The Hacker's Encyclopedia 1998

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CRAPS PRIMER BY ALLEN DEROSIE UID# 74521,2714 Your pulse is increasing. Your heart starts pounding until you can hear it in your ears. Are you about to faint? No, you are stepping up to the crap table for the first time and are about to plunk your money down. Craps, Las Vegas style, is one of the fastest moving most exciting games that can be played. Fortunes have been won and lost in just matters of minutes. Small bankrolls have turned into large ones...and large ones have been turned into small ones in the same time. The intention of this primer is to teach you the game basics, terms and what you need to know to at least be an intelligent player of craps. The rest is up to you. The last chapter of this tutorial will include some basic money management play for the beginner (and maybe even the seasoned "pro"). I suggest that you print this file out so that you may refer back easily to areas that might be a little confusing. If you have either a craps game on computer or a picture of a crap table layout, that would greatly assist you along the way. Are we ready to start? The following is an outline of what I hope to cover. Table Layout - What all those funny boxes mean Terminology - Definitions of words and terms used at the crap table. Basic Play - What you do to get started and the object of the game Money Management - How to keep what you win or lose less If you have questions or comments I can generally be reached through the Travel Forum on Compuserve. The title of this article includes my UID#. Hopefully, by the time you read this we will have a Las Vegas forum. Otherwise, I can be reached under "United States" in the Travel forum (GO TRAVSIG). Good luck and enjoy. Do not be afraid, in fact I recommend, that you reread the information. It is going to better prepare you for your adventure. The game should not be as intimidating if you are well informed. TABLE LAYOUT The basic craps table is designed with three sections that are easily distinguished. The left section and the right section are identical. They are merely in two parts to allow players to play at both ends of the table while making their bets. The middle section is where the "proposition" bets are made, which we will explain in detail later. BASIC PLAYING AREA This is where the bulk of the betting is done. The first thing you will need is chips. When you are at the table proper etiquette is that you drop the cash in front of you on the green felt immediately in front of the chip rail, as you say to the dealer, "change only, please." He will not take it directly from your hand as this is against the house's policy. The first area you will see is an area about three inches wide that runs from the top corner of the table completely around the table to the man holding the stick in his hand. He is appropriately called "the stickman". This area will have the words "pass line" printed on the felt. The other two people which pay the bets, take your money and make change are called "dealers". The gentleman or lady sitting down is from the "pit". Often they will be one of the pit crew. Their job is to supervise the play making sure all bets are made and paid correctly as well as generally overseeing the game to be sure the rules are adhered to properly. The PASS LINE is where most of the bets are placed. Unless you wish to play the "don't pass" line, which is the area immediately above the "pass line". If you are betting "with" the shooter than your first bet will be placed on the "pass line". If you are betting "against" the shooter then you will place your bet on the "don't pass" line. Let's talk about the object of the game at this point and go from there. The shooter, the one with the dice, is going to try and make his "point". When you first get to the table you will notice a plastic "puck". This "puck" is white on one side and black on the other. The black side says "off" and the white side says "on". This is to indicate what the shooter's "point" currently is. If the white "on" side is placed on one of the numbered boxes (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10) near the top of the table, then that is the number the shooter must roll to win. To win, the shooter must roll the numbered marked before he rolls a 7. First a shooter must establish what his point is going to be. This is called the "come out" roll. You will here the dealer often saying, "The shooter is coming out." That means he is getting ready to start the next point or find out what is point is going to be. The shooter (or you) places a bet on the pass line (we will assume for all examples right now that you are going to bet with the shooter.) The dice are then rolled towards the other end of the table. You are required to hit the end of the table with the dice. If you repeatedly make a "short roll", which means you did not hit the other end of the table, you will be asked to please hit the other end of the table or they may declare it a "no roll". That means that it will be voided, and you will have to throw the dice again. So let's see what we get on the first roll of the dice. There are eleven possibilities from the number 2 up to the number 12. If you roll a 2, 3, or 12 that is called a craps. If it is the "first" role then you will lose instantly the