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- From: v087mxgb@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu (Shawn E Thompson)
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Subject: unofficial FAQ-type info on car alarms...
- Message-ID: <BtLH7L.16E@acsu.buffalo.edu>
- Date: 26 Aug 92 15:21:00 GMT
- Sender: nntp@acsu.buffalo.edu
- Organization: University at Buffalo
- Lines: 183
- News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41
- Nntp-Posting-Host: ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
-
-
- Hi all,
-
- a new net-friend asked for some alarm info. I am presently
- installing my fourth alarm, I've done some simple electronic
- design work on an alarm, and I've worked with professionally
- installed alarms. I'm also an Engineer (mostly in the auto
- industry, but presently sidetracked in another field). So,
- I geuss I thought I could share some alarm info I might have.
-
-
- It's not real well organized, just some notes as they came
- to mind. I'm not affiliated with any companies named, I just
- used them as examples.
-
-
-
- ALARM STYLES:
-
- Ignition key - alarm is wired directly to ignition and
- automatically arms and dis-arms via ignition key. A
- delay is employed to allow the driver to get in & out.
-
- PROS: no remote to lose, no code to remember
- CONS: a thief who breaks ignition lock (most
- common method of auto theft) disarms it
-
- Keypad - similar to above but uses a secret id number
- (similar to a bank-card) instead of or in conjunction
- with the ignition key. Also uses delay to allow driver
- to enter and exit.
-
- PROS: no remote to lose, can't be disabled by
- beaking ignition lock
- CONS: code to remember, keypad must be mounted
- somewhere
-
- Remote control - uses a remote, key-chain transmitter
- (similar to a miniature garage door opener) to arm
- and disarm alarm.
-
- PROS: no keypad to mount, no codes to remember,
- cannot be disarmed by breaking ignition
- lock.
-
- CONS: if keychain is lost, car can be found by
- pressing remote.
-
-
- SIRENS:
-
- Electronic - uses digital circuitry to create loud alarm
- sound. Very distinctive auto-alarm sound.
-
- Motor driven - electric motor rotates siren, sounds like
- air-raid siren. Generally more durable, but not
- quite as loud. Usually more expensive.
-
- ACCESSORIES:
-
-
- Shock sensor - device that detects high-impulse vibration
- (hitting car or window) and sets off alarm
- instantly.
-
- Motion detector - device that detects low-frequency vibration
- (towing or jacking) and sets off alarm instantly.
-
- Glass breakage sensor - similar to shock sensor, but uses
- a microphone with a discriminator circuit to
- "hear" frequencies of glass breaking, and sets
- off alarm instantly.
-
- Ignition cut off - disables the starter or ignition (spark
- to spark plugs) while alarm is armed.
-
- Pager - device that beeps a pocket pager when siren is sounded.
-
- Intrusion sensor - ultrasonic detector (similar to automatic
- door openers in department stores) that looks
- for a change in reflected sounds waves. Ideal for
- convertibles since top can be cut or left open.
-
- Voice warning - gimmick that speaks a warning over a loudspeaker
- when alarm is about to go off. Usually says
- something like " you are too close to the car
- please move away".
-
-
- MISCELLANEOUS:
-
- Wheel locks - cost about $10-$12 on sale (worth their weight
- in gold, especially if you have nice wheels).
- Insist on McGard brand (there *is* a difference
- in quality and support).
-
- Hood lock - probably the best device on the market (Chapman
- brand comes to mind). This is a *heavy* duty
- cable that locks the hood *and* disables the
- ignition. Noone can open your hood, and noone
- can hot-wire your car from inside.
-
- Steering wheel locks - "The club", etc - very visible devices
- that lock the steering wheel to the brake
- pedal. Several versions available: some lock
- the brake pedal up, some lock it down, some
- just clamp onto steering wheel to impede
- steering. My thoughts are the kind that lock
- the brakes ON and hold the steering wheel are
- best (they squeeze between the pedal and steering
- wheel) since they inhibit towing also. Be careful
- with a titl-wheel that the steering wheel is
- tilted properly so a thief can't just un-tilt
- the wheel and remove the club.
-
- Locking gas caps - obvious.
-
- High security trunk locks - very popular in NYC. Virtually
- theft-proof replacement lock for trunk lid.
- Mounting plate looks a little goofy though.
-
-
-
- NOTES:
-
- Remote trunk releases are dangerous! Every thief knows what
- cars come with remote trunk releases (and many are in the
- glove box, which doesn't lock). Many people lock valuables
- in their trunk, especially when shopping. Well thieves know
- that and (especially during Christmas shopping season) can
- just break one window, pop open the trunk, grab the goods,
- and be gone in (literally) *seconds*.
-
- Most alarm accessories are ground-switch activated, meaning
- when you ground the instant on trigger input (wire) the alarm
- is tripped instantly. Most accessories are just switches that
- you place between this wire and ground. For example, my alarm
- has an instant on trigger wire that is blue. When this gets
- grounded the alarm sounds for two minutes. I hook the shock
- sensor between this wire and ground. When the car is hit, the
- sensor closes its switch, grounding this blue wire and tripping
- the alarm.
-
- Current sensing alarms trip when a light (dome light, trunk
- light etc) goes on. These have to be isolated from some
- accessory circuits (like electric engine-cooling fans) which
- turn on by themselves.
-
- Hardwired alarms use switches on the doors and trunk to
- ground a wire and set off alarm.
-
- Most alarms are a combination of the above two types.
-
-
- Alarms are *just* noise makers that are intended to draw
- attention and scare off thieves/vandals. A simple alarm
- is as good as a complex alarm. But for real security you
- need a hood lock, wheel locks, gas cap lock, and ignition
- disabler.
-
-
- I reccomend a simple current-sensing remote alarm from
- JC Whitney for as little as $49 ( a little more $ with
- hardwire options if you don't have courtesy lights in
- trunk or hood). These can be as simple as *1* wire to
- connect and doing it yourself can save HUNDREDS of dollars.
- Complex alarms can have 10-12 wires to route and connect
- and, if you're not handy, need a pro to install. Definitely
- get a hood lock, ignition disabler, wheel locks, and gas-cap
- lock (I bought all this for under $100 at my local custom car
- store (wheel locks and locking gas cap) and JC Whitney
- (simple alarm and hood lock).
-
-
-
- Shawn E. Thompson | Project Engineer/Mgr (716)891-3375
- v087mxgb@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu | Leica, Incorporated
- University @ Buffalo | PO Box 123
- Graduate School of Mechanical Engineering | Buffalo, NY 14240-0123
- ------------------------------------------+-----------------------------------
- "Nothin ever grows in this rotten old hole, and everthing is stunted and lost..
- and nothin really rocks n nothin really rolls and nothin's ever worth the cost"
- --- Meatloaf
-