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- Newsgroups: rec.photo
- Path: sparky!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!cujo!cc.curtin.edu.au!zrepachol
- From: zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au
- Subject: Re: WD-40 Remover?
- Message-ID: <1992Dec22.010358.1@cc.curtin.edu.au>
- Lines: 31
- Sender: news@cujo.curtin.edu.au (News Manager)
- Organization: Curtin University of Technology
- References: <1992Dec16.151119.17167@bcrka451.bnr.ca> <2918@tau-ceti.isc-br.com>
- Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1992 16:03:58 GMT
-
- In article <2918@tau-ceti.isc-br.com>, jimc@tau-ceti.isc-br.com (Jim Cathey) writes:
- > In article <1992Dec16.151119.17167@bcrka451.bnr.ca> poole@bnr.ca (Thomas Poole) writes:
- ...
- > You are going to have to disassemble it pretty thoroughly, use a
- > solvent to get all the crap out of it, and then re-lubricate it.
- > I've done similar cleanups on my Stereo Realist and an old Ikonta
- > camera I bought for $15. I used ether to clean out the gunk,
- > a can of starting fluid from an auto parts store works just fine.
- > Supposedly watch oil is good for oil (I've been using a tube of
- > light machine oil that I've had forever), I don't know what you'd
- > use for grease on a focusing helicoid. I've only used the light
- > machine oil, and haven't touched the greasy areas (with solvent
- > or lube).
- >
-
- You can get watch oils from grade 00 to 5. 4 and 5 are greases, 5 is about
- the consistancy of regect tar!! They are fish oil based or synthetic, and
- won't migrate. This is vital in optical units.
- As to solvent, do you want to die of cancer, or burning. Tri-chlorethylene
- or ether/acetone, take your pick.
-
- > WD-40 et al. are DEATH to fine mechanisms, a lesson I learned when
- > as a kid I used to fix old mechanical calculators for fun.
- >
-
- You aren't wrong there!!
-
- BTW, graphite is the lube to use on most shutter blades and diaphrams, not oil.
-
- ~Paul
-
-