roads with my bike,
> so who needs that drz 400 anyway.
>
> Thanks for advices Andy
>
> Mikko
>
Mikko i'd think twice about those RM clutch plates.I
once thought like you and was informed those plates
engage real HARD and have been known to chip teeth off
tranny gears.This info is from a very knowledgeable
source.He also informed me the stock plates in the
bike are made well and are the best thing to stick
with just my 2 cents. John on long island
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Doug B <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Obsolete?!!
Date: 14 Feb 2000 18:56:52 -0800
Here is what Webster says about obsolescence (my dictionary didn't list
obsolete):
Gone out of use, antiquated, no longer functional.
:)
"Discontinued from the factory" or "no longer in production" would be a
more appropriate term to describe our trusty and "functional, non
antiquated" DR350's (I love mine)
Doug
Photos at: http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html
prove how functional mine has been
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 6:48 PM
Tom Warr Wrote:
I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't
appreciate
your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is
versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete.
Not only do we own obsolete motorcycles we're a bunch of sniveling
crybabies too.
Eric
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: (dr) Replacement Handlebars
Date: 14 Feb 2000 12:13:16 EST
A friend of mine with an XR600 said he bought RM80 handlebars for his bike to
make it more trail worthy and that I should do the same. Has anyone on the
list used these handle bars?
I don't want to cut the stock bars down for re-sale purposes, but they are
definately too wide for the eastern US type of woods riding I do. My friend
says the RM 80 are exactly what I need.
Thanks in advance,
Scott
99 dr350se
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates
Date: 15 Feb 2000 17:18:47 +0200
John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been known
to chip teeth off tranny gears.
Thanks John
That info really scared me,when tranny goes first,
next goes whole engine.
It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with
new,stock DR plates.
To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark
(Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody
would understand me.
Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east.
Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me and
come to take
my precious DR away ( lousy joke)
I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain.
Cheers!
Mikko from Fin(e)land
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: FW: (dr) Risky RM plates
Date: 15 Feb 2000 15:41:29 -0000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R
> Sent: 15 February 2000 15:33
> To: 'mikko vimpari'
> Subject: RE: (dr) Risky RM plates
>
> I know roubles are Russian Mikko! It was a rather feeble attempt at a
> joke. I even know where Finland is, though I haven't been to Scandinavia
> yet. I live just near Harwich, a port which has ferries sailing out your
> way twice a day, so one day I'll get over and sample those empty forest
> trails!
>
> Where did you learn your English? It's very good...loads better than my
> German and French from school back in the 19th century
>
> Cheers
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 15 February 2000 15:19
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates
>
> John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been known
> to chip teeth off tranny gears.
>
>
> Thanks John
> That info really scared me,when tranny goes first,
> next goes whole engine.
> It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with
> new,stock DR plates.
>
> To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark
> (Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody
> would understand me.
> Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east.
> Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me
> and
> come to take
> my precious DR away ( lousy joke)
> I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Mikko from Fin(e)land
>
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Risky RM plates
Date: 15 Feb 2000 22:04:49 +0200
Hey Andy
No hard feelings- I was joking too(lousy joker)
Joking apart! you haven't heard yet my horrible
English pronouncing-Welcome to Finland
Cheers!
Mikko from Finland-Where women are pretty and males are ugly
(it's better that way)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 5:33 PM
> I know roubles are Russian Mikko! It was a rather feeble attempt at a
joke.
> I even know where Finland is, though I haven't been to Scandinavia yet. I
> live just near Harwich, a port which has ferries sailing out your way
twice
> a day, so one day I'll get over and sample those empty forest trails!
>
> Where did you learn your English? It's very good...loads better than my
> German and French from school back in the 19th century
>
> Cheers
>
> Andy
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> > Sent: 15 February 2000 15:19
> > To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> > Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates
> >
> > John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been
known
> > to chip teeth off tranny gears.
> >
> >
> > Thanks John
> > That info really scared me,when tranny goes first,
> > next goes whole engine.
> > It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with
> > new,stock DR plates.
> >
> > To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark
> > (Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody
> > would understand me.
> > Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east.
> > Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me
> > and
> > come to take
> > my precious DR away ( lousy joke)
> > I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain.
> >
> > Cheers!
> >
> > Mikko from Fin(e)land
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Risky RM plates
Date: 15 Feb 2000 15:22:29 -0600
>Mikko from Finland-Where women are pretty and males are ugly
(it's better that way)
That does it, I'm moving to Finland. A pretty woman with an accent gets
me every time!
JB
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: (dr) seat foam(dr350)
Date: 15 Feb 2000 09:31:53 -0600
Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for
my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to
doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job?
Thanks Chris
99" DR350X
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) seat foam(dr350)
Date: 15 Feb 2000 16:22:33 -0800
Hi Chris, I believe you would be more impressed with the CEET tall foam and
cover from either Ceet or another cover manufacturer this tall foam fits
right on the stock seat base and is a one piece thing and is superior to the
stock or the additional 1 inch section from Thumper. I have one and its
great.......Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris Tobey
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 7:32 AM
Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for
my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to
doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job?
Thanks Chris
99" DR350X
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Corsaro" <motoscoot@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) seat foam(dr350)
Date: 15 Feb 2000 17:19:03 -0800
Remove the screws holding both side panels off, pull the side panels
off, remove the two bolts (12mm head) holding the rear seat stay bracket.
Slide the seat back.
For the seat cover, pull the old staples out with a good needle nose
pliers. Use a staple gun from a hardware store with 1/4" long staples.
Pull the seat cover to slightly compress the foam as you staple it to the
seat pan. Don't staple too close to the edge of the seat pan or the staples
will stick thought the seat cover.
Jeff Corsaro in San Diego
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 7:31 AM
> Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for
> my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to
> doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job?
>
> Thanks Chris
> 99" DR350X
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill Zucker" <billz@tns.net>
Subject: (dr) Poor Man's Jack
Date: 15 Feb 2000 18:34:52 -0800
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Guys,
I was contemplating buying a jack for my DR650 so I could do chain =
maintenance without running the bike down the block. The solution: =
Install eyebolts (1/4 inch or larger) about 4 feet apart along the =
garage wall into the studs, as low as possible, aimed up and in toward =
the handlebars. Now I run the bike up against the wall, torque down just =
a little on some straps as if I were carrying the bike in a pickup truck =
bed, and use a hydraulic jack to lift the frame as high as I want. The =
bike's very stable, but I can still slide her sideways if I need to if I =
orient the floor jack the right way.
Duh!
Bill
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF77E3.5956B740
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I was contemplating buying a jack for my DR650 so I =
could do=20
chain maintenance without running the bike down the block. The solution: =
Install=20
eyebolts (1/4 inch or larger) about 4 feet apart along the garage wall =
into the=20
studs, as low as possible, aimed up and in toward the handlebars. Now I =
run the=20
bike up against the wall, torque down just a little on some straps as if =
I were=20
carrying the bike in a pickup truck bed, and use a hydraulic jack to =
lift the=20
frame as high as I want. The bike's very stable, but I can still slide =
her=20
sideways if I need to if I orient the floor jack the right =
way.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Duh!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bill</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF77E3.5956B740--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) seat foam(dr350)
Date: 15 Feb 2000 21:36:07 EST
Don't staple too close to the edge of the seat pan or the staples
will stick thought the seat cover.
Ouch- that's got to hurt.
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: (dr) RE: Mikko here again,sorry
Date: 16 Feb 2000 09:43:40 -0000
It's not an issue Mikko! There was NOTHING wrong with what you said and
absolutely NO offence was taken!!! I just wouldn't like you to think we
didn't know where your country was! I didn't know the Finnish currency was
the Mark though, but my phone's a Nokia like half the rest of the planet,
all the way from sunny Finland! I know bugger-all else about your country
apart from that it sounds good to ride dual sport in and that Helsinki was
the venue for the winter Olympics a while back. It's interesting reading
your mails and getting an idea of what it's like.
Hope your clutch goes in ok
Cheers!
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 16 February 2000 00:29
> To: andy.doyle@bt.com
> Subject: Mikko here again,sorry
>
> Hello Andy
> I wrote: I was joking too(lousy joker)
> I meant myself as lousy joker not you
> I regret, that i wrote about that rouble thing
> Sorry Andy
>
> Mikko
>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: (dr) RE: Mikko here again,sorry
Date: 16 Feb 2000 09:47:00 -0600
I'll second what Andy said! We need more brief stories about life and
riding around the world. Of course, the DR and dual sport world that is.
This makes each one of us more knowledgable and worldly, if you will. It
gives us an idea of how the rest of the globe works. I can't speak for
everyone, but I really enjoy hearing stories from around the world. The
internet and e-mail has made the world a small place.
JB
Indianapolis, Indiana, USA
>>> <andy.doyle@bt.com> 02/16/00 03:43AM >>>
It's not an issue Mikko! There was NOTHING wrong with what you said
and
absolutely NO offence was taken!!! I just wouldn't like you to think
we
didn't know where your country was! I didn't know the Finnish currency
was
the Mark though, but my phone's a Nokia like half the rest of the
planet,
all the way from sunny Finland! I know bugger-all else about your
country
apart from that it sounds good to ride dual sport in and that Helsinki
was
the venue for the winter Olympics a while back. It's interesting
reading
your mails and getting an idea of what it's like.
Hope your clutch goes in ok
Cheers!
Andy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net]
> Sent: 16 February 2000 00:29
> To: andy.doyle@bt.com
> Subject: Mikko here again,sorry
>
> Hello Andy
> I wrote: I was joking too(lousy joker)
> I meant myself as lousy joker not you
> I regret, that i wrote about that rouble thing
> Sorry Andy
>
> Mikko
>
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Isaac Vanier" <ffm@pitnet.net>
Subject: (dr) ? about Cycle Gear airbox, and airbox mods
Date: 16 Feb 2000 23:34:04 -0800
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It seems like it's about $100. Is that correct?
Also, I have heard that it doesn't fit as well as the stock airbox. Is =
this true? One guy said that its open on the back, or sides or =
something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it off. I DONT want =
to do that, because I'm a major "looks" freak : ) Having duct tape all =
over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the box aluminum, or plastic?
Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off the stock airbox, =
and possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as well, or VERY =
close? How much is a new stock airbox?
I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems pretty expensive. And =
it at least looks heavy.
Thanks for any info!
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF78D6.4F7EAEA0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It seems like it's about $100. =
Is that=20
correct?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also, I have heard that it doesn't =
fit as well=20
as the stock airbox. Is this true? One guy said that its =
open on the=20
back, or sides or something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it=20
off. I DONT want to do that, because I'm a major "looks" =
freak :=20
) Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the =
box=20
aluminum, or plastic?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off =
the stock=20
airbox, and possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as =
well, or=20
VERY close? How much is a new stock airbox?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems =
pretty=20
expensive. And it at least looks heavy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks for any info!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF78D6.4F7EAEA0--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) ? about Cycle Gear airbox, and airbox mods
Date: 16 Feb 2000 21:50:56 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF78C7.E782D780
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Isaac, the Cycle Gear airbox that I bought back in 1993, cost $221.00 I
sell the vortex an improved version for $279.00 I believe it would be best
for you to look at the box on the bike on my website at http://.kientech.com
and see for yourself that this is a hand built aluminum Airbox that weighs
less than your stock one. It will deliver over twice the CFM's that the
stock one does which equals more horsepower. It is all but invisible on the
bike. The stock airbox with the top cut out will give you about 142cfm the
vortex flows 265cfm verified on a flowbench these facts are also on my
website. If you have any more questions please feel free to contact me.
My best regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Isaac Vanier
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:34 PM
It seems like it's about $100. Is that correct?
Also, I have heard that it doesn't fit as well as the stock airbox. Is this
true? One guy said that its open on the back, or sides or something, and he
had to duct tape it up to close it off. I DONT want to do that, because I'm
a major "looks" freak : ) Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me
nutty. Is the box aluminum, or plastic?
Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off the stock airbox, and
possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as well, or VERY close?
How much is a new stock airbox?
I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems pretty expensive. And it
at least looks heavy.
Thanks for any info!
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF78C7.E782D780
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D240363105-17022000>Hi=20
Isaac, the Cycle Gear airbox that I bought back in 1993, cost =
$221.00 I=20
sell the vortex an improved version for $279.00 I believe it would be =
best for=20
you to look at the box on the bike on my website at <A=20
href=3D"http://.kientech.com">http://.kientech.com</A> and see for =
yourself that=20
this is a hand built aluminum Airbox that weighs less than your stock =
one. It=20
will deliver over twice the CFM's that the stock one does which =
equals=20
more horsepower. It is all but invisible on the bike. The stock =
airbox=20
with the top cut out will give you about 142cfm the vortex flows =
265cfm =20
verified on a flowbench these facts are also on my website. If you =
have=20
any more questions please feel free to contact me.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D240363105-17022000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D240363105-17022000>My=20
best regards Jesse</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D240363105-17022000></SPAN><FONT face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><FONT=20
size=3D2><SPAN class=3D240363105-17022000><FONT color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial> </FONT></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"><FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D240363105-17022000> </SPAN>-----Original =
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]<B>On =
Behalf=20
Of</B> Isaac Vanier<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:34=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> dr@lists.xmission.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) ? about =
Cycle=20
Gear airbox, and airbox mods<BR><BR></DIV></FONT></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It seems like it's about $100. =
Is that=20
correct?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also, I have heard that it doesn't =
fit as well=20
as the stock airbox. Is this true? One guy said that its =
open on the=20
back, or sides or something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it=20
off. I DONT want to do that, because I'm a major "looks" freak : =
) =20
Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the box =
aluminum, or=20
plastic?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off =
the stock=20
airbox, and possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as =
well, or=20
VERY close? How much is a new stock airbox?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems =
pretty=20
expensive. And it at least looks heavy.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks for any info!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Jasniewicz <ericjazz@bigplanet.com>
Subject: (dr) re: cheap stand
Date: 17 Feb 2000 14:00:35 -0500
Just use a set of car jackstands. Cheap, around$20, and you can use them on
your car too! ;) I used a set on my moose KLR for a year until I got a
centerstand, works great. Unfortunately, I don't have a DR so I don't know
what it looks like under the engine, frame tubes or not, etc.. but you can
always use the stands on the swingarm if you're careful.