bet placed on the "pass line". If you roll 7 or 11 on the first roll then you will win instantly an amount equal to the bet you placed on the "pass line". The "odds" are more likely you will roll a 7 more than any other combination of the dice because there are more combinations of 7 then any other number. Let's see what numbers are left, okay? The numbers left are 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, and 10. Remember the boxes at the table we talked about before? One of the dealers at each end of the table will take the "puck" and place it on the number you roll. That will mark and tell you what your "point" is. You must now roll or "repeat" that number in order to win. If you roll the same number again BEFORE you roll a 7, then you win. If you roll a 7 BEFORE you roll your "point" again then you lose your pass line bet. This is an "even money" bet which means you will be paid an amount equal to your "pass line" bet if you win. ODDS There is another bet you will see on the table. This bet appears to be placed behind the "pass line" bet in an area that has no specific markings. This is called "odds". All of the "point" numbers (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10) have a certain probability of being repeated. This is true odds. Once the "point" number has been determined you may make an additional (optional) bet for an amount up to twice your original "pass line" bet. This bet is totally optional. You will be paid the "true odds" on this "backline" bet. So, what are the true odds? For the numbers 4 and 10, the "true odds" are 2 to 1. If you had bet $5 on the "pass line", then a point of 4 or 10 was determined then you could have placed up to another $10 behind your original "pass line" bet. If you lose by rolling a 7, then you lose both bets. If you role the "point" and win, then you will be paid $5 for your "pass line" bet and another $20 (2 to 1 odds) for the $10 you bet as "odds". The total won will be $25. Are you still with me? The other number's "odds" are as follows: 5 or 9 pays 3 to 2 "odds". For every $2 increment you bet as odds behind your "pass line" you will be paid $3. For the numbers 6 and 8 the payoff is 6 to 5. You will be paid $6 for every $5 "odds" bet. Don't be too confused at this point. The dealers will be more than glad to help you place your "odds" bet and inform you of how much you can bet. This is the BEST BET in the casino from one standpoint. The house gets no percentage from this bet and pays you the true odds of the event happening. Of course, it is only a good bet if you win! If your bankroll is not large, then I do not recommend making this bet until you are a little ahead. Or, at least make a smaller "odds" bet, possibly equal to your "pass line" bet rather than the "limit" of two times your "pass line" bet. You can also bet the "don't pass" line. Then you are betting that the shooter will lose. It is quite acceptable and no one is going to hang you for betting "against" the shooter. I might inject at this point that while it is quite appropriate to yell and cheer when betting with the shooter (pass line) and you win, it is not proper etiquette to cheer if you are betting "against" the shooter (don't pass line) and you win. All the above examples of how to win playing the pass line, basically work in REVERSE when playing the "don't pass" line. The only exception is the number 12. If you are betting the "don't pass" line and a 12 is rolled on the first role, the "come out", the you neither win or lose. The pass line loses but you are "barred" from a win. This is the house's way of evening the play for both sides. This is known as "bar 12" which you will see printed on the "don't pass" line" also indicated by a picture of two dice, each with a six on it, totaling 12. When using odds with a "don't pass" line bet you must now "lay the odds". This means you must put down more to win less. Does that sound like a bad bet? It is not. Once a point has been established then the "don't pass" bet is the favorite to win depending on which number is the point. So, you must now "lay" the odds for a number such as the 9. The odds that you will win are 3 to 2 in YOUR favor. So, you must lay $3 for every $2 you wish to win. Dealers will be glad to explain the maximum amount you can bet. I will give you one example for illustration. You bet $10 on the "don't pass" line. The point is established as a 9. For you to win the shooter must roll a 7, called "sevening out". You may now "lay the odds" behind your original don't pass bet. Again, you are allowed to lay an amount that will allow you to win twice the original bet of $10. You may now lay enough to win $20 (2 times your $10 bet). Since the point is 9 and the odds of you winning are 3 to 2, you must lay $30 to win $20. So, your bets would look like this. $10 on the "don't pass" line and a bet placed behind it for $30. If the shooter misses his point (sevens out), you will win $10 for the front bet and $20 for the back bet for a total of $30. There are some slight variations in some cities other than Las Vegas (such as Reno) where they "bar 2" instead of the 12 on the beginning roll when trying to establish the point. It is doubtful you will run into any of these exceptions. It makes no difference to the actual game or odds, so do not be concerned. THE FIELD Above the "pass