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- Path: sparky!uunet!pipex!doc.ic.ac.uk!agate!ames!decwrl!deccrl!news.crl.dec.com!dbased.nuo.dec.com!nntpd.lkg.dec.com!ryn.mro4.dec.com!priory.enet.dec.com!abbott
- From: abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott)
- Subject: Re: HELP! electrical problem
- Message-ID: <1993Jan28.140955.5021@ryn.mro4.dec.com>
- Sender: news@ryn.mro4.dec.com (USENET News System)
- Organization: TP Performance
- Distribution: misc.consumers.house
- Date: 28 JAN 93 09:08:29
- Lines: 27
-
-
- In article <1993Jan26.213416.29127@sequent.com>, bobk@sequent.com (Bob Krull) writes...
- >In article <1993Jan26.132203.22930@ryn.mro4.dec.com> abbott@priory.enet.dec.com (Robert Abbott) writes:
- >>
- >>I once had a similar problem. Turned out the neutral from the
- >>street (the bare steel cable) was broken. This will lead to
- >>voltage swings and some bizzare dimming of lights.
- >>
- >
- >Neutral from the street!!?? Where do you live that the power company runs
- >a neutral line? The only "bare steel cable" I am familiar with is purely
- >for mechanical strength.
- >
- There are three wires that provide the service to your house. Two
- are insulated and have a potential difference of 220V. These two
- connect to the two hot bars in your fuse box. The third wire,
- the bare steel one, is used for mechanical support but also
- is the neutral. It connects to the neutral bus in your fuse box.
- If you follow this wire back to the pole on the street you will
- find that it is jumpered to a power company line.
-
- Check this out for yourself and report back.
-
- >
- ------------------------
- Robert K. Abbott
- abbott@tps.enet.dec.com
-