Eric "no problem" J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page
'98 KLR 650 25,000 miles
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: baglien@access1.net
Subject: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
Date: 17 Feb 2000 12:57:33 GMT
Hi guys,
I bought a '94 DR350S that has a 441 kit on it. (disclaimer... I don't have
an actual owners manual, so this may be user error)
Two days ago I was riding the bike and it seemed to run out of gas even though
it had a 1/2 of a tank. I have been riding the bike with the fuel petcock on
"prim" because when I tried riding with it on "ON" the bike died..."out of gas".
I figured at the time the petcock what screwed up. Yesterday I decided to try
to figure out what was going on and I took it apart...the gas line is clear,
so I can see the flow of the gas. The fuel petcock has 3 positions... reserve,
prim, and on... it also have a vacuum lead from the carb. Prim is direct fuel
flow and the other two need the engine to be running in order to activate the
fuel pump in the petcock. When running on prim, I can only seem to use about
1/2 my fuel... at that point gravity must not be sufficient to supply the gas.
When I start the bike, after running for a while in "reserve" or "on", air
starts getting air into the fuel line. Assuming that the tank is full, this
would seem to imply that the fuel pump is leaking, wouldn't it? I pulled the
petcock to see if there are any restrictions (clogged filter) and that is clear.
So what is the proper use of the fuel petcock? I'm assuming now, that prior
to starting, it should be placed in "prim", then once started, it should be
switched to "on".
ALSO, the bike seems to be flooded all the time. This is a new development...
it use to start pretty well, but now, I have to hold the throttle open all the
way for the bike to fire.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
it's an enigma.
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: FW: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:27:41 -0000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R
> Sent: 17 February 2000 13:27
> To: 'baglien@access1.net'
> Subject: RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
>
> Hi Steve
>
> We don't get the vacuum petcocks over here, just 'On', 'Reserve' and
> 'Off'. If you ride straight roads you only get to use 1/2 the gas before
> reserve coz there's no balance pipe between the left and right hand sides.
> The gas on the right just relies on slopping about to get to the fuel tap.
> Tip the bike as far to the left as you can without dropping it to get at
> the rest of the gas! I guess the 'Prime' position is set at the same
> level as 'On' on your bike. The reason it won't run on 'On' or 'Reserve'
> is because the rubber diaphragm in the petcock that opens the tap, under
> vacuum from the carb, has perished, and /or you have an air leak along the
> hose from the carb. New rubber should sort the problem!
>
> The bike shouldn't flood no matter what the position of the
> petcock...there's a thing called a needle-valve in the carb which shuts
> off fuel flow when the float gets to the right level, and this is a
> favourite for getting gunged up and sticking open.
>
>
> Good luck!
>
> Andy
>
> Suffolk, England
>
> '96 DR350SES
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: baglien@access1.net [SMTP:baglien@access1.net]
> Sent: 17 February 2000 12:58
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I bought a '94 DR350S that has a 441 kit on it. (disclaimer... I don't
> have
> an actual owners manual, so this may be user error)
>
> Two days ago I was riding the bike and it seemed to run out of gas even
> though
> it had a 1/2 of a tank. I have been riding the bike with the fuel petcock
> on
> "prim" because when I tried riding with it on "ON" the bike died..."out of
> gas".
> I figured at the time the petcock what screwed up. Yesterday I decided to
> try
> to figure out what was going on and I took it apart...the gas line is
> clear,
> so I can see the flow of the gas. The fuel petcock has 3 positions...
> reserve,
> prim, and on... it also have a vacuum lead from the carb. Prim is direct
> fuel
> flow and the other two need the engine to be running in order to activate
> the
> fuel pump in the petcock. When running on prim, I can only seem to use
> about
> 1/2 my fuel... at that point gravity must not be sufficient to supply the
> gas.
> When I start the bike, after running for a while in "reserve" or "on",
> air
> starts getting air into the fuel line. Assuming that the tank is full,
> this
> would seem to imply that the fuel pump is leaking, wouldn't it? I pulled
> the
> petcock to see if there are any restrictions (clogged filter) and that is
> clear.
>
>
> So what is the proper use of the fuel petcock? I'm assuming now, that
> prior
> to starting, it should be placed in "prim", then once started, it should
> be
> switched to "on".
>
> ALSO, the bike seems to be flooded all the time. This is a new
> development...
> it use to start pretty well, but now, I have to hold the throttle open all
> the
> way for the bike to fire.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Steve
>
> it's an enigma.
> ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail!
> http://www.access1.net
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:00:14 -0600
The weather in the Chicago region is beginning to change and in a few more
weeks I'll be able to drag the 350 from storage and start riding once
again.
I bought the bike, a '99 SE, last year and had a great time chugging around
on it but noticed, with my big tail on it, the lack of on demand wheelie
power. I understand that the street/dirt version of this bike has a
slightly different gear ratio than its dirt only brethren. I'd like to
change from the 15/43 (I think that's stock) to a 14/47 and was wondering
how much easier it will be to loft the front wheel over obstacles as
compared to the enormous help I have to give it now. How much of a change
did you notice once you made your gearing change and headed for the woods.
Did you need to replace or lengthen the chain?
I'm not particularly concerned about road performance since I rarely ever
go beyond a town ride when on the street.
I'm probably going to buy Jesse's airbox for it as well which should also
help in the much needed oomph department. Beyond these two changes I don't
see me changing much else this year...well tires...I need a better set of
tires...something for intermediate terrain would be good.
Thanks
Eric
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From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:29:08 -0600
Called U-Haul to get the dimensions, in the conversation he look to see
what West Texas need in the way of trailers, turns out they needed 5X8
most, so he gave me a special price on the 5X8 trailer. I guess there
are some advantages to living in the big city.
Thanks for the info
Bryan
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From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:37:10 -0500
Bryan,
I own a little 4x6 trailer and my 94350SE fits in it perfectly. Therefore,
yours should too, unless it is 4ft long & 6ft wide (then it would have to
be put in sideways :-).
Hestonli
Bryan Ply wrote:
> Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
> out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
> the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
> explain the procedure for taking it off.
>
> Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
> friends house.
>
> Bryan
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length
Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:37:18 -0500
Bryan,
I own a little 4x6 trailer and my 94350SE fits in it perfectly. Therefore,
yours should too, unless it is 4ft long & 6ft wide (then it would have to
be put in sideways :-).
Heston
Bryan Ply wrote:
> Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure
> out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off
> the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone
> explain the procedure for taking it off.
>
> Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a
> friends house.
>
> Bryan
>
> -
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> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 06:37:50 -0800
Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a
tachometer so you can see the rpm's. You will probably have to add a short
section of links to the chain with a master on each end. The chain is
probably an end less one so you will have to grind the riveted head off
flush with the plate then separate it with a chain breaker. Then take the
chain in with you when you go to purchase the master links and short section
of chain so you get the same or compatible parts to match the chain that you
have. The newer masterlinks are a press on type so they have to be pushed on
past the groove where the clip goes. This makes them more secure than the
old ones that we used to deal with. Hope this helps.......Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Eric Myers
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 6:00 AM
The weather in the Chicago region is beginning to change and in a few more
weeks I'll be able to drag the 350 from storage and start riding once
again.
I bought the bike, a '99 SE, last year and had a great time chugging around
on it but noticed, with my big tail on it, the lack of on demand wheelie
power. I understand that the street/dirt version of this bike has a
slightly different gear ratio than its dirt only brethren. I'd like to
change from the 15/43 (I think that's stock) to a 14/47 and was wondering
how much easier it will be to loft the front wheel over obstacles as
compared to the enormous help I have to give it now. How much of a change
did you notice once you made your gearing change and headed for the woods.
Did you need to replace or lengthen the chain?
I'm not particularly concerned about road performance since I rarely ever
go beyond a town ride when on the street.
I'm probably going to buy Jesse's airbox for it as well which should also
help in the much needed oomph department. Beyond these two changes I don't
see me changing much else this year...well tires...I need a better set of
tires...something for intermediate terrain would be good.
Thanks
Eric
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Jasniewicz <ericjazz@bigplanet.com>
Subject: (dr) wheelie gearing
Date: 17 Feb 2000 22:09:09 -0500
don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or
something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying) when
you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length. My KLR wheelies much
easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front. Even in second
gear. Who wudda thunk?
Eric "no problem" J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page
'98 KLR 650 25,000 miles
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) FW: 2000 Utah Get-Together
Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:20:40 -0700
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:56 AM
The 2000 Utah Get-Together will be held in Moab, Utah on June 7,8,9,10. Registration
forms and lodging information is located at http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com/ or
http://www.dualsport.org/
Registration fee includes 3 catered dinners, a reception, door prizes and entertainment.
Join us for 4 days in dual sport heaven.
Gino
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:28:13 -0800
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
> fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a
Eric and Jesse,
My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a
noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I
also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it
this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain,
only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly
with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't
have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve
for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could
determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy
of hp or torque curves for the CA street model?
My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I
don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road
riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is
a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course,
impact your mileage as well.
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: baglien@access1.net
Subject: Re: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
Date: 17 Feb 2000 17:34:49 GMT
Isaac,
Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a try...hopefully
it will take care of the flooding. My guess is that my fuel pump isn't sealing
and is causing air to bleed into the fuel line... creating a version of vacuum
lock.
Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right hand
side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside. I know that on the Calf. bikes, that
goes to an anti pollution device. On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go anywhere
or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank?
Thanks again for your help,
Steve
>I have the manual, and have read about the petcock. You are supposed to
>ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for
>long periods. Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself. "pri" is used
>when you go to COLD start the bike. What it does, is it will allow gas to
>poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for
a
>while. It helps it start quicker. And of course, you know when to use
>reserver : ) So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that
>would probably explain why it is always flooded. Once the bike starts, you
>switch to "on", and leave it there.
>
>Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the
>tube is smaller than usual, so that the free flow to the carb isn't too
>heavy. (that's just a guess ; ) But I don't know why you would be getting
>air bubbles in the gas line while on "on".
>
>
>
>
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) gas flow on a 94 441
Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:37:07 -0800
Hi Steve, first your petcock is set up with a diaphragm that is pulled away
from a seat to allow fuel to flow through to the outlet and down to the
carb. When you shut off the motor you shut down the vacuum and the diaphragm
moves over the seat and shuts off the fuel. The carb has enough fuel
normally to start the engine and activate the diaphragm and resume the fuel
flow. This works the same way on reserve mode. Prime is for when you run out
of fuel for whatever reason to fill the carb float bowl. there is no pump
involved in any of these petcock positions it is all gravity. You have a
partial blockage some where I would suggest looking at the needle and seat
assy. in the carb and check the o'ring on the seat part it gets deteriorated
and can allow fuel to bypass the valve or come apart and plug things up also
check the petcock for inside debris by removing it from the fuel tank. Try
these things and let me know how you make out......Jesse PS I used to work
for hp at the Santa Clara plant
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Eric Jasniewicz
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:09 PM
don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or
something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying) when
you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length. My KLR wheelies much
easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front. Even in second
gear. Who wudda thunk?
Eric "no problem" J
www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page
'98 KLR 650 25,000 miles
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441
Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:12:05 -0800
Hi Steve, Carb kit, yes I can dial it for the 441 the advantages are an
accelerator pump for instant response, and you have control of the slide vs
vacuum as on the cv carb. You can adjust it in the mid range (needle has 5
slots) It can be bored out to 35 mm which works especially well on big bore
engines this works extremely well with the Vortex as it gives much better
flow to feed the larger displacement engine. All engines are the same in
respect to the piston running up and down in a cylinder it is how you feed
the engine that makes a difference. The clutch arm should work just fine on
your 94 DRS it gives you more leverage for an easier pull. That picture on
my website shows where it sets at rest prior to actuating the clutch. Try
some of these things an see if it corrects your fuel delivery
problem.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of baglien@access1.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:35 AM
Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com
Isaac,
Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a
try...hopefully
it will take care of the flooding. My guess is that my fuel pump isn't
sealing
and is causing air to bleed into the fuel line... creating a version of
vacuum
lock.
Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right
hand
side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside. I know that on the Calf. bikes,
that
goes to an anti pollution device. On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go
anywhere
or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank?
Thanks again for your help,
Steve
>I have the manual, and have read about the petcock. You are supposed to
>ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for
>long periods. Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself. "pri" is used
>when you go to COLD start the bike. What it does, is it will allow gas to
>poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for
a
>while. It helps it start quicker. And of course, you know when to use
>reserver : ) So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that
>would probably explain why it is always flooded. Once the bike starts, you
>switch to "on", and leave it there.
>
>Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the
>tube is smaller than usual, so that the free flow to the carb isn't too
>heavy. (that's just a guess ; ) But I don't know why you would be
getting
>air bubbles in the gas line while on "on".
>
>
>
>
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:27:48 -0800
Hi Wayne, Sorry I don't have the torque curve for the CA street model I
would like to have that gear calc thing though whenever you have time. I
think you have a better idea by just changing the counter's it would be much
easier and you can find what you like with out so much complexity.
regards Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:28 AM
Cc: Eric Myers; 'dr350'
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
> fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have
a
Eric and Jesse,
My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a
noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I
also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it
this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain,
only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly
with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't
have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve
for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could
determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy
of hp or torque curves for the CA street model?
My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I
don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road
riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is
a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course,
impact your mileage as well.
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
-
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"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 11:02:40 -0800
----- Original Message -----
Cc: "Eric Myers" <emyers@mc.net>; "'dr350'" <dr@lists.xmission.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:27 AM
> Hi Wayne, Sorry I don't have the torque curve for the CA street model I
> would like to have that gear calc thing though whenever you have time.
Gear Calc can be downloaded from http://www.ironjungle.com/ It really is a
neat program.
Tell Pat that I sent you.
Fred Hink
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
Arrowhead Motorsports
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148
Moab, Utah
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 12:18:00 -0600
I'll probably start with a counter change first and see what kind of change
I get since that would definately be the easiest route.
As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front tire
easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of it.
I imagine that the shortened gearing would give the bike a much needed
boost in this arena. It would be nice to just just grab a handful of
throttle, as opposed to coaxing the wheel into the air by bouncing the
front suspension followed by big arm tug, to loft it up...maybe it's just
me?
I'm not to worried about highway use since, IMO, highway use is marginal at
best for the DR350 in stock form anyway. Generally, if I'm riding on the
street, it's just to putter over to a gas station, run a quick errand, or
check out the local sites. The times I've taken it out onto the roads and
rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars
trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning.
I debated heavily the option of major suspension mods and a big bore kit,
but, won't go this route since the monies spent on those modifications
would be better spent on a different or more capable motorcycle. Further,
I'm a major spode when it comes to offroad riding (which I really enjoy
these days) and probably wouldn't benefit much from the upgrades.
