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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!boulder!ucsu!colfelt
- From: colfelt@ucsu.Colorado.EDU (Andrew BW Colfelt)
- Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
- Message-ID: <1992Oct15.054426.5896@ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
- Organization: University of Colorado, Boulder
- References: <BvvHJJ.9qK@ssesco.com> <1992Oct11.203434.27766@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> <Bw0IKw.Jw@ssesco.com> <1992Oct13.000411.18272@cabot.balltown.cma.COM>
- Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 05:44:26 GMT
- Lines: 41
-
- welty@cabot.balltown.cma.COM (richard welty) writes:
-
- >O2 sensors need to warm up before they take effect. single wire
- >sensors take a couple of minutes; three wire sensors take effect
- >in about 30 seconds. most well designed fool injection systems
- >will run in their open loop mode for a brief period of time while
- >warming up before they start to make use of the sensor data.
-
- Hmmm. Perhaps the above explains a problem I've
- had off-and-on for years:
-
- '83 SAAB 900 turbo:
- This car has a single conductor O2 sensor that has not
- been replaced in the last 75,000 miles, to my knowledge,
- and may not have been replaced during the previous 50,000
- miles before I owned it, i.e. maybe the orig. equip.
-
- Cold start after warm-up:cool-down cycle. Engine runs
- real rough (like 3/4 cyls.) and will idle at ~3 rpm unless
- light pedal pressure is given.
-
- After 5-15 seconds everything smooths out, and the
- rough to smooth transition is very noticeable.
-
- Problem will not return unless warm-up:cool down
- cycle is repeated.
-
- This problem occurs with the highest frequency when the
- cool-down period is relatively short, though long enough
- to fully cool the system. If the cool-down period is
- very long (over night) then the problem is less likely.
- Cool-down from stinking hot further increases probability.
-
- Are we talking o2 sensor here, or injectors, or what?
-
-
-
- --
- Andrew
- Colfelt@ucsu.Colorado.EDU
- --
-