line" and the "don't pass" line is an area called the "field". It will have many numbers located in it. Generally, they will be 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, and 12. If you place a bet in this it is known as a one-roll bet. That means that the next roll of the dice will determine whether you win or lose any money placed in this area. If any of the numbers shown are rolled next, you win. If any other number is rolled, you lose. If the 2 or 12 is rolled you will note that the table printing say, "double". You will be paid double your bet placed on the "field" if the 2 or 12 is the next number only. On the surface this appears to be a great bet. "Oh, look Harriet, I get ALL those numbers and only one has to come up for me to win!" Do not be deceived. The house has computed this out. The likelihood is in their favor. While this is not a horrid bet, it is not generally recommend by those in the know. BIG 6 AND BIG 8 Unless you like giving your money away DO NOT MAKE THIS BET. Where is it located you say? Very conveniently on both corners of the table. It even says, "Big 6" and "Big 8". It should say "Big Sucker Bet". There is another way of making the same bet which is better and will pay you $7 for every $6 you bet. If you bet the "Big 6/Big8" you only get even money. Why not get paid correctly? I will discuss the alternative in the next section. PLACE BETS Let's go back to the big boxes that were used you mark your "point" with the "puck". You have probably noticed while standing by the craps table, bunches of chips stacked in this area. They even seem to have a pattern to the way they are place. This area is used for two different types of bets. They are "place" bets and "come" bets. We will first discuss "place" bets. You may specifically place a bet (that's why they call it a "place bet') on a number of your choice. You merely tell the dealer that you want a "place bet" on whatever number that is your choosing. Or, you can bet on more than one if you wish. You will be paid "odds" according to the number you choose as see some examples. If you place a bet on numbers 4 or 10 you will be paid at a rate of $9 for every $5 you bet. This bet stays there until you decide to take if off, or until a 7 is rolled and you lose the bet. You can remove the bet, or rather ask the dealer (never reach for chips on the table) to remove the bet whenever you like. Every time the number is rolled you will be paid another $9. If the number 7 is rolled, you lose your bet. For the other numbers, a 5 or 9 with a place bet will pay $7 for every $5 bet on them. A 6 or 8 will return $7 for every $6 bet. All other numbers rolled, other than the one(s) you have "placed" or the number 7, which makes you lose, have no bearing on this bet. This is not quite the true odds but it is not a bad bet as far as you are concerned as a player. As far as the "arrangement" of the chips that I spoke about before, they chips are arranged in a pattern similar to the way the players are standing around table in order that the dealer can keep tract of who belongs to which bets. Next is the other chips that are put into these boxes. LAY BETS (DO SIDE) Another form of the place bet is called the "lay" bet. Instead of placing the odds mentioned above, you may "lay" the true odds and pay the house 5% for that privilege. Since the house's percentage is less than 5% on all numbers other than 4 and 10, you should only "lay" the 4 and 10. You would "lay" $10 for every $20 you wish to win (2 to 1 odds). LAY BETS (DON'T SIDE) You can also bet that the shooter will NOT roll a certain number before they roll a 7. This is the reverse of the place bet. You are a favorite that this will happen, at least mathematically. So, you must "lay" the proper odds. We discussed earlier the true odds of a number being rolled. A 4 or 10 is 2 to 1 odds. A 5 or 9 is 3 to 2 odds. A 6 or 8 is 6 to 5 odds. You must bet accordingly to the number you wish. For example, if you thought the shooter would throw a 7 before they will throw a 9, you would tell the dealer, "No 9" and give him $3 for every $2 you wish to win. Since these are the true odds the house has to have some profit in it for them, right? They "charge" you 5% for making that bet. The 5% is based on how much you can win, not how much you have to bet. The minimum charge is usually $1. Example. I give the dealer $15 and say, "no 9". I am trying to win $10 (3 to 2 odds, remember). Since 5% of $10 is only $ .50, I have to give him the minimum $1 which he will not actually put on the bet itself. That is merely the houses percentage, known as "the vig", which stands for vigorish. These bets are also placed in the big boxes near the top of the table, usually in the uppermost area where there is a smaller blank box primarily used for the don't bets. COME BETS Finally, there is a large area in the middle of the left or right third we have been talking about. It will have the word "come" in big bright red letters printed on it. This can, but should not, be a confusing bet to describe. It is handled and represents exactly the same kind of bet as the pass line bet. If you come to a table in the middle of someone shooting, there has to be a way for you to join the action immediately if you wish to do so. Since the shooter could (in theory) roll the dice forever and never 7 out or make his