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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!stanford.edu!kronos.arc.nasa.gov!chucko
- From: chucko@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Chuck Fry)
- Subject: Motor oil is motor oil... or is it?
- Message-ID: <1992Sep9.234902.6535@kronos.arc.nasa.gov>
- Summary: Don't believe the hype. Look for the facts.
- Sender: usenet@kronos.arc.nasa.gov (Will Edgington, wedgingt@ptolemy.arc.nasa.gov)
- Nntp-Posting-Host: mccarthy.arc.nasa.gov
- Organization: Recom Technologies, NASA Ames Research Center, Moffett Field, CA
- Distribution: na
- Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1992 23:49:02 GMT
- Lines: 95
-
- At first I was amused by the "Brand X oil is better than Brand Y,
- isn't it?" postings. Now I'm irritated enough to have to post this.
- Apparently a lot of people out there believe the bullshit they see in
- the TV ads.
-
- It's hard to get the facts when comparing brand name oils. About the
- only things you can honestly compare are prices, viscosity grades, and
- API ratings (SG, CC, etc.) -- the latter are all the same anyway. API
- grade SG is the current MINIMUM standard for motor oils. Sadly, there
- are no tougher standards.
-
- You aren't going to see real comparisons between the major brands.
- You will hear people say what brand they think is best, but unless
- they have a dynamometer and an engine shop at their disposal, you
- can't trust their opinions. I doubt that many of us here meet that
- requirement.
-
- So until someone who does can speak up, here's what I can tell you for
- sure about motor oils. Behind each of the facts is a couple of
- fallacies waiting to trip you.
-
- FACT: Synthetic oils really are better than petroleum-based oils.
- They flow better at low temperatures, reduce friction, better protect
- against wear, and withstand heat better because the molecules are
- specifically designed for the application.
-
- FALLACY: You can't run much longer oil change intervals with
- synthetics, because the contamination builds up at the same rate
- regardless of oil type or brand.
-
- MY OPINION: Most anyone who changes their oil every 3K miles or 3
- months tends to get long engine life, whether it's dinosaur oil or
- synthetic. I would say that changing oil frequently is much more
- important than using The Right Brand. If synthetic oil costs 3x what
- dinosaur oil does, and price is an issue for you, change dinosaur oil
- frequently. If you can afford to change synthetics every 3K, do it!
-
-
- FACT: Racing is one place where oil performance makes a difference.
- The right oil makes more power and keeps the engine together longer.
-
- FALLACY #1: Racing conditions aren't even close to what your mother's
- grocery-getter sees; what works on the track won't necessarily work on
- the street. In particular, racers change oil after every event, so
- they don't have to deal with as much contamination as street cars.
-
- FALLACY #2: Race teams have been known to put another brand of oil in
- their sponsor's bottles. I have witnesses.
-
- MY OPINION: Any major brand of synthetic racing oil will work well --
- in a race car. How it works on the street is another question
- entirely. The higher price of synthetic oil is a drop in the bucket
- compared to the other costs in racing, and to its benefits.
-
-
- FACT: There is a right grade of oil for every season and every engine.
-
- FALLACY #1: Many performance buffs think thicker oil is always better.
- They are wrong! There is no reason to use 20W50 racing oil in an
- engine designed for 10W30. The extra viscosity costs you in power,
- economy, and engine life. It's better to go to an equivalent grade
- synthetic oil.
-
- FALLACY #2: There is such a thing as too cool; oil works best when it
- is at least 180 degrees F. Removing the thermostat, or using one
- designed for too low a temperature, prevents the engine from reaching
- the temperatures at which oil works best. This again causes excess
- friction, resulting in poorer power and economy, and more wear.
-
- FALLACY #3: Thicker oil in an older engine is only a band-aid fix to a
- problem that will require major surgery. It restores oil pressure at
- the gauge, but doesn't repair the bigger bearing clearances that
- caused the low pressure in the first place. Use it if you must, but
- don't fool yourself that it's solved the problem.
-
- MY OPINION: Ask your motor builder what grade is right for your
- engine, and what temperature it should operate at. Add an oil cooler
- if it's running too hot. Oil additives like "Motor Honey" are a waste
- of money -- save the cash for a new engine (or car).
-
-
- FACT: There are coatings which will reduce friction and extend
- component life.
-
- FALLACY: These coatings don't come in a can. They have to be applied
- to engine parts before the engine is assembled.
-
- MY OPINION: Racers are taking advantage of coating technology. It's
- just a matter of time til the major car makers get around to it.
-
-
- Hopefully this might clear the air a little bit. Any motor builders
- out there? Let's hear the facts about what brands work best.
-
- -- Chuck Fry Chucko@charon.arc.nasa.gov
-