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- Newsgroups: alt.sewing
- Path: sparky!uunet!techbook!carolp
- From: carolp@techbook.com (Carolyn Peterson)
- Subject: Re: HELP-How do I get a pattern to fit correctly?
- Message-ID: <C187CI.183@techbook.com>
- Organization: TECHbooks --- Public Access UNIX --- (503) 220-0636
- References: <ecRK02ms32VH01@JUTS.ccc.amdahl.com>
- Distribution: usa
- Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1993 22:48:14 GMT
- Lines: 60
-
-
- A short fitting course at a local fabric store really helped
- with my fitting problems. (It was the Palmer/Pletsch course
- taught at Fabricland by Marta Alto, if anyone in the Portland,
- Oregon area is interested.) The course included a slide show
- about various pattern alterations. Each woman in the class
- was measured for the correct pattern size, fitted in a shell
- and given a written chart of the shell adjustments required to
- get a good fit for her.
-
- Some of the information from the slide section is in _Painless
- Sewing_ by Pati Palmer & Susan Pletsch. _Painless Sewing_ has
- a couple of nice charts for the comfort ease needed for
- different types of garments and different size ranges and has
- some information about pivot and slide alterations. I like
- the slash type instructions better in _The Perfect Fit_ by
- Singer but my copy doesn't have the comfort ease information
- presented well and doesn't cover pivot and slide at all. The
- _Painless Sewing_ book is a basic sewing book with
- some fitting in it, not a fitting book.
-
- The first thing we found was that everyone had been buying
- patterns at least one size too big, some up to 3 sizes too
- big! To get a good fit in the upper torso area, use a high
- bust measurement not a full bust. The measurements should be
- snug and taking while in under garments. Buying patterns by a
- full bust measurement that was taken comfortably while fully
- dressed can cause you to buy patterns 2 sizes too big to start
- with. Marta had 3 dozen different sizes of fitting shells to
- use as a starting point for adjustments (sizes 6-22 with cup
- sizes A-DD in each size) that were made from the McCalls
- fitting pattern.
-
- Making the adjustments that were indicated by the fitting
- shell for the shoulders, bust and back areas for me have been
- great! I measure the pattern tissue at the waist and hips to
- see if there is enough ease there for me, or if I need to
- alter it--that can go either way in my case, depending on the
- design. I do a quick tissue fit after making the alterations
- and before cutting out the garment. During construction, I
- try it on a few more times. I used to skip these little
- "details" No wonder things didn't fit well on me! I had put
- no effort into making them fit.
-
- Seeing a dozen women being fitted in shells really shows *why*
- the pattern companies can't make patterns that fit everyone.
- I would still like to take a full course in fitting sometime,
- but for now, having a fitting shell done by a professional
- dressmaker and getting a list of the standard adjustments I
- need is great! Sometimes very minor changes need to be made
- during construction, but the adjustments indicated by the
- fitting shell take care of most of my fitting process.
-
- [My only association with Fabricland, Palmer/Pletsch and the
- Singer books is as a paying customer.]
-
- --
- Carolyn Peterson
- carolp@techbook.COM
- (No affiliation with techbooks)
-