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- .. < chapter xv 27 CHOWDER >
-
- It was quite late in the evening when the
- little Moss came snugly to anchor, and Queequeg and I went ashore; so we
- could attend to no business that day, at least none but a supper and a bed.
- The landlord of the Spouter-Inn had recommended us to his cousin Hosea Hussey
- of the Try Pots, whom he asserted to
- .. <p 64 >
- be the proprietor of one of the best kept hotels in all Nantucket, and
- moreover he had assured us that cousin Hosea, as he called him, was famous for
- his chowders. In short, he plainly hinted that we could not possibly do
- better than try pot-luck at the Try Pots. But the directions he had given us
- about keeping a yellow warehouse on our starboard hand till we opened a white
- church to the larboard, and then keeping that on the larboard hand till we
- made a corner three points to the starboard, and that done, then ask the first
- man we met where the place was: these crooked directions of his very much
- puzzled us at first, especially as, at the outset, Queequeg insisted that the
- yellow warehouse --our first point of departure --must be left on the larboard
-
- hand, whereas I had understood Peter Coffin to say it was on the starboard.
- However, by dint of beating about a little in the dark, and now and then
- knocking up a peaceable inhabitant to inquire the way, we at last came to
- something which there was no mistaking. Two enormous wooden pots painted
- black, and suspended by asses' ears, swung from the cross-trees of an old
- top-mast, planted in front of an old doorway. The horns of the cross-trees
- were sawed off on the other side, so that this old top-mast looked not a
- little like a gallows. Perhaps I was over sensitive to such impressions at
- the time, but I could not help staring at this gallows with a vague
- misgiving. A sort of crick was in my neck as I gazed up to the two remaining
- horns; yes, two of them, one for Queequeg, and one for me. It's ominous,
- thinks I. A Coffin my Innkeeper upon landing in my first whaling port;
- tombstones staring at me in the whalemen's chapel; and here a gallows! and a
- pair of prodigious black pots too! Are these last throwing out oblique hints
- touching tophet? I was called from these reflections by the sight of a
- freckled woman with yellow hair and a yellow gown, standing in the porch of
- the inn, under a dull red lamp swinging there, that looked much like an
- injured eye, and carrying on a brisk scolding with a man in a purple woollen
- shirt. Get along with ye, said she to the man, or I'll be combing ye!
-
- Come on, Queequeg, said I, all right. There's Mrs. Hussey.
- .. <p 65 >
- And so it turned out; Mr. Hosea Hussey being from home, but leaving Mrs.
- Hussey entirely competent to attend to all his affairs. Upon making known our
- desires for a supper and a bed, Mrs. Hussey, postponing further scolding for
- the present, ushered us into a little room, and seating us at a table spread
- with the relics of a recently concluded repast, turned round to us and
- said-- Clam or Cod? What's that about Cods, ma'am? said I, with much
- politeness. Clam or Cod? she repeated. A clam for supper? a cold clam;
- is that what you mean, Mrs. Hussey? says I; but that's a rather cold and
- clammy reception in the winter time, ain't it, Mrs Hussey? But being in a
- great hurry to resume scolding the man in the purple shirt, who was waiting
- for it in the entry, and seeming to hear nothing but the word clam, Mrs.
- Hussey hurried towards an open door leading to the kitchen, and bawling out
-
- clam for two, disappeared. Queequeg, said I, do you think that we can
- make out a supper for us both on one clam? However, a warm savory steam from
- the kitchen served to belie the apparently cheerless prospect before us. But
- when that smoking chowder came in, the mystery was delightfully explained.
- Oh, sweet friends! hearken to me. It was made of small juicy clams, scarcely
- bigger than hazel nuts, mixed with pounded ship biscuit, and salted pork cut
- up into little flakes; the whole enriched with butter, and plentifully
- seasoned with pepper and salt. Our appetites being sharpened by the frosty
- voyage, and in particular, Queequeg seeing his favorite fishing food before
- him, and the chowder being surpassingly excellent, we despatched it with
- great expedition: when leaning back a moment and bethinking me of Mrs.
- Hussey's clam and cod announcement, I thought I would try a little experiment.
-
- Stepping to the kitchen door, I uttered the word cod with great emphasis,
- and resumed my seat. In a few moments the savory steam came forth again, but
- with a different flavor, and in good time a fine cod-chowder was placed
- before us. We resumed business; and while plying our spoons in the
- .. <p 66 >
- bowl, thinks I to myself, I wonder now if this here has any effect on the
- head? What's that stultifying saying about chowder-headed people? But look,
- Queequeg, ain't that a live eel in your bowl? Where's your harpoon?
- Fishiest of all fishy places was the Try Pots, which well deserved its name;
- for the pots there were always boiling chowders. Chowder for breakfast, and
- chowder for dinner, and chowder for supper, till you began to look for
- fish-bones coming through your clothes. The area before the house was paved
- with clam-shells. Mrs. Hussey wore a polished necklace of codfish vertebra;
- and Hosea Hussey had his account books bound in superior old shark-skin.
- There was a fishy flavor to the milk, too, which I could not at all account
- for, till one morning happening to take a stroll along the beach among some
- fishermen's boats, I saw Hosea's brindled cow feeding on fish remnants, and
- marching along the sand with each foot in a cod's decapitated head, looking
- very slip-shod, I assure ye. Supper concluded, we received a lamp, and
- directions from Mrs. Hussey concerning the nearest way to bed; but, as
- Queequeg was about to precede me up the stairs, the lady reached forth her
- arm, and demanded his harpoon; she allowed no harpoon in her chambers. Why
- not? said I; every true whaleman sleeps with his harpoon --but why not?
-
- Because it's dangerous, says she. Ever since young Stiggs coming from that
- unfort'nt v'y'ge of his, when he was gone four years and a half, with only
- three barrels of ile, was found dead in my first floor back, with his
- harpoon in his side; ever since then I allow no boarders to take sich
- dangerous weepons in their rooms at night. So, Mr. Queequeg (for she had
- learned his name), I will just take this here iron, and keep it for you till
- morning. But the chowder; clam or cod to-morrow for breakfast, men? Both,
- says I; and let's have a couple of smoked herring by way of variety.
- .. <p 67 >
-