I'm rambling...thanks for the suggestions
Eric
99 Suzuki DR350SE (mine)
89 Yamaha XT350 (wife's)
98 Honda VTR1000F (mine)
98 Honda XR70R (son's)
----------
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 10:28 AM
Cc: Eric Myers; 'dr350'
"Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote:
>
> Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be
> fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have
a
"Wayne Marsula" wrote:
Eric and Jesse,
My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a
noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I
also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it
this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain,
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 10:39:12 -0800
Eric,
I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds
riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft
sprocket to do this:
> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front tire
> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of it.
>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and
> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars
> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning.
At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear
for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and
since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be
even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on
the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to,
and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th
would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you
may not gain anything there either.
You said "maybe it's just me", and I think it is, that you may be
expecting too much from a 350. Personally I don't have any trouble
passing at 60 with the 43/14, and not too much difficulty at 43/15. You
should be already "planning ahead" when you ride, and doing so makes
passing much easier. "Pre-planning", as you call it, IS necessary when
riding a bike of this size. If I think I'm going to be in those
situations, I take my BMW R100GSPD and leave it in fifth to pass at 60
;o)>.
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:15:14 -0600
Wayne,
I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all.
The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the
risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention.
I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is
just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to
take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible.
Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been
riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around
8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in
others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage
and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty
confident in my "good driver" ability.
To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd
or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is
left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this
speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the
ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability
to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this
quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it
marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles
with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are
forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while
waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear.
When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a
handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the
first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt.
Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers
Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something.
Wayne Marsula Wrote:
Eric,
I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds
riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft
sprocket to do this:
> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front
tire
> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of
it.
>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and
> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars
> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning.
At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear
for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and
since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be
even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on
the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to,
and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th
would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you
may not gain anything there either.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 14:33:51 EST
Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want to
hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies)
I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock bike
on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have
crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the
passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change the
rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want
two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again (bypassing
some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty
times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and damn
scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road. I
haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it was
very confidence inspiring.
Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way.
Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not
helping the situation.
Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a much,
much better off road machine.
Scott
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:37:20 -0600
Eric,
You can always use the 'express lane' to pass (aka the shoulder), at
least they do around Dallas. :) Probably not the best option, but its an
option.
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:44:14 -0600
I had the no wheelie syndrome as well. I changed gearing to 14/44 and cut
the top out of the airbox, problem fixed. I weigh 205 and about 220 with
all the gear. I to have a 99 DR350 but it is the dirt only model. My buddy
bought a 00' XR400 last week and my bike held right with his and I thought
the throttle response on my DR was much better than the XR. I'm also a fan
of the 6 speed tranny. The XR does beat the DR suspension wise though.
Since riding his I plan on getting a hold of Jesse here in the near future
for stiffer springs front and rear (how much am I looking at here Jesse?)
Chris 99' Doc350x
> -----Original Message-----
> From: USSergeant@aol.com [SMTP:USSergeant@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 1:34 PM
> To: emyers@mc.net; dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>
> Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want
> to
> hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies)
> I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock
> bike
> on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have
> crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the
> passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change
> the
> rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want
>
> two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again
> (bypassing
> some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty
> times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and
> damn
> scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road.
> I
> haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it
> was
> very confidence inspiring.
> Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way.
>
> Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not
>
> helping the situation.
> Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a
> much,
> much better off road machine.
>
> Scott
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Pablo" <Dual-Sport@ctv.es>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 23:19:53 +0100
Here you have the graphic with the speeds and rpm of a Suzuki DR350SE =B4=
99
(whit original gearing). (made with a program to calculate speed-rpm, loo=
k
in the other section)
http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/catalogoa.htm (here too is it the power o=
f
the Spanish DR in a graphic)
1.6 km/h =3D 1 milles/hour
And here, you have some programs to calculate the speed-rpm-gear
http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/downloadsa.htm
Bye
_______________________________________________
SUZUKI DR350SE
"Ride the winds of change"
The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 17 Feb 2000 16:58:51 -0800
Hi chris , the front triple rate Race Tech kit is $85.00 and if you go the
Kouba link route the 7.6 Eibach spring is the same.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris Tobey
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 11:44 AM
I had the no wheelie syndrome as well. I changed gearing to 14/44 and cut
the top out of the airbox, problem fixed. I weigh 205 and about 220 with
all the gear. I to have a 99 DR350 but it is the dirt only model. My buddy
bought a 00' XR400 last week and my bike held right with his and I thought
the throttle response on my DR was much better than the XR. I'm also a fan
of the 6 speed tranny. The XR does beat the DR suspension wise though.
Since riding his I plan on getting a hold of Jesse here in the near future
for stiffer springs front and rear (how much am I looking at here Jesse?)
Chris 99' Doc350x
> -----Original Message-----
> From: USSergeant@aol.com [SMTP:USSergeant@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 1:34 PM
> To: emyers@mc.net; dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>
> Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want
> to
> hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies)
> I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock
> bike
> on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have
> crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the
> passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change
> the
> rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want
>
> two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again
> (bypassing
> some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty
> times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and
> damn
> scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road.
> I
> haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it
> was
> very confidence inspiring.
> Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way.
>
> Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not
>
> helping the situation.
> Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a
> much,
> much better off road machine.
>
> Scott
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "G. McCumby" <mcc@nccoast.net>
Subject: (dr) Tank bags
Date: 18 Feb 2000 05:58:11 -0500
Is there a tank bag that will work on a DR-650? Would have to
accommodate the vented gas cap.
Jerry McCumby
'00 DR-650
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: baglien@access1.net
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 12:50:17 GMT
If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a look at the White Bro's
441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) is a wheelie monster...
and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM 440 still makes it look like
it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more power than I was expecting.
-Steve
>Wayne,
>
>I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all.
> The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the
>risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention.
> I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is
>just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to
>take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible.
>
>Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been
>riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around
>8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in
>others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage
>and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty
>confident in my "good driver" ability.
>
>To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd
>or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is
>left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this
>speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the
>ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability
>to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this
>quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it
>marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles
>with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are
>forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while
>waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear.
>
>When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a
>handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the
>first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt.
>
>
>Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers
>
>Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something.
>
>Wayne Marsula Wrote:
>
>Eric,
> I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds
>riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft
>sprocket to do this:
>> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front
>tire
>> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of
>it.
>
>>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and
>> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars
>> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning.
>
> At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear
>for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and
>since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be
>even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on
>the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to,
>and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th
>would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you
>may not gain anything there either.
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 05:43:02 -0800
MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a Vortex Airbox....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of baglien@access1.net
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM
If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a look at the White Bro's
441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) is a wheelie
monster...
and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM 440 still makes it look
like
it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more power than I was expecting.
-Steve
>Wayne,
>
>I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all.
> The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the
>risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention.
> I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is
>just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to
>take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible.
>
>Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been
>riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around
>8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in
>others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage
>and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty
>confident in my "good driver" ability.
>
>To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd
>or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is
>left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this
>speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the
>ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability
>to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this
>quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it
>marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles
>with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are
>forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while
>waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear.
>
>When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a
>handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the
>first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt.
>
>
>Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers
>
>Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something.
>
>Wayne Marsula Wrote:
>
>Eric,
> I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds
>riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft
>sprocket to do this:
>> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front
>tire
>> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of
>it.
>
>>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and
>> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars
>> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning.
>
> At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear
>for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and
>since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be
>even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on
>the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to,
>and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th
>would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you
>may not gain anything there either.
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
>
------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags
Date: 18 Feb 2000 06:54:18 -0800
Wolfman makes some good tank bags. You can see the Explorer Tank Bag that I
stock at..
http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/specialtypacks%20pages/explorer.html
Ask Kurt about this bag.
Fred
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:58 AM
>
> Is there a tank bag that will work on a DR-650? Would have to
> accommodate the vented gas cap.
> Jerry McCumby
> '00 DR-650
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags
Date: 18 Feb 2000 10:07:14 -0700
> Wolfman makes some good tank bags. You can see the Explorer Tank Bag that I
> stock at..
> http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/specialtypacks%20pages/explorer.html
> Ask Kurt about this bag.
>
> Fred
George, the Wolman Explorer has a tremendous reputation among the BMW GS crowd. I just
received mine from Fred and it is a very impressive item. I have the IMS tank and Corbin
seat on my bike and it looks like it is going to fit perfectly. I'll let you know more in
about a week when the bike gets put back together.
Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it for a
centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies....
Kurt
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Shayne Seefeldt" <seefeldt@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags
Date: 18 Feb 2000 11:09:23 -0700
mmmmmmmm............center stand.
Shayne "Homer" Seefeldt.
By the way, is there a DR web ring like the klr ring? I'm working on my own
web page.
----------
>From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
>To: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>, "G. McCumby" <mcc@nccoast.net>,
<dr@lists.xmission.com>
>Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags
>Date: Fri, Feb 18, 2000, 10:07 AM
>
> Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it
for a
> centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies....
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 10:31:00 -0800 (PST)
If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441
would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor
with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the
bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that
much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still
the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go.
--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
wrote:
> MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a
> Vortex Airbox....Jesse
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com
> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
> Behalf Of baglien@access1.net
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM
> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
> Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>
>
> If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a
> look at the White Bro's
> 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^)
> is a wheelie
> monster...
> and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM
> 440 still makes it look
> like
> it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more
> power than I was expecting.
>
>
> -Steve
>
> >Wayne,
> >
>>
> >
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags
Date: 18 Feb 2000 11:40:25 -0700
I think you're the one to start it (g)...
Kurt
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shayne Seefeldt [mailto:seefeldt@telusplanet.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 11:09 AM
> To: Kurt Simpson
> Cc: DR List
> Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags
>
>
> mmmmmmmm............center stand.
>
>
> Shayne "Homer" Seefeldt.
>
>
> By the way, is there a DR web ring like the klr ring? I'm working on my own
> web page.
>
>
>
> ----------
> >From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
> >To: "Fred Hink" <moabmc@lasal.net>, "G. McCumby" <mcc@nccoast.net>,
> <dr@lists.xmission.com>
> >Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags
> >Date: Fri, Feb 18, 2000, 10:07 AM
> >
>
> > Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it
> for a
> > centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies....
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Steve and Janet" <baglien@access1.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 15:44:48 -0600
I agree that the air box would constrict air flow... so the one on the bike
has been modified... that is, it has no top. What advantages does the
vortex box have over... um, virtually no air box at all?
Jesse... if you come down to GA and tune my bike for me... I'll race ya! :^)
>If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441
>would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor
>with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the
>bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that
>much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still
>the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go.
>
>--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
>wrote:
>> MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a
>> Vortex Airbox....Jesse
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com
>> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
>> Behalf Of baglien@access1.net
>> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM
>> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
>> Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>>
>>
>> If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a
>> look at the White Bro's
>> 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^)
>> is a wheelie
>> monster...
>> and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM
>> 440 still makes it look
>> like
>> it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more
>> power than I was expecting.
>>
>>
>> -Steve
>>
>> >Wayne,
>> >
>>>
>> >
>with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>> For information on digests or retrieving files and
>> old messages send
>> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
>> your message.
>>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 16:50:52 -0800
Hi Steve, the principal behind the Vortex is to allow the airflow into the
engine with the least amount of restriction possible. the way this works is
first we have an extra large filter element then the still air chamber that
holds a large volume of air within itself. so that when the inlet valves
open there is enough air volume to satisfy the engine without having to pull
it through the air filter also the still air chamber is acoustically
designed to dampen any signs of turbulence which compromises smooth flow the
airbox refills itself during the compression, power and exhaust cycles. So I
would say that the Vortex airbox is superior to an airfilter just on the
carb with no airbox. Hope this answers your questions.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Steve and Janet
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 1:45 PM
I agree that the air box would constrict air flow... so the one on the bike
has been modified... that is, it has no top. What advantages does the
vortex box have over... um, virtually no air box at all?
Jesse... if you come down to GA and tune my bike for me... I'll race ya! :^)
>If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441
>would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor
>with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the
>bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that
>much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still
>the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go.
>
>--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
>wrote:
>> MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a
>> Vortex Airbox....Jesse
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com
>> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
>> Behalf Of baglien@access1.net
>> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM
>> To: dr@lists.xmission.com
>> Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
>>
>>
>> If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a
>> look at the White Bro's
>> 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^)
>> is a wheelie
>> monster...
>> and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM
>> 440 still makes it look
>> like
>> it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more
>> power than I was expecting.
>>
>>
>> -Steve
>>
>> >Wayne,
>> >
>>>
>> >
>with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
>> For information on digests or retrieving files and
>> old messages send
>> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
>> your message.
>>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Comobu@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change
Date: 18 Feb 2000 20:35:19 EST
Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I
love it!
From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better
thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious
sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning
of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because
I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling
sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Greg Lara" <gregl@aptix.com>
Subject: (dr) re: Vortex air box
Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:04:32 -0800
Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite
effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and
travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure)
reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to
the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave
arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the
exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for
more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned
pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no
pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine.
A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air,
lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into
the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air
box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air
carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the
air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the
pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine
takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the
engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned
air box can help cram more air into the engine.
--Greg
DR350SE '94
CR250 '91
XR650LE '94
VFR750 '91
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM
Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being
satisfied...I
love it!
>From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is
better
thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious
sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall
tuning
of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes...
because
I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling
sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
Guy
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box
Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:34:08 -0800
Well put Greg.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Greg Lara
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM
Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite
effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and
travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure)
reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to
the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave
arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the
exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for
more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned
pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no
pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine.
A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air,
lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into
the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air
box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air
carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the
air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the
pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine
takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the
engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned
air box can help cram more air into the engine.
--Greg
DR350SE '94
CR250 '91
XR650LE '94
VFR750 '91
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM
Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being
satisfied...I
love it!
>From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is
better
thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious
sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall
tuning
of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes...
because
I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling
sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
Guy
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar
Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:44:16 -0800
Greetings, all -
Does DualStar have a web page yet? Where are they based, and who carries
their stuff? I live in British Columbia, Canada (eh), so dealers in
Washington State would be deluxe.
Thanks -
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar
Date: 18 Feb 2000 19:26:17 -0800
> Greetings, all -
>
> Does DualStar have a web page yet? Where are they based, and who carries
> their stuff? I live in British Columbia, Canada (eh), so dealers in
> Washington State would be deluxe.