point. This is what the "come" bet was designed for. When you put a bet in the "come" area then your are "pretending" that you are beginning from this point to establish a new point. It is sort of a game within the regular game. All "pass line" rules now apply to the "come" bet you have just made. If the shooter rolls a 7 or 11 the next roll, you win. If he throws a 2, 3 or 12 the next roll you lose. Any other number rolled (4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10) will become YOUR point for that bet only! You can keep making come bets after each roll. This will have the effect of having several games going on within the roll of a shooter. If any of the "other" numbers or points are rolled, your "come" bet will be put in the appropriate box for that number. This is the same box that hold the place bets and that holds the "puck" or marker. Yes, that box can get pretty crowded with chips as you might have seen before. Anyway, because the "come" bet is similar to the "pass line" bet you may now include an odds bet once the number or "point" has been established for your come bet. Instead of putting your odds bet behind your come bet, you will notice the dealer "stacks" your odds bet on top of your come bet, slightly offsetting them so that both you and he can tell the difference between your regular come bet and the odds you have put with it. This way he will be able to pay you the correct amount. DON'T COME BETS There is also a smaller box marked "don't come bar 12" in the upper corner of the table on each end. On the right end of the table, it will be right next to the box with a 10 in it. On the left end of the table, it will be right next to the box with a 4 in it. This is the same as making a "don't pass" bet, but you now have an option similar to what was described above for the "come" bet. This is also a way to "join the game" in progress from the don't side. This more or less concludes the first part of the primer on craps as far as the basics of the game and the layout on the right and left thirds of the table. It does not include every possible bet or combination, but does include 99 and 44/100% of them. Are you ready to move on to the "proposition" bets that is the big area in the middle of the table in front of the stickman? Ready or not, here we go. PROPOSITION BETS First, I will offer an opinion of proposition bets. The house takes a much bigger "cut", meaning they pay less than the true odds, on these bets. They are not bad bets, just less profitable. They are often used as "hunch" bets or when you are running hot and like to push things a little. Enough said. Let describe them in detail. Hardways: Hard ways are any combination of the dice which are pairs. That is where both dice are the same number. A "hard" 8 is two 4's. A "hard" 6 is two 3's. A "hard" 10 is two 5's. A "hard" 4 is two 2's. These are indicated by white dice that simulate the numbers. The odds that the will pay for this bet are located below the individual dice. For the hard 6 and hard 8 it will say "10 for 1". This mean that they will pay you $10 for every $1 that you bet. That INCLUDES your $1. So you actually receive $9 profit. For the hard 4 and 10 it is "8 for 1". This bet stays until the hardway is rolled, you win; or another "soft" way is rolled. A "soft" way would be any combination that adds up to the number you have bet but is NOT a pair. A "soft" 8 would be 6 and 2, 5 and 3. You lose your bet if a soft way comes before your "hard" way. This bet also loses if the shooter rolls a 7 before a "hard" way is rolled. This is also called a "working" bet. "Working" means that if no decision has been reached on this bet and the shooter makes his point, it will play on the next "come out" roll that the shooter makes. You will USUALLY be asked by the stickman "Hardways 'work' unless called off, okay?" If you think the shooter is going to start with a 7, you may "declare the bet off". You will see him put a marker that says "off" on your bets until a point has been established. Your bet will then be automatically back "on". 7 or "big red": This is a "one roll" bet. It means that if, on the next roll only, the shooter rolls a 7, you win. Any other number, you lose. This bet pays 5 for 1. Again, this means $5 for every $1 you bet. A profit of $4. 11: This is a "one roll" bet. If the next number rolled is an 11, you win. Any other number, you lose. It pays 15 for 1, or $14 profit. 2: This is a "one roll" bet. It pays 30 for 1 or $29 profit. 12: This is a "one roll" bet. It pays 30 for 1 or $29 profit. 3: This is a "one roll" bet. It pays 15 for 1 or a $14 profit. OTHER PROPOSITION BETS There are several other bets that you will either see marked in the center, or that you may hear players yell out to the stickman. The most commonly used bet you will hear players yell is "C & E a dollar each". You will notice a series of circles about 2 inches in diameter on both sides of the center proposition area. One circle will have "C" and the other will have an "E". The "C" stands for craps. The "E" stands for eleven. So, the above bet means they want $1 on the craps and $1 on the eleven. The circles are merely for the convenience of the stickman because the bet is so popular. I will include a few others below for your information. Any craps: This is a "one roll" bet. You are betting that the next number rolled will be a 2, 3, or 12. Any other number and you lose. It pays 8 for 1 or $7 profit. You will often see pass line betters make this bet as the shooter is about to roll the dice for the first time. It is "sort" of insurance against losing their pass line bet since the "craps" numbers would be a loss for the pass line. Horn bet: You are betting that the next number is 2, 3, 11, or 12. The term horn was merely coined because it is the "outside" numbers. It is usually bet in increments of $4 so that the resulting payoff will be according to the number rolled and it's odds. See above for the specific payoffs for each number indicated. 