home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!caen!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!chohan
- From: chohan@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Harpal Chohan)
- Subject: Re: oxygen sensor
- Message-ID: <1992Oct11.203434.27766@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>
- Sender: news@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
- Nntp-Posting-Host: photon.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu
- Organization: The Ohio State University
- References: <26055@oasys.dt.navy.mil> <1992Oct7.210906.18481@cabot.balltown.cma.COM> <BvvHJJ.9qK@ssesco.com>
- Date: Sun, 11 Oct 1992 20:34:34 GMT
- Lines: 21
-
- In article <BvvHJJ.9qK@ssesco.com> elmquist@pez.ssesco.com (Chris Elmquist) writes:
- >
- >I'm wondering if I can disconnect the sensor and fake a nominal Vout
- >using a battery and a couple resistors (or a pot)... If they have a 0v
- >to 1v range, can I feed .5v say, into the computer in place of the O2 sensor
- >and see if the idle behaves differently (better maybe) ? Or is the output
-
- Wouldn't feeding the ECU 0.5V fool it into believing the mixture is
- optimum already, which might not be the case? I believe Richard's
- suggestion of grounding the wire is probably a more stable test.
-
- >It would be nice to diagnosis the O2 sensor as bad before trying to pull
- >it out...
-
- You can hook a voltmeter to its output and observe how fast it reacts
- when hot. Should fluctuate between 0.4 to 0.7 V at a fairly brisk
- rate. Introduce unmeasured air into the system by pulling the dipstick
- or the oil filler cap, and see if the voltage drops immediately. Sluggish,
- or no response, should be fairly indicative of a non-functioning sensor.
-
- -h
-