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- Newsgroups: sci.electronics
- Path: sparky!uunet!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!uwm.edu!spool.mu.edu!umn.edu!csus.edu!netcom.com!nagle
- From: nagle@netcom.com (John Nagle)
- Subject: Re: Hot Tub Controller
- Message-ID: <1992Dec18.081530.13580@netcom.com>
- Organization: Netcom - Online Communication Services (408 241-9760 guest)
- References: <1992Dec17.165633.9685@pts1.pts.mot.com>
- Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1992 08:15:30 GMT
- Lines: 31
-
- more_da@pts4.pts.mot.com (Dan Morera) writes:
- >Greetings and Happy Holidays Netters,
- >I am developing a system to remotely control a hot tub, and I have not
- >previously worked with the large AC voltages needed to do so.
-
- Given your discussion, I suggest you get a licensed electrician to
- do the job. You've missed a few key safety issues.
-
- This is NOT to be taken as a complete list, but first, where you
- have water near power, you're usually required to use a GFCI breaker,
- and for a hot tub, you definitely should. Second, you need low-water
- and overtemp detectors for the heater to prevent fire should the water
- stop flowing or be absent. Most hot-tub heaters have these built in,
- but check. Redundant overtemp switches are common, and may be required.
-
- Switches where a wet person can reach them require special handling.
- The usual hot tub switch is an air button, a squeeze bulb connected by
- a tube to a pressure switch. Just putting the controls on the +5 supply isn't
- good enough, because something might short to the low-voltage portion of
- the system. UL-approved switches for very wet locations exist, but
- are expensive.
-
- And remember, plumbing isn't ground in the era of plastic pipe.
-
- Have you figured out how much it will cost to heat a hot tub
- electrically? Most people use gas or solar.
-
- Go with an electrician.
-
- John Nagle
-
-