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- Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house
- Path: sparky!uunet!news.mentorg.com!mentorg.com!philip
- From: philip@mentorg.com (Philip Peake)
- Subject: Re: How to cut back my heat bill?
- Sender: news@news.mentorg.com (News User)
- Message-ID: <1992Nov24.011209.25836@news.mentorg.com>
- Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1992 01:12:09 GMT
- Distribution: na
- References: <1992Nov20.171452.2840@cbfsb.cb.att.com> <1992Nov20.175535.1694@osf.org> <FSF.92Nov23144756@hpic006.mentorg.com>
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- Organization: Mentor Graphics
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- Lines: 65
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- In article <FSF.92Nov23144756@hpic006.mentorg.com>, fsf@hpic006.mentorg.com (Rick Farnbach) writes:
- |> There's been lots of talk about using resistive heating rather than (or in
- |> addition to) the heat pump when the house is really cold, but I just don't
- |> understand why you'd even want this.
- |>
- |> The efficiency of the heat pump is inversely related to the temperature
- |> differential between the cold source (outside) and the hot source (inside).
- |> Thus, your heat pump will save you the most energy when it is warmer outside,
- |> or when it is cooler inside. When you first turn the heat pump on after the
- |> house has cooled, it should be enormously more efficient at moving heat into
- |> the house than when it is running in temperature maintenance mode. In
- |> temperature maintenance mode it is trying to move heat into a hotter
- |> environment, which is harder to do.
- |>
- |> Why do heat pump manufacturers put in these self defeating thermostats that
- |> turn on resistive heat sources during the interval when the heat pump would be
- |> at its best?
- |>
- |> It seems you really should use the resisistive heating only to get those last
- |> couple of degrees of warmth, not to get the first few. If your heat pump
- |> isn't going to be able to get the job done, it will be at the top end not the
- |> bottom end of the temperature scale that it will need help.
-
- You are (mostly) right.
- The things which are important are:
-
- - As the outside air cools, not only does the efficiency of the
- heat pump decrease, but the heat exchanger ices up, which really
- reduces the efficiency :-)
-
- - Heating contractors are a mean as anyone else, and generaly only
- install the cheapest stuff possible. In the case of the thermostat,
- they install a real cheapo one which has a coiled bi-metal strip, which
- tilts *two* mercury switches. The second switch has a slightly different
- angle, and "comes on" a few degrees later than the first.
-
- Number one controls the heat pump - the idea is that the heating is
- generally on all of the time - when it cools, the heat pump comes on,
- and it will restore the temperature, or, at worst, stabilise it.
-
- If the temperature continues to fall, switch number two goes on,
- and switches on the resistive heating.
-
- I was looking for a programable thermostat to use with my system.
- They just don't seem to exist - well, let me re-phrase that - some
- DO exist, but they are just electronic versions of the system described
- above - you set a "trip" temperature (or several of them) and the heat pump
- goes on at that temperature. At a pre-set number of degrees (3 ?) below that,
- the secondary heating kicks in.
-
- I think that installing one of these would be a complete waste.
- What you win by reducing the temperature at night, you lose when
- daytime comes, and the stupid thing switches on the RESISTIVE heating
- to get you back upto daytime temperature (less three degrees).
-
- It just needs some intelligence appied, both to the design and the
- thermostat !
-
- Switch on ONLY the heat pump, and if the rate of temperature rise
- over X minutes is less than (???), THEN kick in the backup system.
-
- If anyone knows of a reasonably designed item like this - PLEASE let
- me know ... otherwise I may just go into buisness making the things !
-
- Philip
-