>
> Thanks -
>
> Lisa
They are just south of you (us), near Seattle.
Cheers,
Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: erich@ridgecrest.ca.us
Subject: (dr) Clinton at it again!
Date: 18 Feb 2000 22:18:26 -0800
Clinton is at it again with trying to close off more forest areas. This
time the area is in the Sequoia National Forest. He is trying to put
another 400,000 acres off limits. The stated reason for closing
these areas is to protect sequoia groves outside of the national
park system from logging and other unspecified threats. This
seems to be a bit disingenous becasue of the political firestorm
that would erupt if the Forest Service ever tried to release these
groves for logging.
President Clinton asked Agriculture Secretary Dan Glickman to
make reccomendations within 60 days. Once again the period to
try and influence our elected officals is very short. Unfortunately,
our Senators are not likely to helpful; Diane Feinstein (of Desert
Protection Act fame) and Barbara Boxer (much further to left of
Diane Feinstein). All I can do is ask those of you with more
sympathetic Senators and Congressmen to have them investigate
this new land grab.
If you have ever been in the Kennedy/Troy Meadows OHV area,
parts of it could be threatened with closure. Also a number of
wonderful forest roads in the area will be closed. As most of the
area is currently closed by snow, it could well be gone before any
of us can ride there again.
Thanks
Erich
82 XL185S
92 DR350S
Erich
erich@ridgecrest.ca.us
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box
Date: 19 Feb 2000 10:06:31 -0600
Hey Jesse,
Is there, or is there ever going to be a Vortex air
box for the DR650?
JB
>>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net> 02/18/00 08:34PM
>>>
Well put Greg.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Greg Lara
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM
Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the
opposite
effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port
and
travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low
pressure)
reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back
to
the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative
wave
arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This
encourages the
exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing
for
more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a
tuned
pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with
no
pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine.
A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in
air,
lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes
into
the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the
air
box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing
air
carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside
the
air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the
pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the
engine
takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the
engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a
tuned
air box can help cram more air into the engine.
--Greg
DR350SE '94
CR250 '91
XR650LE '94
VFR750 '91
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM
Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being
satisfied...I
love it!
>From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox
is
better
thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some
mysterious
sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall
tuning
of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes...
because
I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my
spelling
sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
Guy
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Wardlow" <wardlow@teleport.com>
Subject: (dr) 1993 DR 350
Date: 19 Feb 2000 15:05:43 -0800
I have a 93 DR 350 that has been flawless for since the day I bought it new.
I havent rid it in about 6 months and when I went to start it, I broke the
compresion cable. No big deal. I have started it several times with out
one. Well this time I could not get it to start. So I left it alone and
ordered a new cable. After installing the new cable I have found that I
have no compression now. I can crank it over with my hand. After
investigating further I have found that the compression lever on the motor
is some what stiff. So I moved it around by hand and after turning it to
the corect postion for the motor to be running, I have more compresion, but
cn still kick it over with my foot easly. After taking off the caps on the
top of the engine I have found that when I pull the cable and the
decompresion lever opens, after kicking it over, It does not click and go
back to the closed postion. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Mike A Hyers <hyer0573@students.sou.edu>
Subject: Re: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar
Date: 19 Feb 2000 22:18:37 -0800
Lisa,
Dual-star's web site is http://www.dual-star.com/ , unfortunately there
is not much up for dr's yet. It's worth checking out for the klr stuff
though.
Mike
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Iain Wilson <iain.wilson5@virgin.net>
Subject: (dr) Grease specification
Date: 20 Feb 2000 20:04:21 +0000
Hi,
Could I ask which preparation of Castrol grease is best for the
suspension on my 99 DR 350 please?
Thanks,
Iain
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box
Date: 20 Feb 2000 23:56:18 -0800
Hi Jan, I have a fellow that is supposed to bring one over this coming week
to check out the feasability of fitting one up to the late DR650.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jan Bradley
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 8:07 AM
dr350@lists.xmission.com; jesse@rvi.net
Hey Jesse,
Is there, or is there ever going to be a Vortex air
box for the DR650?
JB
>>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net> 02/18/00 08:34PM
>>>
Well put Greg.....Jesse
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Greg Lara
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM
Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the
opposite
effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port
and
travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low
pressure)
reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back
to
the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative
wave
arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This
encourages the
exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing
for
more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a
tuned
pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with
no
pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine.
A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in
air,
lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes
into
the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the
air
box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing
air
carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside
the
air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the
pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the
engine
takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the
engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a
tuned
air box can help cram more air into the engine.
--Greg
DR350SE '94
CR250 '91
XR650LE '94
VFR750 '91
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM
Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being
satisfied...I
love it!
>From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox
is
better
thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some
mysterious
sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall
tuning
of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes...
because
I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my
spelling
sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR!
Guy
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x)
Date: 21 Feb 2000 07:52:55 -0600
Hi list, went riding saturday and had trouble shifting at high rpm's. When
starting from a dead stop and going from 1st gear up to 6th at high rpm's my
bike didn't want to shift. It was usually from 3rd to 4th and from 4th to
5th but sometimes it happened from 2nd to 3rd. Has anyone else experienced
this and if so does anyone know what could cause this? Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks, Chris
99 DR350X
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: andy.doyle@bt.com
Subject: FW: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x)
Date: 21 Feb 2000 14:28:59 -0000
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R
> Sent: 21 February 2000 14:28
> To: 'dr@lists.xmission.com'
> Subject: RE: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x)
>
> I had a severe problem with my gearbox on a trip down to Wales last
> summer. Having covered 1200 miles only able to use 4th, 5th and 6th, and
> those reluctantly, when I got home I took the clutch cover off. There is
> a bolt on the end of the gear selector mechanism which had worked loose.
> Tightening it up (with a bit of Locktite) cured it completely. You can
> get problems finding neutral if the clutch is dragging, but this doesn't
> usually affect other gear changes. If your bike is still under warranty
> let some other bugger fix it!
>
> Cheers!
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Tobey [SMTP:christ@h-jenterprises.com]
> Sent: 21 February 2000 13:53
> To: 350 Mail List (E-mail)
> Subject: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x)
>
> Hi list, went riding saturday and had trouble shifting at high rpm's.
> When
> starting from a dead stop and going from 1st gear up to 6th at high rpm's
> my
> bike didn't want to shift. It was usually from 3rd to 4th and from 4th to
> 5th but sometimes it happened from 2nd to 3rd. Has anyone else
> experienced
> this and if so does anyone know what could cause this? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Chris
> 99 DR350X
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "G. McCumby" <mcc@nccoast.net>
Subject: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:41:14 -0500
There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage
wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can
anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them
about it. Many thanks
Jerry McCumby
Sunset Beach NC
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From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 08:48:36 -0800
HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You
can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have. Ph
541 472-0835
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of G. McCumby
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM
There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage
wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can
anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them
about it. Many thanks
Jerry McCumby
Sunset Beach NC
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: USSergeant@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:52:37 EST
I've seen these trailers you speak of at Home Depot, Builders Square,
Hechingers. Never tried one out, but it may do the trick...
Scott
99 dr350se
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Minh Lang <minhlang@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:51:00 -0800 (PST)
I have a Kendon 3-rail stand-up trailer. I paid $1400 for it
last year (with the optional spare tire, jack stand,
and wider rail for either a dirt/street bike in the center rail).
Their web site is www.kendontrailers.com.
= Minh =
96 DR-350SE
97 Honda CBR-1100xx
96 Suzuki Bandit 600
--- "G. McCumby" <mcc@nccoast.net> wrote:
>
> There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage
> wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can
> anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them
> about it. Many thanks
> Jerry McCumby
> Sunset Beach NC
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200
Hi guys Thanks Andy and Jan
My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought)
Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
How painful is the process,would it be really
expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
That leads to my second question, is it possible or easy to
push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual
de-compression lever.
I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead
battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike would
push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate moments)
Thanks
Mikko Vimpari
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 21 Feb 2000 15:01:22 -0800 (PST)
I have push started my 350SE after running the battery
dead in the woods.I had the help of two guys to push
it up a hill for me to go back down and pop it in 2nd
gear.
--- mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
wrote:
> Hi guys Thanks Andy
> and Jan
>
> My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery
> is a worrying thought)
> Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
> How painful is the process,would it be really
> expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
>
> That leads to my second question, is it possible or
> easy to
> push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual
> de-compression lever.
> I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead
> battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike
> would
> push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate
> moments)
>
> Thanks
>
> Mikko Vimpari
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!!
Date: 21 Feb 2000 15:24:15 -0800 (PST)
My buddy just picked up a brand spankin new XR
400.What a nice machine it is well more worthy of dirt
in stock form than the DR(350).well as I was sure
would happen when we went for a road cruise we had to
punch off.I figured he would not have any trouble
putting some bike lengths on me.Well I was wrong my
bike is a ball hair slower than his.Jesse's Vortex
airbox was shining like a diamond today.We went at it
twice he barely creeped on me at about 65mph the first
run.The second time I wacked the throttle when he did
and we ran dead even to about 70!!Now of course his
bike is 100% stock and will get a couple of horseys
after break in but I was very pleased.I have Jesse's
Vortex airbox,JX needle and spring kit an FMF
powercore4 muffler,and a 147.5 main jet.This combo
will wake a stock 350 up like a son of a gun.It comes
dam close to an XR 400.My biggest gains in my opinion
comes from the well breathing airbox it's worth every
last dime.You would indeed be shocked at the snap it
gives the bike.Suzuki did a piss poor job on the stock
one.The Honda's suspension is out of this world.I will
still take him to school in the woods though as he is
not YET a good rider.
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Swamprider" <wdsrc@gte.net>
Subject: (dr) Georgia Dual Sport Ride
Date: 21 Feb 2000 18:34:13 -0500
You can download a copy (MS Word format) of the entry form for the 2000
edition of the Chattahoochee Forest Dual Sport Ride, in Suches GA on June
10/11 at the website of the organization that brings you dual sporting
southern style, the WDSRC!
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
While you're there, go to the ride reviews and check out the story and
pictures from last years "Hooch"!
Entry is limited to 100 due to the forestry department, and this event fills
up quickly! Last year it filled in 20 days thanks to the WDSRC!
So go check it out, it's some of the prettiest riding in the southeast! And
while your at it, check out the rest of the website, we think you'll be
impressed at what's happening in the Southeast!
Robert Frey
Founder: WDSRC
Editor: Southern Dual Sporter Newsletter
"Loud Pipes Risk Rights! Be Responsible, Be Quiet!"
wdsrc@gte.net
Visit The WDSRC Website at
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Doug B <dbragg@seatac.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 09:58:53 -0800
Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local rides
because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping
trips that involve riding.
The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at:
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm
Doug
94 350SE
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:49 AM
HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You
can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have.
Ph
541 472-0835
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of G. McCumby
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM
There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage
wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can
anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them
about it. Many thanks
Jerry McCumby
Sunset Beach NC
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers
Date: 21 Feb 2000 20:21:20 -0600
That Trailer rocks! I've got a 5x10 enclosed trailer to haul our three
motorcycles and have thought about adding some shelving and boxes to better
hold our camp gear. I'm always looking for some good ideas to improve it.
Eric
----------
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 11:58 AM
Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local rides
because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping
trips that involve riding.
The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at:
http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm
Doug
94 350SE
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:49 AM
HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You
can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have.
Ph
541 472-0835
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of G. McCumby
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM
There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage
wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can
anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them
about it. Many thanks
Jerry McCumby
Sunset Beach NC
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Arne Larsen" <nookie@telus.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers
Date: 22 Feb 2000 01:22:37 -0800
> Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local
rides
> because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping
> trips that involve riding.
> The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at:
> http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm
>
> Doug
> 94 350SE
Hey Doug, what are the interior dimensions of that trailer of yours?
Cheers,
Arne
KLR650 Listmeister
Eh 13
www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage
http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chris Tobey <christ@h-jenterprises.com>
Subject: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:07:27 -0600
I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I
had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the
compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks,
should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them
to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the
proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special
tools or tricks needed to do the job?
Thanks in advance, Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Dhchas@cs.com
Subject: Re: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!!
Date: 22 Feb 2000 11:09:25 EST
John,
Thanks for the report. I am curious if you have checked your mileage with
your current set-up. With my stock set-up and an Acerbis 4.5 gal. tank, my
bike gets about 54 mpg on the highway and 65 mpg off road. I have well over
200 miles on tap, regardless of the conditions, which is always reassuring.
It seems that the mods you have done are a nice way to go for some additional
snap.
Harral Chastain
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) fork oil change (DR350)
Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:20:00 -0800
HI Chris, first make sure that you have a socket the best choice, or a
large crescent wrench default choice that will fit the hex on the fork cap
(channel lock pliers not a choice). Prior to attempting to loosen the fork
cap you will have to loosen the two top pinch bolts only. remove the weight
from the front wheel then you can loosen the fork cap. Once the fork cap is
loose you can remove the front wheel you can now loosen the bottom pinch
bolts and the front brake caliper bolts then slide the fork down and out of
the triple clamps. Once you remove the cap you will have to separate it from
the damper rod that is screwed into it and a locking nut is on the damper
rod tightened up against the cap that must be loosened prior to unscrewing
the cap from the damper rod. Once you get the cap off pull out the spring
and collapse the fork assembly and measure the level of the oil from the top
edge of the fork tube. This will give you a base level and you can go from
there when you refill them with new oil I usually go with a 5 and one half
inches. You can now dump out the oil and pump the forks until all the oil is
removed. Fill the forks with a light cartridge fork oil 7and one half wt
Maxima or motul are good choices this measurement thing is always done with
the spring out and totally collapsed mode you must pump the forks up and
down until every thing is filled inside prior to measuring the oil level.
Once the level is established you can reinstall the spring after you pull up
the damper rod attach the rod to the cap and screw it in all the way then
lock the locking nut up against the cap and screw the cap into the top of
the fork tube just snug the cap into the fork tube it will not loosen up
once the pinch bolts are tight. Now you know what you are facing with the
second fork if you have more Questions give me call or e-mail.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris Tobey
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 6:07 AM
I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I
had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the
compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks,
should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them
to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the
proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special
tools or tricks needed to do the job?
