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- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Path: sparky!uunet!wupost!uwm.edu!news.mr.med.ge.com!eruption!hinz
- From: hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987)
- Subject: Re: Pre-luber summary & Oil Changes
- Message-ID: <1992Sep2.074904.11517@mr.med.ge.com>
- Sender: news@mr.med.ge.com
- Nntp-Posting-Host: eruption
- Organization: GE Medical Systems, Magnetic Resonance
- X-Newsreader: Tin 1.1 PL5
- References: <chris.715353658@speckle>
- Date: Wed, 2 Sep 92 07:49:04 GMT
- Lines: 89
-
- Chris Schanzle (chris@speckle) wrote:
- : In <1992Aug31.065716.27753@mr.med.ge.com> hinz@picard.med.ge.com (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
- :
- : >OK, it's not so much the cooling of the turbo as the lubrication of
- : >the bearings. At full boost, the SAAB turbo (and others, I assume)
- : >is going up to 300,000 RPM(!) If you just stomped it before you park,
- :
- : [ I've always heard numbers in the 100,000 range; who was your src?]
-
- Sorry, I don't memorize my sources. Perhaps it was 100,000 RPM, but
- really, the point is it's going BLOODY FAST.
-
- : >and the thing is spinning away and you take away the lubrication, the
- : >shaft, which rides on a rather thick film of oil, will just sink to
- : >the bottom (with no oil pressure) and start wearing the shaft and
- : >the bearings. The idea behind letting the turbo spool down isn't a
- : >SAAB things specifically, but they are the only ones I've seen who
- : >mention it in the owner's manuals, perhaps because SAAB owners
- : >expect their cars to last forever.
- :
- : People keep saying to let turbo motors run for a while before shutting
- : them off "to let the turbo spin down." It makes no sense and I can't
- : sit back quietly today (I'm in a bad mood :-). Also, I don't know
- : anyone who is a good enough driver to pull into a parking space or
- : parallel park while hitting 10 PSI of boost. Get a grip.
-
- Yeesh. This is the last topic I would expect to see a flame on. First
- (here) you say it's not necessary, later you say that 4 minutes is better.
- Which do you mean?
-
- BTW, some of us DO maneuver in parking lots at 0.8 Bar of boost, thank YOU.
-
- : If you have a turbo, you know by experience that if you are coasting,
- : (minimal airflow and heat to the turbo) then mash the gas, you will
- : definitely have more turbo lag than if you were cruising or even
- : *slightly* accelerating and then mash the gas. On my turbo, if you
- : run at 5 inches of Hg or less (atmospheric pressure), you can actually
- : hear the turbo begin to spool up. It steadies its speed after a
- : second or two. I believe Saabs are VERY quick to spool up, so they
- : should spool sooner.
-
- Depends. The ones which use the Garret (AirResearch) turbo are a bit slower,
- some use a Mitsubishi (yuk) turbo, and spool up quicker. I've got the H2O-
- cooled Garret. Turbo-lag is minimal for the Garret, I haven't driven the Mits
- turbo hard (I don't own one, and don't like stomping other peoples' cars).
-
- : Ok, so now let's try to get a feel for how long it takes for the turbo
- : to spin down after making boost. One way is to accelerate in boost,
- : let off the gas (maybe even upshift), then put your foot to the carpet
- : again. Try to keep the RPM's the same (third or higher gear helps).
- : Change the delay; you should feel more turbo lag the longer the delay,
- : as the turbine slows more. Given the same application, turbo lagp
- : simply depends at what speed the turbo is spinning when you mash the
- : gas.
-
- Could be an interesting experiment.
-
- : Turbo magazine also noted that the highest turbo temperatures are
- : achieved about two minutes *after* shutting off the engine.
- :
- : Bottom line: Logic tells me that letting the engine idle doesn't let
- : the turbine spool down; it already is "idling." Engine idling allows
- : oil (and sometimes water, depending on the turbo) to cool the bearings
- : around the turbine shaft to avoid coking (hardening, solidifying) the
- : engine oil, that will reduce oil flow, and then bye-bye bearings.
-
- OK, so what difference does it make, being good so that it lets the turbo
- spool down, or so that it cools it off better, or both? Who
- really gives a shit? If it's good for it, DO IT. If you're a fool,
- and prefer to rebuild your turbo every 100,000 miles, don't.
-
- : much for an oil change (my cost is 3.5 qts * $3.5 + $3 FRAM filter =
- : $15.25), and I sure wouldn't be getting Mobil 1! And I won't
- : overtighten my drain plug or oil filter, I can crank the motor to get
- : oil pressure back before starting, and so on. Plus, I get warm
- : fuzzies knowing Mobil 1 is protecting my engine. YMMV. :-)
-
- Right on about the Mobil 1, but Fram filters are crap. Cut one open
- some day, and see just how little is in there. A member of the local
- SAAB club bought 5 or 6 different brands of filters, & cut them open.
- The OEM filter (made by MANN of Germany) was by far the best constructed.
- If you're spending 20 bucks on oil, why not pay 5 bucks instead of 3 to get
- a good filter.
-
- --
-
- Dave Hinz - Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's. Obviously.
- SAAB - Because you get what you pay for.
- hinzd@picard.med.ge.com
-