The Hacker's Encyclopedia 1998/hackers_encyclopedia.iso/etc/security/mastlock.doc

Text File | 2003-06-11 | 8.0 KB | 124 lines

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                _/      \_  ____________________________
               /  __      \/                            \
              |  (__)        Mastering the Masterlock   /
               \_        _/\________    ___  __   __  _/
                 \______/           \  /   \/  \_/  \/
                         Written By: \/   The Gypsy
                         From:         Dead On Arrival


  This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of locks
 that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are generally
 rented to the studets for the school year. It is a combination lock on the fron
t, and each has a different combination that is given to the student with the lo
ck. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This keyhole can be easily ma
stered once you have one. Also on the back of these locks as a number that has b
een imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I have encountere
d and master are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my school area.
  The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The way best to get one
is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and leave. This is
 the best way, because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock unlocked and som
eone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the school is wonderi
ng what is going on, even before you begin the master!
  Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in on
e of the following ways:

1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back i
s. Not in the actual keyhole where the key is inserted, but on the side, between
 the keyhole peice and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the screwdriver
 or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!)

2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the way
 around the lock. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of pliers. No
te: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the grinder on it
, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.

3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!

I used the 2nd method.

   After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If you
 used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small peice
 of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some versions of t
he lock, there may be other peices of metal from the main housing holding on tha
t plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must then only use a s
crewdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use the grinder then this
 is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove. If when you finally get
it open, peices of the lock fly all over, don't worry... Unless you were plannin
g to put the lock back together (yeah, right!) then you do not need the parts to
gether.
   The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver-colored peice that contains t
he brass key-hole section inside. Just get this part... It's all you need. You s
hould also note the version number of the lock which is on the back plate (which
 you've already taken off)... you will need this number so you know what type of
 lock the master key goes to.
   Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is getting
 the little fucking brass peice out of its silver lining. The silver part is har
d to break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be dropped. The br
ass peice contains pins that will fall out very easily. The best way I have foun
d to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or losing the pins
 is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete peice looks something like
 this:
               ___
              / K \     K represents the keyhole
              | K |
              \_K_/
                |  /___ Piece Mentioned
                |  \     Below...

   The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part whic
h should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will melt at a
 temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. Once you have m
elted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the brass peice, let it
 cool. After it has cooled, pick up both peices together (do not remove the bras
s from the silver yet!). Turn both peices over (holding the brass in the silver
still!!). You will then have the brass portion in one hand below the silver port
ion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion, making sure no pi
ns fall out of the brass peice. The silver peice can then be discarded. Place a
peice of clear tape around the brass peice to hold the four pins inside.
   Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and st
eal a couple of key blanks. (Unless, of course, you are a COMPLETELY honest pers
on, just reading this file for entertainment... If you are then you may pay for
the keys if you like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by CURTIS
. You may or may not later need to file a tiny amount off the TOP of that key. A
nyways, it is the best key I have come across that fits. Now use some form of a
file (I suggest using the grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes, m
ilimeters) from the bottom of the key. Now, remove the tape from your brass peic
e (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall out!!). Insert the key into the
brass peice key-hole. Push it in until it sticks out the other end about 0.5mm (
or just... "not very far"). Starting at the far end of the key (the fourth pin)
look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of the brass peice. Remember ap
prox. that distance and remove the key. Take your file and file down on the key
a dip in the place where that pin (4) would line up on the key. Do NOT file down
 too far. Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how far the pin is getting clo
ser to even with the brass peice. When the pin sticks out none and is also NOT i
nside the brass peice at all, then move on to the next pin doing the same thing.
 If you file down too far then the key is worthless and must be re-done. After a
ll four pins have been completed, they should be perfectly even with the brass p
eice when the key is in place. Be sure to re-tape the pins inside the brass peic
e.
   Finally your key is complete, try it out on another lock (with the same versi
on number on the back-plate)... You may need to move the key around a little ins
ide of the key-hole to make it work. If it does work then turn the key back and
forth inside the key-hole about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better
. If it doesn't work then try the key in your brass portion again. If they are i
ncorrect then try again. Don't worry, with a little practice, you'll be able to
file out a key in under 5 minutes!
   Well, that's it! My school also had normal master locks that they used for ot
her things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered. It's done in
 just about the same way, so you can experiment.
   Just a warning... be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys. Also
, be sure not to sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna give t
hem to everybody else. I say this because I was suspended from school for 14 day
s because the kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid. So on
ce people found out he was selling them, others wanted one. He then had to tell
people no (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school would have one!). One of t
hese persons decided to be an asshole and narced on us. That, of course, is what
 got me suspended.
   There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock after taking it of
f and using the master key. This will be explained in the next file. That's it f
or now... Thanx for reading this file intended for ENTERTAINMENT purposes ONLY!
      hehehe...