NetNews Usenet Archive 1993 #3/NN_1993_3.iso/spool/rec/motorcyc/45311

Internet Message Format | 1993-01-27 | 1.8 KB

Path: sparky!uunet!newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!vax5.cit.cornell.edu!iqj
From: [e-mail]
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Removing rear wheel, BMW R100
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Date: 26 Jan 93 22:50:37 EST
Distribution: rec
Organization: Cornell University
Lines: 23

Assuming that the rear wheel removal drill is similar on your
R 100 to that of my R 80, here's the scoop.  First remove the
front wheel...easy, slack off the axle pinch bolts and then the
axle nut and pull the axle.  Now if you tilt the bike gently onto
the fork ends the rear wheel will drop out very easily.  The
problem is that when you rock the bike forward onto the fork ends,
the center stand will collapse and the bike falls over in a heap.
The solution is to make up a little special tool that will fit
between the lower crossmember on the center stand and the frame
cross member just in front of the swing arm pivot to prevent the
collapse.  I used a couple of fish mouthed fittings for scaffolding
tapped to take a 3/8" threaded rod, a couple of nuts to match, a
couple of big flat washers and a length of 1/2" dia. copper tube.
The fish mouth fittings go onto an end of two 4" lengths of threaded
rod as do each of the nuts followed by washers.  These two assemsblies
then go into each end of the tubing.  The fish mouth fittings fit nicely
on the center stand cross member and the frame cross member.  The
big flat washer prevent the rods from being pushed back into the tube.
Use the nuts to adjust the length.  When done, pull the rods out of the
tube and stow neatly in the tool tray under the seat with the inner
tube patching kit.  You *do* have one, right?  Should this description
be insufficient, I will gladly send anyone who requests it a drawing.
Cheers! Chris Finlayson