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- Path: sparky!uunet!zaphod.mps.ohio-state.edu!rphroy!cmsa.gmr.com!SDOGGETT
- From: SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com
- Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
- Subject: Re: Valve work techniques
- Message-ID: <168A4CBE2.SDOGGETT@cmsa.gmr.com>
- Date: 19 Nov 92 19:29:47 GMT
- References: <iNceuB1w165w@seanews.akita.com>
- Sender: news@rphroy.ph.gmr.com
- Organization: GM Research Labs
- Lines: 20
- Nntp-Posting-Host: cmsa.gmr.com
-
- >After removing the head cylinder, it has been sugested to me, you
- >can check on the quality of the seal between the valve face and the
- >valve seat by pouring gasoline or some such into the intake or exaust
- >ports on the head. If the gasoline leaks its way around the valves
- >then some work on the valves is required. Is this a valid test?
- > If it turns out that work does need to be done, how far can
- >hand lapping the vavles be taken; when is it neccessary to have
- >a machine shop grind the valves
- >
- Yes, this will work, but you're not considering the whole picture. You also
- have to consider tha condition of the valve guides. On so many engines they
- wear out just as fast as the seats do. Lapping as you are suggesting is for l
- awnmowers. If the seats are worn, have a macine shop grind the valvesand seats
- Do it right. Any decent shop also knows the guides must be in spec before the
- seats can be ground properly. Lapping will cause an uneven seat and or a seat
- that is not flat. Actual contact is critical and your seat ends up too wide.
- You've gone thru the worse part which is taking it all apart, so why skimp now?
- Don't say money either!!! Skimping will cost you more in the long run. Spencer
- Doggett
-
-