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- Path: sparky!uunet!srvr1.engin.umich.edu!umich.edu
- From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (Roger Wilfong)
- Newsgroups: rec.models.rockets
- Subject: Re: Igniters
- Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 07:22 edt
- Organization: UofM Hospitals
- Lines: 74
- Distribution: world
- Message-ID: <19930121072253.Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu>
- References: <1jkklvINNf0p@cuda.add.itg.ti.com>
- NNTP-Posting-Host: robin.hosp.med.umich.edu
- X-Newsreader: FTPNuz (DOS) v1.0
-
- In Article <1jkklvINNf0p@cuda.add.itg.ti.com> "barrett@add.itg.ti.com" says:
- >
- > - Copperhead. Aerotech told me you need 12 volts and 2amps. I know
- > from experience that you need to make sure your clips are clean since
- > they require so much current. Larger motors require thermalite
- > "booster" to be attached. Care needs to be taken so that clips do not
- > pierce two sided clad material. Innovative design though.
-
- The ignitor is innovative; however, the clip could stand improvement. It
- looses its grip after a while and needs a clothes-pin helper and it needs
- to be disassembled to clean the contacts thoroughly. Masking tape or
- 'Z' foling and micro clips is a more reliable attachment in my experience.
-
- >
- > - Thermalite. Basic fuse type item that has an internal copper core
- > (like the old jetex fuses), with ~1/16" diam. fuse material. It is
- > wrapped with 5-6 thin strands of nichrome (I think) wire. If you
- > connect your clips to the fuse and send a couple of amps through it it
- > will cause the nichrome to glow and ignite the fuse. Fuse comes in
- > three speed (fast, med, slow). For igniters, most folks put the fuse in
- > a teflon sheath so that it will only ignite the motor (core and slot
- > configrations) at the top (top of fuse is exposed). Basic component for
- > most flashbulb igniters. Is used to "augment" copper head and electric
- > match igniters. Sold by the foot.
-
- Another way to rig thermalite that requires less current is to remove all
- but one of the thin wires on the outside. If you're making a short squib
- like ignitor, wrap wire-wrap wire around the ends like this:
-
- single strand
- /
- +_______+
- =+=======+=
- + + Wire-wrap pigtails
- \ \___________________________
- \__________________________________
-
- For a sheathed ignitor, unwrap all but one strand from an inch or two and
- when wrap these around the thermalite where it enters the tubing. Like this:
-
- unwrapped strands wrapped around thermalite
- / single strand
- Teflon sheath /
- ----------------- +______
- =====================+=======
- ----------------- + ^
- ^ |
- | |
- clips go here
- I have fired thermalite rigged this way using an Estes Solar Launch
- Controller. It took a couple of seconds to light, but it lit. Using a car
- battery, they light as soon as you push the button.
-
- If you are using a car battery, you can put enough current through the
- copper wire in the middle that the pyrogen will almost explode off the wire.
- Rocketflite's early ignitors were nothing more than a piece of thermalite
- that you folded in half and connected to the ends of the copper wire.
- "Bullet" Bob tried this out in his basement and had pieces of burning
- pyrogen flying every whaere.
-
- >
- > - Flashbulbs. Necessary for most clusters and 2nd stage ignition.
- > Low current (<50ma) and voltage. Heat from flashbulb will set off
- > thermalite igniter. Dependable, sensitive to static!!
-
- On word of warning on bulb selection. DO NOT use bulbs from the flash-cubes
- intended for use on the Kodak cameras that use the piezo-effect to fire the
- flash. These bulbs require extremely high voltages to fire. I spent a long
- time on the range one day trying to get a cluster to light with these bulbs
- before I figured out the problem. I can never remember which of the various
- types of flash-cubes to avoid so I buy the 10 bulb flash bars for the
- Poloroid SX-70 type cameras - I know they work.
-
- - Roger
-