3-way crap: Instead of betting "any craps" which pays 8 for 1 if 2, 3 or 12 are rolled next, you can bet in increments of $3 ($1 for each of the numbers) and will be paid the correct odds for the actual number (2, 3, 12) that comes up. If you are betting more than $3 on the "any craps" bet, you should switch to this bet for a better pay off. Hi/Low: This is also a "one roll" bet. You are betting that the next number will be a 2 or 12. It pays 30 for 1(Remember though, if you only bet $1 on this bet you are actually betting $0.50 on each number) so it is best to bet in increments of $2. CRAPS TERMINOLOGY There are many other "phrases" that you will hear around the crap tables. (some of them cannot even be repeated around children). I will try and list some of them here so you will feel more "in the know" when you are playing at the table. This is not a complete list. It is just some of the more colorful and popular ones that are used in the heat of "battle" while at the table. Feel free, as some do, to make up your own as you learn the game and progress along. After this section will be a small discussion of money management. PHRASE DEFINITION Box cars Two 6's Little joe Two 2's Square pair Two 4's Snake eyes Two 1's Nina The number 9 Yo Eleven (or someone has just stepped on your toes) Fever The number 5 For the boys When you make a bet or "tip" for the dealers you announce it as such. Change only When throwing cash on the table this indicates that it is NOT a bet. If you don't this, it could be considered a bet. Dealers will usually say this to clarify if they are not accepting it as a bet. Money plays If you put cash down and it all plays for a certain bet that you have declared or is obvious by where you placed it. Color change Exchanging your chips for smaller or larger denominations. Usually only done when you are leaving the table. You set your winnings (hopefully) down on the table in front of you and announce "color change only" Marker Credit extended by the casino to a player. Pass the dice This means a player does not wish to shoot the dice. Pass them to the next one. No roll Indicates that the roll is void and does not count for any bets. Same dice If one of the dice goes off the table the stick man will usually not return the one(s) that went off the table. They must first be examined by the pit to be sure no one has "done" anything like switch dice. If you make this request you will be given back the same dice after examination. All bets off This means you want all your bets "off" or removed. This only applies to bets that are "allowed" to be removed. Place bets, hardways, odds, proposition bets field bets and "don't" bets. You cannot remove pass line or come bets since the house is the favorite to win once they are established. Odds off This means you want all your odds bets off. You may indicate "one roll only". ETIQUETTE Even at a craps table there are certain rules of etiquette hat are usually observed. If violated you are not arrested or thrown out of the casino, but you may find that you have irritated other players at the table. These are not "hard and fast" rules, they are just guidelines that I recommend. Don't side players do not cheer or root out loud when the shooter loses and the don't side wins. A simple "Yes!" quietly murmured under you breath is acceptable. Never, that is to say NEVER use the word "seven" when the shooter is trying to make a point. It is considered very superstitious. If you say it and the shooter misses, all eyes will be on you! Feeling that you have "brought" about the rolling of a 7 by saying the word. It ain't so, but why anger people, right? Make your bets early. Dealers and players hate it when people are constantly making last minute bets and throwing chips across the table. Everyone make a late bet occasionally. Just don't make it a habit. When in doubt ask a dealer, not another player, about the correct way to make a bet. They will always be honest with you and give you the CORRECT answer. Even I make mistakes. If you are not sure about the correct odds that will give you the best return, just ask the dealers. When it is your turn to throw the dice, always be sure you hit the other end of the table. Always pay more attention so that you are not busy talking with friends while the rest of the table is waiting for you to pick up the dice. Only use ONE hand to touch the dice. Don't put them in both hands and rub them together. Blowing on the dice for "luck" is frowned upon by the casino. Always keep the dice in plain view of the dealers. If you take them below the table or out of sight, they become very suspicious. If you are a smoker (like me) be very courteous to other players as it can get very