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- Newsgroups: rec.photo
- Path: sparky!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!cujo!cc.curtin.edu.au!zrepachol
- From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
- Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
- Message-ID: <1992Dec22.012004.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>
- Lines: 26
- Sender: news@cujo.curtin.edu.au (News Manager)
- Organization: Curtin University of Technology
- References: <1992Dec16.151119.17167@bcrka451.bnr.ca> <2918@tau-ceti.isc-br.com> <BzGrKI.Fxz@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk>
- Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:20:04 GMT
-
- In article <BzGrKI.Fxz@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk>, jack@dcs.glasgow.ac.uk (Jack Campin) writes:
- > jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) wrote:
- >> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
- ...
- > Wouldn't the safest measure be complete disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning
- > in detergent followed by distilled water?
- >
-
- NO. You will have about .5 seconds till the nice clean steel corrodes... And
- never let a US cleaner near an old cemented element unless you WANT to re-
- center it and re cement the elements.
-
- A tip for working on lenses. Go down to your placky model shop and get a supply
- of Humbrol Maskol ( POMEs ) or the Teternal or who ever equivalent. When you
- remove a glass, put a thin coat of it on the lens surface first, let dry, then
- put a short bit of cotton and a second coat. Use different colour for front
- and back! Or use a colour-code scheme or knots to number each lens surface.
- This makes reasembly SO much less worrying, and protects the lens surface.
- The downer, is if the coatings are stuffed, it can clean them right off.
-
- The 'Right Stuff' to use in cleaning is always a bit of a gamble, unless you
- have good tech data on what you are working on. The main thing is to work out
- where you DON'T want the stuff, them act acordingly.
-
- ~Paul
-
-