Thanks in advance, Chris
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Greg Lara" <gregl@aptix.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 22 Feb 2000 09:01:05 -0800
I bump start my '94 DR350SE all the time. I am afraid of running the battery
down when in the wilderness. When I get ready to kill the motor, I try to
make sure that I stop uphill. I just coast downhill in 2nd gear to start her
back up. I save the battery for the times when I crash or stall in a
position that does not allow me to bump start the bike.
I have push started the bike by myself on pavement, but it is very
difficult. I think it would not be possible on a flat dirt road or trail.
--Greg
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:53 PM
Hi guys Thanks Andy and Jan
My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought)
Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
How painful is the process,would it be really
expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
That leads to my second question, is it possible or easy to
push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual
de-compression lever.
I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead
battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike would
push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate moments)
Thanks
Mikko Vimpari
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 22 Feb 2000 22:08:29 +0200
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 22 Feb 2000 23:10:27 +0200
Sorry, i forgot to mention, of course i was talking about the bike with a
dead battery
Mikko
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 10:08 PM
> Thanks for replying guys
>
> I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
> Is that automatic decompression system connected
> to the starter knob?
> If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
> and same time press the starter knob( that would
> activate decompression system),so bike would
> start easier.
> I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
> wrong.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Mikko Vimpari
>
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Hoge, Neill" <Neill.Hoge@mail.va.gov>
Subject: (dr) High Idle
Date: 22 Feb 2000 18:55:29 -0500
Hi list,
Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I
bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from
soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging
trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married,
12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all
stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't
go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned
here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to
the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side
and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm
convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle
when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no
good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will
slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are
related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in
snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is
plugged with mud or something?
Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 22 Feb 2000 17:57:19 -0800
HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built into
the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression will be
relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the cam
disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) High Idle
Date: 22 Feb 2000 18:17:40 -0800
Hi Hoge, I would say check your cables and make sure your choke is pushed in
all the way. Try reaching in and pushing the carb wheel that the cables are
attached to to the closed position. The carb can get a little scuzzy under
the black top cover also. It should snap back with authority when you open
the throttle and just let it go. You might also check the throttle assembly
and make sure it is free and about 1/8 inch away from the handlebar end.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Hoge, Neill
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 3:55 PM
Hi list,
Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I
bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from
soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging
trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married,
12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all
stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't
go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned
here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to
the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side
and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm
convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle
when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no
good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will
slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are
related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in
snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is
plugged with mud or something?
Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all.
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: X5Worms@aol.com
Subject: (dr) New member
Date: 23 Feb 2000 03:36:22 EST
Hello everyone.
Just like to introduce myself and thank Arne Larsen from the KLR list for
referring me over here. I recently bought a 95 DR650. After 16 years of
riding, this is the first dual sport I've owned. Too bad I didn't get one
earlier, they certainly are alot of fun. Though at the moment, the bike is
in need of new steering head bearings. Any advice as to the type of bearings
I should use???
EVAN
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Owners
Date: 23 Feb 2000 12:25:14 -0000
Hi !
I am trying to find a DR350 discussion lists - is this the only one or can
anyone suggest another ?
Thanks
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Eric Myers <emyers@mc.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Owners
Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:49:39 -0600
It's the only DR list I've ever found. Have a question, comment, etc, post it.
Eric
----------
I am trying to find a DR350 discussion lists - is this the only one or can
anyone suggest another ?
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 08:46:07 -0600
Jesse,
Is the '98 DR650SE this way too? I wonder about push
starting mine. I know there was no way to push start my old '92 DR650.
No matter what gear, the rear wheel would just slide, but it had the
manual comp release. Just a thought since I have no kick start lever
either.
JB
>>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net> 02/22/00 07:57PM
>>>
HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built
into
the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression
will be
relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the
cam
disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 06:57:30 -0800
Hi Jan, if I said yes it would be an educated guess. Since this this newer
engine is based on the same design as the 350 I would think that it would be
the same. However I have not had one apart or seen the manual so I cannot
say for sure. You could try starting it on a hill just to check it out
though.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jan Bradley
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 6:46 AM
Jesse,
Is the '98 DR650SE this way too? I wonder about push
starting mine. I know there was no way to push start my old '92 DR650.
No matter what gear, the rear wheel would just slide, but it had the
manual comp release. Just a thought since I have no kick start lever
either.
JB
>>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net> 02/22/00 07:57PM
>>>
HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built
into
the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression
will be
relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the
cam
disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of mikko vimpari
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM
Thanks for replying guys
I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but....
Is that automatic decompression system connected
to the starter knob?
If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever
and same time press the starter knob( that would
activate decompression system),so bike would
start easier.
I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally
wrong.
Many thanks
Mikko Vimpari
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) New member
Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:14:51 -0800
Hi Evan just remove them and take them to your local bearing supply house.
The races may be a little difficult to remove from the steering head and the
lower steering stem If they are free of any pits rust or corrosion you may
get away with just the tapered bearings. I would not recommend this on wheel
bearings but the amount of movement on the steering is so slight it is not
as critical a situation due to the fact that they are not heated up like
wheel bearings. Use a good boat trailer wheel bearing grease on them during
replacement this will protect them from moisture.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of X5Worms@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 12:36 AM
Hello everyone.
Just like to introduce myself and thank Arne Larsen from the KLR list for
referring me over here. I recently bought a 95 DR650. After 16 years of
riding, this is the first dual sport I've owned. Too bad I didn't get one
earlier, they certainly are alot of fun. Though at the moment, the bike is
in need of new steering head bearings. Any advice as to the type of
bearings
I should use???
EVAN
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jonathan Moon <jlmoon@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) Used DR350 price?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:40:43 -0800 (PST)
Hey there listers:
I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never
showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt
go through.
I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles
on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least
the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but
does anyone know what kind of price range I should be
looking at?
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Used DR350 price?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:46:44 -0800
Hi Jonathon, maybe $1200 to $1500 Check it out good.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jonathan Moon
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 7:41 AM
Hey there listers:
I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never
showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt
go through.
I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles
on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least
the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but
does anyone know what kind of price range I should be
looking at?
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar)
Subject: Re: (dr) Used DR350 price?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 10:51:39 -0500
6K miles is very low for a 1990 bike -- may have set for a long time (not
necessarily good for a bike). Make sure to give it a thorough test ride
and have someone who knows these bikes to check it out. If all is in
good condition, I would say around $1300-1400. Check out
http://www.kellysbluebook.com/ also -- gives prices for trade-in & retail
of bikes, cars, etc. by year and area of country.
Heston
94350SE
Jonathan Moon wrote:
> Hey there listers:
> I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never
> showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt
> go through.
>
> I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles
> on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least
> the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but
> does anyone know what kind of price range I should be
> looking at?
>
> =====
> Jonathan L. Moon
> Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
> University of Georgia
>
> Voice (706)-542-1713
> Fax (706)-542-3719
> email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Archives
Date: 23 Feb 2000 16:21:28 -0000
Hi - could someone please help me with retrieving the archives ?
I have got the index but the get command doesn't work as it is not obvious
which filenames to use.
Here's the first few lines....
total 8
drwxrwxr-x 2 domo domo 4096 Feb 22 19:20 archive
./archive:
total 3096
-rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 254363 Jan 31 11:56 dr.200001
-rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 465351 Feb 23 08:52 dr.200002
Thanks !
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Dhchas@cs.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Used DR350 price?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 12:43:42 EST
In a message dated 2/23/00 7:42:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, jlmoon@yahoo.com
writes:
<< Hey there listers:
I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never
showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt
go through.
I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles
on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least
the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but
does anyone know what kind of price range I should be
looking at? >>
You are in luck Jonathan. Motorcycle Consumer News just published their
spring used bike value guide. Full retail for the bike you are looking at is
listed at $1600. This price represents a stock motorcycle in either
reconditioned or clean undamaged, well-maintained condition. Damaged or
otherwise non-working parts would lower the price, useful accessories could
raise it. Recently replaced wear items such as tires or a bad clutch, etc.
do not affect the price. However, worn out tires, frayed cables, slipping
clutch, torn seat cover, etc. would definitely lower the price. Hope this
helps
Harral Chastain
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <lgeromil@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE kickstart?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 22:12:53 +0000 (:)
Hi Mikko,
I just installed one for my '96 SE two weeks ago. I used some old Parts of my '91 DRS.
you'll need:
- kickstart
- kickstart-shaft with spring
- shaft-sealing for the clutch-cover
- a little piece of steel is fixed to the aluminum-housing by 2 screws
- sprocket between kickstart-shaft and clutch
You'll have to dismount the clutch to get the sprocket in.
The clutch-fixing-nut was loose (held only by the sheet-metal) an all three stock-engines
i dismounted. This seems to be a weak point, so check it out.
the parts are about 2kg additional weight. I did it for 2 reasons:
1. my battery is weak
2. i had the parts in my garage and wanted to know if they fit :-)
greets from germany
Ludwig
http://www.ccwn.org/~lgeromil/motorrad/dr350e.htm
On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:
>My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought)
>Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
>How painful is the process,would it be really
>expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "James Alan Tomkins" <tomkins@epix.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) Used DR350 price?
Date: 23 Feb 2000 19:00:05 -0500
Jonathan:
If you want a guide, Kelly Blue Book found at www.kbb.com gives both trade
in and retail prices for recreational vehicles (including motorcycles).
They list the 1992 DR350 at $1290. I've found the site to be pretty good as
a standard from which to start.
Jim Tomkins
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
1998 DR650SEW
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jonathan Moon
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:41 AM
Hey there listers:
I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never
showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt
go through.
I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles
on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least
the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but
does anyone know what kind of price range I should be
looking at?
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" <lisab@mountain-inter.net>
Subject: (dr) used DR350
Date: 23 Feb 2000 17:22:31 -0800
Hey, Jonathan -
Just over a year ago, I bought a used DR650 that had sat a while (of course,
the dealer assured me that it had been stored properly ...) When the bike
started running poorly, I found that the tank was riddled with rust inside,
necessitating the use of a POR-15 3-step tank resurfacing kit. Be sure to
check this out. Mine had rust along the bottom of the 'hips' as well as on
the top of the tank. Applying the kit is more of a time-consumer than
anything, but without it the resulting spooge will clog your jets.
Lisa
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: (dr) DR650SE Throttle tube
Date: 23 Feb 2000 19:55:10 -0600
Does anyone know if an aftermarket (metal etc) throttle tube is
available for the DR650SE? As you all know, the factory one has the grip
molded to it. I can get it off, it's just a pain in the you know what.
Jesse?
Thanks..
JB
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From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR650SE Throttle tube
Date: 23 Feb 2000 18:42:18 -0800 (PST)
---I just took mine off my 350SE.I used my dremel with
a sanding drum it made short work of this otherwise
timely task.One other brief piont you guys make sure
you keep your cables(throttle,clutch)lubed up good.I
just did mine and I must say it brought it back to
"buttery smooth".
--- Jan Bradley <jan.bradley@medtronic.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know if an aftermarket (metal etc)
> throttle tube is
> available for the DR650SE? As you all know, the
> factory one has the grip
> molded to it. I can get it off, it's just a pain in
> the you know what.
> Jesse?
> Thanks..
>
> JB
>
> -
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> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
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From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 24 Feb 2000 11:56:34 +0200
Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info
Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too.
One guy told me that G=F6tz enduro market has a big
18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis)
gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know
anything about that tank, or has that G=F6tz any homepage.
Thanks and greetings from Finland
Mikko
PS: Thank you for the good DR 350 homepages Ludwig and Pablo.
----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Ludwig Geromiller <lgeromil@gmx.de>
net>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 12:12 AM
> Hi Mikko,
>
> I just installed one for my '96 SE two weeks ago. I used some old P=
arts of
my '91 DRS.
> you'll need:
> - kickstart
> - kickstart-shaft with spring
> - shaft-sealing for the clutch-cover
> - a little piece of steel is fixed to the aluminum-housing by 2 scr=
ews
> - sprocket between kickstart-shaft and clutch
> You'll have to dismount the clutch to get the sprocket in.
> The clutch-fixing-nut was loose (held only by the sheet-metal) an a=
ll
three stock-engines
> i dismounted. This seems to be a weak point, so check it out.
>
> the parts are about 2kg additional weight. I did it for 2 reasons:
> 1. my battery is weak
> 2. i had the parts in my garage and wanted to know if they fit :-)
>
> greets from germany
> Ludwig
>
> http://www.ccwn.org/~lgeromil/motorrad/dr350e.htm
>
>
> On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:
>
> >My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying t=
hought)
> >Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE.
> >How painful is the process,would it be really
> >expensive operation.What are the parts you need.
>
>
>
> -
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages se=
nd
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 24 Feb 2000 06:18:13 -0800
mikko vimpari wrote:
>
> Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info
>
> Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too.
> One guy told me that G÷tz enduro market has a big
> 18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis)
> gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know
> anything about that tank, or has that G÷tz any homepage.
>
> Thanks and greetings from Finland
> Mikko
> PS: Thank you for the good DR 350 homepages Ludwig and Pablo.
>
Mikko,
Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25 U.S.
gallons.
Wayne
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) DR350 Opinion
Date: 24 Feb 2000 15:28:02 -0000
Ludwig, (and other DR350 owners)
I had a look at your website and found it useful and interesting. I have
owned my '98 DR350SE for two years now and think its a great bike after 10k
miles of trail riding. As a new member to this list I hope no-one minds if I
share my thoughts on the bike.
As a background I am British living in the South of England, 34 married 3
kids.
I love the DR even though I know it is a compromise and there are better
bikes out there. I like its simplicity and general feeling of toughness and
reliability. Mine is the black model which I think looks really nice and not
as dated as the basic design. I use 14/43 gearing generally which is the
best compromise I've found for trail riding. The 15/43 is good for road use
but the engine loses its lively acceleration. With 14/43 you can still
cruise at 70mph which is fast enough for the roads I use. A top speed of
about 85 on the flat.
You cannot expect too much from a 350cc bike, but it is certainly not slow,
overtaking cars never a problem. Surprising amount of revs available if you
want to go quickly. Off-road the rear tire normally limits how fast you can
accelerate - when its wet you can just keep shifting up and make use of the
low end torque. With a bit of practice you can pull third gear wheelies
forever which is impressive for an electric start four-stroke.
A friend with a low mileage 94 model rode my bike and was surprised at how
much quicker mine is - does anyone know of any subtle improvements over the
years?
