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- Newsgroups: alt.surfing
- Path: sparky!uunet!cs.utexas.edu!uwm.edu!linac!unixhub!unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU!leif
- From: leif@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Leif Eric Johnson)
- Subject: Board Snappage!
- Message-ID: <C198EJ.8yG@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: news@unixhub.SLAC.Stanford.EDU
- Organization: Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
- Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1993 12:08:43 GMT
- Lines: 42
-
- Hey all,
- Pretty fair sized swell yesterday and today here (SF peninsula, No. Cal.)
- I'm working mid-shifts now, and slept through it all day yesterday (Wednesday),
- but made it out "today" (Thursday). I'm guessing the swell was a solid 8 feet.
- Alot of local breaks were too out of control, and it was too foggy to see out
- to Mavericks (but I bet it was going of!) A couple of friends wanted to get
- together for a session this morning, and given the size we decided on the
- most protected break around: Linda Mar, "Pathetica" (Pacifica). We went out
- near the south end, Boathouse, where sets were head high and mostly closing
- out. Could see Pedro Point (the outside point south of Linda Mar) was going
- off! Several guys visible ripping it up out there. The two guys I was with
- are less experienced, so the point wasn't even an option, but after a bit we
- decided to walk up to the north end, "Round House". Made it out during a lull
- and caught one hairy right. Only one of the other guys made it out to the
- lineup, and after the right I was unable to punch through the continuous set
- waves that started coming in to make it back out into the lineup. My friend
- kept getting pulled north toward this big jutting rock, and eventually sketched
- a huge one in.
- We noticed a semi-consistant clean right breaking between sets, just north
- of Sewer Pump House, near the middle of the beach. It took some effort to
- stay in the "lineup" for the right, as the sets were breaking a bit more out-
- side, and completely cleaning up the area where the right was breaking between
- sets. I did manage to catch two really nice rights there, lining up perfectly
- and breaking toward a semi-channel. On the second one I was right in the
- opening of the tube for quite a ways. Anyway after paddling out to the lineup
- again, I had to pump to get past a set I saw coming. This one behemoth seemed
- to have a bead on me though, and I ended up in the pit right in front of
- a 10ft monster closeout. The lip was heading right for my back, so I decided
- to bail, shoving my board to the side and diving deep. I actually wasn't
- very surprised when I came up to see no board in sight, but hoped my leash
- had just broken. When a 3 ft section of the tail floated to the surface,
- still attached to my leash, my worst fears were confirmed. I could then see
- the front half of my board bouncing along toward shore in the whitewater.
- The real drag was, that was my newest board, purchased in October ('92) I
- think. A 6'4" Campbell Bonzer design, almost no dings, full front and tail
- astro-deck patches. I'm seriously bummed! So, anyone know if I can at least
- somehow remove and re-use what's left of the astro-deck?
-
- -Leif
-
- Disclaimer: Stanford, SLAC, and the DOE don't even surf! So these opinions
- must be mine.
-