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- Path: sparky!uunet!caen!rphroy!albert!rhaar
- From: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com (Bob Haar)
- Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
- Subject: Re: Router Table Inquiries
- Message-ID: <93487@rphroy.ph.gmr.com>
- Date: 16 Nov 92 19:16:13 GMT
- References: <WOODWORK%92111612585879@IPFWVM.BITNET>
- Sender: news@rphroy.ph.gmr.com
- Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
- Organization: G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
- Lines: 67
- Nntp-Posting-Host: albert.cs.gmr.com
-
- In article 92111612585879@IPFWVM.BITNET, JMORGAN@BROWNVM.BITNET (Jim Morgan) writes:
- |>>Posted on 16 Nov 1992 at 08:20:30 by Bob Haar
- |>>
- |>>Re: Router Table Inquiries
- |>>
- |>>Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1992 13:12:14 GMT
- |>>Reply-To: rhaar@albert.cs.gmr.com
- |>>From: Bob Haar <rhaar@ALBERT.CS.GMR.COM>
- |>>
- |>>In article 15620@adobe.com, bennett@adobe.com (Bennett Leeds) writes:
- |>>|>Stan Armstrong writes
- |>>|>> If it is ease of cutting mortises you are after, consider one of the
- |>>|>> horizontal router mounting jigs that allow you to mount your router
- |>>|>> at the back of the table with the bit parallel to the top. The
- |>>|>> height of the bit above the table is regulated by swingine the router
- |>>|>> about a pivot. This would let you use your plunge capability and
- |>>|>> thus eliminate the need to pivot the workpiece.
- |>>|>
- |>>|>So, we clamp the wood to the table, plunge the router horizontally,
- |>>|>then unclamp the wood so we can slide it along the vertical fence,
- |>>|>then clamp the wood back down, and then unplunge the router?
- |>>|>
- |>>|>Sounds awkward to me.
- |>>|>
- |>>|>And, if you don't clamp the wood down, you've got to have a hand holding
- |>>|>it while you use the other to plunge the router in.
- |>>|>
- |>>|>Sounds dangerous to me.
- |>>|>
- |>>
- |>>I am not sure about the mortising table design Stan was discussing,
- |>>but I built one from the WoodSMith plans. In this one, you
- |>>don't plunge the router, you move the wood.
- |>>
- |>>The big advantage of this setup is that the work piece is resting flat
- |>>on a table surface. This makes it much easier to control. And you can
- |>>clamp temporary guides pieces to the table to act as stops.
- |>>
- |>
- |>Well, I'll weigh in on Bennett's side here - the horizontal mortising jig
- |>(BTW, Spielman describes one in 'Router Jigs & Techniques') seems dangerous
- |>to me, given that the bit is completely exposed. Also, in feeding the wood
- |>into the bit, you still have the arcing problem I was concerned with in my
- |>earlier post - you need to hold the board against a fence at one end and
- |>pivot it into the bit in order to have any control.
- |>
-
- On my moritising table, the bit is not "completely exposed" - there
- is a transparent safety shield mounted to the vertical back "wall"
- that can be moved up /down to just allow the work piece to enter.
- It is still possible to contact the bit, but you have to work harder.
-
- I don't have any problem with cutting an arc because I don't
- find it necessary to rotate the work piece. I line up the bit with
- the aprroxiamte middle of the mortise and slide the work piece
- straight back against the bit. I then move it left and right to
- cut the full length mortise. If I am mortising the end of a narrow
- piece, I clamp a guid strip to the table and slide the work
- along it.
-
- ---
- Robert Haar InterNet : rhaar@gmr.com
- Computer Science Dept., G.M. Research and Environmental Staff
- DISCLAIMER: Unless indicated otherwise, everything in this note is
- personal opinion, not an official statement of General Motors Corp.
-
-
-