Most of my riding is in mud, and in the Summer, slightly drier mud ! There
is no doubt the DR is heavier than a two stroke but I love the sound, feel
and torque of the DR. You only notice the weight when its really wet. I use
a modest Chen Shin trail tire on the back - its about the same grip as an
MT21 (itself not a very good tire for mud anyway), but much cheaper. And you
can abuse it on gravel and tarmac without being concerned about the cost -
fun ! On the front the bigger the knobs the better.
The mud wrecks the bike. The original chain somehow lasted 8k miles with
about 3 front sprockets, brake pads can disappear in less than 1000 miles !
Front tires last ages probably because the front brake is not very powerful,
rears 2-3k mls. I keep the rear linkage well greased and regularly drop the
wheels out to dry and grease the bearing seals. The throttle cable needs
regular oiling but I made a shield to stop water spraying over the
carburetor and cable ends which has helped immensely. Fuel consumption very
good - four hours on a tank full usually.
Other than wear and tear items the bike has been completely reliable.
Synthetic oil reduces clutch drag and keeps the gear change smooth.
Clutchless up-changes smooth anyway. Starting no problem with the button,
even after, ahem, falling off. After more than about two weeks storage the
float bowl must be drained and re-filled or starting is not so good. I've
kept the bike near to standard as I'm not a great believer in heavily
modifying bikes. If you want more power get a bigger bike - it will be more
reliable. I am confident that I can give the DR loads of abuse and it will
keep going for many years.
I also have a KLX650 - more power, especially at high speed. Much heavier
off-road
And KMX125 two-smoker- almost as fast ! (if thrashed), much lighter. More
thirsty....
But for 95% of the time the DR is easily my fave.
I wrote an email on trail riding in the UK if anyone is interested. Perhaps
I'll post it if no-one objects.
Sorry for the length of my ramblings but I am quite passionate about my
trail-riding !
Steve
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <lgeromil@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Opinion
Date: 24 Feb 2000 22:38:31 +0000 (:)
On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 15:28:02 -0000, Copsey, Stephen J (Steve) wrote:
>I had a look at your website and found it useful and interesting. I have
Thanks a lot. Maybe you can give me some tips regarding the translation :-) My english
is a bit rusty...
>I love the DR even though I know it is a compromise and there are better
>bikes out there. I like its simplicity and general feeling of toughness and
>reliability. ...
>I use 14/43 gearing generally which is the
>best compromise I've found for trail riding. The 15/43 is good for road use
>but the engine loses its lively acceleration. With 14/43 you can still
>cruise at 70mph which is fast enough for the roads I use. A top speed of
>about 85 on the flat.
You got the point. The stock gearing of 15/43 is for noise-laws.
My DR has a little switch on the carb which will change the ignitiontime in 2nd and 3rd
gear at full acceleration, just to keep the bike quiet in one specific noise-test at around
50 kph. The first thing i did as i got the bike was unplugging this switch :-)
>A friend with a low mileage 94 model rode my bike and was surprised at how
>much quicker mine is - does anyone know of any subtle improvements over the
>years?
No. I feel like my '91 DRS went significantly faster than my '96 DR SE inspite the '96 has
30 hp and the old '91 27hp in the papers. The exhaust got bigger, the weight got more
with electric start.
The 27hp in the papers might be because of an old restriction here in germany for
driving-license newbies. There was a limit for power/weight ratio, wich wouldn't allow to
drive the DR350 with more than 27hp. :-))
Regarding the Chen Shin tires: Good tip. I'll check where i can get some. How much are
they in your area?
>The mud wrecks the bike. The original chain somehow lasted 8k miles with
>about 3 front sprockets, brake pads can disappear in less than 1000 miles !
This depends on the stuff you are driving in. Two years ago i lost a set of brakepads in
one day (about 200 mls) in Senftenberg, Lausitz, south of Berlin. The area is full of sand
sith some brown-coal in it. The weather was rainy/snowy and the sand/coal/water mix
ate my newworthy brakepads in one single day.
>I wrote an email on trail riding in the UK if anyone is interested. Perhaps
>I'll post it if no-one objects.
Please go on!
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From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <lgeromil@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 24 Feb 2000 22:06:17 +0000 (:)
Mikko,
i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good this t=
ank fits or if it is
stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only abo=
ut 15 Liters.
G=F6tz is here in south-germany, Bisingen, just about 200 km from here.
G=F6tz has no Internet-site and the catalog i ordered 4 weeks ago has st=
ill not arrived...
They seem to be NOT very reliable (*:
I will inform you about the tank as soon as i get my catalog.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:56:34 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote:
>Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info
>
>Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too.
>One guy told me that G=F6tz enduro market has a big
>18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis)
>gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know
>anything about that tank, or has that G=F6tz any homepage.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus)
Subject: (dr) Re:plastic tanks
Date: 24 Feb 2000 15:56:05 -0600
>> Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25 U.S.
Be sure to find out much of the fuel is useable without having to lay the bike down on it's
side to get to the fuel that wont cross over.
--
Best Regards & Happy Trails
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
Y2KLR650 @ 2.9K sMiles
97 R11RA (Amiga) @ 11.6K Miles
So Many Roads, So Little Time
http://members.deltech.net/aches/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 24 Feb 2000 14:16:14 -0800
Ludwig Geromiller wrote:
>
> Mikko,
>
> i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good this tank fits or if it is
> stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only about 15 Liters.
Mikko and all,
According to the advertisement for the tanks, the IMS is not as large
as the Acerbis. The Acerbis is 4.25 U.S. gallons. I also feel that it is
stronger than the IMS, but don't know if that is an issue.
Wayne
--
Wayne Marsulß, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: rherrscher@Opto22.com
Subject: RE: (dr) Re:plastic tanks
Date: 24 Feb 2000 14:40:28 -0800
Hi Andy,
That was a good thought. I have wondered why the tank manufacurers do
not put a hose barb on both sides of the tank. Then after mounting the
tank on the bike, you could connect a piece of fuel line between the two
hose barbs, which would act as an equalizer between the sides of the
tank, and allow you to use all of the fuel in the tank.
Best Regards,
Roger Herrscher
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 2:04 PM
<< File: header.txt >>
>> Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25
U.S.
Be sure to find out much of the fuel is useable without having to lay the
bike down on it's
side to get to the fuel that wont cross over.
--
Best Regards & Happy Trails
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
Y2KLR650 @ 2.9K sMiles
97 R11RA (Amiga) @ 11.6K Miles
So Many Roads, So Little Time
http://members.deltech.net/aches/
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Re:plastic tanks
Date: 24 Feb 2000 17:16:02 -0800
> Hi Andy,
>
> That was a good thought. I have wondered why the tank manufacurers do
> not put a hose barb on both sides of the tank. Then after mounting the
> tank on the bike, you could connect a piece of fuel line between the two
> hose barbs, which would act as an equalizer between the sides of the
> tank, and allow you to use all of the fuel in the tank.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Roger Herrscher
>
Guys,
The Acerbis tank has an outlet, with petcock, on both sides of the
tank.
Wayne
***********************************************
Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club Honda SOHC4 #539
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle
Group)
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Opinion
Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:27:28 -0000
Thanks for the comments on my post yesterday. It's re-assuring to find
someone experiencing even worse brake wear than me, Ludwig!
In answer to another question - I have only removed the air-box snorkel =
so
far. Lack of time has prevented me cutting the box properly, however, I
would like to know if you end up with an annoying intake drone if you =
do
this ? At the moment my DR is very quiet at gentle speeds but has a =
nice
bark when you wind the throttle open. Nice.
The switch on the carb is an interesting one. I haven't touched it yet =
but
sounds like you can just disconnect it. I have noticed a drastic power =
loss
on the odd occasion on the road when I've cracked the throttle open -
hopefully that is what's causing it - I'll try it this weekend !
The Chen Shin tire is about =A330 UK compared to about =A350 for an =
MT21. The
MT21 might last fractionally longer, but not much. And it is definitely =
not
an enduro tire, so it is not to everyone's taste, but will keep going =
in
very deep mud.
I'll dig out the UK Trail-Riding email and send on later....
Steve=20
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:59:37 +0200
Hi guys
Thanks, but i wasn't talking about IMS tank
I made a phonecall to guy who told me(ex-DR rider)
He knows Ims tank, he claimed that G=F6tz tank was bigger,
white and shaped like in the old Paris-Dakar bikes,little bit
like a huge plum (whatever that means)
The problem is, he was looking '97 G=F6tz catalog,
so who knows, are they still selling that tank.
I own also an old Acerbis tank and happy with it,but i'm always
curious about the things, which could be maybe even better for DR.
We will have to wait till Ludwig gets the catalog.
Regards
Mikko Vimpari
'97 350SE
----- Original Message -----
=46rom: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Cc: <dr@lists.xmission.com>; mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.=
net>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:16 AM
Ludwig Geromiller wrote:
>
> Mikko,
>
> i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good t=
his
tank fits or if it is
> stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has onl=
y about
15 Liters.
Mikko and all,
According to the advertisement for the tanks, the IMS is not as large
as the Acerbis. The Acerbis is 4.25 U.S. gallons. I also feel that it=
is
stronger than the IMS, but don't know if that is an issue.
Wayne
--
Wayne Marsul=E1, Escondido, CA
"Casual Collector of Classic Hondas"
"from 50 to 550cc" (about 20)
BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja)
BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank"
Suzuki DR350SE
Honda SOHC4 #539
Yamaha YSR50
Yamaha TW200 (for sale)
Member:
BMW Motorcycle Owners of America
Internet BMW Riders
Airheads Beemer Club #165
Baja Airmarshal (?)
Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club
National Rifle Association
http://www.mikthebik.com/
(San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group)
-
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Trail Riding in the UK
Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:57:22 -0000
Here's a copy of an email I did for another list - it is of course only
based on my own experiences and opinions...(!)
In England and Wales (Scotland has its own situation that I dont know muc=
h
about) there is a network of legal rights of way as follows:
Footpaths - walkers only
Bridleways - Walkers, horses, cyclists (but not a horse and cart!)
RUPPS (Roads Used as Public Paths) - usually all, including vehicles, car=
ts
etc.
Byways - open to all traffic. All RUPPS are currently being reviewed to
re-classify to Bridleways or Byways.
County Roads - these are a little secret to us Trail Riders, they are
basically ancient roads that have not been surfaced with Tarmac. Most loc=
al
authorities allow full vehicular rights on these.
A lot of these routes go back many hundreds of years and so have a clear
history of vehicle usage (horse and cart) that cannot be argued with.
We have an excellent map making company called Ordinance Survey who produ=
ce
maps at 1;50000 or even 1;25000 for every square inch of the UK in 25 mil=
e x
25 mile chunks. All the rights of way are clearly marked up and are
generally very accurate.=20
The organisation I am in, the Trail Riders Fellowship (TRF) act very clos=
ely
and pro-actively with the local authorities to maintain all our rights of
way and fight back very firmly at any proposals to close tracks, or green
lanes as they are known. We also have representatives who will take thing=
s
right up to Government level, if required. The TRF will also offer legal
support to any member being prosecuted by a land owner for trespassing,
especially if using a legal right of way anyway! The current UK membershi=
p
is a couple of thousand, split into about 40 local groups.=20
Each local group has regular social events and official runs where someon=
e
volunteers to lead and navigate. These usually last most of the day (on a
Sunday) but can be a lot of fun as long as there are no major breakdowns.=
If
the group is large (up to 12) it can be slow going though. I usually go o=
ut
on my own because no-one else can get up early enough! (I like to spend
lunchtime onwards with my family.)
And there is a nice little website - http://www.trf.org.uk/ with some pi=
cs.
The website has some suggested rules which look a bit serious- in reality=
we
ride fast and hard, but with respect for the countryside and other users.
There is a tremendous variety of terrain to ride on. Where I live I can g=
o
north/ north west for some rolling green hills and wooded areas, mainly c=
lay
and flint. To the West I have the open Salisbury Plain, nothing too steep=
,
but very scenic and lots of Army activity to avoid! To the East there is =
the
South Downs, a long ridge with some nice steep climbs off it, mainly chal=
k
which is VERY slippery when wet. Nice views down to the coast and Isle of
Wight. To the north east the ground is sandy which results in different
vegetation, but, being Britain still ends up muddy in winter. There is al=
so
a few rocky tracks to practice Trials skills including the famous Alton
stream - a two mile long ride along a sunken rock stream. Very wet and
challenging ! Also another nationally famous hill - Butser Hill. This is
chalk, VERY steep climb about 5 foot wide between two fences. Totally
impossible in winter, very difficult in summer. Most riders wont even
attempt it. Going down is very scary but has to be done - but only on a
little two-stroke in the middle of a heat wave! Oh, and to the south is t=
he
coast, BUT a trip on the ferry gives a day's ride round the Isle of Wight.
Pretty hilly too.
Its very unusual to go out and come home with a clean bike, even in summe=
r.
Which is a real pain. Wheel bearings brakes and chains suffer greatly. A
typical ride for me would involve a road trip of 10-40 mins to my startin=
g
point. Depending on the area you could have a couple of hours completely =
off
road or go on all day with a mixture of road and track. I usually average
80-140 miles in a four or five hour session, with a few stops. Its diffic=
ult
to say how much road/track there is on average, perhaps 1/3 road, 2/3 tra=
ck
on a typical ride. Many tracks are used by farm vehicles or 4x4s so ruts =
are
common. Some have been designated motorcycle only (to reduce erosion) whi=
ch
is great! Twisty single track through woods is my favorite. Most rides wi=
ll
incorporate deep muddy ruts and puddles, leafy woods, open grassy tracks,
fast smooth gravel, a bit of rocky stuff, a bit of sand, plenty of ups an=
d
downs, with a few challenging climbs. And if I take the trailer to Wales
there are some decent mountains to play around on. Mean loose rock climbs=
,
bogs, sheep, rain etc.=20
The DR350 is probably the most common bike. The two stroke Honda CRM250 i=
s
popular but not by anyone following it. The Yamaha TT250, XT225 Serrow,
Honda XLR250 are the favorites for the mature/lady/shorter rider. The Yam=
s
and Hondas are only available as grey imports from Japan, normally
secondhand and always at over inflated prices. Its amazing that the offic=
ial
dealers dont catch on - a lot of people buying the small fourstrokes simp=
ly
want a cheap, sturdy trail bike for commuting on, so the market is
definitely there. A few trail riders use the enduro XR250/400 (which are
available new), but most want turn signals and electric start. I dont kno=
w
of anyone in my group with a 600+.=20
A new DR350 electric start is about =A33500, a few hundred less for the e=
nduro
model. Imported secondhand XLR/TTR 250's can cost as much as =A32500 for =
a
FIVE year old model. Hence I bought a new KMX125 for =A32000. The newish =
trail
Husky 610 is probably one of the few big trail bikes that would be useabl=
e
in winter (my father has one). But at =A35000 for Italian build quality, =
not
for me. The British company CCM do a very tasty 600 electric start with s=
ome
serious componentry around an air cooled Rotax engine. Very nice, but aga=
in
=A35000 for non-Jap quality. Other than that we have XT600, KLR650, Honda
NX650, and apart from the DR, nothing smaller officially imported, apart
from 125's.