crowded at the craps tables and it is a small thing to be courteous. Do not let your hands hang over the edge of the table and do not reach down to move chips or make bets once the dice are rolling. Players are very superstitious about dice "hitting" another players hands. They feel that it is bad luck. Therse are only guidelines to make your play more fun and not aggravate other players unknowingly. MONEY MANAGEMENT This is an area into which I step very cautiously since it is my opinion. Although, most of what I am about to say is accepted by most gamblers having any knowledge of craps. You will hear of many "systems" that people use and claim to always win. First, there is NO system that can turn negative percentages into positive ones. You can, of course, stay ahead of the casinos for many trips, possibly even many years if you have a money management plan. How you bet is your decision. Whether or not you choose to bet with or against the shooter, pass or don't pass, is your personal decision. I merely offer a few hints to get the most of what you win or lose the least when things are not going to well. It has been an accepted rule that your bankroll should be equal to 20 times your bet. Or, in reverse, you should not bet more than 1/20 of your total money that is brought to the table. If you have $100 to play with, your bets should be around $5. For a $500 bankroll, your bets should be around $25. You will be the best judge of what is comfortable for you. All money management "systems" end up the same in the long run. You can progress when you are winning or progress your bets when you are losing. I generally speaking, advise you to increase your bets when you are winning. That way, you are using the "houses" money to take a chance. If you are losing, lower your bets until things start improving. It is not bad to have a predetermined goal of what you would like to win. When you reach it, walk away. The dice DO NOT HAVE A MEMORY. So, just because they have been hot for an hours does not mean they cannot turn to ice with the next throw of the dice. Remember, a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush when it comes to gambling. A good method I use for "knowing" when to leave a winning streak is also known in the investment community as a "stop loss". You may have heard this phrase from the stock market. Here is how it works. You make an arbitrary amount of what you are willing to "lose back" once you get ahead. And, you must stick to it religiously. Let's say for example you have been playing craps for 30 minutes and are $100 ahead. You started with $200 and now have $300. You say to yourself, "Self! I will not lose back more than $40 of this profit before quitting." If you lose $40 back, then quit and save your $60 profit for the next session. If you keep winning then you keep only $40 in front of you in the rack. Put your winnings in the back section of the rack and only play with the $40. The first time you lose the $40 "front money", then quit. This will allow you to take full advantage of any "hot" streak that you are on, but will preserve some of your profits. Money moves fast in the game of craps. You can get caught up in the action. When you have a lot of chips in front of you it is too easy to just keep putting them out. Pretty soon you have gone through all your profit and are now back into your own money. One final note. Getting even. I almost hate that phrase. It has been the ruination of many a gambler who would otherwise be successful. Getting even once you are behind is not a matter of exact dollars. If you are losing $100 at some point and then you win back $90, don't be afraid to take a $10 loss and come back later if you want to play more. I have seen players trying to "get even exactly" and it cost them all the rest of their money trying to win that last $10. You are NOT almost even when you have just won $90! You actually lost $100 first. Now, you have just won $90. You will feel better if you look at it this way. You are just about ready for the real thing. Reread any parts you are not sure that you fully understand. Have a diagram in front of you when reading this primer. In closing, if you have any questions feel free to contact me through email or posting on the Travel forum (GO TRAVSIG). I will be glad to answer the same questions 10 times if you are unsure. I want to see all of you understand how to play the game of craps before you risk actual money. Good luck and good gambling. Allen De Rosie IMPORTANT INFORMATION This is to protect me from angry wives/husbands, the FBI, CIS, the Sysops, local state authorities and anyone else that might be inclined to take offense. This information is provided purely for educational purposes. It is not meant to be an incentive to gambler. It is not to be used in any city, state or territory where gambling is illegal. It is not under any approval, implied or otherwise of Compuserve or any of its employees. Any one using the above information is responsible for their own results. There is no guarantee as to the accuracy of any subjects discussed, although precautions have been taken to insure the material is as accurate as can be. Gambling entails certain risks and should not be done with funds or moneys other than what would be considered expendable without damaging your personal financial well being.