In article <1992Nov5.145736.1288@tellab5.tellabs.com>, henryng@tellabs.com
(Henry Ng) wrote:
>
> In article <1992Nov3.232626.9978@pbhya.PacBell.COM> drhall1@pbhya.PacBell.COM (Doug R. Hall) writes:
> >I am lookiing at buying a Porsche '78-79 911. I was wondering if anyone
> >could tell me if they had anything that should be checked. I was told by one
> >owner that there was an upgrade to some part of the engine that if it wasn't
> >fixed it would ruin the rest of the engine. I have also heard about clutch
> >upgrades. Any info about any possible problems would be appreicated.
> >
>
> You picked the right year because from 1978 and up, Porsche started using galvanizing steel therefore rust is to the minimum degree. I think he's talking about chain tensoner which most older 911 owners like to upgrade. I would look at the front suspension pan, make sure it is not rusted. If the car is maintained properly, I will not mind high mileage car, provided that all receipts are justified. 911 is very expensive to maintain and they're very tempremental (sp?). However, they're a blast to drive
>
>
> r is very torquey.
> They usually blow a puff of blow smoke upon startup- that's normal. They also leak drops of oil from the strainer- that's normal. There is a place in Indiana called PB Tweeks which sells lots of Porsche parts, prices are reasonable.
> Good Luck.
I've had a '78 911 Targa for about quite a while now and its been
in my immediate family since new (15 years).
The upgrade for the engine is almost certainly changing the cam chain
tensioners to the pressure-fed (hydraulic) style adopted in 1984
with the Carrera 3.2 liter engine. These tensioners fixed a relatively
uncommon but very expensive problem with the chains slipping and
causing pistons and valves to destroy each other and the cylinder. If
the car you are looking at does not have the pressure-fed tensioners,
don't worry about it. You can them added for around $500 after you get
the car.
The clutch upgrade is even less of a big deal. The '78 and '79 (and
maybe later) 911s had a rubber centered clutch mechanism. The idea
behind this was to reduce vibrations. The problem was the rubber center
would start to break apart and cause the clutch to stop working. The
upgrade is to change a later model spring centered clutch. Again, if the
car you are looking at has a rubber centered clutch, you can change it
when you get the car or when it fails.
Just make sure you are not paying as much for a 911 that has the original
style tensioners and/or clutch.
The 3.0 liter engine is very durable and should go close to 250,000 miles
before it needs to be rebuilt. This is a lot better than the 2.7 liter
engines used from '74 to '77 that need to be rebuilt by 100,000 miles
and sometimes even sooner. The 3.0 liter is basically a Turbo engine
without the pressures the Turbo provides.
3.0 liter 911s are not that expensive to maintain if you find good
non-dealer shop. They hold a tune as well as any American I have ever
owned (many) and are not at all temperamental.
You should be able to find a '78 or '79 911 for somewhere around $14,000.
Note: Porsche started using full galvanized steel in '76.