Any questions ?? !
Steve=20
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Tires
Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:13:53 -0000
I should clarify and correct my spelling - I use the Cheng Shin C858 on the
rear.
Don't use the front of this model off-road - it will be useless ! And don't
use anything like these tires if you like a motorcross style tread.
Have you seen this web-site ? - lots of pictures and info.
http://www.accwhse.com/
Steve
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Care package DR650
Date: 25 Feb 2000 07:00:17 -0700
I just received a gorgeous "care" package from Tim Bernard www.happy-trail.com . A
set of regular racks (for when I want to use my Ortlieb Dry Bags), a set of the
generation II Northwest racks (for cooler and GIVI luggage), my powdercoated
Top-of-the-Line Rack (used with Ortlieb dry duffel) pre-fitted to the freshly
powdercoated rear luggage rack, highway pegs, GIVI adapter pre-fitted for the luggage
rack, K & N filter, Somsenite Cooler Kits,
Mike Walburn at DualStar sent my a light guard and two KLR windshields (they're on
sale) so that I can try them on the stock DR fairing.
I'm still waiting on my forks and shock from Precision Concepts.
I'm going to be heading to the shop just as soon as this issue of Dual Sport News is
"put to bed".
Kurt Simpson
Editor
Dual Sport News
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds
Date: 25 Feb 2000 08:39:43 -0600
I am going to attempt to install Acerbis handgaurds this weekend.
Reading though the directions it mentions a 14mm or 18mm diameter for
the handlebars, are the stock bars 14 or 18mm?
Thanks
Bryan
'99 DR350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jmloco@aol.com
Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds
Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:48:06 EST
Bryan,
I don't know which size the stock bars are but on my 93 DRS the stock bars
were filled so that I had to get new bars in order to put the handguards on.
I don't know if that is the case with the newer bars. I believe that the box
came with hardware to fit either size bar and I used what fit with the new
bars.
John
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds
Date: 25 Feb 2000 10:13:04 -0600
Neither, the bars are 7/8". They are probably talking about the inside
diameter. The handguards come with 2 sets of inserts to fit in the end
of the bars. If you are using regular steel bars (thinner wall), then
you will use the bigger inserts (probably 18mm), if you have aluminium
bars, the wall is much thicker, you will use the smaller inserts (the
14mm). Hope this helps.
JB
'98 DR650SE (with Acerbis handguards)
>>> Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com> 02/25/00 08:39AM >>>
I am going to attempt to install Acerbis handgaurds this weekend.
Reading though the directions it mentions a 14mm or 18mm diameter for
the handlebars, are the stock bars 14 or 18mm?
Thanks
Bryan
'99 DR350
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wesley Woolfall" <wesleyjohn@totalise.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) I'm back + beeter braking + TRF
Date: 25 Feb 2000 15:24:13 -0000
Hi, I'm back after getting the bike back + the engineers report I bent the
frame back myself, and put it back on the road. :) (very).
Now i'm just waiting for the cheque from the insurance company.
+ is any one after better braking, a company called 'Talon Engineering' dose
a Super Moto size front disc 320mm dia. ú130.00 each plus vat
Super Moto caliper 4 piston (including bracket) ú150.00 plus vat
It is steep but I bet it is worth it.
DO U think joining the TRF is worth it?, I do very little off-road riding,
as I havn't found any where good yet + I am running AVON Gripsters a good on
road tyre (nee down stuff). coments.
Wez
DR350SP 96
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jonathan Moon <jlmoon@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) Thanks for the used price help...
Date: 25 Feb 2000 08:13:21 -0800 (PST)
First of all, thank you all who helped me with the
used price guide for the DR350S.
Turns out it's a 91 model, tach doesn't work, right
rear turn signal is hanging by its wires (and doesn't
work), muffler (stock) has a fair amount of rust, and
when I opened the gas tank there was a little rust on
one side of the neck of the tank. The guy does have
all the records of maintenance on the bike, even
though he's the third owner. He SAID he paid 2200 for
it like last year some time. He wants 1900. I told
him I'd think about what I could offer him. He
doesn't seem over anxious to sell, and if the bike is
gonna take a lot of work to fix, I'm not that anxious
to buy (certainly not at that price!) I figured on
offering about 1300 at the most (depending on what you
guys and my uncle (more experience than I by far)
say).
Thanks for all your help,
Jon
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "David Blacklock" <jeepr2@earthlink.net>
Subject: (dr) hand guards
Date: 25 Feb 2000 10:01:28 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You don't need to buy new bars to put the guards on... just cut about =
1/4" (just past the welds that are inside the ends of the bars) off the =
bars with your saws all or hack saw but that will take awhile because =
you are cutting through 3/4" steel bar.
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>You don't need to buy new bars to put =
the guards=20
on... just cut about 1/4" (just past the welds that are inside the ends =
of the=20
bars) off the bars with your saws all or hack saw but that will take =
awhile=20
because you are cutting through 3/4" steel =
bar.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Minh Lang <minhlang@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) hand guards
Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:34:52 -0800 (PST)
NO need to cut if you don't want to. I drilled a hole in the
bar weight that was welded inside the handle bar then used
a self tapping bolt to install the Acerbis end.
= Minh =
--- David Blacklock <jeepr2@earthlink.net> wrote:
> You don't need to buy new bars to put the guards on... just cut about 1/4" (just
> past the welds that are inside the ends of the bars) off the bars with your saws
> all or hack saw but that will take awhile because you are cutting through 3/4"
> steel bar.
>
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Greg Lara" <gregl@aptix.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds
Date: 25 Feb 2000 12:03:10 -0800
The bar ends on my '95 DR350SE were also filled. Rather than replacing the
bars, I had a machine shop drill and tap holes in the ends of bars to
receive the mounting screws. It turned out great.
By the way, do you have the original style handguards or the new ones with
the aluminum bars mounted inside. The original style ones were a bear to
install. The new style bars have different mounting hardware. I was able to
install them quickly on my '91 CR250.
--Greg
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Jmloco@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:48 AM
Bryan,
I don't know which size the stock bars are but on my 93 DRS the stock bars
were filled so that I had to get new bars in order to put the handguards on.
I don't know if that is the case with the newer bars. I believe that the
box
came with hardware to fit either size bar and I used what fit with the new
bars.
John
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Bryan Ply <Bryan.Ply@gte.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds
Date: 25 Feb 2000 14:16:47 -0600
Greg,
I have the ones with the alum. inside them, I figured that it offered
more protection, I guess that I'll need a little more than 10 min to
complete the project. lol
Bryan
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Colin Parkes" <colinp@rkes.totalserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: (dr) I'm back + beeter braking + TRF
Date: 26 Feb 2000 09:49:19 +0300
Hi Wez,
where are you mate ???
I have ridden off road in the Lakes, you can ride all day and hardly ever
hit a road....
Up rivers, through muddy swamp, it's a laugh....
But you need enduro/mx tyres or forget about it....
later
Col.
Liverpool
'92 DR350S
-----Original Message-----
>Hi, I'm back after getting the bike back + the engineers report I bent the
>frame back myself, and put it back on the road. :) (very).
>Now i'm just waiting for the cheque from the insurance company.
>+ is any one after better braking, a company called 'Talon Engineering'
dose
>a Super Moto size front disc 320mm dia. ú130.00 each plus vat
>Super Moto caliper 4 piston (including bracket) ú150.00 plus vat
>It is steep but I bet it is worth it.
>DO U think joining the TRF is worth it?, I do very little off-road riding,
>as I havn't found any where good yet + I am running AVON Gripsters a good
on
>road tyre (nee down stuff). coments.
>
>Wez
>DR350SP 96
>
>
>
>-
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger <js@ix.heise.de>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100
I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with big
dirty-yellow
places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel?
JS
Ludwig Geromiller schrieb:
> My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only about 15 Liters.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "jnugent" <2jnugent@prodigy.net>
Subject: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb
Date: 27 Feb 2000 02:22:29 -0500
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I guess I should start by saying my bike is a 97 350 SE with a Mikuni =
flat slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 with the quite core, I have all 12 =
disks on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the top. I got a carb kit from Thumper =
Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a 135 main jet, they did not =
recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to put the clip in the 3rd grove from =
the top on
the needle.
The questions that I have are, do you need to use the thick white =
plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If not then I have the wrong needle =
because
the new needle is longer than the stock one and will not drop down the =
hole far=20
enough for the clip to bottom out on the slide.
In the instructions I got from Thumper(they are rather vague and say =
nothing about the needle at all) it says " after starting the engine and =
warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front bottom of the carb for best idle" I =
know where
this screw should be but on my carb there is a brass plug with a very =
small hole
were the screw should be.
Next I can not get the screws on the float bowl the break loose, any =
tricks for
this one?
And finally can you improve the flow of the air box by removing the =
screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the Vortex box I just cant afford it =
right now)
I am in the middle of this and would like to get it done before the =
weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get to many weekends in the 50s and =
60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) Thanks in advance for the help.
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I guess I should start by saying my =
bike is a 97=20
350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 =
with the quite=20
core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the =
top. I got a=20
carb kit from Thumper Racing,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>it has the JX needle and spring and a =
135 main jet,=20
they did not recommend a</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>change to the pilot jet. They said to =
put the clip=20
in the 3rd grove from the top on</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the needle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> The questions =
that I have=20
are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>from the old needle on the new one? If =
not then I=20
have the wrong needle because</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the new needle is longer than the stock =
one and=20
will not drop down the hole far </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>enough for the clip to bottom out on =
the=20
slide.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> In the instructions =
I got from=20
Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) =
it says "=20
after starting the engine and warming it up,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>adjust the fuel screw in the front =
bottom of the=20
carb for best idle" I know where</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>this screw should be but on my carb =
there is a=20
brass plug with a very small hole</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>were the screw should be.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Next I can not get =
the screws on=20
the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>this one?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> And finally can you =
improve the=20
flow of the air box by removing the screen from</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the snorkel. ( I know all about the =
Vortex box I=20
just cant afford it right now)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I am in the middle of =
this and=20
would like to get it done before the weather gets</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>cold again, here in Mich. we don't get =
to many=20
weekends in the 50s and 60s</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>in February.( no heat in the garage) =
Thanks in=20
advance for the help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0--
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mitja Jeric" <mitja.jeric@kiss.uni-lj.si>
Subject: Re: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb
Date: 27 Feb 2000 16:26:15 +0100
If you want to get access to the fuel screw just drill it out (Be careful
not to go too deep). Visit my page at www.geocities.com/dr350page - where
you can find some info about the DR350 carburetor that might help you.
Mitja
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Wesley Woolfall" <wesleyjohn@totalise.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) TRF
Date: 27 Feb 2000 16:04:41 -0000
hi I'm in South Yorkshire, Rotherham.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb
Date: 27 Feb 2000 08:19:13 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF80FB.54FA4E20
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Jim, first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below the clip
which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen
your midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good sharp no.1
phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen times
when it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get
inside you change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw
and set it one and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and
adjust from there when the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact
me with any further questions.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of jnugent
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 11:22 PM
I guess I should start by saying my bike is a 97 350 SE with a Mikuni flat
slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 with the quite core, I have all 12 disks
on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the top. I got a carb kit from Thumper
Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a 135 main jet, they did not recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to put the clip in the 3rd grove from the
top on
the needle.
The questions that I have are, do you need to use the thick white
plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If not then I have the wrong needle
because
the new needle is longer than the stock one and will not drop down the hole
far
enough for the clip to bottom out on the slide.
In the instructions I got from Thumper(they are rather vague and say
nothing about the needle at all) it says " after starting the engine and
warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front bottom of the carb for best idle" I know
where
this screw should be but on my carb there is a brass plug with a very small
hole
were the screw should be.
Next I can not get the screws on the float bowl the break loose, any
tricks for
this one?
And finally can you improve the flow of the air box by removing the
screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the Vortex box I just cant afford it right
now)
I am in the middle of this and would like to get it done before the
weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get to many weekends in the 50s and 60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) Thanks in advance for the help.
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D720420116-27022000>Hi=20
Jim, first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below =
the clip=20
which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen =
your midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good =
sharp no.1=20
phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen =
times when=20
it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get =
inside you=20
change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw and set =
it one=20
and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and adjust from =
there when=20
the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact me with any further=20
questions.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial><SPAN=20
class=3D720420116-27022000></SPAN></FONT><FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D720420116-27022000></SPAN>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT size=3D2>-----Original=20
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B> =
jnugent<BR><B>Sent:</B>=20
Saturday, February 26, 2000 11:22 PM<BR><B>To:</B> d =
r<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr)=20
DR350se Help with my carb<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I guess I should start by saying my =
bike is a 97=20
350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 =
with the quite=20
core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the =
top. I got a=20
carb kit from Thumper Racing,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>it has the JX needle and spring and a =
135 main jet,=20
they did not recommend a</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>change to the pilot jet. They said to =
put the clip=20
in the 3rd grove from the top on</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the needle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> The questions =
that I have=20
are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>from the old needle on the new one? If =
not then I=20
have the wrong needle because</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the new needle is longer than the stock =
one and=20
will not drop down the hole far </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>enough for the clip to bottom out on =
the=20
slide.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> In the instructions =
I got from=20
Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) =
it says "=20
after starting the engine and warming it up,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>adjust the fuel screw in the front =
bottom of the=20
carb for best idle" I know where</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>this screw should be but on my carb =
there is a=20
brass plug with a very small hole</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>were the screw should be.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Next I can not get =
the screws on=20
the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>this one?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> And finally can you =
improve the=20
flow of the air box by removing the screen from</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>the snorkel. ( I know all about the =
Vortex box I=20
just cant afford it right now)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> I am in the middle of =
this and=20
would like to get it done before the weather gets</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>cold again, here in Mich. we don't get =
to many=20
weekends in the 50s and 60s</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>in February.( no heat in the garage) =
Thanks in=20
advance for the help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Edward Marlowe" <emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk>
Subject: (dr) Fw: DR 350
Date: 27 Feb 2000 18:59:27 -0000
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----- Original Message -----=20
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM
ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ 400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov 98')
Under manufactures warranty until 11, 2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use only.
CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis rally pro handguards =
and frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with plenty of power.
=A32300 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire
emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk
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<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk" =
title=3Demarlowe@globalnet.co.uk>Edward=20
Marlowe</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:dr@lists.xmission.com"=20
title=3Ddr@lists.xmission.com>dr@lists.xmission.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> DR 350</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D4><U>ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS</U></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ =
400E!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>FOR SALE</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov =
98')</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Under manufactures warranty until 11, =
2000</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use =
only.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis =
rally pro=20
handguards and frame protectors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with =
plenty of=20
power.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>=A32300 o.n.o</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Located West Yorkshire</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk">emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk</A></FO=
NT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" <scopsey@lucent.com>
Subject: (dr) Sunday's Ride
Date: 28 Feb 2000 15:44:49 -0000
Had a great ride on Sunday - the rain held off and the mud had dried
slightly to a nice soft state, with good grip. Well, it WAS good for the
first few hours until I noticed the rear tire was whining more on the tarmac
- puncture time !
The hole was too big for sealant so tipped the bike on its side against a
bank and popped the wheel out. Not fun at all, especially as everything was
covered in mud. Even worse was the fact that my first attempt at removing
the axle I had the bike sprocket side up to get at the nut, and then of
course, you cant push the axle out so I had to turn the bike round again ! I
then had to take the tire COMPLETELY off the rim to get out a large thorn. I
enjoyed that as well - not. The wheel went back in reasonably easily on the
second attempt (the axle spacers always fall out the bearing seals). And
with about 200 pumps from my useless bicycle pump, it was done.
Took about 3/4 hr, but more importantly I have the confidence (but no
desire...) to do it again. I've had to do this once before on my KMX125, but
that bike is so much lighter that I just rode it onto a large fallen tree
and balanced it on the bash plate. The DR is too heavy for me to do that -
it would stay stuck on the log!
You can get a lightweight alu tube that, in conjunction with the sidestand,
makes a kind of centre stand so you can drop the wheels out with the bike
upright - anyone familiar with this device ?
Steve
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Ludwig Geromiller" <lgeromil@gmx.de>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 28 Feb 2000 20:47:50 +0000 (:)
J=FCrgen,
the yellow stuff is not uncommon. You can try to wipe it away with e.g. =
brakecleaner, but
you won't get a bright, newworthy white tank :-)
Ludwig
On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100, J=FCrgen Seeger wrote:
>
>I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with bi=
g
>dirty-yellow
>places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel?
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jan Bradley" <jan.bradley@medtronic.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank
Date: 28 Feb 2000 16:15:39 -0600
A couple of years ago, I bought a NEW Acerbis tank for my DR350. When I
received it, it too had some yellowing. And it was new!
JB
>>> "Ludwig Geromiller" <lgeromil@gmx.de> 02/28/00 02:47PM >>>
Jurgen,
the yellow stuff is not uncommon. You can try to wipe it away with e.g.
brakecleaner, but
you won't get a bright, newworthy white tank :-)
Ludwig
On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100, Jurgen Seeger wrote:
>
>I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with
big
>dirty-yellow
>places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel?
-
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jonathan Moon <jlmoon@yahoo.com>
Subject: (dr) FirstGear Kilimanjaro Jacket
Date: 28 Feb 2000 13:50:52 -0800 (PST)
Greetings again listers.
I have not yet purchased a bike, but am looking around
for jackets (cart before horse, I know). I realize
that this question may be more appropriate to the KLR
list, but does anyone know of a mail order discounter
for the FirstGear Kilimanjaro jackets? I found one
(RidinGear.com) that had em for $295 and was wondering
if they were cheaper anywhere else. Thanks for the
input.
Jon
=====
Jonathan L. Moon
Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology
University of Georgia
Voice (706)-542-1713
Fax (706)-542-3719
email: jlmoon@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) Archives
Date: 28 Feb 2000 17:04:09 -0700
>
> Hi - could someone please help me with retrieving the archives ?
>
> I have got the index but the get command doesn't work as it is not obvious
> which filenames to use.
> Here's the first few lines....
>
> total 8
> drwxrwxr-x 2 domo domo 4096 Feb 22 19:20 archive
>
> ./archive:
> total 3096
> -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 254363 Jan 31 11:56 dr.200001
> -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 465351 Feb 23 08:52 dr.200002
>
> Thanks !
>
here are the serachable archives Steve
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350
Kurt Simpson
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Isaac Vanier" <ffm@pitnet.net>
Subject: (dr) carb mods???
Date: 28 Feb 2000 19:42:49 -0800
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I have a '97 DR350SE
This weekend, I took it out and started learning to pull wheelies for =
the first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much more comfortable =
than I expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a bit green =
about trying it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me, but =
the more the better of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm =
not sure of the altitude around here. Not high of course. I hear that =
the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd like to make some changes =
and give the bike some more guts. What are the various mods I can do to =
the carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run for this area of =
the country? =20
Thanks a ton for your help.
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a '97 DR350SE</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This weekend, I took it out and started learning to =
pull=20
wheelies for the first time. What fun! It's much easier, and =
much=20
more comfortable than I expected. I'm not really a =
"gutsy" guy,=20
so I was a bit green about trying it : ) Anyway, the power on my =
97 seems=20
good to me, but the more the better of course : ) I live in =
Central=20
Wisconsin, but I'm not sure of the altitude around here. Not high =
of=20
course. I hear that the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd =
like to=20
make some changes and give the bike some more guts. What are the =
various=20
mods I can do to the carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run =
for this=20
area of the country? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks a ton for your help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) carb mods???
Date: 28 Feb 2000 17:50:34 -0800
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HI Isaac, First I would say that with a restrictive airbox I would make no
carb adjustments without either modifing the stock airbox, by cutting the
top out like a 3x4 opening or the Vortex airbox then balance the extra air
with richer jetting. The stock airbox mod and jetting will give you a
modest improvement and the Vortex will give you significantly more but also
cost more. If you decide what choice that you wish to do let me know and I
can guide you as to what jetting modifications to use.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Isaac Vanier
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:43 PM
I have a '97 DR350SE
This weekend, I took it out and started learning to pull wheelies for the
first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much more comfortable than I
expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a bit green about trying
it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me, but the more the better
of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm not sure of the altitude
around here. Not high of course. I hear that the DR is pretty lean on the
jetting, so I'd like to make some changes and give the bike some more guts.
What are the various mods I can do to the carb alone, like what main, and
pilot should I run for this area of the country?
Thanks a ton for your help.
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF8214.4FF55C20
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D360594001-29022000>HI=20
Isaac, First I would say that with a restrictive airbox I would =
make no=20
carb adjustments without either modifing the stock airbox, by cutting =
the top=20
out like a 3x4 opening or the Vortex airbox then balance the extra =
air=20
with richer jetting. The stock airbox mod and jetting will give =
you a=20
modest improvement and the Vortex will give you significantly more but =
also cost=20
more. If you decide what choice that you wish to do let me know and I =
can guide=20
you as to what jetting modifications to use.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A =
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Isaac=20
Vanier<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 28, 2000 7:43 PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
dr@lists.xmission.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) carb =
mods???<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a '97 DR350SE</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This weekend, I took it out and started learning to =
pull=20
wheelies for the first time. What fun! It's much easier, and =
much=20
more comfortable than I expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so =
I was a=20
bit green about trying it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems =
good to me,=20
but the more the better of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, =
but I'm=20
not sure of the altitude around here. Not high of course. I =
hear=20
that the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd like to make some =
changes and=20
give the bike some more guts. What are the various mods I can do =
to the=20
carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run for this area of the=20
country? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks a ton for your help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: (dr) carb mods???
Date: 28 Feb 2000 19:00:07 -0800 (PST)
If you can swing the money go for the Vortex
airbox.You will pull wheelies on accident!! John in
NY
>
> I have a '97 DR350SE
>
> This weekend, I took it out and started learning to
> pull wheelies for the
> first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much
> more comfortable than I
> expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a
> bit green about trying
> it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me,
> but the more the better
> of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm
> not sure of the altitude
> around here. Not high of course. I hear that the
> DR is pretty lean on the
> jetting, so I'd like to make some changes and give
> the bike some more guts.
> What are the various mods I can do to the carb
> alone, like what main, and
> pilot should I run for this area of the country?
>
> Thanks a ton for your help.
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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From: "Isaac Vanier" <ffm@pitnet.net>
Subject: (dr) major bogging problem after a long ride
Date: 28 Feb 2000 22:10:52 -0800
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I need comments on the following problem I'm having with my '97 DR350 - =
all stock. 5.5k miles.
First, the problem: I'll be starting out from a stop, or reving the =
engine with the clutch pulled in while coasting, and the engine will bog =
very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once it gets passed this =
spot, it does fine. It happens very sporatically. =20
Now I've experienced this on 2 seperate rides so far. Both where about =
4 hours of riding. One in cold weather, where I can't imagine the =
engine was overheating at all, and the other in moderate temperatures - =
80 degrees. This last time, I spent most of the time riding at about =
40mph average. But it actually happened while playing around a small =
jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes. I'll make a sharp slow =
turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really =
badly over the first bit of RPM. I don't think it's so bad that I could =
get it to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" if =
I crank it, but it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when =
the bike doesn't go anywhere : )
Basically, I sort of tend to think that this is simply happening because =
I'm riding for quite a while without openening the bike up, and blowing =
the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding etc. I can't imagine =
that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is warm for a =
long long time before it has happened. =20
This is really a small problem, but I figured I'd ask, just to make =
sure.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF8238.AD2DC2A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I need comments on the following =
problem I'm=20
having with my '97 DR350 - all stock. 5.5k miles.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>First, the problem: I'll be =
starting out=20
from a stop, or reving the engine with the clutch pulled in while =
coasting, and=20
the engine will bog very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once =
it gets=20
passed this spot, it does fine. It happens very =
sporatically. =20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Now I've experienced this on 2 =
seperate rides so=20
far. Both where about 4 hours of riding. One in cold =
weather, where=20
I can't imagine the engine was overheating at all, and the other in =
moderate=20
temperatures - 80 degrees. This last time, I spent most of the =
time riding=20
at about 40mph average. But it actually happened while playing =
around a=20
small jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes. I'll make a =
sharp slow=20
turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really =
badly=20
over the first bit of RPM. I don't think it's so bad that I could =
get it=20
to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" =
if I=20
crank it, but it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when the =
bike=20
doesn't go anywhere : )</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Basically, I sort of tend to think =
that this is=20
simply happening because I'm riding for quite a while without openening =
the bike=20
up, and blowing the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding =
etc. I=20
can't imagine that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is =
warm=20
for a long long time before it has happened. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is really a small problem, but =
I figured=20
I'd ask, just to make sure.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF8238.AD2DC2A0--
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to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" <jesse@rvi.net>
Subject: RE: (dr) major bogging problem after a long ride
Date: 29 Feb 2000 09:01:37 -0800
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Isaac you might check your vent hoses from the fuel tank that may have
fuel trapped in them impeding the fuel flow out of the fuel tank especially
if it happens after you have ridden a while a quick test would be to run it
until it starts to act up then open the fuel tank cap and see if this
corrects the problem . The vent lines should all hang pretty much straight
down and not have any loops in them that would trap fuel.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Isaac Vanier
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:11 PM
I need comments on the following problem I'm having with my '97 DR350 - all
stock. 5.5k miles.
First, the problem: I'll be starting out from a stop, or reving the engine
with the clutch pulled in while coasting, and the engine will bog very very
badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once it gets passed this spot, it does
fine. It happens very sporatically.
Now I've experienced this on 2 seperate rides so far. Both where about 4
hours of riding. One in cold weather, where I can't imagine the engine was
overheating at all, and the other in moderate temperatures - 80 degrees.
This last time, I spent most of the time riding at about 40mph average. But
it actually happened while playing around a small jump in only 1st gear for
about 40 minutes. I'll make a sharp slow turn, go to give it some gas, or
start from a stop, and it'll bog really badly over the first bit of RPM. I
don't think it's so bad that I could get it to stall even if I tried,
because it makes it over the "hump" if I crank it, but it sounds really bad,
and is very very noticeable when the bike doesn't go anywhere : )
Basically, I sort of tend to think that this is simply happening because I'm
riding for quite a while without openening the bike up, and blowing the
carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding etc. I can't imagine that
it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is warm for a long long
time before it has happened.
This is really a small problem, but I figured I'd ask, just to make sure.
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D320195016-29022000>Hi=20
Isaac you might check your vent hoses from the fuel tank =20
that may have fuel trapped in them impeding =
the=20
fuel flow out of the fuel tank especially if it happens after you have =
ridden a=20
while a quick test would be to run it until it starts to act up then =
open the=20
fuel tank cap and see if this corrects the problem . The vent =
lines should=20
all hang pretty much straight down and not have any loops in them that =
would=20
trap fuel.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Regards,<BR>Jesse Kientz<BR><A =
href=3D"http://www.kientech.com/"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.kientech.com/</A></FONT> </P>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20
[mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Isaac=20
Vanier<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February 28, 2000 10:11 PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
dr@lists.xmission.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> (dr) major bogging problem =
after a long=20
ride<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I need comments on the following =
problem I'm=20
having with my '97 DR350 - all stock. 5.5k miles.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>First, the problem: I'll be =
starting out=20
from a stop, or reving the engine with the clutch pulled in while =
coasting, and=20
the engine will bog very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once =
it gets=20
passed this spot, it does fine. It happens very =
sporatically. =20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Now I've experienced this on 2 =
seperate rides so=20
far. Both where about 4 hours of riding. One in cold =
weather, where=20
I can't imagine the engine was overheating at all, and the other in =
moderate=20
temperatures - 80 degrees. This last time, I spent most of the =
time riding=20
at about 40mph average. But it actually happened while playing =
around a=20
small jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes. I'll make a =
sharp slow=20
turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really =
badly=20
over the first bit of RPM. I don't think it's so bad that I could =
get it=20
to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" if I crank =
it, but=20
it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when the bike doesn't =
go=20
anywhere : )</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Basically, I sort of tend to think =
that this is=20
simply happening because I'm riding for quite a while without openening =
the bike=20
up, and blowing the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding =
etc. I=20
can't imagine that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is =
warm=20
for a long long time before it has happened. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is really a small problem, but =
I figured=20
I'd ask, just to make sure.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0--
-
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.