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- From: bill@leeweyr.sccsi.com (Bill Lee)
- Subject: Re: Help with release agents needed
- Message-ID: <1993Jan27.032223.11436@leeweyr.sccsi.com>
- Organization: Lee Aerie
- References: <21177@acorn.co.uk>
- Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1993 03:22:23 GMT
- Lines: 84
-
- In article <21177@acorn.co.uk> cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters) writes:
- >
- >Can anyone talk to me about release agents?
- >
- >I have made a polyester mould that came off its wooden plug very
- >easily however I can't seem to stop epoxy mouldings sticking to
- >the polyester mould very badly (I trashed one part of the mould
- >at the first attempt!).
- >
- >I have tried:
- >
- >1/. Bees Wax rubbed on and polished off - six "coats"!
- >
- >2/. A silicon spray used to lubricate windsurfer dagger boards.
- > (Yes I know about painting problems later with silicon).
- >
- >Both looked OK before lay up (nice shine) but in both cases the
- >epoxy stuck to the polyester mould better than it did to the kevlar
- >cloth!
- >
- >When applying wax should it be left to form a kind of solid cost
- >or polished off like on car bodywork? I find most of it seems to
- >comes off as a white powder when I polish it even gently. Should
- >the mould have the shine taken off first before starting with the
- >wax? Mine has a high gloss finish.
- >
- >Ta
- >
- >Colin
- >
- >
- >
- >
- >
- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- >| _ | Email: cwatters@acorn.co.uk (Colin Watters) |
- >| _ \ \ | |
- >| | \______\_\_____ |---------------------------------------------------|
- >| |-________--_____\ | |
- >| / / | Do it by remote control ! |
- >| /_/ | |
- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
- I've done a lot of epoxy moulding (molding?) making propellers for
- my Control Line racing activities. The best release agent for epoxy
- is PVA (Poly vinyl A-something. I've heard Alcohol and Acetate.
- Don't know which. Don't care. It's PVA and you should be able to
- get it where ever you buy the epoxies you are using.)
-
- PVA is a thin, green liquid. It is water soluble but insoluble in
- epoxy. The trick is to put it on over a wax base.
-
- I use Johnson's Paste Wax. You can buy it in almost any grocery
- store. It comes in a yellow can about two inches high and about 4
- inches in diameter.
-
- Make sure your mold is clean. Wash it thoroughly with hot, soapy
- water. Once it's dry, smooth on a thin coat of the Johnson's paste
- wax and let it air dry. DON'T POLISH IT! When it's dry, it will
- leave a slightly dull coating on the mold.
-
- Brush on a coat of PVA. I use a 3/4" modeler's brush. The dull coat
- of wax will grab the PVA and prevent it from fish-eyeing on you.
- (This is probably what happened to you previously: the polished
- surface allowed the surface tension of the release agent pull
- the film apart before it could dry.) If the PVA still trys to
- fish-eye, brush on another thin coat and quickly blow some warm air
- out of a heat gun or hair dryer on the PVA to force-dry it before
- it can contract and break the release film.
-
- This procedure has worked well for me over the years. I've molded
- many props and have never had one stick to the mold. (I've had
- other problems, but not this one!).
-
- Regards,
-
- Bill Lee
-
-
-
-
-
- shold
-